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Found 63 results

  1. I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have not found any options available for the new 2018 bikes. I live and work for a new Beta Dealer (Auburn Extreme Powersports) in California, and we are having a difficult time mapping the RR-S bikes for full FMF exhausts. We have tried contacting Beta Support several times for this issue to no avail, and we typically are given the runaround when transferring to techs and secretaries. From what we can gather, the FMF flash is designed for the RR bikes, but not the street-legal counterparts. Every time we try to install the FMF map onto an RR-S errors occur, and the programmer screen goes virtually blank. We have heard through the grapevine that some are using the RR maps on the RR-S with success, but we have yet to try it, even on our own bikes for fear that it will permanently erase or damage the CDI. Any and all help or suggestions regarding this topic would surely be appreciated! Thanks, Ben.
  2. Hello, this past weekend was overly frustrating for me and a few friends. We planned weeks ahead to get away for the weekend, leaving the even more frustrated wife and kids, traveling a few hours south to ride at Burning Rock Outdoor Adventure Park in WV. Cabins rented, tanks filled, bikes in tow. We made it 15 miles from camp the first morning only to have my rather new (250 miles, 16 hours) 2016 250xc-w stop dead. Initial thought was a plug, which when changed it hit just for a second then shut off again DEAD. Put a third plug in and towed it down the trail in third gear for a 1/2 mile... NOTHING DEAD. Finally pulled the plug and realized it wasn't sparking at all. We switched the CDI box, voltage reg, and coil packs between mine and my friends 2014 on the trail to no avail. We also checked the kill switch. Fast forward to today and I have pulled the side case to inspect the stator. You can see in the picture the bottom black winding, which by the manual looks to be the charging coil of the ignition is bubbled (not sure if that's normal). The maintenance book I have states at 68 degree, which my garage is maybe 75, the resistance should be 12-16.6 ohms. You can see right at the coil itself I'm getting around 9.7, and if measured at the bus connecter as the manual says, it reads about 10.1. All the other values for the coil pack and stator are perfectly within spec, and nothing is shorted to ground. I'm the original owner of the bike and haven't done anything but change the oil and clean the air filter. After all that my question is are those roughly 2 ohms enough to prevent the plug from sparking??? Alternator specs Lighting winding .1 ohms Battery winding .7 ohms Stator spec Pulse generator 100.1 ohms Coil pack Primary winding .3 secondary 6K ohms On a side note, I highly recommend the trails (what I saw) and the employees of Burning Rock. One of the maintenance guys rode 30 minutes with my friends, around the mountain, in the truck, to lead them to me... Super friendly folks. https://burningrockwv.com/
  3. Hi guys, Was happily riding my DRZ400SM the other day (06) and all was fine until I arrived at my destination and noticed the HUD flickering and resetting. Shut the power off and turned the key and got nothing.... No lights or anything. Assumed it was an issue with the charging system so got my buddies to bump start me, the bike ran fine but got nothing on the HUD at all and the lights were very dim but, strangely, got brighter when I applied the brakes (That was a fun ride home at 11:30PM, 60 mile journey in the dark and hoping to god I don't stall). Got home, tested the battery and it's hitting 13v so it's fine... Checked the ignition, unplugged and tried resistance across the terminals... Not getting anything. I also noticed a wire that was just broken in the loom, not sure if this is relevant to anything as I can't see how it would have broken randomly but, still it must be something! Anyhow, this seems to me like the Ignition is at fault, any further checks recommended to rule anything else out? As the battery is 13v I can't see it being anything in the charging system and the main fuse was fine. Cheers all! Matty.
  4. I have a 2014 450 XC-W. I'm adding high/low beam, signals, horn, etc. I'm aware of the Sicass kit options but I chose to order OE KTM EXC harness components. I ordered the lighting and turn signal harness for a 2014 EXC (77711079000 and 77711081000) and decided for the time being not to install a keyed ignition switch. Instead, I ordered the key switch eliminator jumper (781119990000). I also got the Euro headlight and flasher switch (78111070000 & 78111029000). In looking at the parts breakdown, the XC-W and the EXC have the same "main" harness (7811075133). I'm in the process of installing the EXC harnesses and most of it is falling into place. Except for one thing; on the EXC, the key switch eliminator jumper simply replaces a jumper that's already in the harness. You simply unplug the ignition switch, install the key switch eliminator jumper in place of the stock jumper and you're good to go. Here's the thing; I don't have the "stock" jumper anywhere in my harness nor do I see the four pin connector where the EXC keyed ignition switch would plug into. Again, I realize my bike is an XC-W and the ignition switch wiring was not stock on this bike, but I have installed the lighting and flasher harness for the EXC. All other harness part numbers I can find are common between the XC-W and the EXC. I can't find a single harness part number that differs between the EXC and my XC-W (now that I've installed the two EXC harnesses). I can only assume the stock jumper and the four-pin ignition switch connector are part of an EXC specific harness, but I'm stumped as to which harness that could be. Again, I don't see any harness part number variation between the XC-W and EXC models. Thoughts?
