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Found 22 results

  1. Just finished adjusting the valves on my 2008 crf250r, I kicked once and the motor turned over maybe one rotation and then it locked up. I thought the cam was set correctly but it' possible its off. I also forgot to use the engine locking bolt on the bottom side that locks it at tdc while working on it but I wasn' concerned because I didn' feel like I was turning the engine the chain while working on it. Before the valve adjustment it kicked over fine. What could the issue be?
  2. Hi I have an 01 yz125. I bought this last year with it needing the top end replaced. I’m mechanically inclined just new to the two stroke game. Well I replaced the top end after I bought the bike and the hole motor takes a dump so now I’m stuck trying to basically figure out the interchange years for the motor, top end jug, and bottom end. When the motor went out it bent the connecting rod messed the inside of the jug up pretty good and of course the piston was trashed I need help fellow riders please and thank you in advance.
  3. Ok so i know there aren't many snowmobile guys on here but its more so an motor based problem, and their are lots of motor experts on this. So i have a 1998 polaris 488 indy super sport. Its a 2 cylinder 2 stroke motor(air cooled), no power valve system and about as basic as it gets. I got the sled not-running for free and the compression was too low to start, i wanted to keep it cheap so i put new rings in it and now the compression is back to where it should be. After the rebuild it fired right up and the first time i took it through the yard it barely had enough power to make it around. I ended up thinning out the gas mixture with the needle and clip in both carburetors, and it decided to run very well. I took it up and down the yard a few times and it ran perfectly. I had it running perfect for about 45 minutes and then i parked it. i came back a week later, i was about 10 minutes into my ride when it started bogging and running like crap again. Its hard to describe how it runs but i will attach a video to demonstrate. It is very boggy at low rpm, very little throttle response. But if you let the rpms rise and get to powerband, it sounds like it should and has good throttle response. keep in mind this is in a neutral position. it will not idle without me applying little pressure to the throttle and even then it runs boggy. When you try and drive the sled here is what happens, first it bogs down until you hit medium rpm range, then it hit power band and speeds up for about 5 seconds, then if you keep holding the throttle it bogs down until it will eventually kill. It reaches close to max rpm and powerband is decent. If you don't get it started right away it eventually floods itself, it will also not run or start with the choke on. I've ridden many of these sleds with the identical motor so i have an idea of how they are supposed to run. I'm just looking for a head start of what might be wrong so i don't throw unnecessary parts on it. here are the things i have done with it since then: Cleaned the carbs, adjusted fuel/air screw, cleaned fuel pump, new rings/seals/oil lines and filters/ spark plugs are brand new and gapped Here is what i suspect is wrong: To much gas is getting to it, reason being is i can see gas actually shoot backwards out of the carbs sometimes, wont start with choke Let me know if you need more info or you have an idea, Thank you I can’t put the video on this apparently but if you want it I can dm it*
  4. Here's the deal, bought a 2008 wr250x last year. The bike had 16000 km on it. The bike worked great for the first month. Then it had a hard time starting and then it wouldn't start unless you jumped it(would start fine on button when warm) with clutch but then it would run fine all day. Took it to the dealer and they adjusted the shims and know it runs fine. The dealer told me the next time this happens the bike would need a complete over haul do to the wear and its has the lowest shim they could get it. They told me It may work fine for a month or Year or two maybe but then its not going to start again. Last year when I called the guy I bought it from and asked him did he every had any trouble starting it, He said Sounds like you need to get your valves checked. Did he shim them at dealer and they told him the same thing so he sold it to me? How would he know it was the valves? Manual says 26k and I only got 16k. I only put 800k on it why would they go out of whack so fast. I'm pretty confused on the whole matter. Just looking for any input thanks.
