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  1. Could it be the reason of why my gaz tank empties so fast?
  2. So my 1987 yz 250 starts, runs, and sounds fine. The issue I’ve been having is when I get on it and let off it doesn’t idle down that great until I let out the clutch. Even it neutral sometimes it’ll idle up a bit until I put it in gear and let of the clutch a bit to put load on it until the idle slows down. I can’t figure out what the problem could be.
  3. INTRO: Long time listener, first time caller. For the umpteen millionth time, here are questions about the "standard mods" for the DRZ400SM. I realize much of this has been covered over the years so thank you for indulging me, but it's hard to find quantifiable differences in fuel economy and air intake noise bw stock/post mod rather than just decreased mpg/increased air intake noise. I know, I know ... Smiles per gallon. I guess I'm trying to figure out if it's worth the extra stops to the pump in doing these mods (esp since I believe California tank capacity is 2.5 gal?). INFO: Most of my riding is in the canyons plus freeway to/from. As it's getting warmer, I'll probably start taking bike more recreationally as well, but not touring or any crazy distances. Since I have an exhaust on there, I plan to jet after 600mi break in service. Only other performance mods thus far are 39T in rear to help with freeway cruisin'. THE DEBATE/OPTIONS: (a) jet only (b) jet and pull snorkel (c) jet and full 3x3 mod. QUESTIONS: How much less fuel economy could I expect? How much louder is air intake? Is pulling snorkel going to make any difference without 3x3 mod? If 3x3 is done, is it also good to bypass/remove CA emissions stuff?
  4. I have a 2004 Yamaha WR250F that the previous owner modified and the bike doesn’t run the way it should. It has an FMF muffler with an aftermarket pipe coming from the engine. There’s no other silencers or restrictions in the exhaust. When I got the bike, it was backfiring every time I let off the throttle no matter what speed I was doing. When the previous owner first started the bike, part of the exhaust pipe was cherry red while he was warming it up by giving it more throttle. I took the carburetor apart and found out that I have a 178 main jet, 40 pilot jet, and 72 leak jet. The needle clip was in the middle in the 4th position. I adjusted the fuel screw back to the 1.5 turns out position from the 3.5 turns out position the previous owner had it set at. I changed out the pilot jet to a 45 and the bike no longer backfires while I ride it but it does die when I leave it to idle. Sometimes it dies immediately after letting off the throttle and other times it will idle for a minute or two before dying. Now before this gets too confusing, I ran the bike with the fuel screw at 1.5 turns out and 3.5 turns out after changing the pilot jet. At 1.5 turns out, the bike would only run when choked and would die when idling. At 3.5 turns out, the bike will run with the choke off but will still die when idling. If anyone has any suggestions to try, please let me know.
  5. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  6. So I have a 04 Honda cr85 with a pro circuit platinum pipe and r304 shorty silencer. The original owners have it jetted for sea level and now I have the bike where I live at about 2500 elevation what jet should I get and what are the numbers and stuff for them to get it jetted, it's about 60-85 degrees around that area, the bike just doesn't idle anywhere I go except for at my house no matter how warm it is
  7. Trying to get some opinions on the 2017 Husqvarna tc250 jetting. I have 2.5hrs on the bike and 2 fouled plugs. Since switching from a yz250 and various 4t's, I have realized that my carburetor knowledge and setup is not what I thought it was. I'm currently at stock jetting and needle settings. If you have suggestions for jetting, air screw positions, idle screw from factory, etc. Please let me know!
  8. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  9. Hi guys, i'm looking for some help on rejetting my bike. Basically every guide I see is about the DJ and JD jetting kits which are obscenely overpriced to get shipped to the UK, we're talking around $150 for something that should be less than half of that cost given the parts in the kits. So, I was wondering if anyone knows of somewhere in the UK these can be purchased at a sensible price or a workaround of buying the parts individually? I've got a DRZ400s (2001) and I've yet to take the carb off, although the bike came with an FMF downpipe and exhaust, it seems to be running lean so for peace of mind I want to rejet the carb and open up the airbox (3x3). According to service manual documentation the bike has the following on the carb: Main Jet - 142.5 Pilot Air Jet - 135 Pilot Jet - #22.5 Am I correct in assuming it's the Main Jet and Pilot Jets that are what need changing? I've watched a few videos and read up a load about this and everyone seems to refer to the Main Jet, which in my case would need to be a 160 as I'm basically at sea level, however i'm having difficulty in finding what part I need to order, there's a UK website I can order from http://www.motocarb.com/ and this has a range of Mikuni jets but i'm unsure which ones I need and don't really want to pull the carb apart to identify these parts. Another post on these forums from almost ten years ago suggested that link and said to order the N100.606 part, however this seems to be the Pilot Air Jet so it just makes me really unsure on what I need. Would anyone be kind enough to clarify? Also I'm under the impression that the key to these kits that you can buy is the fact you can change the needle settings via the clip, is it possible to just add washers to the stock needle to have the same effect?
