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Found 34 results

  1. Hi Guys, New to the forum (I am one of the audio guys on a famous Harley forum - same forum name) I am at a loss at this point in time... I am pretty savvy from a mechanical perspective, did my research, etc etc. Need bike (2005 WR250F - Keihin CRF carb) running smooth for trip july 10th with bro. So the basics: - based in Las Vegas (~2500ft above sea level) - carb is CLEAN, spark plug at .6mm, clean new air filter - float set to 8-9 mm - starts up without an issue - got manual adjustable A/F needle - set to 2 -2.5 turns out (@ 2.5 seems to run a tad better) - jetting: Pilot #42, Main #175, leak jet #95! (high compared to stock according documentation) - Needle I cannot find a code on it - EDIT: needle clip in the middle on position 4. Symptoms: + stationary - starts and runs fine + upping throttle to 1/3 RPMs increase "smoothly" + full throttle: hits the RPM limiter so IMO no issue - Quick WOT > bogs (I believe that is what you call it) and dies (I can live with that, but not the next one) - I fiddled with the accelerator Pump timing at tad, keeping track of the original setting; did not seem to get rid of the WOT issue. - 1/3 - 3/4 throttle : it ?surges?... I mean RPMs go up and down in like 2-3 times per second (this is all not loaded so in the garage; When riding bike has the same behavior) when reading articles on the web and youtube's, it "points" to the main needle, right? or perhaps the leak jet is way too big...? I appreciate your help/comments/suggestions... If need be I can shoot a video...
  2. banditorama

    XR650l FCR 40 jetting problems

    I've been trying to work out this low speed jetting issue for a while now and am running into some weird problems. It seems like most of the bikes I see with this mod are running either a 42 or 45 pilot and now I'm sitting at a 55 and still having lean running issues. The bike will cough through the carb at less than 3 turns under 1/4 throttle on fuel screw. Above 3 turns it will run fine off idle but the idle sometimes hangs. As the bike sits it's running 55 pilot, 85 pilot air jet, ELT needle (NCVT equivalent) three clips from the bottom, and 165 main jet. Above 1/4 throttle the bike runs like a champ and pulls hard throughout the rpms/throttle position. With the 55 pilot I can set the fuel screw ~3 turns out and I won't get any cough back through the carb under 1/4 throttle but it has problems with the idle hanging intermittently. Anything above 3 turns out and the idle starts to drop and the bike will stall. I'm around 500 above sea level. Carb has a new vacuum release plate o-ring, completely cleaned out, hot start air ports rtv'ed shut, rd powerbowl 2. Another thing is I bought the carb missing the whole tps sensor (might be an issue) but I tested the open part where it should be by spraying propane at the opening and had no change in idle speed. I've got a 58 pilot on order but it just seems like that's big compared to everyone else. Any advice would be appreciated!
  3. Charles L'Abri Anderson

    xr650r fcr41 bog

    Hey all, I have got some carb trouble. I have been riding around my 2001 xr650r on roadtrips for about a year. Mostly up in northern california in the winter where its cold. With my FCR41 ive always had the issue where if i leave the petcock on, it wont start due to flooding. The bike runs great, just I have to turn off the petcock when doing ANYTHING.. like stopping to piss .. ANYTHING. I was on a recent trip through Arizona and Nevada a few weeks back and noticed that it was running super super hot. It was 115F outside, but the bike hit 250F on the vegas strip. Ive got a TT Vapor on there, so I am monitoring the water off the block. I have engine ice in it and a 1:8 cap. I figured with these two issues, its time to mess around with the carb. I pulled it apart and found that ive got a 160 main jet, 55 pilot jet and an OCEMP jet needle. The Needle clip was on 3/7 (from the top of the needle). So I set the needle clip to 5/7 and adjusted the float a tad leaner (its supposed to be 9mm). I also set the fuel screw to 2 turns out. Put it back together and MAN, the mid range really picked up. It also seemed to run a little cooler (around the 175F range). Problem is that when i roll off the throttle it bogs down to about 900RPM and then dies. If i keep on the gas, it does just fine. additionally, when on hills, it dies when i get to a stop on a hill (san francisco). Thinking that this is the float. Can anyone steer me in the right direction about the bogging and dying on hills when the throttle is off? It did not do this before the adjustment of the needle, float and fuel screw. I read that 55 is pretty rich for a pilot jet on this carb/bike. Seems most people run 45-48 pilot jet. My main is also pretty lean looking at 160 when most seem to be up in the 175-185 range. Thoughts?
  4. idratherberiding