  5. I have an 03 drz that will not start, I've checked fuel, compression, and now I'm chasing spark I got a manual and started doing some electrical ohm tests. stator, rectifier, and coil. The only one that didnt match the specs in the manual was the coil. I have two coils for this bike and have tried them both in the bike. They both make spark when they're out of the bike and grounded to the frame. however neither of the coils meet the spec for the secondary coil ohms. The spec is like 13k to 20k ohms one coil gets like 2,500 ohms and the other gets like 5,000 ohms on the secondary Are both coils bad? and.. Is it possible that I'm not getting spark in the cylinder?
  6. Does anyone know how to replace the “Charging Coil 1” on a 2007 yz250f? When using the multimeter, I received the following readings: Ignition Coil Primary coil resistance: initially .8 but settles at .3 - .5 - spec: .08 - .10 Secondary coil resistance: 5.7 - spec: 4.6 - 6.8 CDI Mageto Pickup coil resistance: 293 - spec: 248 - 372 Charging coil 1: no reading on multimeter - spec: 720 - 1,080 Charging coil 2: 52 - spec 44 - 66 Both the stop and neutral switches checked out last time I tested, but that was months ago. Spark plug was good, but I replaced it, anyway. The bike ran perfect last year and randomly wouldn’t give any feedback when kickstarting (no start button) after riding the prior day (last summer). It has been sitting ever since. Would you say the charging coil 1 is the issue here? I am trying to eliminate shop fees, so I would like to replace a small part rather than the whole stator/CDI unit if it is even possible. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
  7. Hello everyone! I have a 1978 ke175 with no spark.. i believe it’s the ignition coil but I can’t find any replacement part. If y’all can find a link or a website to which I can get one I would appreciate it a lot. I’ve been looking for a month and can’t seem to find anything.
  8. Recently did a top end rebuild on my 2008 WR450, took her for a short test ride no problem, sounds good felt great, took her for a longer rider and about 10mins in suddenly souldnt rev past approx. 4000 (red light coming up on dash). Babied her home but I am stumped. Timing is good, TPS is within spec. The only thing I can think of is the flywheel/magneto rotor was stuck on tight and to get it off to replace the timing chain required some heat, yes used the correct tool. What im currently thinking is that the heat caused the flywheel/magneto rotor to lose magnetism preventing the CDI from seeing where the crank is located. She starts and runs fine at idle/low rpm. Has anyone had a similar issue or can provide a solution?
  9. I just bought a new OEM ignition coil for my 1972 Honda xl250. It's near-identical except the secondary wire is way longer on the new one compared to the original coil. Is there any reason to shorten this, or can I just loosely wrap up the excess wire? Thanks.
