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Found 35 results

  1. Dylan Kilbride

    maintenance Yz85 03 running problems

    Hi, brand new to this forum so excuse me if this is in the wrong section! We got a 2002/03 (unsure), yz85 a couple of months ago. Very few issues at the start, ran perfect. In the past two months the bike has been very temperamental. It was idling very high when it started but alot of the time it wouldnt even start. Was making very throaty, burpy kind of noises, especially with a bit of a throttle twise to try and get it going. So, after pulling the carb to bits, cleaning all of the jets, itd run once well, then do the same thing again. We repeated this process 4/5 times to date. We eventually routed the cause to a frayed intake boot causing a vacuum leak. So we replaced it. Good as new. For the first run.. kicked like a horse the first time we ran it after replacing the boot. Then today, she's back to her old self. Started fine earlier, and then just went throaty and started to die. Sounded like the plug wasn't firing. So took it out, checked. Nothing, check if there was power to the coil pack, got a spark, so cleaned the plug with a wire brush (b10eg, btw) Away she goes again, for 2 minutes, and dies. Back to making throaty sounds again. The plug is working as of now. The bike would start if the throttle was wide open but be very very throaty, burpy and rough. Carb was cleaned earlier before this. (Today) That's all the detail I can give, any questions feel free to ask me. I've given up on it as I'm all out of ideas. There was a bit of black oily stuff leaking out of the exhaust as well, only noticed as I was finishing up. Any help, ideas, suggestions are welcomed. I have a video of it but can't upload here. Thanks in advance
  2. Nicholas Pachis

    WRF 426 Street maintenance

    Hi. I'm new to the community and i would like some help. I have found a killer deal on a used wrf 426 supermoto. Hotcams camshaft akrapovic full exhaust system and beringer front brake assembly. I will use it as a daily commuter and weekend playbike. My mileage will range @ ~50-70km/daily. I've heard that these things are dead reliable if maintained properly. I've heard ppl talking about 1500km oil changes and no need to change piston at all. I know how to get valves in spec and change oil/oil filters. So as far as practicality goes there will be no issues in the practical side of maintenance whatsoever. What I'm sceptical about is what is the actual maintenance gonna be so the motor doesn't blow up on me (oil changes intervals in kms n stuff). Does any of you have any street experience with these bikes? Any help will be appreciated, thanks in advance
  3. Speed gonz

    Clutch adjustment issues?

