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So i just got this 2016 kx250f and i cleaned up the head and new piston in it. New spark plug and the valves are in spec. Now the problem is it wont start. I hooked up a 12v battery to the fuel pump and it pumps plenty of fuel but when i put jt on the bike and hook it up it doesn't want to go and its not even close not even a sputter. I think it has to be something with the fuel system either not getting enough or any fuel or not enough electricity to get the fuel pump to activate. Need help I’m out of ideas and not wanting to spend a lot of money on all these new parts
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I own a 1991 Kdx 200 and am currently looking to do the kx250 conversion is there anything I should know before I do it
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Hey everyone sorry if I'm posting this in the wrong place. I'm hoping to get some help figuring out an issue with my 1998 Kawasaki KX250. Backstory: Sea Level riding - Florida 162 main 45 pilot Needle clip 3rd position Air Screw 1.5 turns out Premix: Always Castor 927 at 40:1 I've been riding for over 20 years. I have owned this kx250 for over 7 of those 20 years and have never ever had a problem with it. I've never had to mess with the jetting, the needle clip position, and have never adjusted the float height. The bike has always ripped and never had a spooge issue. I have put multiple top ends into this bike over the years. In 2019 I completely disassembled the bike down to the frame and did a total restoration, including a full top and bottom end rebuild, replacing anything and everything that showed signs of wear. I have not had as much time to ride the bike with my work schedule and Covid so it spent the last year or so parked. I drained the fuel to try and prevent any problem gumming things up in the carb. Fast forward to last weekend. Took the bike out. Fresh plug, fresh air filter, fresh tank of gas. Bike started on the 2nd kick. Awesome. Idles perfectly. Let it warm up a little, give it some revs to clean it out and we're off. Keep in mind I live in Florida and all we have out here for the most part is deep sand so you have to be pretty on the throttle otherwise you wont stay on "plane" and sink into the sand. After about 10-15min of riding (I'm pretty far out in the trails at this point) it just bogged out of nowhere and dies. So I wait for a sec and give it a kick and it revs up for a second but then dies. At this point I'm thinking float needle stuck and I'm not getting fuel. Possibly a clogged jet. Waited around for about 15min and decide to try and kick it again. Boom. Fires right up first kick. Drop it into gear and I'm off again. For about 30sec everything is good. I'm still not riding it too hard but atleast I was moving at this point. Then it dies again just like before. Damn... I realized that if I waited for 10-15min I could get about 30sec of riding in before it bogged out and died. Eventually I make it back to my truck and start diagnosis. Step 1 - Pulled the plug. Nice and tan but BONE dry. Verified spark too. Ok now I'm really sure its a fuel issue. Step 2 - Start with the tank. Vent is clear - CHECK Petcock is clear, fuel flowing very fast - CHECK Fuel goes into the carb, visually see it - CHECK Fuel makes it through the float needle into the bowl - CHECK (when I open the bowl drain fuel comes out endlessly) Float needle shuts off fuel when bowl is full - CHECK (no leaking when gas is left ON) So no smoking gun yet but I ordered a carb rebuild kit, a cleaning brush kit, and and jet kit. When they arrive I pulled the carb and rebuilt it. Only I found nothing major. The float needle was not even grooved or hardened rubber, still soft and malleable. Float height was exactly spec. and 100% operational in cutting off the fuel flow when lifted up. When the floats are up (closed) there is nothing interfering with them from coming back down and re-filling the bowl. I checked that the floats do in fact float by letting them sit overnight in a small container. I replaced the float needle. I replaced every gasket in the carb and cleaned every port. I installed new main and pilot jets (same size). Replaced the throttle needle and clip (same taper/position). Replaced all the vent hoses with new tubing. Replaced the air screw and spring. (this model does not have a washer and o-ring on the air screw) This carb has a small brass power jet and it was replaced also. Bench tested the powerjet electronics. It does actuate in and out when voltage is applied. (Many people just remove the PJ all together) This would complete the rebuild/refresh of the carb. I then inspected the reeds and they looked OK for the most part. One had a very small chip in the pedal so I ordered a vforce 3 assembly just to be safe. Installed the carb and the new reeds. Also installed a new plug (BR8ES). Bike fired up on the 1st kick. All I needed to do was set the idle. Idled better than before, throttle was crisper. It just sounded so healthy. Up and down the road a few times was great. Did a couple quick WOT pulls and wow it had some power! 5-10 minutes into testing it just dies..... I could not believe it. Would not start when kicked over. Pushed it home again and pulled the plug. BONE DRY AGAIN... At this point I pulled the carb off again and completely pulled it apart once more. I could not find anything inside the carb that would cause it to not get fuel. The carb functions completely normally on the bench, but on the bike it doesn't want to run after about a bowls worth of fuel. but I'm really running out of ideas here... I have some theories: Still planning to test the stator. (Verified spark before, but will check resistance points per manual) Could spark be cutting out under heavy load? Wouldn't that mean a wet plug? Ignition coil - Don't really know how I can test this but I verified spark already. Could be that it works for a little while then doesn't after it heats up a little. Again no spark = wet plug? CDI box - again, can't really test this but I do have spark. Kill switch short - this could be a potential problem. I have had trouble with the kill switch in the past not turning off the bike sometimes, and work fine other times. Besides that I'm very much out of ideas. Everything it does points to a no-fuel flow situation. This is very unusual for this bike. Does anyone have any insight??
