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  1. All, First time on this forum, but it appears to be home of all great ADV advice, so I figured I'd give it a crack! I recently picked up a 2013 DRZ400S and have been puzzled by one issue I'm encountering after doing a few modifications in preparation for an upcoming trip. Changes I made: I installed a 28L Safari (Aqualine) tank. (NOTE: This tank has a manual petcock, replacing the "vacuum-operated" petcock on the stock tank. To compensate for the lack of a vacuum inlet on the new petcock, I have removed the vacuum hose from the right-side of the carb (stock Mikuni) and plugged the respective nipple w/ an appropriate fuel line plug.) I installed new jets from the JD Jet Kit and performed the "3x3" mod. (I have been very careful to select/install all jets according to the provided matrix/instructions.) I also replaced the carb's gaskets/O-rings with new ones from an OEM rebuild kit. What's happening now: On a cold start, the bike will not idle w/o being choked. (As expected.) However, when pulling the choke fully-out and starting, the bike starts and runs fast on its own for ~30 seconds. It then slows and dies over the course of the next ~10 seconds. (If I depress the choke at any point in this period, the bike immediately dies.) If I manually open the throttle throughout this process to keep the RPMs up until the bike is warmed, it eventually warms up and idles on its own (~1-2 minutes of manual revving) ONCE the bike is warmed up, it runs smoothly and per spec w/ the choke fully depressed. (Note: I have tuned both the idle screw and air/fuel mixture screw per the recommend procedure once the bike was warm. These tuning changes have caused no noticeable effect to the start up problem described above.) I expect some answers here of the "well then just manually rev it until it warms up" type, but I'm preparing for a long trip and would really like to at least understand what's preventing the bike from warming up on its own. Any/all words of wisdom are appreciated here, guys. Seriously - thanks for your time in reading and taking a shot at this!
  2. I have a 2017 250 XC-W, and after a head and ignition mod, I am pretty happy with the bike. However, I am curious to try the 36mm Keihin off my 2009 200 XC-W. There seems to be plenty of good feedback on this switch and the 36mm may just give the 250 that little bit of extra bottom end that I am after. I still run the old 200 quite a bit as they are just brilliant bikes, it generally take it out in the more gnarly terrain where running out of talent and sending it back down a rock ledge leaves me a little less concerned than the 250. So if I put the Keihin into the 250, I still want to be able to run the 200, hence looking for some feedback on putting the Mikuni on the 200? My 200 has a shaved and reshaped head, sxs hardparts pipe, Akro silencer and the option of running a 125SX CDI. In the 200, I have been running the 36mm Keihin with 40p, JD Red (200 specific triple scribe) #4, 168 main, A/S 1.5. I'm in Sydney Australia and generally run 1000 feet to 3000 feet and temps of 60f to 95f. I generally like to run on the richer side as the 200 is pokey enough but like all small bores needs what ever can help torque wise Any jetting experts care to suggest a baseline to begin with on the Mikuni?
  3. Hi folks, I'm new to TT. Seeking some help with an old pit bike (shown in pics). I didn't do the mods on this but saw some value and bought it cheap. It hasn't ran since shortly after I got it a couple years ago. When it did run it was blowing blue smoke I assume burning oil.. probably why it was bought so cheap. It has a 124cc Takegawa kit and I'm not sure the brand of clutch kit installed so I'm hoping you guys notice. It doesn't have any oil right now and I'm wondering if dumping oil in the clutch cover treats the whole engine and clutch or if they're separated inside. I think some oil and fresh gas would get it running again but like I said it didn't seem very healthy when it did run. Does the blue smoke I used suggest the top end needs replaced? Are these parts still accessible if so? Lastly, the sprockets don't align well and the rear brake hardly works. It may just need fluid but are there any good swingarm/rear brake kits out there for decent price? I'd about prefer to remove the swingarm/wheel/brake and start new there. Carb is a Mikuni, PC exhaust, if wondering. I'm not sure what the forks are from but they and the front brake work. Thanks for any help. Would love to get it built right and repost!
  4. Hey guys, im in the process of putting an 82 XL500r back together. Previous owner jerry-rigged a lot of things on this bike. Im attempting to get it back on the road. Currently it is not running, but the PO said it has "recently". Seems to have good compression, but haven't gotten it to fire yet. (Im aware of the kickstart procedure on the 500). Currently have a foam uni filter on it, as the stock airbox was damaged by the PO. All that to say, after a good cleaning, carb is still overflowing from the overflow valve (Float still sticking?). In addition to this, the accelerator pump is shot, and all the other rubber on the carb. What are my drop in replacement options? Trying to save a little time, find a carb that will jet easier with the uni, and potentially find a carb with available rebuild parts in the future. What are my options? Ive heard mikuni, but anyone have model numbers that will fit and work in this application? Thanks in advance for your help.
