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  1. Tabitha Jennings


    I rode m RMZ 450 today for about 45 minutes and was getting ready to put up and let idle for about 10 minutes and it started overheating, any idea why?
  2. Hey there, there are a few problems I’m having with my beta, I’m hoping they pertain to carb issues, but they may not. The problems are: The bike when revved up comes down to idle very slowly & bounces its way down It gets hot (I’m 225 LBS, mainly trail riding and it has overheated a few times) Excessive smoking ( this may just be a beta thing with the oil injection) Here is a video smoking and weird running condition & below that is a history of what it’s done and some steps I’ve taken to correct it. Float position: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pigvQYgRwfx7Cdud6 Excessive smoke https://photos.app.goo.gl/DSVMnvPgVWerhbig8 Surging and not returning to idle: https://photos.app.goo.gl/z7X4tsiSeZdjurK99 https://photos.app.goo.gl/B8pNyKVhzz74f5Cc8 I purchased the bike new but it was a dealers show model and had been ridden quite a bit. I think the bike has about 57 hrs on it with the original piston. With the stock jetting it ran fine for a while, and then about 5 rides in, it started to kill when I wasn’t on the gas. Around that same time I noticed it starting to overheat. I bought a JD kit to help solve the problem. I put the appropriate jet in and started with the blue needle in the lowest setting as per the instructions. I ended up on the mid clip setting on the blue needle and that seemed to work the best with the fuel screw most of the way out, 3.5 turns. It still does the slow deceleration and surges on the way down. I have also: changed the head O-rings, using fresh, ethanol free gas, adjusted the carb float level, changed the plug a while ago, I can try that again though it’s been a while. I suspect it needs a richer pilot jet, because it sounds hot and acts hot, and most of my riding is below 1/3 throttle. The jet it currently has is the stock pilot jet. Any help would be surely appreciated.
  3. recently installed a full Yoshimura exhaust on my 2019 crf 450L and after a few rides I've noticed my air box has begun to melt and I have since had issues with the bike overheating. If there is an upgraded radiator and potentially a stronger air box anyone knows about or tips to avoid these problems it would be greatly appreciated
  4. Ok, I idolize, worship the new 2018 YZ450F (new for me because I bought it late in the year). Haven't had any starting issues or had to use the new starter plunger until the winter temperatures crept in. I keep it in an off and on heated garage, but in the morning it's cold, and would not start so easily anymore as it did in the summer, where I never before had to use the starter circuit. The F.S.M says to push the plunger all the way in, then hit the starter, and let the engine run/rev at 3000-5000rpm!!! for 1-2 minutes. Then, your supposed to operate the throttle, as the chop throttle direction is supposed to kick the plunger back out to its N.O.T. position. I did exactly this, but, when I operate the throttle, the throttle close direction DOESN'T kick the plunger back out. The engine was revving at about 3100rpm for only about 40 seconds, when, to my dismay, I looked down at the engine & exhaust pipe; the exhaust pipe exiting the cylinder port was glowing so hot I swear it was almost molten! Screaming inside my head, I quickly grabbed a pair of long slip joint pliers to pull the plunger back out (or else I'd no doubt brand myself on the glowing exhaust), and the motor rpm dropped to a more conventional warm/idle up speed. I then had to accelerate the water pump briefly, then cut the engine. I waited a few seconds, and started it up again, and varied the throttle slightly. I repeated this a few times in order to cycle the motor, and safely remove the heat conduction thru the cylinder head. My YZ450F runs great, post incident, and has more power than ever now. My only issue is now I have to always have a pair of pliers when cold starting the powerhouse, because the throttle and starter plunger still don't communicate. I DON'T let it run for more than like 15 seconds on fast idle anymore. My question is, WHY did the pipe heat up so much if that is how long it's recommended to fast idle, AND does anyone else have this issue with their starter plunger sticking, or had their pipe heat up orange hot? I went to the dealership to correspond with the mechanics there and no one was able to give me any information. Please, ONLY 2018+ YZ450F owners need reply on this thread, as it is a BRAND NEW starting device on a fuel injected engine for Yamaha, so other instances or experiences will not apply.
