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Found 10 results

  1. Hi Everyone, I was going to post this in the 2T Kawasaki group; but, I think my issue is broad reaching so I'm hoping someone else may have experienced something similar. Apologies in advanced for the lengthy post but I wanted to be sure to include as much detail as possible to rule out some of the obvious answers/suggestions. Background: 2002 Kawasaki KX65, bought used with unknown hours. Rode it three times on a go-kart track and the engine shut off and kick start got hard (seized). Pulled the top end and found chunks in the cylinder head/piston and a crank with some minor vertical play. Decided to dive in and do my first full top/bottom end rebuild using a Wrench Rabbit (Hot Rods) kit and an Athena cylinder/head. After the rebuild I did a pressure and vacuum test which passed without any issues. I then filled her up with 0.5L of Mobil 1 15W-50 which I've run in my Honda XR100 and street bike Yamaha FZ-09 in the past without any issues and fresh Castrol 927 premix. Issue: After I got a few problems sorted out with the carb I was getting the bike ready for a trackday and noticed that the bike would spin the rear wheel relatively quick in neutral on a stand and when off and in gear I had trouble pushing it around with the clutch in, I could feel/hear the crank spinning indicating the clutch was not fully disengaging. When running, the bike does not stall in gear. I shut the bike off to further troubleshoot and that is when I noticed what looked like a bunch of tiny micro bubbles at the upward end of my oil sight glass. Immediately "water pump seal" leak popped into my head and seemed to make sense based on the clutch issues. I popped my radiator cap off and saw the level was the same and while running I wasn't getting any sort of serious bubbling and the coolant was not contaminated in any way (DI Water / Water Wetter). Bear in mind the bike runs fine, goes through all the gears and the clutch does not seem to be slipping at all. The bike sat for a few days until I got a chance to work on it again. I drained the oil that was previously "contaminated" and to my surprise it came out without any noticeable differences over slightly used oil. I filled it back up, same volume (this time with a measuring cup to avoid overfilling). The clutch issue persisted; but, I figured it was leftover contaminated oil on the discs. I fired it up, ran it up and down the street again and shut it off, sure enough the sight glass showed the same "bubbles" and the drained oil from the bike had a coffee creamer look further supporting the coolant contamination theory. However, again I had no loss of coolant or other indications of that being the cause. Upon closer inspection I noticed this was not water mixed with oil but rather a million tiny micro bubbles that seemed to be actively "popping" as the oil sat in the pan. The longer the oil was undisturbed the less bubbles and color there was. I read a few TT post talking about putting the oil in a clear container to look for separation so that's what I did. I couldn't see or smell any contaminates in the oil and as you can tell the oil is very new looking as it should since it was only run for a few minutes at most. I dumped the oil a third time and refilled with the same results. The bike sat again for a few days and the fourth time I switched to Shell Rotella T 15W-40. A very popular diesel/heavy duty engine oil which myself and millions of others have used successfully in motorcycle applications. Same thing happened again, after a brief ride up/down the street the bubbles were visible in the window again. After sitting in the bike overnight the bubbles are completely gone and there is still no detectable coolant loss. Before tearing into the cooling system I decided to borrow a tester from a friend. The cap vented around 16 PSI and held pressure around 13-14 PSI. The manual says 15-20 PSI is serviceable but I doubt a slightly less than ideal radiator cap could be causing my oil issue. I then proceeded to pressure test the system to 17 PSI, service manual says not to exceed 18 PSI and I saw no noticeable drops in pressure. I even actuated the kick start a few times in case the leak was only present when the water pump shaft spins, again no drop in pressure. While there I also did a compression test and got around 130 psi which is within the service manual limits. Lower than I'd expect for a fresh engine but also a cold engine that only has 0.5 hour run time on it. At this point I'm really not sure what else to check/try and want to avoid dumping anymore money into this almost 20 year old bike. Any help you guys can offer would be much appreciated! Thanks in advanced.
  2. I've had several of these bike in my garage and they are not very stable on my bike stand. They flop left/right because of the downtube and frame rails. They don't sit flat. What do you guys use to stable them up? -suggestions welcome, thanks in advance
  3. Hey guys new to the forum. Question is my sons riding 2016 kx 65 anyone know where I can buy used or new fox or ohlins rear shock. My suspension guy is telling me they are no longer making them and we would like to at least give some sort of a battle with those ktm's without buying 1 my son has green in his veins.
  4. My 10 year old just started riding a kx65. We did the throttle stop mod and had a great first day of learning the clutch and kick starting it. One thing I noticed is that she won't use the rear brake, which I don't really like. She will grab the front or pull in the clutch, which is effective for now but doesn't really inspire my confidence. Lucky she has only hit the power band once and quickly backed out of it lol. I learned the hard way with a day of wet woods riding/falling on my first day and don't really want her to have to go through that... even though it is a good teacher. any tips?
  5. So my son has a stock kx 65 bought with just a couple of hours all original, this winter I put an hour meter on it, pro circuit pipe and shorty and v-force reeds. At 20 hours did a vertex (OEM) top end kit. Original top end was flawless, no carbon, no score marks, slight cross hatch. Wanted to keep the bike fresh. Switched the green antifreeze for engine ice. Ran spring series here in NEw England most temps around 60 to 70. Now the heat has arrived in NE however in addition the bike seems to be running extra hot, no boil over or over heat but just much hotter than normal. I made no change to jetting. When bike was open crank looked and felt great with zero play. My question is why the temp change? Also just switched to Evans coolant. Any thoughts dads, thanks in advance
  6. So I just picked up a complete 2006 KX65 for my son. Paid $250 for it!!! Top end had 20 hrs on it when the crank seized. So I will be doing a complete rebuild as well as sending the cylinder off to be replated. No cylinder damage, but the coating looks thin, especially around the ports. My main question is does anyone have experience with the Wrench Rabbit kit? It's $350 from Rocky Mountain for a complete top and bottom end. All parts, bearing, and gaskets/seals. Seems like a fair price as well as getting everything, instead of trying to piece together.