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In the process of installing a Hinson basket on my 03 kx250 and came across something interesting. The clutch hub nut on my bike is a 30mm. I’ve seen a couple videos and read on some forums that the older bikes use a 30mm nut, however I did read a forum stating that the 03 uses a 20mm. I went on RMATVMC and checked the OEM part schematic for the 03 clutch and it says “20mm” when you select the nut. Any idea what’s up here? Possible that the bottom end has been opened up before and transmission tinkered with? Bought this as a low hour titled 03 off the second owner, and the condition definitely shows. Any ideas or clues as to why the clutch hub nut would be a different size than stated on an OEM parts diagram?
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Hello everyone i have a Kawasaki kx450f from 2010 and the cam tiwer cap is broken and leasing Oil, i was wondering if a 2012 replacement Will fit on it because that the only one i Can find thank you ☺️
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So I’m rebuilding a kx250 right now that had a crack repaired and welded right on the bottom of the cases where the crank sits, I got that all situated and flat on the mating surface, but then noticed about 2-3 in up from that the case looks to be a little warped. I put the cases together and hand tightened the case bolts to check if everything was straight. Then I shined a light in there and realized there’s a spot about 1/2 in long on the mating surface that has a gap of about 2.5-3 thousands of an inch right into where the crank sits. Is there any way the hondabond/yamabond im going to use will fill that in securely enough? Or do I need to maybe jbweld right there and sand it back down to make it sit as flat as I can first? I already checked and there’s no sets of cases I can find anywhere so I’m kind of stuck with the problem. Sorry for the long post but any info or past experiences would be much appreciated!
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I have a 2021 kx450 and I am having really bad rear end swap over any braking bumps, acceleration bumps, and square edge bumps. The guys I ride with have told me my rear end is all over the place. Recently my rear end kicked hard left off the lip of a 3rd gear jump and sent me for a wild ride that I was lucky to walk away from with some scrapes and a little soreness. It doesn't kick up into my butt at all, just goes left to right. I'm always gripping super tight with my feet and legs trying to keep the bike center on acceleration or braking because it really is always a problem. I feel like it seems to be to the left first most of the time. (Not sure if that matters) The bike is in excellent shape. All maintenance done. No slack in the suspension, bearings, wheels etc. The bike is well maintained. I am a fast, aggressive, vet rider, 175 pounds. I am running the stock suspension settings other than forks up 2.5mm in clamps and +15ml oil in each of the front forks to help with bottoming. (another issue, hard bottoming forks) Suspension settings are: (mostly stock) Forks; rebound out 12, compression out 14, forks up 2.5 mm (stock, flush to top), oil level 325ml (stock, 310ml), tire pressure 13 psi Shock; rebound out 12, High-Speed 1.25 turns out, low-speed 18 out, sag 105, tire pressure 13 psi. I recently tried a 1/4 turn out on High-speed to soften the rear a little and maybe absorb more of the bumps but it actually made it worse. Which tends to make me think that I might be having packing issues. I am thinking I have a few options to try. 1. I could try stiffening the rear high and/or low speed compression. Maybe I'm blowing through the stroke due to being too soft and causing packing. Would that make sense if I find the front soft also? Maybe the rear is too soft too? 2. I can go out on the rebound dampening allowing the wheel to return faster potentially helping with the packing. 3. I can send my suspension away to have it revalved to be stiffer. If there is a fast rider that can comment on this option it would be appreciated. I feel like I am fairly decent rider and I ride with some fast guys but I am limited in my experience. All the guys I ride with won't ride my bike because it's too soft. I bottom out a lot, and hard sometimes. I over and under shoot jumps all the time. The thing is, it doesn't bother me other than how hard I bottom. It hurts the wrists and ankles. I am healthy, fit and strong and I feel like I can take harder landings if my suspension were up to it. Can stiffer suspension overall be the solution to this problem? Any comments here would be helpful. Thanks
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Lost my Kickstarter lever for my 1990 kx250. Trying to figure out what other Kickstarter would fit this bike if anyone has information on that it would save me tons of money and time to ride for this summer. thanks I’m advance. Really hoping to get this bike back in the trails.
