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Found 34 results

  1. Ok so i was out riding today noticed no issues , shut my bike off and went to go start it and everytime it's in neutral and you kick it. It goes into first gear and the kickstart is then almost impossible to move but it does , pulled the clutch cover everything down to the basket looked decent. What could the kickstart be catching , the shift paw or is this transmission related , where should I start looking.
  2. My son has a 1998 ktm 50 adventure and the kick start spring broke. We have called everywhere and the part is discontinued and we cannot find anyone who would happen to have one laying around. Is there a different part that I could use to replace this?
  3. Chance Ainscough

    New(to me) 02' Wr 426

    Hey Folks, Iv'e followed this forum for a while just for advice purposes and had great luck from all the information iv'e found so far. Unfortunately I have got myself a problem that I cant seem to find any insight into and its probably just my ignorance to dirtbikes and my bike in general but, hopfully some of you can shed some light onto my lowly knowledge. Right to it then- I just got myself a WR426. While looking it up ive found they are a pain in the arse to start. I spent hours just researching all the different "techniques" people use to start the bikes. I have found that the kicking down to TDC then pulling decomp and kicking through it about 1 inch rouchly, letting go of the decomp, raise the kick to the very top and haull ass through. Unfortunately out here in Nb, Canada, our weathers beenr anging from -10 to -30 so, the bike isnt starting right now (its a monster to start in good weather i hear so i wasnt hopeful of anything). NOW. I went away for a month and have had the bike parked in a unheated garage. I got home last night and figured id go outside and check the bike out and see if i could MAYBE get it going. I jumped on and went to do the drill. The kick wont move. Pulled decomp and tried to push through. Nothing. I noticed the rad fluid was frozen (before i left I unscrewed the cap to let any freezing that may have happened have somewhere to go and the cap is now stuck. That aside I didnt know if these bikes have anything that could freeze in them etc that could be causing this issue. The motor is brand new with about 10 hours on it. Is this just a case of, let the bike sit till its warm and see what its like in the summer months or should i take another course of action. Any help is much appreciated, and if anyon has any suggestions for how the bike should be started let me know! Thanks folks.
  4. Hey all, after a busy summer of school and work I've finally carved out some time to replace my busted countershaft. After reviewing several threads about the kickstart addition, I decided this would be my chance to have a kickstart/easy button combo bike. Luckily enough I found a '95 XR600R basket case with a blown head but very useable bottom end with all the kicker bits I need! Pulled out the engine last night and now I need a little bit of sagely advice from the wise folks here at TT: First, I need a gasket set for the rebuild, will Winderosa/Mooseracing be okay, or should I only put in OEM gaskets? Also, I'll be splitting both cases this week to get all the parts out and begin putting them in the L, but is there anything specifically I should be looking out for when inspecting the donor parts? Any tips on splitting the cases in general? Finally, I know there's been a handful of people who have done this mod, and I know everything fits into place in the L bottom end nicely, but has anyone had any strange issues? This bike will be carrying myself and some gear to Baja this winter for ~3 weeks and it needs to be dead reliable, or at least as reliable as it was last year in baja. Thanks to everyone on the boards who has helped me out thus far, the kickstart add on threads are very helpful! I should say, this is my first complete tear down so any advice/tips are very welcome! Here's a pic of the engines out on bench:
  5. PROBLEM SOLVED. Please read my second post (below) for my error and the correction. Coming shortly. Well, my new kickstart worked flawlessly when I tested it yesterday after its brand new installation on my 2016 SM. I had it in neutral and kicked it to life with a heartfelt "hallelujah". Today, when I go for my first ride, I fire it up (first kick!), I go to pull in the clutch and put it in gear (which I did not try yesterday), and the clutch lever is limper than Elton John at a Miss America pageant. It pulls straight to the bar with zero resistance. The cable is intact, and I can watch it actuate the little clutch release shaft that enters the case as I pull the lever, but there is no tension on the cable. So I'm fairly certain there is no lever or cable problem. FWIW, I feel confident in my kickstart installation, but I must have dropped the ball when I reinstalled the clutch. To be honest, it was my first time tearing down/reinstalling a dirt bike clutch, and I used the TT FAQ Clutch Maintenance & Inspection guide and I feel pretty good on it, too. I tightened down my 6 clutch springs evenly, made sure the inner friction plate was the larger inner diameter plate. I used my clutch sleeve holder and a torque wrench and tightened the nut to 50lbft. I plan on inspecting the two inner "washers" (shudder springs) that fit at the base of the clutch sleeve, but I don't think they have any bearing on clutch lever tension let alone disengagement. So I'm after what would cause the spring tension to fail prohibiting disengagement of the clutch. Any suggestions on what to inspect? Anyone who has installed a kickstarter have an immediate clutch problem like mine?
  6. Hello, My 2007 Suzuki rmz450 has just recently started giving me hell. I was cruising around yesterday and all of a sudden I couldn't upshift. I tried down shifting as I was slowing and it wouldn't work either and the bike stalled. I tried to kick it over after I stopped and got it into neutral and it wouldn't turn over and the kickstarter started kickback almost every kick. Then the kickstarter seized on me. I tried to slowly push it by hand. Then tried shifting up into top gear to push it for troubleshooting, and it wouldn't shift past second. So pushed it back home in neutral and took of the the leftist engine cover to crank over the cam shaft. It moved fine and unstuck the kickstarter. Put the cover back on added the required oil. Then the gears started getting more finicky. It would budge at all at first then would only shift the odd time intermittently, but no higher than 3rd. Tried putting it in neutral and kickstarting it and it just kicked back every time. Im guessing the overall problem with the transmission could be the gear forks, gearshift cam, or gearshift pawl? Im interested in what everyone else thinks in what is the problem here with the kickback and shifting, as I am a newb. Thanks much appreciated
  7. Just got my bike from the shop and had the top end rebuilt. Started it up in the parking lot and ran it till it got hot and the engine kind of bogged down and died. When I tried to crank it back up, I could stand on the kickstart and it would budge. The engine had locked up so I took it back in and the technician said it could be that the cam chain tensioner hadnt set yet. He took the side of the motor off and manually tuened the engine over and got it goin after it cooled off. I took it home and rode it for about 20 minites and it never died, but I shut it off to check something and it wouldnt start back up. The shop I had it at said it might also the a worn crankshaft bearing that expands when heated up and keeps the bike from turning over when hot. They said it wasnt covered under the warranty of the work that they just did. Is this true? Whats the process for fixing this and how much would it cost?
  8. Brandon Swan

