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Found 40 results

  1. Hi guys, Was happily riding my DRZ400SM the other day (06) and all was fine until I arrived at my destination and noticed the HUD flickering and resetting. Shut the power off and turned the key and got nothing.... No lights or anything. Assumed it was an issue with the charging system so got my buddies to bump start me, the bike ran fine but got nothing on the HUD at all and the lights were very dim but, strangely, got brighter when I applied the brakes (That was a fun ride home at 11:30PM, 60 mile journey in the dark and hoping to god I don't stall). Got home, tested the battery and it's hitting 13v so it's fine... Checked the ignition, unplugged and tried resistance across the terminals... Not getting anything. I also noticed a wire that was just broken in the loom, not sure if this is relevant to anything as I can't see how it would have broken randomly but, still it must be something! Anyhow, this seems to me like the Ignition is at fault, any further checks recommended to rule anything else out? As the battery is 13v I can't see it being anything in the charging system and the main fuse was fine. Cheers all! Matty.
  2. I have a 2014 450 XC-W. I'm adding high/low beam, signals, horn, etc. I'm aware of the Sicass kit options but I chose to order OE KTM EXC harness components. I ordered the lighting and turn signal harness for a 2014 EXC (77711079000 and 77711081000) and decided for the time being not to install a keyed ignition switch. Instead, I ordered the key switch eliminator jumper (781119990000). I also got the Euro headlight and flasher switch (78111070000 & 78111029000). In looking at the parts breakdown, the XC-W and the EXC have the same "main" harness (7811075133). I'm in the process of installing the EXC harnesses and most of it is falling into place. Except for one thing; on the EXC, the key switch eliminator jumper simply replaces a jumper that's already in the harness. You simply unplug the ignition switch, install the key switch eliminator jumper in place of the stock jumper and you're good to go. Here's the thing; I don't have the "stock" jumper anywhere in my harness nor do I see the four pin connector where the EXC keyed ignition switch would plug into. Again, I realize my bike is an XC-W and the ignition switch wiring was not stock on this bike, but I have installed the lighting and flasher harness for the EXC. All other harness part numbers I can find are common between the XC-W and the EXC. I can't find a single harness part number that differs between the EXC and my XC-W (now that I've installed the two EXC harnesses). I can only assume the stock jumper and the four-pin ignition switch connector are part of an EXC specific harness, but I'm stumped as to which harness that could be. Again, I don't see any harness part number variation between the XC-W and EXC models. Thoughts?
  3. Nathan Anderson

    2016 250 XC-W No Ignition Spark

    Hello, this past weekend was overly frustrating for me and a few friends. We planned weeks ahead to get away for the weekend, leaving the even more frustrated wife and kids, traveling a few hours south to ride at Burning Rock Outdoor Adventure Park in WV. Cabins rented, tanks filled, bikes in tow. We made it 15 miles from camp the first morning only to have my rather new (250 miles, 16 hours) 2016 250xc-w stop dead. Initial thought was a plug, which when changed it hit just for a second then shut off again DEAD. Put a third plug in and towed it down the trail in third gear for a 1/2 mile... NOTHING DEAD. Finally pulled the plug and realized it wasn't sparking at all. We switched the CDI box, voltage reg, and coil packs between mine and my friends 2014 on the trail to no avail. We also checked the kill switch. Fast forward to today and I have pulled the side case to inspect the stator. You can see in the picture the bottom black winding, which by the manual looks to be the charging coil of the ignition is bubbled (not sure if that's normal). The maintenance book I have states at 68 degree, which my garage is maybe 75, the resistance should be 12-16.6 ohms. You can see right at the coil itself I'm getting around 9.7, and if measured at the bus connecter as the manual says, it reads about 10.1. All the other values for the coil pack and stator are perfectly within spec, and nothing is shorted to ground. I'm the original owner of the bike and haven't done anything but change the oil and clean the air filter. After all that my question is are those roughly 2 ohms enough to prevent the plug from sparking??? Alternator specs Lighting winding .1 ohms Battery winding .7 ohms Stator spec Pulse generator 100.1 ohms Coil pack Primary winding .3 secondary 6K ohms On a side note, I highly recommend the trails (what I saw) and the employees of Burning Rock. One of the maintenance guys rode 30 minutes with my friends, around the mountain, in the truck, to lead them to me... Super friendly folks. https://burningrockwv.com/
  4. I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have not found any options available for the new 2018 bikes. I live and work for a new Beta Dealer (Auburn Extreme Powersports) in California, and we are having a difficult time mapping the RR-S bikes for full FMF exhausts. We have tried contacting Beta Support several times for this issue to no avail, and we typically are given the runaround when transferring to techs and secretaries. From what we can gather, the FMF flash is designed for the RR bikes, but not the street-legal counterparts. Every time we try to install the FMF map onto an RR-S errors occur, and the programmer screen goes virtually blank. We have heard through the grapevine that some are using the RR maps on the RR-S with success, but we have yet to try it, even on our own bikes for fear that it will permanently erase or damage the CDI. Any and all help or suggestions regarding this topic would surely be appreciated! Thanks, Ben.
  5. Nick Sebasovich