  5. Hello, Can someone tell me the manufacturer part number for the Mikuni carburettor for a 1996 Yamaha PW 80? Failing that, a picture of the inscriptions on the side of the carb. Would be interested if anyone has an original, OEM one for sale. Thanks, Alan
  6. Okay so I've recently rebuilt my 2006 drz400s I've got an E cylinder head and cams, a high flow air filter and a full stainless exaughst. I've also taken the solenoid off the bottom of the carb and removed the pair valve. I have a jd jet kit with the 160 main jet. And the blue needle with the clip in the 3rd spot from the top (I live in London, so cool and low altitude). And I have to fuel screw 2 1/2 turns out. My issue is that when I shut the throttle the revs stay high. Sometimes they drop after 10 seconds or so but sometimes stay high. I know it's not sticky cables as it still happens with them disconnected and I know I don't have a vacume leak as I've already checked the boots. I presume this is a lean mixture issue, I've tried turning the mixture screw out but it made no difference. What are my options?
  7. Wondering if anyone has had any luck with a non-chinese, non-OEM carburetor replacement for the BW80. I picked up an '86 sans-carb, and I cant find an OEM carb assembly anywhere.. lots of chinese knock-off for between $15-30, but experience has taught me that these are generally garbage. I have been considering a Mikuni VM18 or VM20 carburetor, but would like to know if anyone has had luck with these or a different assembly. The VM18/VM20 assembly would require installation of the carb such that the choke and adjustment screws would be on the back-side of the carb, which might be a PITA to get to. Thanks in advance
  8. Just bought a Husqvarna TX300 and the stock mikuni is giving me the worst gas mileage I have ever experienced on any 2 stroke. There is a little bit of spooge but not enough to seem extremely rich. Also, when I began running out of gas I would shut the gas off and the remaining gas in the bowl seemed to go forever. Perhaps the float if too high?
  9. Hi, Background: I recently acquired a 1993 dr350s and I cannot fix a rich condition; I am about to purchase a TM33 pumper carb off of eBay but I hate when I am not able to figure something out. Hopefully someone here is able to give some insight! Tried: The bike is 100% stock. I have replaced the vacuum petcock with a standard one, and replaced every jet and rubber piece float and needle with OEM Suzuki pieces, triple checked float height, the idle, main jet, and choke valve and seat surfaces appear to all be in perfect condition, etc. Symptoms: With the bike fully warm and choke off, the bike idles highest with the idle mixture screw all the way lean and dies if any choke is applied. It also smells rich, does not hot start, spits black soot, and pops on deceleration, low power, etc. The only unusual thing is where the idle mixture screw pulls fuel from there are three little pinholes drilled straight through into the throat of the carb. They do not look OEM, and I tried to epoxy them shut but I think I rushed it and the gas ate my JB weld... are these factory or did someone try to correct an old vacuum leak with this? Thank you!
  10. 2001 yz250 I need some assistence, first time user. I am new to this, aquired 3 two stroke like new bikes. They really need jetting know how and jets size MAIN JET AND PILOT. AIR SCREW. I will apreciate any help. I am a serious enthisiast with smokers. 2 Tiempo. I want it to clean real nice but im also running wiseco piston and do 30:100 MOTUL 800. Dont know to run the castor mixes? //////// I also have HONDA CR250 2003 with the mikuni and it needs some tunning!!! HAVE NO IDEA
  11. 1997 Honda XR400R with the Mikuni TM-36 pumper carb. Here is my issue. This doesn't happen every time I ride, but definitely happens enough to cause me some frustration. My carb is pouring out gas from the float bowl overflow valve. This happens the most when I'm stopped but has also happened when riding at lower RPMs. So I have cleaned it and ensured all parts are looking good. Great, kick the bike over, ride for a bit, pull up at stop light, looks down and the carb is still pouring out gas. Got new parts and delivered them, along with my carb, to my trusted mechanic to give it a look. From what we can tell, inside the float bowl the overflow valve is just a little bit higher than the float level inside the bowl. So when the float bowl is full of gas, and I keep the bike completely vertical, no gas leaks out...but when I have one leg down then the gas level in the bowl rises to one side and pours out of the overflow valve. Has anyone had this issue before? Heard of this issue before? And most importantly found a solution? I can live with this but I don't want to turn off my gas every time I pause while riding. Thanks!
