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Found 153 results

  1. So I bought a ssr 125 very fresh hardly riddin bike and I went and changed the oil I put what the book said 10w 40 regular car oil and after about a 30 mile ride I was looking thru the book and see. That it needed 10w 40 4 stroke motorcycle oil so I changed it the next day do you think I hurt the bike at all ??
  2. 2003 KTM 250 sx has no gear oil fill plug because previous owner put after market carbon fiber cover on right side need help because I'm pretty sure its low but I can't check nor fill
  3. Hello, this is my first post on these forums. I have been reading some posts to try to learn about common problems with my motorcycle. There are a great many dead threads, but there are also several very helpful people who put up guides to do stuff. Okay, here we go. I have a 2004 XR650L with about 10k miles. I have about 200 miles on the new top end, and things are looking good. I have yet to check valve clearances and I think my cam chain is loose, but none of that matters unless I can get this bike to stop dumping oil. When I first got it, the previous owner told me that the oil should be checked while running and with the dipstick screwed in. I trusted this against my better judgment, figuring that the bike was just quirky. Well, there was understandably never any oil on the stick unless running, and the short story is that the bike burned up and I replaced most of the top end. Now, I check the bike just like my car and everything goes 100% smoothly. I don't know if I am just lucky or stupid, but the bike shows proper oil level if checked exactly as the book says. I rode about 100 miles yesterday. The first 100, the bike didn't leak a single drop of oil, but yesterday it started leaking. I was riding between 5 and 15 miles between stops, and by the end of the day, about 12oz of oil was missing. I checked the spot it was leaking from when I first got it, and I found that it was spraying oil from underneath where the starter goes into the starter gear cover. I thought at first it was the side cover gasket, but after putting RTV black around the top of it with no good results, I have decided that it is most likely spraying from the starter O-Ring. My questions: Should there be so much pressure that the oil is spraying out of the O-Ring? If so, is there a strategy to smush the starter in and get a good seal? I feel like just getting out some more RTV and sealing with that instead. Thanks!
  4. Hello. My CRF450R 2011 have leaking (oil with coolant) from water pump drainage hole: I install new mechanical seal (7), oil seal (16) and new bearing (15): Filled new coolant and run my bike, all was fine, but after 15 minutes I got heavy coolant leaking: Disassembled again and noticed that "head" of mechanical seal is disconnected: What's can be wrong? Looks like problem with slight tightening (torque) (12 N/m) of impeller (part #6)? Sorry for my bad English.
  5. https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-98JA11-10W-40-Racing-Motorcycle/dp/B004U8JH84/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1524178510&sr=1-10&keywords=amsoil+10w40+motorcycle+oil will this oil work in my drz400? if not what are some suggestions?
  6. Greetings, I bought a used KTM 250exc-f 2017 with 138 hours on it and now it got about 153 hours. I change oil every 5 hours or less and there has never been anything alarming on the oil filter or in the magnet plug, but there is always some debris on the oil screen like shown in the attached picture. The bike runs great and there isn't any alarming noises or leaks etc.. Is this normal? Do other KTM owners experience this as well? BR, Teemu
  7. Hi everyone, ive got an eighties PE 175 I’ve recently restored, which I’m running silkolene comp 2 premix which is ok, but I don’t think it’s really any good, although everyone raves how good it is for older dirtbikes. I was thinking of bel ray or Castro’s as I ran these on other bikes when I was younger ( more for the smell) I’m rebuilding the engine later in the year, and if it’s anything like the bodges I seen on the rest of the bike it will all need doing so I wanna run it something that wont kill everything. Thanks in advance
  8. Hi all, Recently bought a 2004 crf230f and wondering which oil I should use in it? Was talking to a mx racer and he recommended Shell Rotella as it's inexpensive and great quality. Any thoughts or advice? Does it matter that Rotella is a oil for diesel engines? Also, which one should I use the T,T5 or T6? Thanks in advance
  9. Hey guys Recently took out my 2005 WR450 for a few hours and came back, parked up, all was fine and have left it for 2 weeks. I went back to the bike today and the oil is very milky and the coolant bottle empty. I started to drain the oil and fill up the coolant but to my amazement the coolant was going down so quickly it was actually pouring straight out of the oil sump.... So my question is, what could be the problem? maybe broken seals or gaskets somewhere? Thanks
  10. Hi guys ive got a big problem. ive had a 07 ktm 250 xcf for a while and it has worked great for me. Ive always kept up with maintenance and keeping it in good shape. But my problem is, someone recently bought it from me and he is saying it is losing a lot of oil through some big black overflow tube. I have no idea what overflow tube this could be. I changed the oil pretty recently before I sold it, I didn't follow the proper procedure of running the bike for 5 minutes then changing the oil. But I forgot and changed the oil while it was still cold. Does anyone have any ideas?
