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Found 42 results

  1. I found this bike that is for sale near me, it's a 2007 KX450F. The seller is asking $800/OBO. The reason he's selling it is because the valves need to be adjusted or replaced and it's a costly fix(He says ~$300 to fix it) and he doesn't want to deal with it. It has a clean and notarized title, but the bike only backfires, it doesn't physically run. From what I've heard from my friends is that it is the valves. But I am worried that when I purchase it, there is going to be something more costly that is wrong with the bike rather than just the valves. I can't see the bike run but if it is only the valves I would buy it in a heartbeat but I don't know for sure because the bike doesn't even run. What are some other major issues that could be wrong? Would you buy this? What are your thoughts? One of my buddies mentioned that it could need a motor rebuild which is pretty expensive. I'd love it if I could get some input from everybody. The bike is very clean looking, plastics are pretty nice and there isn't a lot of cosmetic damage to the bike. I'd really appreciate it. The two pictures that are attached are pictures of the bike. Thanks in advance, I appreciate any help with this.
  2. I have a 2014 kx450f. I'm having a gurgling noise when idling I can't really hear it when riding runs good and cranks on 2 or 3 kick when cold. I have just put a new cylinder and piston and rings in. I checked all my clearances when I put it together like valves and cylinder and piston size and ring gap and I also staggered the rings like the manual says. I also took the flywheel off and cleaned the screen it was pretty dirty this is the first time I have done this I just got this bike about 2 months ago. The reason I replaced the piston and cylinder is due to scaring on piston and cylinder when I took it apart to replace the base gasket on cylinder due to water leak when I bought the bike then discovered when I got inside I had the scaring on the piston and cylinder so I went ahead and replaced. I'm at a loss on this gurgling noise looking for some advice please.
  3. I have a 1999 KLX300R which I bought this past April (2017). I only ever ride it on the weekends for no more than an hour (time constraints). Since I bough it, it has always ran hot. The oversized aftermarket pipe it has constantly heats and burns my leg, just from those hour rides. I've dropped it twice and both times the coolant boiled afterward, but it doesn't boil when I just riding it normally. Just this past weekend (late July), I went riding with some friends and put some hard hours on it. As I was coming in for a break I pulled in the clutch and the engine immediately stopped and locked up. I got off and tried to kick it over but it wouldn't budge. I let it cool down then rolled it back and forth in 6th gear to free it up. It starts and runs smoothly now, but there sounds and feels like there is something rattling around in the top of the cylinder. What should I do? Can and should I try to swap another engine into it? What could the problem be? broken piston ring? broken valve/shim?
  4. I recently bought a 2011 Kx450 and am having some issues starting the bike. Ive ridden dirtbikes since i was little and ive never owned a four-stroke or anything with EFI. So tuning and tinkering is something I need some help on. Anyways, I can kick a thousand times on the bike and it seems like it wants to start it wont start unless I blip the throttle, and very carefully because too much and the thing will either kickback or backfire. Cant use the idle knob either because then it really pops and backfires. It takes about 5-10 kicks with the bliping method. Ive check plug, fuel filter, new fuel, everything is fine. Once the bike runs and is warmed up it dies without the choke after about 10 seconds. As far as I know it hasnt had the ECU reprogrammed with the full system, would it really make it that hard to start without a reprogram? Should I send it in or just buy a stock header for it?
  5. i have a 2013 CRF450R and for next year i wanna buy a 2016 bike . 2016 honda is off my list . i am looking for a 2016 yz450f or KX450f . my heart is with YZ450 , but from people around and magazin comment i am wondering if it is a good choice !? dose it realiy feel heavy in front and steering into corners is a big problem !? is KX450f really better !? what is your experience with YZ450f !? which one should i buy !?
  6. they just announce the first position, i am interested to read their december issue .