    0E7A560B-6DB6-4E3A-9B9F-89A6E270B452.jpeg

    From the album: Brandon Swan

  9. Brandon Swan

    Clutch cover assembly

    From the album: Brandon Swan

  10. What does everyone do with the manual decompression kits that come with the kicker kit? There must be a pile of them somewhere!
  11. Shane Lewis

    Kickstart locked stuck

    Hello all, first post here. First time rider too. Just bought this 98 YZ400f. Not the proudest owner at the moment but we’ll see. Got it from a friend for $700 (way to much for a possibly blown bike now I realize) . Oh well. Issue is the Kickstart won’t cycle through. Even previous owner, an avid rider, who owned the bike when it was running, couldn’t kick it through. So I’m thinking it’s bad but how bad is the question . Seized piston, seized crankshaft, or Kickstarter axles and gears that whole mechanism broken?. Anybody have the proper steps in diagnosis and troubleshooting this . I saw an thread that said the kickstart comes off and you can try to rotate the crankshaft and if it moves it could be something else. Just starting to dive into this issue. Kinda want to fix this thing, might just buy a whole new engine, might try to save this one. Kinda going the cheapest /easy route if possible . Found a bottom end on eBay for 300. But I’d like to TS this engine first to see if it’s something simple . Would really appreciate the help guys!! Peace
  12. Here are some observations regarding my kickstart kick install on a 2016 SM. 1) The 2 retainer screws were ridiculously tight and had soft heads. Even after reading repeatedly about this known issue did nothing to help. With both screws on the retainer I sprayed with Break-Free the night before, I used my heat gun for minutes and minutes with EACH screw, and I used an impact driver. Golfers at the Masters in a sudden-death playoff spend less time selecting a club then I did in choosing the right driver bit for this task. I was ready. I still managed to strip one of the two screws and used my TAP set to extract it. Those lil’ b’tards have to be JIS screws. (note proper retaining bracket orientation and how the X of the screws’ drive heads are assuming their true forms: upside down crucifixes.) The only thing I thought of that I didn’t try was to (lightly!) coat the heads with nail hardener (like yo mama uses) and let it cure first prior to loosening. Of course, you would need to replace those screws once removed as you wouldn’t want that chemical to melt off and mosey around your engine once you fired the bike up and the screws were irrigated with hot oil. Bottom Line: have backup screws [ part # 02122-0616A ] on hand and be prepared to tap. Removing the right footpeg gives a better angle of attack on the lower LEFTscrew. If you’ve never extracted a screw before by tap-ing, don’t make this your maiden voyage. Find an experienced wrenchologist. 2) BIKE ORIENTATION FOR INSTALL I installed my kit with my bike upright secured with tie-downs on my lift stand/jack. Most installs I’ve seen have been with the bike laid down on its side. Doing it upright <hee hee> came in handy when I had to drill for the screw extraction as it helped keep little metal drill shavings out of the case. (You still need to create a barrier using paper toweling around your drill sites to keep flying bits of screw shrapnel from making into your exposed case.) Keeping the bike upright lessened the exposure for dropping anything down in the nether reaches you will never reach in the bowels of your crankcase. Also, the bike wept oil for days and I was able to wick a lot of this dirty stuff out of the bottom of the crankcase over this time. (There will also be a few bonus drops of coolant from where the case would meet the water pump.) It is the most complete oil removal I have ever done (there were multiple ounces) and I doubt I could have accomplished it with the bike on its side. I only came across 2 small particles in the dirty oil that hadn’t made it to a plug magnet or the oil filter so that was encouraging. Installing the case gasket was probably more challenging with it upright. I aligned it on the case cover with my fingers over a couple of bolts I fished through, then attached both gasket and cover simultaneously for the win. 3) REMARKS ON DRZ400 FIXES I did three recommended fixes while I had the bike drained with the cases off: Waterpump RTV fix. The snap ring pliers bought for the kickstart shaft came in super handy. I used a heavy plastic spoon that I trimmed to fit to help remove the ceramic