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Found 9 results

  1. Hey everybody, let me start this off by apologizing for not only beating this dead horse, but pulverizing it into a thousand little pieces. I have a 2007 WR450f and I am converting it to a supermoto. I've purchased a tusk wiring harness, Headlight Head Lamp Bulb Socket, turn signals , flasher relay, horn, brake switches, a handlebar switch (with hi/lo, horn, and turn signals) and I also have a keyed ignition switch. I decided to order all of these parts because they are the same parts as the guy from THIS VIDEO. I did this so I could just follow his steps and not worry about anything. The first issue came up when I found out his method of using that headlight socket to get power to his relay wouldn't work because 1) His bike is newer than mine and uses a different headlight bulb etc and 2) It appears his bike has a headlight relay and my '07 does not. He uses that relay to cut the power to his electronics just by using the factory push on/of switch. So killing power to the electronics without a switch isn't possible because I dont have that relay...okay thats fine. I wired my stock headlight to the hi/lo beam on my new handlebar switch and it worked just fine for a bit...and then it would only work on the low beam and when I turned the switch to hi it would turn the light all the way off....not sure why it worked fine one minute and the next minute this happened but OKAY I can live without hi/lo beams. Here is what I did step by step with links to what I watched/looked at to guide me. I took off all my plastics/gas tank etc and ran the harness through the bike. I installed the handlebar switch, horn, turn signals, ignition key. I wired the new headlight socket up but had to take that out and rewire it back to stock (kind of?) and in doing so the hi/lo worked for a minute but then only hi/off worked. I plugged in the turn signal, horn, flasher relay plug from my handlebar switch to my TUSK wiring harness. I took the wires coming from my stock tail light and ran them through and connected them to the tusk wiring harness. Plugged the turn signals into their respective places on the harness. I then connected the tusk wiring harness to my battery using the supplied connectors and double checked everything was in the proper place etc etc. Turn on the bike....NOTHING works. I mean nothing (except the headlight) Before I put the blinkers and everything on I had already hooked up the pressure switches to the front and rear brake and had it working fine. After I switched the brake pressure switch plugs into the tusk wiring harness the brake lights didn't even work.... THE FUSE!!! After I got over being bummed nothing worked... I started going through everything to see what was wrong and the little fuse thats included with the TUSK wiring harness was blown....but why? I followed instructions from the TUSK install video itself...why did the fuse blow?! Do I just get a new fuse and try again?! The only differences between this video install and what I did is I didn't use their "kit tail light"I kept my factory one I just cut their harness plug off and wired them individually and I also didn't get front turn signals only rear ones. ANYWAYS....Since I wanted to go riding the next day and needed my brake light and headlight working I unconnected everything and put everything back to how it was when I started (after I had put in the front/rear brake pressure switches. I am now (not before) getting my headlight power straight from the battery (I think) which is spliced into the brake light with the pressure switch wires. As of now the headlight works, the running tail light works (very dim) and the brake light works (very bright). I know someone is going to say I need a stater/rectifier upgrade but according to everybody, I dont. Lots of people have done what I am trying to do without those upgrades and using the same parts I have but for some reason I am just coming up empty with this install. At the end of the day all I REALLY want is a working headlight, brake light, and turn signals. If someone can tell me step by step instructions on how to either A ) Make everything work or B ) Make my headlight, brake light, and turn signals work...I will be forever grateful. I am honestly willing to send you money if you can help me figure this out.... Again, I am so sorry I know how much people hate old problems being brought back but I genuinely need help. I am not an electrician and know only the VERY basics so after I follow instructions and shit still doesn't work.... I am just lost....PLEASE HELP ME I DONT KNOW WHY THIS IS SO HARD FOR ME TO DO!!! Here are links to each part, video, and diagram I used: Install Videos: Video I used to order parts from/attempt first install from Official TUSK enduro kit install video Handlebar switch for headlight hi/lo  (I used the diagram they show in this video and it worked at first but then only worked as on off/hi beam switch) Parts: Wiring harness Turn signals Flasher relay Handlebar switch Brake switch x2 Horn Ignition Key Headlight socket (not using anymore but was installed at one point without bulb)
  2. To make a long story short I just moved back to Arizona after living in Hawaii for the past few years and I bought myself a used 08 KTM 250 SX. I haven't ridden a bike in roughly 3 years since my first bike was stolen while I was living in Hawaii. Anyways, I didn't have a bike when I lived here in AZ before so I am trying to figure what some good places to ride are. I am mostly interested in desert riding and preferably areas or trails that would be more beginner friendly. I didn't have a huge amount of time in the seat prior to my last bike getting stolen, so I want to take things nice and slow at first while I get back into the groove of things. I currently live in Wickenburg, so anything close by would be a definite plus. I had heard there are places to ride out towards vulture mine here in Wickenburg, but I have also heard you may need a permit of some kind to go there because its state trust land? Any info on this would be helpful as well. Thank you in advance.
