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Found 17 results

  1. I’m planning on doing a couple suspension mods on my 230 and I wanted some input before I took them on. My first mod is going to be a fork swap. My plan is to use 150R forks, Factory Connection fork springs, a custom triple clamp made by RSW Racing, XR250 steering stem, and 150RB wheels. I know there’s a few things I haven’t listed because I’m not sure of what else I would need. If you’ve done this before please let me know what else I need to complete the swap. My other mod is going to be the rear suspension. I’m planning on using a CR250 swingarm, Hagon shock, 150F linkage, and 150RB rear wheel. I’m wondering if this setup will work or if there’s anything I should change or add. I know there’s also a few things missing with the rear setup plan, like the bearings and axle, but again I’m not sure what to use for that. Any input on this would be great.
  2. Okay so i got my drz to run on the road and she runs well... But not for long... It dies while riding and takes a few tries with the starter to run, also the bike will only start on high idle, if im driving I can put it in low idle and the last choke. Ive cleaned the jets but i guess I didnt clean them good enough. Ive been thinking about ordering the oem jets and putting them in, but ive also thought about doing the 3x3 mod. What do yall think I should do?
  3. Ok, so I have had my DRZ for over 16 years now but for the last 2 years its been hell keeping it alive. I think its the carb.. but not totally for sure. I have rebuilt it three times in the last 2 years and keep finding junk in my bowl and jets. I have cleaned the tank, put in fuel filters and fuel lines.. I dont know if its coincidental but after getting my new tank from IMS its been down.. I asked them if the tank needed to be cleaned out prior but never got an answer. Its weird tho, each time I rebuild it I have to replace the pilot jet and the float valve and seat. It seems like it runs like new for one day.. but then its back to crap and not idling again. Just pops and dies.. then my pipe is glowing red hot.. I am about to give up on this thing. I purchased it in 2001 right from the dealer it had Calif License Plates and street legal. Love the bike when its running. So I have people telling me its my carb still.. I just took it out the other day blew it out with carb cleaner removed the jets and made sure all looks good. The carb is not leaking fuel so the float valve and seat are still good. I am thinking about buying a refurbished/rebuilt carb for 525$ is the best deal I have found.. But dang.. if that is not it I am really beating myself up good. Then someone from Kiehn said it was my Mid gaskets.. I am just really frustrated. If the replacement carb works I am going to tear this one down and replace the mid gaskets and go from there and test it.. if its good. then it will go on ebay and try to recoup my money back.. What do you all think? 2 years now if pulling that thing off and on and 3 full rebuilds.. Also I found this link on "How to DRZ400.." it shows a flat side like mine going on an SM model to swap out the mikuni carb.. I noticed one of the pics (see attached) shows to remove the Pilot air jet on the intake side of the carb.. why is that? Why do I still have mine(which I replaced every jet on the carb just back in November again). Also included is a link to it running and what it does, even with choke on its not as smooth as it used to be, DRZ Running Thanks in advance for any input.
  4. While checking my valve clearances and putting on a hot cam on the exhaust i noticed my intake cam was a tooth off. Read about stock hydro one sometimes not doing its job. so instead of buy one for $60 a made one for my '08 250 xcfw with a the following. 10x1 60mm long bolt. 10mmnut and oring to fit bolt. make the hex end round so it fits through the case. Slot the other end for a flat head thread into stock cap install and tension. lock the nut down. used some blue locktight to make sure no oil leaks out.
  5. Hi all, I have a 2002 YZ250F with this exhaust. I dont see any brand names or part numbers. I want to put a spark arrester in it but it doesn't seem to have any screw holes for the thing. I dont know much about exhausts, will any universal spark arrester work or do I need to change the cap? If I need to change the cap, does any universal cap work? Thanks
  6. I'm looking at doing a disc brake swap on my CRF230F but I'm not 100% sure how to go about it and I'd like to get some clarification. I've already lined up a blown 150R that I can get for cheap, so my plan is to use the wheels and disc brake setup from the 150R on the 230. I know I will need to hack and weld parts to make it work, but that's fine by me. I would appreciate any info on anything I should use or do, or if I should even use the 150R setup at all. Thanks
  7. I currently have a 2015 DRZ400S with 5k miles on it. I have the 39mm FCR carb installed, the airbox mod, and the MRD exhaust. I am looking to do the big bore kit with a set of hot cams to probably finish off the mods that I plan to do on the bike. My question is, with this bike at this mileage, is it necessary to replace or change anything else when doing a BB kit and cams? or is the bike still new enough and low mileage to get away with just bolting the kit and cams on? I just want to do it safely without risking anything, but also do not want to waste money on things I dont need. Thanks in advance for the input!