  11. I have a 2003 yz125, it’s excessively dripping oil out of the silencer and where it meets the exhaust, there’s a lot of oil, it’s throwing out huge amounts of smoke and starting to foul out plugs. I’ve already replaced the clutch side seal (I’m almost positive it’s coming from the transmission oil) and repacked the exhaust. After that it seemed to stop or at least slowed down. After sitting for a couple months I changed the transmission oil once again and started it up, I let it warm up and didn’t feel like it had the normal amount of power and kinda bogged down, we revved the hell out of it and it cleared up and felt normal. We loaded up and drove out the the desert and I started it with the choke on and let it idle, after about a minute it died and wouldn’t turn over at all. We came back home and took out the spark plug and it was fouled replaced it and it ran again. The next day the same thing happened. Any thoughts on what I should do? The engine was recently rebuilt and I only use it for trail riding and run about a 40:1 ratio. Thanks
  12. I bought this last year as my local shop didn't have motorex. But then I looked at the ratings are different and I didn't use it. It's the same price as motorex but I would just want to use it up if it's safe for the bike, if not I'll let my old Volvo eat it up 🙂 i was worried that it might damage the clutch as it's designed for cars?
  13. KTM 250sx leaks a large amount of oil or splooge from the exhaust where the exhaust connects to the muffler or the head and some leaks from the large exhaust piece that 2 strokes have, idk what it's called exactly, sorry. I believe it's an exhaust leak making it leak from those places, but I'm only worried about if it is bad for the bike to leak like that. Is it supposed to leak that much? I don't have much experience with 2 strokes, and I want to know if it is okay for the bike to stay leaking that much and through the exhaust like that? I will eventually seal it, but it is significantly more than my kx100 did, which I would expect obviously. Ik 2 strokes are supposed to do this, and the guy I got it from knows a lot about bikes, especially 2 strokes, and he said that is okay, just want to make sure.
  14. Fellow thumpers, I was given a brand new court of Ams Oil full synthetic engine oil and transmission oil. The Ams Oil engine oil is 10W-40 and the transmission oils is SAE 80 My bike is a 2012 CRF 250X. My owners manual calls for 10W-30 engine oil, and I've been getting both engine oil and transmission oil directly from my Honda dealership. My question is this, will it affect my bike at all negatively using this Ams Oil that was given to me? Just to use it up? I would hate for it to go to waste. Obviously I will not mix it with the Honda oil, but would run the Ams Oil for one oil change then go back to using my typical Honda recommended oil (See attached photos) Thanks
  15. just bought a yz250f 2007 with low hours. my 2015 DR650SE really likes Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic, and there I plenty of discussion on DR forums about that brand. However, I find nothing about using it in the YZF. I'm planning it's first oil change (with me) this weekend - anyone using the Rotella T6??
