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Found 21 results

  1. dannyrg85

    Should I replace factory jets?

    Hey guys, out of curiosity what are your opinions on stock jets vs aftermarket (jd jetting). I was also considering a 3*3 mod on the airbox. Are both of these things worth the time/money for the performance?
  2. hi yall. so i bought my first yam a couple weeks ago. i'm not new to bikes, or carbs, or kickstarts... but am having a few issues with getting this thing up and running. it's a 2001 yz250f, it sat for about 4 years before i got it. PO says he used to run it a ton, loved it, but then it stopped kicking on him and he just garaged it. so, being that it's not my first resto project, i started with the basics. drained and filled oil - replaced filter, noticed some metal, but have heard that can be somewhat normal. drained and filled coolant. drained old gas. replaced air filter - pre oiled. removed carb and meticulously cleaned it, as it was gummed up something terrible - went through with carb cleaner and forced air through all jets and passageways, then let it soak overnight - and set everything to stock. the PO says everything on the bike was stock. replaced the cr9e plug with the oem cr8e ngk plug. bled the brakes. lubed the chain. air in the tires. day one = tired, done. so once i got it all back together, i filled it up with 91 gas from the station. petcock on, float bowl filled, even tested the AP to make sure it was squirting properly with the slide up (not hitting it on the up stroke or down, but in the middle - its maybe a .5sec duration, but good flow i think). tested the spark plug on the head and cranked the kickstart, got a good strong spark, so i assume cdi/coil is good. at this point i've left the airbox and filter off so i can make sure carb is doing its job. i've set the pilot air screw at 2 turns out. i've got the idle screw about 1 1/2 turns out, just enough to raise the slide maybe 1/16 inch. so, using the cold start lever out, hot start in, two quick WOTs for the AP, pushing the kickstarter til it hits the comp stroke, then pull in the decomp lever, push the ks down about an inch, then give it strong kick - repeat about 30 times - no firing, but i can hear the compression taking place. so i hold in the decomp lever, kick a few times, got a backfire in the pipe and even a lil sputter like it wants to start... so i start the process again, kick about 20 times and finally get the bike to turn over and start! i let it run for about 4 minutes, sounds a lil high on the revs, but figure that is bcuz its still on choke. so, i push the cold start in, and the bike immediately bogs and dies. so i try to kick it over again... about 30 more kicks and it still wont start... hold in decomp, kick a bunch more, another backfire and sputter, and start over... kick it a bunch more and it finally starts up again... let it run about 10 minutes this time, still a lil high idle, but purring beautifully. i can use the throttle to rev it up, sounds great. i can even pull out the hot start and get it to rev up too, push it in and it revs down and holds steady. so, i think maybe its warmed up and ready to idle naturally... push the cold start in, and the bike immediately dies again... day two = tired, done. i pull it all apart, clean the carb top to bottom, blew out the jets and passageways, meticulously inspect and tune to oem as best i can. put it back together and go through starting process again. same results... its hard as hell to get started. pulled the plug, seems fine, just a touch of oil on the seat, not much of a gas smell, still get great spark on testing on head. after another 2 hours of kicking and tinkering with the pilot screw and idle, i can get the bike to kick over for a few minutes at a time with choke on... but soon as i push in cold start, bike dies. i can literally push it in, then pull it back out really quick and the revs stumble, but pick back up and run. i can push the cs in, and throttle it up really high for a short time, but if i try to let it idle, nope, it dies. day three = tired, done... oh, i repeated this damn day for about three more days with similar results. i'm just having a hell of a time getting it to start at all, and it refuses to run without the cs pulled out. i'll list all my jets info below, and see if anyone has any tips. i have not cracked the case or head yet, and really dont have the tools to do so. i have read that the valves can be out of spec, but i dont have calipers to even check them, let alone shim them properly i'm really hoping i can just tweak the carb or something else to get it starting at least easier and running. Main Jet - 178 Pilot Jet - 40 Starter Jet - 72 Main Air Jet - 200 Pilot Air Jet - 100 Valve Jet - 38 Leak Jet - 105 Needle - OBELP (clip 3rd from top) Pilot screw - 2 turns out Idle screw - 1 1/2 turns out AP screw - .5 sec duration stock everything else on bike i'm in texas, 400-500ft elevation, its 85-95*F lately Thanks for any help yall can provide. Let me know if any other info is needed. Here's a few pics of the process so far... it was ugly after 4 years of sitting. i've got a short video of it running, but havent figured how to upload it yet.
  3. Hello, today I started to do further research on my issue. I have a 04 yz250f and I feel as if it’s overheating I say this because when the bike is in nuetral coasting or idle coolant flows out the overflow. So now I’m pretty sure I know what’s wrong and it’s that I’m too lean the bike backfires on deceleration but the throttle response is perfect. Also, the motor seems to remain at high rpms after the clutch is engaged. I took the carb apart and this is what I found. (I do trail riding, I know the radiators are getting enough air flow I’m not going slow enough for that to be the issue that’s what I think at least) Main jet—178 pilot jet-72 Jet needle groove position-4th down Pilot Screw Adjustment- The bike stays running at about 2 turns out but to have more throttle control best would be 3-3.5 basically all the way out. P.s I’m not very familiar with these carbs so if you can leave some information on how theses things work and what I should do, the bike starts up first kick clutch engages every time the bike just gets extremely hot.
  4. Grady Harrington

