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Found 28 results

  1. idratherberiding

    2 Stroke Winter Jetting

    Just bought a 2007 YZ250, my first 2 stroke. Want to stud the tires and ride it through the winter. Elevation is about 300m above sea level. Temperature ranges 0 to -20 degrees Celcius. What should I jet it at for these temperatures? Do I change needle position also? Not sure what current jetting is, oil ratio is 32:1 and tons of spooge out the exhaust pipe. Thanks!
  2. Most nutritional and hydration errors occur because the food and water is not readily available. If you are hungry and you don’t have healthy snacks and meals to consume, you will inevitably end up going through a drive through to satisfy your hunger – this is completely different than eating fast food because you don’t care about your health. Speaking of being hungry, this is a sensation that you should NOT be experiencing on a daily basis. When it comes to nutrition for both your health and performance, there are two simple questions that you have to ask yourself: 1. Am I eating fresh fruit, vegetables and high quality fat every two (2) hours? 2. Am I getting hungry before the two (2) hour window of time has transpired? Think about this for a minute, if you are eating nutrient dense fruits, vegetables and protein every two hours (this stabilizes your blood sugar levels along with satisfies your appetite) and you are still getting hungry – YOU NEED TO EAT MORE FOOD! This sounds completely contrary to the mainstream mindset; however, being hungry will undermine your efforts at each workout. Think about your car, if you have a half a tank of gas and you want to drive 1000 miles, you can’t without filling up your gas tank. Your body is the same one but with one extra catch. To improve your workout quality, your brain and muscles need adequate sugar to complete the workout and raise its fitness to the next level. Without the new threshold of workload, the muscles will not be stimulated enough to create an adaptation – the result is a performance plateau. When it comes to determining how much protein, carbohydrates and fats you have to consume refrain from pulling out a scale and reading labels extensively. Instead, focus on your hunger levels (there shouldn’t be any), evaluate your performance results (consistency and improvement) and your biofeedback (quality of sleep, resting heart rate, personality characteristics). If these evaluation elements are not consistently positive, you need to eat more food. If you begin to eat too much (this rarely happens), you will get a clear notice: your clothes will begin to wear tight. Remember, stress comes in many forms: relationship, work, financial, workouts, hydration, hunger, etc. The value of your health and wellnexs is finding the correct balance of volume & intensity of training to maximize your training efforts and achieve your personal goals. Ironically, it all starts with consuming adequate amounts of high quality food, remember it is all about Working Smart, Not Hard! Yours in health and sport, -Coach Robb
  3. moneypit

    new 2017 crf450x glowing exhaust

    Hello all. I just wanted to get some other crf450x owner input on something my brother noticed on my new bike. So this is on a newly purchased 2017 crf450x with about 4 miles on it currently. while riding around with my brother in my inlaws yard he pointed out that the head pipe was starting to glow red. I'm wondering if this is because the bike is new and is a bit hotter due to breaking in or if there is possibly a different issue going on with this new bike. Most of what i read suggests a lean issue presenting it self with the carb. i just installed a trail tech vapor kit on the bike but i doubt that would influence anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. hopefully this wont abort our first trip out to go ride it this weekend.
  4. Josh Johnson

    RM 250 JETTING HELP PLEASE!

    So I just got done rebuilding my 2000 rm 250 bottom and top end. Its bored over 2.10mm to be a 265 (I believe). It has a Pro circuit header, FMF shorty silencer, and vforce 1 reeds. Its just barely broken in maybe an hour or two on it so far. It keeps fouling plugs and sounds a little rich. Its running a 160 Main (2 up from stock) and 48 Pilot (1 up from stock) with the needle clip on the stock setting. Should I change my needle clip position? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated!
  5. I have a 2018 KTM exc 500 with the vortex, aftermarket pipe, reed valve removed and a Uni filter. I did the emissions block off which stopped the backfiring and missing. It has run great for months yet recently the backfiring on deceleration and missing just off idle has started again. I double checked to make sure that the emission hose by the spark plug is blocked off and it is. Do you have any idea what might be causing this backfiring and missing just off of idle? Thank you in advance
  6. 1985 yz250 at 10,000-12,000 feet Trying to figure out why my bike is running rich at 10,000 feet with all my jets replaced. Ill give you my jetting specs and the stock specs. Im thinking its the reed valves but some people think its crazy that the bikes main jets and everything is so low but maybe theyre used to a different carb with less sensitivity. Also I just did a top end on it and everything looks good. havent peaked at the reed valves though. main-230 stock 290 pilot-46 stock 60 needle clip position with stock needle- top clip stock is 2nd clip position running rich and fouling plugs every ride. REED VALVES?
  7. jakquezz