    Hey I’ve been having the issue where when I have the clutch pulled and in gear when I kick start the bike it acts like it’s in gear even tho I have the clutch pulled so I usually resort to starting it in neutral. Also when coming in to a stop 1st gear it won’t want to come to a stop it will want to roll like its idling in gear. I adjusted it with success and took it for a test drive and came back with the same issue. Did some more adjusting got it right but I don’t want to have to do this every time. just wondering what I could do to make this right?. Thanks.
  4. Hey Gang, My 2018 150 XC-W was lucky enough to get ridden 40 hours since I purchased it in June. All east coast style, trail, mainly technical type riding that amounted to about 650 miles. I can plainly read what the service schedule for this bike calls for, But I ask... Are there things that you would consider or DEFINITELY do that are not accounted for on the service schedule image below? Mid-Atlantic season is pretty well a wrap...so I am going to tear the bike down for a bit. Also, short of V-Force Reeds, my bike is mostly stock. What upgrades might you do while the bike is tore to pieces? Budget is fairly open... Lets hear it, Thanks
  5. dear friends. Please help me give the most "care" to my 2001 yamaha WR400F. (proactive care.. I know this is a dirtbike) Luckily, I purchased it from an old dude, low usage, "good" condition. I live in middle Europe, you can compare our weather and air pressure as like in Great Britain, for example. I definitely will use it for trail riding in the woods. I will post pictures and video later, of course, about the actual status. 1.: please help me to identify the "best" oil and oil change interval for it. 2: Prevoius owner states he discovered a few drops of coolant, could NOT verify, it came from weep hole, he went to a mechanic, who checked SHAFT, IMPELLER - 5GR-12458-00-00 BUT only changed seal, no bearing, no shaft. How important would it be to completely replace these? bike has "unknown" mileage, circa 10.000 kilometres. rough estimation. (condition seems very good, factory like) SHAFT, IMPELLER - 5GR-12458-00-00 OIL SEAL - 93109-11073-00 OIL SEAL,SD-TYPE - 93102-12321-00 BEARING - 93306-00105-00 3.: it is 2001 year. so WHAT PARTS IS IT A MUST !!!!! to: -at least to check -grease (I read the poor yamaha greasing.. I guess I have to give it to the mechanic, front fork bearings, rear swingarm? does 2001 yamaha wr400f has grease "knob" or not? ) -exchange -replace sealing and stuff.. this is a VERY IMPORTANT question for me. I would like to do a big care and maintenance here, because it was standing A LONG TIME in the garage-- 2001 year... (EDIT: my valve clearances has been freshly done, all good to the book, parts inside,, look like new, no marks of wear there..) EDIT 2: greasing is well known todo.. Q: Do I need to grease a new WR? A: Absolutely. Yamaha is notorious for using an infinitely inadequate amount of grease in the head bearings, the swingarm bearings and the shock linkage. Even though it's a pain, a new bike should be disassembled at these areas and given a generous re-greasing with a high quality, waterproof product. 4: what are the "well known design problems" on this bike 2001 WR400F, if any known? are the gear-s for example "weak" and easily damaged? just a question as an example! (or the gear breaking problem is more to WR426 -WR450 topic?) 5: any other I forgot and it is "mandatory" to do, or "very recommended" to do, or check. -example: thermometer, either dipstick style for oil, or water cooler cap.. which one works best? who installed what? (hint/recommendation about thermometer is NOT to use, it will slowly leak.. so I will have no plans of these) THANK YOU! please lets get helpful here, I guess this comprehensive "guide" could be important to others too. note: yes I am reading the forums here, I start the most read topics first.. FAQ topic summarizes good.. but still I would like to get some help for you about my questions here.
  6. Hey guys I just bought a 2010 yz 250f and wondering if I should take it into a shop and have a mechanic go over everything internal . If I did this, what should I ask him to look at and do u guys think its a good idea , I've never owned a dirt bike before . So far I've noticed it needs a new back wheel bearing and the hour meter isn't working , I have changed oil , oil filter and air filter . Also theres a tick when I roll it in neutral , could possibly be the wheel bearing ? I thought maybe a kink in the chain could make this tick as well , chain was cleaned and greased and I noticed there still is a sticky link in the chain and still making the noise . Any help, suggestions and info appreciated .
  7. Paul Olesen

    Maintenance Readiness

    I hope you all have been out riding and enjoying spring. I got back into the hare scramble racing scene over the weekend after a three year hiatus and had a blast. Today, I just want to share a quick tip and start a discussion on preparatory things that help shorten the time it takes to do complex maintenance tasks, such as rebuilding an engine. Quick Tip Prior to turning a wrench carefully look over the service manual scanning through all the applicable procedures and subsystems. If I’m working on an unfamiliar model, I find it is helpful to jot down a rough outline of the disassembly sequence. This saves me time in the long run as I don’t have to rely as heavily on the service manual or continually flip through various sections. Another option is to use post-it notes to bookmark each relevant section in the manual. Mark the post-it notes with numbers or headings so you know where to turn to next. Earmarking or bookmarking the torque tables is also a huge time saver no matter the task. Be sure to scan through the manual as well to identify any specialty tools that are required that you may not have. Discussion Points What other preparatory things can be done to help speed up the major maintenance process? Is there a method to your madness or do you dive right in? Thanks for reading! Paul https://www.diymotofix.com/
  8. Paul Olesen