  3. Hi, First post. So I cleaned the centrifugal oil filter and while I had the crankcase cover off, I decided to inspect the clutch plates. After reassembly, the bike sounds great but will not go into gear. Neutral light is on suggesting its in neutral. Im 99% sure the plates went back in the correct order as I only had them loose for a few minutes. My one concern is that when I reinstalled there was about an inch of play (the discs inside the clutch basket) I don't remember that being there before disassembly. Thanks for any insight!
  4. Hello all, i just recently purchased my first dirk bike! I bought a 2007 KTM xcf-w, and boy does she run like a dream! Theres just one problem, i have a small oil leak. ive located where the leak is and i believe its just a gasket thats leaking and needs redone. However, there are wires running in where the leak is happening so i am maybe thinking the leak is caused by the wires allowing oil to seep by? I added a picture so maybe some of you mechanics out there can point me in the right direction. I am going to order a whole gasket kit for my bike unless someone thinks it could be something else entirely. Thanks in advance for your recommendations and your time!
  5. Hi, I am completely new to all of this kind of stuff and I am considering buying this 49cc engine https://www.ebay.com/itm/47cc-49cc-Engine-Motor-2-Stroke-Transmission-Scooter-ATV-Mini-Quad-Dirt-Pit-Bike/362488268587?hash=item5465fc072b:g:TL0AAOSw9mBct9Sy. I don't have a pit bike yet but I want to get the engine running just to learn the basics. What do I need just to get the engine on its own running? I don't have a fuel tank so can I just use a plastic bottle? How to I get the throttle connected to something? Do I have to wire it up with anything or can I just connect a fuel tank and start it? Do I need to add oil? Thank you soooooo much
  6. Running a 25 PJ 170 MJ and Needle at notch 4 (I think..its either 3 or 4) JD Kit. Yoshi RS2 Full Pipe. Snorkel removed (no 3x3) Performance is great, nothing to complain about. But can it be better? I'm pretty new to bikes, so I get help from a friend. We were discussing trying other settings to see if there is improvement. Wondering if anyone else is running a similar set up and has an opinion. thx
  7. Hi, here goes my first thread as well as my first post on here! Name is Matt. Been a reader for quite a while and have learned a ton from these forums. Anyways, i'm 24, and have liked motocross bikes since I was 6, my uncle was an mx rider here in the northeastern ohio and shoot mainly all over ohio (greg urban, 803, rode hondas say something if you know him lol) but ever since I was a young gun i was in love with bikes but never had one of my own, just a 90cc dinli 2 stroke quad my gramps got me in mansfield on the farm when i was about 12, lol! That thing and that farm are long gone, they didnt pay taxes and ended up gettin screwed for it, lost everything, all the toys, boats, quads, golf carts, had to sell it and move to somewhere much more affordable. My family isnt the smartest but theyre pretty cool. ANYWAYS. I am 24 now and just recently had the chance to grab a bike to work on, ive spent my live doing other things like skateboarding, going to school, working full time, moving in with a girl etc. So I just found a 1990 yz125 on offerup for 200 bucks. I was dead broke at the time paying court costs n whatnot but I pulled together 100 bucks and made a deal with the guy to pay him 50 a week for the rest, since I had practically nothing and had literally just started a new job. So he was down and we met up and I got the bike. (QUESTION: Can i post any sort of htm image codes so I can post these pics throughought the thread? Cause if so im gonna edit the heck out of this thread and make it way more organized.) I brought her home. The reason it was so cheap is because the crankshaft was seized. The piston is in good condition, the cyclinder as well, no scratching or chipping, leading me to believe the issue could be in the main crank bearing. The guy I bought it off of has been in close contact, i see him once a week or so and we talk bikes and about the parts i'll need and whatnot. So my next step is to grab my next paycheck, finish paying him and bring the engine back over, split it open with him, and see if its just the bearing or whole crank assembly. Either way, pretty stoked about the deal, and the piston and cylinder being in such great shape. Im gonna attatch the pics of the bike and the engine! The cylinder head is taken off as well as the pipe and kickstart but here she is. Any input is appreciated! This is my FIRST bike and if anyone has any pointers about working on 2 strokes this old, I would REALLY appreciate it! Thanks yall Also if anyone notices anything that I am not saying, please do say something! Or if there is anything super critical to check. I plan om getting a manual when I find one and literally checking every single thing that can be loosened and tightened on it. Matt