  10. So I got a 1973 Kawasaki F7 and it came with no spark and we did some testing and found out the stator is bad. I was gonna try rewinding but decided it would probably take a long time and then end up not working. It took awhile but we finally found a stator for a good price. We put it on and we got spark. A couple days later I hooked a little gas tank up to the carb and it started right up no problems. We saw that the fuel filter was messed up so we decided to put our own on there. It didn’t start. We did some messing around and decided to take the carb apart to see what was going on in there. It was in rough shape and I’m surprised it ran in the first place. Found a carburetor rebuild kit for a similar carb to ours and everything happened to fit perfectly on our carb. The bike was running again. It did have some flooding problems. I adjusted the float and it seemed to fix the problems so when I got it running I left it alone. The next time I tried messing with it I couldn’t get it started. There is a black (I think it has a white strip) (I think its a ground wire) wire that is hanging off the ignition or something (I can’t tell) and it would spark on some metal it was touching in sync with the engine noise. Once I saw it stop sparking and then the engine died. We couldn’t get it running and we were messing with the wire and it seemed to help the bike start up whenever the wire would spark. We hooked It up to the kill switch and it ran so I turned the kill switch to the off position and the bike shut off. The other day I was messing with it and the bike would start but immediately die and backfire (this bike is a two stroke so I thought the backfiring was interesting) I tried messing with the bike today and it didn’t even try start. Does any of this sound like carb problems? Or is it ignition problems. It seems like ignition problems to me but I’m not an expert. The carb still floods too but I think I know why. Thank you and I hope that wasn’t too confusing to read. Let me know if it is and I’ll try to explain better. now that I’m thinking about it, the spark plugs threads are pretty worn out and that could be causing compression issues
  11. Bought a 1984 Honda CR500 and it starts up sometimes. Brand new top-end, cylinder bored out, new piston and rings brand new ignition coil, brand new spark plug brand new spark plug cap, cleaned out the carburetor 3 times, new air filter... It fires up only once in awhile probably like every 30 kicks and when I ride it around it's fast and pulls but sometimes bogs. What's wrong with my CR ?
  12. We spent weeks trying to determine why our 2001 520EXC wouldn't start after we did the top end and replaced the OEM stator with an upgraded TrailTech 100W (need to run headlight and a fan once it's dualsported). HISTORY: Before I tore it down, the bike ran almost perfectly, though the starter was hit-or-miss. I mostly used it as a kick-assist, because even jetted properly, it was tough to kick. However, I essentially rescued this bike from the desert in Saudi Arabia and it was almost completely destroyed electrically with some truly shameful bodge jobs. I replaced literally every electrical component but the pickup and rotor and had it running well, but was nervous because the outside was in such a frightful state, I couldn't imagine it was internally sound. If nothing else, I wanted to make sure the infamous deco lever stop bolt was addressed. Sure enough, all was well inside, with the exception of worn timing chain guides. Truly a testament to the legendary RFS! Once buttoned up, we found that with a sharp kick, it started first or second kick almost every time, though it was still a bit more difficult than it should have been. However, I could lay on the starter for 10 or 15 seconds and it would cough once or twice but never catch. Hot or cold, it didn't matter. I swapped plugs, compared sparks, checked coils and wires, dropped in an enormous 300CCA AntiGravity lithium battery, tested voltage drop at the starter, scrubbed grounds, inspected starter sprag, cleaned and wondered at the carburetor jetting, pondered whether I'd improperly assembled the auto decompression lever, pondered a busted woodruff key, second and third-guessed the timing, and generally went insane. Nothing was wrong. Absolutely maddening. After exhausting all the other intelligent options, I arrived at the solution by pure, dumb luck...or the longest, most methodical troubleshooting I've ever done. You be the judge. I only noticed the problem when we opened the ignition cover again because I was going to replace the new TT stator with the original. The air gap for the pickup (pulse generator) off the rotor's reluctor bar (I think that's the right name for the raised section) was at least 2mm or so. I was staring at the manual a couple nights before and a note about a 0.75mm gap stood out--primarily because that doesn't seem to be an adjustable component. I've never adjusted pickup gap ever, though I'm primarily a 2-stroke guy. Probably should have remembered from the stories about how sensitive some of the old points ignitions were to air gap. Using my 0.76mm feeler gauge, I bent the pickup bracket inward until I had drag on the gauge. Buttoned it up, and the bike started absolutely effortlessly on choke in a 45F (7C) garage. Zero hesitation, first poke. Starts first try every time now. Can't wait to get it out and thrash it a bit to see how it feels! This was literally a 5-minute fix, requiring nothing but an 8mm socket, feeler gauges, strong thumbs, and maybe a stator cover gasket. How frustratingly simple for a problem that took weeks to find!