impeller shaft seal. My original waterpump housing o-ring [ 17435-29F00 ] seemed swollen and would not want to seat, so I’m glad I had a second one on hand. Counterbalancer nut. My torque wrenches are reversible and my nut was on there snug with about 38-40 lbft before it came loose. [Manual says 36] I did the Loctite fix and tightened to 36lbft. Primary nut. Set for 70 lbft to remove – snug. Set for 80lbft – snug. Set for 90lbft – still snug. Set for 100 lbft and it still wouldn’t budge. Used Green (penetrating) Loctite and called it a day as it is on there for good. (Like many other post-2013 owners have found with starter clutch bolts and other bolts – they’re on there for the long haul.) 4) EXHAUST HEATSHIELD COMPATIBILITY I have the full Yoshimura RS/2 competition exhaust and I had to remove the heat shield in order to accommodate the kickstart lever. There are only a couple of millimeters of clearance between the lever and the pipe itself. This was odd as I have seen pics on the internet of guys with Yosh pipes with Yosh heatshields that had no clearance problems with their kickstart levers. Maybe they modded their heatshields or something? 5) Final Remarks: -Use Mr. Cobb’s DRZ400 kickstart install guide and the Ewetube video by the FLB Club. Both very handy. -Make sure you budget time to let your Loctite and RTV silicone cure before adding fluids let alone starting. (The 24-hour MINIMUM will be one of the longest waits of your life.) -Also, if you’ve never kicked a bike to life before, have your heavyweight boots on in case you pull a rookie move with your new starting technique. Getting your newbie calf “lever-whipped” if your foot slips off would be no fun.
  13. Hey Thumpers, I took the Carby off to replace the AP diaphragm and the Main Jet....Reassembled the Carby to the engine , attempted to kick the bike but the lever is stuck in the upright position and won't kick downwards. I took the right side case off on the Clutch side and noticed two teeth missing from the Primary gear and a couple from the Idler gear. Needless to say i found two of the teeth belonging to the Primary gear, proceeded to take the left casing off on the Stator side and noticed some metal particles pasted on the Pickup magnet. I cleaned that off , found no foreign objects on the Stator side, reconnected the kickstart lever on the lever shaft just to see if it freed up, by my surprise i was able to kick and turn over the engine like it should....BTW the spark plug was removed before to ease the compression. After all of that i felt a bit relieved and placed the left and right side casings back on . Refitted the Gas tank, kicked her and she started right up. Took her around the gap and CLAX! that bike cuts out and the kick start lever is stuck again. I was able to put the bike in neutral and walked her home , i can shift all through the gears like normal. Click the link below to view the video. Stuck Kick Lever Hope you guys can shed some light on where to look.
  14. What's up guys. This is my first question I've posted on here; I need some help. I recently bought a 2001 RM125 to fix as my senior project, expecting to be putting a top end in it and cleaning it up. Upon further inspection, the entire top end was shot, and when I took the cylinder off, I saw moisture and rust on the crank. Fast forward a few months and I have purchased a full top and bottom end and installed both. I put the bike engine in the bike today to see if I could start it and the kickstarter is stuck. I know the top end is not seized because I can hear the piston moving when I spin the clutch. Any ideas?
  15. Brandon Swan

    Alignment marks

    From the album: Brandon Swan

  16. Aoneill1234

    My Sons SX 85

    Hi guys im in the process of rebuilding whole engine and am at assenbly anywat the kickstarter shaft looks to be a bit too long sticking out of the case. Compared to my 125sx also does not have a ratchet sound it works fine and I actually saw a video that leads me to believe its normal about 1/2 " of the shaft shows when the kicker is installed???? any experience out there? thx
  17. I've recently bought a brand new 2017 YZ450f and I have troubles starting it. It takes around 3-7 (very hard) kicks to turn it on, even when it's hot. I was expecting a one kick start up, but maybe i'm wrong. I am also 5'9 and kicking so the bike is even more of a pain to kick. I normally ride lower bikes. Are there any methods I should be using? Or is this a normal thing? Thanks for any advice.
  18. Ignore