  7. Hi everybody, anyone sells the Kawasaki kx fi calibration kit? software cd + connection harness. Thanks ✌️
  8. Alex__

    kx450f blows up

    hey I was wondering if anybody knows why this problem happened and how i can fix it. I was riding on some trails on my bike (2007 kx 450f) and i stopped to warm up for about 30 mins. At the time it was about -10°c out. I went out to go ride again and i started to kick it over, it would run for about 2 seconds then die again, this happened several times before it finally started. I drove about 500 feet before it stopped running. I look down and there is oil pouring out of the top end. I try to kick it over but the bike is seized. I take it home and I look over the bike. It has no coolant left, the bike isn't seized any more and it still has oil but it looks as if the coolant has miked with the oil. If you know what the problem could be and how to fix it, please let me know. - thanks Alex
  9. I need to know how the length for the OEM KX450F drain bolt (large bolt) is. I am performing a case repair and will either cert it or helicoil it depending on how much meat I have to bite into. The lower 10mm on the case designed to originally be the mating surface for the drain bolt is stripped and I don't want to take any material off of it. I believe the drain bolt to be 10x1.5x22mm length being the most important part of this equation. I measure the case depth into what appeared to be a crank oil return passage which also happens to be 22mm in depth. I find it hard to believe this would be an oil return passage but it is directly above the oil drain. (I will attach a photo marked up with the portion I hope to tap into.) Let me know what you all here think. Purple Area measures 22mm from outer case to interior via calipers Red is location of drain plug Yellow is the area I hope to reinforce to insert a 22mm length drain bolt (I am however not sure if this is an oil return passage) I will be splitting my cases here in the coming couple weeks to find out what the damage is currently. Previous owner decided to tap to 7/16-14 and stripped the lower portion of case approximately 10mm deep. The area indicated in yellow was tapped through also but has good solid threads due to what I thought to be tapping too far into the case.
  10. Hey guys, so me and my buddy went out riding the other day and we had a little race, his 2014 KX250F vs my 06 KX450. I thought I would have easily smoked him. To my surprise we were dead even :/. Now I am starting to believe something is definitely wrong with my bike. The piston is brand new, the valves were recently adjusted. However my carb has been in need of a good clean. Are these newer 250F's really that fast? Or is it possible something is wrong with my bike (Clutches, carb, valves)? He does have an FMF pipe on his bike and he is definitely lighter than me by a couple pounds at least. What so you guys think?
  11. Okay guys I could really use some help on this one, I've been diagnosing this bike for almost 2 months now without success. I've spent hours on the phone with a technician in Anchorage, time searching this forum, and in the manual as I live in an area of Alaska without a dealer/ tech. 2012 KX450F set up for a Snow Bike kit I just bought this year haven't had one ride. Problem after checking valve lash bike developed difficulty starting. (Here we go I've checked the valves they are good to go triple checked...., the bike runs fine the issue is starting.) At this point the only way I'm able to start the bike is by unplugging the capacitor and hooking up 12V battery, if I dont do this and allow the fuel pump to prime at least 1-3 times bike will not start. Things I have checked so far... Valves in spec Ignition Coil Fuel pump flow test in spec Fuel pump pressure test in spec Stator Magneto output in spec DFI self diagnostic gave a water temp sensor code (replaced and didnt solve) Fuel injector ohm tested in spec Voltage to Fuel injector in spec Crank sensor in spec ECM replaced (didnt solve problem) Regulator Rectifier 12-13V output which is not in Spec (14V-14.5V) but dont suspect that to cause this problem? Spark Plug replaced Capacitor tested passed OHMs test Ground to ECM in spec I bought wiring harness, ECM, Capacitor, Regulator Rectifier, Ignition Coil that were taken off a running bike plugged and played did not solve problem. (I have not replaced the wiring harness with the one I bought) Whats your thoughts on what to test next? I've probably missed things I've checked at this point. My thought is to start back at the beginning this thing is really exhausting my patience. Anyone think I need to buy a new Regulator Rectifier based on the 12V-13V output. I've spent about 500$ on parts so far and hate to keep buying more if not needed. Thanks in advance!
  12. Hey guys, I'm in need of some new ideas to help get my KX450F running again as my patience is running thin. Approx 4 months ago I went out for a ride with no performance issues. The bike then sat in a storage shed for 2 months as I was sent away for work. It slipped my mind that the fuel may of gone stale, but I fired her up and started up 2nd kick. I rode it around the carpark and noticed immediately it was running very rough with what may of been a slight knock. I returned the bike to the storage shed and fired it back up again, noticing that the front section of the manifold was glowing red. I shut it off straight away. A friend was around a few days later and we kicked her over again, same issue however it couldn't maintain idle (idle speed was checked) until it finally wouldn't idle at all and all attempts to kick it over failed. I'm also getting a solid red light on the launch control when trying to kick over. Here's a list of troubleshooting/servicing I have carried out so far; - Spark plug check and replacement; Strong spark achieved - Removed tank and fuel pump. Pump was full of white