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Found 9 results

  1. 1985 yz250 at 10,000-12,000 feet Trying to figure out why my bike is running rich at 10,000 feet with all my jets replaced. Ill give you my jetting specs and the stock specs. Im thinking its the reed valves but some people think its crazy that the bikes main jets and everything is so low but maybe theyre used to a different carb with less sensitivity. Also I just did a top end on it and everything looks good. havent peaked at the reed valves though. main-230 stock 290 pilot-46 stock 60 needle clip position with stock needle- top clip stock is 2nd clip position running rich and fouling plugs every ride. REED VALVES?
  2. Have a 2015 YZ125. After a rather bad crash I had to replace the subframe and air box. I put it all back together. Kicked for 5 minutes Wouldn't even come close to starting. Had been sitting for 6 weeks or so, so I checked and Got spark, got compression, got new plug(old one showed proper color, not lean), got gas supply to carb. Anyway I lay the bike on its left side for a highly technical excess fuel purge and first kick with fuel off and zero throttle, it starts but have runaway engine condition. Had to use kill switch to stop it before it blew up. I have been reading that it could be crank seals or another type of air leak. Not really buying that because why would it start right up after simply laying it on its side. New air box should be sound and sealed. Anyway I would think the air leak if it's that is after the carburetor. On the YZ there is only the reed valve after the carb. I'm thinking crud in the carb but on a dirt bike you would think that would be a more common condition. Anyway, looking for ideas here.
  3. Finally got my wife's CRF 250X jetting dialed in for high altitude trail riding and thought I would post what I ended up with: We live on the Colorado front range and usually ride trails between 7,000 to 12,000 ft. We tried to stay with stock Honda parts and not many mods. Main: 125 Pilot: 42 Stock NCVT needle: 4th clip down (But may also recomend the NCVQ needle from a 2004 Yamaha 450) Leak jet to accelerator pump: 50 Pilot Screw (TM design works): 2 1/4 turn out O ring mod on accelerator pump Snorkle only removed on air cleaner box
  4. *Moved from sportbike forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  5. *Mods please Delete this thread. I posted another one in the dirt/sumo forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  6. Hi, I have an issue with my RM 85... I bought it a couple months ago and am having a problem. For the most part my bike will run just fine. But once in awhile I will let off the throttle and the rpms will hang for a few seconds then drop back down. I know for a fact my bike is running pretty rich so it definitely isn't a lean condition. I know it isn't just me whiskey throttling because I will completely let off and it will still hang for a couple of seconds. This may be a carburetor problem or cable problem I don't know. I turned the handlebars both ways and I don't hear the rpms go up. Please help me because I have no idea what it truly is. And just to restate, it will only do this very rarely, like once a ride but it usually is fine. Thank you for any help.
  7. Okay so to start off i know for a fact that it is a carby issue. Basically i have a 1995 Kawasaki Kx100 2 stroke, and its never ever had a single issue for the time that i've owned it which is over a year. Recently with the weather becoming colder approaching winter in Australia, the bikes been really really un-happy. First i noticed that is wouldnt start like it used to so i was like no issues, probably just the colder weather, then while riding it i realized it would bog out at full throttle, like a blubwubwubwub kinda bog. After a bit of tinkering i cleaned out the carb and stuff and tried to tune it, i came accross a different issue, now basically when im riding and i get to like 4th gear, all the sudden the bike will rev out really high and ill loose all power. Then i upshift into 5th and it will be good for a second then rev out and i loose power again. Ive checked everywhere for air leaks and all that and i cant find any. is my air adjustment screw letting in too much air? and in the case of the bog at full throttle should i maybe go down a size on the main jet. Lastly theres another issue lol. when i start it it will idle for a second and then rev its guts out. Please help me, next step is to get a brand new carb i think.
  8. So I just got done rebuilding my 2000 rm 250 bottom and top end. Its bored over 2.10mm to be a 265 (I believe). It has a Pro circuit header, FMF shorty silencer, and vforce 1 reeds. Its just barely broken in maybe an hour or two on it so far. It keeps fouling plugs and sounds a little rich. Its running a 160 Main (2 up from stock) and 48 Pilot (1 up from stock) with the needle clip on the stock setting. Should I change my needle clip position? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated!
  9. hot exhaust

    Apologies for the long post, but I’m including as much info as possible. I have a 2-Stroke Yamaha TDR250 1KT, same motor as the TZR250 apparently. I just completed a top-end rebuild. I only replaced the left piston as the right one look good. Probably should have replaced both, but anyway… My problem is the right cylinder/exhaust gets very hot very quickly and smokes a lot. The exhaust is hot only after 30 seconds of idling. The left remains room temperature and does not smoke. I don’t want to ride it too much in case it causes irreparable damage. But when I did try to ride her, I can only get a few hundred meters before she cuts out. I have to start again and can not get into 2nd gear before it stalls again. I’d have to limp home at a bicycle’s pace as anything above idle revs kills the engine. Not sure if the poor running is related to the hot exhaust, or another problem entirely. I’ve done the following troubleshooting: - swapped around plugs – no difference - swapped around plug leads – no difference - swapped around Carburetors (but not the Jet Needles) – This then made the left cylinder smoke and the right smoked a little, but not as much as previously. The carbs are back on their original sides as they are specifically left and right. - sprayed carb cleaner onto the carb boots to test for air leaks and that had no effect. - Raised the Jet Needle in the right carb for a richer mixture – It appears to smoke less (could be my imagination), but it still gets hot quickly. - Checked the plugs again and the troublesome cylinder’s plug looks to be running very rich (all dirty), so I lowered the needle this time for a leaner mixture. Still no difference. I removed the exhaust and wiped my finger in the cylinder’s exhaust port. Looks like black paint! Has anyone ever experienced this and what was the solution?