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Found 38 results

  1. *Mods please Delete this thread. I posted another one in the dirt/sumo forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  2. *Moved from sportbike forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  3. I've got a 1999 Suzuki RM125 (PWK carb, ProCircuit Exhaust). The settings are correct for what ProCircuit has for jet sizes in my temp range. I believe it's running rich because of three reasons: Very smoky Very sooty (black drips spray out tailpipe) Engine revs very high when fuel runs out, until it's empty and shuts off. It also leaks fuel. So I'm wondering if these could be related. The idea is that because of the fuel leak, there is something (float or float needle worn) that is letting too much fuel in, causeing it to run rich. Then when the fuel runs out, it finally isn't running too rich and revs up because the idle screw was turned all the way up to compensate for the richness. I will check the float level and go from there. Does this sound like a possible fix?
  4. I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have not found any options available for the new 2018 bikes. I live and work for a new Beta Dealer (Auburn Extreme Powersports) in California, and we are having a difficult time mapping the RR-S bikes for full FMF exhausts. We have tried contacting Beta Support several times for this issue to no avail, and we typically are given the runaround when transferring to techs and secretaries. From what we can gather, the FMF flash is designed for the RR bikes, but not the street-legal counterparts. Every time we try to install the FMF map onto an RR-S errors occur, and the programmer screen goes virtually blank. We have heard through the grapevine that some are using the RR maps on the RR-S with success, but we have yet to try it, even on our own bikes for fear that it will permanently erase or damage the CDI. Any and all help or suggestions regarding this topic would surely be appreciated! Thanks, Ben.
  5. Hi I recently bought a KTM 250sx 2005 and my bike leaks a lot of oil. I made a topic recently asking how to fix this and got amazing answers from everyone! And I asked this question on the other topic, yet to be answered, but I felt it was a different question wholly due to the paragraph it took to ask the question. And if it is answered there, this one can be deleted, but I wanted to know how do I tune the carburetor to run 50:1. It currently runs 32:1 and I believe the carb is tuned for that. I don't know jet specs but I will try to find out. I know you can adjust the jets via the air/fuel screw... I was told to turn it all the way lean and run the fuel, and I understand to adjust accordingly. But I just want to know what I must do to know if I should turn it richer or leaner based on what the bike does. What are the signs to tell to tune richer once I turn it all the way lean? And is there only one screw I must turn? or are there many? someone please explain all of this.
  6. hey guys. i have an 03 rm 125 with jetting issues. i've jetted it multiple times. currently has all stock jetting (460 main,40 pilot, 3 down on clip) and i'm running amsoil dominator full synthetic premix. was running castor 927 but fouled a $30 plug which i'm not very happy about. anyways.. does my plug look alright? should i run a $30 plug in it? i'm not trying to get it too lean, and i'm not trying to foul plugs. 440 (next size down) is too lean. not sure what to do. this is how my plugs are looking right now. there not too wet, just pretty dark
  7. I have a 2019 Kx100, completely stock. I am looking to put an Fmf fatty expansion chamber as well as an fmf shorty silencer. Stock from the factory, the Kx100s come slightly rich, which is true on my bike. Spark plugs are black, and I have fouled one already. I am waiting to put the pipe on to mess with jetting, but the real question is that if my bike is rich already, and I add a new chamber and silencer, would that possibly make the bike leaner, or would I still have to go down in jets or needle clip? If so, recommendations on what jets or needles I should change to? All jets are stock, with stock NAPF needle. Thanks
  8. I have a 1974 G4TR 100 that is running really well but I'm still having a problem with it running lean. Plug is on the very light brown nearing white and I am getting a lean bog at higher rmps when loaded down. Is it not getting enough gas or is the oil pump not dumping enough oil in? I've set the oil pump to the richer side of the mark. Any suggestions would be appreciated cheers.