    New and Re-plated Cylinder Prep

    Today I want to share some pointers on preparing new or re-plated cylinders that will help ensure your engines run stronger and last longer. Plus, I've got an update on the two-stroke book I've been working on that I'd like to share. Let's get started! A Universal Concern First, both new and re-plated cylinders must be cleaned prior to assembling. Normally the cylinders will arrive looking clean, but looks can be deceiving. I have no doubt that the factories and re-plating services clean the cylinders as part of their processes, but I highly recommend cleaning the bores a final time prior to use. Shown below is a new Yamaha cylinder that I extracted quite a bit of honing grit out of. If left in place, the honing grit will ensure that the piston rings will wear out faster than they need to, so be sure to take the time to properly clean new cylinders prior to assembly. What’s the best way to clean the cylinder bore? Start by using warm soapy water and a brush to clean the cylinder. Take your time and be thorough. After the majority of the honing grit has been removed switch to automatic transmission fluid and a lint free rag for one final cleaning. As a test to check cleanliness, rub a cotton swab against the cylinder bore. If the swab picks up any debris and changes color, your cleaning duties are not over. The swab should be able to be rubbed against the bore and remain perfectly clean. Two-Stroke Port Dressing For two-stroke owners, the second item I want to bring to your attention is port dressing. Port dressing is a term used to describe the process of deburring/breaking the edge at the intersection of the cylinder plating and the ports in the cylinder. During the plating process, plating usually builds up excessively at the edge of the port and must be removed after honing. Proper removal is critical to ensure acceptable piston ring life. Manufacturers and plating services will break the edge in different ways and to different magnitudes, which ends up being a whole other topic. The important thing is to ensure that any new or re-plated cylinder you use shows visible signs that the port edges have been dressed. A dressed port edge will be easy to spot because it will feature a different surface finish than the cross-hatch created from honing. This is easily visible in the image shown above. Many port dressing operations are done manually so some irregularity in the geometry will usually be present. If there is no visible edge break on the port edges, I would be highly suspicious and contact the service that plated the cylinder or sold the cylinder and confirm with them if a step was missed. Typically a chamfer or radius in the .020 - .040” (0.5 - 1mm) range is used. Two-Stroke Power Valves Lastly, it is possible that some of the power valve components, such as blades or drums, will not fit correctly on cylinders that have been replated. This is because the plating can occasionally build up in the slots or bores where the power valve parts reside. Prior to final assembly, be sure to check the function of the power valve blade and/or drums to ensure they move freely in their respective locations within the cylinder. If plating has built up in a power valve slot or bore, it will need to be carefully removed. To do this, appropriately sized burs for die grinders or Dremel tools can be used. If one is not careful, irreversible damage to the slot or bore can result. When performing this work proceed cautiously or leave it to a seasoned professional. Burs for the job can be difficult to track down in stores, but are readily available online from places like McMaster-Carr. When purchasing burs, be sure to pick up a few variants, such as rounded and square edged, designed for removing hard materials. The Two-Stroke Book From February to March we photographed the entire book. From April onward we have been formatting and proofreading. Needless to say, we are in the final stretch! If you want to stay updated on the moment the Two-Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook is ready for pre-order, sign up at the link below. We can't wait to get this book out the door and into your garage. Sign Up for Updates on the Two-Stroke Book Thanks for reading and have a great rest of your week! -Paul
  9. Whaddup boys and girls, New around here, as well as very new to the dirt biking (riding in general) scene. I recently moved out of the city and more, country livin' so I got a dirt bike. I got a '04 YZ250F and haven't had much problems with it, except as I've been getting more and more comfortable on the throttle, and practicing my wheelies and such, I noticed... Low RPMs (Just above standstill, probably below like 10-20km/h) When i crack the throttle, it bogs if I'm going very slow/at a stand still. I have to release the throttle and twist the throttle more slowly (up to about 20km/h) then I can crack her wide open no problem. My question is, because I bought a racing bike, is it intented to be like this, since they would require a lot less low end power (since they're starting in dirt/mud/sand etc) or is there an issue with my bike. If there is an issue, what would possibly be the fix? Since i've had my bike (About 2-3weeks now) I've done: -oil change, air filter change, oil filter change, installed new sparkplugs and personal stuff such as suspension stiffness, handlebar position. Anything else I should be doing often other than those ^ (above) and is there a fix to my bike issue? or this how it is suppose to be? Thanks in advance homies.
  10. Paul Olesen

