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Found 40 results

  1. Hi guys, Was happily riding my DRZ400SM the other day (06) and all was fine until I arrived at my destination and noticed the HUD flickering and resetting. Shut the power off and turned the key and got nothing.... No lights or anything. Assumed it was an issue with the charging system so got my buddies to bump start me, the bike ran fine but got nothing on the HUD at all and the lights were very dim but, strangely, got brighter when I applied the brakes (That was a fun ride home at 11:30PM, 60 mile journey in the dark and hoping to god I don't stall). Got home, tested the battery and it's hitting 13v so it's fine... Checked the ignition, unplugged and tried resistance across the terminals... Not getting anything. I also noticed a wire that was just broken in the loom, not sure if this is relevant to anything as I can't see how it would have broken randomly but, still it must be something! Anyhow, this seems to me like the Ignition is at fault, any further checks recommended to rule anything else out? As the battery is 13v I can't see it being anything in the charging system and the main fuse was fine. Cheers all! Matty.
  2. Nick Sebasovich

    DRZ ignition coil

    I have an 03 drz that will not start, I've checked fuel, compression, and now I'm chasing spark I got a manual and started doing some electrical ohm tests. stator, rectifier, and coil. The only one that didnt match the specs in the manual was the coil. I have two coils for this bike and have tried them both in the bike. They both make spark when they're out of the bike and grounded to the frame. however neither of the coils meet the spec for the secondary coil ohms. The spec is like 13k to 20k ohms one coil gets like 2,500 ohms and the other gets like 5,000 ohms on the secondary Are both coils bad? and.. Is it possible that I'm not getting spark in the cylinder?
  3. Nathan Anderson

    2016 250 XC-W No Ignition Spark

    Hello, this past weekend was overly frustrating for me and a few friends. We planned weeks ahead to get away for the weekend, leaving the even more frustrated wife and kids, traveling a few hours south to ride at Burning Rock Outdoor Adventure Park in WV. Cabins rented, tanks filled, bikes in tow. We made it 15 miles from camp the first morning only to have my rather new (250 miles, 16 hours) 2016 250xc-w stop dead. Initial thought was a plug, which when changed it hit just for a second then shut off again DEAD. Put a third plug in and towed it down the trail in third gear for a 1/2 mile... NOTHING DEAD. Finally pulled the plug and realized it wasn't sparking at all. We switched the CDI box, voltage reg, and coil packs between mine and my friends 2014 on the trail to no avail. We also checked the kill switch. Fast forward to today and I have pulled the side case to inspect the stator. You can see in the picture the bottom black winding, which by the manual looks to be the charging coil of the ignition is bubbled (not sure if that's normal). The maintenance book I have states at 68 degree, which my garage is maybe 75, the resistance should be 12-16.6 ohms. You can see right at the coil itself I'm getting around 9.7, and if measured at the bus connecter as the manual says, it reads about 10.1. All the other values for the coil pack and stator are perfectly within spec, and nothing is shorted to ground. I'm the original owner of the bike and haven't done anything but change the oil and clean the air filter. After all that my question is are those roughly 2 ohms enough to prevent the plug from sparking??? Alternator specs Lighting winding .1 ohms Battery winding .7 ohms Stator spec Pulse generator 100.1 ohms Coil pack Primary winding .3 secondary 6K ohms On a side note, I highly recommend the trails (what I saw) and the employees of Burning Rock. One of the maintenance guys rode 30 minutes with my friends, around the mountain, in the truck, to lead them to me... Super friendly folks. https://burningrockwv.com/
  4. I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have not found any options available for the new 2018 bikes. I live and work for a new Beta Dealer (Auburn Extreme Powersports) in California, and we are having a difficult time mapping the RR-S bikes for full FMF exhausts. We have tried contacting Beta Support several times for this issue to no avail, and we typically are given the runaround when transferring to techs and secretaries. From what we can gather, the FMF flash is designed for the RR bikes, but not the street-legal counterparts. Every time we try to install the FMF map onto an RR-S errors occur, and the programmer screen goes virtually blank. We have heard through the grapevine that some are using the RR maps on the RR-S with success, but we have yet to try it, even on our own bikes for fear that it will permanently erase or damage the CDI. Any and all help or suggestions regarding this topic would surely be appreciated! Thanks, Ben.
  5. I have a 2014 450 XC-W. I'm adding high/low beam, signals, horn, etc. I'm aware of the Sicass kit options but I chose to order OE KTM EXC harness components. I ordered the lighting and turn signal harness for a 2014 EXC (77711079000 and 77711081000) and decided for the time being not to install a keyed ignition switch. Instead, I ordered the key switch eliminator jumper (781119990000). I also got the Euro headlight and flasher switch (78111070000 & 78111029000). In looking at the parts breakdown, the XC-W and the EXC have the same "main" harness (7811075133). I'm in the process of installing the EXC harnesses and most of it is falling into place. Except for one thing; on the EXC, the key switch eliminator jumper simply replaces a jumper that's already in the harness. You simply unplug the ignition switch, install the key switch eliminator jumper in place of the stock jumper and you're good to go. Here's the thing; I don't have the "stock" jumper anywhere in my harness nor do I see the four pin connector where the EXC keyed ignition switch would plug into. Again, I realize my bike is an XC-W and the ignition switch wiring was not stock on this bike, but I have installed the lighting and flasher harness for the EXC. All other harness part numbers I can find are common between the XC-W and the EXC. I can't find a single harness part number that differs between the EXC and my XC-W (now that I've installed the two EXC harnesses). I can only assume the stock jumper and the four-pin ignition switch connector are part of an EXC specific harness, but I'm stumped as to which harness that could be. Again, I don't see any harness part number variation between the XC-W and EXC models. Thoughts?
  6. nate9521