    '08 KLX 450r "best mods to have"

    New to Thumper and new to the '08 KLX 450r. I purchased this bike a few months ago. It was showroom condition. Took it to a very reliable mechanic that I've known for years and he said that the bike probably had less than 10 hours on it. Speedo/tach/hour meter computer no longer worked. Previous owner said he bought it from a dealer new in crate 4 years ago (hard to believe I know) and that he was the only one that rode it. Dealer was saving for himself. Probably hiding it from the IRS or something. Previous owner said he was selling it because he never rode it, parts would be hard to come buy, value was dropping because it's not available in the US anymore and he didn't won't to deal with it. If it means anything, he was in his late 50's. I also took it to a local dealer mechanic and he said the same thing my mechanic said. Based on the condition of the bike and what everyone said about it, I couldn't resist and dropped $4,000 on it. Maybe a little to high for a bike that old, but based on the condition, good reviews and how easy it is to work on, I figured it would be a reliable bike that I could trail ride on for a few years. It's a little heavy, especially carrying my fat ass around. I'm 6 ft pushing close to 300 lbs and 47. What are the basic first mods that everyone does, what mods are recommended in conjunction with other mods to get the best performance out of. Seller included a Jd jet kit just never installed it. What brand of mods is the best to get. I realize that I could search here and there through the forums, but just would like a list on one posting. Sorry about that, but thanks for your input and advise in advance.
  5. So, This really isn't too much of an issue, but I have a 75 Suzuki RV125. I bought a rebuild kit (keyster) from Sirius consolidated in Canada. I couldn't find another rebuild kit anywhere except there. Have done business with them before and have been happy. The issue I ran into - upon pulling the old carb apart, I noticed the pilot and main jets that were in there did not match what the OEM manual said is stock. The rebuild kit also had jets that did not match. I want to say off the top of my head, the installed pilot was a 20, the kit came with a 30, and the manual calls for a 25. The screw wasn't set to the stock setting (it was turned in richer and about 1/2 turn from seated) so I did go with the slightly larger pilot in hopes to get the screw to a more in-between location instead of almost seated. The main - I had a 110 installed. The manual calls for a 92.5 I believe and the rebuild kit came with an 85... I left that completely alone and left the 110 in since the bike was running fine and the issues I was having was likely a leaking left hand crank seal. I was really confused by all of this and went to bike bandit and here: http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3a2d6f8700229982f4f9a/carburetor and noticed that even the parts diagrams calls for many optional jets.... Can anyone lend some insight as to what would actually be stock? As a side note - I ordered the left hand cover gaskets from my local shop because they had some on hand - but their computer system didn't even show a RV125...I lucked out and since the TC125 shares the same engine, they were able to get the gaskets... Maybe I need a newer bike
  6. Like I said I have a 2008 KTM 450 exc. I live in Southern California along the coast in Dana Point. Riding is almost entirely all desert. So far average altitude is maybe 1-3k pretty much sea level to about 5000 ft is where I normally take it. Whenever I blip the throttle when stationary the bike dies. I’m trying to put some money into the bike to release some more power. I’ve gotten lots of recommendations: jd jetting, new exhaust system, gearing, suspension etc. so I want to get this throttle problem fixed with the right parts. Anybody care to point me in the right direction if jetting or jetting/exhaust is the problem for me ?