    KLX450 FCR Carb Setup

    2008 KLX450, FMF power bomb header, FMF Powercore 4 muffler, Desmogged, Air box top off 1000'-3000' altitude. 40 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Humid during summer I ordered the KX NCVR needle. What clip position should I put it to? Had a 155 Main jet, seems way too lean. Should I go 165 or 170? Have a 42 and a 45 pilot, not sure which to use with NCVR needle. What leak jet should I run for best throttle response/least bog? Currently have size 50 leak jet, I'm guessing it's stock as it has the Keihin star symbol next to the number. Float is at manual recommended measurement. Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks
  5. No Coast Rider

    Sticking throttle on 02 CR125

    Hi all, long time lurker first time poster. Hoping someone can help me out with an issue on my beloved 02 CR125. I bought the bike last year as a total basket case and made a winter restoration project out of it. Got it looking and running pretty good. Bike has cylinder porting, V Force Reeds, Keihin PWK air striker carb w/JD kit, FMF Fatty and Turbine Core exhaust. Otherwise it's mechanically stock. I only ride MX with it. I put my first 20 hours on the bike after the overhaul pretty much without incident. Then one day I opened the carb to lean out my jetting, went to the local practice track and on my first lap on the first big tabletop the throttle stuck wide open in 3rd gear I crashed pretty hard shortly after landing and hurt my knee which cost me a month off the bike. I blamed it on a worn out throttle tube and the carb spring grommet not being properly aligned, so I replaced the throttle tube and fixed the spring. did another 13 hours on the bike and it ran fine, no more issues. Late July I put in a new piston and changed my jetting again to prepare for a race. Did a few practice laps and the bike worked fine. Then during my first Moto on the fourth lap I went off a ledge jump into some big braking bumps, throttle stuck again through the bumps and I went over the bars, me and the bike got pretty beat up, cost me another three weeks off the bike. When I went to pick up the bike it was still revving at full throttle. This time I replaced the throttle tube with one of those metal ones with the bearing at the end, new throttle cable, and a new carb return spring. Rode it around my yard and it worked fine. Went to my local practice track and once again, first lap, same tabletop as the first time, throttle sticks open, this time I was ready for it and pulled in the clutch. Brought the bike to a stop and it it kept revving off the limiter. I could move the throttle back and forth, but it had no effect on the revving. I opened the throttle all the way to the stop and let it go and it snapped shut and the bike went back to idle. I'm completely lost at this point as to what to do, I've ensured the throttle cable isn't getting pinched anywhere and have replaced everything I can think of. I even put my needle in a drill and spun it, looked straight enough to me. Guy at the dealer suggested an air leak somewhere in the crankcase, but every air leak I've seen makes the engine rev high at idle, but once under load it works relatively normal, just a little lean,this is full power open throttle. When the throttle isn't sticking the bike rips pretty hard, loads of fun. I have a new 17 CRF250R that I've been riding since I'm too scared to get back on my 125, but the 125 is a lot more fun to ride. My wife wants me to sell it, but I can't sell it to someone in this condition, don't want them to get hurt. Every time this has happened I was 3/4-full throttle going off a jump face in third gear, shortly after doing work involving the carburetor that's the only parallel I can draw between all three instances. When I overhauled the bike over the winter I completely rebuilt the carb and it worked fine, so I'm not clueless when it comes to carbs. Does anyone have any other ideas as to what I can change to fix this issue abs get my little ripper going again? Thanks.