    kx100 spark problem?

    I have a 2001 kx100 and i think it has a weak spark. i took the carb off and sprayed starter fluid in the intake and when i kicked it it did nothing. i know its sparking though. i took the plug out and looked at it while i kicked it. it looks like a white spark. i tried a new plug and a new ignition coil. didnt help. my stator resistance and crank sensor resistance are in spec. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
  7. Good evening tt! New guy here! I have an 01 yz125 i fully restored and rebuilt from ground up. However i am now hitting an issue with the bike where it is breaking up half throttle, seemingly right before powerband. This occurs on or of choke too.The bike is all stock aside from New top end and bottom end and seals, which are all stock spec. My carburetor and jetting all checks out. My reeds are good. It has a brand new plug and new fuel. The bike has been set up like this for almost 2 years and has been running great until last week. Im thinking it may be ignition related but would appreciate any second opinions. Thank you!
  8. OffRoadEmpire

    sparkissue Ktm 300 2012 no spark

    Hi guys I took of my stator cover and starter. i Put everything back together in correct order but no spark dont know if there are any wires that could have pulled out or disconected Please if any body has an idea or know of anything i can look at it would be much appreciated.. Kind Regards. Clueless
  9. Hello, just had quite a day trying to get new and properly working ignition coil assembly for my bike (2005 Yamaha WR250F) and I'm left with a few questions that oracles from mount Google are not in the mood on answering. TL;DR; Just skip to questions section Situation through almost all year of owning this bike I've had varying random misbehavings in a such a way, that it would randomly stall and sometimes it would start up just right away (1-2 cranks of e-start or a few kicks with kick-starter), but sometimes it would turn into fitness machine (10-20 kicks to start or a lot of pushing and trying to bump starting it). In this period managed, to reassemble, clean and/or change a lot mechanical parts and only with the help of a brave guy (who took an "extra mile", when he was about to give up, because the best it could fix it up, to a point where it would start cold and when it worked a little bit, then it would randomly die) from a local small dirtbike/motorcycle garage we've narrowed it down to faulty ignition coil assembly. From his friend (who owns something like 2008+ Yamaha WR450F) he borrowed working ignition coil assembly, switched it with the one that was used at the time on my bike (2005 Yamaha WR250F) and my bike started to work like a clockwork Since this problem was driving me crazy, I've decided to opt for OEM ignition coil assembly (and in all honesty there are not a lot replacement/aftermarket options for this part in my part of world ), but the best my garage guy could offer was shipment from Yamaha international stock (something like 2-3 weeks estimated delivery time), so I've had a one day to search for options/alternatives. In the end I've contacted local official Yamaha motors dealers and he was able to get the needed part fast. During my search and inquiries to some local dirtbike groups on the internet I was offered ignition coil assemblies that looked almost identical that was needed for my bike, but were from a similar (the same manufacturer [Yamaha], the displacement [250cc], the same combustion cycle type [in this case: 4 stroke] and yet were meant for different models. Questions 1 . Apart from the different part number and fitment for different displacement models, what is the difference between these parts: https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5TA-82310-10-00 (WR450F - the one that was used by my garage to find that my current ignition coil assembly is faulty) https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5UL-82310-10-00 (WR250F - factory original) https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/8ES-82310-00-00 (WR250R - the one that I was being offered by a guy from local dirtbike club - he though that it should work, but I see that his bike uses a bit colder [9 instead of 8 measuring in NGK heat range] but very similar [gap, threads and etc] spark plug). 2 . Would using 450F ignition coil assembly on 250F would have any longer term effect on engine reliability, performance or etc ? 3 . Are there any websites on the web that have more detailed technical specs (like resistance, voltage, power or etc) on the above mentioned parts ? Thanks in advance.
  10. jbreierbikes

    2001 YZ125 no spark problem?

    Hello everyone, I’m in need of some help with this one. About a month ago my 2001 YZ125 was running fine until all of a sudden after running WOT for a little bit i let off the throttle and the bike instantly died. I checked the bike out after I got home, and sure enough no spark. I changed the plug thinking that was a possible problem but it didn’t fix anything. Tested the ignition coil and thought that might be the issue so I got an oem replacement, and it ran again for about a minute, but when I gave it a little throttle it died again and then I was back to no spark. So I put the old coil back on and cleaned the ground points real good. Cranked it over, started and then again i gave it some throttle and it died again. I also noticed that when I kick it over the starter likes to slam back into position which it never did before, and there is excessive amounts of smoke coming out of the exaughst when it does. Today I replaced the ignition switch because I thought that it may have gotten screwed up earlier from when I dumped the bike, but it made no difference. Im totally lost on what it could be, maybe cdi? I don’t know what the symptoms of a bad cdi are, so I can’t tell. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated, thank you in advance!
  11. jet_bunny