  7. I have a 2004 Yamaha WR250F that the previous owner modified and the bike doesn’t run the way it should. It has an FMF muffler with an aftermarket pipe coming from the engine. There’s no other silencers or restrictions in the exhaust. When I got the bike, it was backfiring every time I let off the throttle no matter what speed I was doing. When the previous owner first started the bike, part of the exhaust pipe was cherry red while he was warming it up by giving it more throttle. I took the carburetor apart and found out that I have a 178 main jet, 40 pilot jet, and 72 leak jet. The needle clip was in the middle in the 4th position. I adjusted the fuel screw back to the 1.5 turns out position from the 3.5 turns out position the previous owner had it set at. I changed out the pilot jet to a 45 and the bike no longer backfires while I ride it but it does die when I leave it to idle. Sometimes it dies immediately after letting off the throttle and other times it will idle for a minute or two before dying. Now before this gets too confusing, I ran the bike with the fuel screw at 1.5 turns out and 3.5 turns out after changing the pilot jet. At 1.5 turns out, the bike would only run when choked and would die when idling. At 3.5 turns out, the bike will run with the choke off but will still die when idling. If anyone has any suggestions to try, please let me know.
  8. Had top end rebuilt with stage1 cam and we rejetted the carb and all good but then I put a new pipe DG pipe on and now it pops/backfires on deceleration.. I heard its too lean.. Current jets are55/158which worked fine until the new pipe.. Is it a jetting issue? Pulling plug later to take a look but its runs great..
  9. Hi guys, I recently got a 2015 250 XC-W, which came with the original jetting, and that I need to re-jet to accommodate altitude here in Colorado, as most of the riding I do is between 7500-1000 ft. I have no experience at all in jetting bikes, as I have always ridden at sea level before, so I'm trying to figure out what's the best choice I can pick from what's out there, or at least the ones I'm aware of. Having this said, I have been trying to decide between two choices 1. Get a JDJetting Kit 2. Get the Original KTM Needle and Jets that are recommended on the owner's manual. Without reading anything or getting any kind of insight, my first impression was, ok, if KTM is making the ones that I need, it would make more sense to get those as the actual manufacturer is making them, but based on what I have been seeing on some sites, seems like the JD ones might even be a better choice, but I was not able to define what makes them better, and if that's actually the case, so wanted to get your thoughts on it. Thanks
  10. I purchased a new yz250x and have only about 4-5 rides on it. Last weekend it was running good then the engine just quit. Checked the plug and it was fouled and seems to be running rich. Was wondering if anyone had some tips on what I should do. Change jet? Change fuel ratio? Currently running 40:1
  11. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  12. So just a quick question... I recently acquired an 86 XL250R and when I was taking apart the carbs I noticed there was no pilot jet in the secondary carb. The primary one has a #42 jet in it and so I was wondering if they had different pilot jets and where I could get them. I tried eBay, Amazon, and RMATVMC and didn’t find what I needed. Thanks, Connor
  13. So I'm trying to tune my Crf150R which i believe has a FCR carb. Also i need a large collection of Pwk/Fcr jets for a project I'm doing. I'm talking at minimum a set of 32 jets in different sizes. Anybody know where to get a large set of main/pilot jets and even needles for a cheap price. I've looked at EBC jet sets but I'm not keen on spending 130$ on it. I've also looked at chinese jets and while they are really cheap I've also heard they are beyond sub-par quality. Anybody got recommendations or thoughts or anything on this subject? Not much online except small jet kits for 1 bike.
