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Found 25 results

  1. Im looking at an 07 yz250 today. How can I tell if the forks are from an older model or not? Im getting it mainly for the Sss forks so need to be sure. Thanks
  2. The last time I rode my 2012 wr450f I noticed a clunk every time the front wheel came off the ground over whoops or wheelies... Limped it home and ordered a fork wrench to open them up. I put 122hrs on the bike since I bought it in January. Today I took them apart and discovered that the nut on the damper rod came lose and got beat on a little. The threads look ok on the inner cartridge, but I need to run a tap through the rebound bolt cap. Do you think the little rod needs replacing? Will blue thread lock be enough to hold it on? Should I replace the fork seals and bushings or just clean everything up and put it back together with fresh oil? Funds are kinda tight because my girlfriends birthday is coming up ?. If I have to order new seals and a driver, I might as well order a new rebound bolt for $40? Thoughts? Opinions?
  3. I have a 2018 YZ250X. As I understand it, as a "cross country" bike, the YZ250X is meant for hare scramble and GNCC type racing. While I have done neither, I believe that means it is intended for a bit more wide open, faster terrain, including some MX track possibly thrown in. I am not doing much riding like that. Depending on who I am riding with, I am increasingly finding myself on either i) tight to flowly single track or ii) more technical and rocky terrain. In neither case am I going super fast nor doing much if any jumping. The primary work my suspension needs to do on the single track is to keep traction over the many roots. On the rocky terrain, keeping traction on rocky ascents and descents. I had my suspension tuned by a reputable local tuner for my weight (175 lb naked) and that seemed to be a nice improvement over stock. Then two things have caused me to wonder if my setup is what I need: 1. I took a class with Meg "Braap" and, watching me on the suspension loading drills, she thought my suspension might be too stiff; 2. I rode a buddy's KTM and was surprised at how plush it was. I found myself wondering: "If KYB is supposed to be so great, and so much better than on a KTM, is there something I am missing?" Hence my question... For riding a YZ250X on single track and some of what I guess can be called enduro, should I setup the KYB suspension much softer. How would I know and what's the best way to go about it if so without ruining the sag, etc.? Any advice is much appreciated!
  4. Rebuilt my kyb forks. Every time they compress the air bleeders have to be released. It also seems that oil comes out as well just a very small amount. Is it normal to have to let air out regularly?
  5. Hi there, can anybody help a newbie with a KYB fork question. Got a second hand KYB forks and are lost, they ned to be overhauled but I can`t identify the year. According the previus owner they where used on a YZ250 2 or 4 stroke? nor the year or if they belongst to that bike. They appear to be closed cartridge type, means they have to be at least 2005 or newer. All help appreciated!
  6. Hey guys I recently purchased a ‘20 Sherco 3004t factory edition with the KYB suspension and was wondering if any of you suspension geniuses had any recommendations on setup for a 190lb c class rider. I ride mostly mountain single track.
  7. I have an assembly question for the forks on my 2014 YZF450 On step 27, When installing the rebound adjuster there is supposed to be a 1mm gap between the locknut and the adjuster. Then in step 28, you hold the locknut and turn the adjuster. When I perform this step I lose the 1mm gap, is this correct? OR should the adjuster tighten down on the rod and the gap remain at 1mm? I am want to get this right because of the note saying, "if installed with a gap out of specification, correct dampening force cannot be obtained" Thanks for your help!
  8. Hi everyone, I've just pulled down my KYB orks for a service and to play with the valving. This is my first time tuning shims. The mid valve was not what I expected, can anyone help me understand it? There is no progressive stack just 3x 20s. I've been reading up on TT about stacks but I'm not sure what advantage of this stack is. Is it just to soften the mid valve? MV 20(x3) 0.11 11(x2) 0.3 14(x1) 0.2 15(x1)0.3 17(x1)0.3
  9. Here are the stacks I found on my rebound piston top to bottom as you disassemble the piston off the rod. How do these look? I am mostly interested in lowering the float to .3mm as the front feels vague and dives. What shim change would best accomplish this? 2008 yz250 is the bike. I am a vet A rider doing mostly single track in the north east with some fast trails. I am 5'10" 195lbs without gear. Was running 4.4N with 4mm measured preload and 1.6kg ics springs. But I'm going to install my 4.6N springs from advice found here when I reassemble the forks.