  9. Hey everybody, first post after years of lurking. Saturday I traded my johnboat for another bike. A very rough 2006 ttr125 with a 150 big bore kit. (no idea who made the kit). She starts first kick no matter what, idles and runs great until about 7/8 to full throttle where it proceeds to fall on its face until I let up. Bike has an "aftermarket" carb that i'm having trouble identifying. The only marking on it is an "M" cast on the side of the body. the insides look brand new but the jets dont have sizes on them. I can post pics as soon as I get off work but without knowing what size jets I have i'm not sure what kit to purchase. Starting to think a new mikuni would be the best course of action. Any Ideas or discussion would be great. Thanks a ton in advance. -Ricky
  10. Have a 2015 YZ125. After a rather bad crash I had to replace the subframe and air box. I put it all back together. Kicked for 5 minutes Wouldn't even come close to starting. Had been sitting for 6 weeks or so, so I checked and Got spark, got compression, got new plug(old one showed proper color, not lean), got gas supply to carb. Anyway I lay the bike on its left side for a highly technical excess fuel purge and first kick with fuel off and zero throttle, it starts but have runaway engine condition. Had to use kill switch to stop it before it blew up. I have been reading that it could be crank seals or another type of air leak. Not really buying that because why would it start right up after simply laying it on its side. New air box should be sound and sealed. Anyway I would think the air leak if it's that is after the carburetor. On the YZ there is only the reed valve after the carb. I'm thinking crud in the carb but on a dirt bike you would think that would be a more common condition. Anyway, looking for ideas here.
  11. Hi, I have an issue with my RM 85... I bought it a couple months ago and am having a problem. For the most part my bike will run just fine. But once in awhile I will let off the throttle and the rpms will hang for a few seconds then drop back down. I know for a fact my bike is running pretty rich so it definitely isn't a lean condition. I know it isn't just me whiskey throttling because I will completely let off and it will still hang for a couple of seconds. This may be a carburetor problem or cable problem I don't know. I turned the handlebars both ways and I don't hear the rpms go up. Please help me because I have no idea what it truly is. And just to restate, it will only do this very rarely, like once a ride but it usually is fine. Thank you for any help.
  12. Hey guys I could really use some help. I bought a 2005 CRF 450x that has an aftermarket air filter, full FMF exhaust system (pipe and header), removed backfire screen, and removed air snorkel. Bike idles and starts just fine, but when I hold the throttle anywhere from barely at all to about 1/2 it bogs, wants to die, and backfires. Seems like lean running conditions to me because if i leave the choke on the problem mostly goes away. Additionally, if i move the air screw out almost all the way (to the point where it could vibrate off), it seems to clean up a little bit. I am trying to determine whether bigger jet(s) would fix it or if its something else. My dad thought it might be the float level, but I'm really not sure. Thanks in advance for your help!
  13. Apologies for the long post, but I’m including as much info as possible. I have a 2-Stroke Yamaha TDR250 1KT, same motor as the TZR250 apparently. I just completed a top-end rebuild. I only replaced the left piston as the right one look good. Probably should have replaced both, but anyway… My problem is the right cylinder/exhaust gets very hot very quickly and smokes a lot. The exhaust is hot only after 30 seconds of idling. The left remains room temperature and does not smoke. I don’t want to ride it too much in case it causes irreparable damage. But when I did try to ride her, I can only get a few hundred meters before she cuts out. I have to start again and can not get into 2nd gear before it stalls again. I’d have to limp home at a bicycle’s pace as anything above idle revs kills the engine. Not sure if the poor running is related to the hot exhaust, or another problem entirely. I’ve done the following troubleshooting: - swapped around plugs – no difference - swapped around plug leads – no difference - swapped around Carburetors (but not the Jet Needles) – This then made the left cylinder smoke and the right smoked a little, but not as much as previously. The carbs are back on their original sides as they are specifically left and right. - sprayed carb cleaner onto the carb boots to test for air leaks and that had no effect. - Raised the Jet Needle in the right carb for a richer mixture – It appears to smoke less (could be my imagination), but it still gets hot quickly. - Checked the plugs again and the troublesome cylinder’s plug looks to be running very rich (all dirty), so I lowered the needle this time for a leaner mixture. Still no difference. I removed the exhaust and wiped my finger in the cylinder’s exhaust port. Looks like black paint! Has anyone ever experienced this and what was the solution?
