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Found 1,908 results

  1. Wanted to create a place where we can gather our info about our beloved 200's. Myself am new to the club and have been drawing information from those of you experienced 200 owners. My goal is to have this information in one place, where we can post jetting, susp, tips and tricks, and other pertinent info related to this bike. I know some of it will cross over, but the 200 is a little different from it's bigger brothers. Provide your personal information concerning setup, links to other threads or webpages, changes made and results, etc.If this goes well, would like to see it get stickied.
  2. Installed a new skid plate, new brakes front & rear, and just ordered new fork springs from RaceTech. Getting ready for the annual Desert 100 at the end of March
  3. Ok, so up until a week ago I scoured the internet daily trying to find out about the new 150 XC-W. And not from guys who ride 450's or guys who just want to grumble because the beloved 200 is dropped for the time being. The age old question had to answered: soldier on with yesterday's model or go for the latest and greatest? I wanted to hear from guys who already ride and love 150's like myself. Didn’t really find a lot of good posts. My ’17 is 1 week old, so I figured it’s time to start a thread to help others make the $8k decision. I only have 1 hour of easy (break-in) riding on the bike, so I’ll only give first impressions at this point. Wife permitting, the details will come soon! First, what’s new on the ‘17? The answer is virtually everything. You can use your old wheels and bars, but beyond that I doubt you will find anything that transfers. Maybe the pegs, but the new pegs feel great, so I’m leaving my Fastway pegs on the ’13 for now. Couple of things to note. Make darn sure the bike is jetted properly for your location. Based on the charts, the new Mikuni carb appears to be less sensitive to altitude and temperature changes, but my bike was delivered with the “wrong” needle installed. You should have 3 needles to choose from, and mine needed the leaner needle with the clip dropped one position. And beware, the numbering system for the Mikuni needles is backwards from the Keihins! Also, the bike comes with a 110 rear tire. This is not the ideal size for the 150. My advice is to wear it out and put a 100 on the bike. Personally I prefer the feel of the 100, but the real reason is that the 150 internals weren’t designed to handle the weight of a 110. Not gonna sling any mud here (pun intended), but if you were KTM and you didn’t have any other bike in the line-up that calls for a 100, what would you do? Now for the ride impression. In a word, awesome!! Very well balanced and buttery smooth feel in the pegs and bar. Ridden KTM for 18 years, and this is truly a significant step forward. The bike is lighter than my ’13 XC despite the electric start, but honestly I can’t feel a difference. The ergos however are hugely different. At 5’10” 180 pounds the ’17 just fits me better. I would purchase the bike again for this reason alone. It’s very noticeable when standing, and I stand 75% of the time. I immediately feel far more comfortable on the ’17. My ’13 350 isn’t bad, but the ’17 feels better than any other KTM I’ve owned. I’ve not set the sag of course, but at the moment the rear is way too high and stiff, so I really can’t comment on handling yet. This bike is taller, so if this might be a problem for you I’d find one that is broken in and set up for a similar weight and check it out. The new suspension feels great just play riding, but I really can’t comment until I can open it up on real trails. However, most every suspension guru on the planet seems to be saying the same thing: the new suspension is darn good at doing what it was designed to do, and many people will be happy with it in stock form. But if you want to race hare scrambles (think fast GNCC type racing) you will likely want to modify the suspension. As with all previous PDS models, the bike is apparently a little unbalanced front to rear, and this begins to show as speeds increase. For the ’17 it was described to me as “the fork isn’t actually ‘bad’, but the shock starts to overpower the fork as speeds increase across rough terrain”. I’ve had this same issue fixed on every PDS bike I’ve owned, so no surprise, just a little disappointing. Also, and this is a true design flaw in my opinion, it seems the range of adjustability on the fork compression is almost non-existent. There are tuners out there who already have a fix, but again a little disappointing for folks who don’t want to modify their suspension. My 150 is a stock ’13 XC with an SX silencer. That said, and keeping in mind I can’t really open the new bike up yet, the ’17 clearly has significantly more power across the board, with great usable torque on the bottom and a smoother transition into the meat of the power. (Keep in mind that I mean great usable torque for a 150! Doesn’t really compare to my 350 of course.) I find it much easier to play on this bike, as I don’t have to clutch and rev nearly as much. We’ll see how well this transfers to slippery East Tennessee mountain trails in a few weeks, so check back. I currently have the stock power valve spring installed and stock exhaust. I will try the yellow (more aggressive) spring after break-in. My initial impression is that with proper jetting there is more than enough grunt to satisfy 150 fans. Top end seems like it's gonna be good, but hard to say anything meaningful at this point. Can’t wait to see how it runs after break-in, and with the yellow spring and a full FMF exhaust! One step at a time :-)
  4. What can anyone recommend to help my bike(03 CR250r) climb like a KTM 300 XC? I know what most of you will probably say and that would be to go buy a 300 but that is not in the cards right now as I can't afford another payment right now. The mods that are currently on my bike are FMF gnarly pipe and VF3 reeds, a JD jet kit in it and 13/50 sprockets. It runs good but it won't climb some of the hills the 300 will and I have ridden the 300 and it makes climbing a breeze. I was tempted to try a flywheel weight but I have never tried one so any help I would appreciate. I'm 220lb rider by the way.
  5. https://www.gofundme.com/my-dads-brain-tumor-surgery Please do all that you can do for my friend Paul Santoro aka Syco, who's been diagnosed with a brain tumor. For those of you who know him you all have stories to tell without a doubt and for those who don't, he is one of a kind beyond his incredible talent and passion for adventure on a dirt bike let alone mountain bike and surfing he really does have a heart of gold! Paul has two boys one of which is responsible for setting up the above fund for his father and a daughter whom all are by his side supporting him in these challenging times and his girlfriend Chardel too is beyond words lovingly by his side. So again, I'm asking for your support whether it be donating to his fund and/or spreading the word/link around so people can contribute. My deepest gratitude to all that take time to read this post and for those who help in any way you are awesome! Thanks, Brian
  6. Curious to know if the 2017 Acerbic carbon X Brake Disc Protector will fit on a 2018.
  7. 300xc

