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Found 48 results

  1. I've got a 1999 Suzuki RM125 (PWK carb, ProCircuit Exhaust). The settings are correct for what ProCircuit has for jet sizes in my temp range. I believe it's running rich because of three reasons: Very smoky Very sooty (black drips spray out tailpipe) Engine revs very high when fuel runs out, until it's empty and shuts off. It also leaks fuel. So I'm wondering if these could be related. The idea is that because of the fuel leak, there is something (float or float needle worn) that is letting too much fuel in, causeing it to run rich. Then when the fuel runs out, it finally isn't running too rich and revs up because the idle screw was turned all the way up to compensate for the richness. I will check the float level and go from there. Does this sound like a possible fix?
  2. I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have not found any options available for the new 2018 bikes. I live and work for a new Beta Dealer (Auburn Extreme Powersports) in California, and we are having a difficult time mapping the RR-S bikes for full FMF exhausts. We have tried contacting Beta Support several times for this issue to no avail, and we typically are given the runaround when transferring to techs and secretaries. From what we can gather, the FMF flash is designed for the RR bikes, but not the street-legal counterparts. Every time we try to install the FMF map onto an RR-S errors occur, and the programmer screen goes virtually blank. We have heard through the grapevine that some are using the RR maps on the RR-S with success, but we have yet to try it, even on our own bikes for fear that it will permanently erase or damage the CDI. Any and all help or suggestions regarding this topic would surely be appreciated! Thanks, Ben.
  3. *Moved from sportbike forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  4. *Mods please Delete this thread. I posted another one in the dirt/sumo forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  5. hey guys. i have an 03 rm 125 with jetting issues. i've jetted it multiple times. currently has all stock jetting (460 main,40 pilot, 3 down on clip) and i'm running amsoil dominator full synthetic premix. was running castor 927 but fouled a $30 plug which i'm not very happy about. anyways.. does my plug look alright? should i run a $30 plug in it? i'm not trying to get it too lean, and i'm not trying to foul plugs. 440 (next size down) is too lean. not sure what to do. this is how my plugs are looking right now. there not too wet, just pretty dark
  6. Hi I recently bought a KTM 250sx 2005 and my bike leaks a lot of oil. I made a topic recently asking how to fix this and got amazing answers from everyone! And I asked this question on the other topic, yet to be answered, but I felt it was a different question wholly due to the paragraph it took to ask the question. And if it is answered there, this one can be deleted, but I wanted to know how do I tune the carburetor to run 50:1. It currently runs 32:1 and I believe the carb is tuned for that. I don't know jet specs but I will try to find out. I know you can adjust the jets via the air/fuel screw... I was told to turn it all the way lean and run the fuel, and I understand to adjust accordingly. But I just want to know what I must do to know if I should turn it richer or leaner based on what the bike does. What are the signs to tell to tune richer once I turn it all the way lean? And is there only one screw I must turn? or are there many? someone please explain all of this.
  7. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  8. I have a 1974 G4TR 100 that is running really well but I'm still having a problem with it running lean. Plug is on the very light brown nearing white and I am getting a lean bog at higher rmps when loaded down. Is it not getting enough gas or is the oil pump not dumping enough oil in? I've set the oil pump to the richer side of the mark. Any suggestions would be appreciated cheers.
