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Found 54 results

  1. So I recently picked up a 98 KX250 for a killer deal, The guy's wife just wanted it gone so I picked it up without to much discussion. He did tell me that last he remembered it ran rough and had some issues with the kick start. Cleaned the carbs (replaced jets), checked the cylinder, replaced cables, grips, chain, and a few other odds and ends. Got it to start up fairly easily just needed to find the sweet spot for the air and idle screws. I did notice the kick starter seemed to be slipping a bit, so I took off the right side engine cover and inspected it.. I found that the bracket that stops the ratchet was misaligned, and the post that it was suppose to fit over had sheared off, so it wasn't holding the ratchet correctly... at that time I just re adjusted the bracket to where it was suppose to be and tightened down the bolt... I thought I was good and took her out the track for the maiden voyage and on the 3rd kick the end of the kickstart shaft sheared off (I had noticed the end had already been 'twisted')... luckily I found a few people to help me push start her and was able to enjoy some time out on the track. When I removed the broken shaft I noted that the bracket had not moved, so either I installed it wrong or there is something else going on.. So I ordered a new kickstart shaft, and this time when installing I carefully drilled out the spot where the post was suppose to got and found an allen head bolt that fit snugly inside the bracket. This time I took careful steps to make sure I installed the kickstart shaft so the ratchet arm was resting in the bracket, then was able to get the spring in its keeper. So I though I was good. I went to start it and man as I remembered before the amount of force to kick it seems really high, more so that 450s I've had the opportunity to ride. It also would kickback if I didn't make it all the way through the stroke. I did eventually get it started and running decent. The next day I was about to get the carb further dialed in when I noticed that end of the new shaft I just installed was already starting to twist, so I decided not to kick on it anymore till I figured it out... This got me thinking, when I installed hotcams on my 250f I intially forgot to install the decompression attachment to the exhaust cam, and started considering it was timing related. I'm still new to strokes but it seems like the timing can really only be set at time of assembly? I know there is ability to retard or advance, which mine is set to the middle tick mark. So long story short what should a be looking at for a harder than normal kickstarts? Could the exhaust valves be opening and closing and the wrong interval? is there an easy way to check those without removing the motor?
  2. Hey all! I've got a 2002 xr650r with the fcr41 carb. The bike fires up first kick every time (hot or cold) when I tdc kick it with the petcock OFF. If I leave the petcock on when the bike is off, I can't start it unless I decompress and kick through for about 5 minutes. It feels flooded. I've rebuilt the carb with the kit from SUDCO. They said they think it's probably the float. I put a new float in and same issue. There is no gas leakage out the carb drains when kicking though if I leave the petcock on. With the tank off, the petcock doesn't leak. So it's sealing. Anyone have the same setup with these issues?
  3. 2008 crf250r dirt bike I bought took forever to start when I test rode it and wouldn't idle very well so I cleaned the carb which seemed to help the idle problem. It still took a few tries to get it started both hot or cold so I got a new plug for it which seemed to help a little more. It still takes 4-5 tries to kickstart and I have to rev it slightly as I kick but when I do it starts right up. Is this just a little trick like some bikes have or is there a greater problem that needs to be checked?
  4. Hey, new member here, my name is Josh. Been looking to get on a bike as I'm growing tired of only having the blaster, so been reading on here about a good beginner bike for myself, and started looking for xr250s. I ended up a project 1994 xr250r, with a broken kick start return spring. (According to PO). He said he picked it up as a project himself but time got away from him. Many oil leaks on this thing during the time I did get it to fire... all valve adjustment caps on rocker cover, oil line fitting at oil cooler, all engine mount bolts loose, 2 hex caps on inside of cyl head by spark plug leak, missing rear brake pedal, kickstand. Also Found a pile of JB weld on clutch cover right above kickstart. (Covering g auto decompression shaft orifice).. I Pulled the cover, and find spring is not broken, but installed on opposite side of casting boss in crankcase. Auto decompression parts Missing in crankcase it seems as well?. Well after I pulled out kickstart shaft to reseat the spring, noticed a bolt was missing from bracket that mounts toward rear of engine and holds the tab on the kicker shaft... Started feeling around with a magnet through the crankcase looking for the missing bolt, and pulled this part out.. what am I dealing with here? Seems like I may need to pull motor and go through it huh... Can anyone ID this small piece and recommend where to go from here? Working with different cars over the years it almost looks like a relief valve plunger for the oil pump... Anybody confirm?
