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Found 10 results

  1. MotoXRacer_19

    KTM Stator

    Hey guys I was wondering if you could tell me if this stator looks okay and is right. It’s off a 2010 KTM 250 XC. I just pulled it off the other day to grease up the e-starting gears, and I don’t know much about the ignition system so could someone tells me if this stator is supposed to look like this? I’ve since cleaned up all the black crude. Thanks
  2. MotoXRacer_19

    KTM 350 XC-F Oil

    Hi guys, probably a stupid question here, but I figure you can never be too safe. I have some Motorex 15w-50 from my 2010 KTM 250 XC (which I sold) and I was wondering if it would be okay to run in my 2014 KTM 350 XC-F which calls for Motorex 10w-50? What would be the side effects of running a 15w-50 instead of a 10w-50? Also, if you have any suggestions of good oil to run, please feel free to recommend it and give your reasons why. Thanks guys. (Attached is my 350)
  3. MotoXRacer_19

    New Bike! KTM 350 XC-F

    I did it. Finally quit beating around the bush and decided to go for it. Now the proud owner of a bran-USED 2014 KTM 350 XC-F. Bought it today, only had the chance to ride it down the road and back and I think I’m in for a treat. Previously had a 250 XC that I bought used November of 2016. Kept buying parts and constantly working on it to get it where I want it, but with out any luck so I decided to go back on the four stroke route. Anyone have any recommendations for aftermarket on it? It already has a lot including a skid plate, boyesen super cooler water pump, hand guards, rear brake rotor guard, radiator braces, mouse bibs in the tires, brand new Dunlop MX 3 S tires, radiator fan, shorai lithium battery, side grab bar, and ktm silicone hoses.
  4. I just bought a ktm 250 sx and haven't been on a 2 stroke in a while and am wondering what is the best engine oil, transmission oil, and best mix ratio for it.
  5. MotoXRacer_19

    2 Stroke Top End Problem

    Hey guys I was wondering if any of you could help me out. I’ve got a 2010 KTM 250 XC that just doesn’t rip like a normal two stroke should. When I get up to the top end power it just signs off really early, causing me to shift really early. I can’t figure out why it’s doing that for the life of me. My jetting is spot on for th altitude I ride, the spark plug is a perfect brown coffee color, (170 main, 40 pilot, Suzuki NECJ Needle on 3rd clip) so it can’t be that. (I went with the Suzuki needle because I read on here that it could give it more top end, it did but not the amount it should have) and it I just put on new reed petals for the V-Force 4 reed system, new FMF Fatty and FMF Turbinecore 2 pipes, stock gearing (13:50), yellow power valve spring (red spring doesn’t help either) aggressive engine map, and it still signs off early on top. I bought the bike used, and the previous owner had it choked up so it acted more like a four stroke. The only thing I haven’t looked at is if it has a fly wheel weight, but that wouldn’t necessarily make it act less wild like a two-stroke, would it? I need some suggestions and I would greatly appreciate the help!
  6. grantsafari

    Ktm 250 sx oil

    The owners manual says to run 15W-50 but I have seen that a lot of people run 10W-40 for transmission oil in a ktm 2 stroke. Which is better
  7. Just wanted to share a video I saw recently of some guys riding their two strokes. Videos like this help me get through the winter haha!
  8. I weigh 130 lbs and I currently have a 2017 honda 450R. The bike is too heavy and a little too much power for me. I am stuck deciding between a ktm 150 sx or 250 sx. I ride a lot of desert, freeride, and a bit of track. Which bike should I get?
  9. Hi, I recently bought a 2009 KTM 250 XC-F. Everything is great about it, although I am having a minor issue with the clutch. So I start up the bike, let it idle for a minute or so to get everything up to temperature, pull and hold in the clutch...shift into first...and...*jolt forward*...*stall* I have peeked inside the oil cap and the clutch operates fine (obviously when the bike isn't running). So I then have to start up the bike again and let it idle longer. I have found that it takes almost 2-3 minutes, sometimes i give it a 1/4 throttle to get things going faster. After enough time I shift into first, still get a little jolt, but engine continues to run like the clutch finally separated from the plate. But after this everything is flawless, clutch operates perfect. It's just with a cold engine, the clutch doesn't work. Is this normal and I have just never been told this?? I find it annoying how I have to sit there for 3 minutes or so just letting the engine idle before the bike can even move. Thanks for any info, Dean
  10. I have a chance to buy a 2002 ktm 250 sx for $2000 and was wondering if this would be a good woods bike?
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