  8. A common problem with the 450-530 KTM's is a leaking/weeping water pump seal. You look down and notice a drip or wet trail coming from the weep hole on the water pump cover and know it's time to change the seal. The water pump seal is installed backwards at the factory and will eventually leak, some take longer than others to do it. My last 530's water pump seal started weeping at around 80 hrs, my current 530 just started leaking at 51 hrs. I've had a few people email me asking questions about changing the seal out so I thought I'd take some pictures this time around. Parts Needed: *Water Pump Seal (outer). KTM Part Number: 0760102455 (Note: Some people will carefully remove the seal, flip it over and re-use it without any problems...nothing wrong with that but I prefer to just change the part out since it's open). *Water Pump Cover Gasket: KTM Part Number: 78035053000 Tools that you will need on hand: *Torque wrench in In/lbs *8mm Socket *10mm Socket Handy Torque Values: *Nut, Water Pump Wheel: 6nm (4.43 lbs ft) Loctite 648 *Screw, Water Pump Cover: 10nm (7.38 lbs ft) Start by draining the coolant, remove the coolant drain bolt (Red Arrow) and place a suitable catch pan under the engine (I like to use a long funnel to direct the coolant into the pan). Note: When you pull the bolt a small bit of coolant will drain then it will stop, you then have to open the radiator cap to let air into the system so that it will continue to drain. Open the cap slow, otherwise you will get coolant everywhere :deal Keep track of the copper sealing washer on the drain bolt so it doesn't get lost, also make sure it's installed upon re-assembly. After the coolant is drained remove the remaining three water pump cover bolts (Blue Arrows). Loosen the clamp on the water pump cover hose connection and remove the cover from the bike. If your careful removing the cover the gasket will usually come off in one piece and can be reused...that being said I usually like to change gaskets with a new one when removing/installing covers. This picture shows the different length bolts for the water pump cover and their position. Take note of which bolts go where so you can get them back in the correct location. Remove the water pump impeller nut (Blue Arrow). Carefully pry the water pump impeller off the shaft, go slow so you don't damage the impeller. Here I'm using two small screw drivers to wiggle the impeller off the shaft. Water pump shaft with the impeller removed. And here's the problem with the stock pump seal. A spring loaded lip seal should always be installed with the spring twords the pressure, this way the pressure pushes with the spring and helps make a good seal on the shaft. The stock seal (Red Arrow) is installed with the spring facing the weep hole (inward), allowing the coolant pressure to fight against the spring and leak if everything isn't perfect (spec of dirt that entered through the weep hole etc). Keep track of the spacing washer (Blue Arrow) that's located behind the water pump impeller. Make sure this gets installed behind the impeller during re-assembly or your impeller will bottom out and bind with the case. There are a couple methods to remove the outer water pump seal. You can blow compressed air in the weep hole and use the pressure to push the outer pump seal out, this method can take high pressure to make it work and several tries. You'll also be forcing air through the inner pump seal and you'll hear it venting out the transmission vent hose. If you don't have access to compressed air or you don't have luck with the compressed air method you can use a drill and a screw to remove the seal. Place a small dab of grease on the tip of a small drill bit and drill a hole through the outer water pump seal. (The grease will collect the small metal shavings and keep them from getting on the inner seal). Keep light pressure on the bit so when it pops through it doesn't damage the inner seal. Continued Below.... Hodakaguy
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