  5. Just bought a brand new YZ250X and the kickstart goes to far forward and hits the case. Three other Yz250x’s I looked at on the showroom floor had a similar problem with kickstarters getting hung up. Any idea what this problem is? Feels like it’s barely grabbing a stopper then slips off and goes forward. Really rather not take in my brand new bike to get torn apart.
  6. My girlfriend and I just purchased two sr170tr bikes online. I put them both together, loctite bolts/screws with blue loctite, changed oil with 10w-40 non synthetic, oiled the air filter and filled them up with premium gas. My bike started after a couple kicks and is keeping idle/running fine. The second bike though has been extremely difficult to kick vs mine. It will occasionally kick but it stops/gets stuck so often you basically break your foot in the process. And when it does kick it has much more resistance in general. This is all based off of comparison with the working sr170tr. After many attempts to start the bike (checking spark plug, making sure wire connections are tight, and 100 difficult kicks) I noticed the manifold intake is cracked. Again this bike is new and never been started before so this was a major bummer... I have nearly zero experience with bikes and dont know how to go about this. Ive emailed the company that sent me the bikes about the broken manifold intake. But scratching my head about the difficult kick start issue. Will the broken intake have anything to do with the difficulty of kicking the engine? Thank you!
  7. I put the add-on kickstarter on my 2017 EXC 350, and it doesn't return correctly. It has some binding near end of the return, and stops short of the solid stopping point. I lined up the mark with the spring hole like it's supposed to be, and the spring wound about 1/2 turn. It wouldn't really stay in its hole in the case very well, but I got it together that way. The instructions say to make sure the spring is centered on the shaft, and it didn't really stay put that way. Does anyone have any experience with this. Is the spring supposed to wrap around a full 1.5 turns? Thanks, Toby
  8. Hello there. I am very confused about to buy a new kickstart lever for my kawasaki kx 250 2001. my boys broke it trying to start the bike. we fitted a new one from the 2002 model with a new boss but then i smashed the lever. What kind of kickstart lever is compatible with our shaft or boss? kickstart levers for this bike are discontinued. Thank you for your help!
  9. I had just gotten a 98 Honda Xr200r and I was riding it when suddenly the dirt bike went out and it was making a clicking noise. I tried to kickstart it but when i did it just made a clicking noise for a few seconds then went cold. I am generally new with dirt bikes but i know a little bit i'm trying to be patient but the person who is supposed to help me fix it is just putting off the time so i came here. Any thoughts or suggestions? Please help.
  10. Hey guys, we can really use some know-how on this issue, thank you in advance for any help you can provide! We've been struggling for a few weeks with a kickstart issue with a 2013 KX250F. My son purchased the bike grenaded; broken valves, damaged head, bad piston and cylinder (piston jammed sideways in cylinder), bad crank and rod, bad bearings, and all the other issues that go along with these. We sent the head to Millennium for repair and we also had them install Kibblewhite black diamond valves and springs. We installed a new crank, crank bearings, a few other bad bearings, new cam chain, Cylinder Works cylinder, Vertex piston, gaskets, and reworked head. We shimmed the valves and checked them a few times with the new springs - we ended up make a small change in one of the exhaust shims and they are all now within factory spec - 0.10-0.15mm intake and 0.17-0.22mm exhaust. The bike did sit for over a year with fuel in it, but we emptied it and put in rec gas (90 octane without ethanol) along with seafoam and some injector cleaner. We have just over 60 pounds of compression when we tested it. With all that said, we can not get the bike to kick start. We can kick it until our leg falls off and she won't start. Now, if we push it and it turns over once or twice and doesn't start then we are able to kick start it. If we spray starting fluid in the throttle body it will also kick start. We tested the capacitor and it seems to check out. We're not sure if it could be an issue with the fuel pump, although once it's running it runs great. We push started it up until now and we've run it on a trail system for a few hours without any issue. The fuel injection works great without any hesitation so it seems that the injectors and fuel pump are good. Once we shut it off it will kick start within a few minutes just like it should. If it cools down for about 15 minutes then it won't kick start again. When we pulled the tank off we did notice that the gas leaks out of the fuel pump and never stops leaking out. When we apply 12 volts to the fuel pump in testing it sprays fuel quite well. As I said before, once started it runs great and everything works as it should. We have a little over 2 hours on it and she's still running strong. We are out of ideas as to what the issue could be and any help here would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for the great community! Rich and Josh
  11. My son has a 1998 ktm 50 adventure and the kick start spring broke. We have called everywhere and the part is discontinued and we cannot find anyone who would happen to have one laying around. Is there a different part that I could use to replace this?