  12. Seeking information from the TT Braintrust. So I have rebuilt the MT250 carb and I am having the dickens of a time getting it to run well. It starts easily enough on choke and when I click off the choke it bogs and won't run/clear out or rev up/down properly. And then every once in a while I get a runaway WOT until I kill the spark. I checked the throttle cable and it was not sticking (brand new) nor was it kinked holding the slide open. The float was overflowing so I took the carb off, removed the bowl and adjusted the depth to 20mm(spec). I inspected all of the jets and they are clear. I inspected all of the passages and they are clear. One piece of info that I have not been able to find is the stock settings for the air screw and the throttle stop screw. My manual has the conversion chart for sea levels and how many turns out from there but it does not state the basis point from which to start your adjustments. So thats first. Settings currently: Adjusted throttle cable end play on top of the carb to 1mm 122 Main jet 60 slow jet (may go up to a 65) e clip in middle position (slide) 2 turns out air screw 1 turn out throttle stop screw I have not reinstalled the carb yet as I want to make sure it is set correctly first before the arduous task of putting it back in place. I followed this for the setup but it does not mention the initial settings for the carb. http://vintagedirtbikeforums.alp-sys.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4843&sid=a4e64842164b6d5ce36e1c1753cebbf7 I may try this video - If anyone has any intel or tips to share I would appreciate it. Once I get a good tune on the carb I will make a video and post it for everyone as a reference. Thanks
  13. Hey everybody, first post after years of lurking. Saturday I traded my johnboat for another bike. A very rough 2006 ttr125 with a 150 big bore kit. (no idea who made the kit). She starts first kick no matter what, idles and runs great until about 7/8 to full throttle where it proceeds to fall on its face until I let up. Bike has an "aftermarket" carb that i'm having trouble identifying. The only marking on it is an "M" cast on the side of the body. the insides look brand new but the jets dont have sizes on them. I can post pics as soon as I get off work but without knowing what size jets I have i'm not sure what kit to purchase. Starting to think a new mikuni would be the best course of action. Any Ideas or discussion would be great. Thanks a ton in advance. -Ricky
  14. Hi Ya'll. I could use your expertise here. I have what looks like be a late 80's/early 90's Mikuni 38 MM carburetor. At least I think it's a 38MM. I bought it on EBAY for my '90 RMX250, but it's not the correct carb for my bike. The exhaust side port is too small for my RMX and the air/fuel screw is not the same. Also, the throttle cable insert is threaded in. Not so on my other 90 RMX. Are any of you able to tell me which model this is and what year/model bike it fits? I'm just trying to resell it. Any help is appreciated.
  15. Hello everyone, I have a KLX351 with a Mikuni TM33/34 pumper carb that I need to function at higher altitudes. I like in Colorado and regularly ride at 7000 ft. I would like to ride up some mountains that are above 12,000 ft. Is there a jetting setting that can do it all? 5000-12,000 or will I need to optimize the settings for a narrower range? Are jetting setting only good for about +/- 2000 ft elevation change? Thanks for your help,
  16. Hey guys, I put a Mikuni TM40 on my XR600R and really like it, but I always wondered if the FCR might be better. I ran across this EBay listing for a new FCR style carburetor. It doesn't show as a Keihin brand. Anybody buy one of these yet? Its a good price but I won't buy if the quality isn't there. I bought another XR and thought I would try an FCR on the new bike so I have one of each. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CRF-450-R-CRF450R-Carburetor-Carb-2002-2008-NEW/122835304977?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Dd8d46407b09b4518913684b5910695aa%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D253192404113&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507 Any input?
  17. Hi all... so been working on and off on this xl250 chop for a girl. I am on the latter stage, I hope. I converted it to a 12v/cdi electrexworld.co.uk because I couldnt get the 6v system to work consistently. I also got a new mikuni vm32 and I did the valves. With a new spark plug installed the thing will fire after 6-12 kicks and it runs, ok. Try to restart it and it acts like plug fouled. I am getting great spark and I have tested with timing advances/retarded, seems to start through out the range hover I feel like it starts best advanced (and thats a guess because I didnt get any instructions with the kit I am turning clockwise on the stator unit for advance?) Basically feels rich. anyways looking for some help with the mikuni vm32, I understand I might be on the larger side, been told vm30 would have been better but I need to make this work. Here is what is in the carb now: 185 Main, 35 Pilot, 6DH7 Jet Needle, 2.0 Air Jet, 159 P-5 Needle Jet. Do I drop the Main and the pilot? 175/27.5? Any help would be awesome. Also D8EA or D7EA for spark plug?
  18. I recently bought a 01 yz125 bikes mint just the carb pisses gas out the overflow, I pulled my carb out and gave it a good clean reasembelled it and put it back on. It was fine not leaking gas anymore so I went for a ride on it and it was fine for about 2 hours until I went to lean it up on a tree. Next thing i know its pissing gas again, anyone got any suggestions on what the issue may be? I'm thinking it's just dirt getting into the float somehow but I dont know where. I was thinking about checking the gas tank to make sure there isnt dirt all in there aswell.