  13. Hello there, im having a very interesting issue with my rebuilt 2001 honda cr250r. I got the bike in a box in peices 5 months ago and rebuilt the motor since 5th gear lost a tooth from the previous owner. Motor was properly rebuilt using two different manuals and making sure everything was in its correct place and orientation. New pro x piston and hotrods crank. The issue I'm having is after getting everything back together in the bike and trying to start it up, the bike will not idle or run below around 1500rpm. I can fully rev the bike out and get a lot of power from the midrange and top end, but if I let off the gas and get into the lower rpms it dies out quickly and can't catch the rpms from falling. Now, after messing with the air screw, timing, and stator assembly I figured out that with having barely any air gap (pretty much touching) between the flywheel and pick up coil the bike runs as described above. But when I set the air gap to the recommended 0.18mm air gap the bike will be able to idle for a few seconds and probably can be adjusted to idle fine, but anything after 1500 rpms it just dies out and will not Rev out. Seems like either no air gap and the bike will be able to run fine but no idle or low end, or if at recommended air gap the bike will be OK in the low end and idle but absolutely no mid to top end. I'm confused and stumped with this. I've been working on dirtbikes full time for over 5 years and this is a dewsey. I have a brand new genuine pwk38 air striker carb, new v force 3 reeds, new stator, spark plug, silencer, air filter. I'm at sea level running a 45 pilot and 175 main on clip #3. I will be trying a smaller pilot soon to see if that fixes the idle/ low end problem. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice on this problem 🤙🏻.
  14. so acquired a 2001 crf250 with everything but a bottom end. I was able to buy a 1999 motor for 500$ but got no spark and came to realize there was an extra plug. so I did some research and found out the cdi for a 99 with two plugs is different than the cdi for an 01 with just one. so is there a way to use the 99 ignition and harness with the 2001 cdi? it's around 800 dollars for the 2001 ignition which kinda sucks. or 200 for the cdi from a 99
  15. Maybe someone can help me out. My 19’ KX250 is bogging real bad to the point it will cut off when I’m riding anywhere from 1/2 throttle to wide open. Starts up fine and idles no problem. I just had the valves adjusted and are within spec, I checked the stator with a multimeter and checks out good, tps is good, ignition coil is good, new spark plug with proper gap, did the 9V battery trick to clean the injectors and just put a new fuel pump and filter in the tank. Also fresh clean gas from when I did the pump, plus a fresh clean air filter. Can’t figure out why it keeps dying out. It’s gotta be fuel/air related because when I pulled the plug out it’s extremely lean... any ideas guys?? Thanks.
  16. Hi guys I took of my stator cover and starter. i Put everything back together in correct order but no spark dont know if there are any wires that could have pulled out or disconected Please if any body has an idea or know of anything i can look at it would be much appreciated.. Kind Regards. Clueless
  17. Hello everyone, I’m in need of some help with this one. About a month ago my 2001 YZ125 was running fine until all of a sudden after running WOT for a little bit i let off the throttle and the bike instantly died. I checked the bike out after I got home, and sure enough no spark. I changed the plug thinking that was a possible problem but it didn’t fix anything. Tested the ignition coil and thought that might be the issue so I got an oem replacement, and it ran again for about a minute, but when I gave it a little throttle it died again and then I was back to no spark. So I put the old coil back on and cleaned the ground points real good. Cranked it over, started and then again i gave it some throttle and it died again. I also noticed that when I kick it over the starter likes to slam back into position which it never did before, and there is excessive amounts of smoke coming out of the exaughst when it does. Today I replaced the ignition switch because I thought that it may have gotten screwed up earlier from when I dumped the bike, but it made no difference. Im totally lost on what it could be, maybe cdi? I don’t know what the symptoms of a bad cdi are, so I can’t tell. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated, thank you in advance!