  10. I have a 2008 YZ450F with the stock Keihin FCR MX 39 carburator. The mods that I know the bike has are a new FMF PC4 pipe with no spark arrestor and a aftermarket header pipe that looks to be just an OE replacement. I have already done the O-ring mod the the carb and have thoroughly cleaned and replaced all the gaskets. I also just re-shimmed the bike and checked the timing and everything is in spec, she starts as easy as a 2 stroke now and runs VERY well in everywhere but from idle to the first 1/8th throttle any maybe just a bit beyond that. There is a lot of popping and it sounds like it is breathing decently hard. My jetting specs Main jet: 160 Pilot:50 (sounds rich I know) Needle: NFLR 4th position Leak jet:55 Starter:72 Fuel Screw:1.5 (when I adjust this it hardly changes anything) So for the jetting changes I make if I put everything close to stock it runs very lean! So the bike runs amazing everywhere but that first bit so I was thinking about changing the needle diameter but I have NO idea on how to decode the Keihin charts and would appreciate some help I want the same needle specs as my OE needle but with the diameter being just a tad more on the rich side. From what I have seen here https://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/needle_keihin_N427-OC_FCR_35-41mm.html Changing the diameter to more rich would help fix my issue. I may be too stupid to read that chart or something but help is appreciated, thank you!!
  11. I've got an 01´ cr125 with the stock mikuni TMX probably the 36mm, i just got the bike. I've been riding it for awhile now and i can never get the idle to be set up right, and the power delivery seems very choppy. I just don't want to get lost in jetting with it because everyone just says its not worth it to try and get these things perfect. can anybody direct me to a forum that has information on the best carburetor to run on these for motocross? I think i'm leaning towards the PWK airstriker but which one? I would spend the money on a lectron but i would like some insight first I have the mechanical ability to re jet this carb everywhere i go but i don't really want too, i know you still have to adjust the PWK but i've heard it not as much. i'm going to ride it how it is right now because i'm not super picky, but i'd like to get into some racing next year and im saving up money to invest into my bike, i feel like the only thing on it that isnt quite ¨race ready¨ is the stock carb. some insight would be awesome! thanks -Devin bianco, 15y/o, not a good rider yet but trying my best to learn
  12. I have a small ttr 230 Yamaha trail bike and live and ride at 8000 ft and above. I want to add all the free mods to the bike by taking out the baffle, drilling holes in the air box and re jetting. Stock the bike has a 36 pilot and a 125 main jet, what should I change the jets to for better performance and high altitude? I have been told to change it to a 38 130 combo but i do not know how the altitude would affect it.
  13. Hello Everyone, First post on thumpertalk but I have been lurking the forums for awhile. I am new to the supermoto world and definitely new to carbed bikes. Came from the supersport world so any help is appreciated. My setup: 2015 DRZ400SM -Full Yoshimura RS-2 Carbon (recently installed) -Stock Mikuni Carb -K&N Air Filter -3x3 Mod (to be completed soon) -JD Jet Kit (also to be completed soon) I live in CT so the bike is inside for a couple months due to weather. I can run it but cant ride it much unless we get a clear day, so I would like to get the jetting as close to perfect as I can on the first go around. Riding anywhere from sea level to a couple thousand feet above sea level max (0-2000ft) Wondering what you all recommend for my jet setting. I have the stock fuel screw as well as everything the JD kit comes with. Thanks for the help!