    Time Left: 28 days and 12 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    2015 KTM 300XC. I purchased the bike brand new in September 2015 from OCKTM. Professionally maintained. 300 Mule Kit from Slavens Racing Zip-Ty shark fin IMS oversized tank FMF pipe and silencer V-force r4 reeds DID Oring chanin Dirt Trick Sprockets TMD Designs Skidplate and Chain Guide Brand new tires!! Bike runs great and has never given me an issue, new owner will be stoked on this torque monster. Hate to sell it, baby on the way.

    $6,400.00

  8. After searching forever over the Interwebs, I found out how to do it. Thought I'd summarize the process for fellow KTM riders here. Background: I ran the Michaux Dual Sport event, which uses a standard enduro roll-sheet route. These are based on odometer readings. I noticed that my KTM's trip odometer was reading long, while looking for a turn at say mile 5.1, my odometer would read 5.9 before I could see the turn arrows. This is normal, tire sizes impact rolling diameter/circumference, so the distance that the computer thinks you've gone can vary. That is why there is a WS (wheel size) parameter on the KTM trip computer. The problem is that while the manual tells you how to set all sorts of stuff like time, lap, average speed, etc. it only talks about displaying the WS and not how to change it. It tells you how to change everything else. The key is you have to disconnect the Red/Brown/Black three wire connector coming out of the speedo/trip computer. Then when you reboot the trip computer, you have more options. For me, this was the procedure: Remove the headlight/numberplate unplug the red/brown/black three wire connector press + on the trip computer to fire it up once its booted, press + to cycle through things you can change keep pressing + until you see WS blinking. press + again then + increases the number, and - decreases it. press until you like the number, for me, this was going from the stock 2250 down to 2058 step away from the bike, let the trip computer know you are done. It will display H hours or whatever your default is reconnect the red/brown/black three wire connector, on mine, the mating connector from the frame was red/brown/brown Put the feet of the headlight/numberplate into the holes in the bracket reconnect the rubber wraps I may have to adjust it a bit, fine tuning if you will. Will know more at the next official event.
  9. Has anyone experienced any stalling issues with their '17 XCF 350? I was told it could be the lean mapping of the computer for California emissions. Any thoughts, resolutions, comments? I want to love this bike, but I'm super frustrated to pay this much for a fuel injected bike that acts like a carbed bike with crappy jetting. Does anyone make a non-California mapping program I could buy? I appreciate your help.
  10. Hey guys. Ive seen a bunch of information on doing the de-smog on our new 500’s and thought I would do a write up on how I did it. This write-up is currently "under construction", it would be great if anyone with experience could chime in on some of the questions I have at the moment. And with any luck we can get a detailed how-to together for everyone to use. -First things first remove the seat, un plug the fuel pump plug (you can see it connected to the tank) and loosen the 8mm fuel tank bolt. -Remove 4x 8mm shroud bolts and pull the shroud away from the radiator. And then remove the tank. -Use a rag to catch excess fuel in the lines and disconnect. Plug off both ends with the KTM supplied plugs, then remove the entire tank and shroud assembly. -And here she is in all her glory, dirty and all. In my opinion, the best looking engine I've seen. -On the right side of the engine you will see the “———-“ There are multiple ways to remove this from the system. The cheapest way I can see would be to get a rubber plug to put in place of the rubber hose. Alternatively a large ball bearing can be placed inside the hose to block off the air passing through. -Im a little bit more of a perfectionist so I will be removing the entire assembly and fabricating a plate to go in place of the unit. This is unnecessary but I'm trying to get my bike to be more like the actual race engines, and actually remove all the un needed parts that have been put on just for emissions. 