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Showing results for tags 'kx250f'.
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I have a 2009 Kx250f monster edition that I purchased preowned a few years back. Third ride on the bike I dropped a valve and cratered the cylinder head. Purchased and installed a brand new factory Cyl. head and valve train (excluding cams) installed all new parts, 5 rides at the track the bike was running like a scolded ape, 6th ride I landed off a100ft table top, gassed it on landing then hard on brakes for next turn, the bike died when I pulled the clutch in, took me over 5 minutes of kicking to get it restarted and once it started it was backfiring and died 4 times on the way to my truck... ever since it runs like hammered dog poo. I've pulled the carb off 3 times and cleaned it, pulled cylinder head to check valves, reshimmed valves, checked timing, tested all ignition components, compression is spot on. Even had a shop rebuild the carb just for good measures. No matter what I try this thing will not run properly. It will run on choke (barely) but will not idle off choke, which leads me to believe the pilot circuit is clogged.. but 4 carb builds later in an ultrasonic cleaner should have done the trick. I'm stumped, anyone out there have similar issues or any insight on what to try next? Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
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Hello all, Not sure if this is the proper place to post. I have a 2005 kx250f with a brand new head from millennium technologies. This means new valves, seats, and springs. I also have a brand new cylinder, piston, and rings. The bike is making a ticking noise that seems to be coming from the head. I checked the valves clearance and it is within specifications. The timing is also correct. Here is my question When I took a look at the exhaust cam, I noticed that the auto decompressor moves around a lot WITHIN the camshaft (So not hitting the camgear but closer to the cam lobes). I know that it is supposed to open and close when I move it with my finger and it does so smoothly, but I mean that I am able to wobble it around within the groove that it sits in within the cam. Is the auto decompressor supposed to fit snuggly within the hole in the camshaft? When I move the decompressor around it hits the cam and that causes ticking. I just want to know if this movement is normal. Thank you, Stephen
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I recently purchased a 2010 KX250F from a friend of mine that had been sitting in his garage for about 5 years. The bike seemed to be in decent shape and the price was right so i picked it up. I went through most of the bike before riding it (air filter, oil, greased all the bearings, adjusted suspension, changed all the fluids, etc) The valves sounded a bit loose so i decided to have a "Buddy of mine" adjust the valves. I get the bike back, go for a ride and the cam chain tensioner falls out while i was riding, luckily i caught it very soon after it happened and it never jumped timing. I put the tensioner back in and continue to ride the rest of the day. as the day goes on the valves sound much looser than they were originally before the adjustment was done, I decided to call it a day and tear the bike down myself. I shim the loose valves and button the bike back up, but now the thing sounds god awful. Straight up clacking coming from the right side of the top end. Since then ive probably had the bike apart and back together 4 or 5 times trying to figure out the problem. Its not the auto decompression valve, every valve is in spec, timing is solid, and the cam chain tensioner is working fine. I'm stumped. anyone have any thoughts?
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So i Recently got my first MX bike a KX250f. When we got it home i notice a puddle under the front left fork. So we took it into the local shop and they replaced the oil and only the oil seal. Got the fork back and put it on and started to ride. three or so days later i looked down and there is a small amount of oil on the chrome part of the fork. So i called the shop and they said that maybe the bushings were bad on the fork so they replaced the bushings and put another seal and new oil. Get it back and the SAME thing is STILL happening. I dont know what to do now so if you have any ideas let me know, thanks.
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Hey guys, we can really use some know-how on this issue, thank you in advance for any help you can provide! We've been struggling for a few weeks with a kickstart issue with a 2013 KX250F. My son purchased the bike grenaded; broken valves, damaged head, bad piston and cylinder (piston jammed sideways in cylinder), bad crank and rod, bad bearings, and all the other issues that go along with these. We sent the head to Millennium for repair and we also had them install Kibblewhite black diamond valves and springs. We installed a new crank, crank bearings, a few other bad bearings, new cam chain, Cylinder Works cylinder, Vertex piston, gaskets, and reworked head. We shimmed the valves and checked them a few times with the new springs - we ended up make a small change in one of the exhaust shims and they are all now within factory spec - 0.10-0.15mm intake and 0.17-0.22mm exhaust. The bike did sit for over a year with fuel in it, but we emptied it and put in rec gas (90 octane without ethanol) along with seafoam and some injector cleaner. We have just over 60 pounds of compression when we tested it. With all that said, we can not get the bike to kick start. We can kick it until our leg falls off and she won't start. Now, if we push it and it turns over once or twice and doesn't start then we are able to kick start it. If we spray starting fluid in the throttle body it will also kick start. We tested the capacitor and it seems to check out. We're not sure if it could be an issue with the fuel pump, although once it's running it runs great. We push started it up until now and we've run it on a trail system for a few hours without any issue. The fuel injection works great without any hesitation so it seems that the injectors and fuel pump are good. Once we shut it off it will kick start within a few minutes just like it should. If it cools down for about 15 minutes then it won't kick start again. When we pulled the tank off we did notice that the gas leaks out of the fuel pump and never stops leaking out. When we apply 12 volts to the fuel pump in testing it sprays fuel quite well. As I said before, once started it runs great and everything works as it should. We have a little over 2 hours on it and she's still running strong. We are out of ideas as to what the issue could be and any help here would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for the great community! Rich and Josh
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Recently got back into riding after a 10 year hiatus from it. Found an 07 KX250F for a good price. Been learning to wrench a little bit too so it's been a lot of googling and trial/error. Noticed the bike was backfiring a lot on deceleration. Search results told me it could be the valves (got them checked and adjusted by a local shop) or exhaust leak (DID have an exhaust leak - got it fixed at the same time as the valve adjustment) or too rich/lean air/fuel mixture. Bought one of those handy, flashy thumb adjusters and installed it last night. Noticed that a cable (tube?) may not be run properly and is pushing against it. It's the one in the attached photo with mesh wrap that runs over the carb and back down below it. Would love to know if it's safe to reroute that cable around the backside of the carb and what it is at all. Thanks!