  18. Hello, just had quite a day trying to get new and properly working ignition coil assembly for my bike (2005 Yamaha WR250F) and I'm left with a few questions that oracles from mount Google are not in the mood on answering. TL;DR; Just skip to questions section 😉 Situation through almost all year of owning this bike I've had varying random misbehavings in a such a way, that it would randomly stall and sometimes it would start up just right away (1-2 cranks of e-start or a few kicks with kick-starter), but sometimes it would turn into fitness machine (10-20 kicks to start or a lot of pushing and trying to bump starting it). In this period managed, to reassemble, clean and/or change a lot mechanical parts and only with the help of a brave guy (who took an "extra mile", when he was about to give up, because the best it could fix it up, to a point where it would start cold and when it worked a little bit, then it would randomly die) from a local small dirtbike/motorcycle garage we've narrowed it down to faulty ignition coil assembly. From his friend (who owns something like 2008+ Yamaha WR450F) he borrowed working ignition coil assembly, switched it with the one that was used at the time on my bike (2005 Yamaha WR250F) and my bike started to work like a clockwork 🙂 Since this problem was driving me crazy, I've decided to opt for OEM ignition coil assembly (and in all honesty there are not a lot replacement/aftermarket options for this part in my part of world ), but the best my garage guy could offer was shipment from Yamaha international stock (something like 2-3 weeks estimated delivery time), so I've had a one day to search for options/alternatives. In the end I've contacted local official Yamaha motors dealers and he was able to get the needed part fast. During my search and inquiries to some local dirtbike groups on the internet I was offered ignition coil assemblies that looked almost identical that was needed for my bike, but were from a similar (the same manufacturer [Yamaha], the displacement [250cc], the same combustion cycle type [in this case: 4 stroke] and yet were meant for different models. Questions 1 . Apart from the different part number and fitment for different displacement models, what is the difference between these parts: https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5TA-82310-10-00 (WR450F - the one that was used by my garage to find that my current ignition coil assembly is faulty) https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5UL-82310-10-00 (WR250F - factory original) https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/8ES-82310-00-00 (WR250R - the one that I was being offered by a guy from local dirtbike club - he though that it should work, but I see that his bike uses a bit colder [9 instead of 8 measuring in NGK heat range] but very similar [gap, threads and etc] spark plug). 2 . Would using 450F ignition coil assembly on 250F would have any longer term effect on engine reliability, performance or etc ? 3 . Are there any websites on the web that have more detailed technical specs (like resistance, voltage, power or etc) on the above mentioned parts ? Thanks in advance.
  19. Hey guys and gals, I've been trying to pin down a problem for a few weeks now with no success. I've read countless forum posts to no avail so here I am. This post will be a bit long but I want to provide as much info as possible as this has me stumped. I have a 2005 DRZ400e. Mostly stock besides the 'free power' mod and the previous owner opening up the airbox and drilling some holes in the stock exhaust to open it up (and make it way too loud). When I bought this bike last year it ran flawlessly. The day after I bought it I left on a two week adventure through far north Australia. Unfortunately the stator was toast, but I luckily had a starter pack that got me through the trip. Other than that it was mechanically solid. After arriving home I let it sit for a few weeks and after that the damn thing just wouldn't start. I got the stator professionally rewound and had them check compression for me. Low and behold the compression was terrible, so I pulled the top end apart and found that the piston rings were absolutely embedded in their grooves. I assume this could be the result of overheating, as without a working stator I was leaving the bike running as much possible. It took a lot of persuading and hot water to get them unstuck before replacing them, but the piston and cylinder looked absolutely fine. So after this the bike started up straight away but wasn't holding idle. Knowing that I'd need to clean the carb I decided to purchase a carb rebuild kit along with a JD Jetting kit. Unfortunately my compressor has broken, but I was as through as possible trying to clean out all the circuits and replacing the clogged jets with the new ones in the kit as well as replacing all the O-rings and gaskets. Currently my carb settings are as follows: Float hight 9mm Main Jet 155 (142 is stock) Pilot jet 45 (stock) Pilot air jet 60 (stock) Mixture screw at 2.5 turns And I'm using the JD blue needle on the 4th notch as suggested by the instructions. Now after doing all of this the bike starts up perfectly and runs great at low speed but has a very weird problem. When I accelerate in any gear through around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the bike falls flat on its face. It doesn't backfire, but it feels like it is starved for fuel and misses considerably until it gets to a higher Rpm and then it takes off like a rocket again. Never experienced anything like it before and the bike is unfortunately unridable because of it. Here is a list of things that I have tested: Petcock flows fuel fine Replaced fuel with a fresh tank Checked for air leaks - no change Rode with choke on - no change/ worse Rode with airbox cover off - no change Disconnected RR - no change Disconnected TPS - no change I'm really running out of ideas here. I need to test if putting the original needle back in changes anything, but that will probably have to wait until next week. A few other notes: My battery is pretty much shot. It has enough juice to start the bike a few times but that's it. Is it possible for a dodgy battery to cause these sort of problems? I was under the impression that the bike gets its juice from the stator once running. The mixture screw does not seem to do a whole lot. The bike will idle with the mixture screw all the way in, and will still idle with it out 3 turns. This doesn't seem right. I have an extended mixture screw on the way so that I can test it a bit easier. I would appreciate any input as I am grasping at straws here. Thanks in advance, Jet
  20. Hi Guys, My SEM coil has failed, and they are very hard to find, and very expensive! does anyone have any suggestions of alternatives? Could i fit a non charging stator as this would be a cheap fix. Any suggestions welcome.