  12. I came across this post from "EnthusiastMania" all the way back from 2013: "Can you put in a kick starter as a backup in an '08 ttr230? Where can i buy this? How much does it cost? And, can I install this myself? Any help would be great." -which, to this day, still had no response. I considered replying to his post, but considering how old it was, thought it might be better to answer this question, finally, decisively, here in a new post - and (hopefully) help a few folks out in the process. So, to shorcut to what everyone wants to know, the answer is..................................... (drum roll, here..............) Yes. You can. I did. But before you go running off to order a new hundred dollar kickstart lever, you might want to read to the end and decide if (for you) it's really worth it. Why WOULD it be worth it? Well, maybe you're an old codger like me who grew up on dirt bikes and thinks that a battery and a starter on a 223cc motorcycle is the silliest thing in the world. Maybe you think that removing 10 pounds of extra fat from a 240 pound motorcycle will actually make a difference. Or MAYBE, you'd like to add a substantial, rebuildable, revalveable, fully adjustable rear shock absorber and you can't find the space to put it - but with the battery box out of the way, you suddenly have options. (But that's another chapter for later) Whatever your reasons, here's what needs to be done. Remember, I'm no expert - this is just how I managed to fumble through the process. You might have found a different way, or a better way - any suggestions you post here will help out everybody who's reading this, so jump in! As you know, the TT-R230 was never offered with a kickstarter, but a lot of the crankcase parts are passed down from the TT-R225, XT225, XT200, TW200 and BW200 going back as far as 1985, and some of these models did have kickstarters. I found a kickstart assembly from a ’89 TW200 that should fill the space under the clutch cover correctly. Well, it would, if there were holes in the cases to mount it in. It seems that by the time we got to TT-R230 production, we were so far from the kickstarter that the cases are no longer being machined for the kickstart assembly, and instead the aluminum molding is just left where the holes would be. Trying to machine that out precisely for the 17mm shaft size and the 24mm seal using a hand drill probably wouldn’t be very successful, so the question became whether a cover from a previous model would have the mounting hole for the kickstarter, but also fit the later model crankcase. The XT200 had a kickstarter, and would work fine. The XT225 did not have a kickstart, but it looks like Yamaha hedged their bets on the recently developed electric start by continuing to machine the holes for the kickstart shaft and inserting a plug in the hole, which can be easily knocked out. This gave us a mounting point on the cover. Unfortunately, the same problem existed on the other side of the kick start shaft – no hole is machined into the crankcase itself on the 230 to hold the inboard side of the gear cluster. The BW-TW200 crankcases were not the same; an XT200 crankcase fit right up but had the crankcase vent in the wrong place; but the XT225 had all the right stuff. So now we had a place to mount the gear cluster, but the kickstart gear itself doesn't turn the clutch basket – it is connected via a separate idler gear that mounts on the end of the transmission main shaft. That’s held in place by a thrust washer and a circlip, and – you guessed it – the TT-R230 no longer has the groove machined into the mainshaft for the circlip. This meant that a new (old) transmission would need to be dropped in. The TW/BW trannys were all 5-speeds, and did not fit this crankcase, but the XT200/225 was a direct fit. The next challenge was that since the XT was an on/off road dual purpose bike, 1st – 2nd – 3rd gear were wider ratio than the neat close-ratio six-speed in the TT-R230. Luckily, first and second driven gears were removable without a machine shop, and the gears from the 230 were swapped over to the XT200 shafts to create the same close gear pattern that works well in the New England woods. If you're a desert rider, you might like the wide 1-2-3 combo - bonus! With a machined groove on the mainshaft now, the idler gear could be mounted and the kickstart assembly installed. You can see the idler just behind my right index finger. With the motor back in the bike, I found one more difference between the XT and the TT-R: the XTs come with a 428 chain, the TT-Rs are all 520. You