  14. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  15. i helping my friend with his 2006, the bike only starts when giving throttle and wont idle and back fires a lot. he put in an all ballz rebuild kit last year, and i just took the carb apart and cleaned it using an ultrasonic cleaner. i also installed a JD jet kit and new slide seal, also cleaned out the pilot port with wire/fishing line. i know its the carb because i have the same bike and i put my carb in it and it ran great. i also have his carb set up with the same size jets and fuel screw setting. Edit: it has an aluminum hot start nut too, so thats not it either.
  16. Hey guys question here with the bike. It’s a chinese pitbike xmotos xt125r/peacemoto xb38 motor is identical to ssr125 motor for reference. Back story of the bike is I bought it used from a guy who bought a house and the bike came with it and a cr250 bummer it was sold before I got there but anyways it has been sitting. Had old bad gas that I drained most of and the fuel filter had a lot of dirt and gunk in it that I drained from the filter. It did idle when I test rode it then it stopped idling without gassing it or having the choke on. Bright side is I cleaned the carb and the jets and now it idles and starts on it’s on without throttle or choke assistance. but the main issue is it still keeps bogging when I try to gas it all the way and I cannot go past 25mph. If I keep accelerating it while it’s bogging it’ll eventually just stop and shut off. Only thing I have done to the bike was changed the oil, changed the spark plug cleaned the carb and jets and adjusted the idle mixture screw to try and make it run richer nothing really helps. I ordered a new carb the same PZ26 carb and a new fuel filter along with a uni air filter. Also posted on reddit I was told to come here as well. They recommended bigger jets, a mikuni carb which I will get, new fuel filter and to check the air filter, most said running lean and fuel delivery issue only one person has said spark/timing and running too rich so far. heres the video of what it’s doing which is from Reddit. This is the best video as I did this today and really got on the throttle :
  17. My 2008 yz450f is running really lean. I know this because it has hanging rpms and it pops and bangs a lot, lot of backfire especially on deceleration. It barely idles and when I slow down and twist the throttle to get going agin I dies. The jetting spec for my bike with my DRD exhaust is 165 main 45 pilot 4 needle position. These settings and setting close to them do not work. I have gone all the way up to 52 sized pilot and the bike still seems to run lean. Tried all fuel screw positions also.
  18. Help, watch video with sound on. RPMs surge at idle and when holding a constant speed. I bought the bike last year as a project. The guy told me he had leaned out the carb and couldn't get it quite right. So I installed a basic carb kit with stock jetting and the bike steal runs like this. Seams to have great power at full throttle, but starts this surging after it warms up. I've had the V-Force reed cage off, the reeds looked OK'ish? (I,m just not sure what symptom a weak reed would cause) and checked for leaks all through the intake tract. Could it be a leak in the case halves? A weak reed? Thanx for your time and help!
  19. Hello, today I started to do further research on my issue. I have a 04 yz250f and I feel as if it’s overheating I say this because when the bike is in nuetral coasting or idle coolant flows out the overflow. So now I’m pretty sure I know what’s wrong and it’s that I’m too lean the bike backfires on deceleration but the throttle response is perfect. Also, the motor seems to remain at high rpms after the clutch is engaged. I took the carb apart and this is what I found. (I do trail riding, I know the radiators are getting enough air flow I’m not going slow enough for that to be the issue that’s what I think at least) Main jet—178 pilot jet-72 Jet needle groove position-4th down Pilot Screw Adjustment- The bike stays running at about 2 turns out but to have more throttle control best would be 3-3.5 basically all the way out. P.s I’m not very familiar with these carbs so if you can leave some information on how theses things work and what I should do, the bike starts up first kick clutch engages every time the bike just gets extremely hot.