  19. I've got an 01´ cr125 with the stock mikuni TMX probably the 36mm, i just got the bike. I've been riding it for awhile now and i can never get the idle to be set up right, and the power delivery seems very choppy. I just don't want to get lost in jetting with it because everyone just says its not worth it to try and get these things perfect. can anybody direct me to a forum that has information on the best carburetor to run on these for motocross? I think i'm leaning towards the PWK airstriker but which one? I would spend the money on a lectron but i would like some insight first I have the mechanical ability to re jet this carb everywhere i go but i don't really want too, i know you still have to adjust the PWK but i've heard it not as much. i'm going to ride it how it is right now because i'm not super picky, but i'd like to get into some racing next year and im saving up money to invest into my bike, i feel like the only thing on it that isnt quite ¨race ready¨ is the stock carb. some insight would be awesome! thanks -Devin bianco, 15y/o, not a good rider yet but trying my best to learn
  20. Purchased a 38mm Keihin PWK airstryker for my 2002 cr250. Fitting the new carb is an absolute pain and have had no luck getting it to stay in the boot leading to the reed cage and can’t even get the air boot on. Any tips/tricks? Thank you
  21. Before I installed the Mikuni carburetor, I rode my bike around with the stock earlier in the day, it was fine. The XR kicked over and I was able to ride, in context the bike had adjustment issues with the carb and idling with the stock and for many other reasons and as a gift I got the Mikuni Carburetor for my 2002 XR400R. I just received my package and I instantly go to install it. I get everything in the proper place, gas tank connected, and it just doesn’t kick over. I feel like I am missing something here. since the carburetor did not come with any real instructions, I went with how I put in the stock, and adjusted the mixture screw to the 1 1/4 as stated in my manual for California. I am sure I am missing something, anyone had a run into with this pumper carb?
  22. Any specific tips and tricks jetting the new 38mm Mikuni on the 300s? There is another thread here about 300 jetting but its pretty confusing talking about the older Keihin models in the same thread, since they are pretty different. I've got about 20+ hours on my 300 XCW (2017) and the carb feels mostly OK, maybe a bit rich. I expect its like all two-strokes, a bit rich from the factory to prevent accidental squeaks during break-in. My dealer sent out an email saying that a lot of their customers are not happy with the as-delivered jetting, and that they are working up recommendations 'shortly'. Of course, here in the East, riding season is quickly ending with hunting season and then winter. My only jetting related solid complaint is that the bike is hard to start the first time of a day (or week) either with the kickstarter or the magic button. Once its has fired, it restarts instantly, but it does not want to wake up.
  23. Hello guys was out at cahuilla MX yesterday on my 2004 cr125 and was messing with the mikuni all day , I was wondering if you anyone had any suggestions on if I should go with the keihin PWK carb or the lectron? Please let me know which one , thanks !
  24. Hello! I've checked this forum many times thru the years, when I owned KTM LC4 supermotos. Now I'm riding a streetfitghtered GSX1000R 2003 and... after years and years of lusting for some kind of dirtbike to explore the woods, I ended up getting a Beta Rev 270, year 2007, 2 strokes. Always had a thing for these little bikes but never ever seen one in person 'til I bought it! Apart from being still an ultra-novice in this field, I'd have a few questions about the bike... I always had 4 strokes, so the last smokey engine I had was a scooter in my teens. The bike starts at first/second try. When I got it, it was certainly running a bit rich, I backed the air screw a bit and it's already better... the bike has the crappy Mikuni 28 and I can't find a factory setting anywhere. It's not flooding, though, or spitting fuel out, so for now it might be fine. I'd be tempted to switch to a Keihin but there are so many chinese clones out there that it wouldn't be easy to get a real one, unless I buy new from a reputable source. Another small issue that's very annoying... when I start the engine and it's still cold, when I press the clutch and put the engine in gear, it will jump forward and die... it's basically like the clutch isn't doing its job. This doesn't happen anymore when the engine is warm. I also found out the lights don't work... I tried to connect another light to the headlight wires... nothing. But for this I'm going to pass the ball to a car electrician. Any advice for me? TIA!
  25. I recently purchased a brand new XR650L. I have already de-snorkeled and de-smogged it, have a K&N air filter, powerbomb header and FMF Q4 Exhaust. Also installed is a stage 1 dynojet kit. It works great but I find myself craving a more responsive ride so I have decided to upgrade my carb to the Mikuni TM42-6 flatside pumper. Its hard to find a good source on proper jetting for this application. The distributor I ordered it from says it comes "mostly" tuned for my application. Anyone have any advice on what jetting works best for this setup? Is there any other upgrades that you would consider essential to compliment the higher performance carburetor? I'm pretty new to all this and will appreciate any advice you guys have to offer
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