    Four Stroke Cylinder Head Reconditioning

    It's time to open up a can of worms and talk about a hotly debated topic in the powersport community - four stroke cylinder head reconditioning best practices. I've perused the forums and had discussions with people about reconditioning four stroke cylinder heads and there appears to be a lot of mixed opinion and beliefs on what is right or wrong. I'm certainly not going to say my take on the subject is the only way, but I do want to share my opinion, explain the technical details, as well as touch on the machining process. The text below is out of my book, The Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook, and details why cylinder heads should be reconditioned a certain way. Whenever new valves are installed in a cylinder head, it is best practice to recut the valve seats since the valves and seats are mated parts, otherwise the new valves are very susceptible to premature wear when run in the old seats. If a major overhaul is being performed, there is a good chance that enough seat wear will have occurred during the engine’s life that the valve seats will need to be recut before new valves are installed. This may be news to you, so I want to provide an explanation of why this is necessary. The term concentricity is used to describe the relationship between the axis of two circular objects. When two objects are perfectly concentric, their axis match up precisely with one another. In the case of the cylinder head, the valve guide axis and the valve seat axis must be as close to perfectly concentric as possible and parallel to one another. Usually, guide to seat concentricity is kept around 0.001” (0.025mm) or even less for racing applications. This is achieved by the factory by using a manufacturing process where the valve guides are reamed first. Then the freshly reamed valve guide bore is used to center the valve seat cutter. Once centered, the valve seat is cut. This process is then repeated for all the valves and results in very good concentricity between the valve guides and valve seats. As the engine is run, the valve guides, valve seats, and valve faces will wear. The valve guides will wear from front to back in an oval shape at the top and bottom of the guides. In a cross sectioned view the valve guide will take on an hourglass shape. The guide will become oval as a result of thrust forces stemming from the way the camshaft contacts the lifter bucket or rocker arm. These forces are transmitted to the valves and cause the valves to thrust against the sides of the guides, eventually causing the guides to become oval shaped. Once the guides start to become oval shaped, the valve faces will no longer be as concentric to the valve seats as they originally were. When this happens the valves will start to slide against the seats, causing the seats and valve faces to wear. The valve seats will eventually become out of round and the sealing between the valve face and seat will suffer. Installing new valves into oval shaped guides and out of round seats will ensure that the new valves wear out very quickly! To ensure the new valves being installed last as long as possible, the cylinder head’s seats and guides must be reconditioned once they are worn out. Complete cylinder head replacement is always an option, but I want to focus on freshening up the original head which is usually a more economical option, but comes with many more variables surrounding the quality of the job. There are numerous services offered in the marketplace for valve seat cutting, however, not all valve seat cutting methods are equal in terms of quality. There are hand operated seat cutters, dedicated seat cutting machines, and a few other options to choose from. Selecting the correct seat cutting process and entrusting the work to a competent engine builder is very important. The valve seat cutting process should mimic the OEM process as closely as possible. A concentric valve seat will never be able to be cut without first servicing the valve guides. If the valve guides are out of round then they will either be reamed to a slightly larger size if they are not too oval in shape or they will be replaced. Once any issues with the valve guides are addressed and they are perfectly round from top to bottom, it will be possible to cut the valve seat. Ensuring the valve guide is perfectly round is extremely important since the valve seat cutter is centered off of the valve guide bore. Cutting the valve seat concentrically to the guide requires a combination of skill and using modern machinery. The best valve seat cutting equipment in the world is worthless without a good experienced operator running it. There are two main factors which make cutting a seat concentric to the valve guide difficult. To start with, the valve seat cutter uses a pilot which locates in the valve guide. Since the valve stems are very small in diameter the pilots used to guide the seat cutters are also very small in diameter. A small diameter pilot shaft that centers the cutting tool can flex easily, which presents a real problem when cutting the seats. The next issue that arises when reconditioning seats is that often times the cutting tool will try to follow the path of the old valve seat which can make it hard to cut a concentric seat. Couple these factors together with slop within the machine, setup error, and operator error and you can see how quickly things can come out of alignment and you can end up with a poorly cut seat. In addition to seat concentricity, the depth the seat is cut to will influence valve spring pressure, shim sizes, and the compression ratio of the engine. All three of these variables will be reduced the deeper the seat is cut, which is not a good thing. The surface finish of the seat itself will influence how well the valve seals. A seat with chatter marks or other machining blemishes will not seal as effectively as a smooth seat. The valve seat width and the contact point between the seat and the valve face are also very important. Due to the complexities involved with cutting valve seats on modern four-stroke dirt bike engines, the job should not be left up to just anybody. There are numerous businesses which specialize in valve seat cutting which have both the right equipment and expertise to do the job correctly. I highly recommend spending some time researching and finding a reputable cylinder head machining company when it comes time to recondition your head. If the cylinder head must be shipped off in order to do business with a reputable company, the additional wait will be worthwhile. If you found this information helpful and would like more technical info on maintaining your four stroke engine, check out my book, The Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook. Thanks for reading and happy wrenching! As always if you have comments or want to share your thoughts please leave a note below. -Paul Available at: - Amazon - Moto Fix Website
  11. Dustin Lewis