    DRZ400e Mid Throttle Stumble

    Hey guys and gals, I've been trying to pin down a problem for a few weeks now with no success. I've read countless forum posts to no avail so here I am. This post will be a bit long but I want to provide as much info as possible as this has me stumped. I have a 2005 DRZ400e. Mostly stock besides the 'free power' mod and the previous owner opening up the airbox and drilling some holes in the stock exhaust to open it up (and make it way too loud). When I bought this bike last year it ran flawlessly. The day after I bought it I left on a two week adventure through far north Australia. Unfortunately the stator was toast, but I luckily had a starter pack that got me through the trip. Other than that it was mechanically solid. After arriving home I let it sit for a few weeks and after that the damn thing just wouldn't start. I got the stator professionally rewound and had them check compression for me. Low and behold the compression was terrible, so I pulled the top end apart and found that the piston rings were absolutely embedded in their grooves. I assume this could be the result of overheating, as without a working stator I was leaving the bike running as much possible. It took a lot of persuading and hot water to get them unstuck before replacing them, but the piston and cylinder looked absolutely fine. So after this the bike started up straight away but wasn't holding idle. Knowing that I'd need to clean the carb I decided to purchase a carb rebuild kit along with a JD Jetting kit. Unfortunately my compressor has broken, but I was as through as possible trying to clean out all the circuits and replacing the clogged jets with the new ones in the kit as well as replacing all the O-rings and gaskets. Currently my carb settings are as follows: Float hight 9mm Main Jet 155 (142 is stock) Pilot jet 45 (stock) Pilot air jet 60 (stock) Mixture screw at 2.5 turns And I'm using the JD blue needle on the 4th notch as suggested by the instructions. Now after doing all of this the bike starts up perfectly and runs great at low speed but has a very weird problem. When I accelerate in any gear through around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the bike falls flat on its face. It doesn't backfire, but it feels like it is starved for fuel and misses considerably until it gets to a higher Rpm and then it takes off like a rocket again. Never experienced anything like it before and the bike is unfortunately unridable because of it. Here is a list of things that I have tested: Petcock flows fuel fine Replaced fuel with a fresh tank Checked for air leaks - no change Rode with choke on - no change/ worse Rode with airbox cover off - no change Disconnected RR - no change Disconnected TPS - no change I'm really running out of ideas here. I need to test if putting the original needle back in changes anything, but that will probably have to wait until next week. A few other notes: My battery is pretty much shot. It has enough juice to start the bike a few times but that's it. Is it possible for a dodgy battery to cause these sort of problems? I was under the impression that the bike gets its juice from the stator once running. The mixture screw does not seem to do a whole lot. The bike will idle with the mixture screw all the way in, and will still idle with it out 3 turns. This doesn't seem right. I have an extended mixture screw on the way so that I can test it a bit easier. I would appreciate any input as I am grasping at straws here. Thanks in advance, Jet
  12. David Cannalonga

    1997 KTM 250 EGS SEM Ignition Problem

    Hi Guys, My SEM coil has failed, and they are very hard to find, and very expensive! does anyone have any suggestions of alternatives? Could i fit a non charging stator as this would be a cheap fix. Any suggestions welcome.
  13. Hi all, I have a 2004 Kawasaki kx250 that died suddenly on me the other day. all i can get it to do is backfire every once in awhile. Tested the resistance and everything of the magneto and stator with a multi-meter and all is good. Coil is new oem Kawasaki the reeds are brand new vforce and the top end and carb have been completely rebuilt. key on crank is intact and all the timing marks are lined up. I hooked a timing light to it and spun the motor over really fast and found that it is sparking way to late. The service manual says that it is supposed to fire 14 degrees before TDC but it is sparking way after TDC. Im thinking its a fried CDI box since its the only thing i wasnt able to check. Any help would be appreciated Thanks
  14. I feel like ripping my hair out! I bought a 2005 cr125 years ago, brand new. From day one it was a fouled. Eventually I had it tuned kind of good. A couple of years ago someone stole my bike. Obviously I recovered it. My crank bearings were shot. So I split the cases and changed them and both seals. After assembling the bike it smoked and bogged like crazy. I thought I may have fudged up the right crank seal when I installed it...nope changed it and still smoked and bogged and fouled. It sat up for about a year and I just broke it out again. It doesn't smoke as bad. If I idle for about 10 seconds it'll blubber and shoot out smoke before fouling a plug. The strange part it that it rides pretty good on the pipe, but out of the blue with blubber and eventually die. Now After cleaning the spark plug and kicking it, it'll turn over for a sec and die. The spark looks weak so I check it with a new plug and it looks good (so I'm assuming it's not the ignition system) anyone else have this problem? I'm beginning to think this bike is a money pit...but on the same hand I feel like it's something small causing all of this. Oh and also it's dripping that black crap from the tailpipe and plugs are always wet. I went down a size on the pilot...didnt help.
  15. tpharmon