  16. Hello everyone, i read some post on this but I have another question... i made an oil replace service on my 10' 400 exc. from the engine I Got black oil guessing less then 0.6L. (I used to add 30-60ml every 4-5 rides). from the transmission I got more then 0.9L and it was clearer than the engine. on the service before my mechanic suggested that oil is transferred to the trans side. Offered to solve this without taking apart the engaine,and replace some oil seal or something like that from the "other" side... on other post i saw the treatment for this is to change the oil pump and gear staff. so, my q is which way would you go? 1. Go back to the mechanic and hope for good..sometime his solution is fishy? 2. Do the oil pump replacement parts ( on the net i don't see the difference in the parts number). 3. Open the cylinder to see the piston/rings condition... maybe it's just eats oil.... thanks a head.
  17. I just bought a 2005 Honda crf250 and I replaced the motor oil but the old motor oil had really small dirt/grit looking stuff in it, it wasn’t magnetic or anything nor did it look like copper. I’m thinking it’s clutch but I’m not sure, I’m not sure what it is so I really need help you can kinda see in the second photo what I’m talking about. the clutch lever was setup really weird where the person riding before me definitely burnt some plates PLEASE HELP
  18. Hi guys, I’ve got a 2005 kxf250 here and Im concerned about how oil is fed from the bottom end to the top end ... anyway I bought it blown up... I’ve had to buy new bottom end casings, new cylinder head new valves all that lot.. but once it was put back together and oil was put in, I went to re time the bike and noticed there was no oil by the magneto hole, I took the side cover off to inspect whether oil was actually in this side casing where the conrod and big end bearings sit and there’s nothing? But normally oil is fed through the timing chain to the top end isn’t it? you can clearly see by the sight glass there is the right amount of oil inside there (not to mention I measured the amount of oil I put in anyway) I’m just wondering if there’s another oil top up point I’m struggling to find or is this just how the bike is? Because there is two oil drain hole plugs so it’s just a thought, any advice will be appreciated!!
  19. I’ve read the manual, it says warm the bike up for 3 minutes and then let it sit for 3 minutes and check to see if oil comes out from the check bolt. When the bikes been sitting for a while and hasn’t been running oil just drips out of the check bolt. I’ve heard that as long as it drips out when the bike is cold it should be fine. If I do what the manual says and warm the bike up for 3 minutes and let it cool down for 3 minutes no oil will come out of the check bolt. If I top it up until it comes out as the manual says when I let the bike sit overnight the oil will come out of the bolt real fast. Does this mean it’s too full? If someone knows anything about this or have a similar bike let me know. Thanks :)
  20. Hi all, I am new to the forums so I didn't read any forum rules yet, but I have a really urgent question. Today I picked up my new CRF110 2019/2020 (Not sure if it is 2019 of 2020, but that will be another post), originally Honda always puts break-in oil in the engine to run with for the first hour, hour-and-a-half. It was build up at the dealer I bought it from, it just came out of crate 20 minutes before I arrived, because it was special ordered for me. We both were in the assumption that there would be (enough) oil in the engine and they had it run for about 10 minutes, I have had it run for about 10 minutes and did some riding with it on the streets, low speed and just going through the gears when I felt that shifting was not going smoothly. So about 30-40 minutes run time, we went to check the oil level and there was no oil on the dipstick. We added about 350-450ml of oil before we saw some oil on the dipstick. Is this normal in a new CRF110? Less oil of course means less oil to slush around and less load on the engine, 600-650ml could be enough just for break in, but I want to make sure this is not an issue. Thanks in advance!