    JD Jetting worse than before

    Hey guys, I recently bought a 2001 DRZ400s with 5000 miles and I'm having some trouble jetting it properly even after buying and installing the JD jet kit. Important bits: The bike has a stock exhaust and I did the 3x3 airbox mod. Previously it had the 22.5 pilot, 162 main, and the fuel screw had been adjusted (brass removed but stock screw). With this setup it was a quick little bike, but it popped A LOT on deceleration and it missed a little on idle. Now I've installed the JD kit with 22.5 pilot, 150 main, extended screw at 2.5 turns out, and blue needle at 3rd position. Currently with this setup it feels noticeably slower but it seems to run better, if that makes sense at all. It idles well so I assume the pilot and fuel screw are adjusted properly and it doesn't pop at all now on decel, but it feels really down on power especially in the top end. When I go WOT and then back off a little it seems to accelerate a little more which leads me to believe the main jet is too SMALL, but I'm already at a 150 with stock exhaust...that said, it had a 162 and seemed more powerful. Huh. My next step is to pull the spark plug and see what it tells me, but I'm hoping someone has some input for me. Am I the only one the JD kit hasn't worked out for? Thanks, J
  8. Been trying to diagnose pinging issue firstly got a 430 main jet to try but noticed the rc valve was lose as &%$#@! not sure if that would ever create a ping type noise at 3/4 throttle. When inspecting the exhaust valves i did notice towards the ends of the valves that touch the cylinder they was greyish I am thinking now this is defiantly pinging and its to lean on the main jet?
  9. Okay so to start off i know for a fact that it is a carby issue. Basically i have a 1995 Kawasaki Kx100 2 stroke, and its never ever had a single issue for the time that i've owned it which is over a year. Recently with the weather becoming colder approaching winter in Australia, the bikes been really really un-happy. First i noticed that is wouldnt start like it used to so i was like no issues, probably just the colder weather, then while riding it i realized it would bog out at full throttle, like a blubwubwubwub kinda bog. After a bit of tinkering i cleaned out the carb and stuff and tried to tune it, i came accross a different issue, now basically when im riding and i get to like 4th gear, all the sudden the bike will rev out really high and ill loose all power. Then i upshift into 5th and it will be good for a second then rev out and i loose power again. Ive checked everywhere for air leaks and all that and i cant find any. is my air adjustment screw letting in too much air? and in the case of the bog at full throttle should i maybe go down a size on the main jet. Lastly theres another issue lol. when i start it it will idle for a second and then rev its guts out. Please help me, next step is to get a brand new carb i think.
  10. GearHeadBrady

    Jetting help CR250

    Hello guys, this is my first post on here as I am in need of some help, I have been following these threads for a long time now because they contain very useful information. nut i have never made a post of my own because I have normally been able to find the answers to my questions in existing threads. anyways, I have just finished rebuilding my 2002 Cr250, i used the crank that was already in it and just replaced the crank bearings,crank seals, all external oil seals, as well as sending my cylinder off to millineum technologies for a bore a re nicaseal of the cylinder(back to stock bore) as well as replacing the piston with a wiseco Pro-Lite piston(I drilled the holes for the exhaust bridge as I have always done).( a new OEM cylinder head was put on as well) so here's my problem, I believe my damage to the top end was due to air leaks thus a lean burn down of the top end. I have gone through my break-in procedure and done 4 heat cycles and then an idle run through of the gears. today I did a half throttle and then an about 3/4 throttle pull through the gears. the bike felt like it ran good and had good power except it felt like it fell a little flat in the top peak of the RPM(so there's problem number 1) my second issue is after these pulls the silencer and pipe silencer joint were covered in spooge.(i know a bit of spooge is to be expected after full days worth of riding but not after a 10 minute run through of the gears) the spooge problem led me to believe that the jetting was the issue and that the bike falling a liittle flat high in the rpms and the spooge were connected(i have a stock mikuni carb with the recomended jetting for a pro circuit pipe 380 main, 32.5 pilot stock needle on 3rd clip position)(i was running a 340 main and 30 pilot before the rebuild but i felt like that was a little lean) i then pulled the plug and looked at all of it and the coloration of the porselin is leading me to beleive the jetting is lean(even on stock jetting and 4 sizes up on the main from where i used to be) the plug looking lean scares me a tad as this is what i fekt like caused my top end failure before. so i really need help from the jettng gurus here that can give me good info attached are pictures of the plug,spooge and new top end any help would be appreciated, i would like to fix the spooge problem and the falling flat feeling high in the rpm, i just put alot of money into this motor and i want to do it right to prevent andy further problems.
  11. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  12. Hey everybody, first post after years of lurking. Saturday I traded my johnboat for another bike. A very rough 2006 ttr125 with a 150 big bore kit. (no idea who made the kit). She starts first kick no matter what, idles and runs great until about 7/8 to full throttle where it proceeds to fall on its face until I let up. Bike has an "aftermarket" carb that i'm having trouble identifying. The only marking on it is an "M" cast on the side of the body. the insides look brand new but the jets dont have sizes on them. I can post pics as soon as I get off work but without knowing what size jets I have i'm not sure what kit to purchase. Starting to think a new mikuni would be the best course of action. Any Ideas or discussion would be great. Thanks a ton in advance. -Ricky
  13. i helping my friend with his 2006, the bike only starts when giving throttle and wont idle and back fires a lot. he put in an all ballz rebuild kit last year, and i just took the carb apart and cleaned it using an ultrasonic cleaner. i also installed a JD jet kit and new slide seal, also cleaned out the pilot port with wire/fishing line. i know its the carb because i have the same bike and i put my carb in it and it ran great. i also have his carb set up with the same size jets and fuel screw setting. Edit: it has an aluminum hot start nut too, so thats not it either.
  14. jpcaston