  5. Hey all, I recently purchased a 2007 Yz450. All seemed well at first, besides some deceleration popping. I took the bike out for the first time and after about 30 min it got very hot. When I took it back to the garage it dumped some coolant. I then noticed the aftermarket header (LEXX MXE) was bent and touching the cylinder and very close to a water hose directly above the water pump. I adjusted the fuel/air screw to richen up the mix as well as wrapped the header in exhaust wrap. I rode for another 30 min before the bike got quite hot again (still had a lot of deceleration popping). I put the bike on the stand, had some hanging revs in neutral and lost some more coolant. My question is does this sound like a lean fuel mix problem? Could a header bent in this fashion get the bike that hot? Once the bike cools down I am going to go run it and spray with ether to check for intake leaks. Disclaimer... I am competent enough to do just about anything to the bike there is a YouTube video for, but I am no mechanic. I could be way off the mark with this post and not realize it. Thanks for the help, Kev
  6. Here lately, probably the past month or so, my 2012 wr450 started running a lot hotter than usual. It happened right around the time I put some header wrap on my head pipe so I thought that was the issue and left it at that. Well I deliver for a company on my bike and its been warming up here in texas the past few weeks ~80's I decided to take the header wrap off because it felt unbearable riding with how hot this thing is now. So I take the wrap off and the bike still gets stupid hot stupid fast. Now when I say stupid hot I don't mean boiling but temps, but way higher than it used to in a shorter amount of time. Before this issue it could be 60 degrees or so outside and my trail tech fan would never kick on. Ever. The fan temp was set to trigger at 175. Now even when it is this cold out (60's) it can hit 175 in maybe a mile of easy riding. I ride on the street so it's constant air flow pretty much all of the time. The bike does have Engine Ice in it and it is full in the rad and appropriate amount in the reservoir. I started it this morning to see if the coolant was circulating with the cap off and the level would kind on bubble (probably not the right word for it) but it would kind of go up and down maybe a half inch or so every second or two. So I assume the pump is working as it should? Not sure but i've got a buddy who is bringing his stock water pump over and I am going to drain and clean my coolant system with white vinegar and water 50/50 to clean and flush all the junk, if there is any, out of the system and then try his pump setup. I checked my oil and it doesn't look milk shaked inside but I do plan on changing the oil tonight to see if there is anything going on in there which will tell me if impeller shaft seal is bad etc etc. Also, When it's in the garage and running my temps on my GYTR tuner says the engine temp is 150/160's when the trailtech fan kit is saying 180's but once the bike is off they seem to equalize out within 2 or so degrees from eachother. Not sure if that tells me anything but this is far all I know off the top of my head currently, If things change or I remember I will update the thread. The bike has 320 hrs on it probably 98% street riding as this is my daily driver. It is not losing coolant, leaking or burning. Valves are all in spec, checked last night (for the first time lmao) GYTR ECU and FMF powercore4 pipe Oil should be good but I am going to do it anyways tonight. Coolant getting flushed and cleaned along with a "new" water pump this evening aswell. If anyone has some tips or things to check for etc let me know. Thanks in advance!
  7. So I took my txc to the sand dunes for the first time and I made sure that my bike was ready, by that I mean antifreeze was checked, air filter cleaned and so on. But when I was riding there my bike was overheating in the first 20 minutes. The fan was working it's butt off and I could hear a swishing noise when I put my ear up to the radiator which I don't know if that is normal. Also my clutch wouldn't engage so I couldn't shift when I was riding but as soon as I stopped the bike died and the clutch would engage again. And my friends bike was doing just fine, his fan didn't even turn on and I want to know if anyone else with Husqvarna is having the same problems or even anyone with the same model?
  8. Has anyone installed and used a Checkpoint impeller? I see dirt rider had an article about them and I've been curious about them. I've been having overheating problems recently and after spending well over $200 on brand new radiators I've discovered the radiators weren't the problem. So I bought new piston rings since they were out of spec (supposed to be like .15 and they were .5) and then thought about buying one of these aluminum impellers to help the problem instead of keeping the flimsy plastic one. I've read mixed reviews about them. Has anyone had any luck with them or is it basically just paying for the same overheating problems to happen?
  9. I have a 2012 yz125 and I can ride hard enduro for along time without it overheating but when I go on a road (any gear) for about 4 minutes it starts to bog for about 5 seconds then dies like it ran out of gas. After it dies I have to wait 3 minutes for it to cool down before I can start it again. Any ideas what's wrong? I checked rad fluid and its full.
  10. Hey guys, I know a little bit about exhaust wraps and that they're supposed to help keep heat within the engine in colder weather, but with the XR650L being air cooled am I going to have an overheating issue if I wrap my pipes? I like the look of it since is reminiscent of mad max and rat bikes but I plan on making my bike into a cross country traveler and worry about excessive heat damaging components over long periods of medium to higher RPMs. Anyone have their pipes wrapped and ran into over heating issues or not had any problems at all? I'm also thinking of adding an oil cooler, but that's for another thread.
  11. Hi I know there has been alot of discussion on over heating crf250r's, but I have a bit of a stumper. My 250r started spewing radiator fluid out the overflow and was getting really hot, riding about 25 mph on open trails after about 5 min. After reading many posts on this site and others we figured a blown head gasket or warped head so we disassembled it, had the cylinder and head checked for warp at a machine shop, there was none, replaced both gaskets, and re-assembled. Bike starts up easy but gets too hot too fast. Our comparison is our 2004 crf250r running at the same time for comparison. I opened up the radiator cap and re-started, and noticed alot of air in the coolant in the 2006 that is overheating where there really isn't any in the 2004 for comparison. So, I believe exhaust air is getting into the coolant and heating / pressurizing it, but the gaskets were just replaced (OEM). I didn't notice any cracks in the head, and there is no coolant leaking from the radiator fins. Also swapped out the radiator cap with the 2004, didn't help. Any suggestions on what to check next?