  7. let me start off by saying, that i am a long time reader, but have never posted until today. I HAVE SEARCHED EXTENSIVELY. all over. i have done multiple fixes and changes. but, here we go... I road race in a mini bike series. kx65's are ultra popular and competitive due to their cheapness, speed and weight. I have a kx65, my frineds have kx65's, everyone has kx65's! lol My kx65 however seems to have no top end power. I can run lap times close to 2 seconds faster on our endurance bike (which i dont own), and I can always really feel the top end pull on it. Both bikes are modded exactly the same. except one runs race gas, mine does not. I have ridden other peoples kx65's and their bikes also make more top end power than mine does. What its doing is it feels like the top end just flattens out and tapers off right when it should be at peak power. It doesnt bog, it doesnt stutter, it just flattens out and makes no power where there should be 2-4k rpms of more power band. MODS MADE TO BIKE -wiseco 46.5mm piston (72cc), GENUINE keihin pwk28 carb - 132-148 main tested. float level set to factory specs, 42 pilot is golden, clip set to third position, off idle is beautiful, mid is great and will power wheelie shifting from first to second. vforce 3 carbon reeds. moose intake spacer, dent free factory expansion chamber, brand new pro circuit pipe. -crank, piston, and main bearings have 10 hours on them. rings have maybe 1 hour on them, plug color with WOT plug chops in fourth are kinda ehhh, not dark, but not light, but i can never jet it to the point of it being brown on the main jet. i have as of today ordered a 130 main jet to try even leaner settings...color largely remains the same no matter what, power is flatter with richer jetting things ive done to try and recitfy this issue -new crank seals, split case and resealed it, new piston rings, performed leak down test, held pressure except for at the plugs on the leak down tester. confirmed with soapy water... jetted and jetted and jetted. confirmed timing position. 120psi of compression on brand new rings...maybe they just hadnt seated yet?, new dent free expansion chamber, new head gasket, pit free head, confirmed squish at .65mm at all four corners. squish is however tighter right at the edge due to head gasket being slightly smaller due to 72cc piston (everyone else i race with is like this too though), what else...checked coolant system, no leaks, holds water over the course of a race weekend. last year i ran a grom, it was a pig, i wanted to get results and lap times like i had on my buddies 65, so i got a used clapped out 65 and built it. so here we are...makes great bottom and mid power, falls flat on the top, doesnt bog, doesnt stutter, and my gearing is a little bit shorter than some peoples. i get plenty of drive off of other riders on the corner, but they catch, pass me on the striaghts. when trying to pass people, i suck up on them on the brakes and in turns, then they leave me on the straight. its been half a season of me not getting results and im getting heavily annoyed... am i simply running out of my powerband and its being exacerbated by slightly shorter gearing? is my clutch slipping and making it feel like it doesnt build anymore power, but the motor isnt really increasing in revs...is my stator or coil going bad? who knows. im sure its engine related... any more ideas or questions and i will immediately respond because i sit at a desk all day at work, and have pretty much unlimited internet access... long post is looooonnnnngggggggg my neighbors are beginning to get pissed at me for screaming around all the time doing plug chops...
  8. Does anyone know if a kx80/85/100 swingarm (post '88) will bolt on to a kx60 (post '85) not including the linkage and shock? Trying to get some more height out of this and turn it into a real mini montster as well as a disc brake conversion atleast in the rear. Open to any ideas even if that means I have to frakenstein this thing. I realize all the other parts I will have to buy including a wheel. Just wondering if it's possible. I've never been more scared to loop a bike before, this things hauls! Also if anyone has info on converting to 65 forks that would be appreciated. Not much info on these bikes but they seem cheap to build and I don't understand why there 't a market for it.
  9. I have just completed an engine rebuild and ran into a snag. I am confused as to what is causing the issue but the piston is making contact with the head. replated cylinder, new wiseco crank and bearings, wiseco piston and new kawasaki head. everything is complete but after installing the new head and trying to turn over the engine i have found that the piston is making contact. Thoughts?
  10. Hey guys so i have a pretty interesting scenario going on here. I got a used kx65 on craigslist that needed the bottom end rebuilt, couldn't really hear it run because the knock from the crank and bearings was so bad, so i replaced the crank, bearings, seals, and gaskets. (In my college apartment living room) Bike started in a few kicks! Here is where it gets interesting It starts up totally fine but anything past idle, it really spits and sputters, and past half throttle it wants to cut it out completely. I tried cleaning the carb once, checking the plug and it looks to be burning fine, adjusting the clip position on the needle jet up and down both ways, new gas. Could it be possible the top end would cause that? I did put the old piston in it but it didnt have much sign of wear, but I could be way off. Or is there some stuff I should try first again? Cleaning the carb again? Im open to any and all suggestions! Not willing to give up now, its so close to being done! I have rebuilt quite a few bikes now, 4 and 2 stroke so i have a decent amount of fix it know how, just really stumped on this.
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