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Hi, i bought a 1994 kx250 that didn’t have a carb. I purchased a carb, new piston and rings and few other things. I cannot get the bike to start, it started for a second on me and that’s it. The spark plugs wet when i pull it out, it has spark. I noticed some jb weld on the intake boot though and i reused the gaskets. Any ideas?
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My dads 1992 kx 250 seems to be running very lean but also somehow smokes like crazy. I say it’s running lean because the idle surges very badly and when I try and tune the carb the surge just moves to right off idle. I’ve seen people say possibly crank seal or leak in the cases. I don’t have the tools to pull the flywheel or enough time to take the whole engine apart and check everything over. Possibly unrelated but the people that owned the bike before us weren’t the brightest light bulbs in the chandelier and messed all of the mounting up on the aftermarket pipe causing an exhaust leak right out of the exhaust port and it sprays unburnt oil directly onto the bottom of the expansion pipe. (I can’t post the video of it running but if you ask I can send it to you somehow.)
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I am looking to buy a 1998 kx250, and I was wondering if they had any big issues, besides normal wear and tear. Any help would be appreciated thanks!
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I have been looking for a headlight that I can run off my stock stator on my 1998 Kx250 and I found one that says it runs off of the power jet for the carburetor. https://www.steahlyoffroad.com/powerjet-lighting-kit-l-4l-5 Does anyone have experience with this headlight? Will I need to do any soldering? How does it run off the power jet?
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Hey guys I have come across a 1989 kx500 with a good motor but frame is pretty well beat to piss, and since I already have a 1987 kx250 roller I was wondering if they are identical chassis and I could put the 500 in it without any modifications?
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About to pick this kx up. According to the seller its an 2008 year model (europe) . VIN: JKAKX250RRA013075 Is it ? :)
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I have a brand new off the showroom floor 2019 kx 250. Breaking it in I did a bunch of heat cycling as well as varying the rpm to hopefully seat the piston rings correctly, however, when I first start the bike, I pull out the choke (not sure if its actually a choke on a fuel injected bike) wait till it starts revving up, push it back in and let it warm up for a couple minutes, then give it a little throttle snap, I little puff of white/blue smoke comes out. it appears to not be losing any coolant or oil, but I haven't ridden it a lot because of this. I talked to the dealer about it and the said it is probably still just breaking in. Is this normal for a brand new bike? I have approximately 4 hours on the bike, did my first oil change at 2 hrs. when I changed the oil, I did accidently put too much in, but noticed immediately, and drained some out to the correct level. Could it be smoking because of that? also, once its fully warmed up and I'm riding, there is no smoke at all. could there be a little bit of oil in the combustion chamber from when the built the bike? how long would it take to burn that off? any answers are greatly appreciated.
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I have a 1999 kx250 and I have had some trouble with spark plugs and power. I got the bike in a trade for a laptop but when I got the bike it was fully taken apart so I never got to see how it ran before. I put it all together to what I think is correct, this is my first 2 stroke but ive rebuilt street bikes before so I know a little about this stuff, anyways the bike runs but it has AWFUL mid range. By that I mean if I hold the throttle wide open it gets going well (nice bottom end power) but once it hits the mid it sounds strange and has a horrible time trying to reach upper rpm. Once it does reach the higher rpm the power band seems pretty okay. On top of all that I foul spark plugs after about 10 minutes of riding. I know it cant be the jetting because I have a fmf fatty with a pro circuit silencer. I went off the fmf website for the jetting for the 99 kx250 so I'm pretty sure its not that. I do happen to wonder if it is the powervalve, when I was rebuilding the engine (brand new top end) I noticed that the teeth on some of the valves were pretty stripped so it might be something with that? Maybe it gets stuck open or something? The weirdest part is right before the spark plug fouls, about the last 30 seconds of life from the plug, the bike behaves like how a 2 stroke should, crazy amounts of power and power wheelies from the powerband. Thanks for the help -your local kx guy
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Need help from someone with some knowledge on these bikes. i have an 88 kx 250 and am looking to replace the plastics and cant really find anything on it. everything has been discontinued. is there any other years for the KX that will fit plastics with little to no modification.