  14. Greetings I recently purchased a 2010 ktm 250 xcfw champions edition. (aren't all 2010s champions editions?) I am having a few issues with fuel and coolant that may be related. Relevant modifications: Previous owner had installed a quick shot 3, and an FMF F4.1, but claimed the bike had stock jetting (more on this later). Also claimed the bike got new piston and rings recently. First ride went mostly well. Exception being the bike needed an exceptionally long time (several minutes of riding with choke on) to warm up before it would idle with the choke off. Is that normal? That and I think the silencer was more of a loudener and practically made my ears bleed after a few hours. For the second ride I installed the factory silencer for everyone's sake and assumed the jetting would be fine since previous owner claimed it was stock. Bike ran fine until I came to a stop and noticed quite a bit of steam rolling out of the crank case vent hose.... Assuming the head gasket just went, I shut the bike off and called it quits. So I ordered and installed a new head gasket and lower cylinder gasket. Piston looked pretty new and so did the gaskets. I also could not find a "bad" spot on either gasket where coolant was making its way into the oil/crankcase. Here's where I may have messed up. When reinstalling the timing chain tensioner, I don't think it properly "clicked" back into place because the bike would not run after reassembly. I pulled the valve cover to find the exhaust cam had skipped 1 tooth. So I reset that and was more aggressive with the tensioner and got it to properly seat. Bike fired right up and seemed to be ok compression wise. I put new oil in, rode it for 5 minutes and then changed it again to somewhat flush out the coolant contaminates. Does anyone think the piston struck any valves if they were only 1 tooth off? Wouldn't I have heard them clank together when trying to start it or felt the extra resistance when kicking it over? (Bad battery at the time so no electric start) Took it out for a third ride with new head gasket and fresh oil and it seemed harder to start and wouldn't idle properly with or without choke. After gently riding it for several minutes it would still not run properly. It had a surging idle and would sporadically die. If throttle was applied it would sometimes respond or sometimes die. Then I noticed the steam beginning to exit the crank case vent hose again. It seemed to run ok anywhere above 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. Great power response and felt smooth. Anything less and it was dying or surging up and down. So I installed a new water pump shaft seal, and side cover gasket hoping that was the cause of the coolant leak. Then I went after the carb to see if something had become clogged. A complete disassembly and cleaning revealed a surprisingly clean carb with the following jets: #172 main jet, #45 idle jet, and #85 starter jet. Needle jet clip was on the 5th position from the bottom. Nothing seemed to be clogged or malfunctioning. I inspected the intake boots for cracks/leaks and everything seemed to be fine there. After reassembly there was no improvement. I then tried every combination of air screw and qs3 adjustment possible which didn't seem to even phase it. The only thing different I noticed is after several minutes of poorly running and attempting to tune it, if I put the choke back on it would almost instantly begin to rev up uncontrollably high until I turned the choke back off. And then to top it off I still have steam coming out of the crank case vent. I'm hoping the steam is somehow leftover coolant from before and not something like a cracked head or anything. I gave the head a good look over when I had it off for the head gasket but I wasn't really looking for cracks back then. Any ideas on where to go next? Could these issues somehow be related? Sorry for the giant wall of text but if you made it this far thank you. Any thoughts, ideas, jokes are welcome.
  15. BlindDude