  21. I am going to replace the fork seals on some 05' CRF 450R forks and have 2 different viscosity oils. Since the damper assembly takes X amount of fluid and the fork tubes take X amount of fluid, one quart won't be enough. Since I have heard or observed the oil in the fork tubes is simply for lubrication and not alot more, would it be safe to run the 7w in the fork tubes and the 5w in the damper? Or should I run 7w in the damper and 5w in the tubes, I know manual calls for 5w HP which appears to be 17 @ 40 so the 5w Bel Ray is about spot on. I am not launching off any major sweet jumps like Pedro and Napoleon(more than likely little stuff, maybe some smaller doubles but mostly trail riding) Also some supermoto stuff running another set of wheels and street tires. I am about 150 and have been known to hit 160lbs when I really let myself go. I have 2 sealed quarts of oil. Bel Ray high performance fork oil, 5w(17.1 @ 40) - 1 quart of this. Bel Ray high performance fork oil, 7w(29 @ 40) - 1 quart of this I also have 2 sealed quarts of 15w Bel-Ray, but its older than 5 years and will have to be tossed out more than likely. I know I could also run some 0-20w motor oil in the outer fork tubes if I wanted to. Was more curious of any advantages or disadvantages on where I should put the 7w, I am thinking with my riding style, surfaces and weight probably the 5w in the damper is what I should run and the 7w in the fork tubes. Thanks!
  22. I was going to change the oil on my dirt bike and i was going to use Rotella T Triple protection but the only one I could find was Rotella t4 15-40w. I think its the same thing but I just wanted to make sure. Can anyone confirm this?
  23. I have noticed an oil leak on my 2009 DRZ400. Please bare with me as I'm new to this. Ive traced the oil to what I can see is the highest point where the trail begins but don't know what the part is or linked to. Has anyone had this problem? know what part the pipe leads to, or know if its a possible cracked pipe? Thanks, Jake.
  24. I wanted to share my experience for all to enjoy, ever since owning this bike a year ago, i've thoroughly enjoyed learning thru this platform bare with this story, and let me know your thoughts, honestly 2003 DRZ400S 20k miles with suspected coolant leak that i was trying to ignore After riding 2000miles and a few oil changes, i noticed stalling when running hot and coming back to idle Figured i'd clean the carb Pulled the carb, couple screws were stripped already (ordered a rebuild kit and sprayed it out with carb clean [ through drain plug and all over, letting it soak upside down, 3 times and brown stuff was flowing out]) When i put it back together, i primed it and left the prime on for a bit after it started up Heard it backfire (i think just once) It wouldn't hold idle for longer than 30 sec, blowing a little gray smoke (was thinkin it was just burnin off some junk) I messed with the fuel screw/idle screw (yes have the screw upgrade) Got it idling then the IDIOT LIGHT (coolant temp) lit up Started blowing more smoke, this time sweet and whitish Checked coolant and level and was low Next day i got more coolant in and started it up Cranked easy, after a little it would blow white sweet smoke again Noticed: -coolant leak coming out of coolant hose seal connecting to front of head -found fuel in the oil when draining fluid -also looked like oil/gas was in coolant when draining From my research (thanks team) i figured at minimum have a head gasket issue I ordered, rubber valve seals, engine gasket kit, rings.... Now i finally got to taking off the head cover today (crankcase bolt was stripped so i got to TDC by dropping it into 5th and turning the wheel before removing spark plug...) I haven't gotten deeper than that due to running outta daylight but noticed that the Exhaust Cam Cover looks way dirtier (with oil all around it) than the Intake Cam Cover I'm assuming its oil that has been burning off around the cover, what should i expect now? Feeling like i may be a bit underwater with this one but i wanna keep charging. i love my drz I'll post a pic tomorrow when i have more light THanks for reading through this case, time to get a beer, CHEERS!!!!!!!!
  25. Hi guys recently did an transmission oil change on my bike after i finished it i started it up on the stand then put it into 1st after spinning for 5 second there was a bang and continued on spinning like nothing happened. i turned of the bike and put it in neutral and was Rowling it backwards and all the sudden the same bang sound happened again. after this i tried changing gear with the bike not running and i could only put it in first if i went from neutral straight to second then it would click down to first. the bike also rolls fine in neutral but when put into gear the clutch would not fully engaged and i would have to push harder then normal to get it to roll wen in gear. if anyone has any ideas what it could be please let me know.
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