    DRZ ignition coil

    I have an 03 drz that will not start, I've checked fuel, compression, and now I'm chasing spark I got a manual and started doing some electrical ohm tests. stator, rectifier, and coil. The only one that didnt match the specs in the manual was the coil. I have two coils for this bike and have tried them both in the bike. They both make spark when they're out of the bike and grounded to the frame. however neither of the coils meet the spec for the secondary coil ohms. The spec is like 13k to 20k ohms one coil gets like 2,500 ohms and the other gets like 5,000 ohms on the secondary Are both coils bad? and.. Is it possible that I'm not getting spark in the cylinder?
  6. Good evening tt! New guy here! I have an 01 yz125 i fully restored and rebuilt from ground up. However i am now hitting an issue with the bike where it is breaking up half throttle, seemingly right before powerband. This occurs on or of choke too.The bike is all stock aside from New top end and bottom end and seals, which are all stock spec. My carburetor and jetting all checks out. My reeds are good. It has a brand new plug and new fuel. The bike has been set up like this for almost 2 years and has been running great until last week. Im thinking it may be ignition related but would appreciate any second opinions. Thank you!
  7. OffRoadEmpire

    sparkissue Ktm 300 2012 no spark

    Hi guys I took of my stator cover and starter. i Put everything back together in correct order but no spark dont know if there are any wires that could have pulled out or disconected Please if any body has an idea or know of anything i can look at it would be much appreciated.. Kind Regards. Clueless
  8. jet_bunny

    DRZ400e Mid Throttle Stumble

    Hey guys and gals, I've been trying to pin down a problem for a few weeks now with no success. I've read countless forum posts to no avail so here I am. This post will be a bit long but I want to provide as much info as possible as this has me stumped. I have a 2005 DRZ400e. Mostly stock besides the 'free power' mod and the previous owner opening up the airbox and drilling some holes in the stock exhaust to open it up (and make it way too loud). When I bought this bike last year it ran flawlessly. The day after I bought it I left on a two week adventure through far north Australia. Unfortunately the stator was toast, but I luckily had a starter pack that got me through the trip. Other than that it was mechanically solid. After arriving home I let it sit for a few weeks and after that the damn thing just wouldn't start. I got the stator professionally rewound and had them check compression for me. Low and behold the compression was terrible, so I pulled the top end apart and found that the piston rings were absolutely embedded in their grooves. I assume this could be the result of overheating, as without a working stator I was leaving the bike running as much possible. It took a lot of persuading and hot water to get them unstuck before replacing them, but the piston and cylinder looked absolutely fine. So after this the bike started up straight away but wasn't holding idle. Knowing that I'd need to clean the carb I decided to purchase a carb rebuild kit along with a JD Jetting kit. Unfortunately my compressor has broken, but I was as through as possible trying to clean out all the circuits and replacing the clogged jets with the new ones in the kit as well as replacing all the O-rings and gaskets. Currently my carb settings are as follows: Float hight 9mm Main Jet 155 (142 is stock) Pilot jet 45 (stock) Pilot air jet 60 (stock) Mixture screw at 2.5 turns And I'm using the JD blue needle on the 4th notch as suggested by the instructions. Now after doing all of this the bike starts up perfectly and runs great at low speed but has a very weird problem. When I accelerate in any gear through around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the bike falls flat on its face. It doesn't backfire, but it feels like it is starved for fuel and misses considerably until it gets to a higher Rpm and then it takes off like a rocket again. Never experienced anything like it before and the bike is unfortunately unridable because of it. Here is a list of things that I have tested: Petcock flows fuel fine Replaced fuel with a fresh tank Checked for air leaks - no change Rode with choke on - no change/ worse Rode with airbox cover off - no change Disconnected RR - no change Disconnected TPS - no change I'm really running out of ideas here. I need to test if putting the original needle back in changes anything, but that will probably have to wait until next week. A few other notes: My battery is pretty much shot. It has enough juice to start the bike a few times but that's it. Is it possible for a dodgy battery to cause these sort of problems? I was under the impression that the bike gets its juice from the stator once running. The mixture screw does not seem to do a whole lot. The bike will idle with the mixture screw all the way in, and will still idle with it out 3 turns. This doesn't seem right. I have an extended mixture screw on the way so that I can test it a bit easier. I would appreciate any input as I am grasping at straws here. Thanks in advance, Jet
  9. jbreierbikes

