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Found 25 results

  1. Hi, I have a new kx100 2018 and I am have an issue of bogging it usually happens when shifting into 3-4. its as if someone hit the kill switch. bike stays running just have to stop and wait a few and it's good for awhile. doesn't happen when cold always after its hot. We did a few heat cycles, and verified fuel replaced factory air cleaner ect. changed plug, changed plug type, tired several clip positions on needle jet. did a wide open plug read, it was a touch lean. I ordered a few main jets to try, i plan to clean carb and check float height. A few other clues, it happens on flat ground and hills. my son is an experienced rider were just ,moving up from kx85. bike has 2 1/2 tanks of gas thru it. Thanks for any help, we need to get this sorted before we can go to track
  2. Hello, 2016 ktm 150sx. I am the only owner and have less than 20hr on this bike. It developed a shifting problem. It will not stay in gear, jumps around in and out of all the gears, running or not. I pulled it out of the shop yesterday pushed it up to the another building leaned it aganst the wall. came back to move it and it was in gear. The shifter feels real simmilar to a small kids quad. where all the gear shifts are one direction, and even though you shift down to first gear you can still just keep clicing it down all day long (if you follow what I mean by that. it does not hit a floor once you are in 1st like any other 1 down 5 up tranny). I have found and downloaded the manual. I could find the link if anyone needs it, but nice guy 10 dollar donation and instant access to 100's of ktm service manuals. Anyways i found the time to start tearing it down, but thought it would be best to see if anyone has had or seen a similar issue be for I start.
  3. I replaced the transmission on an '05 kx85, and ive put the cases back together and everything spins freely, it shifts through all the gears, but once you put that tensioner thing that presses on the shift drum (dont know what the part's called) you cant shift into 3rd, itll get stuck halfway between second and 3rd, but once you take off that tensioner thing you can spin the drum and shift through all the gears just fine, whats going on?
  4. So I recently bought a used 2005 Yamaha Yz85. The bike is generally in pretty good condition; a few things missing here and there, but nothing that isn’t expected on a used two stroke. One thing though is an issue: the forks. The forks are very hard and barely move a lot of the time. When they do move, they go down with a lot of resistance, but then get stuck were they were pushed to and very slowly come about half way back up. When you push them down they leave a little ring of residue where they stopped. Do the fork seals need replaced, does it need new fork oil, or is it something more serious? Any info is appreciated.👍
  5. Bought new in 1997, my Suzuki DR650 motorcycle in 2014, with 20500 Km on the clock experienced unpredictable catastrophic 3 rd gear disintegration. Eventually in December 2016 the Small Claims Court of South Africa, with Suzuki Auto South Africa defending,the court awarded me my damages claim for the repair of my Suzuki motorcycle. For more details visit www.harryterezakis.blogspot.com
  6. Hey guys, it's been about 3 months since I bought my new yamaha yz450f and today it has about 21 hours of use. Now, the other day climbing a dune the motorcycle began to make a strange noise only when the motorcycle runs in the 4th gear (in the rest of the gears it does not happen) everything indicates that the gear of the 4th gear was broken or that He moved. Did anyone else happen to this or just me? The motorcycle has only 21 hours incredible that a 0km motorcycle breaks the transmission only climbing in dunes. What do you think it could be? What should I do in this situation? Change brand and buy Honda or Kawasaki? I do not know. I am very disgusted and frustrated with the brand for now and with this happening on a completely new motorcycle. I await your fellow responses. Thank you
  7. Hello all, I replaced the stator cover the other day and when I started the bike it started and ran fine for about 3 minutes and then stalled. Started it back up and it stalled again after 5 seconds. Then it would not start with choke or no choke. Waited two days and the first start it started fine but only ran about 2-3 seconds this time. Then it went back to just cranking and not starting again. Any input?
  8. This is the 1st video in a series around carburetor functions, problems, diagnosis, and fixes. I have for a long time had a lot of info and other videos about carburetors but never put it all in one place or broken down so novice's can learn and teach themselves to help themselves solve their carburation issues. I have had a text based page for a long while, but it might be overwhelming to some SEEN HERE
  9. Hello, I went to start my 2019 yz 250f today (electric start) today and the bike did not start or even try to i rode the bike on sunday and it was perfectly fine so i am not sure what the issue is and im wondering if anyone has any fixes. i started the bike (popstart) and went onto the yamaha app and it showed the battery was going from 14v to 13 to 12 back to 14 but once the bike is shut off the battery wont even crank. any info will help thanks.