  10. Hello, i purchased a 2008 YZ250F with zero problems until awhile ago my suspension started getting softer and softer every ride (Mostly trails, about 10h track time total) so i decided to change the oil in my forks and shock by watching youtube videos. The forks turned out great, the shock not so much. it feels like its just bouncing off the spring the rebound is instantaneous and very fast and it continues to bounce for several seconds afterwards. Being tired of not riding for a while i rode it as is once (light trail riding) and the back end was extremely sloppy and all over the place to no surprise. The shock is not leaking oil, and is holding nitrogen to the full extent of my knowledge. if anybody has any suggestions im all ears. i could take it to the shop and have it professionally serviced its only about 15 minutes away but im trying to learn to maintain bikes myself and value the knowledge please let me know what you think any ideas or opinions would be great. Thanks.
  11. I am looking to do a mx-tech lucky carbon spring conversion on my 2018 susuki rmz250 that is equipped with KYB PSF2 air forks. I’ve been told that I may have trouble removing the fork lugs to install the new lug adapter at the bottom of the fork (damaging threads). Any tips to do this job correctly? Thanks in advance!
  12. While doing a rebuild and oil change on my kyb shock for a 2010 KX450F I took out the rebound adjuster. At a point in time the aluminum collar with holes in it came out which had a small metal o ring on the inside lip of it. Well this ring ran off and left because I can't find this s#&t to save my life. Does anyone know the name of the ring or where I can buy another.
  13. I have a Yamaha YZ250F of 2016. I have a cilinder with nitrogen myself and rebuild my shock a twice a year. During the Christmas holidays I want to rebuild my shock and also add a bit of low speed compression. During the winter I ride in unofficial public sand pits/tracks with only whoops/braking bumps. My compression ajusters are only 3 cklicks out but I can turn it in all the way and the low speed compression is still too little. I notice bottoming when riding over the rollers/whoops in the sand pit. During the riding season my shock is also too soft but it is less obvious. Last summer I replaced the piston band with an original KYB piston band and the two o-rings under the piston band. That made a lot of diffrence in the low speed compression. I advise everyone that looks for more damping in his shock to replace the piston band and o-rings first before making shim changes. The piston band is cheap and make a lot of diffrence when your bike is a couple of years old like my bike is. I will change the piston band every year from now on (the price is only $22). Before the OEM piston band I used the KYB metal piston ring with teflon coating. In my experience the high speed compression is good but the low speed is too soft. I think the metal ring does not seal enough for the low speed movement. I replaced the o-rings below the metal piston a couple of times for thicker onse to get more pressure but with limited results. The OEM KYB stock piston band is better in my opinion and costs only $ 18 + $ 4 for the o-rings. I did not use a tool to mount the piston band but put it on the piston like a motorcycle tire on a rim, if you know what I mean. It was very easy and the piston band was not damaged in any way. About myself: 190cm, about 80kg and i'm not slow. I ride 90 hours a year. I have a 56N shock spring (the same as a YZ450F). I used 3.5w oil the last time I rebuild the shock and the nitrogen pressure is stock. Current settings: low speed compression 0 to 4 clicks open, high speed compression 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns open and rebound 6 to 10 clicks open. My current shim stack looks like this (stock): Rebound 40-0,20*5 25-0.11*1 40-0.30*1 38-0.30*1 36-0.30*1 34-0.30*1 32-0.30*1 30-0.30*1 28-0.30*1 27-0.30*2 25-0,30*1 Compression 44-0.20*12 37-0.15*1 44-0,20*2 42-0,20*1 40-0,20*1 38-0.20*1 36-0.20*1 34-0.20*1 32-0.20*1 30-0.20*1 28-0.20*1 26-0.20*1 24-0,30*1 What can I do to make the low speed stiffer? Thanks for your help!
