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Found 22 results

  1. I would like to preface this by saying that this might be somewhat of a rookie question, but never the less I am in search of answers. For some time now I have noticed that the front brake on my 2003 450 EXC has been fairly squeaky when coming to stops, even though I have hardly put any miles on the bike since I installed new pads several months ago. Upon closer inspection to the front caliper I noticed that the outside stationary brake pad does not appear to clear the thin channel located at the top of the brake pad for the rotor to pass through (picture provided). I would also like to add that I have an extra front caliper for my model KTM that also appears to have the same "issue", and this caliper is also the one I will be posting photos of, instead of the one currently mounted on the bike. So, is it possible that this is the source of the banshee screech my front brake seems to emit whilst coming to a stop? If so, does anyone know of any fixes for this issue, or is it something that I just shouldn't be worrying about? As a final side note, the only direct, let's call it, "performance" issue I have noticed is that my front brake is unable to keep the front wheel locked whenever I attempt to do burnouts. I could basically be squeezing the lever so hard that I feel like it's going to snap off in my hand, and the front wheel will either slowly roll, or sightly hop. Thanks to all in advance for any help or wisdom given, it is very much appreciated.
  2. Hello, 2016 ktm 150sx. I am the only owner and have less than 20hr on this bike. It developed a shifting problem. It will not stay in gear, jumps around in and out of all the gears, running or not. I pulled it out of the shop yesterday pushed it up to the another building leaned it aganst the wall. came back to move it and it was in gear. The shifter feels real simmilar to a small kids quad. where all the gear shifts are one direction, and even though you shift down to first gear you can still just keep clicing it down all day long (if you follow what I mean by that. it does not hit a floor once you are in 1st like any other 1 down 5 up tranny). I have found and downloaded the manual. I could find the link if anyone needs it, but nice guy 10 dollar donation and instant access to 100's of ktm service manuals. Anyways i found the time to start tearing it down, but thought it would be best to see if anyone has had or seen a similar issue be for I start.
  3. Hey guys - I got a pretty good deal on a used 98 RM125 but when I pulled the cylinder to inspect, I saw a crack. When I asked the seller about it, he said he's been riding with that crack for over a year with no issues. "He says" that his mechanic told him it was not worth getting the cylinder honed / plated given the cost. What are your thoughts? I am thinking it needs to be repaired but wanted some additional opinions from experienced riders and / or mechanics. thanks for your help! Chris
  4. Hi guys, I got a kx 85 2001 and i have a problem.. since i got it, sometimes its hard to start but since 2 days, i've started it but died when i went for a ride and wouldnt start anymore. So my problem : the bike crank but is really hard to start (if it start).. and if it start, it die.. and again hard to start. -Spark is good, air filter is clean, jetting seems okay (needle look pointed and carb clean), after a lot a cranking the gas get out by the overflow of the carb (so i have gas with good ratio 40:1) and the motor was replaced recently at 135psi of compression. Another thing, a got spooge from the exhaust. Now i am checking for the reed valve, they're not broken but i see a really little gap with my light and if i turn over the plate, its really worse. So do you think they were already turned by someone else ? Does a really little gap can cause a hard start/bogg like this? Should i change them for new ? Another idea on what i should look?? Thx !
  5. I have a 2008 ktm 250sxf and I'm having a lot of problems with it. I missed yesterday's race because it wouldn't run right. It's idling really rough. Every few kicks it will back fire really loud when I get it to run it will idle rough and when I give it gas it will bog then when I release the gas it will rev high and is hard to come down. I will give it the smallest bit of throttle and it will stick at a really high idle and I have to rev it hard and quick a few times for it to come back down. When I put it in gear and try to ride it slowly it just tries to take off and it doesn't even feel like a high idle. I have to ride the front and rear breaks for it to not take off. I can let off the throttle and put it up to 6th gear and it still keeps going. I just had the entire top end replaced. Cylinder piston rings etc. I cleaned the carb several times cleaned all of the jets and still nothing. Replaced the throttle cable even disconnected it and still nothing. If I disconnect the throttle positioning sensor it runs a little better but is still pretty rough. I used a multimeter to test the tps and it seems fine other than when it's at "idle" it's at 1.14 on 20k I give it a little gas and it sticks at 1.17 until I rev it hard a few times. No idea what it could be. Needle and seat seem fine I'm stumped on it. Please help!