    Newbie Questions - 2012 CRF450R

    Hey Guys, I bought a 2012 CRF450R around 8 months. I decided to get back into riding after my Dad bought my son a CRF50 for christmas. I was following him around on my XR100R and was having a blast, but came across a cherry 2012 crf450r for sale by an older gentlemen that claims he rode it a few times a year and was meticulously maintained. The bike runs great (in my opinion?) and is stock other than a clutch lever, shifter, and Racetech Gold valves. Anyways had a family emergency that led to the bike sitting for over 8 months with 3/4 tank after only riding it for about an hour since I bought it. I fired it up a couple weeks ago after a couple kicks and seems to be fine. I have searched through the forums and found some info on draining the tank, but mentioned the tank was pressurized and needed a special honda tool to re-pressurize. What is easiest way to drain the fuel and do I need special the tool? Or since the bike fired up and seemed to be running okay in the neighborhood, just burn through the tank? Or could this cause damage? I have a service manual coming in the mail from ebay as I plan to learn to do my own bike maintenance and havnt performed a proper check of everything since I bought it, but was hoping I get some help while I wait for snail mail. Thanks for putting up with newbie crap. Much appreciation!
  12. Kevin Seifert

    Used bike initial maintenance 300xc

    I am buying a used 2014 300xc from a local seller. I am looking for some advice on the initial maintenance that I should perform after picking it up. Background: His dad bought it new in 2014, selling it to him in 2016. He is selling it to upgrade to a 2017. The seller raced recreationally in some local enduros. The motor is untouched. Never rebuilt top or bottom. (seller said he guessed 70 hours, but I assume it's much more) It has a bent radiator (not leaking). New pipe. New Silencer. Says he just replaced the clutch pack, chain and sprockets. The bike looks heavily used, but for agreed upon price I am happy with it. What are the must do maintenance items I should perform before riding in the spring?
  13. I just bought an '03 CRF230F and am eager to start riding it and getting used to it. I've ordered the official Honda Service Manual but it won't be here for up to a week. I want to change the engine oil on the bike ASAP though. Can someone tell me what weight oil to use? Thanks, and I'm looking forward to participating in these forums!
  14. Hey TT, I just got 2005 DRZ400E. It didn't come with any manuals that's why I'm asking fellow DRZ owners for some help. Please bear with me if I'm asking obvious and or lame questions, it's my first bike . I'm in Colorado @5280' plan to take it to higher elevations. My riding will be some pavement and the rest FSR's, maybe some super easy single tracks initially. I plan to plate it. What manual, including repair manual, can be recommended? Anything available to download? I found a manual on DRZ400E.com but it seems to be for the S model and not the E. What gas should I use? It's a higher compression motor and I believe the manual calls for 91. Although, would it be different at a higher altitude? What oil and filter should I use? How ofter should I be changing oil? What air filter and sealant is recommended? What hand guards do you recommend? Integrated turn signals might be nice but not a deal breaker Skid/bash plate. Security. It's stored in the garage most of the time but I might need some extra security when I travel. Here are some things I thing might be useful. Any thoughts? Front disk break lock with alarm Heavy duty chain and a lock Speedometer. It just came with a trip meter. What break fluid can be used? What coolant should I user? Any cool taillight hubs? Front and rear tires. I'm thinking of getting Kenda Trackmaster II K760 as they appear to be a good bang for the buck. Are Dunlop D606 that much better as the price suggests? Mirrors. Something neat would be nice.
  15. Allforhonor

    Looking at buying an old low mile DR650

    I'm looking at picking up a used DR650/KLR/690 Enduro for the lady friend and there happens to be a cheap DR650 in my area for sale right now. The potential problem? It's a model year 2000 with less than 4500 miles on it. I have a 2013 DRZ-S that has about 6000 miles on it and I feel like that's borderline neglect so a 2000 with even less has me concerned. What should I look for or be concerned about that I can check in someones driveway. Would it be worth it to trailer it somewhere and have it checked out professionally? I'm new to the area and therefore don't have a "trusted mechanic" and the nearest Suzuki dealer is ~2.25 hour drive away. Edit: I should add that I've got probably 30 hours seat time on a 2007 DR650 so I know roughly how they should feel.
  16. rusty_camper