  14. 2008 yz250 is the bike. I am a vet A rider doing mostly single track in the north east with some fast trails. I am 5'10" 195lbs without gear. What fork spring rate would you suggest. Currently running 4.4N with 4mm measured preload and 1.6kg ics springs my tuner suggested. I am thinking I should be at 4.6N or possibly just add a little preload to the 4.4 as they dive a little much under hard cornering and the front feels vague. Unrelated question, I had drilled the free piston with 4 3mm holes but did not remove the upper o-ring seal. Should I remove the o-ring next time I rebuild the forks or leave it. Im thinking I should because it's still gonna build air pressure because the air cannot escape those holes under a fast movement of the piston. This could make a spike in dampening even if the piston doesn't break. Thoughts?
  15. Hey guys, I recently pulled the forks apart on my 2007 YZ250 to change oil and do a check up. I noticed when I pulled the inner cartridge out that there was no o-ring on the upper part of the free piston and there was no o-ring on the lower part of the cap. I know these SSS forks are prone to free piston failures so guys tend to modify them to keep this from happening. My question is, will these two o-rings being gone affect the function of the fork or cause any premature failures or wear?
  16. Hello, I recently purchased the new 2021 Sherco 300 SE. I want to really get this bike dialled in for my riding. I live on Vancouver Island. I ride technical single track. Pretty rough terrain, lots of rocks roots and hill climbs. So my question is this. Is there any recommendations for my suspension settings? I weight 240 pounds. I think I need to order a new spring. Any recommendations for a spring for my weight? Thanks
  17. Hi friends - In the midst of a fork oil / seal replacement on my (new to me) 2006 YZ450F and I've run into a bit of a mystery. As I pull the lower caps off the rebound rod, I'm surprised to not find any "jam nut" or "lock nut" that I can tighten/loosen the cap against. Although both the 2006 factory manual and all the guides I can find seem to reference this jam nut, neither of my fork legs has one, nor what would seem to be room for one on the threads. Further, I don't see it visible on the parts fiche between 2006 and 2009. Finally in 2010 it shows up but not as an individually purchasable part. Out of some confusion/frustration I used some vice grips to hold the rebound rod and unscrew the cap. I don’t think I’ve done any terminal damage but the struggle to make it work further convinced me this was not the way it was intended. Has anyone else found this same setup inside their own forks? What’s the correct approach to remove/reinstall these without damaging the components in the process? I'm tempted to cut some more threads to make room for a locknut, but I'm confused how it has apparently worked without a locknut previously, and figure I must be missing something. A few pictures for your reference below. Thanks in advance! BELOW: the non-disassembled fork leg, note no visible threads under cap BELOW: The disasembled leg, with vice-grip battle scars. Does anything look amiss here? The adjustment rod barely peeks out.
  18. Wouldn't a shorter or longer ics spring change the position of the floating piston in the chamber? This in turn would alter the purge of oil as you are riding correct? The problem is my tuner put 107mm long 1.6kg ics springs in my cartridges that originally had 90mm plus 15mm spacer springs that were 2.0kg. Im thinking the 2mm spring length increase causes the piston to have to travel 2mm farther up to the taper where they purge which with 8:1 rod ratio is 16mm farther of rod travel before my forks purge excess oil. Problem I'm having is the forks work great when the carts are purged by hand and the rod just barely returns to full extension. But after and hour of riding the carts add oil through the seal head and do eventually stabilize to where they start purging the oil as they should at the free piston, but the carts at this point extend with force and are harsh. Ideally when I pull the carts out after riding the rod should extend the same as when I purged them and assembled the forks. I do bottom the forks while riding but I don't think the rod goes far enough in the cartridge to purge oil until the piston is pushed up farther by added oil through the seal, at this point they purge and stay at this level but the rod has significant nose pressure and the plushness is gone.