wouldn’t think that would make much of a difference, but the output shaft on the XT transmission is 5mm shorter on the sprocket side, and designed for the thinner 428 sprocket. Luckily, the splines are the same, but now I have to grind about a millimeter out of the face of any new sprocket I install, carefully avoiding the teeth. The drive chain itself is jogged over a couple of millimeters when installed, but it doesn’t interfere with anything. Just needs to dig a new groove in the swingarm protector. At this point, we had a splined kickstarter shaft sticking out of a clutch cover – good progress, but it still won’t start the bike. The kickstart shaft is 16mm (from the valley of the splines) or 16.5mm (from the peak of the splines), and there are many 16mm imported kickstart levers available for less than $20 on eBay. Unfortunately, the Yamaha shaft has 32 splines, and the imports only 30 – they will not work. After days of searching, I finally bit the bullet and bought a new $100 kickstart lever from Yamaha. Ouch. With the expensive new kickstart lever installed, it would seem that we were home free, but some of you sharp-eyed folks might’ve already picked out the next challenge. Disabling even the kickstarter option on the 230 by not machining the mounting holes gave Yamaha the opportunity to tuck the rear brake lever up close to the engine cases – exactly where the arc of the kickstarter would go. With the kickstart lever in place, there was no way to kick it more than ninety degrees before it hit the brake lever! Clearly, the brake lever needed a redesign. Going back through the previous models was no help – the frames and brake lever mounting points were all different from the TT-R. There was no pre-existing brake lever (that I could find) that was going to solve this problem. So, with the help of some 3/8 scrap steel, a 20-ton press, and a welder, I went to work building a new brake pedal. The design objectives were to 1. Clear the kickstarter, 2. Not protrude in any way that would cause it to hang up on rocks or other obstacles while riding, and 3. Be absolutely strong enough that I wasn’t going to be second-guessing it on my way down some rock cliff. The new brake lever came out like this: Using the front and rear pieces of the original brake lever, I welded a flat three inch wide “sled” under the footpeg and the frame, curved up to glide over rocks. Using three inches of 3/8" thick metal made me feel confident about the strength, and by “dovetailing” the welded joints – cutting intersecting grooves in each piece and fitting them together – I felt pretty good about the joint strength. The “toe” of the pedal was originally right under the last “A” in the word YAMAHA, so I inadvertently shortened the lever a little bit, but with my size 8 boots, it seems to work just fine. As strange as it sounds, the finished project (for me) is as much about suspension as it is about bike-starting. Okay - true confession - I still think a starter motor on a 223cc dirt bike is silly (Oh, no, I'm definitely going to hear it about that one...! 😬) But installing the kickstarter allows me to remove the battery, and removing the battery lets me remove the lower right corner of the battery box and clears up some room for a really nice remote reservoir shock in the back. And yes, I called Works Performance - they have been "getting around to" building a shock for the TT-R230 for the last 4 years, and you have to mount the remote reservoir someplace, and have you ever actually seen that shock in person? It's smaller than the stock shock. For $600 plus. Eh! ...but that's another story. So I think it's safe to say, you would REALLY want to have a kickstarter to go to all this trouble, but if you DID, at least you've got a roadmap now, and know what you're getting into. If you've spent some time working on this same project, let us know what you found. You'll be helping out everyone who reads the post!
  13. So i recently bought a 2010 CRF450x and when i was buying it i noticed a small leak. For the couple days ive owned it i discovered that on the other side of where the kickstart shaft runs through the case is broken. I have the idea to get a nickel and some jb weld to seal it up.. but im pretty bummed. Any tips or help? Upclose picture is my bike, other pic is reference
  14. Need some help with this one. My kickstart shaft keeps rubbing on the side case and scraping off little flakes of it. Cleaned it up and set it in properly (I believe) but not sure why the gear isn’t staying still seems to wobble a bit. Any help is appreciated.