calcification and testing it showed it had failed. New fuel pump installed and tested. Fuel tank was also cleaned out. - Fuel lines checked and all clear - Rocker cover removed and no visible damage seen to pistons/shafts - Timing chain inspected, all intact - All fluids checked - All electrical connections unplugged, contact cleaned and replaced - Tilt sensor removed and inspected, all seemed fine - Bump start failed after 10+ attempts - Sprayed starter fluid into air-intake and no kick, also sprayed directly into engine with no result - Disconnected kill switch, no start - Disconnected launch control, no start I'm leaning towards two scenarios now, but with limited mechanical knowledge of motorcycles it's hard to say i'm even in the right ballpark! I'm thinking ECU could be stuffed and that red light is code for a fault. The next is fuel delivery which has been my guess from day 1, injectors could be blocked. I'm not willing to concede and take her to a bike shop just yet so any help would be much appreciated!!! Cheers, Leon
  13. Picked up a new to me 2009 KX450F. 1 Previous owner, an older guy who has other bikes, and knows how to take care of them. This one was no exception. Some pertinent details: ***OUTER AND INNER CLUTCH BASKETS ARE NOT NOTCHED. IT'S JUST OIL SHADOW! After taking pics, I wiped off oil to be sure, all smooth. *** Here's what's happening: -clutch not disengaging, instant stall as soon as shifted into 1st, bike had rekluse (ran/worked great with it in but I don't like it and it felt like it was slipping under hard throttle), I took it out, put brand new Tusk clutch springs and Tusk clutch pack in (fiber/metal plates), still have stock OEM inner and outer hubs/basket, I've adjusted the clutch everywhere (at handlebar for fine adjustment, still stall, at case for big adjustments, still stalls), push rod, needle bearing, washer, etc. are all in good shape, clutch plates are oem thickness (micrometer measured), the cable isn't stretched, it's at the correct spring torque, clutch cover off I can see pressure plate is moving (disengaging) when I pull in clutch. Even with clutch cable adjuster at case, and cable adjuster as tight at handlebar, still stalls, or I tighten so much, it revs in gear clutch out, but plates can't engage to power engine, so it's like being in neutral when actually in 1st gear. -in the attached pics there is some weird scoring (looks like a vinyl record) on the bottom of the INNER hub, not sure what caused that, possibly from metal fragments that came off clutch cover (I tried backing out springs to see if that did anything, but ended up rubbing a circle on inside of clutch cover from clutch spring bolts touching cover, I cleaned it out thoroughly and cleaned plates, wasn't much debris and probably didn't cause the scoring, could be completely unrelated, but I'm including everything here). I didn't think it would rub the case, but I wanted to try everything. Could the scoring in the pics be causing instant stall? Do I need a thicker push rod washer (the one that goes over needle bearing)? Where would I even find one? Considering adjustment at the case didn't help, I don't see how a 0.5-1mm washer difference would make a difference. What else can I do? I guess my next troubleshoot is buy all new OEM plates (metal/fiber), and a new inner hub. I don't think this is necessary though cuz there has to be a different cause of the plates not disengaging. I think even with new plates and inner hub, it will still stall. I don't see why another set of new plates would fix it, doesn't make sense. Not to mention end up spending $300+ for nothing. I am desperate. I haven't ridden this bike for months because I can't figure this out. It's a wonderful bike, strong engine, smooth. Just this clutch thing that I screwed up. I'd appreciate any long winded and detailed answers. I'm stumped.
  14. I have a 1999 KLX300R which I bought this past April (2017). I only ever ride it on the weekends for no more than an hour (time constraints). Since I bough it, it has always ran hot. The oversized aftermarket pipe it has constantly heats and burns my leg, just from those hour rides. I've dropped it twice and both times the coolant boiled afterward, but it doesn't boil when I just riding it normally. Just this past weekend (late July), I went riding with some friends and put some hard hours on it. As I was coming in for a break I pulled in the clutch and the engine immediately stopped and locked up. I got off and tried to kick it over but it wouldn't budge. I let it cool down then rolled it back and forth in 6th gear to free it up. It starts and runs smoothly now, but there sounds and feels like there is something rattling around in the top of the cylinder. What should I do? Can and should I try to swap another engine into it? What could the problem be? broken piston ring? broken valve/shim?
  15. Hello all, I currently live in Phoenix Arizona and I am having problems with my 2006 KX450F backfire. Its rides perfectly fine and has all the power in the world, does not lack on the responsive side at all. But whenever I engine break I pop A LOT. "Poppopopopopopopopopop" and its whenever I am slowing down after either going fast or slow. I want to know how to stop that, I understand that some popping is okay, but its a lot, spits fire sometimes after going fast. I am not sure what current jets I have in the bike, because the previous owner did not know, but I am thinking of going to a 180 main jet, 42 pilot, 55 leak jet (from 70 stock), throttle clip position 4th from the top, and 2 turns out on the fuel screw. I have heard a lot of people changing the leak jet from 70 to 55 helps a lot overall. I am not sure on what to use for the elevation wise on the jets. I have tried to lean and richen the fuel screw before but nothing has happened. Any suggestions of what I should do? Just thinking of getting JD Jetting kit and going from there.