  21. I have a 2001 kx100 and i think it has a weak spark. i took the carb off and sprayed starter fluid in the intake and when i kicked it it did nothing. i know its sparking though. i took the plug out and looked at it while i kicked it. it looks like a white spark. i tried a new plug and a new ignition coil. didnt help. my stator resistance and crank sensor resistance are in spec. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
  22. Good evening tt! New guy here! I have an 01 yz125 i fully restored and rebuilt from ground up. However i am now hitting an issue with the bike where it is breaking up half throttle, seemingly right before powerband. This occurs on or of choke too.The bike is all stock aside from New top end and bottom end and seals, which are all stock spec. My carburetor and jetting all checks out. My reeds are good. It has a brand new plug and new fuel. The bike has been set up like this for almost 2 years and has been running great until last week. Im thinking it may be ignition related but would appreciate any second opinions. Thank you!
  23. Hi all, Picked up an `84 CR500R last week and have been chasing a very weak and sometimes intermittent spark. I've gotten the bike started a few times but pulling the plug out I usually get no spark or sometimes very low spark. Haven't been able to start it since the first day I had it.This is where i am at now: 1. I tested the resistance in the ignition coil and got .5 ohm in the primary coil and 9.87K ohm in the secondary with the cap. The secondary coil without the plug cap gave me a resistance of ~4.5K ohm. I don't have a manual so I don't know if this is in spec or not. 2. I tested the stator and the pulse generator resistances coming from the engine and they were both in spec according to this thread where the one guy mentioned them. 3. cleaned the ground wire going to the ICM and the coil. 4. tested the kill switch and it is fine. (even tried getting spark with switch disconnected) As it stands right now I have less spark than when I started and am trying to determine what I need to replace or clean. If anyone knows how to test the ICM to see if it is bad That would rule out a major expense for me. Other things I have thought about are trying to clean the stator (the housing looks pretty clean though) and replacing the ignition coil (just ordered a new one since they are relatively cheep). This link gives specks for the '85 ignition coil but mine is still outside of that range so I'm hoping that is the problem. Any help would be appreciated! Im very excited to get this bike up and running well.
  24. I have an '86 CR500R with what appears to be a 2-piece split alternator winding. I'm evaluating the possibility of adding a small light to the existing system, or possibly modify the system to be able to. I need answers to the following questions: - What is the stock Power (Wattage) rating on each of these two coils? - Which coil is used for spark? Which is for the ignition module control power? - What is the operating voltage? Does it vary? Does the module have a built in voltage regulator? - Does anybody have a circuit diagram of the stock ignition module's internal circuitry? - How many wraps of wire are on these two windings?
  25. Hi, I’ve been trawling through various forums and Facebook trying to find out what my problem could be. I was hoping some previous threads were going to give me a solution, but no fix yet. Brothers bike won’t start. It will spark every 5-10 kicks. If I kick slowly right on the top of compression It does go. But when kicking repeatedly it doesn’t work. (With and without 12V external supply) We have a second bike at a neighbour which we tried components swapped over. All fine. Tried in the dealer power supply and LED FI and showed no faults - confirmed by trying off various sensors to force a fault. Loop tested each circuit at sensor. And then though wiring loom to ecu. Resistance and Continuity ok. Followed manual for min peak volts from ckp and rotation sense with a made up peak voltage sensor. Ok. Just. It’s charging 12v ok and capacitor ok. Confirmed in bike and bench tested charge and discharge time. Ecu swapped- no difference. TOS/Kill ok. Wiring loom removed and checked over line by line and continuity checked. Ill attach photos of inside of stator/rotor. I think that the CKP/Stator set up has something wrong with it. I think stator ok, but the rotation sense/CKP pick up not working. Im not sure what the start permissives would be on the bike, but I think I’ve covered them all. I’m not sure how the ECU works either....does it look for rotation to start fuel injection for example or does it look for rotation and CKP before ignition. I did notice some slight scoring on the inside of the casing. The stator went away for testing which goes against me think that it’s the CKP/Stator assembly. I thought perhaps rotor, but it’s a nice strong magnet. Hoping to swap stator and see how we get on. TIA for any thoughts on this.
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