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Found 9 results

  1. EnduroBandit

    bushing Gio X31 250cc Linkage Bushings

    Hey ya'll! I've been riding my Gio X31 250cc really hard lately and one of the rear linkage bushings went. Now it makes a horrible squeaking noise lol. Does anyone know were I can get replacement bushings or if there are any compatible bushings from name-brand bikes? Thanks, Jordan
  2. 2001 yz250 linkage bit of play if lift wheel when on stand ..is it worth buying a linkage kit
  3. 05Yz125ForLife

    Lowering a 2005 yz125

    I have 05yz125 and do mostly trail ride. I’m 5’8” and don’t ride often enough. I was considering lowering the stance of my bike to see if it make it easier to handle in tight trails. Any thought on linkage changes and how to adjust the front forks accordingly?
  4. Hi Guys I ordered a Pivot Works linkage rebuild kit for my KX-125. I didn't pay attention when i removed the old seals, can anybody tell me which side goes inward ? (towards the bearing
  5. Hi people, I know very little on how to do what I want to do regards to putting together a 2nd hand ec 300 I'm making videos to entertain others and myself during the build Any help would be great in the weeks to come Here is the link to my 1st episode of the Gas Gas Ec 300 Build Series Enjoy https://youtu.be/aMTOXVhyikI
  6. Hello everyone, I'm gonna try and get pictures as soon as possible. But I think there is an issue with the motor that I can't seem to solve. I hope someone has advice on this. The power valve shaft has a slotted end to make sure the linkage is fitted on correctly. The entire power valve assembly itself is connected up. But as soon as I want to connect the power valve linkage (the part in which you need to insert the dowel pin if you want to screw it in/ unscrew it) then I have to put ALOT of preload on the power valve linkage to make it fit (pull the power valve linkage upwards). Also: once it is installed, the fork to set the dowel pin in doesn't line up with the hole in the cylinder whatsoever. The fork structure is left of the hole and I cannot rotate the shaft any more counterclockwise (complete dead stop). I can only rotate the power valve clockwise, but I need pliers to rotate the shaft clockwise, alot of force is needed. I have a suspicion that the rotation of the shaft is wrong, but I can't find how as everything is in place as it should be. Last time it was revised by a mechanic and I found it this way. I couldn't insert the setpin because the hole didn't line up with the fork. This is a stock image from the interwebz: (not my bike)
  7. I'm aware the late model 600r's and 650ls are more or less identical, but I wanted to double check before buying.
  8. My son's CRF 100 needed linkage and swing arm rebuild. I bought the Pivot Works kits that replaces the OEM plastic bushings with steel needle bearings, seals, and roller pins. The needle bearings are super tricky to install. The needles are in open races with no retainers, and want to just fall out. For the linkage I used the dust caps as guides and just pressed them in. I Still had a few needles fall out but wasn't a huge problem. The swing arm is really hard. The kit comes with 2 bearings to replace each plastic bushing. I've heated the swing arm and froze the bearing but still having a hell of a time getting them pressed in. Question 1. What are the tricks to getting these bearings pressed into the swingarm? Question 2. Why are there 4 bearing seals instead of just 2? Question 3. I think it might have been better to just buy new plastic bushings?
  9. So I want to share a solution I discovered today for what seems to be a somewhat common issue. First a little background, I ride a 2007 YZ144 set up for the woods and I had recently started to develop some slack in the rear end, so I had a buddy help me look and sure enough it was moving in the linkage. So I just received my new bearings and went to press out all the old bearings today. Using all-thread, some thick washers, and some nuts I was able to press out all the bearings in the linkage reasonably quickly (once I figured out to use a smaller socket so I wasn't hitting the shoulder). But then I ran into a dead-end.. the connecting link, dog bone, wish bone etc. has a shoulder, or raised sleeve, between the two bearings preventing you from pushing them both out one side. Now from my understanding this isn't the case on every bike, some bikes don't have a shoulder and the bearings in the connecting link can both be pressed out one side but my service manual clearly showed a shoulder. After some searching nobody really had a great method for removing these bearings except for buying a blind bearing puller. So I bought a cheap blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight but this did not work for me, it was slightly too large. So back to the drawing board.. then I discovered this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YRA3nhzXX0 Essentially, these races can be hammered out from the opposite side using a concrete expansion anchor that cost $2.69 at my local Ace Hardware Store. The one I found and used was slightly different from the one shown in the above video but there are many different styles that would probably work. Mine was luckily just the right length where I didn't need to use all thread or anything. Just slide it through to the race on the opposite side and expand it once inside (remove the needles before hand by the way). Once I had it in there and expanded, a few solid hammer blows (with wood underneath) and it came right out. See below for pictures of how it works. I've seen the question asked on these forums several times with no solution other than "buy a blind bearing puller" so hopefully this helps some people out.
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