  6. So I picked up a pretty beat up 2013 gas gas txt 300 raga replica on Craigslist. It had a lot broken on it but ran, although very rich. It has a Keihin carb. I confused the idle screw and the air fuel screw, and turned the idle screw a few times counter clockwise to try and lean it up. I realized the error, but lost track of how many times I turned the idle screw when I tried to put it back where it was. The air fuel mix was at half turn, so I turned it to 1.5 out which is the default, but the idle is still hanging really high and the idle screw doesn’t seem to have much effect. I don’t really know what to do, is there a default idle rpm or position for the idle adjust? Could something have gotten stuck when I turned the idle adjust? Any help would be great!
  7. I have a 2017 250 XC-W, and after a head and ignition mod, I am pretty happy with the bike. However, I am curious to try the 36mm Keihin off my 2009 200 XC-W. There seems to be plenty of good feedback on this switch and the 36mm may just give the 250 that little bit of extra bottom end that I am after. I still run the old 200 quite a bit as they are just brilliant bikes, it generally take it out in the more gnarly terrain where running out of talent and sending it back down a rock ledge leaves me a little less concerned than the 250. So if I put the Keihin into the 250, I still want to be able to run the 200, hence looking for some feedback on putting the Mikuni on the 200? My 200 has a shaved and reshaped head, sxs hardparts pipe, Akro silencer and the option of running a 125SX CDI. In the 200, I have been running the 36mm Keihin with 40p, JD Red (200 specific triple scribe) #4, 168 main, A/S 1.5. I'm in Sydney Australia and generally run 1000 feet to 3000 feet and temps of 60f to 95f. I generally like to run on the richer side as the 200 is pokey enough but like all small bores needs what ever can help torque wise Any jetting experts care to suggest a baseline to begin with on the Mikuni?
  8. Hi guys, My 2000 cr250r is almost ready. I converted it from OEM to a woodsbike. I'm fiddling with the carb setup to get the bike handling to my likings. First of all the setup: Suzuki NECJ needle, clip on 4th (a NOZH was in when I bought it) 45 pilot 172 main 1.75t out on as #7 slide OEM pipe and silencer (fresh packing) 12oz fww Boyesen power reeds in good condition New topend with 13h on it New crankseals to be sure Sealevel, around 12 degrees Celsius (50F) right now. Bike came with a NOZH needle which was way too rich for woodsriding and the bike smoked all the time riding tight singletracks. I swapped it out with a Suzuki NECJ needle which I read good things about. From what I can feel and hear, this needle seems a little bit too lean on the bottom, because when cold started, the bike bogs a few seconds when turning the throttle, but after 4-5 seconds it's ok. When I ride at 1/8th - 2/8th throttle and crack the gas open, it sputters somewhat (with smoke) and than revs up good (rich?), I'm a little confused here...Rev it up in one time there are no sputters or smoke.The sparkplug is chocolate brown, so the MJ maybe is a little bit on the rich side. So...I read some good stories about the Suzuki RM needles and I think these are the most suitable for my type of riding. Question is...which one? Stick with the NECJ or get a NEDJ / NECW?
  9. 2001 yz250 I need some assistence, first time user. I am new to this, aquired 3 two stroke like new bikes. They really need jetting know how and jets size MAIN JET AND PILOT. AIR SCREW. I will apreciate any help. I am a serious enthisiast with smokers. 2 Tiempo. I want it to clean real nice but im also running wiseco piston and do 30:100 MOTUL 800. Dont know to run the castor mixes? //////// I also have HONDA CR250 2003 with the mikuni and it needs some tunning!!! HAVE NO IDEA
  10. the carb on my 03 yz450f is a keihin mx fcr 39. I know that the old pwk models had a gasket in the body that was not to be removed or soaked because it would ruin the gasket. Should I not soak the body of the fcr 39 in something like berryman? also is the thing underneath the needle valve (the place the valve sits in) suppose to come out? it looks like there is a new one in my kit but i cant get the old one out
  11. TJOENSRACING28