    Maintenance Schedule

    Hello fellow riders, Being a dual-sport fan by heart and a software developer by trade, I couldn’t resist the urge to create an app that would help me to keep track of my bike’s upcoming maintenance schedule, service history and expenses. Initially created for my Suzuki DR650 and available to the DR650 community, I just had to extend it to support the mighty Honda XR650… not after months of nagging from a XR650 friend (hello Nick, I know you’re reading this). Free forever, no ads, no bs! Android only, sorry iPhone users. Don’t take my word for it, link: get it on Google Play Store Your feedback is welcome and appreciated. Have fun riding!
  17. Hello all, I know this is a highly debated topic and one that has probably been discussed at great length. I apologize in advance for opening up this can of worms. Unfortunately, when I have done searches both on this forum and google, virtually all the threads I have read are old (2004-2010, maybe 1 thread from 2011'). I have not seen anything (2013-2017) regarding this topic. I think with progression of engineering that reliability on both 2 strokes and 4 strokes on 2014 + bikes is vastly superior of that of 2004-2010 bikes. (maybe I am wrong....) My background: I had a Yamaha RT 100 and TTR 125L back in the day (my only dirt experience). Then ended up with a GSXR 750 after college, then a KTM 690 SMC supermoto, CBR 600 track bike, and then a Husqvarna 701 Supermoto. So I am not new to motorcycles but my knowledge of dirtbikes and dirt riding is pretty limited. Obviously coming from a street bike the maintenance and service intervals are substantially different than a dirtbike. Hell, even my track bike does not require all that much maintenance and I ride the crap out of that (change oil every few track days). I want to get a dirtbike that I can go ride some trails (I will probably just putt around) and occasional try and ride a MX track (I imagine I would be very slow. I road a MX track back with my TTR 125L but that sucked because it had no suspension- amongst other things). So while I do not need race bike power, I would like suspension capable of hitting some MX jumps. Hence why I do not want a trail bike like a TTR 230 or CRF 230. I want something that would be able to actually take some jumps if I get to that point (I at least want to try and progress to that point). My question is: Would a 2 stroke (no older than 2007') be easier/cheaper to maintain than a modern day 4 stroke (2012' +). I have read 2 strokes need a top end rebuilt every 20 hours. Some say 30 hours, and I have heard people not racing run 2 strokes for 60-80 hours without a rebuild. Then they say 4 strokes are full engine rebuilds when they go (and the cost of the actual pistons and rods are significantly higher on the 4 strokes?) I will be riding not nearly as hard as many people on here would. I understand the powerband difference and all of that. I am more concerned with wrench time and cost to ride over anything. P.S. Holy crap, people have their bikes overpriced on craigslist. I am trying to pick up a small bike for my fiance and I am seeing like 2004-2007 TTR 125L's for like $2,000- $2,200..... a 10-13 year old small displacement trail bike???
  18. Hey- was doing some work on my xr100 and dropped a socket between the engine and frame. it is in a tight spot and i cannot get it without removing the engine. Is it ok if i just leave it in there? will it break anything? thanks!
  19. Hello I am storing my recently bought 2003 yz125 for my first winter ever of owning a dirt bike. I looked at some videos and articles to know how to store a motorcycle in winter for the best survivability of the bike and I saw that some people suggest to spray some fogging oil in the air intake directly while runing the engine OR put a teaspoon of engine oil in the spark plug hole and crank the kickstart a bit to coat the inside of the cylinder with oil so it dosen't rust and all. Is this really necessary? I was thinking because my bike is a two stroke, and it ran with a 32:1 yamalube mix it should have already got its fair share of oil in the cylinder right? Also, is using a stand high enough so the wheels don't touch the ground really an important thing? People say its gonna mess with the suspension and flaten the tires otherwise, is that really something that could happen? I use a standard triangle stand but I go mess with the bike at least once a week so is this really going to be a thing for me? Thanks in advance. If ever you have good tips for winter storage let me know, I am all ears.
  20. Anthony Kennedy