    Xr600r intermittant miss

    I have a 1993 XR600R that has been dual sported. Top end was rebuilt about 1000 miles ago. I have a miss in the engine that begins as you accelerate after the engine is warm - about 5 to 10 minutes of riding. As I accelerate, the engine feels like it cuts out intermitantly . If I slow down it runs strong with no miss. I have rebuilt the carb and everything is to spec. Engine idles fine. New plug. Any ideas.
  16. My electrical problems continue. I have stripped all but necessary wiring. I have the wire from the points, a black/white wire from the coil, a short green wire from the coil to the condenser. There is a black and white wire coming from the flywheel, but as far as know that is AC and is sent to the rectifier changing it to DC and used to charge the battery. I have hooked it up as shown in the picture and the positive wire from the battery to the coil is getting very hot. Being the SL required a battery to run correctly and the XL did not...are the coils different? I am trying to use a XL125 coil.
  17. The problem occurs about the midrange, the motor runs uneven and dont produce any power. The motor starts easily, don't smoking, and idles very well. Under and above this certain rpm range the bike runs well. In neutral the problem dont occurs. In smaller gears and in sliperry terrain where the wheel can spin the bike runs better. My first thought was it is a carburetor problem, but douesnt matter the throttle position, the problem always occurs on the same rpm range, so I start to think maybe the ignition has the problem. I found the stock carburetor setting is: 170 main, and nldt-4 needle. The bike had 175 main and I changed it to 162 (because there is 2 type of k9 rmz 250 and the other type of k9 stock main is 162) but it dont solve the problem, I also tried different clip positions. I changed the spark plug and the old the spark plug has a perfect brown color. I dont check the float level and needle because I think if its bad the bike would run bad in every rpm range. By the way the bike is totally stock. Sorry if I made any mistake in my write, my english knowledge is not perfect.
  18. OutsiderVA

    XT500 no spark

    Hi folks, I bought a bike about half restored. '78 XT500E. Many new parts, but the previous owner said he couldn't get it to spark. The coils look brand new, points and condenser as well. I haven't actually removed the flywheel to see the stator coils yet. Previous owner removed: battery, rectifier, and kill switch to run as a dirt bike only. Key ignition switch is still intact. I unplugged the key ignition switch for these tests to eliminate that possibility, and I did a few tests. When I kick the bike, and hold the spark plug to the motor or other ground I get ZERO spark. When I remove the plug and cap, I got zapped when holding the wire and kicking. When I take the Black/White wire leading to the coil and hold to a ground I get a noticeable blue and rhythmic spark. So power is making it to the coil. I got the following readings with my multimeter, though some of these jumped around a lot. Black wire from 4-wire stator loom to ground = 2.5ohm --- can't find spec Primary Coil (Black/White wire male blade to ground) = 1.2 ohm -- spec is .75, so high...maybe too high? Spark Plug Cap to ground = 11.73k ohm Spark Plug wire w/ NO cap to ground = 7.03k ohm - spec is 5.75K ohms, so again, high. Also, new