  6. Hey guys, Backstory: 2010 RMZ 250, bike always ran and shifted great, no false neutrals, everything was fine and good serviced. Did another rebuild recently (3rd one so far). New Rod and athena 290 bigbore kit this time. Gearbox looked fine upon inspection. Bike started, ran and shifted great after rebuild. So, here's the problem now: after a few laps, the bike started sputtering and clonking in 4th gear and only in 4th gear. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th had no issues at all. The sputtering felt like a fuel problem, it just won't rev up. When i was trying to figure out what was wrong, the transmission locked up in 4th gear on the bike stand. Sure enough i ripped the whole engine apart again and found a broken shift fork (the one for the 5th gear). Everything else seemed good. So i installed a new shift fork and inspected the other parts. Bike starts, shifts smooth and sounds good. Rolling in all gears is no problem. But again, the 4th gear sputters under load. And that's where i am now. Going to open the engine again. But maybe somebody has an idea what's causing my problem. Seems to make no sense to me. Mike
  7. So awhile back I got my little brother a KTM 50LC Pro Senior. When I got it the clutch and brakes where toasted so I got that all up to speed and he stated doing laps around the yard. All things are good until a few weeks ago. We went out for an actual ride where he could open it up a bit. Few hours of seat time in we stop for lunch and hop back on the bikes. The little KTM isn't starting so I get over it for a few kicks and realize something is wrong. I instantly thought piston and rings due to the kicker being extremely easy to move. I pulled the dome off and realized that compression was good but I can basically just touch the piston and move the kicker with no movement from the piston. Not sure if its part of the kicking system that's messed up or the clutch is toasted again. Just looking for some insight before I dig in any more. I do notice that the kicker doesn't really "let go" after the kick, it just stops the piston and all at once.
  8. Hi everyone, I recently purchased a 2010 Suzuki DRZ400E and am in love. The bike is awesome and rides like a dream. It has one issue though. Sometimes the Headlight does not come on at all (High or Low beam) but the blue Headlight indicator on the instrument panel is permanently on (even when switch between High to Low beam). When the Headlight works normally, the blue Headlight indicator on the instrument panel works as it should as well, only coming on when High Beam is selected. The issue randomly sorts itself out from time to time. However it's quite odd and makes evening / night rides impossible. Have any of you legends come across this issue or know what it is and what needs to be done to fix? Thanks in advance.
  9. Got a new rear tire, super knobby. Having issues when riding after putting it on. At no point did I feel I was in control of the bike, it was absolutely no fun to ride yesterday. Is this normal when putting on a new really knobby tire? Thanks in advance.
  10. So i have bought a used bike with only 17 hours on it and is very clean. I went to ride it once with no issues and then washed the bike. After that day the air filter/Air box was making a weird sucking sound with every stroke of the engine. Second issue is when i idle in neutral there is a slight scraping or engaging sound in the bike but it goes away when i pull the clutch in. Also the bike turns off when i go into first gear Plz help ps none of these issues were present the day i got it
  11. I have a 2018.5 450sxf with roughly 50 hours on it. I was riding today and it randomly shut off. Started it back up and both my map switch lights were on and it wouldn’t let me change them. Rode it back to the truck, turned it off then started it again. Map switch lights were fine but my FI light was flashing. It just flashes on and off and I can’t seem to find anything In the book about it. Any ideas ?
  12. Bike: 2002 KTM 250sx. Problem: The carburetor seems like it is having difficulty delivering fuel to the engine. It will start and run for 5 to 10 seconds then die, It then takes about a minute before it will kick again. What's Already Done: I have taken both the carburetor and all of the throttle assembly off the bike and cleaned them. The bike ran a little longer after I did this but nothing more than that. Any suggestions to fix the issue are much needed and apperciated. Thanks -SLR
  13. I just got done totally rebuilding a 2014 kx450f I mean all new everything on the inside of the motor. But now the bike won’t start on its own. But it will start with starting fluid and then it stays running untill you shut it off. Could my fuel pump be going out or could my ECU be bad? Iv had different people tell me different things. Bike also has a bit of a misfire when your trying to keep the throttle locked at a certain point. This is my first fuel injected dirtbike and I’m not sure what to check first and or how to check it. I put a lot of money into this bike and I just want it to run right.