  5. I have a 2005 crf 450r dirt bike with a blown motor with un repairable cases. my question is that what years are the motors the same? I believe the "second gen" crf 450 is from 05-08. so knowing that an 08 motor is identical to an 05? just want to be sure before I got buy a right side crank case from an 07 and an 05 left crank case. any feedback will be greatly appreciated! #projectbike #rebuildingmotorproblems
  6. I recently bought a 2004 Honda crf250r needing a complete rebuild. It’s missing the head and jug and am having trouble finding a 04. I was wondering what heads will work and what won’t. Also if I found a newer bike motor could I just install that on my 04. Thanks
  7. Okay its not a new subject Im sure. But I want to release the power from this old 2005 Japanese spec Xr400 Motard. Where I live in the world its hard to get a dirt bike on the road and there is next to no XR's to choose from. The Motard came up for the right price and its in great condition. So I have decided to make the best of what I can with it. I need to find out if I can swap parts from the R version on to the SM version. From the info I have read the SM has smaller valves and lower compression. Will R barrel and head be the right direction to go? Stage 1 or 2 cam ? Pumper carbs and opening the air box is a no brainer I assume. And of course the exhaust will need replacing to match the the R exhaust port. Please if you know about the R or the SM chime in and give me some advice.
  8. I am looking for a complete engine for my 1987 yz80 and would like to put a yz80 back into it. What years will mount up without modifications? Where can i find one? I would love to get it running for my little brother so anything helps! Thanks
  9. Has a Wiseco top end, v force 3 reeds, 11oz Steahly fly wheel weight, FMF Gnarly exhaust, and a FMF powercore 2 silencer. This is one of the best dirt bikes I've ever owned and ridden. It's a bullet proof motor and it's never left me stranded or gave me any problems. I'm planning on getting a Lectron carburator or a Smartcarb carburetor because I hear they are like fuel injection for a 2 stroke.
  10. KLX250s 2009 I want to rebuild the top end, - new valves - new head gasket - new rings Can I do it without removing the motor? how much work does it take & do I need any special measuring tools?
  11. So I picked up a complete 2008 RMZ250 in really good condition super cheap. Has issues but seem fixable namely kickstarter function and possible water pump. My question after reading alot of this thread on crankcase issues and transmission issues is this... what should I definitely seek to do to remedy as many common issues as possible with this year/model? Also what is most common to look for in these when pulling the motor apart and rebuilding and what should I address regardless while I have the cases split? Aside from seals/bearings. I hear the "shift detent spring" is a potential pending VIN split as it was more of an 07' issue. Below is what I've dug up on this year/model please expand and explain why if possible. Worst case I'll be cleaning and parting out a bunch of parts or stuffing a different motor in the frame and getting experimental. List: Check for crankcase failures on right case via kickstarter and or clutch vicinity due to weak casting in cases Shift Detent Spring and tumble the transmission to fix occasional false neutral **sometimes going with different oil fixes it**
  12. I am a long time reader and finally created an account and bought my first bike, a 2013 Yamaha Yz250F. I come from the street bike world owning and riding all types of bikes. I currently own a Multistrada 1200s and that bike convinced me to get my dirt bike. I am excited to get into a new hobby but I have two questions. The first question is when to change the bottom end? My bike supposedly has 40 hours on it so I will be doing the top end next week and checking the valves. I see all these posts about bikes blowing up and I dont want that to happen. I am the third owner on the bike and the second owner sold it to me because he only put 20 hours on it in 2 years and didn't have enough time to ride it. The bike does need some tlc so I already ordered new cables, grips, levers, filters, and brake hoses. I will refresh the plastics last. Mechanically I am pretty good at tinkering with things and have watched a rebuild of a 2004 Yz250F on YouTube and I feel like I can do it, I even bought the service manual to assist me. I will not be racing the bike and I bought it to explore the land around me (Midwest). I will also give it all it has once in a while to have fun. Let me ask you this, given this info, should I buy the tools and replace the bottom end as well? The second question is I tore down the bike to give it a nice cleaning and found a huge gouge in the upper fork tube. Time to replace the upper tube? I will attach photos at the bottom to show you.