    YZ125 runaway engine

    Have a 2015 YZ125. After a rather bad crash I had to replace the subframe and air box. I put it all back together. Kicked for 5 minutes Wouldn't even come close to starting. Had been sitting for 6 weeks or so, so I checked and Got spark, got compression, got new plug(old one showed proper color, not lean), got gas supply to carb. Anyway I lay the bike on its left side for a highly technical excess fuel purge and first kick with fuel off and zero throttle, it starts but have runaway engine condition. Had to use kill switch to stop it before it blew up. I have been reading that it could be crank seals or another type of air leak. Not really buying that because why would it start right up after simply laying it on its side. New air box should be sound and sealed. Anyway I would think the air leak if it's that is after the carburetor. On the YZ there is only the reed valve after the carb. I'm thinking crud in the carb but on a dirt bike you would think that would be a more common condition. Anyway, looking for ideas here.
  15. Jericola

    RM 85 Throttle Problems

    Hi, I have an issue with my RM 85... I bought it a couple months ago and am having a problem. For the most part my bike will run just fine. But once in awhile I will let off the throttle and the rpms will hang for a few seconds then drop back down. I know for a fact my bike is running pretty rich so it definitely isn't a lean condition. I know it isn't just me whiskey throttling because I will completely let off and it will still hang for a couple of seconds. This may be a carburetor problem or cable problem I don't know. I turned the handlebars both ways and I don't hear the rpms go up. Please help me because I have no idea what it truly is. And just to restate, it will only do this very rarely, like once a ride but it usually is fine. Thank you for any help.
  16. Hey guys I could really use some help. I bought a 2005 CRF 450x that has an aftermarket air filter, full FMF exhaust system (pipe and header), removed backfire screen, and removed air snorkel. Bike idles and starts just fine, but when I hold the throttle anywhere from barely at all to about 1/2 it bogs, wants to die, and backfires. Seems like lean running conditions to me because if i leave the choke on the problem mostly goes away. Additionally, if i move the air screw out almost all the way (to the point where it could vibrate off), it seems to clean up a little bit. I am trying to determine whether bigger jet(s) would fix it or if its something else. My dad thought it might be the float level, but I'm really not sure. Thanks in advance for your help!
  17. I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have not found any options available for the new 2018 bikes. I live and work for a new Beta Dealer (Auburn Extreme Powersports) in California, and we are having a difficult time mapping the RR-S bikes for full FMF exhausts. We have tried contacting Beta Support several times for this issue to no avail, and we typically are given the runaround when transferring to techs and secretaries. From what we can gather, the FMF flash is designed for the RR bikes, but not the street-legal counterparts. Every time we try to install the FMF map onto an RR-S errors occur, and the programmer screen goes virtually blank. We have heard through the grapevine that some are using the RR maps on the RR-S with success, but we have yet to try it, even on our own bikes for fear that it will permanently erase or damage the CDI. Any and all help or suggestions regarding this topic would surely be appreciated! Thanks, Ben.
  18. hey guys. i have an 03 rm 125 with jetting issues. i've jetted it multiple times. currently has all stock jetting (460 main,40 pilot, 3 down on clip) and i'm running amsoil dominator full synthetic premix. was running castor 927 but fouled a $30 plug which i'm not very happy about. anyways.. does my plug look alright? should i run a $30 plug in it? i'm not trying to get it too lean, and i'm not trying to foul plugs. 440 (next size down) is too lean. not sure what to do. this is how my plugs are looking right now. there not too wet, just pretty dark
  19. *Moved from sportbike forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  20. I've got a 1999 Suzuki RM125 (PWK carb, ProCircuit Exhaust). The settings are correct for what ProCircuit has for jet sizes in my temp range. I believe it's running rich because of three reasons: Very smoky Very sooty (black drips spray out tailpipe) Engine revs very high when fuel runs out, until it's empty and shuts off. It also leaks fuel. So I'm wondering if these could be related. The idea is that because of the fuel leak, there is something (float or float needle worn) that is letting too much fuel in, causeing it to run rich. Then when the fuel runs out, it finally isn't running too rich and revs up because the idle screw was turned all the way up to compensate for the richness. I will check the float level and go from there. Does this sound like a possible fix?
  21. Hi I recently bought a KTM 250sx 2005 and my bike leaks a lot of oil. I made a topic recently asking how to fix this and got amazing answers from everyone! And I asked this question on the other topic, yet to be answered, but I felt it was a different question wholly due to the paragraph it took to ask the question. And if it is answered there, this one can be deleted, but I wanted to know how do I tune the carburetor to run 50:1. It currently runs 32:1 and I believe the carb is tuned for that. I don't know jet specs but I will try to find out. I know you can adjust the jets via the air/fuel screw... I was told to turn it all the way lean and run the fuel, and I understand to adjust accordingly. But I just want to know what I must do to know if I should turn it richer or leaner based on what the bike does. What are the signs to tell to tune richer once I turn it all the way lean? And is there only one screw I must turn? or are there many? someone please explain all of this.
  22. oldredR