  10. I just bought a 2006 yz250f yesterday. It has excellent compression, and is fast as hell. However, when I rev it in neutral/with the clutch pulled in, the bike revs up nicely but takes about 5 seconds to rev down! It's like the throttle sticks but the cable is returning fine. The condition is called hang idle to my knowledge. I tested for an air leak and sprayed carb cleaner on the air boot to check for an air leak already. When the carb cleaner was sprayed in one spot, the idle went up SLIGHTLY but I don't think this was because of the carb cleaner because it wasn't a significant change. I have not been into the carburetor yet and really want to avoid that but I can if need be. What could be wrong? Basically, my bike takes FOREVER to rev down and this could be dangerous while riding if my RPMs stay high when they shouldnt. Any help/ideas appreciated! Thanks.
  11. let me start off by saying, that i am a long time reader, but have never posted until today. I HAVE SEARCHED EXTENSIVELY. all over. i have done multiple fixes and changes. but, here we go... I road race in a mini bike series. kx65's are ultra popular and competitive due to their cheapness, speed and weight. I have a kx65, my frineds have kx65's, everyone has kx65's! lol My kx65 however seems to have no top end power. I can run lap times close to 2 seconds faster on our endurance bike (which i dont own), and I can always really feel the top end pull on it. Both bikes are modded exactly the same. except one runs race gas, mine does not. I have ridden other peoples kx65's and their bikes also make more top end power than mine does. What its doing is it feels like the top end just flattens out and tapers off right when it should be at peak power. It doesnt bog, it doesnt stutter, it just flattens out and makes no power where there should be 2-4k rpms of more power band. MODS MADE TO BIKE -wiseco 46.5mm piston (72cc), GENUINE keihin pwk28 carb - 132-148 main tested. float level set to factory specs, 42 pilot is golden, clip set to third position, off idle is beautiful, mid is great and will power wheelie shifting from first to second. vforce 3 carbon reeds. moose intake spacer, dent free factory expansion chamber, brand new pro circuit pipe. -crank, piston, and main bearings have 10 hours on them. rings have maybe 1 hour on them, plug color with WOT plug chops in fourth are kinda ehhh, not dark, but not light, but i can never jet it to the point of it being brown on the main jet. i have as of today ordered a 130 main jet to try even leaner settings...color largely remains the same no matter what, power is flatter with richer jetting things ive done to try and recitfy this issue -new crank seals, split case and resealed it, new piston rings, performed leak down test, held pressure except for at the plugs on the leak down tester. confirmed with soapy water... jetted and jetted and jetted. confirmed timing position. 120psi of compression on brand new rings...maybe they just hadnt seated yet?, new dent free expansion chamber, new head gasket, pit free head, confirmed squish at .65mm at all four corners. squish is however tighter right at the edge due to head gasket being slightly smaller due to 72cc piston (everyone else i race with is like this too though), what else...checked coolant system, no leaks, holds water over the course of a race weekend. last year i ran a grom, it was a pig, i wanted to get results and lap times like i had on my buddies 65, so i got a used clapped out 65 and built it. so here we are...makes great bottom and mid power, falls flat on the top, doesnt bog, doesnt stutter, and my gearing is a little bit shorter than some peoples. i get plenty of drive off of other riders on the corner, but they catch, pass me on the striaghts. when trying to pass people, i suck up on them on the brakes and in turns, then they leave me on the straight. its been half a season of me not getting results and im getting heavily annoyed... am i simply running out of my powerband and its being exacerbated by slightly shorter gearing? is my clutch slipping and making it feel like it doesnt build anymore power, but the motor isnt really increasing in revs...is my stator or coil going bad? who knows. im sure its engine related... any more ideas or questions and i will immediately respond because i sit at a desk all day at work, and have pretty much unlimited internet access... long post is looooonnnnngggggggg my neighbors are beginning to get pissed at me for screaming around all the time doing plug chops...
  12. I picked up a 2008 450 XC-F and converted it to street legal. Once complete I rode it into town (approx. 6 miles). Went inside to eat and came back out it wouldn't start. I thought it was just the battery so I replaced it and still nothing. The bike just spins and spins but will not light up. If I open the throttle about a quarter turn the engine turns over faster but still not even pop like it is trying to fire. I checked the spark and it is okay. Compression seems okay as well. I can smell gas so I assume it is getting fuel but I haven't checked in depth. The bike started up and ran fine all the way into town. I'm thinking it jumped time but was told that's is almost impossible to do on these bikes. Anyone have any ideas of what it could be?
  13. I am looking for advice, my yz250f 2009 has had a issue for awhile now were as I can turn the bike over with my had quite easily. I have yet to do a compression test but am confused, the bike altough low compression does start eventually. easy cold but sometimes first kick hot but other times I'm there got 10-15 minutes. when trying hot it wants to start were it is almost starting everytime but I feel it just needs more compression to start. I have put new spark plug in and jetted carb to where I think it is not longer the problem. no shavings in the oil filter, what should I do ? put new piston and rings in it???