  14. So in my downtime (TT downtime). I was looking over the crowd sourced documentation in the "Shop Manual" A great resource. I became curious if anyone would be interested in providing specifics about their bikes and setup and contributing to the data collective. I have started a google form that would provide graphs, charts and export to Google sheets for further analysis. Before we would go-live with this I would need some feedback about what specifics should be included and what might be useful or not useful so that the collected data could be used to effectively. The form is here : https://goo.gl/forms/CGpHG010tbbWHepB2 The sheet with the data here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18iV_VfzHyaKKckaIvanyDn9KXqBg_9N9eazyalMO-mQ/edit?usp=sharing I am concerned with some aspects of the data collection: 1. CSV within a column, and to accurately extract this. 2 validation of values for those that are write in. You engine builder guys would know of the combinations available and therefore make the majority of the available options a drop down selection, eliminating the write in data. This form would enable the user to graph data points of other users to represent what works well for them in specific elevations and temperatures with their specific build. Comparing their results to what you want to achieve and have starting points based on what has been used. The key to starting this is to have accurate data and relevant fields to calculate what is needed. Please look over the form Your feedback is requested
  15. Hey all, I have got some carb trouble. I have been riding around my 2001 xr650r on roadtrips for about a year. Mostly up in northern california in the winter where its cold. With my FCR41 ive always had the issue where if i leave the petcock on, it wont start due to flooding. The bike runs great, just I have to turn off the petcock when doing ANYTHING.. like stopping to piss .. ANYTHING. I was on a recent trip through Arizona and Nevada a few weeks back and noticed that it was running super super hot. It was 115F outside, but the bike hit 250F on the vegas strip. Ive got a TT Vapor on there, so I am monitoring the water off the block. I have engine ice in it and a 1:8 cap. I figured with these two issues, its time to mess around with the carb. I pulled it apart and found that ive got a 160 main jet, 55 pilot jet and an OCEMP jet needle. The Needle clip was on 3/7 (from the top of the needle). So I set the needle clip to 5/7 and adjusted the float a tad leaner (its supposed to be 9mm). I also set the fuel screw to 2 turns out. Put it back together and MAN, the mid range really picked up. It also seemed to run a little cooler (around the 175F range). Problem is that when i roll off the throttle it bogs down to about 900RPM and then dies. If i keep on the gas, it does just fine. additionally, when on hills, it dies when i get to a stop on a hill (san francisco). Thinking that this is the float. Can anyone steer me in the right direction about the bogging and dying on hills when the throttle is off? It did not do this before the adjustment of the needle, float and fuel screw. I read that 55 is pretty rich for a pilot jet on this carb/bike. Seems most people run 45-48 pilot jet. My main is also pretty lean looking at 160 when most seem to be up in the 175-185 range. Thoughts?
  16. Hi, have an 84 pe 175 and really struggling getting the bike to run properly. Carb was thick with crud, so replaced the pilot and main jet, along with the needle valve assembly. Set the needle midway and mix at one and half turns out. Didn’t run great and raised the needle clip up to lean it out, and 2 and half turns on mixture. Runs ok, but does have a flat spot from close throttle to full open and is dumping fuel back into the box and leaving a puddle. And I can’t understand why. As I said replaced the usual suspects, checked the float and level and all seems good. And although the carb looks good, can’t determine if this worn out, Reed valves or I’m Just being stupid? Any advice would really help, as its doing my nut. Cheers
  17. I was wondering where could I buy the main (158) and the pilot jet (48) for my rm 250 2001?
  18. Hey guys, long time fan of the forum, but first time poster. I have a 2001 Yamaha YZ426F with what appears to be an aftermarket Keihin carburetor. The numbers stamped on the bowl are 5BE1 01MK02. I cannot figure out what "model" carb this is. It does not appear to be the factory carb due to the lack of a hot start. Does anyone know where I can find this information? I need a new gasket on the bowl, and it's been very frustrating dealing with my local bike shops. I attached a couple of pictures of the carb in question. Thanks in advance for any and all help! This site has been a great resource for many years. If I have posted this in the wrong section please let me know so I can correct it.