plug, and even bought a new Emgo universal coil to test. Similar results, tho I think it’s got lower resistance than the other coil I’ve got which appears to be a newer after market unit. The gray one that it seems everyone has and sells for XT500. Also, attaching a pic of my points for reference in case something is majorly off there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  19. Hey guys, though I'd throw it out there and see if I can get any suggestions on chasing an issue with a friend's 2006 DRZ400s... Issue started with the speedo cluster flickering on and off, then it went off and now there is nothing happening when I turn the key on. The bike is stock with the exception of LED turn signals that have been on the bike for years. Checked the battery and it's good, after a full charge, I started checking fuses, connections, wiring behind the headlight and everything seems to be in order, checked the ignition switch and it seems to be working fine. Did a current check on the battery and it has a draw of around 19/20mA, not sure if this is normal or not, I have a Claimer manual that states 1mA is normal, so not sure if this is part of the issue or not. Has anyone ran into this issue??? Does anyone know how to check the speedo cluster for shorts or any faults? Any and all help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
  20. Anyone running a Vortex ignition on a YZ250F 2014-2018, or 450 for that matter? What advantages does it have over tuning FI/IG with the GYTR power tuner, and are there maps readily available for stock or mod and race fuel? I've messed around with the GYTR tuner on one of my bikes- 2017 YZ250F with bolt ons and VP racing fuel, but there is a lack of maps to run and I've heard there is more power to be had with the Vortex Ignition. I'm aware there are other less costly avenues to add horsepower.
  21. Hey guys im looking for an opinion. I have an 01 yz125 and its sputtering half throttle right before powerband. I have checked every last thing from jetting to stator ohms to reeds, gas cap etc ive pretty much narrowed it down to possibly the cdi going bad. Now im just curious on what symptoms would designate a bad cdi? Any help is greatly appreciated
  22. I have a 2001 Honda XR80r that I'm getting together for my nephew that has been nothing but problems. I've heard it start, but run only briefly and now it wont even pop. I have a new ignition system, spark plug, carb, tank, and it has a blue spark. I have no clue what's causing it. I thought it might be the magnet of the flywheel because it was chipped and not too magnetic. Replaced it with another and still nothing. It kicks over OK and I heard it run before and it sounded decent, just shut off after a while which prompted me to get a new carb. I had to kick it like crazy to get it spinning so it would start then, which is why I thought it might be the flywheel magnet. This is beyond frustrating and I'm beginning to think the little bastard is cursed or something. Might take it down to the stealership for diagnosis because I'm at my wits end. Is there anything I'm missing that would keep it from running? The carb is new, I timed it out and the valves are set OK. Any help is appreciated.
  23. My 2016 450 is surging under load, right in the powder band. Is that generally a pump issue? Changed fuel filter, unable to test just yet though.
  24. winterkill