  19. I have a question about the bleed stack of my 2016 Yamaha YZ250F front fork. I only ride mx. My forks felt harsh over braking bumps and rough terrain. To try to fix this I study this forum and make some internal suspension changes one or two times a year. I had this bleed stack: 11-0.25*2 14-0.11*1 18-0.11*1 20-0.11*1 22-0.11*2 The compression clickers on top of the fork were always fully opened and still I found the front harsh on braking bumps. I wanted to soften my fork and six weeks ago I changed the bleed stack to: 11-0.25*4 14-0.11*1 18-0.11*1 22-0.11*2 I added 2 0.11 spacers and removed the 0.20. Now the fork is too soft. The front is not stable under braking even with the compression only 5 click out. I was very happy the harsh feeling is gone and I could feel the changes I made very well. But now but the fork is too soft under braking and unstable in cornering and I want to fix that. Six weeks ago I also changed the compression stack by removing 7 face shims (the 32mm shims). Question: What part of the changes in the base valve had the biggest impact on brake dive and unstable feel in turns? Adding the 2 0.11 spacers so the shims can bent further or removing the 0.20 shim so the stack is softer? I want revert a bit of the changes and make the fork more firm but not as firm/harsh as in the past. Thanks for your help.
  20. I bought my self a 2011 YZ 125 but the front forks needed re-chroming, I cant afford to re-chrome them so I bought a set of 2nd hand forks off a 2015 YZ 250. I was under the impression that they would slide straight in and all would be good but it seems not. I put the forks from the 250 into the 125 but the lugs appear to be different and the axle that was in the 125 doesn't fit the forks from the 250 - its to short. The 125 has Talon hubs which I'm not sue if they make a difference or not. I know the lugs on the 250 are stock but not so certain about the 125 lugs being stock. I'm also under the impression that the triple clamps on my 125 are off a different bike possibly because I've had problems with things fitting. I was wondering if this is an easy fix like just getting a longer axle i.e. 2015 yz250 stock axle or something harder like swapping the lugs around? Thanks 😊
  21. Hey guys. Been looking around like crazy for an answer to my question before starting a new topic but have had no luck. I bought an 05 rmz250 in pieces and after seeing how crappy everything is ive decided to build the engine and use as many parts of the bike as possible to build an 06-08 style kx250f out of it. Used to have 2 07 kx250fs and I LOVED them and the aluminum frames are cheap on eBay. My question is what are the fork tube diameters for the 06-08 and what is the distance between the triple clamps top to bottom? Just trying to figure out if my kyb's will fit in the triple clamps for the showas on the 2nd gens. Appreciate any info. Thanks!
  22. Have some damage on the outer / upper fork tubes on a '12 WR450F. New OEM replacements are pricey. Will any older YZ outer tubes work as a replacement? They are (more) plentiful on fleabay. The forks will eventually be fit on a upper clamp of 54mm diameter. So tubes being 54 or 56mm top will both work fine. Thanks.
  23. Anyone with an 18 source heavier springs yet?
  24. Rebuilding my KYB forks on a 2010 KX450F, went to loosen the nut on the bottom side and it is not budging. Tried some heat, tried penetrating oil and nothing. Anyone run into this issue or have any advice. Probably have to try a breaker bar.
  25. My 2008 yz250 forks have been harsh on logs and roots since I've owned it. So I removed the cartridges and found the dampening rod was harder to push in than normal and also extended with force to the end of travel, so rebuilt the cartridge and found nothing wrong with the ics or any seals or bands. Once rebuilt and the rod bottomed the rod is normal stiffness and extends to right at the end but just barely as it should. I used 300ml in the outer chamber and went riding. They worked great for an hour or so but then harsh again. I pulled the cartridges and found the same thing rod extending with force. I would say the carts are taking in oil through the seal head and not bleeding enough from the ics holes. Any ideas why this is happening? Couple of notes, first the ics Pistons are not drilled. Maybe drilling them would help with this. Second, the dampening rod does have some side to side movement as in possibly the bushing is worn, but the seal seems to be fine as there is no oil getting out of the cartridge and they have no air in them.
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