  19. Hey guys, I could really use some group wisdom here. Thank you in advance for your advice. I'm at sea level, if you need to factor that in to your opinion. I really hope Dave can chime in here. I bought a 2001 XR650L with no body/frame damage, good tires/wheels, lithium battery upgrade, smog removed, and an FMF pipe on it a few months ago with 6000 miles on it. It had been sitting for a long time and it ran ok, but not great. I paid $3000 for it, and in hindsight that was probably too much- but we can't change that now. When I say it ran ok, I mean it started but only with a lot of choke and would die trying to gently let the clutch out in 1st with no throttle. While accelerating under full throttle it would act like it was bumping off a rev limiter at about 2/3 rpm then regain power after a few hiccups. Like most guys, I thought my mechanical skills could fix anything. So I put new fuel in it, changed the spark plug, oil/filter/oil screen, set the exhaust valves at 0.004 and intake at .005, removed the air snorkel, swapped the stock paper air filter for a Uni one, cleaned the carb, replaced the 50/152 jets to 55/158, and set the idle air/fuel mixture screw properly which is was at about 2.5 turns. After doing all that, the bike ran a bit better. It barely needs any choke to start now, it has considerably more power, but still "hiccups" or "hesitates" under full throttle at about 70% through the RPM range. Here's the kicker- the full throttle hiccup at 2/3 through the RPM range problem is 100% gone if I take the air filter off (I only did this twice for 1/2 mile each time, in a non-dusty area). If I leave the side plastic cover off the air box but leave the air filter on, the problem is about 50% gone. To me, that seems to imply that it's running too rich because a greater amount of air (leaning it) fixes the problem. But I can hardly believe that is the answer because the same problem occurred with 50/152 jetting- which is almost universally believed to be too lean- especially at sea level. I'm leaning toward drilling some more holes in the top of the air box to help it breathe, but that seems to not fix the root problem. There are TONS of XR650Ls without swiss cheese air boxes that run great. If y'all don't have some magic advice, I'll probably just buy a full carb rebuild kit, a new fuel filter, and a needle shim to see if that fixes it. If that doesn't make it better- I still have a 165 jet that I can use. Thanks in advance.
  20. My 2008 yz450f is running really lean. I know this because it has hanging rpms and it pops and bangs a lot, lot of backfire especially on deceleration. It barely idles and when I slow down and twist the throttle to get going agin I dies. The jetting spec for my bike with my DRD exhaust is 165 main 45 pilot 4 needle position. These settings and setting close to them do not work. I have gone all the way up to 52 sized pilot and the bike still seems to run lean. Tried all fuel screw positions also.
  21. Hello, I have a Gilera Runner 2T 180 Malossi Kit scooter using stage6 32mm carburettor, stage6 intake manifold and malossi VL13 reeds. It runs good but after a while the spark plug gets wet and refuses to start. If i take the spark plug out and clean it then it runs again but keeps getting wet. I tried using a smaller main jet but then it gets bogged by too much air and it still gets the spark plug wet. I’m currently using jet size 138 and it runns good full open throttle I also tried replacing the spark plug but its still getting foulded I also tried using the original reed valve with new malossi reeds which is smaller than the malossi vl13 and it gets worse. Carb is spitting vape fuel and it bogs out even at half throttle. When i take the carb out, i can see fuel inside intake manifold and reeds are all wet in both cases. Do you think the reed valve is too small? If so, which one do you recommend? Thank you!
  22. Finally bought some jets suggested by someone. I had stock jetting before that was lean from the factory and had erratic idle and throttle was either ok or starved. Had a 42 pilot 112 main and 110 secondary. I went with the suggestion 45 pilot 130 main and leave secondary as is. Pilot helped a hell of a lot with idle and starting but now I am too rich I believe in the main just a 1/8 to 1/4 blip of throttle and she wants to cut out. So should I split the difference on my main and go 120? Any advice is appreciated.
  23. Hey everyone. I recently got my 2004 rmz250 back up and running however I’m having an issue with the bike bogging when I go over rough bumps, or popping up the front tire. If I’m riding on flat land the bike runs perfect with no issues. When the bike bogs over bumps it feels like a lean bog, engine isn’t firing. Thinking float height maybe? Although the float height seemed fine when I reassembled the bike but I did not look too closely. Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks
  24. I've heard if you put VForce Reeds, properly jet your carb and clean the carb, change the exhaust pipe, clean the airbox and put a new air filter, and properly fix the shocks to match your weight, you can gain a ton of power?
  25. Hey guys. I'm having a difficult time getting my bike running right. I have the original drz, the "k" series, kickstart only. I just got this bike off Craigslist so I'm not 100% familiar with it but I will do my best to describe what's going on. It has a fcr39 carb, open air box ( not the 3x3 mod) full open yoshimura exhaust, cams from the e model, a k&n filter, a small stroker kit. My pipe was blue and bike is backfiring. Obviously running really lean. I am at 860 ft. Above sea level. I opened the carb up and saw the previous owner had a 60 pilot, 190 main, and the needle was at setting 5. I knew this was wrong, but I'm not an expert. I need a jet kit, I'm having a very hard time finding a kit for the bike, since it makes more power than most stock bikes, With all the power adders on this thing. Can anyone please help me, I just want to ride!
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