  9. My klx400r/drz400e will not idle seems way too lean pops at closed throttle severe on deceleration. I've read hours and hours on TT and other sites for years before getting the courage to jet and fix my no idle hang idle and now I've made it worse jd jet kit 3x3 ce removed and 2 ports connected 1 plugged everything else the way i bought it used I recently found the o ring and washer was missing from the fuel screw Installed oe washer and oring from rmatvmc 1,500 to 3,500 elevation 2.75 turn fs 162 mj 45 pj Blue jd needle -4 I took a 180 mj out that someone installed but tbh it ran better before jd kit! It now has a bog sometimes that I didnt have with bottomed out stock needle and 180 mj I ride 100% offroad mostly single track or with my kid so slowish I'm ready to sell this green drz and go back to a 2t. HELP
  10. Hey guys, newbie here. I have been trawling through thumper talk for years for help and info reading through others forums. I decided to start a profile as I have just picked up a little 1992 Suzuki RM125 for a lockdown project over the coming weeks. The bike is in usual rough condition, plenty of stripped bolts, elcectrical tape/cable ties, evidence of zero maintenance over the last 10 years. On the plus side the tyres are next to new & the engine/motor seems to be pretty strong top&bottom end wise. I have a problem where just after the power valve opens, there is a bad surging/spluttering/coughing that doesn’t clear out. The bike seems to be overfuelling and running way too rich with trails of premix behind me. Now when I first got the bike the carb was messed up (Mikuni TM 35) it started first kick with or without choke & wouldn’t idle, still had good lower/mid power but stuttering up top. I’ve dropped the pilot jet from 50 to 45 and have the needle clip in the 2nd position, the bike starts and idles perfect now and crisp up until the top end where it still splutters. There is a 330 main jet in at the minute but I have tried as low as a 270 and the bike is still crazy rich with the nasty splutter/smoke. Crank seals are okay, not loosing any transmission oil. Reeds are perfect. Not sure what else to check? Im thinking it might be an electrical problem instead of overfuelling. I bought a new spark plug & swapped the coils from my dads RMX250 & it seems a little better but maybe it’s in my head. I think it’s not sparking up in the high rpm to burn off the fuel? It does kind of feel like a rev limiter kicks in just as the power valve opens. Could it be the CDI unit? I’m completely stumped. Hopefully someone can help me out. Thanks folks :)
  11. I have a 2019 Kx100, completely stock. I am looking to put an Fmf fatty expansion chamber as well as an fmf shorty silencer. Stock from the factory, the Kx100s come slightly rich, which is true on my bike. Spark plugs are black, and I have fouled one already. I am waiting to put the pipe on to mess with jetting, but the real question is that if my bike is rich already, and I add a new chamber and silencer, would that possibly make the bike leaner, or would I still have to go down in jets or needle clip? If so, recommendations on what jets or needles I should change to? All jets are stock, with stock NAPF needle. Thanks
  12. Hey guys question here with the bike. It’s a chinese pitbike xmotos xt125r/peacemoto xb38 motor is identical to ssr125 motor for reference. Back story of the bike is I bought it used from a guy who bought a house and the bike came with it and a cr250 bummer it was sold before I got there but anyways it has been sitting. Had old bad gas that I drained most of and the fuel filter had a lot of dirt and gunk in it that I drained from the filter. It did idle when I test rode it then it stopped idling without gassing it or having the choke on. Bright side is I cleaned the carb and the jets and now it idles and starts on it’s on without throttle or choke assistance. but the main issue is it still keeps bogging when I try to gas it all the way and I cannot go past 25mph. If I keep accelerating it while it’s bogging it’ll eventually just stop and shut off. Only thing I have done to the bike was changed the oil, changed the spark plug cleaned the carb and jets and adjusted the idle mixture screw to try and make it run richer nothing really helps. I ordered a new carb the same PZ26 carb and a new fuel filter along with a uni air filter. Also posted on reddit I was told to come here as well. They recommended bigger jets, a mikuni carb which I will get, new fuel filter and to check the air filter, most said running lean and fuel delivery issue only one person has said spark/timing and running too rich so far. heres the video of what it’s doing which is from Reddit. This is the best video as I did this today and really got on the throttle :
  13. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  14. i helping my friend with his 2006, the bike only starts when giving throttle and wont idle and back fires a lot. he put in an all ballz rebuild kit last year, and i just took the carb apart and cleaned it using an ultrasonic cleaner. i also installed a JD jet kit and new slide seal, also cleaned out the pilot port with wire/fishing line. i know its the carb because i have the same bike and i put my carb in it and it ran great. i also have his carb set up with the same size jets and fuel screw setting. Edit: it has an aluminum hot start nut too, so thats not it either.