  16. So I'll give a quick recap of my problems. I bought my bike from a buddy who got it from a buddy so I don't really know what was done to it. I got it right at 51 hours so a few weeks ago I did a valve adjustment, fork seal replacement, and did all the minor maintance like oil change and spark plug, and everything seemed to be running fine. The first day I took it on the track after the valve adjustment it was ridding great until my clutch cable snapped, replaced that and went back to the track the next weekend. This is where the problems really started. On my third lap, I came out of a corner and tried to give it gas and it bogged down for half a second then came right back up. This kept happening out of every turn, or every time I slowed down and got back on the throttle. So I called it a day. The next time I went back, it was running fine until the third lap, and then it started bogging down again. I took it back to my truck and road it on flat ground for a bit and it only got worse. Instead of occasionally happening, it bogged down every time I gave it throttle. But then it will idle just fine. I've pulled the fuel pump out and hooked it up to a battery and it pulled gas out just fine. Any idea of what's going on? Please help! Thanks. -Trey
  17. started to make this noise when i shut the bike off anyone know what this is or ever run into this problem? thanks,
  18. I just destroyed my kick start on my 2011 kx250f and tusk only makes one for a 2011 kx450f would the kx450f kickstart work on my 250? I'm getting tusk because I don't want to pay 170$ on a hammerhead or oem
  19. Hey guys, I have a 2012 KX450f and it is giving me major issues. I will give you a run down of the history of it. I bought this bike a few months ago and have only ridden it really once, yes once! When I bought it everything seemed to check out, it ran fine, started fine, sounded fine, so I bought it. Took it out to ride and the first hill I hit it got really hot and overheated like a SOB and spewed coolant everywhere. I thought to my self maybe it was because we were riding trails slow before so maybe when I actually got on it it got too hot. After that though, it began to overheat every 3 minutes no matter what, I would ride it for 3 minutes, and have to stop to let it cool down because I was scared I was going to melt the top end. Got home and started inspecting, found out that oil and coolant was mixing both where the oil is supposed to be and where the coolant is supposed to be. After some research I found that the 2012 450 had head gasket issues. Assuming that was the issue, I took the head off and got it resurfaced (it was actually decently warped) and put new gaskets in everything top end related. Piston and cylinder looked brand new by the way. So I put it back together, started it up, and it instantly started spewing coolant and oil mixed out of the crank case breather hose. Like literally as soon as i started it and it would make a puddle on the ground in 10-15 seconds. I'm at a loss here, brand new coolant and brand new oil, brand new head gasket and resurfaced head, and it instantly started doing the same thing again? What could it be? Is it worth my time or do I part the bike out? I have put way too much time into this bike to want to tear back into it again unless it is something cheap to fix, if not I am going to post it on craigslist and let someone else deal with it. Overall this whole experience makes me want to go back to a 250T! XD
  20. My 2006 KX450f Started making this noise when i shut it off. Bike runs fine otherwise and doesnt have any issues. Does anyone know what this noise is or ever ran into this issue Thanks,
  21. considering riding 450s : Is 12t sprocket better for trail/enduro use !? does it help the bike not getting stall in the tide sections !? or 13t is still better and just changing the rear to 52t ? dose it help to have 12t front + 52t on the rear ? any other combination !? suggestion !?
  22. Hi, new to the page. I'm building a buggy with a Kx450f 09 engine. I've got the wiring loom, but don't know what sensors I will need to buy for it. Any that are inside the engine will still be there, I just need to know about anything that would have been outside. Like the air sensor in the air box. Is there anything else I will need? cheers
  23. 2015 KX450f Time to do a top end, after 85 trouble-free hours of trail and vet mx practice. The 2015 came with a re-designed piston for Kawasaki "box bridge design". Should I get the OEM replacement or Vertex, Pro-X? Thanks
  24. I just got done totally rebuilding a 2014 kx450f I mean all new everything on the inside of the motor. But now the bike won’t start on its own. But it will start with starting fluid and then it stays running untill you shut it off. Could my fuel pump be going out or could my ECU be bad? Iv had different people tell me different things. Bike also has a bit of a misfire when your trying to keep the throttle locked at a certain point. This is my first fuel injected dirtbike and I’m not sure what to check first and or how to check it. I put a lot of money into this bike and I just want it to run right.
  25. I have a 2012 KX450 and am going to ride it in an event where I have to put a tethered kill switch on it. After doing some testing I got a normally open tethered kill. It just has wire coming out of it though. Does anyone know where I can get the connector that would plug directly into the spot the factory kill plugs in so I could just swap it in and out as needed? Picture is of the female side that it needs to plug into. The male side is hanging next to it.
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