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Showing results for tags 'motor'.
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The RM125 seems to be in good condition. It has recently had a full engine rebuild. My CR85R is in good condition and I just rebuilt my top end and put a new rear shock and wheel assembly on it. Do you all think this would be a good trade and why or why not?
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Hi I have an 01 yz125. I bought this last year with it needing the top end replaced. I’m mechanically inclined just new to the two stroke game. Well I replaced the top end after I bought the bike and the hole motor takes a dump so now I’m stuck trying to basically figure out the interchange years for the motor, top end jug, and bottom end. When the motor went out it bent the connecting rod messed the inside of the jug up pretty good and of course the piston was trashed I need help fellow riders please and thank you in advance.
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Just finished adjusting the valves on my 2008 crf250r, I kicked once and the motor turned over maybe one rotation and then it locked up. I thought the cam was set correctly but it' possible its off. I also forgot to use the engine locking bolt on the bottom side that locks it at tdc while working on it but I wasn' concerned because I didn' feel like I was turning the engine the chain while working on it. Before the valve adjustment it kicked over fine. What could the issue be?
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Ok so i know there aren't many snowmobile guys on here but its more so an motor based problem, and their are lots of motor experts on this. So i have a 1998 polaris 488 indy super sport. Its a 2 cylinder 2 stroke motor(air cooled), no power valve system and about as basic as it gets. I got the sled not-running for free and the compression was too low to start, i wanted to keep it cheap so i put new rings in it and now the compression is back to where it should be. After the rebuild it fired right up and the first time i took it through the yard it barely had enough power to make it around. I ended up thinning out the gas mixture with the needle and clip in both carburetors, and it decided to run very well. I took it up and down the yard a few times and it ran perfectly. I had it running perfect for about 45 minutes and then i parked it. i came back a week later, i was about 10 minutes into my ride when it started bogging and running like crap again. Its hard to describe how it runs but i will attach a video to demonstrate. It is very boggy at low rpm, very little throttle response. But if you let the rpms rise and get to powerband, it sounds like it should and has good throttle response. keep in mind this is in a neutral position. it will not idle without me applying little pressure to the throttle and even then it runs boggy. When you try and drive the sled here is what happens, first it bogs down until you hit medium rpm range, then it hit power band and speeds up for about 5 seconds, then if you keep holding the throttle it bogs down until it will eventually kill. It reaches close to max rpm and powerband is decent. If you don't get it started right away it eventually floods itself, it will also not run or start with the choke on. I've ridden many of these sleds with the identical motor so i have an idea of how they are supposed to run. I'm just looking for a head start of what might be wrong so i don't throw unnecessary parts on it. here are the things i have done with it since then: Cleaned the carbs, adjusted fuel/air screw, cleaned fuel pump, new rings/seals/oil lines and filters/ spark plugs are brand new and gapped Here is what i suspect is wrong: To much gas is getting to it, reason being is i can see gas actually shoot backwards out of the carbs sometimes, wont start with choke Let me know if you need more info or you have an idea, Thank you I can’t put the video on this apparently but if you want it I can dm it*
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I have a 2009 klx 110 with a totaled engine and I'm wondering what type of engine I could replace it with. I've searched but only found engines for Honda crf 50's and cant find any that would hook up to a klx 110 frame. And before you say fix the current motor, the transmission is garbage, engine blew up so it also needs a top end rebuild, and both the engine cases have been broken with pieces missing. This happened because the slot where the Kickstarter shaft went into the case broke inside the engine and someone continued to run it while a chunk of the engine case was bouncing around inside. Also I'm wondering if they sell a kit where I could mount brackets on the frame to put a motor made for the Honda engines.