  15. Hey guys I could really use some help. I bought a 2005 CRF 450x that has an aftermarket air filter, full FMF exhaust system (pipe and header), removed backfire screen, and removed air snorkel. Bike idles and starts just fine, but when I hold the throttle anywhere from barely at all to about 1/2 it bogs, wants to die, and backfires. Seems like lean running conditions to me because if i leave the choke on the problem mostly goes away. Additionally, if i move the air screw out almost all the way (to the point where it could vibrate off), it seems to clean up a little bit. I am trying to determine whether bigger jet(s) would fix it or if its something else. My dad thought it might be the float level, but I'm really not sure. Thanks in advance for your help!
  16. Hey everybody, first post after years of lurking. Saturday I traded my johnboat for another bike. A very rough 2006 ttr125 with a 150 big bore kit. (no idea who made the kit). She starts first kick no matter what, idles and runs great until about 7/8 to full throttle where it proceeds to fall on its face until I let up. Bike has an "aftermarket" carb that i'm having trouble identifying. The only marking on it is an "M" cast on the side of the body. the insides look brand new but the jets dont have sizes on them. I can post pics as soon as I get off work but without knowing what size jets I have i'm not sure what kit to purchase. Starting to think a new mikuni would be the best course of action. Any Ideas or discussion would be great. Thanks a ton in advance. -Ricky
  17. Have a 2015 YZ125. After a rather bad crash I had to replace the subframe and air box. I put it all back together. Kicked for 5 minutes Wouldn't even come close to starting. Had been sitting for 6 weeks or so, so I checked and Got spark, got compression, got new plug(old one showed proper color, not lean), got gas supply to carb. Anyway I lay the bike on its left side for a highly technical excess fuel purge and first kick with fuel off and zero throttle, it starts but have runaway engine condition. Had to use kill switch to stop it before it blew up. I have been reading that it could be crank seals or another type of air leak. Not really buying that because why would it start right up after simply laying it on its side. New air box should be sound and sealed. Anyway I would think the air leak if it's that is after the carburetor. On the YZ there is only the reed valve after the carb. I'm thinking crud in the carb but on a dirt bike you would think that would be a more common condition. Anyway, looking for ideas here.
  18. Hi, I have an issue with my RM 85... I bought it a couple months ago and am having a problem. For the most part my bike will run just fine. But once in awhile I will let off the throttle and the rpms will hang for a few seconds then drop back down. I know for a fact my bike is running pretty rich so it definitely isn't a lean condition. I know it isn't just me whiskey throttling because I will completely let off and it will still hang for a couple of seconds. This may be a carburetor problem or cable problem I don't know. I turned the handlebars both ways and I don't hear the rpms go up. Please help me because I have no idea what it truly is. And just to restate, it will only do this very rarely, like once a ride but it usually is fine. Thank you for any help.
  19. Apologies for the long post, but I’m including as much info as possible. I have a 2-Stroke Yamaha TDR250 1KT, same motor as the TZR250 apparently. I just completed a top-end rebuild. I only replaced the left piston as the right one look good. Probably should have replaced both, but anyway… My problem is the right cylinder/exhaust gets very hot very quickly and smokes a lot. The exhaust is hot only after 30 seconds of idling. The left remains room temperature and does not smoke. I don’t want to ride it too much in case it causes irreparable damage. But when I did try to ride her, I can only get a few hundred meters before she cuts out. I have to start again and can not get into 2nd gear before it stalls again. I’d have to limp home at a bicycle’s pace as anything above idle revs kills the engine. Not sure if the poor running is related to the hot exhaust, or another problem entirely. I’ve done the following troubleshooting: - swapped around plugs – no difference - swapped around plug leads – no difference - swapped around Carburetors (but not the Jet Needles) – This then made the left cylinder smoke and the right smoked a little, but not as much as previously. The carbs are back on their original sides as they are specifically left and right. - sprayed carb cleaner onto the carb boots to test for air leaks and that had no effect. - Raised the Jet Needle in the right carb for a richer mixture – It appears to smoke less (could be my imagination), but it still gets hot quickly. - Checked the plugs again and the troublesome cylinder’s plug looks to be running very rich (all dirty), so I lowered the needle this time for a leaner mixture. Still no difference. I removed the exhaust and wiped my finger in the cylinder’s exhaust port. Looks like black paint! Has anyone ever experienced this and what was the solution?