  13. Hey guys I have a SSR that I picked up last summer and would really like to ride it this summer my only problem is I dont know the model number of this SSR and it has NO Compression! So I need to figure out what the model number is on this bike, or what exactly the motor is so I can buy parts for it. The VIN on it is A5SDD2R3ECC001463 I have also attached a bunch of photos and can upload more if needed. Also if you guys have any ideas on why I am not getting compression I would love your input on that as well. I replaced the carb and now I just need to figure out the compression issue. Thanks so much. I will be active on here!
  14. trying to get my motor to run better. working on the TOP END Kawasaki klx250 valve specs exhaust: 0.15-0.24 mm intake: 0.10-0.20 mm First Time: took it apart to check the valves. (without removing tensioner) put it back together changed the oil notes: it was making a tapping sound (prob the chain ) shifting bad Second Time: took it apart again, reset the timing, reset the tensioner and sub tensioner checked the valve clearance -exhaust: 0.14 and 0.15 mm -intake: 0.13 and 0.10 mm notes: after the second time runs a lot better , shifts smooth as hell and no more chain noise **but slight tapping noise and a lot more backfire , this is what I'm worried about** I want to get the exhaust to around 0.21mm (I think the tapping is the valves) slight hesitation , I think its the carb or exhaust
  15. Hey everybody. Quick question for y'all. I recently went riding and about halfway through my ride my motor seized on my '07 CRF250X. I haven't investigated it much but I checked the oil when I got home and there basically was none so I'm assuming that was the culprit. There weren't any metal shavings in the filter or on the plug either. At this point I'm trying to decide to rebuild the motor or just sell the bike as is and let the next buyer deal with it (they would know the deal obviously.) I feel that I'm pretty mechanically inclined but rebuilding a CRF engine is a bit out of my league and I assume paying a shop to do it would put me out more money than the bike is worth. So, I have this question to ask; what would be a fair price for a pretty dang nice shape 07 CRF250X, with a seized motor with an unknown extent of internal damage?
  16. Hey everyone I have a 1999 cr 125 I have the complete bike motor and all but the motor needs a transmission and top and. I found a 2003 motor for pretty cheap now can I put my crank in that 03 motor or use the transmission and put it in my motor also can I inter change the jugs?thank you in advance
  17. Hey guys, Looking for some information and advice. Have a 2006 DRZ400S with 10,600km on it. Just picked it up. It had been sitting since sometime in the fall, maybe September. It started and ran for a couple minutes. Run down of what I've done: took the carb out and apart, wanted to give it a clean. Found the O-rings on the float needle seat, and the main jet holder were deteriorated. The rest of the carb seemed ok. Checked the oil dip stick, smelled like gas. Makes sense, carb must have been leaking gas into the motor. When I removed the carb, there was a puddle of gas in the engine intake. I went to check the valves, got the valve cover off, then went to take off the caps so rotate the engine and line up the timing marks, and as soon as I started unscrewing it oil, or more like gas, started coming out. Got the oil pan under it, and cracked the case oil drain bolt... a mixture of gas and oil poured out, A LOT came out... I don't know how much volume is available in the engine, but the amount of gas/oil that came out filled the entire oil catch pan, must have been 4 or more litres. Not good... I rotated the crank and lined up the timing marks, the cam lobes seemed to be in the correct location, the lines all made sense I think. I checked the valves: EX= 0.23mm-0.25mm IN=0.15mm I was able to rotate the engine with the spark plug still in... should I be able to rotate the crank with the spark plug still in? Does the auto decomp allow this, or is there an issue there? The engine rotates, it isn't stuck or anything, however it seems that it gets a little stiff at the top of the stroke, and at some point makes a click. Here is what I can see so far: The cams appear to be in good condition to my untrained eye, thoughts? Appears to be properly timed, 15 pins between teeth, little confused by the numbers on the cams, no idea what they mean. Also I'm assuming these are the stock cams, I don't think any work was done on this motor. Looking down the intake at the intake valves. I also stuck my scope down the spark plug hole, but it was too big to get into the cylinder to see anything meaningful. So, what to do next... do the cams look ok? What would the gas in the motor have possibly damaged or done? Could it have hydro locked the motor and blown something (hence turning over even with the plug on)? Best way to flush the system of the gas? Should I pull the head? I'm thinking yes just so I know whats going on in there... this would be the first real motor work I've done. Just wanted to get some opinions. Thanks in advance!