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So I've got a 1993 husky wxc250 2t , but that doesn't matter too much I just need a starting point on something that went wrong. I was about ten minutes into my ride when this happened - I was about halfway through third gear, not an excessive rpm, and I heard a very aggressive noise from the motor, I pulled in the clutch and coasted to a stop (the motor had died). I was almost positive I had blown the motor and it was going to be seized. But when I pushed the kick starter down everything was fine. I pushed it back home, pulled the plug, turned it over, turned it through all the gears and nothing felt wrong. So I figured I would just start it up and give it a shot. I started it up and it sounded fine on idle, but as soon as a gave it any throttle a very loud "clanking" noise came from the top end. Almost comparable to a rod knock, but I can tell it is coming from the top end. My best guess would be something in the power valves, I am experienced with working on motors but power valves are new to me. What do you guys think it is? I'm just looking for I tip before I tear into it. Thanks in advance - Devin
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I have a 2005 crf 450r dirt bike with a blown motor with un repairable cases. my question is that what years are the motors the same? I believe the "second gen" crf 450 is from 05-08. so knowing that an 08 motor is identical to an 05? just want to be sure before I got buy a right side crank case from an 07 and an 05 left crank case. any feedback will be greatly appreciated! #projectbike #rebuildingmotorproblems
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My question is, what exactly is the difference between a Stage 1 exhaust cam and a stage 2 exhaust cam? My 2002 yz250f still has the original cam with a decompression lever and I’ve adjusted the valves, air filter, etc....and I still have a hell of a time starting the bike so I’ve decided on doing the “mod” of swapping out the old cam for a 03-09 auto decomp. exhaust cam, there aren’t a lot of used ones for sale on eBay, but a lot of stage 2 and stage 1 from various parts warehouses. I don’t want to jam myself up with a loss of power since the bike runs so f***ing good with the old cam already. Thanks in advance guys...
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I know the title doesn't really explain it much, but here's the basics. I have a carbureted 2018 TE250, and I have been wanted to make my motor alot more lively. I made a thread asking people how I could acheive this, and most of the replies I got told me to swap out the head and cdi to those of a SX/TC motor. After doing a lot of research, I decided that I wanted to make my engine as close as I can to a TC250 motor. By looking at a ton of owner and shop manuals I have found that the primary differences are: head, cdi, jetting, flywheel weight, and gearing. I have already decided to do the head and cdi (ordered and going to be installed before the next trip). The gearing I am thinking about going from 13 to 12 teeth on the front sprocket, event though I know this won't get me anything like the SX gearing, at least I can link the powerband a bit better. The only other mods I have done are a lectron HV carb, vforce reeds, fmf turbinecore silencer. So my question is what can I do to make my motor as close to the SX motor as possible?
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Help please! 2011 XR650L 20,000km I decided to replace rings, piston and hone cylinder due to some markings on skirt. after putting all back together as manual said I cannot get bike to start. It rolls slow and seems to slow on rollover during compression cycle. Checked spark, then put a bit of fuel in cylinder directly. No luck. marked timing chain to the tooth it was on, market sprocket bolt to bolt hole. Kept chain installed on bottom sprocket whole time of rebuild by pulling tension up with mechanics wire. we watched video on chain tensioner re install and did with zip tie method, it was difficult but appeared to go like video said. any ideas please?? Could it be too much tension on timing chain due to it maybe not being positioned perfect?
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Here's the deal, bought a 2008 wr250x last year. The bike had 16000 km on it. The bike worked great for the first month. Then it had a hard time starting and then it wouldn't start unless you jumped it(would start fine on button when warm) with clutch but then it would run fine all day. Took it to the dealer and they adjusted the shims and know it runs fine. The dealer told me the next time this happens the bike would need a complete over haul do to the wear and its has the lowest shim they could get it. They told me It may work fine for a month or Year or two maybe but then its not going to start again. Last year when I called the guy I bought it from and asked him did he every had any trouble starting it, He said Sounds like you need to get your valves checked. Did he shim them at dealer and they told him the same thing so he sold it to me? How would he know it was the valves? Manual says 26k and I only got 16k. I only put 800k on it why would they go out of whack so fast. I'm pretty confused on the whole matter. Just looking for any input thanks.
