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Found 15 results

  1. Hey All, I have a question about needle taper and how it affects fueling? 2003 DRZ400S (E model FCR39, 3x3, E Header with fiber wrap, Stock S muffler with endcap mod, and stock S cams). JD JEtting stage 2 Kit for DRZ E model, not for the S model with FCR Current Carb Settings: -155 main -Blue needle 2nd clip from top (DRZ E taper profile) -Coast enrichener removed -everything else stock E Carb settings (including slow jets, and air jets) -idle screw = 2 1/8 turns out (and idles perfect) I ordered the EMN needle as per suggestions from other TTers My Question: I was just wondering what the EMN needle would do to my AFR graph? The taper chart doesn't make sense to me. If you see the attached image, my AFR seems to be rich at 1/4 and 4/4. I believe the EMN needle will flatten/richen out my mid range. So, to compensate I also bought a 150 main. Is this a correct assumption? PS. Is the first rich state the AP effects? I know it's too rich because it's not a punchy as a pumper should be. I'm saving up for a leak jet kit/power bowl/AP cover, but was just wonder what effects to look for when I start tuning more in the next few months as funds become available? Thanks! Note: Blue is first run with needle clip in 4th from top. Red is 5th run with needle 2nd from top to lean it out. Note:
  2. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  3. Okay guys so I recently picked up a 2001 YZ125. I had to completely rebuild the top end and when I was looking at the stock Mikuni TMX slide it was cracked. This part is basically impossible to find and when I found one it was over $200. Figured I might as well buy a new carb. I picked up the Keihin PWK 38mm airstriker. It comes with the JD jetting kit but the jetting is completely different from stock it seems so I have no idea about a baseline so I was wondering about some help or to hear what you guys run. Here’s what my bike has: Complete Athena stock bore top end Pro Circuit r304 + platinum expansion chamber elevation ~ 500-1500ft pump 93 + 32:1 premix
  4. Hello all, Im in a bit of a snafoo. I’m in the middle of revalving my forks on my 93 rm250 (45mm showas) and I’ve come to realize that I am missing the needle valve from one of the forks. I’m looking all over for a replacement, but I can’t find anything. Does anybody have an idea of where I can find this part? It’s discontinued so im doubtful that a new part is available anymore. mfg # 51192-43D00 damper rod needle ive included some pictures to help anyone understand which part I am looking for. It is part #14 on the diagram.
  5. Here is a modification of the stock air screw for my 2006 KTM 250/300 XC-W. I took the stock air screw and drilled a hole in the screwdriver slot end, then soldered a section of brass treaded rod into that hole. A little bit of vinyl tubing screws over that. Then I took a knob that I found at a hardware store and drilled it out so that the vinyl tub fit inside it. A little bit of hot glue to hold the knob on and it's good to go. It's pretty easy to reach at a dead stop, and the vinyl tubing flexes so the needle won't get damaged if it gets hit with a foreign object. You know trees, rocks, dirt, the ground, etc. I ride between 3500 and 7000 feet and find that a quarter turn here and there keeps the bike running great. YMMV Good Luck Buckwheat
  6. Hello guys, Summer of 2018 I bought a 1987 XR600, after few kilometers the engine died. The cause was a stuck check-valve in the oilpump. So I decided to do a full engine rebuild. I have 90% of the left engine case ready. Crankshaft had a rebuild, new bearings. But when I had everything in, I was doubting about the hole where the clutchpushrod comes through. Mine was missing the “Guide lifter rod” Honda OEM: 15171-KN8-000 Looking on ebay 80% of the left engine cases where without the plate, but I wanted to do it correctly like the exploded view of CSMNL showed me in the “transmission “ section. So…….. : - Pulled the (new) bearinghousing out. - Placed the “guide lifter rod in it” - Placed another New ( ☹ ) bearinghousing in it. Then I started to have doubt about this part I put in, it was blocking the oilflow to the oiljet. So this couldn’t be right. I tried to look in the manuals or online but after 30+ years of XR nobody is talking about this part. The manuals also don’t explain or refer to this part. Looking at the oilflow diagram i'm worried the oiljet will not function. Oilflow diagram, engine oil will sort of exit the left crankcase and will return through the pushrod hole. Part what i paid for but now regret, it's the #1 . This forum is full of experts, so please let your knowledge be shared! Shall i get the part out, and go back to how it was?? Does anyone know more info about this part? Thanks, CJ Netherlands
  7. I’m currently at stock jetting on my 2003 yz250f. I’m rebuilding the top end with a 269cc big bore kit and installing an FMF power core 4 with megabomb exhaust. Current elevation is 700’ above sea level. Where should I start with my jetting? And where can I buy individual jets so that I don’t have to buy an entire assortment? Currently: 178 main 42 pilot needle is 4th Clip from top (stock)
  8. Hello everyone, I have a 2003 yz85 that seems to have issues at around 1/4 throttle under load. It makes starting from a hill damn near impossible, although starting from flat ground is no problem. Spark plug is fairly new and the color looks good on it. I just rebuilt the carb completely with all new stock jets, needle clip was on the first clip (full lean) so i left it at that. It has a airbox mod, Twin air filter, and Pro circuit silencer so its possibly too rich and needs a larger diameter needle? It idles and runs well, rips really well in the powerband, just seems like it struggles to do hill climbs if it falls out of the powerband while doing so. Also on a unrelated note the clutch arm seems to not want to return fully under its own spring tension unless the clutch is fully pulled in and then released. I think it may just need the spring replaced on the clutch actuator arm but i am not sure. I am also unsure how to remove the clutch arm in the first place. Any help with these issues would be greatly appreciated. Running 93 octane at 40:1, trail riding only no track use. Not sure when the last top end was done on it, it was probably awhile ago but compression still seems good. Edit: forgot to note I am running +1 tooth on the rear sprocket, although now I think I should have added 3 or 4 teeth to it and this wouldnt be an issue.
  9. I have a 2017 250 XCW. Swapped out the mikuni for a 36mm keihin which came with JD Kit. I have in the 38 pilot jet, the 165 main jet, and blue needle in 3rd position. Bike feels weak on the bottom end, not good enough for technical sections. I would guess it seems lean. I ride at sea level and temperature has been 40 to 50 degrees lately. New to jetting, what should I change?
  10. Hi, have an 84 pe 175 and really struggling getting the bike to run properly. Carb was thick with crud, so replaced the pilot and main jet, along with the needle valve assembly. Set the needle midway and mix at one and half turns out. Didn’t run great and raised the needle clip up to lean it out, and 2 and half turns on mixture. Runs ok, but does have a flat spot from close throttle to full open and is dumping fuel back into the box and leaving a puddle. And I can’t understand why. As I said replaced the usual suspects, checked the float and level and all seems good. And although the carb looks good, can’t determine if this worn out, Reed valves or I’m Just being stupid? Any advice would really help, as its doing my nut. Cheers
  11. je207