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Hi y’all so I have a 2000 kx 250 that I bought about two weeks ago. Everything is good on the bike except I bought it without a kickstarter lever so I have to bump start it to start the bike. Runs good when bump started. Anyways I have ordered two kick starter levers now and they both have not fit. The first one was off a 1996 kx250, the second was off a 2000 kx250. Both of them do not fit, they are to small to slip onto the kick starter shaft. I’m confused to what is going on and why neither have fit especially the one for a 2000 kx250. My vin, air box, and cylinder numbers state that the bike is a 2000 kx250. However I cannot figure out what year my motor is, every forum I’ve looked up skips my engine number. Please help y’all Engine number: KX250LE022273 Vin number: JKAKXMLC4YA017773 Air box number: 1743 Cylinder number: 1911
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- kick starter problem
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I am trying to find out if the water pumps for the KX250'S will interchange. Seems most parts from 96- 07 will. Can anybody help me out? My plan, put a Boyesen Supercooler for a "05" model on to my 99. Will this work? Any help is appreciated! Thanks
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had some fun this winter, since i hate it soo much, and had my first go at trying to "rebuild" my kx250 that i got right before winter.. had some minor issues when i started that i knew of but once i got into it i found some major ones. for one the guy probably never cleaned his air filter so it was as dry as a bone and falling apart. when i took apart the carb i actually found a piece of the foam filter wedged in the air whole, a cracked pipe and im not sure the piston had ever been changed. either way i was impressed by the bottom end of the bike. so i really wanted to make her trail worthy and got her some nice trail mods. one thing im missing though is a kickstand. i know there is that one that attaches to the swing arm but i would rather not have one then have that thing. i swear i saw someone with a nice kickstand on here but cant find it anymore. any thoughts would be awesome rebuilt forks new tires clarke tank fmf gnarly pipe, brake pads handguards clutch cable air filter rebuilt top wisco piston and rings rocky mountain atv mc number plate graphics Sorry bad lighting on the last one but thought the white handguards looked better so that what i got on there now
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Okay guys, I have a 1997 kx250 frame and I wanna know(if even possible) if there are any 2 stroke engines besides the original that will Bolt onto the frame without any modifications.
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So i know my way around a crab pretty well and i'm very familiar with them i just can't seem to get the kawi dialed in it seems to have this unging/erratic rev thing going on when i pull in the clutch and i slow down so i'm looking for the correct carb adjustment for the bike it didn't seem to do it when it was warm out but now that it's in the 30's forties it's doing it my elevation here in upstate ny is 295' it's been around upper 30's lower 40's but i'd like to tune it so it's ready for summer because i don't ride it much in the cold so i'd like to tune it so it would be best in 70-90 degree weather since that's pretty common around here So could someone please help me out I need to know what the fuel to air mixture is needle position and proper jetting thank you
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Hello everyone I want to start out with I bought the bike a couple days ago and started the year down. When I bought the bike the kick start didn't move an inch so I figured it was seized. I started the tear down of the top end and I will included pictures to show you what I found. A piece of the piston broken off. I'm not to sure what my next step is. With this happening is the crank garbage too or is it still ok. with this happening the top end is in great shape I'm just scared of the bottom end. So many questions. Thank you for replying
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Hi all, I have a 2004 Kawasaki kx250 that died suddenly on me the other day. all i can get it to do is backfire every once in awhile. Tested the resistance and everything of the magneto and stator with a multi-meter and all is good. Coil is new oem Kawasaki the reeds are brand new vforce and the top end and carb have been completely rebuilt. key on crank is intact and all the timing marks are lined up. I hooked a timing light to it and spun the motor over really fast and found that it is sparking way to late. The service manual says that it is supposed to fire 14 degrees before TDC but it is sparking way after TDC. Im thinking its a fried CDI box since its the only thing i wasnt able to check. Any help would be appreciated Thanks
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I just picked up a 93 kx 250 traded my 125 since it need a piston no problem i thought so i went to find the piston size for it but mine is a big bored at 73.8mm i just don't know where to find the new piston i was told by the owner that i could just search 73.8 mm piston and buy any one but i highly doubt that so if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great thanks. Posted some pic below to see if it helps.