  14. I have a 2010 ktm 250xc and as I was changing the chain and sprockets today I spun the rear tire and noticed a wobble from side 2 side. It wasn't that bad but it's noticeable. Long story short I cut my chain 2 short and it was very tight on the bike I cranked it and ran it for maybe a min in first gear before realizing. I took the chain off and spun the tire again and it seems like the wobble has gotten worse... it's not the bearings because I just changed them and they only have one ride on em. I didn't change the spacers tho. I'm not super knowledgeable about wrenching on the bike I've just been kinda teaching myself. Idk if I fcked something up or if the rim is bent need some help here. Also we have a ride planned for this weekend would it be safe 2 ride it with the wobble or would I just be damaging it even worse . Thanks In advance for the help
  15. So i have bought a used bike with only 17 hours on it and is very clean. I went to ride it once with no issues and then washed the bike. After that day the air filter/Air box was making a weird sucking sound with every stroke of the engine. Second issue is when i idle in neutral there is a slight scraping or engaging sound in the bike but it goes away when i pull the clutch in. Also the bike turns off when i go into first gear Plz help ps none of these issues were present the day i got it
  16. I have a 2018 500 Exc-f with only about 60 Miles on it. I noticed today that at idle, if I blip the throttle quickly and then let off the engine will either bog down or die completely. I thought it may be related to the JD tuner I had just installed last night, but I unplugged the tuner and it is still doing it. Has anyone else had this issue? Please help! Only other mods done are the bike is desmogged. I didn’t notice this until after I had removed the tank in order to install the JD tuner last night. Could this be related?
  17. Sup guys so im new to this dirtbike world, bought a new 2018 crf 250 r when i Got it at the dealer the battery was dead so they supposebly put a hot one in and finally turned it on so i took it home about a 2 hour drive and the bike would not turn on again. So i charged the battery and finally made it run again and rode about an hour then it kept turning on fine, then i let it sit for about an hour and it wouldnt fire up on the first try had to give it a little gas and finally it started up, but supposebly you should not give gas to these electric start bikes???so about 2 days later I went back to try and turn it on and nothing again it would just try to start it and nothing till the battery died again so there I go again to charge it and finally turns on again? Does this have to go on every time i let the bike sit for couple days? Is it normal or somethings wrong? Man its probably a dumb question but im new to this so any tips would help!
  18. i have a very beautiful 2004 kx125, i picked it up a few months ago and when i got to the guys place to check it out, he started it by foot like normal and i rode it around the yard and about 500 feet i went and brrrrrrrr it fouled the plug??? but it was 1800$ so i was like heck with it im still getting it to the looks of the condition and claimed recent rebuild. i took it home and we replaced the spark plug and we had to bumpstart it this time. again 500 feet and brrrr fouled. this bike has a BRAND NEW mikuni carbourator OEM with jetting and airscrew position on point, Timing is perfect, i even tried advancing and retarding the timing, still nothing. i put it back in its normal position though. Reeds are good. no gasket leeks. good compresion. spark plug is BR9EIX NGK. it gets a spark, its getting gas, its getting air. when i try and start it, it back fires sometimes a loud pop. carb should be out of question, timing should be out of question. what else is there to check? i have talked to a few people saying it might be either, crank seals, or the stator. but i have NO IDEA of what to do. please help me i know u guys might know what to do, im 15 and trying to get into mechanics and i try to be the best mechanic i could possibly be with my hard earned tools. 4/1/17 ill be checking on any comments or suggestions every 8 hours or so. and i also dont want to buy new parts for the bike that it doesnt need. Thanks for reading! give me your best shot, I accept any help!
  19. New to this site and looking for some help. Recently I've been having troubles with my 2015 KX250F regarding it starting. When I bought it (used) a few months ago it started on the kick like normal and ran like a dream. Not even a month into owning it, the thing would not start cold on the kick no matter how long I spent flogging it; it could only be started by rolling it. However once the bike was warm, it would start 1st or 2nd kick no problem. Now recently the bike will not start whatsoever. Tried to roll start it and it kept a big sort of buzz but never really caught on and started. I put a new spark plug in and cleaned the air filter but no luck. It is fuel injected so I feel it may be a problem with that. My mate suggested I could need to dump the fuel and put fresh fuel in but just looking for other possibilities. Cheers.
  20. Heres a strange problem for the community, I have a bike thats failing a compression test but passes a leak down with flying colors... 2012 KTM 250 SX-F Valves spot on, clearances spot on New cam chain Dirt Tricks cam chain tensioner HAS fuel HAS spark 4% leakdown on the leakdown test FAILS compression test horribly Thoughts?? I am flat out stumped...