  18. Howdy, I'll start off saying that my question is actually regarding a 2012 Husaberg TE250 but since they have virtually the same engine, I figured there would be more KTM 250 XCW owners that have encountered this problem. I got home yesterday from a race and went to start the bike up via kick. But as I pushed the lever down I could hear the electric start gears turning. Nothing sounds like it is grinding, just gears that are turning that shouldn't be turning. Also, immediately after my race I went to start the bike with the electric start and it definitely took a few extra turns of the motor to get running. It sounded more 'slappy' and rattly than normal as I held the start button down, but I was wiped out by that point so I can't be completely sure of what I was actually hearing(nor do I wish to recreate the noises by testing the electric start). Additional info... I had the clutch basket(which is attached to the gear that is engaged by the kick start) and inner clutch cover removed about 2 weeks ago to replace the shift lever shaft. This process included removing the kick start lever and the gear on the clutch basket, but not much else of the kick mechanism. I know I'm gonna have to open it up again but I just want to get an idea of what I should be looking for once the covers are off. I appreciate any wisdom you can share! Hoosleberg
  19. Hey guys, could use some help here... I have a 2008 KTM XCR-W 450 with a new engine knock sound coming out of it. I noticed the noise yesterday and it just seemed to get worse throughout the day (Possibly placebo effect...). I'm positive it's a new noise, and I'm not too thrilled about it. Bike runs perfect, power delivery is unaffected, it's just noisy as heck. Knock is most noticeable at idle and on deceleration, but goes away as soon as it revs. Also, pulling the clutch in while at idle also stops it. I've read about a few things that could cause noises; loose primary nut, timing chain, cam tensioner, etc. However, it's worth noting that the bike only has 30 HOURS on it (I bought it at 14 hours in spring of 2016 from an older guy who bought it new and never rode it, and I expediently broke my leg soon after, so I haven't had much seat time either). I find it hard to believe that something big like those things could be bad after only 30 hours... Anyways, see following link for video of the sound it's making. https://youtu.be/fNf0Nc_XNzQ I have a big camping trip planned for Dumont in 3 weeks, so I'm a little rushed to fix this... And it seems most of what I've read about is over my head, so I'm very heavily debating taking it into a dealer and letting them deal with it. So, two questions I suppose... Does anybody have a dead simple answer to what could be causing this? And if it's not a dead simple solution, does anybody have a ball park figure of what a dealer might charge to fix it? I've never had dealer work done, so I'm kind of going in blind. As always, THANKS in advance!!
  20. First i want to thank everyone for their input into the vast amount of knowledge that can be found on this site. It makes life a bit easier and interesting for people like me. MY question is about fitting a ltz400(or klx400)cylinder head onto a drz400. I've searched the forum quite a bit and need to be sure a couple of things. 1. I've read that the ltz400 head is a direct fit for the drz but i would need to plug the manual decomp if i'm putting the cylinder head on a drz400s model. How exactly is this done?I'm assuming the ltz400 head has manual decomp 2.If i were to buy a ltz400 head to put onto a drz400s, would it make a difference whether i bought the assembly parts (cams,valves,shims,springs,etc) for the drz or for the ltz? 3.I've read that the klx400 head is a direct fit also. Is there a specific year klx400 that only fits? Thanks in advance for the responses!
  21. I'm looking for a motor builder that could sponsor me, something along those lines thats close to ohio. I currently race a yz 125.
  22. Anyone know if the 2020 motor will fit in a 2017 or 2018 frame? Can it only fit in a 2019 frame?
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