    2001 YZ125 no spark problem?

    Hello everyone, I’m in need of some help with this one. About a month ago my 2001 YZ125 was running fine until all of a sudden after running WOT for a little bit i let off the throttle and the bike instantly died. I checked the bike out after I got home, and sure enough no spark. I changed the plug thinking that was a possible problem but it didn’t fix anything. Tested the ignition coil and thought that might be the issue so I got an oem replacement, and it ran again for about a minute, but when I gave it a little throttle it died again and then I was back to no spark. So I put the old coil back on and cleaned the ground points real good. Cranked it over, started and then again i gave it some throttle and it died again. I also noticed that when I kick it over the starter likes to slam back into position which it never did before, and there is excessive amounts of smoke coming out of the exaughst when it does. Today I replaced the ignition switch because I thought that it may have gotten screwed up earlier from when I dumped the bike, but it made no difference. Im totally lost on what it could be, maybe cdi? I don’t know what the symptoms of a bad cdi are, so I can’t tell. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated, thank you in advance!
  10. Hello, just had quite a day trying to get new and properly working ignition coil assembly for my bike (2005 Yamaha WR250F) and I'm left with a few questions that oracles from mount Google are not in the mood on answering. TL;DR; Just skip to questions section Situation through almost all year of owning this bike I've had varying random misbehavings in a such a way, that it would randomly stall and sometimes it would start up just right away (1-2 cranks of e-start or a few kicks with kick-starter), but sometimes it would turn into fitness machine (10-20 kicks to start or a lot of pushing and trying to bump starting it). In this period managed, to reassemble, clean and/or change a lot mechanical parts and only with the help of a brave guy (who took an "extra mile", when he was about to give up, because the best it could fix it up, to a point where it would start cold and when it worked a little bit, then it would randomly die) from a local small dirtbike/motorcycle garage we've narrowed it down to faulty ignition coil assembly. From his friend (who owns something like 2008+ Yamaha WR450F) he borrowed working ignition coil assembly, switched it with the one that was used at the time on my bike (2005 Yamaha WR250F) and my bike started to work like a clockwork Since this problem was driving me crazy, I've decided to opt for OEM ignition coil assembly (and in all honesty there are not a lot replacement/aftermarket options for this part in my part of world ), but the best my garage guy could offer was shipment from Yamaha international stock (something like 2-3 weeks estimated delivery time), so I've had a one day to search for options/alternatives. In the end I've contacted local official Yamaha motors dealers and he was able to get the needed part fast. During my search and inquiries to some local dirtbike groups on the internet I was offered ignition coil assemblies that looked almost identical that was needed for my bike, but were from a similar (the same manufacturer [Yamaha], the displacement [250cc], the same combustion cycle type [in this case: 4 stroke] and yet were meant for different models. Questions 1 . Apart from the different part number and fitment for different displacement models, what is the difference between these parts: https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5TA-82310-10-00 (WR450F - the one that was used by my garage to find that my current ignition coil assembly is faulty) https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5UL-82310-10-00 (WR250F - factory original) https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/8ES-82310-00-00 (WR250R - the one that I was being offered by a guy from local dirtbike club - he though that it should work, but I see that his bike uses a bit colder [9 instead of 8 measuring in NGK heat range] but very similar [gap, threads and etc] spark plug). 2 . Would using 450F ignition coil assembly on 250F would have any longer term effect on engine reliability, performance or etc ? 3 . Are there any websites on the web that have more detailed technical specs (like resistance, voltage, power or etc) on the above mentioned parts ? Thanks in advance.
  11. nate9521

    kx100 spark problem?