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Do the Hinson Clutch covers scratch up and wear out easy? Looking to buy one just don't want it to scratch all to hell after the first ride since it is pretty pricy. Thanks.
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Hello all, its been a while since I posted, felt sort of twitch today, so I thought I would post a visual story of the journey with my KX250f. I purchased this bike off a guy who had NO BUSINESS owning it. Rode it on the street (bald tires), plastics were completely jacked up, seat was barely hanging on. The topper was that it wouldn't start. So...I got the bike for a REALLY good deal. I always wanted a KX, so I had to jump on it. Mechanically, the intake values were WAY off, thus it not starting. While I was tearing into the bike, I went a head and replaced the piston, all seals, etc. The crank and bearings were good. Along with the complete cleaning, I wanted to bike to look amazing when it was done. I always find myself not only reviving a bike from it's bitter end, but I make it look so nice, that I consider never riding it! Yea, I know, I have a problem. None the less, it got a ton of cosmetic upgrades, etc. Thanks for everyone who helped me through the process. Especially, my family and particularly, my son JP who is learning more and more about motocross. I am completely in love with the DCorVisuals Lights Out graphic kit. The matte finish looks so amazing....Thanks Jeff N. for working with me on getting this kit made for my bike. I did the best I could in ordering the pics in the chronological order...the first 2 are showing the bike to me while I was talking with the seller. Cheers!!! If you have any questions, please post them here and I will try to answer them as quickly as I can.
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I have a 2006 kx250f starts first kick when cold takes a few kicks when hot but i was out riding with my buddies and i let one of them ride my bike when he went to start it up he kicked it over and was telling me it has very low compression and that it should not be that low, is this normal or a problem im just looking for someone who knows what there talking abouts advice cause if its a problem i wanna fix it to give you an idea how much compression there is you can push down the kick starter with your hand but it still takes effort. pic for attention
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Will any newer plastics fit on my 2006 kx250f if so what year and what plastic is it ec front fender pic just cause
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So I just took off the valve cover to check valve clearance on my new to me/for the wife 2017 kx250f. Bike looked 100% stock one notch on chain adjustment from new showroom bikes and still had the nubs on very edge of tires. The cases had some scuffs but nothing to bad, looks like no tools marks on the timing indicator or valve cover bolts just oil cap. So my question is is the marking on the camshaft holders from the factory or has someone all ready been in the head? The exhaust is at 15 and the intake is at 13mm I have no clew what the 39 means?Thanks for any input also on a side note it was kind of hard to start before changing the oil but after it fired right up so easily that I was able to start it with my hand when cycling the oil thru is that also normal? I’ll try and take a vid also it’s only 19deg out!
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Hi, I’m having spark issues on my kx250f. If anyone is willing to do swaptronics with me, please let me know. Not sure what the problem is, so I figured someone could help me out by doing this. Thanks
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Hey guys, I have an 09 kx250f That I just fully rebuilt.....new crank, new bearings, new cylinder, new piston and rings with stock compression ratio, new cam chain, 2 new OEM intake valves, reshimmed, timing is 100% correct...and i still cant get it to fire up! Took the whole carb apart and cleaned it...used carb cleaner and compressed air. Still nothing. Then I noticed that when I slowly push down on the kick starter I hear air leaking from the air filter. ...but ONLY when the choke is on. When the choke is off, no air leaking. Note- i did adjust the timing one tooth over on the exhaust side and see what that does....still nothing! Just trial and error. That couldnt have damaged any valves correct?? I put timing back and still nothing new. Maybe I need to rejet? What jets are you guys running? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks
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Hi all, I have a 2012 kx250f. I recently thought I saw something weird in the coolant. I changed it about 10 minutes ago and found lots of these little flakes in the coolant. I think it’s metal, but not sure. They aren’t magnetic so if they are it’s aluminum. What can this be, and what are the causes if it is aluminum? Here’s a picture for reference.(it’s on the tip of my thumb) there were lots of these.