  20. I need to know the difference between having a lean gas mix and a lean fuel/air ratio. I know that 100:1 is leaner than 50:1 which is leaner than 32:1, and I have an idea of what leaner fuel/air looks like, or too lean, but what are the signs of the gas mixture being too lean? I am currently switching my gas mixture from 32:1 to 50:1 and I ride a KTM 250sx and I will tune my carb, etc. I made a whole thread on this already and I'm pretty positive the bike will run 50:1 fine since the recommended is 60:1 without having to jet it due to the fact that the guy never jetted the carb for 32:1, it is still jetted for 60:1. I just need to know what the signs of lean gas or fuel/air mixture and the difference. I shouldn't even need to know the sign of lean gas, if there are any... I don't wanna &%$#@! up the bike. I would at least like to know the sign of lean air/fuel ratio so that I can adjust since idk the signs of what I would see if it is too lean or rich.
  21. Finally got my wife's CRF 250X jetting dialed in for high altitude trail riding and thought I would post what I ended up with: We live on the Colorado front range and usually ride trails between 7,000 to 12,000 ft. We tried to stay with stock Honda parts and not many mods. Main: 125 Pilot: 42 Stock NCVT needle: 4th clip down (But may also recomend the NCVQ needle from a 2004 Yamaha 450) Leak jet to accelerator pump: 50 Pilot Screw (TM design works): 2 1/4 turn out O ring mod on accelerator pump Snorkle only removed on air cleaner box
  22. I recently bought a KTM 400 EXC 2007 and I drove it for a while and noticed it backfires a lot when decaccel as well when revving and letting go while in idle. I have tried configuring the fuel screw but doesnt seem to help. Does turning the screw in increase richness or lean it? Can it be clogged jets or wrong float level? Or is this simply normal? Please help.
  23. I'm waxing my buddies 390s on my 2005 DRZ, and he's a much better rider to boot! 1) Anyone get their S remapped to the RE fuel curve? Now that it's getting warmer, his bike is nearly un-ridable. 2) Looking at the intake from the right side, is that black cylinder the IACV? Thanks!
  24. Long story short, my KX has been acting up lately, it seems like the jetting is constantly changing and will run lean even if i have the air screw in tight enough to foul a plug. Sometimes it runs perfectly fine, usually trail riding, but typically when I'm hill climbing or riding very hard i will get the idle surge when i let off the throttle. This makes me want to turn the air screw in to avoid a shattered piston from running lean but its not really solving the issue. Last weekend I raced and it ran great for the first 2 minutes, got the holeshot, then it just kept bogging, putting and popping until it died and did not want to start again. The one cover for the actuator rod for the powervalve was loose which i could not tighten without taking the cylinder off, could air be getting into the ratio from there even though exhaust was coming out? Also, this piston has a ton of hours on it. Someone recommended replacing the rings, as they could be worn and not keeping a great seal on the engine. Should i replace the rings, tighten the cover for the powervalve actuator, clean the carb and put it all back together or throw a new piston on now? I wanted to race this weekend which probably wont happen if I'm doing the top end rebuild. Also, if the top end is recommended, where do i start? the cylinder looks fine, do I have to get a (very slightly) bigger piston to make up for the worn cylinder edges? How do I know what piston to get and how do I know what size base gasket to replace it with? Any tips, thoughts, recommendations would be great thanks!
  25. I recently purchased a 2007 TTR 230. Rode it a few times and had to put in a new petcock- I have also changed the oil/filter, spark plug, and battery. It starts up great but the exhaust quickly becomes a cherry red color and looks to be sparking. Took the carb apart last night- everything seemed clean and fine. Any advice would be appreciated. On the verge of taking it in, but would prefer to fix in house if possible.
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