    I have a 2001 kx100 and i think it has a weak spark. i took the carb off and sprayed starter fluid in the intake and when i kicked it it did nothing. i know its sparking though. i took the plug out and looked at it while i kicked it. it looks like a white spark. i tried a new plug and a new ignition coil. didnt help. my stator resistance and crank sensor resistance are in spec. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
  12. David Cannalonga

    1997 KTM 250 EGS SEM Ignition Problem

    Hi Guys, My SEM coil has failed, and they are very hard to find, and very expensive! does anyone have any suggestions of alternatives? Could i fit a non charging stator as this would be a cheap fix. Any suggestions welcome.
  13. Nick Fitzgerald

    Wiring into ignition case

    Is this normal for the wiring enetering the case? A lot of wire is exposed without the black hose covering them? This is a brand new 2018 300xc
  14. Hi all, Bought a 2007 WR450F a couple months ago. Electric start was working fine, and worked for a few weeks without issue. Recently the red ignition button light stopped glowing when clicking the On/Off button and readying to start. I kick started to get it home without problem, and kicked to start a few time after that without problem. When I got around to looking into it, the battery read at 11V. I replaced the battery and a blown 10A fuse on the positive (right hand) side. Also noticed that the 90 degree inlet on the carb was leaking, so I replaced the 3 O-rings (# 3TJ-14564-40-00) to stop the leak. Upon starting, the bike idled fine, and ran great for about a half mile before dying. Again, red ignition button light stopped glowing. My *assumption* is that the fuse blew again, but I cannot yet confirm. I was on my way to work, so I haven't had time to look into it yet. I'm fairly strong mechanically, but don't know much about electrical. My guess is that this is not an easy fix-- maybe a short, and I'm looking for advice on where to start. I appreciate the help guys!
  15. riverside21

    Arrowhead IHA6017 cdi box

    Has anybody purchased/used one of these Arrowhead IHA6017 cdi boxes?? I tried 2 different ones of these on a 1987 and 1994 XR200R, and the bikes won't even start. Bikes just pop and backfire, had to put the old cdi's back on. I noticed when I ordered the boxes they stated "advance ignition curves" in the specs. The box is also much bigger than the stocker and won't fit in the rubber mount. I didn't mess with moving around the timing to try and get these to work....I just sent them back.
  16. Hello, Recently my '07 525 EXC was stolen, thankfully the Alameda police found it. Unfortunately the bike wasn't the same when she returned. It had a screwdriver ignition in place of the stock key switch. Do any of you have the pinout of the oem switch plug and switch? I bought a replacement switch from ebay and it didn't have a matching plug. I am trying to wire in the new switch, but I am unsure the wiring combo. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Wires-Universal-Ignition-Switch-Key-for-Honda-Yamaha-Kawasaki-Suzuki-KTM-/331584958637 From what I can tell, the switch works as: Switch Off Wire A + B = On Wire C + D = Off Switch On Wire A + B = Off Wire C + D = On Joe
  17. helloimbronson98