    needle jetting

    I am looking to upgrade my 2017 Yamaha ttr230. Can someone recommend what size of needle jet I should get and where to purchase it from? P.S. - I know I should've purchased a 250 or better but I chose the ttr230 because of the durability and low maintenance of the bike!
  12. Does anybody in a snowballs chance in hell have a needle for a 1998 kx125 carb? I broke mone and guess what... obsolete. The part number is 0XHHK, or 16009-1982. Any help appreciated
  13. I am currently rebuilding a 2002 yz 125. The stock carburetor was junk but fortunately I have a take off carb from my 2017 ktm 300 which is an updated version of the Mikuni tmx. I have installed the needle, main, slide and pilot that come stock in the 2004 yz 125. The only piece left is to figure out what size needle jet came stock in the 2004 carb. The 2002 had a s9 stock. Does anybody know what the 2004 came stock with? I have r8, s1, s4, s7, and s9 available. What one should I install?
  14. Hey! I'm working on jetting my kx250f for high altitudes - it originated at almost sea level and I live at 8k. I'm on the needle and ran into some confusion upon taking the old needle out. It is almost twice as long as the nedles in the jd kit I have. Do I not have the right needles to replace rhis with or is it ok to switch these out even though they are different lengths? Thanks
  15. Hi, i have got a question from my dear friends. My yz450f 2009 sputter at the steady and fix rpm and at the fixed throttle .for example at the 2000 rpm or 4000 or 7000 . When i fixed my hand it the throttle and fixed the rpm even low or high or mid rpm it begins sputtering and dont worked good.acceleration is good and declaration is good and without misfire or backfire. Bike starts at first kick even cold or hot. I do wheelie without any problem . but sputter at fix rpm. Carb?? Jetting? Coil? Exhaust? Spark plug is good.air filter clean.carb clean coil resistance measure correct . I Really dont know where the problem is. Plz help me.
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