    125cc Enduro Rider

    Hello everyone I'm Anthony. I've created this forum for small bore dirt bike riders! I hope you find it helpful/enjoyable. Check out my blog if interested in small bore bikes!
  21. In today's post, I'm very excited to share details about my new book,The Two Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook. As with all of my blogs and technical resources, my goal has been to bring riders clear and concise technical information. My two-stroke book exemplifies this and puts nearly 300 pages of engine building knowledge at your fingertips. I wroteThe Two Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook to be an all-encompassing guide on engine building. From the moment there is doubt about the engine's overall condition to the time the rebuilt engine is broken in, I give you a step-by-step guide to help you work towards a successful build. My aim was to create a definitive resource that hit on all the relevant topics you'll encounter as you proceed through an engine build and take any guesswork out of the equation. Throughout the book, engineering knowledge and practical experience are fused together to detail the how and why behind the way procedures are performed, parts are designed, and engine performance is affected. This is the most important and valuable aspect of the book, and it's something you won't find in a service manual. The book doesn't just tell you to bolt part A to part B, it teaches and explains the correct way assembly procedures should be performed and why it is necessary to do so. It also explains the intricate relationship between parts, where to look for wear patterns, and shows examples of worn and damaged components. If you're interested in making modifications to your engine or if you're curious about how certain modifications affect performance, I wrote an entire chapter dedicated to the subject. Within this chapter a discussion on how performance parts such as expansion chambers, port timing modifications, and cylinder heads alter overall engine performance is included and helpful suggestions are provided to aid you in choosing the correct components for your build, depending on your specific riding needs. If you have a thirst to learn more about how your engine works and a desire to correctly disassemble or assemble an engine to professional standards, you will benefit greatly from this book. Whether a complete beginner or a seasoned builder, with nearly 300 pages and 250 images worth of information, there is fresh and useful knowledge for everyone. There is also valuable material packed into this handbook that doesn't just pertain to the act of building the engine. I include instruction on diagnosing engine problems, sourcing and determining which parts to replace, using precision measuring tools, setting up your workshop, and additional tests and inspections that should be performed when preparing racing engines. If you just want to build your engine back up to stock spec, you are covered. If you want to go the extra mile and prepare a racing engine, you are also covered. In a way, this book allows you to choose your own ending by giving you all the tools and knowledge you need to complete your build at whatever level you decide. As a way to thank you for your support, we're offering TT members 15% off during a special TT pre-sale which runs from now until December 5th (when the book officially launches). Simply follow this link to learn more and order: ThumperTalk Pre-Sale Thanks again for all your support as we've grown DIY Moto Fix from an idea to a thriving community of riders who are passionate about making their machines perform better through their own hard work. Thanks for reading and have a great week. -Paul
  22. Paul Olesen