    2006 450r Spark?

    alright guys. I am completely new to this bike. its a 2006 crf4509r. currently have no spark. bike did not run at all last year. kicked on it for a while, replaced fuel and cleaned bottom side of fuel system. pulled spark plug and no spark when turned over. ohmed out kill switch, works correctly. ohmed out stator , works correctly, checked resistance on coil an thru plug wire and their both correct... new spark plug installed and still no spark. any help would be appreciated.
  25. Dr.dualsport

    dr350 bad CDI?...

    Hey guys, The 1999 dr350se crapped out on me while riding a week ago and I don't see anything left to try other than to test my CDI. Now in the manual they give that table of values to measure with the Suzuki Pocket Tester and they say every other multi meter is useless for this purpose. Is that true?... Do I really need to take my whole bike in to a dealership just to test the CDI? I did the tests with a multi meter anyway and about half of the tests were outside the spec range, I just want to be sure my CDI is actually toast before buying a new one based on my test. The problem with the bike: At first I just noticed flooding, backfiring, hard starting, shaky idle etc... She would run fine right off the clutch but as soon as I hit 4000 rpm it would bog so bad the bike would basically die on me. If I could manage to push it past about 5.5k rmp the bike becomes rideable again, but there is still a noticeable studder. I pulled the airbox and carb, cleaned and oiled the air filter, gave the carb and jets a full overnight soak and then put a new viton gasket in the needle seat before I put it back on the bike. I got some low end power back in first and second gear but did nothing for the bog. After messing around with the carb for days, I am somewhat confident that the problem is not in there... Jetting was fine before, diaphragm is fine (tested both visually and by blowing air in the carb and seeing the slide lift) float height is fine. I raised the needle clip one position, did not help. I also pulled the cylinder head cover and checked the timing just to be thorough, it looked fine. Ignition coil tested fine as well. Spark plug is BLACK, its running super rich in the mid range. If I stick a hose down the plug hole and blow air to dry up the flooding in the cylinder I get about a quarter cup of gasoline to spray out, but it only happens when I try to ride the bike not when idling or sitting. Can a misfire cause flooding like this? It would make sense right? If I am trying to run in the mid range but the plug is only firing, lets say, every fourth ignition stroke, then all kinds of fuel would be collecting in the cylinder? Please let me know if I am on the right track with the CDI, I am open to any and all suggestions