  15. I have an XT350 that either starts like a dream (first or second/third kick, cold or warm) or not at all. I took her out this morning, started third kick no problem. Ten minute ride into town and sat for about an hour and half. Started first kick. Rode her for about five/ten minutes to the next place I had to go. Fifteen minutes later, would not start. At all. I tried on and off for about 45/60 minutes. Thankfully this doesn't happen as much as it used to, but I'd like to get this solved as sometimes I actually have places to go, people to see. I smelled no gas, so she wasn't flooded. Wouldn't turn over at all, only sound was "poof" from the exhaust during the kick. There was gas in the fuel line. Eventually got her started after several half "thumps". (It sounded like she was going to start, but died within a second of the "thump" sound.) She's got a few other quirks but mostly runs fine. Why would she do this? Here's a video of me trying to get her started:
  16. I just purchased a YZ 125 (2002) and it won't kickstart when cold. Will bump start fairly easy and will warm up with a very high idle. Lots of smoke from exhaust. (I'm running 32:1 mix). It will start right up after it has warmed up. Compression good, has a new top end (per former owner). Could this be a bad crank seal?
  17. Sup fellas, Made my first bike clip, rippin thru the woods at last light. Give a like and subscribe if u wanna see more short adventure highlights like this. Suggestions are welcome. -Zamboni
  18. So I'm wondering if there is any way I can put a headlight and a tail light on my 2006 Honda crf 150f. It is a kick start bike, and does not have an electric start. If there is a light kit out there that anybody knows about that would work please let me know. Also let me know if this is even possible. Thank you.
  19. Last time I had my valves adjusted I had a shop do them, so I will preface this by saying that I may have adjusted them incorrectly myself because I do not recall this noise, and the kickstart problem that has come with it, after the previous adjustment. However, after completing what I believed to be a successful valve adjustment (I used the crank lock method to ensure I was at TDC) I immediately noticed this very loud ticking noise coming from the front right side of the engine that was not there before. This noise is separate from the normal noisy clutch sound that will go away when the clutch is engaged. This noise itself however, seems to subside when I pull in the decompression lever. The throttle response on the bike felt good when I rode it, and the electric start works just fine. The only noticeable issue (which is what is making me decide not to ignore the noise) is that my kickstart now feels like a brick wall and harshly snaps back at me, whereas before it would kick over the bike fairly effortlessly in no more than two kicks hot or cold. I will post a video of the bike riding and of it running while in the garage. Any suggestions for how to fix this are appreciated. Thanks in advance to all! Garage (rip kickstart/excuse the monologue): https://youtu.be/wG3lT3gixMw Riding (everything seems fine): https://youtu.be/ylqQpcufWzA
  20. Came home from a week of being away, go to start up my 2000 kx250 and the kickstart snaps off. It broke off by the actual kick shaft. I'll post a pic. Anyways, I wasn't to worried but I have looked for the part and Kawi doesn't make it anymore! And nothing on eBay. Figures. I saw one for a 98 but don't know if that'll fit? Suggestions?
  21. Hi guys im in the process of rebuilding whole engine and am at assenbly anywat the kickstarter shaft looks to be a bit too long sticking out of the case. Compared to my 125sx also does not have a ratchet sound it works fine and I actually saw a video that leads me to believe its normal about 1/2 " of the shaft shows when the kicker is installed???? any experience out there? thx
  22. I've recently bought a brand new 2017 YZ450f and I have troubles starting it. It takes around 3-7 (very hard) kicks to turn it on, even when it's hot. I was expecting a one kick start up, but maybe i'm wrong. I am also 5'9 and kicking so the bike is even more of a pain to kick. I normally ride lower bikes. Are there any methods I should be using? Or is this a normal thing? Thanks for any advice.
  23. Hi All, I was out riding with my son in the weekend and after about 3 hours my husky te250 suddenly died. The engine cut out, the back wheel locked up and I skidded to a halt in the sand. i tried to kick her over but the KickStart only moved a couple of inches and then stopped. I then pulled the decompression lever and the KickStart turned her over freely, but as soon as I let it go it would move a couple of inches and stop again. I am going to take it to the shop this week but thought I would see if anyone could shed some light on what may have happened. Up until this moment it had been running great and because I was just following my boy around on his PW80 I was not giving it much of a workout at all. i was riding on sand through a forestry track and also through quite a few fairly big puddles, but the breakdown happened a long way from any of the puddles. now I'm just hoping it's not too major !! thanks for any help
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