1x 8mm bolt can be accessed with a long extension and the entire unit comes out . -Here is the finished plug. I transferred the shape of the machined block surface to some masking tape by sticking it to the surface and cutting it with a knife. I then used that to transfer the shape to a piece of aluminum stock which I then cut with a hacksaw and finished up with a file and sand paper. High temp silicon was applied to the plug and it was torqued down to spec. Thats all for now. I will be getting to the second part of the emissions removal early this week. You may have noticed the "-----" mid post, I'm not sure what the actual name of this part is. As well as, if anyone has done the alternative methods for plugging this part, could you please post what size plug you used, or ball bearing you used to cap it off. I will add that to the post for reference. Final thing. I will be tackling the "tip over solenoid"? (the black part under the throttle body) this week, but i have a few questions for some more experienced KTM guys. Ive done some exhaustive research into what this actually does when in operation but I've been unable to figure it out. Is it just a resistor that completes a loop to show the ecu it is on the bike? or is there some kind of switching function it preforms? My goal here is to completely remove it from the system, but I'm unsure at this point what the repercussions of unplugging it will be. Hope this helps everyone out!
  11. Whats up guys So I've done a stupid amount of searching today just to have no luck at all. I don't know if I am just blind or if I'm actually not crazy, but I have been trying to find a graphics kit to fit my specific bike for at least a week. I am just stumped. So I bought my bike with the seller telling me it was a EXC. When in all actuality it is a 06 XC (I believe). It doesn't have the same tank design as the EXC and it also states "XC" right in front of the number plate (I know I'm an idiot but I also didn't have much knowledge of the models). I have no problem what so ever finding graphics kits for the same year bike, just none that are made to my bikes body design. Does anyone know of different years or models that have the same body style? I can have a kit custom made, but that just seems like such a waste when I feel as if there has got to be pre-made kits already available. I keep seeing kits like this: http://www.ktmworld.com/product/54808190300.html Which is a beautiful design to the graphics, but the picture that is shown is a EXC model. The XC model looks as though it has more space to cover. I've attached pictures of both the 2006 models. The XC and EXC and you can tell the XC has a lot more plastic to cover and different angles. Has anyone ever run into this problem? Does the graphics kit come ready to fit the XC and need to be cut or "modded" to fit the EXC? Any help would be appreciated!!!
  12. From the album Gone, but not forgotten!

    Looking down on Telluride, CO
  13. From the album Gone, but not forgotten!

    Sunrise summer solo ride outside Las Vegas, NV (Apex).
  14. So... i recently purchased a used 2006 ktm exc 125 and the first rides were awesome, the bike was very snappy just like a 2 stroke should be.. yesterday the bike had a normal low end but absolutely no top end power. it won't hit that powerband...it seems like it has some kind of rev limiter. i think maybe its time to do a top end rebuild and check those powervalves and perhaps clean the carb and put a new filter in... any suggestions???
  15. Time Left: 25 days and 12 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    For sale is my 2000 KTM Enduro 640. Super clean bike with a ton of aftermarket parts and extras. Runs perfect. Great commuter, fun on road and off. Aftermarket parts: -Seat -Windscreen -Bigger capacity fuel tank -Skid plate -Foldable mirrors -LED tail lights and signals -Probably more that I'm forgetting New: -Battery -Tires Extras: -Tank bag -Rear luggage bag -Extra tire tubes -Many spare and stock parts, too many to list -All original documentation and manual