    2004 CRF 250X jetting for altitude

    Finally got my wife's CRF 250X jetting dialed in for high altitude trail riding and thought I would post what I ended up with: We live on the Colorado front range and usually ride trails between 7,000 to 12,000 ft. We tried to stay with stock Honda parts and not many mods. Main: 125 Pilot: 42 Stock NCVT needle: 4th clip down (But may also recomend the NCVQ needle from a 2004 Yamaha 450) Leak jet to accelerator pump: 50 Pilot Screw (TM design works): 2 1/4 turn out O ring mod on accelerator pump Snorkle only removed on air cleaner box
  23. I need to know the difference between having a lean gas mix and a lean fuel/air ratio. I know that 100:1 is leaner than 50:1 which is leaner than 32:1, and I have an idea of what leaner fuel/air looks like, or too lean, but what are the signs of the gas mixture being too lean? I am currently switching my gas mixture from 32:1 to 50:1 and I ride a KTM 250sx and I will tune my carb, etc. I made a whole thread on this already and I'm pretty positive the bike will run 50:1 fine since the recommended is 60:1 without having to jet it due to the fact that the guy never jetted the carb for 32:1, it is still jetted for 60:1. I just need to know what the signs of lean gas or fuel/air mixture and the difference. I shouldn't even need to know the sign of lean gas, if there are any... I don't wanna &%$#@! up the bike. I would at least like to know the sign of lean air/fuel ratio so that I can adjust since idk the signs of what I would see if it is too lean or rich.
  24. Help, watch video with sound on. RPMs surge at idle and when holding a constant speed. I bought the bike last year as a project. The guy told me he had leaned out the carb and couldn't get it quite right. So I installed a basic carb kit with stock jetting and the bike steal runs like this. Seams to have great power at full throttle, but starts this surging after it warms up. I've had the V-Force reed cage off, the reeds looked OK'ish? (I,m just not sure what symptom a weak reed would cause) and checked for leaks all through the intake tract. Could it be a leak in the case halves? A weak reed? Thanx for your time and help!
  25. Long story short, my KX has been acting up lately, it seems like the jetting is constantly changing and will run lean even if i have the air screw in tight enough to foul a plug. Sometimes it runs perfectly fine, usually trail riding, but typically when I'm hill climbing or riding very hard i will get the idle surge when i let off the throttle. This makes me want to turn the air screw in to avoid a shattered piston from running lean but its not really solving the issue. Last weekend I raced and it ran great for the first 2 minutes, got the holeshot, then it just kept bogging, putting and popping until it died and did not want to start again. The one cover for the actuator rod for the powervalve was loose which i could not tighten without taking the cylinder off, could air be getting into the ratio from there even though exhaust was coming out? Also, this piston has a ton of hours on it. Someone recommended replacing the rings, as they could be worn and not keeping a great seal on the engine. Should i replace the rings, tighten the cover for the powervalve actuator, clean the carb and put it all back together or throw a new piston on now? I wanted to race this weekend which probably wont happen if I'm doing the top end rebuild. Also, if the top end is recommended, where do i start? the cylinder looks fine, do I have to get a (very slightly) bigger piston to make up for the worn cylinder edges? How do I know what piston to get and how do I know what size base gasket to replace it with? Any tips, thoughts, recommendations would be great thanks!
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