  8. Okay its not a new subject Im sure. But I want to release the power from this old 2005 Japanese spec Xr400 Motard. Where I live in the world its hard to get a dirt bike on the road and there is next to no XR's to choose from. The Motard came up for the right price and its in great condition. So I have decided to make the best of what I can with it. I need to find out if I can swap parts from the R version on to the SM version. From the info I have read the SM has smaller valves and lower compression. Will R barrel and head be the right direction to go? Stage 1 or 2 cam ? Pumper carbs and opening the air box is a no brainer I assume. And of course the exhaust will need replacing to match the the R exhaust port. Please if you know about the R or the SM chime in and give me some advice.
  9. Looking to add my first mod to the KTM. I love the new ride, but the burden of stalling still weighs heavily, especially with some of the strenuous trails out here in Arizona. I was reading that it's fully tunable to suit the rider and the terrain you're riding on, which can be vast out here. Ran into an experienced rider who had a Rekluse Radius CX Clutch kit installed on his bike, and highly recommended it. Looking to see if there's any other feedback on this product?
  10. I decided to replace my factory tool kit bag with a waterproof pelican style case. I did this for a couple of reasons. The case is waterproof, lockable and provides more space than the factory bag. I can keep additional items in there like ownership and insurance. Multi-tool and JB weld along with the factory tools. I think it looks cooler too, but that's subjective. The case I used is a Seahorse SE 56. They come in different colors. They're pretty affordable. The ridges on the bottom of the case line up with the bolt holes exactly. You pretty much need to drill two pilot holes right in the center of each ridge and then use a different bit large enough for the factory bolts to fit through the holes. After that, just go to the hardware store, buy two new bolts that are a bit longer than factory with two corresponding flat washers and a couple of rubber grommets. You can reuse the factory nuts (take them with you to the hardware store along with the bolts to find the correct longer bolts) Aside from that, you'll' need to buy two rubber grommets to act as spacers between the fender and the case. You should be able to source this stuff for less than a few bucks. Slide the bolts and washers through the inside of the case holes you drilled, place two rubber grommets on the fender around the factory holes and slide the bolts through the factory holes and the grommets and button her up. The case should remain waterproof since the inside of the case is all rubber. The washers and bolts snug up against the rubber and maintain the seal. It's a pretty simple mod and doesn't add much weight or cost. Let me know if you have any questions.
  11. I have a 2013 DR650SE, with heavy springs and intimidators because I ride to the trails and do a lot of off road, I have decided to do the USD forks. Luckily, I already have a set of 2004 WR450R 48mm forks and Triple Trees. I plan to keep the front end as close to the DR as possible by using the DR wheel. Since I have not seen anyone convert the original hub to a 20mm axle I figured I would try. Stem: I purchased the All Ball bearing conversion set for this. Will use a spacer or Press DR stem onto YZ bottom clamp Wheel: I ordered some 20mm x 35mm x 9mm wheel bearings to replace the 17mm x 35mm x 10mm. Fairing/mounting: I purchased a set of DRZ light brackets to mount everything. Will customize mounts for Ignition Switch and Dash.... Brake: I also ordered a 270mm Rotor bracket for the YZ forks and a 270mm rotor. DR Caliper mounts to the forks. My main issues will be rotor and wheel spacing. As I work through this I plan to post pictures of the build to assist others. I would prefer to keep the stock speedometer and thought about swapping the speedometer assembly box with the DRZ since it is 20mm. I know I could machine a top hat for the DR axle and that will be plan B if I cannot make it work on the YZ 20mm axle. If you have one I would buy it 🤪 Plan C, will be use a YZ front wheel and get a digital speedometer. Obvious I could change the hub, but that wouldn’t be as fun😉 Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
  12. Hi there, So I am starting racing with a new bike, 1985 (rfvc) Xr250r. This bike is a race bike, however I was wondering how to keep it cool as it is air cooled, now the oil I use doesn't tend to overheat too fast however after a full day of racing i'm sure it will. How can I install an oil cooler? I have read article about people modding the xr200r (Rfvc) to have one. But not how to do it... So How do I do it?
