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Found 9 results

  1. I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have not found any options available for the new 2018 bikes. I live and work for a new Beta Dealer (Auburn Extreme Powersports) in California, and we are having a difficult time mapping the RR-S bikes for full FMF exhausts. We have tried contacting Beta Support several times for this issue to no avail, and we typically are given the runaround when transferring to techs and secretaries. From what we can gather, the FMF flash is designed for the RR bikes, but not the street-legal counterparts. Every time we try to install the FMF map onto an RR-S errors occur, and the programmer screen goes virtually blank. We have heard through the grapevine that some are using the RR maps on the RR-S with success, but we have yet to try it, even on our own bikes for fear that it will permanently erase or damage the CDI. Any and all help or suggestions regarding this topic would surely be appreciated! Thanks, Ben.
  2. I have a 2018 KTM 250 SX and I have found my way to this forum because my ktm dealer is the only one in a two hour radius and does not know a lick about their own bikes. Also all of my family and friends have never had KTM's or Husky's. I race motocross and am in the Intermediate/B Class, I weight 185 pounds. So I was hoping I had some KTM gear heads on here to help me answer some questions. Warning: I am about to ask a lot of information so if some threads are already created just please point me to the link. 🙂 My main goal is kind of crazy in my mind... I need more longer wrap out time in 2nd gear but need 3rd gear to be snappy out of turns so I do not burn up my clutch. I ask this because a lot of the tracks I ride at in Missouri have pretty good size jumps right out of a sweeper or sharp turn. I dont like to hit them in 2nd right now because I get the Ronnie mac air boner affect in the air (because 2nd gear is very snappy and short). 1. Does anyone have any recommended adjustments for the RED power valve spring? (turns out/turns in?) Also what is the tool/socket I need to adjust, Robertson? What size? 2. Any recommended suspension settings other than the manual? 3. My manual says the bike has a Performance ignition map that can be plugged in? Is that correct or is that only for the EXC models? 4. What rear tire has everyone seemed to run on this bike, 120 or 110? 5. Hate the long silencer exhaust, Should I run the FMF Shorty or the ProCircuit Shorty? 6. What size rear sprocket seems to work best for motocross with this bike? 49? thanks for the much needed help!
  3. I'm finally getting my first KTM and i'm super excited. I will be picking it up this month sometime. I've done a lot of research and have gotten a bit overwhelmed with everything I have found online regarding the newer models. I'm talking about the lean fuel delivery, engines running hot, choked up air intake and exhaust pipe ETC. I want my bike to run as good as it can without spending a fortune on new parts and mods. adjusting the TPS looks promising and My dealer can install the Euro EFI map but he says you'll only notice a difference with a new pipe. can I mod the stock pipe to be more open? I'm just looking for some advise and suggestions before I get the new bike. I also ran into this site https://blaisracingservices.com/2012-2017-ktm-husqvarna-custom-ecu-mapping.html This looks really promising, has anyone ever done this? Thanks
  4. Happy Tuesday all, 3 more days til ridin' :). I just picked up a 17' Husky FE 501 and was anticipating having the option to switch my maps and turn traction control on and off. Yet, there is no switch mounted on the bike and I was so damn excited at the dealer that I looked it over. The pamphlet that came with the bike says that all enduro models are equipped with the switch. Haven't called the dealer yet, but wondering if you guys know anything about this. Kind of feels like false advertising by Husky and KTM, aka I'm not receiving the bike that I paid for.
  5. So I have a completely stock '15 500 EXC and with .585 vdc at TPS with 14/52 gearing and going to try13/52, seems to run fine with no issues. What would I expect performance wise if I de-smogged it & set TPS? Would a different map get me better low-end grunt? thanks
  6. Anyone running a Vortex ignition on a YZ250F 2014-2018, or 450 for that matter? What advantages does it have over tuning FI/IG with the GYTR power tuner, and are there maps readily available for stock or mod and race fuel? I've messed around with the GYTR tuner on one of my bikes- 2017 YZ250F with bolt ons and VP racing fuel, but there is a lack of maps to run and I've heard there is more power to be had with the Vortex Ignition. I'm aware there are other less costly avenues to add horsepower.