  14. I have the following issue on a brand new 2019 KTM XCW 300. On low RPM, the engine is sputtering (sorry if I can't find a better word, I am not a native speaker) It feels like a cold engine but all the time, even after 3 hours of riding. Apart from that, the engine is a beast and if I open the throttle a bit then there is no issue. I tried updating to the latest firmware + change the reed valve from stock the vforce and back to stock again with no success. Any idea what might cause this and how to fix it? Here is a video of the issue:
  15. i have an 03 yz250 that i just put a new top end on. it was dropped in the mud while running and the kid kicked it over 100x to try and start it and wore the rings flat. it starts and runs fine for about 20-30 seconds and then the idle starts to get higher and wont come back down, if you give it throttle it will die out. i just went through the whole carb, cleaned the reeds, unplugged the tps and im out of ideas at this point. if you give it some throttle it will rev and then hang but after about 10 seconds come down and surge and the process will repeat every time you give it some throttle. i have 100 octane mixed 32:1 for fuel. any ideas would be appreciated
  16. Hey guys, I recently dumped my KTM 690 in a rather large mud puddle. After washing it A LOT, and cleaning out the wires/battery under the seat I have found a new problem, it won't start as it should. It starts occasionally but most of the time there is a "buzzing" or "squealing" sound coming from what seems to be the fuse box when the starter is engaged. Has anyone else had this problem? Everything else seems to be running properly, though I have heard the buzzing noise most of the internet seem to attribute to the "fuel pump" priming, it sounds more like a solenoid to me but I'm not well versed in electronics. Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance. The youtube link shows the starting issue
  17. Hello all, I just recently bought a 1999 Husqvarna WR250, It has some problem with the clutch, so its got a new clutch cable which i have no issues with, but when I start the bike and put it into 1st it will stall unless im giving it some gas, as soon as I am riding and stop giving it gas even with clutch pulled in it will die unless im in 'N', and sometimes not every time but pretty often when i go into first and give it some gas again with the clutch lever pulled in I will roll forward. So im pretty new to dirt bikes and such, but i've read up online and some people it say a plate in the clutch area can get chewed up and it won't disengage properly, some say i need a new clutch, or an adjustment somewhere else, so finally my questions -Is there an adjustment not related to the clutch cable that i can try to make? -parts for my bike seem few and far between is there a bike out there that has the same clutch so if i need new plates and such i can get them from another bike? Seriously thanks for any help, looking forward to fixing this and really enjoying some dirt biking!! Thanks.
  18. trying to get my motor to run better. working on the TOP END Kawasaki klx250 valve specs exhaust: 0.15-0.24 mm intake: 0.10-0.20 mm First Time: took it apart to check the valves. (without removing tensioner) put it back together changed the oil notes: it was making a tapping sound (prob the chain ) shifting bad Second Time: took it apart again, reset the timing, reset the tensioner and sub tensioner checked the valve clearance -exhaust: 0.14 and 0.15 mm -intake: 0.13 and 0.10 mm notes: after the second time runs a lot better , shifts smooth as hell and no more chain noise **but slight tapping noise and a lot more backfire , this is what I'm worried about** I want to get the exhaust to around 0.21mm (I think the tapping is the valves) slight hesitation , I think its the carb or exhaust
  19. Hey guys, When I'm stopped with the clutch fully in(I've wound the cable in and out and in again but it still does it) it trys to go forewards with just enough torque to be annoying( I can only just stop it with my feet) when the tires off the ground I can't stop it with my hands with the clutch in. Any ideas?
  20. Just bought this bike and cleaned and re oiled and sealed the air filter and change the oil and then started it the other day and this clank started after putting it in gear. I then put it in neutral and it persisted. Sounds to be coming from the bottom end. Searched around and am led to believe it's the cam tensioner or possibly a valve clearance issue. Was curious if anyone here had any good insight. Here is a video:
  21. I just bought a 2002 Honda XR200 that was hardly ridden at all and has lived most of its life in a storage locker. I already cleaned the carburetor and replaced some of the jets. I also replaced the air filter. I have checked to make sure the pep cock is clean, and even replaced the gasket that goes between the exhaust pipe and the engine. It starts up on the first kick, but when I turn the throttle more than 1/4 the way, it dies. Any ideas that you have would be appreciated. Thank you.
  22. Hey just wondering if anyone else has had this issue with there bike and could point me in the right direction anyway starts perfect with or without the fast idle pulled out, but once it warms up completely (roughly 3 minutes of idle) it just shuts its self down you can keep it going with the throttle or by pulling the fast idle out and doesn’t throw and DTC’s or mil lights you can ride it and it’s fine not loss of power or anything along those lines but it try’s to shut down when you get off the throttle eg: going into a corner I’ve already checked good spark- hot and cold coil fuel pump and fuel filter good and clean. Air filter clean- issue still there with it in or out fuel cap and breather not blocked valve clearances in spec compression is in spec spark plug has been replaced injector clean and working perfect maf sensor cleaned
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