  13. Figured I would do a write up on my recently purchased 1986 XR600R. It's going to be a project but I have plenty of experience to do the full rebuild and between my two brothers I have access to quality welding equipment, shop with tools, mill, I do upholstery etc. Before I get into the bike itself, my end goal is to have a fun riding bike that will take me anywhere around town and down any dirt road and some actual off road riding. I intend to do a lot of the mods or upgrades described on this site to make it more reliable, run cooler and simply funner to ride. Plus I'm older and the bike is old school. I thought that maybe by describing a lot of the mods in one thread that it would be sort of a gateway to help anyone else looking to find what them easier. Some of the posts are older. The engine was said to have had new gaskets and was in good condition and the electrical was hacked up. When I looked at bike in person, the engine was put together and sitting in the bare frame w/swing arm attached. Everything else was in boxes and most of the typical more expensive items were there and the forks looked straight. The plastic had all been painted red and the frame had a new coat of black paint on it. I could see gasket material between the head and cylinder as well as between the cylinder and gearbox (so thinking if I were to purchase it I would be doing a total tear down). It was pretty clean and with everything that was included, I decided that for the $300 price tag, it was worth it even if I had to part it out to recoup my money. I brought it home and tore it apart. There were new gaskets put in the engine by the previous owner but the amount of gasket material used was insane. The cam isn't in the best shape. The center journal on the head has some wear. It will need some cleaning up and possibly some repair. I’ve attached pictures of the engine, some more detailed to show condition. While it is this far apart it’s going get some new parts. The previous owner didn’t know much about rebuilding engines and said he thought he put it together correctly. So I feel like I need to check it all for myself and have peace of mind that everything is correct. The list is not in any order and while I have it apart I will do the first few. Hot Cam- with a newer valve cover to use the Hot Cam for newer bikes. I would like to put a cam in it and from what I have read the Hot Cams Stage 1 seems to be a quality cost effective part and give the bump in power I am looking for. What other choices for a mild cam that will work with the mostly stock head setup? I will be staying with the dual carbs, c;leaned and jetted properly. I like them. Transmission mod of 2nd and 5th gears- Check the kick start gears, etc. The transmission is a no brainer since it’s already torn down this far and a lot of my riding will be on the street, some of it will be 60 mph plus between the local towns. I will be waiting on some of the other parts as well so if I have to order 5th gear overseas I have some time. I will check everything else once I get in there so I hopefully won’t have to tear it down that far again. 628 cc piston and bore- (it’s already been bored over). Hone and rings or a bore and rings. Upper oil mod for the cam- The upper oil mod may or may not happen depending on how things look when I put it back together. I have read where some say it is not needed but those that have done it really like it. Oil cooler mod- I feel this is a must to keep it cooler riding in traffic. I haven’t decided what I want to use, how big I want to go and where to mount it. Because these are expensive to purchase a kit and I have access to have mill work done for nothing I can kind of design it to fit where I want it when I get that far. Stator rewind- As for the stator I haven’t been able to determine the condition of the one I currently have. I have plenty of wire left over from when I did one on a CRF250. Header- The header is also up in the air as to whether or not I really need it. If I can find a good XL600 header at a decent price I may use that one or I might bend my own and decide on the muffler after that. Pipe- Most likely something aftermarket mainly because they are lighter and look better. I have a muffler that came with the XR and is from a YZ50F. Its' n good shape and I don't know if I'm going to gut it and use it or not. It might be a dumb idea but I had thoughts of an undertail muffler such as what is run on the 450 quads. LED headlight- similar to the Baja Designs light but will probably do my own design and will depend on what I use for a number plate. I’m not real fond of the number plate that ends up looking like something out or “Transformers”. CRF450 forks and triple clamp- This most likely will be one of the last things I do because I can ride it with what I have. I'm not