    Recent purchase of xr650r

    Hello all, been here a long time ago when I had my 2003 xr650r. I had to sell that one a few years back and I have aquired a 2002 xr650r. My 2003 had a powerbomb header and fmf pipe. I am going to purchase a header and pipe for this 2002 but want to know your opinions about if I should go with FMF for the header and pipe? Any other suggestions? Best combo for uncorking? I plan to uncork it ASAP. So I will need a jet kit or maybe I can get away with spending less on a kit if someone knows the exact size jets I would need for full uncork and 6000' elevation? Also need a rear rack. I had a Baja designs rack before and I really liked it. Any others worth mentioning to me? Need buddy pegs. I ordered some before but dont remember brand or where I got them. They did the job and tucked up pretty nice. Anything there? I've seen some 650r's with the side panel that covers the air cleaner having holes in them. Are these homemade or does someplace sell them? My 2003 was never uncorked so what should I be expecting when doing that? I appreciate any and ALL info you guys can provide. Links welcome. I am in the USA Southwest NM. Thanks all. and GO BRP!!!
  16. I have a 1995 cr250 freshly rebuilt top and bottom end. It starts great, but won't stay idling unless the choke is on, revs up and down rapidly. My elevation is about 4462 feet above sea level. I used a 52 main jet, and a 168 slow jet and needle clip position in the 2nd position from the top. Are these the wrong jets or do I have an air leak? My over flow tube has a slow drip only when the bike is not running, Like the float is to high a bit. Two turns out on air mix screw.
  17. Hey! I'm working on jetting my kx250f for high altitudes - it originated at almost sea level and I live at 8k. I'm on the needle and ran into some confusion upon taking the old needle out. It is almost twice as long as the nedles in the jd kit I have. Do I not have the right needles to replace rhis with or is it ok to switch these out even though they are different lengths? Thanks
  18. I just bought a 2012 xr650l and it starts and runs great until about 4000 rpm give or take (I’m guessing) it feels like it spits and pukes. Also when releasing the throttle the exhaust pops and hiccups. I am calling the dealership to ask if they are willing to fix the problem as I just purchased from them yesterday but I am curious as to what the problem could be in case they do not offer to help for my “as is” purchase. I have read a couple other topics on here that talk about the vacuum lines being hooked up to an air cut diaphram but I don’t know what that is. The smog delete has been done on this bike as well as a slip on dg exhaust and the side cover has a bunch of holes drilled in it exposing the air filter. The battery has also been relocated. My question is what jetting should I have at 2000 feet? I am planning on opening up the carb to see what the idle jet and main jet are and if they were even changed from stock. Also if someone knows about the air cut being hooked up to vacuum and can supply pictures that would be very helpful. I know that the smog block off kits just plug the vacuum holes and the air cut usually gets disconnected. Thanks.
  19. Hi people, My bike (2009 Husqvarna wr250) has been running like a dog lately. It won't hit band when its cold and it's just generally not running like it should. I took my reeds out and there is a slight light gap between some of them, roughly .07mm gap. It's not a huge gap but I'm not sure if there's meant to be a tolerance of some sort as it does not state such a thing in the workshop manual. From what I know reeds should be dead flat with no light gap at all. However, I will be replacing them just in case. Some people who I have spoken to have advised making sure thet the carburettor jetting is set to standard. I have the Husqvarna workshop manual and have found the "standard jetting". Problem is it's just a whole heap of numbers and codes so I have literally no idea what it means. The only thing I understand on it is that the pilot jet should be set on the second slot which it already is. I was hoping someone on here could make sense of it. I have attached images of the husqvarna manual jetting information. Thanks for the help in advance -Ryan
  20. farnorthdriver

    Carb fuel removal for long storage??

    A couple times I've had to mothball my bike for almost a year. Each time I drained the fuel from the carb. However, each time upon resurrecting my bike, it ran poorly and upon checking the carb I found the usual culprit, the pilot jet, clogged --despite having drained the fuel bowl. My theory is that even after draining the bowl, there is still fuel in/around the pilot jet and when this fuel is left to dry out it leaves some tiny amount of residue behind that is enough to gum up that incredibly small pilot hole. If I could somehow blow air through all the tiny passages in the carb (ie the pilot jet) after draining the fuel bowl I could eliminate this issue. Does any body know where on the carb I could push air into such that it will blow through the pilot jet and any other small passages? --And this would be with the carb on the bike; if I have to take the carb off or otherwise dismantle it, it would defeat the purpose. I'm looking to do this whole procedure quickly without needing to remove the carb. Thanks.
  21. Caleb Barger

    Minuki pumper carb running lean?

    I can't really tell, is this looking lean or rich?
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