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Has anyone on here actually measured the oil pressure on a KX250f? The manual says 2.8 PSI but says use a a gauge that reads to 70 PSI. IMHO 2.8 PSI would barely get oil through the filter. I checked mine today after warming it up and it reads about 28 PSI which seems a lot more believable. There is copious oil to the cam also which is good. Using Mobil 1 10-40 racing 4t.
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Hey guys, I traded my used 2017 ttr230 for a nice used 2012 kx250f. I stripped the kx250f down to the frame and rebuilt it. Took top end off and the piston and cylinder were in great shape. There is no play in the crank or connecting rod. I adjusted the cam chain and valves. It starts first kick and idles perfect. I took it out on the trail for 2 hours and it ran like a champ. 51.7 hours on the bike as it sits now. Here is a video of my bike idling on the stand. I have never owned a Kawasaki, and was scared about the loud engine noise. Watched many YouTube videos and noticed the 2011-2016 make the same engine noise even when brand new. Here is another video of a brand new bike with 1.7 hours on it sounding almost the same. Can you guys confirm that this loud engine noise is just a kawasaki thing for my peace of mind haha.
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Bike bogs over 1/3 of a throttle but starts easy and idles good and backfires over that 1/3 throttle point...? here is a vid to help explain what im talking about.... It idles good and starts easy but not sure what do do now due to it running like garbage...
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Okay so I picked up a 2018 kx250f the other week and took it riding and it was BAD ASS! I have a 2002 ktm125sx and it’ll whoop that thing any day! I’m going to the sand dunes this weekend and gonna use the 6 paddle I used on my 125. Should I be using an 8 paddle with a larger rear sprocket? I wouldn’t want my first experience in the dunes on this bike to be a bummer just because I had the wrong paddle on.
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Hey guys I got a 04 kx250f had top end redone vaulves adjusted and shimed new cam tensoner and chain did heat cycles ran without choke but had to keep it going with throttle my pilot was a 40 at the time guy told me to go to 42 ordered on while waiting for that brought it to a local shop the diassembled the carb and they did a ultrasonic dip now will only start on choke and will die with choke off guy that rebuilt it says it prob spun a cam wich is common with this year but haven't even riden it just a rip down the drive way befor I took carb to get that stuff done since I put the 42 and got the dip it's been like this.. Checked for air leaks all good there Fuel.screw.2 turns out tryed 2 1/2 also Played with ideal nothing shut choke off it dies the carb slide is assembled right Help Checked for air leaks
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Anyone who could help would be a great help and im in the missouri area interested would be great too -
Hello everyone! I’m brand new here so i apologize if this is in the wrong place. My top end is shot on my 2007 KX250F. Beyond repair. So, I need a new top end with cams. Now, from my understanding 06-08 models are all basically the same. What are my options? What other years/models fit and where should I go and find something that will work? Thank you!
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Dialing idle with and A/F screw
Huey_Boondocks posted a topic in Motorcycle Jetting & Fuel Injection
Finally getting this 05 KX250F up and running. It's kicking over (most times) fairly quickly. However, when it gets going it's Idling at what seems to me to be high or will die out if I start adjusting the idle adjustment. I've done the recommended jetting from 40 to 42. My question is, I know where to start the air/fuel screw but when trying to find to sweet spot for idle where do you start with the idle screw and how do you work back and forth to find a nice idle? TIA -
Hi, guys! 1. Why the spark plug has weak spark? (tried 3differnert, 1new) mby need new stick coil? or check wires? 2. when i ride on low rpm the engine sounds and works ok, when average rpm the engine sounds like a sucking and gaging, but on full rpm its ok! ??????????? can anyone help? sorry about language. kx250f 2008
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Hey Everyone, Looking for guidance/ advice as my bike sits in a shop acting like a paperweight. I have a 2015 KX250F that is having trouble starting once I ride it for 30minutes. It starts up 2-3 kicks cold everytime and idles fine. After running for 30 minutes or so, the bike wont start hot. I have to let it cool down for 20-30 minuets before it will kick back over. During this time it will bump start, sometimes struggles but normally will start. The bike doesn't bog down during operation and will continue to rip unless I stall it or hit the kill switch. Currently the bikes at the shop and the guys are stumped. Valves are perfect( shimmed to loose side of tolerance), leak down test passed, timing is great, new park plug, coolant full, and No sensor error codes have been detected. I'm at a loss, because the bike will continuously run unless I shut it off or by dumb mistake stall it. Then it becomes a waiting game until I can kick it back over. The shop guys are starting to suspect the fuel pump causing problems but idk. What's your thoughts? Has any one has a similar problem?
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About a month ago I had an issue with my 2018 kx250f where it would redline in every gear way too early. All bottom end and torque. She will still move quick but hitting any jumps results in an immediate Bonner air. I didn’t do anything I know of to cause it, just started happening out of no where at the track. I assumed it was a clutch issue so I took all the plates out, inspected them, relubbed with oil and put back in. It solved the issue for the time being. I rode it three more separate days at the track with no problems until I dumped it in a corner. Started it back up and it is happening again. Ordered all new clutch plates and springs, put them in and it’s still happening now. Thanks for any help.