    DRZ FCR39 CONVERSION

    so i picked up 2 (what i believe to be) fcr 39 carbs. the guy said he think they came from a 06-09 Yamaha 450 quad, if i can make them work great! if not then oh well ill resell them. here are the number i pulled from the carbs 5TG1-00SC01 5TG1-00RG01 i know there is a convirsion kit on TT, is that all that would be needed?
  12. Hi Guys, I'm struggling with the pwm 38 carb on the 98 wr250zk. There's a PWK off a 2004 yz250 with the electrical stuff on it. Sorry not sure what it's called. Does anyone know if I can throw this on the wr250zk 1998 and just not plug the electrics in or does this just not work? Problem is a short PWK 38 is $600 Australian and I just don't have the cash for that. I can pickup the 2004 off ebay for about $350. Thanks for any advice. Cheers
  13. Hey! Bike: KX250f Carb: Keihin FCR 37mm So, I took my carb apart to clean and I think I did some damage with the carb cleaner..My slide plate seal was definitely damaged and it seems I may have did something to the slide itself. Hopefully someone in here has some advice. I have a new seal but when installing it I noticed that I cant get the slide to fit back in the carb, even without the seal inserted. I can get it in if I take the slide plate off, but it's too tight with the slide plate on. Did I probably damage the plate? Is there something I can do to fix this outside of ordering new parts? I have heard of people lightly sanding things that were too tight in their carb and was wondering if maybe that would be a good enough route to try. These things are pricey, so if I can fix it somehow I would prefer to try before buying new parts. I don't even know if a new plate would fix the issue. Looks fine to the eye but I know small changes can make a big impact with the carb. Thanks for any advice!
  14. About a year and a half ago, we bought a used 2004 Arctic Cat 400 4x4 Automatic to take as a pit vehicle to races. Didn't want to spend too much on this and also wanted something to tinker with. The previous owner said he couldn't get it started and suspected it needed a new battery. The old air filter had also disintegrated and parts had been sucked into the carburetor. I cleaned the carburetor and replaced the battery and air filter and it started up and ran decently. Now that it was running we found that the carburetor leaked like crazy down onto the starter motor. It seemed to be leaking from the accelerator pump cover. I ordered a carburetor rebuild kit and accelerator pump rebuild kid. Replaced the pilot jet, main jet, leak jet, float bowl gasket, and even went ahead and replaced the bladder in the throttle slide, just in case. I also got new gas lines, petcock, and cleaned out the gas tank. After all of that, it still leaked from the accelerator pump cover, even with the engine off and the petcock in the on position. I then took the carb apart again, sprayed all the jets and passages with carb cleaner and compressed air (without any rubber gaskets or bladders in, of course) and adjusted the float. I also replaced the plastic choke assembly that screws into the carburetor. The threads were slightly stripped and it didn't seem to be seating in the carb very well. Put it back together and it stopped leaking, but now it runs like crap. It has okay throttle response with just a little bit of gas, but about mid to wide open throttle it will die. If I gradually apply the throttle all the way open, it will rev out, but quick throttle blips and it dies. Once it is warmed up, I can take it around the yard, but after about 90 seconds, it backfires on deceleration and dies. Let it sit for a few seconds, start it up and it will run fine for another 90 seconds, then backfire on deceleration and die. I have replaced the starter motor (electric start stopped working and only responded to pull-start). Electric start works fine now. Today I replaced the ignition coil and spark plug. I had read on arcticchat.com that someone else had similar issues and replacing the coil solved their problem. It has not solved mine, though after replacing the coil, it ran well for about 2.5 minutes before backfiring on deceleration and dying. I have no clue where to go from here. It is a Keihin CVK. I have always had good luck getting help on thumpertalk in the dirt bike sections, so I thought maybe someone could help me with this!
  15. troyhaytroy

    DRZ400SM Keihin 39 FCR Jetting

    I have a 2007 DRZ400SM with a gasket and silicon sealed fmf exhaust, q4 muffler, and powerbomb header. It has a Keihin 39 FCR Racing Carb with all the conversion parts, 3x3 mod, and No Toil foam air filter. The bike has stock gearing and I am 155lbs. Everything else drivetrain related is stock, and it has 12,000 miles. I have the JD Jet Kit for this bike and carb. What is the best starting point for jetting setup with this configuration? Main, pilot, needle, air jets, etc. Also, the carb is extremely difficult attaching back to the stock air box. Is there an easier way than trying to pry it in? Thanks!
  16. 1973 Honda XL250 Hi hoping someone out there could share some knowledge with me as I am pretty frustrated. Been working on this project for way too long I want to finished but I am hung up on some poor running and I cant figure it out. Motor wise I have done the top end and valve job, I have good compression. I replaced ignition with a 12v CDI unit from Electrex http://www.vinduronz.com/uploads/1/6/6/4/16643536/stk-205.pdf this provided me much strong spark and no more points no more old style reg/rec Keihin Carb is stock I cleaned and did one of those keyster rebuild kits When bike is cold it takes 10-20 kicks to fire, seems like it takes time for gas to make it thru carb. Been playing with a couple throttle twists during start up seems to help get it going. Once it fires it runs and idles and revs. If I try to use choke idle drops and it wants to die. Spark plug looks sooty/blackish but not super bad to my eyes rich. Take the bike out for a ride, in gear roll on throttle and it completely falls on its face bogs real bad not ride able at all. Put it in neutral and it revs up fine. I have tried to see if I have an airleak using carb cleaner there is only the intake manifold and couldnt find anything. I didnt change jets feel like its more than just a couple jets being off, feels like something big thats off and I am totally missing it. Any help appreciated.
  17. Hi Rmx 250 1998 , I assume it is PWK 38 (Keihin ) any suggestion on jetting the carburetor for most of the time sea level ride (max 700 feet) and average heat of 86F . I googled a bit but couldnt find a clear chart. Will be great if can get a chart or suggestion for Jetting and needles (never did before , rookie!) Thanks
  18. What is this Red Top Jet Needle without any other markings on it? When I bought my 2012 YZ250 a few months back it wasn’t long before I took the carb apart and noticed it had a JN with no markings on it. The only thing I could ID on it was that the top/Head was painted red. I tried replacing the JN with others (EW, EJ, CW) for ID reasons but nothing seem to work as good as the Red Top JN. It just seems to be the magic JN! Need to know for future reference and recommend it to anyone!!!
  19. Uzair Qadir Vance