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I recently bought a 2004 Honda crf250r needing a complete rebuild. It’s missing the head and jug and am having trouble finding a 04. I was wondering what heads will work and what won’t. Also if I found a newer bike motor could I just install that on my 04. Thanks
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I am looking for a complete engine for my 1987 yz80 and would like to put a yz80 back into it. What years will mount up without modifications? Where can i find one? I would love to get it running for my little brother so anything helps! Thanks
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Has a Wiseco top end, v force 3 reeds, 11oz Steahly fly wheel weight, FMF Gnarly exhaust, and a FMF powercore 2 silencer. This is one of the best dirt bikes I've ever owned and ridden. It's a bullet proof motor and it's never left me stranded or gave me any problems. I'm planning on getting a Lectron carburator or a Smartcarb carburetor because I hear they are like fuel injection for a 2 stroke.
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Okay its not a new subject Im sure. But I want to release the power from this old 2005 Japanese spec Xr400 Motard. Where I live in the world its hard to get a dirt bike on the road and there is next to no XR's to choose from. The Motard came up for the right price and its in great condition. So I have decided to make the best of what I can with it. I need to find out if I can swap parts from the R version on to the SM version. From the info I have read the SM has smaller valves and lower compression. Will R barrel and head be the right direction to go? Stage 1 or 2 cam ? Pumper carbs and opening the air box is a no brainer I assume. And of course the exhaust will need replacing to match the the R exhaust port. Please if you know about the R or the SM chime in and give me some advice.
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I am a long time reader and finally created an account and bought my first bike, a 2013 Yamaha Yz250F. I come from the street bike world owning and riding all types of bikes. I currently own a Multistrada 1200s and that bike convinced me to get my dirt bike. I am excited to get into a new hobby but I have two questions. The first question is when to change the bottom end? My bike supposedly has 40 hours on it so I will be doing the top end next week and checking the valves. I see all these posts about bikes blowing up and I dont want that to happen. I am the third owner on the bike and the second owner sold it to me because he only put 20 hours on it in 2 years and didn't have enough time to ride it. The bike does need some tlc so I already ordered new cables, grips, levers, filters, and brake hoses. I will refresh the plastics last. Mechanically I am pretty good at tinkering with things and have watched a rebuild of a 2004 Yz250F on YouTube and I feel like I can do it, I even bought the service manual to assist me. I will not be racing the bike and I bought it to explore the land around me (Midwest). I will also give it all it has once in a while to have fun. Let me ask you this, given this info, should I buy the tools and replace the bottom end as well? The second question is I tore down the bike to give it a nice cleaning and found a huge gouge in the upper fork tube. Time to replace the upper tube? I will attach photos at the bottom to show you. -
I have a 2006 kx250f that’s engine is trashed. I can’t find motors for my year specific but I can find motors for 17s 18s 19s and 20s. Can I engine swap the newer motor to the older bike?
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So I picked up a complete 2008 RMZ250 in really good condition super cheap. Has issues but seem fixable namely kickstarter function and possible water pump. My question after reading alot of this thread on crankcase issues and transmission issues is this... what should I definitely seek to do to remedy as many common issues as possible with this year/model? Also what is most common to look for in these when pulling the motor apart and rebuilding and what should I address regardless while I have the cases split? Aside from seals/bearings. I hear the "shift detent spring" is a potential pending VIN split as it was more of an 07' issue. Below is what I've dug up on this year/model please expand and explain why if possible. Worst case I'll be cleaning and parting out a bunch of parts or stuffing a different motor in the frame and getting experimental. List: Check for crankcase failures on right case via kickstarter and or clutch vicinity due to weak casting in cases Shift Detent Spring and tumble the transmission to fix occasional false neutral **sometimes going with different oil fixes it**
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KLX250s 2009 I want to rebuild the top end, - new valves - new head gasket - new rings Can I do it without removing the motor? how much work does it take & do I need any special measuring tools? -
Hey everybody. Quick question for y'all. I recently went riding and about halfway through my ride my motor seized on my '07 CRF250X. I haven't investigated it much but I checked the oil when I got home and there basically was none so I'm assuming that was the culprit. There weren't any metal shavings in the filter or on the plug either. At this point I'm trying to decide to rebuild the motor or just sell the bike as is and let the next buyer deal with it (they would know the deal obviously.) I feel that I'm pretty mechanically inclined but rebuilding a CRF engine is a bit out of my league and I assume paying a shop to do it would put me out more money than the bike is worth. So, I have this question to ask; what would be a fair price for a pretty dang nice shape 07 CRF250X, with a seized motor with an unknown extent of internal damage?