  21. I'm caught between a rock and a hard place. My 2010 KTM 250 XC won't stop peeing coolant out of the overflow tube. I've used 3 different radiator caps (two of the oem 1.8 bar caps and one CV4 2.0 bar) and it still continues to pee coolant as soon as the bike starts up. I just recently bought and installed brand new radiators [GPI on eBay for $88 (the seem fine just the welds are a bit crappy and you can see inside of the tubes where the metal from the welds drooped down but there are no blocks)] and silicone hoses (profactory hoses) thinking they were the problem since the old radiators were bent in like bananas. To my dismay that was apparently not the issue. I've had everything apart and looked at. Has brand new base gaskets, head gaskets, radiators, and radiator hoses. I've bled the radiators like the manual says and there are no bubbles like air leaking into the system or being in the system. The jetting is also perfect. The only thing I haven't changed out is the oem impeller in the water pump but it looks to be in great condition. Any ideas on how I can fix this problem before it gets worse? Also, has anyone else had this problem and figured out how to fix it? I ride it in mostly tight 0-10 mph trails and also some 10-20 mph trails.
  22. Basically, we all know 2004 is the year of the terrible valve issues on the Honda 250r, so can I buy a 2007 Head and put it on the 2004 cylinder?? Also what material are the intake valves on 2004 CRF250R
  23. Hey guys. I bought a 2004 KTM 65 sx for my boys. I brought it home, thoroughly cleaned the carb, put it back in and started it up. It runs for 3-5 min and as it warms up it eventually won't run. First the throttle response goes, then rough idle, then it won't idle, and finally even if you pump the throttle it will give up. If you let it sit for a while you can repeat the whole process. So, I took the carb off and cleaned it again thinking I must have missed something. Same result. Then, I checked the reeds and changed them. Same result. I'm actually enjoying working on the bike but my boys are getting a bit impatient and I could use some help. Thoughts? Ideas? Any help is appreciated, I'm new to the forum and getting into riding again. Thanks!
  24. Hey guys, Background: I was riding my dirt bike and it was running great. I went to pull in my clutch, and it took about half of a pull for it to even engage. I realized the issue and kept riding, but about one minute later i had lost my clutch completely. it was all slack, as if there wasn't even a cable connected. if i came to a stop in first gear with my clutch lever all the way in against my handlebar, it would stall out as if i wasn't holding the lever at all. A stretched/frayed cable was my first thought, but upon digging deeper into the problem i am rather certain it is nothing lever/cable related. First i drained my trans oil, no metal chucks, shards, nothing came out. Then I took off my flywheel cover, and removed the necessary components to remove my Clutch Lifter Lever. Surely i thought i was going to find that the pin had broken where it pushes on the Lifter Rod, but that was not the case either. I removed the clutch cover, and nothing was abnormal. I have the correct amount of steel/fiber plates in the correct order, none are cracked. None of the bolts/springs were loose on the Pressure Plate, and neither was the lock nut holding on the clutch basket (which also has the lock washer and thrust washer trapped behind it). The Lifter Rod and Clutch Lifter seem to be in correct condition. My buddy was even generous to let me tear apart his same exact bike and compare the Lifter Rod and Clutch Lifter, which checked out to be the same, except his clutch works great while mine doesn't. I did not check his Lifter Lever because of the hassle it is to take that off and set the timing again after etc. I have had multiple people check that all of the components were in there, and checked with my manual at least a dozen times. Everything is there. There are five pictures below, the first two are pictures of my Lifter Lever. I have ordered a used one of these in hopes that it could somehow solve the issue, even though nothing seems to be wrong. Our best guess is the pin that comes in contact with the Lifter Rod spun, but it is not loose by any means and does show any visual signs of that happening. The third picture shows the distance between the Clutch Lifter and the surface of the Pressure Plate which i measured with my calipers and is .150" The fourth photo shows how far I need to lift my lifter lever up in order to remove the slop and start to disengage the clutch. I have almost no travel, because the Lifter Lever comes in contact with the casing (about 1/8 inch gap between the two in picture). In picture five, this is where the Clutch Lifter should be, which is .040" from surface to surface. To my understanding, there is .110" of slop between all of these components, but everything seems in the right condition, and no signs of broken pieces. The fifth picture is how the manual and my buddies bike shows it to be, and how i believe mine should be. Does the orientation of the pin on the clutch lifter lever look correct? it seemed to compared to the pictures i googled. I am completely stumped. Has anyone had similar issues? Please let me know if you need better clarification, its a very hard problem to describe over a post. Thanks in advance. Austin
  25. So I had my 2001 yz125 out today for a little run out along the back road and and half way down after opening it a up a little it bogged and died, managed to get it kicked over again without much trouble, did it again jst before I got back, finally I kicked it over again when I got back and seemed to run smoothlyish Then it started running at high revs for unknown reasons and iv got a leak from the weep hole ? Could this be connected? Or does this seem like a separate issue and nothing to do with the bogging? Any help would be massively appreciated as I'm not mechanically inclined. Many thanks
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