    $4,000.00

  16. Hello everyone, i read some post on this but I have another question... i made an oil replace service on my 10' 400 exc. from the engine I Got black oil guessing less then 0.6L. (I used to add 30-60ml every 4-5 rides). from the transmission I got more then 0.9L and it was clearer than the engine. on the service before my mechanic suggested that oil is transferred to the trans side. Offered to solve this without taking apart the engaine,and replace some oil seal or something like that from the "other" side... on other post i saw the treatment for this is to change the oil pump and gear staff. so, my q is which way would you go? 1. Go back to the mechanic and hope for good..sometime his solution is fishy😀 2. Do the oil pump replacement parts ( on the net i don't see the difference in the parts number). 3. Open the cylinder to see the piston/rings condition... maybe it's just eats oil.... thanks a head.
  17. Hi, I just bought a 2005 ktm 200 Exc and I've been told to remove the spark arrestor in the exhaust, how would I go about doing this? Im from South Africa and don't really have any restrictions on this type of thing I've made the decision to remove it so please don't tell me I shouldn't for whatever reason. I just can't find any information on how to remove it. Exhaust is the k-300
  18. Hey all, first post, glad to be here! Just got my first 2 stroke in a trade, it's a 2004 KTM 200sx. always been a 4 stroke guy, but I've done some time on some friends' yz125's and yz250's. Since day one, i though mine sounded like a bucket of marbles, especially on decel and idle, both with the clutch in and out. Here's a short clip of the test ride the first day i got it: https://vid.me/XPgVP to ease my mind, I rebuilt my crank, after finding a tiiiiny bit of up and down play. all of my bearings checked out, so I omitted replacing them since i don't have access to a machine shop. buttoned it back up, and fired it up. https://vid.me/4gDWj the noise has improved (i think), but I'm not sure if there's something else at play here. or maybe it's just a noisy bike. What do y'all think? many thanks Adam
  19. Time Left: 9 days and 6 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Selling my 2015 CarryOn 6 ft x 12 ft Enclosed Trailer Conversion. I tow this awesome trailer with a V6 jeep cherokee with no problems. One owner on this trailer, purchased new and I've done all the work/additions with exception of the slider window. I use this rig to go camping with 1 or 2 motorcycles and a quad or two could fit inside. The dry weight is 1000 lbs. The total weight is somewhere around 1200 lbs minus toys. If you have a v6 SUV or med truck, this trailer is the perfect combination: light weight, easy to tow, doesn't take up much space, comfortable and way cheaper/lighter than the smallest toy hauler. I'm 5' 10" and there is easily another 4-5 inches of headroom since the ceiling is 6' 6". The pictures, map wall, posters etc can be taken down. Here is a complete list of what it comes with: -Rear ramp door with cam locks -Side RV door with cam lock & interior lock -Window with screen and slider -2" rigid insulation in walls, 2.5" rigid insulation in ceiling -wood ceiling (most enclosed trailers come with open ceiling) -Drawers, cabinets, tons of useful storage -Countertop for preparing meals -RV-style pump faucet and sink with drain -Carpet & vinyl flooring -4 D-ring tie-downs -Shower kit with USB rechargeable battery -Heater -Electric fan -LED lights & Dome lights -Bed for one (quite comfortable, and can be folded up to fit toys or used outside as table) -Shelves -Caster wheel & sand pad -Spare tire -Painted inside, grip coating on ramp door Title in hand. No trades, cash or cashier check only.

    $4,300.00

  20. Bought this bike a few weeks ago and just started making a weird sound when revved, hard to explain but I will post a link at the end. Never had a problem like this before only noticed it when I replaced the stock silencer with a FMF powercore 2. Mind the dirt I wanted to record the sound after a ride Any help would be great, Thanks
  21. Well there is a 200 club so why not a 150 club? This is for those of you who love your 150 as much as I do. I am 6'2 230 lbs without gear and I have a 2014 150 XC that I replaced my 300 XC-W with. I am no pro and not even a very good C- class rider. This bike fits the bill for just about any weekend warrior! Here is a clip from an outing yesterday at Demon Run ATV Trails in Upstate NY. http://www.thumpertalk.com/where-to-ride/locations/2064-demon-run-dirt-bike-and-atv-trails/ The camera does not do justice for the hills. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9D3JZwUw0Q&feature=youtu.be
  22. My 2016 KTM SX 125's seat is too narrow, so the plastic pretrudes out just where my knee is. This means it's not only painful to grip the bike, but i don't get any extra grip out of it, and end up supporting myself mith my arms, which is not exactly ideal when riding. This would not be a problem if my leg was shorter as i would then be able to grip the plastic, but as my knee is right on the edge i get no grip. My local dealer doesn't sell any aftermarket seats so i haven't been able to see if any of them are wider. They say they don't want to pack some extra foam inside as they say it wont last, but anything is better than this. I'm planning to drop by my dealer tomorrow to check out the other bikes, and whether they have the same problem or not. I took some measurements of my seat and bike so you can hopefully compare them to your bike. The seat is approximately 16,5 cm at its widest, and the bike is 18,5 at its widest. If any of you by chance have a wider seat than this please tell me, looking at bike images on google to see if the seat is narrower than the bike is not easy. And if you have any ideas as to what i can do please tell me. Thanks in advance
  23. Please post pics only. All other posts will be deleted so it doesn't get out of hand. PM the poster for more info or create a post if there are comments or questions about someones bike.