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Hey guys I was wondering if any of you could help me out. I’ve got a 2010 KTM 250 XC that just doesn’t rip like a normal two stroke should. When I get up to the top end power it just signs off really early, causing me to shift really early. I can’t figure out why it’s doing that for the life of me. My jetting is spot on for th altitude I ride, the spark plug is a perfect brown coffee color, (170 main, 40 pilot, Suzuki NECJ Needle on 3rd clip) so it can’t be that. (I went with the Suzuki needle because I read on here that it could give it more top end, it did but not the amount it should have) and it I just put on new reed petals for the V-Force 4 reed system, new FMF Fatty and FMF Turbinecore 2 pipes, stock gearing (13:50), yellow power valve spring (red spring doesn’t help either) aggressive engine map, and it still signs off early on top. I bought the bike used, and the previous owner had it choked up so it acted more like a four stroke. The only thing I haven’t looked at is if it has a fly wheel weight, but that wouldn’t necessarily make it act less wild like a two-stroke, would it? I need some suggestions and I would greatly appreciate the help!
I'm caught between a rock and a hard place. My 2010 KTM 250 XC won't stop peeing coolant out of the overflow tube. I've used 3 different radiator caps (two of the oem 1.8 bar caps and one CV4 2.0 bar) and it still continues to pee coolant as soon as the bike starts up. I just recently bought and installed brand new radiators [GPI on eBay for $88 (the seem fine just the welds are a bit crappy and you can see inside of the tubes where the metal from the welds drooped down but there are no blocks)] and silicone hoses (profactory hoses) thinking they were the problem since the old radiators were bent in like bananas. To my dismay that was apparently not the issue. I've had everything apart and looked at. Has brand new base gaskets, head gaskets, radiators, and radiator hoses. I've bled the radiators like the manual says and there are no bubbles like air leaking into the system or being in the system. The jetting is also perfect. The only thing I haven't changed out is the oem impeller in the water pump but it looks to be in great condition. Any ideas on how I can fix this problem before it gets worse? Also, has anyone else had this problem and figured out how to fix it? I ride it in mostly tight 0-10 mph trails and also some 10-20 mph trails.
I did it. Finally quit beating around the bush and decided to go for it. Now the proud owner of a bran-USED 2014 KTM 350 XC-F. Bought it today, only had the chance to ride it down the road and back and I think I’m in for a treat. Previously had a 250 XC that I bought used November of 2016. Kept buying parts and constantly working on it to get it where I want it, but with out any luck so I decided to go back on the four stroke route. Anyone have any recommendations for aftermarket on it? It already has a lot including a skid plate, boyesen super cooler water pump, hand guards, rear brake rotor guard, radiator braces, mouse bibs in the tires, brand new Dunlop MX 3 S tires, radiator fan, shorai lithium battery, side grab bar, and ktm silicone hoses.
Hi guys, probably a stupid question here, but I figure you can never be too safe. I have some Motorex 15w-50 from my 2010 KTM 250 XC (which I sold) and I was wondering if it would be okay to run in my 2014 KTM 350 XC-F which calls for Motorex 10w-50? What would be the side effects of running a 15w-50 instead of a 10w-50? Also, if you have any suggestions of good oil to run, please feel free to recommend it and give your reasons why. Thanks guys. (Attached is my 350)