set on a specific brand or model. It may depend on pricing and a great deal that comes around on whatever bike will fit it. Build the parts for a Summer style stabilizer- They are difficult to find in usable shape at a decent price. KTM fenders- I like the KTM fenders and their shape. Every XR I have had, at any kind of real speed the front fender bends from the wind pressure and either hits your front tire or bends to one side. I've cut the tips off which helps them not hit the front tire but they still bend at speed. Probably black fenders Fuel tank-I have had the Acerbis tank in the pics for a while. The only issue I have with it is it is molded in olive green. It has been painted (not by me) red and blue at some point but that can be removed. I suppose I will paint it white or make the olive color match into some sort of theme. Speedometer- I will probably use something similar to the Trailtech but not 100% sure on that one. I have LED’s for turn signals and a small battery to use if needed. Odds and ends like redoing the seat foam, riser bar and some of the other ergonomics will get done when I finally get it back together. It did come with a brand new spark plug installed but nothing that has been ran in the engine to see how it was running. Also came dry with no oil in crankcase. If I get real ambitious, I have a single sided swing arm and forks with brakes and wheels off of a Ducati 916 that was for a custom Harley street bike project that never got finished and has been abandoned. That would make a great looking super moto. For any interested I will keep updates on this thread as I go. This thread will help me keep things straight as I go and change anything where better ideas are presented. Feel free to comment.
  14. I have a 2006 yz450f. I sent my carb to zipty racing and they called and said they received it and would call back if they needed anymore info. Can anyone tell me exactly what they do to the carburetors when they modify them? I’m having them clean, rebuild, and modify mine with an R&D power bowl, billet hot start nut, and adjustable fuel screw.
  15. Hi all, newb to the site here. This morning I walked out to do the old song and dance with my KLX to see what broke overnight this time, and found that today's issue was the battery (I think?) Starter would turn over once and then the whole bike - lights, display, even the neutral lamp - would cut out. Weird, but I left it on the trickle charger and it seems to have fixed itself. Now I live at the bottom of a hill, and have consistent battery issues with this bike. This means my ass looks great from pushing the thing around to bump start, but more importantly that I'm looking for a better alternative. Has anyone here put a kickstart on their DRZ that didn't come with one, and do you have any advice as to whether it's a good solution? I know kits are out there and I don't think installation would be that much of an issue, just curious if there's any trouble or quirks with actual operation that I should know about that may make me reconsider. Thanks!
  16. I am in limbo... Should I buy supermoto wheels for about $500 dollars a piece, or do a "Hooligan Mod" style build for my wheels. The bought supermoto wheels will fit my bike and will only require install, but will be rather expensive. The built supermoto wheels (hooligan mod) will be cheap, but require a good bit of work to fit them. Note: I have a machine shop, lathe, welding skills, and lots of free time. Hooligan Mod Warp9 SM Wheels
  17. Hey guys, I recently bought a 2001 DRZ400s with 5000 miles and I'm having some trouble jetting it properly even after buying and installing the JD jet kit. Important bits: The bike has a stock exhaust and I did the 3x3 airbox mod. Previously it had the 22.5 pilot, 162 main, and the fuel screw had been adjusted (brass removed but stock screw). With this setup it was a quick little bike, but it popped A LOT on deceleration and it missed a little on idle. Now I've installed the JD kit with 22.5 pilot, 150 main, extended screw at 2.5 turns out, and blue needle at 3rd position. Currently with this setup it feels noticeably slower but it seems to run better, if that makes sense at all. It idles well so I assume the pilot and fuel screw are adjusted properly and it doesn't pop at all now on decel, but it feels really down on power especially in the top end. When I go WOT and then back off a little it seems to accelerate a little more which leads me to believe the main jet is too SMALL, but I'm already at a 150 with stock exhaust...that said, it had a 162 and seemed more powerful. Huh. My next step is to pull the spark plug and see what it tells me, but I'm hoping someone has some input for me. Am I the only one the JD kit hasn't worked out for? Thanks, J
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