    How to Separate Your Crankcases The Right Way

    “Splitting the cases” is often referred to as a daunting or undesirable task, but if you are well prepared and properly equipped then it can be a straightforward job. To alleviate any concerns you may have with the task, I want to discuss best practices and share some tips that you may find useful when dealing with crank bearings that utilize an interference fit with the crankshaft. We’ll get started by discussing preparatory items and work through to completing the job. Preparation I always recommend prepping for crankcase separation by thoroughly reviewing the service manual. This is important in case any special instructions are present, such as guidance on how the crankcases should be positioned. Typically, it is advantageous to lift one half off the other in a certain orientation due to the way the gearbox or other components are installed. Secondly, a review of the manual may highlight any specific hardware that must be removed prior to attempting to split the cases. From a tools standpoint, a crankcase splitter tool is a worthy investment because it will help ensure the job goes smoothly. Case splitters are relatively inexpensive and widely available. Alternatively, for the budget conscious or lesser prepared, a case splitter is something that could be fabricated. Whether buying or making, ensure you pick up a model with a protective end cap for the crankshaft or fabricate one. We’ll discuss the end cap later. The other tools required are all fairly standard and include your typical sockets, wrenches, and soft mallets. Wooden blocks or other soft semi-malleable spacers should be selected which level and raise the crankcases off the tabletop. This allows the cases to be positioned so that the split line between the cases lies horizontally and subsequent splitting can be done vertically. This will help ensure evenness of separation as well as reduce the likelihood of components falling out of the cases unexpectedly. As much as shortcuts are desirable, just about everything external to the cases must be removed in order to successfully split the cases. Clutch, stator, crank gear, etc. must be removed prior to case splitting. Your service manual will provide further clarity as to what needs to come off. Technique & Tips Once you’re ready to separate the cases, the first thing we’ll need to do is remove all the crankcase bolts. The crankcase bolts should be removed via any prescribed patterns outlined in the service manual. Since the crankcase bolts are typically several different lengths, ensuring the location of each bolt is well documented is extremely important. As I discussed in my post on keeping track of bolts, the cardboard gasket method or any other you find suitable should be utilized so that the reassembly process is straightforward later on. After the crankcase bolts have been removed, the crankcases should be inspected one final time to ensure no hardware that should have been removed prior is hitchhiking. Trust me, trying to separate cases only to find there is one last forgotten bolt is quite frustrating! Once you’re confident all the necessary hardware has been removed, position the cases on the blocks with the correct half facing up. Next, install the protective cap over the crankshaft. I advise using the cap whether you own a two or four-stroke simply because in both cases it helps preserve the end of the crankshaft. This is of particular importance on four-stroke engines that utilize an oil feed that passes through the crank. Once the crank end is protected, proceed to install the crankcase splitter. Select threaded holes that are as close to equispaced from one another as possible to promote uniform loading of the case splitter. When threading the case splitter studs into the crankcase, make sure you engage at least 1.5 times the diameter of the stud diameter. For example, if the stud is 6mm in diameter make sure at least 9mm of thread engagement length is achieved. This will help ensure the threads are not stripped when you attempt to separate the crankcases. With the crankcase splitter installed begin tensioning the main bolt against the end of the protective cap. Proceed to tighten the bolt until the crankcases begin to separate about a 1/16” (1.5mm). Once separation has occurred, make sure that separation is even all the way around the cases. Due to the way the case splitter loads the cases, the area near the output sprocket tends to lag. Case separation needs to be even so that the dowel pins used to pair the cases together don’t bind. If the output sprocket end of the cases hasn’t separated, use a soft rubber or plastic mallet to gently tap in that area. Tap carefully and only on case areas that appear sturdy. Once you’ve created an even gap, proceed to tension the splitter bolt, tap when necessary, and fully remove the crankcase. Upon separation, make sure that no gearbox components, such as washers, have stuck to the case. What I’ve described is the ideal sequence of events for a successful case separation, however, occasionally the cases won’t be as cooperative. In the past, I’ve had to deal with crankcases where moisture has found its way into the dowel pin bores and corroded the dowel pins. This effectively seizes the dowel pins in their bores and makes the separation job more challenging. If the crankcases are being resilient to separation, stuck dowel pins may be a potential problem. Most dowel pins are located opposite one another and their exact position can often be referenced in the service manual or in the crankcase section of part microfiches. Once the location of the dowel pins has been confirmed, a torch can be used to lightly heat the dowel pin areas. Heat will expand the metal surrounding the dowel pin and aid in freeing up the stuck pin bore. Usually, a few careful rounds of heat, tension on the splitter, and well-placed tapping is enough to free up the pesky cases and get them separated. Alternatively, if the heat does not help, applying a penetrant to the pin bore areas is another option that may help free things up. If you find yourself dealing with stuck cases, the key is to be patient and think through all your options. In these types of situations, most mistakes are avoidable and are usually the result of rushed decisions. Once the cases have been separated, the remaining tasks of removing the gearbox and pushing the crank out of the remaining case half can commence. I hope you’ve enjoyed this write up on crankcase separation and that it makes you more prepared for the job. If you’ve got additional crankcase separation tips that you want to share, please leave a comment below. For additional engine building information, whether two or four-stroke, check out my engine building handbooks. Each handbook is offered in print or digital form, contains over 250 color pictures, detailed instruction from start to finish on full rebuilds, and contains a wealth of information pertaining to diagnostic testing and precision measuring. Thanks and have a great week! -Paul
  23. I just procured a 2105 FE450. It was well cared for and is a solid bike. When I picked up the bike, however, I was a bit shocked about what the previous owner told me about maintenance. He told me to change all the fuel filters (there are three of them?), air filter, and oil and oil filter after every race. I am a motocross racer from way back (late 70's/I rode an open class CZ and had a dealer sponsorship), and I do not recall this degree of attention being payed to my bike back then. Was this guy being a bit anal or is this really the case? Also, he said he ran fuel with no less than a 108 octane rating. Again, I was surprised because I thought I would be able to run premium gas from the pump. Apparently that is not the case? I do want the highest performing fuel so if you could say a few words about that, I would be grateful. Thanks in advance from and old school motocross racer!
  24. In the market for a 450l or 250l. Want the extra power of the 450, but the maintenance intervals scare me a bit. Has anyone pushed out their suggested maintenance? does it seem that the suggested maintenance is overkill? As much as id like to think i'll be riding offroad, i'll probably use it mostly on asphalt single lane mountain roads. Thanks
  25. hey so I have 2010 Yz250f and was riding in the bush and I was getting a clunking sound when I gave it throttle. thought it was the loose chain since it was very loose. later in the ride it starts puffing white smoke straight out of the bottom as well as leaking oil out the bottom. I know something must have broke in the bottom end it was running until I shut it down when I seen that. anybody know what I did?
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