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trying to get my motor to run better. working on the TOP END Kawasaki klx250 valve specs exhaust: 0.15-0.24 mm intake: 0.10-0.20 mm First Time: took it apart to check the valves. (without removing tensioner) put it back together changed the oil notes: it was making a tapping sound (prob the chain ) shifting bad Second Time: took it apart again, reset the timing, reset the tensioner and sub tensioner checked the valve clearance -exhaust: 0.14 and 0.15 mm -intake: 0.13 and 0.10 mm notes: after the second time runs a lot better , shifts smooth as hell and no more chain noise **but slight tapping noise and a lot more backfire , this is what I'm worried about** I want to get the exhaust to around 0.21mm (I think the tapping is the valves) slight hesitation , I think its the carb or exhaust
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Hey guys I have a SSR that I picked up last summer and would really like to ride it this summer my only problem is I dont know the model number of this SSR and it has NO Compression! So I need to figure out what the model number is on this bike, or what exactly the motor is so I can buy parts for it. The VIN on it is A5SDD2R3ECC001463 I have also attached a bunch of photos and can upload more if needed. Also if you guys have any ideas on why I am not getting compression I would love your input on that as well. I replaced the carb and now I just need to figure out the compression issue. Thanks so much. I will be active on here!
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So I'm looking into buying a used KX450 due to the price to performance ratio I am seeing compared to Honda/Yamaha bikes in my area. I can easily get a KX sub 3k where any 450 class Yamaha/Honda is 4k plus, even early 2000 models. I'm buying the bike for a potential project and had a few questions I wanted answered. 1. The price.. The lower price of this bike compared to the other big 2 seems kinda worrying, is there common issues, high cost of replacement parts, insanely high maintenance compared to the other 2, lack of reliability, or something else I need to be concerned with? 2. The wrenching.. Speaking ONLY OF THE MOTOR, for my street-bike project I am going to steal the motor off the bike, that is what I am mainly concerned with getting information about with this post, what kind of common issues does the motor/transmission have for what model years? Is the carb super finnicky, does it like to eat piston rings or valves, ect.. I'd be looking at doing long distance travel with the project bike AND AM NOT AFRAID OF DOING OIL CHANGES WHILE ON THE ROAD, LOW HOURS BETWEEN CHANGES DOES NOT BOTHER ME. I figure I'd get maybe one day of road travel, setup camp, then do the oil change and burn the old oil on the campfire to keep it running longer into the night. (Don't @ me about "boo hoo poor environment" crap, I could care less, burning it is better than dumping it into a drain or on the ground to be soaked into the groundwater, soaking wood in oil is a common trick to keep logs burning longer and hotter.) 3. Reliability.. So like with my CRF450X in the stable, I know these bikes are meant for racing, or for hard enduro riding, and maintenance is to be expected. But with the CRF you can put a TRX ATV piston in it that has more piston rings to resist blow-by, it sucks off a single horsepower or two but I'll gladly take the longer oil lifespan over having the bike being able to output maximum power 24/7, the project will NOT be getting ridden hard. Also, can the engine survive off a single radiator if there is a fan slapped to it and running anytime the bike is in operation, or will it overheat? Would a single oversized (thickness) rad work if stock size won't? Any issues concerning general reliability for the rest of the bike in terms of transmission, bearings, kickstart, carb, ect? I highly appreciate any information, cheers guys!
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Hello everyone. I can’t find any good topics on a bad tip over sensor on a 2013 kx450. So my problem started when I hit a jump my bike sputtered and booged as a left the lip of the jump and then when I landed the bike stalled out so I pulled off and kicked the bike over stared up just fine and rode it about 3 feet when it died. Now every time I start it it has no problem but dies with in 30 seconds and the launch control light is flashing. I believe it could be the tip over sensor but not a 100% sure. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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So I have this yzf426 that needs a new crankshaft. I'm finding it a little difficult to find a 2000 yzf426 crank assembly. So I need to know if the 2001 crankshaft would work. Thank you!
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