  20. Hey guys I hate to be the kind of person who makes these kind of posts but I’m lost and need some help. I picked up an 03 250 the other day and it ran pretty well. Maybe a little bog at 3/4th throttle, but nothing major. Went out today to take it on it’s first ride, and the bike would not run. Would kick over in about 3 kicks with choke on, idle for a second, then die. Same with if you gave it throttle, it would die. Would also give a a backfire it seemed like when trying to kick every once and awhile. The weird thing is I could bump start the bike and ride it around somewhat, if it did not let off the throttle. When it would run like this, it almost seemed to backfire too, or pop a lot. Got home, pulled the plug, appeared to be fouled, sprayed with some break clean and gave it a good clean off, put back in the bike, and bike performed the same way. Compression is good, reeds are good, air filter is clean. There is a 50 pilot jet and I’m unsure of the main as there’s no number. I threw in a 48 pilot to see if there was a change, but doesn’t appear like it (starts up but dies shortly after) The bike has vforce, pro circuit pipe, and a pro circuit spark arrestor silencer. I’m about 1500 ft above sea level and the pervious owner said he mixes bike at 32:1 on 100 octane. Any help is much appreciated please!
  21. My 2008 yz450f is running really lean. I know this because it has hanging rpms and it pops and bangs a lot, lot of backfire especially on deceleration. It barely idles and when I slow down and twist the throttle to get going agin I dies. The jetting spec for my bike with my DRD exhaust is 165 main 45 pilot 4 needle position. These settings and setting close to them do not work. I have gone all the way up to 52 sized pilot and the bike still seems to run lean. Tried all fuel screw positions also.
  22. I recently bought a KTM 400 EXC 2007 and I drove it for a while and noticed it backfires a lot when decaccel as well when revving and letting go while in idle. I have tried configuring the fuel screw but doesnt seem to help. Does turning the screw in increase richness or lean it? Can it be clogged jets or wrong float level? Or is this simply normal? Please help.
  23. I'm waxing my buddies 390s on my 2005 DRZ, and he's a much better rider to boot! 🤦 1) Anyone get their S remapped to the RE fuel curve? Now that it's getting warmer, his bike is nearly un-ridable. 2) Looking at the intake from the right side, is that black cylinder the IACV? Thanks!
  24. Long story short, my KX has been acting up lately, it seems like the jetting is constantly changing and will run lean even if i have the air screw in tight enough to foul a plug. Sometimes it runs perfectly fine, usually trail riding, but typically when I'm hill climbing or riding very hard i will get the idle surge when i let off the throttle. This makes me want to turn the air screw in to avoid a shattered piston from running lean but its not really solving the issue. Last weekend I raced and it ran great for the first 2 minutes, got the holeshot, then it just kept bogging, putting and popping until it died and did not want to start again. The one cover for the actuator rod for the powervalve was loose which i could not tighten without taking the cylinder off, could air be getting into the ratio from there even though exhaust was coming out? Also, this piston has a ton of hours on it. Someone recommended replacing the rings, as they could be worn and not keeping a great seal on the engine. Should i replace the rings, tighten the cover for the powervalve actuator, clean the carb and put it all back together or throw a new piston on now? I wanted to race this weekend which probably wont happen if I'm doing the top end rebuild. Also, if the top end is recommended, where do i start? the cylinder looks fine, do I have to get a (very slightly) bigger piston to make up for the worn cylinder edges? How do I know what piston to get and how do I know what size base gasket to replace it with? Any tips, thoughts, recommendations would be great thanks!
  25. Help, watch video with sound on. RPMs surge at idle and when holding a constant speed. I bought the bike last year as a project. The guy told me he had leaned out the carb and couldn't get it quite right. So I installed a basic carb kit with stock jetting and the bike steal runs like this. Seams to have great power at full throttle, but starts this surging after it warms up. I've had the V-Force reed cage off, the reeds looked OK'ish? (I,m just not sure what symptom a weak reed would cause) and checked for leaks all through the intake tract. Could it be a leak in the case halves? A weak reed? Thanx for your time and help!
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