    Keihin PWK34 in DR250

    Hello Everyone, I have got a DR250 96 Model which is overall in good condition. Engine never opened up. It was running on stock carb which is Mikuni BST33. The carb was not in a good shape though often over flow leakage and mixture got out sync. Even after replacement kit didn't solve the issue. So i thought to buy a new carb. Got this one from AliExpress. I know its a copy but reviews were good so i bought it. Now the thing it after installation. Starting is improved a lot. Idle is fine. No missing there. Top end is fine i don't find any issue there as well. but it misses when i start pulling it from 20% throttle to upward. This missing is only when the bike is running. There is no missing when the bike is standing still. What could be wrong? Need guidance. Idle screw mixture is one turn out. and you can see the float height in one of the picture. The thing i observed it the air intake and out let cylinder of this carb is smaller than the stock BST33 carb. Could that be an issue? how to confirm that bike is getting enough air? i don't know the jetting size as nothing is written on it but spec sheet says that main jet is 145 BST33 had 127.5 main jet. The needle position is at 2nd level from top means fuel is already leaned. if we take it to middle it start giving black smoke on high rev. Suggestions please?
  20. So apparently some mx fcr carbs have removable valve seats and some dont. I didnt know this and just thought mine was really stuck in there so i drilled it out. Was going to replace it anyway. But it turns out that i have the model that is not suppose to have the valve seat removed. or so i think. Is anyone aware of this difference between the same carb. Do you know where i can get another valve seat? its off a 2003 yz450f
  21. ericsXr600R

    EBay New FCR any Good?

    Hey guys, I put a Mikuni TM40 on my XR600R and really like it, but I always wondered if the FCR might be better. I ran across this EBay listing for a new FCR style carburetor. It doesn't show as a Keihin brand. Anybody buy one of these yet? Its a good price but I won't buy if the quality isn't there. I bought another XR and thought I would try an FCR on the new bike so I have one of each. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CRF-450-R-CRF450R-Carburetor-Carb-2002-2008-NEW/122835304977?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Dd8d46407b09b4518913684b5910695aa%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D253192404113&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507 Any input?
  22. Hello all, I have read a couple of threads on swapping the stock DRZ carb with a Keihin FCR 39, but it's primarily for the kits that are sold as new. I recently bought a used Keihin FCR to replace the one on my 2002 DRZ 400. The FCR was supposedly taken off a parted-out DRZ and I had the option of testing it before purchase, but without any disassembly (Seller marked bolts with silicone), meaning I could not check the setup. Surely enough, the carb came with the the necessary adapters to the engine and airboot, I already have an aftermarket plastic tank with non-vacuum petcock, so i installed and bike fired-up right away. The bike was idling fine but would bog from idle when opening up the throttle more vigorously. I had read that incorrect setup would lead to this, so i was satisfied that the carb was working and went ahead to buy it and open it up. Now i have a couple of issues preventing me from completing the final installation: 1. The throttle cables are too long. In the guides i have been reading it says the stock cables will work fine but not the case for me. Perhaps it's the combination of me having an older model Mikuni and older model Keihin, but even with bringing the housing as far out as possible, there is still 1-1.5cm (~1/2 inch) slack, which is totally unusable for riding. Unless i have made a serious error somewhere, it seems I need to get a shorter cables. Is there any difference between model years I should take into account? I can also get it custom made. 2. I attribute bogging to incorrect setup. I currently have an OBDXP needle with pin on 6th groove, 165 main jet, 200 main air jet and 60 secondary air. I didn't find the pilot jet but later saw that it was probably hidden under white housing and i needed to remove the bottom of the carb bowl(see pic). I suspect the carb was from a stock DRZ 400E, meaning flatside keihin and unaltered setup and probably has a 45 pilot jet. My bike has an open Leo Vinci exhaust and I will probably cut a 3x3 hole in the airbox in place of the snorkel. The bike is ridden usually at 1000-4000ft. If what I have cannot be used, what are the recommendations for the needle and jets to get rid of the bog? 3. On the choke side of the carb there is a something i think is called a coast enrichener. Is some hose supposed to be connected to top part running parallel to the fuel line (visible on attached pic)? Further to that, if the bog is still present after potential re-jetting, should this enrichener be removed from the carb? 4. There is a TPS on the carb, should I plug it into the bike connector? Many thanks in advance, Val
  23. idratherberiding