    Kick Start lights

    So I'm wondering if there is any way I can put a headlight and a tail light on my 2006 Honda crf 150f. It is a kick start bike, and does not have an electric start. If there is a light kit out there that anybody knows about that would work please let me know. Also let me know if this is even possible. Thank you.
  19. Cstewart777

    YZ125 wont kickstart cold

    I just purchased a YZ 125 (2002) and it won't kickstart when cold. Will bump start fairly easy and will warm up with a very high idle. Lots of smoke from exhaust. (I'm running 32:1 mix). It will start right up after it has warmed up. Compression good, has a new top end (per former owner). Could this be a bad crank seal?
  20. Jack Abercrombie

    Broken kick start shaft!!

    Came home from a week of being away, go to start up my 2000 kx250 and the kickstart snaps off. It broke off by the actual kick shaft. I'll post a pic. Anyways, I wasn't to worried but I have looked for the part and Kawi doesn't make it anymore! And nothing on eBay. Figures. I saw one for a 98 but don't know if that'll fit? Suggestions?
  21. I have an XT350 that either starts like a dream (first or second/third kick, cold or warm) or not at all. I took her out this morning, started third kick no problem. Ten minute ride into town and sat for about an hour and half. Started first kick. Rode her for about five/ten minutes to the next place I had to go. Fifteen minutes later, would not start. At all. I tried on and off for about 45/60 minutes. Thankfully this doesn't happen as much as it used to, but I'd like to get this solved as sometimes I actually have places to go, people to see. I smelled no gas, so she wasn't flooded. Wouldn't turn over at all, only sound was "poof" from the exhaust during the kick. There was gas in the fuel line. Eventually got her started after several half "thumps". (It sounded like she was going to start, but died within a second of the "thump" sound.) She's got a few other quirks but mostly runs fine. Why would she do this? Here's a video of me trying to get her started:
  22. Hi All, I was out riding with my son in the weekend and after about 3 hours my husky te250 suddenly died. The engine cut out, the back wheel locked up and I skidded to a halt in the sand. i tried to kick her over but the KickStart only moved a couple of inches and then stopped. I then pulled the decompression lever and the KickStart turned her over freely, but as soon as I let it go it would move a couple of inches and stop again. I am going to take it to the shop this week but thought I would see if anyone could shed some light on what may have happened. Up until this moment it had been running great and because I was just following my boy around on his PW80 I was not giving it much of a workout at all. i was riding on sand through a forestry track and also through quite a few fairly big puddles, but the breakdown happened a long way from any of the puddles. now I'm just hoping it's not too major !! thanks for any help
  23. Last time I had my valves adjusted I had a shop do them, so I will preface this by saying that I may have adjusted them incorrectly myself because I do not recall this noise, and the kickstart problem that has come with it, after the previous adjustment. However, after completing what I believed to be a successful valve adjustment (I used the crank lock method to ensure I was at TDC) I immediately noticed this very loud ticking noise coming from the front right side of the engine that was not there before. This noise is separate from the normal noisy clutch sound that will go away when the clutch is engaged. This noise itself however, seems to subside when I pull in the decompression lever. The throttle response on the bike felt good when I rode it, and the electric start works just fine. The only noticeable issue (which is what is making me decide not to ignore the noise) is that my kickstart now feels like a brick wall and harshly snaps back at me, whereas before it would kick over the bike fairly effortlessly in no more than two kicks hot or cold. I will post a video of the bike riding and of it running while in the garage. Any suggestions for how to fix this are appreciated. Thanks in advance to all! Garage (rip kickstart/excuse the monologue): https://youtu.be/wG3lT3gixMw Riding (everything seems fine): https://youtu.be/ylqQpcufWzA
  24. Brandon Swan

    F5AFA613-1CCF-4B13-AEAD-8A5177B39C60.jpeg

    From the album: Brandon Swan

  25. I put the add-on kickstarter on my 2017 EXC 350, and it doesn't return correctly. It has some binding near end of the return, and stops short of the solid stopping point. I lined up the mark with the spring hole like it's supposed to be, and the spring wound about 1/2 turn. It wouldn't really stay in its hole in the case very well, but I got it together that way. The instructions say to make sure the spring is centered on the shaft, and it didn't really stay put that way. Does anyone have any experience with this. Is the spring supposed to wrap around a full 1.5 turns? Thanks, Toby
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