  7. Hey guys new member to tt but have found lots of helpful info here before. So i have a couple questions i was hoping the community could help with. I just bought a 2017 husqvarna fe 350 i have only put like 2 hrs on it and like it so far but its definatly chocked off with the smog junk and the airbox reeds after the first hour of break in i put on the fmf 4.1 slip on thats all ive done so far and the pipe definatly made an improvment but now i have a some decel poping telling me its running lean. My question is, what map r ppl running ive herd the euro map works good but the dealer is saying theyve had mixed reviews. I plan on de smogging it probably get the bds emmissions delete kit. Setting it up mainly for woods but would also like to get some sm wheels eventualy. Any suggestions or tips espically by some one with the same bike or 250 would be mega thanks n cheers tt
  8. Ok I've got some seat time on the new YZ and a bald back tire, so now I can report about a few things I've learned on it. I love power, and I've always wanted more in every bike I've ever had. On the '18, I found that the initial throttle response was actually too touchy for even me. I initially tried toning down the power in the 1/8 areas in the tune, but I wasn't really happy with that. I decided to check the rotation of the aftermarket aluminum throttle tube I had put on it when it was brand new and found part of the problem... The cable circle of the throttle tube I put in it was a little larger than stock so it made the throttle rotation less than stock. That makes it more like a quick-turn throttle. The other thing I learned? The stock throttle tube in the late model YZ450's is also larger than the carb models were. So here are the differences in degrees... '06 stock YZ450 tube rotates ~77 degrees '18 stock YZ450 tube rotates ~72 degrees '18 aftermarket tube rotates ~65 degrees (yikes!) My modded '18 aftermarket tube ~88 degrees So what I did was a mod I've done on other bikes, to machine the cable circle on the tube so that it has less leverage in the initial travel. Pretty much the same as what the G2 Throttle Tamers do. I like it! Which brings me to the map... I've tried a bunch of different maps, including the Travis Preston map. I read what MXA said about the dyno results of their '18 YZ450 before and after the TP map and personally I think they're full of cr@p. They said the '18 made the exact same power as the '17. Well I guess Yamaha lied then if you believe MXA. Personally I'd believe Yamaha. Then they said the TP map made 2hp more and "more horsepower and torque at every spot on the curve". lol. I don't doubt making 2hp more with tuning, what doesn't make sense to me is that the TP map is ALL ZEROS in the WOT cells which is where they'd dyno it. How does all zero's make more power than all zero's? Beats me. Anyway, here's the best power map I've run so far. The fuel mixture values are hard to pass or compare from engine to engine because different fuels change the mixtures. For instance, if you're running e10 pump 92, you're automatically going to be leaner than if you're running straight 92. Then race fuel changes it all over the place too depending on the fuel. But ignition timing is usually easier. More, up to the point of knocking, is usually better. I would assume at the compression ratios these engines run at that they would indeed be knock limited by pump gas. That means you'd end up knocking before you'd start losing power by adding too much ignition timing. So when you're experimenting with mapping, don't be stingy on ignition timing, as long as you're running good fuel. I've been running pump e10/92 with a gallon of C12 per 4 gallons pump gas (25% C12). All that does is insure I'm not going to knock even at the full 4 degrees the tuning app can add. So try this map and see how you guys like it! Last things... The Magura hydraulic clutch I put on the bike when it was brand new has been awesome. The Scotts damper in my opinion is a MUST HAVE and makes this bike not only still turn like crazy but also be super stable at high speeds. (I'm running the forks UP in the clamps actually.) The battery has been mentioned or wondered about on here, the longest it's sat has been 3 weeks and it started first try as usual. This bike has started in 40 degree weather the first time, every time, even after sitting for days. It starts in gear, out of gear, hot, cold, it really doesn't matter. The app is amazing, being able to put your ride info and any setting changes you've done after every ride is pretty cool and super easy. Changing maps is brainless and quick. The best suspension settings I've ended up with are still very close to stock, I'm running the fork a little softer than stock just for my personal preference right now. Can't think of anything else. The bike still impresses me every time I ride it. And it has succeeded in making a guy who was a little "bored" with riding after doing it for almost 5 decades excited about riding again!
  9. New to mapping, is this map safe? 2018 WR450f 443. -101 443. -1-10 443. -2-1-1 tried a bunch of the general ones. For my area and technical stuff this is what I like but my question is am I harming my engine with this map? I know I’m running rich and my mpg is probably really bad. But not concerned with that at the moment. thanks
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