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Found 6 results

  1. I need to do a tune-up/re-jet my carb for the elevation here in Rio Rancho. it runs ok but runs better with the choke on and higher rpms. has slight backfire when decel and a bogg when burping the gas. Id rather have someone knowledgeable to assist rather than try on my own.
  2. Hi everybody. I come to this forum which I've been browsing extensively. Despite the large amount of information concerning the settings of this carburetor on thumpertalk, I have a problem that I can't solve. That's why I'm creating a new topic despite the amount of information I already have. I live in the swiss alps and I bought a 2004 european WRF450 supermoto six months ago. Perfect bike for the small winding roads near my house. I have completely revised it and it works well. Here are the different characteristics: -Main jet: 165 defined by the method of stopping carburation at full throttle. good spark plug color. -Pilot Jet: 50 -Pilot air jet: 80 -Pilot screw: 3 and 1/2 turn out!!!! -Needle model/Clip position: OBDUQ/ 2nd positon from the top (european stock) (OBDUR ordered for lower clip height) -Exhaust: Stock -AP timing set correctly with a 3.1mm diameter shaft. -Altitude where you ride: 1500-2000 -Valve lash good The bike starts well at the first kick. No bugs when the motorcycle is running As you can see the pilot screw is (much) too loose. Even if I increase the diameter of the pilot jet (to have a richer setting and to be able to tighten the screw in a correct range),the setting of pilot screw remains the same: 3 or more turns out. I went up .48 to a .55 pilot jet and the problem remains the same. The carburettor has been completely disassembled, ultrasonic cleaned, all gaskets changed. the height of the float has been adjusted to 8 mm. Pilot screw, o-ring and spring are new and have been ordered from Yamaha. I don't understand why the change of pilot jet has no effect. Ideas?
  3. I know there's gobs of threads out there along these lines, just hoping to narrow this down some & dig less. I live at 7,500 ft and for the most part do not ride any lower. Can't get carb dialed in. Ran it hot, ran it lean, ran it rich, I finally get it where it feels right & will get riding for about 10-15 mins and it cuts outs, engine dies on descent. After it dies the MF'er wont kick over for at least 20 mins. Gone back and forth all over with the idle get same result. I think my issues are from the hot start adjustment. Can someone with some carb experience on these 4strokes just tell me about what should be the right adjustments (turns out), at high daltitude: - fuel/air mixture knob (bottom of carb) - idle adjustment - hot start adjustment - Is the knob adjustment for the hot start (where it goes into the carb) & the cable adjustment (cable adjustment for hot start up by perch) the same adjustment? I get truly dialing it in takes going off RPM's, I am just trying to figure and know I am in the right ballpark so I can rule shit out. Input is much appreciated have been grounded for 3 weekends in a row now &%$#@!ing with bike. About to go mess with it a little more and if I don't get anywhere will get a picture of the plug up. Thanks,
  4. Hi there, Completely new here to the forum but already read a lot of info! Just bought a very nice Keihin FCR 41 MX carb to go with my KTM 640 SM 2004. This sunday i'm going to fit the carb on the bike but need some guidance for the jetting. The bike now has: - Snorkel from the airbag removed and the top of the airbbox is fully open - Leovince X3 slip on (i sawed de DBkiller, without it's way too loud and with the full DBkiller i can't hear the revs...) So... how to start with the jetting? I live at sea level! I also have a Rally cam laying around, do i need to rejet when i put the Rally cam in? Thanks in advance!
  5. after searching for what seems like forever for a solution for this issue, I've finally decided to post my own. so I have a 2004 yz250f, and it has a hanging idle, bog, it runs hot, and backfires. For starters, I have a twin filter system, a power bomb, and a fmf 4.1. it does have a zip ty fuel screw also. the jetting is: 182 main, 48 pilot( runs worse with 48 than it did with 45), needle is 4th from top. I have searched for air leaks to no avail, cleaned and replaced the main and pilot, tried the unplugging the tps theory, adjusted valves, made sure the exhaust is sealed with RTV and also repacked the muffler, checked and lubed both hot start and throttle cable along with other things that I can't remember. Some things that caught my eye are: one of the screws for the top cap of the carb is missing, the spring and oring are missing for the fuel screw, the leak jet is bugged up from a slipped screwdriver(might be my fault, but nothing changed), the exhaust gasket setup doesn't look quite right but seems to seal fine, the valve shims are getting somewhat small (1.3-1.5), the tps seemed to fix it for about 30 seconds then went back to the same thing, the idle adjustment screw doesn't turn very smoothly, and finally, the slide isn't very snappy but isn't slow at all. any help is much much appreciated and I will try to post a video also to maybe give a better idea
  6. I was having some trouble with fuel leaking from the overflow on the carb. It would leak sometimes both while riding and in storage. Sometimes it leaked, sometimes it didn't. Then after winter storage when I turned the petcock on it started leaking really badly while sitting still and riding both. When I removed and disassembled the carb(stock fcr carb on an 2003 drz400e) for cleaning I noticed most of the gaskets and o-rings rings were shot and the ac pump wasn't squirting as far as it should so I ordered a full rebuild kit for it. Cleaned the carb thoroughly, installed all new rebuild parts (including float valve needle, seat, and seat o-ring). I checked the float level and it looked to be about right on 9mm (maybe closer to 10mm if anything so that would actually lower the actual fuel level a little bit right?), so I wouldn't think it should be overflowing from the float height. I cleaned the little screen in the back of the cable seat and installed it on the new one. Cleaned the fuel inlet tube with carb cleaner and compressed air as well. When I reinstalled the carb and hooked up fuel it was fine for about 2 hours while I cleaned up the shop a little and then went to bed. The next morning the carb was leaking from the overflow tube again. Went for a little ride when I got home from work(the bike seems to be starting and running fantastic if that makes any difference) and it stopped and was bone dry for the rest of the night. It was still dry in the morning, then when I got home from work it was leaking again. Although not as bad as the day before. I've tried tapping on the bottom of the carb with the screwdriver handle, jumping on the bike and bouncing it... Not looking forward to taking this carb out again... Any ideas as to what you do or look for here? I thought I was pretty darn thorough in my work... I'm out of ideas! Any info would be great! Thanks
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