    so i was out riding my ttr 230 and it was running fine as usual for about 10 minutes and then i was going up a hill and it just bogged out and shut off. its electric start only so i tried to start it to go up the hill and it wouldnt turn over, i pushed it up the hill and let it sit for a few minutes and tried starting it again and it wouldnt crank over the light would blink when i pushed the starter. so i tried to bump start it and it didnt start, i tried again and it started and it would idle but when i gave it any gas it would sound terrible and want to bogg out and die. so i just put it in 4th or 5th gear idled it home. the next day or so i went out a tried to start it and the little light didnt even light up when i turned the ignition on. im pretty sure its something to do with the ignition so if anyone knows whats up ill take any advice. i rode it feb-april about 3 times a week about 30 miles a ride with no issues and it sat over summer for a few months and thats what happened my first ride out. thanks in advance
  18. Hi everyone. I pick up a running road legal Cr500r supermoto. First day I had it I got the kick process bang on all ran fine, decided to rebuild the engine after I sore the state of the cylinder and rings. It's been rebuilt with 99% Honda parts and now it's all together I have no spark. Been trying most of this year to find out what's happening. I done all the tests by Haynes and it come back fine. After a clean up of grounds (frame wasn't repainted) and connectors different sparks I decided to replace the ignition parts cheapest thing first. Now I've had a new ecu, stator rewind (shop test shows it needed doing), new coil pack, new spark boot, new plugs and got the pick up tested while it was rewound and it's still coming back ok but I don't seem to be getting any spark. I closed the air gap between the pick up and stator to .01" so it's definitely picking up. My hour meter is reading the starts but I still have zero spark. If anyone can give me anymore advice as I'm about to pull my hair out. All ohms tests are in the middle of where they need to be and it was sparking before the rebuild, weak but still good enough to run the bike. I've been on the Cr500r riders forum but not had many responses so I hope some one on here can give me some ideas of what to try next.
  19. Hi everyone, I bought a ’87 XL600R running and riding about two weeks ago. A few days later I was struggling to start it. I checked for spark which it didn’t have and while doing some diagnostics I found the stator had low resistance (140ohms vs the range in my manual 230-320 ohms). I picked a new one from RickyStator and threw that in with no luck. I then got some advice from a relative and replaced the spark plug wire which did fix my problem, I fired up the bike and took it on quick rides upwards of six times that Sunday (new bike, woo!). Monday I go to fire it up again and the bike refuses, no spark again. Tuesday I clipped the end of the wire and got it to spark again but not start. And today, Friday, I’m stuck with no spark. So to cap this all off I have a couple of questions: 1. The manual I have says I can check the primary and secondary coil resistances for the ignition coil but its for an 83-84 and the coils changed over the years, so I have no idea how to check it. Guidance on how to check these values with a multimeter would be great. 2. Is there anything else you would try? Ive seen lots of talk about faulty CDI’s but it never seems to be the final problem with no start bikes. If so, steps to check this unit would also be greatly appreciated. 3. A fresh link to a free download a more current manual would be fantastic… if there is one. Thanks in advance, Ben D.
  20. Dear All, My problem with pover valve is gone - But now I have next suprise. In medium-high and high rpm's engine break/interrupt a ignition, also there are some pops/shots from exhaust, please look at video: Engine and bike is already after general repair. I got new sparkplug (according to Manual), fuel-oil ratio and all parameters according to Manual. I also already fixed problems with povervalve - I don't know nothign about stator and CDI unit. Maybe it's some problems with ignition timing? I would be gratefull for all issues and advices - I spend a lot of time and money for this bike, but it still don't have power according to this problem. During ride 1st to 3rd gear are almost good (but still not good as other 125 cc) 4-5 gear much weaker at high rpms, and in last 6th gear I even can't touch high rpm's. Best regards Lucas
  21. winterkill

    2006 450r Spark?

    alright guys. I am completely new to this bike. its a 2006 crf4509r. currently have no spark. bike did not run at all last year. kicked on it for a while, replaced fuel and cleaned bottom side of fuel system. pulled spark plug and no spark when turned over. ohmed out kill switch, works correctly. ohmed out stator , works correctly, checked resistance on coil an thru plug wire and their both correct... new spark plug installed and still no spark. any help would be appreciated.
  22. Riley saunders


    I have no spark on my 09 kx250f. Stator has been replaced along with the igniter, harness, kill switch, and everything has been tested. I don’t know what to do. If you could help me that would be great.
  23. My 2016 450 is surging under load, right in the powder band. Is that generally a pump issue? Changed fuel filter, unable to test just yet though.
  24. Hello everyone, my 1994 KLX650 stopped working a week ago: the alternator broke, no spark. I was calling some scrapyards, and one of them said one from a KLR650 from the same era should fit. Does anyone know whether this is true? Thanks in advance! Added a picture of it, absolutely in love with it! Hope I can get it back on the road soon.
  25. TrailandTail

    1998 KX250 ignition coil

    I'm currently trying to get my sparkless kx250 to run I've been trying to test the ignition coil with my handheld tester but I've run into problems. The service manual I found online has the test laid out as shown in the picture with the primary test running over the yellow arrowed items and secondary over the blue. I cant get my ohm meter to register any reading over these points on any ohm setting (200-200m, and yes I know my tester functions correctly). The red arrow points to a wire that isn't even mentioned on my service manual as being there (however its shown in the 2003+ manual for some reason?). I've used the measurement tests from the 2003 manual to test over the primary windings for a resistance of .8 Ohms, and secondary resistance of 17.8 Ohms are these in spec? Also why the hell does my 1998 kx250 have a coil that seems to have an 'extra' wire coming off the ignition coil? Whats it for? If I purchase a new one do I need it to also have this wire? As you can tell im new to this whole thing, we used to just take our bikes into our local shop but I would like to save money, I already have upwards of 3k spent there with very little to show for it. The first picture is the test setup from the 1998 manual, second is from the 2003 manual.