    FCR CARB TUNING

    Seeing some videos on 70 vs 35 leak jet. What is the best accelerator pump setting for crisp throttle response, no bogging when you twist throttle fast as you can? Right now my screw that touches the black accelerator arm is only out 2 threads. There is lots of play on the black plastic arm in the opposite direction. Here's some pics and video of the current setup. Thanks
  24. ClutchinChrisG

    slant FCR mid-body gasket replacement

    I've decided to attempt the mid-body gasket replacement on my vintage 2000 slant FCR carb, stock on the DRZ 400 E. If you are like me you have scoured the forums for info on doing this service but found maybe 2 or 3 pictures of a taken apart FCR, dead end threads, and tons of negativity. BUT! Is it really that difficult of a repair to perform correctly? Well I have had my carb on and off at least a dozen times, trying different jets, cleaning, etc. For the last 3 years I've been getting by with the coast enrichener circuit bypassed to at least get enough fuel in the idle circuit to run ok. But it just wasn't working anymore. I could clean the carb out and get it to run for a little while, but after sitting it wouldn't start again. I tried ordering a refurb FCR-MX over a week ago and the guy has gone MIA and nothing shipped. I ordered from keihin-fcr.com. I would advise avoiding... But will update if I hear back and he has a decent reason for the delay. Anyways, it made me seriously look into the "unserviceable" midbody gasket. I mean, you can buy the gasket here: https://www.ebay.com/i/401380298480?chn=ps So today I ripped the carb apart again, but this time to the very last fastener, separating the carb bodies. I even found my smoking gun, in the one picture with the hoop thingy removed you can see the gasket has expanded and spilled into a passageway. This passageway leads directly to the pilot jet, blocking it's flow. Though as you can see every rubber piece inside is completely trashed. Which makes sense, do you really expect these gaskets to last 20 years? Or in this case 18? If you have taken apart your FCR and went, wow that fuel bowl gasket is recked yo! I need a new one! Well you can bet your mid-body gasket looks the same. Really I see no reason I couldn't get this sealed back up with a new gasket and some fuel-proof RTV to replace the epoxy seal around the edge. Why wouldn't it work? Just doesn't make sense to me all the negativity you find toward this repair.... But I haven't finished yet so who knows if it will actually work on the bike. But I think it'll run like new when I'm done. I hope it works out for me and I can inspire some others who would otherwise be forced to buy an 800 dollar carb to do this repair instead. Wish me luck!
  25. I recently moved my 2006 DRZ400E from Richmond, Virginia to Denver, Colorado. I have no idea what the current jetting is but I know that it was jetted richer from stock in Virginia and is to the point it is fouling plugs in Denver. It has the original Keihin FCR 39 carb, common air box mod, K&N air filter, power bomb header and an FMF pipe (in other words, it breaths heavy). Any ideas where I should start with re-jetting? Any way to change the jets in this thing without taking the carb off? It's my first time working with anything other than the needle in this carb and I would appreciate any tips and tricks.
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