  12. I recently replaced water pump and seal after I noticed that my '02 CRF450R was spilling coolant on easy trail rides. After the water pump swap (which was successful), I noticed the same problem. It's interesting - the bike only spits coolant (I mean a LOT of coolant) after passing anything above 1/2 throttle. The bike makes this weird 'gurgling' noise, like trying to suck through a straw when your glass is almost empty. This is weird because I properly bled/ burped the radiators with coolant, and filled them to normal operating levels. The coolant spills through overflow hose. anyways - I swapped the radiator because I thought maybe the bike was running hot. I purchased oversized radiators, bought a 1.6 radiator cap (with a temp gauge) and bought engine ice. The bike runs very very cool - the temp gauge allows me to see this. Still, the bike shoots coolant out of the overflow after going above half throttle, making the same weird gurgling noise when it does. Bike has all of its power, top end was replaced not too long ago. I'm lost and don't know what is wrong with the cooling system in my bike. How do I make the bike stop shooting out coolant, and stop making the weird gurgle noise??? Any advice would help me!!! Thank you!👍
  13. Hi all, I recently bought a YZ450F 2009 and also decided this would be a good opportunity for me to try and do the basic maintenance myself and learn about the bike during the process... we know where this is going don't we? Fast forward in time and it now overheats as soon as I start it. And I mean fuming hot a few seconds after starting it up!! Short videos of what I mean, right side view: https://imgur.com/a/5dkpC4v left side view: https://imgur.com/a/8nqKxLa Context: I bought the bike and it seemed to run OK although it was leaking coolant from the weeping hole so I thought of replacing the water pump seal and in the process decided to also replace the engine oil, oil filter and and coolant (oil was black and didn't know how long since the last coolant change from the previous owner). I left the right side of the bike (clutch cover + side case + water pump cover) open for a few days until I got the pieces and so we can assume the bike was almost dry of engine oil. After the pieces arrived and I put everything back together (or so I thought) I filled 1L of oil and poured coolant up to the radiator cap and tried to start the bike. After a few unsuccessful attempts I noticed the shift lever stuck in a down position (stuck in first gear). Back to the garage... I opened it again and the shift shaft was not connected to the right place. Apologies for the lack of proper names, like I said these are my first baby steps in the subject, but here's a picture that I hope will help understand what I am talking about. https://imgur.com/a/Vi4mCKX After fixing that and successfully starting the bike up I noticed the problem of overheating immediately, any liquid that was on the outside of the motor evaporated and was followed by smoke and noises... clearly not looking ok at all. Correct me if I am wrong in any of these but after reading a bit here and there it seems that my problem could come from: - Engine oil I in the bike is not enough. I added (as by the manual when changing the oil + filter) 1L but it's actual 1.2L if dry (which I think we can assume it was pretty dry) so I could try adding 0.2L. - Wrong engine oil used. This may sound silly but I am not sure myself whether it's the right one or not. Here's the one I used: https://www.motul.com/es/en/products/5100-4t-10w40--2 - By having had the shift shaft stuck outside of its place while moving the bike outside of the garage and trying to start it, it could have damaged something else. Something like the camshaft? My knowledge of it is zero but I have seen it popup a couple of times while searching for causes of overheating. Do you guys have any other ideas or how to figure out what the problem is? Please let me know, much appreciated! 🙂 Just FYI, there doesn't seem to be any leaking from anywhere, kicking the kickstarter rotates the water pump fine, I tried to start it up with the coolant cap off (attempt to remove air bubbles) but I can't have the engine run for more than a few seconds so that doesn't seem like something I can do right now.
  14. I'm trying to figure out why my CRF450r is overheating so bad, I don't know if I should get a higher pressure cap, a water pump rebuild kit, or what I'm stumped i have read so many forums and can't figure it out, I live in Florida and mainly trail ride.
  15. I read a lot about some people having problems with their TE 310 but I guess I thought "that surely will not happen to me, right?". Well I took my new/demo 2012 TE310 for its first real outing. We did some technical trail riding today and I started having problems after the bike heated up. First, the electric starter just quit working, not sure if it is a problem with the starter or with the battery (supposed to have a new battery in it when I bought it). When I would turn the key on you could hear the pump still kick on even though the electric start would not work. Then sometimes when I would kick it over it had a weird feel to it, like when I kicked it over the starting was trying to turn as well. The bike would not start, but if it caught at all it would backfire very loud. Then I could kick it over and would usually start. After I rode for about another 45 minutes I noticed the bike did not want to idle. I had to really stay on the gas and the clutch to keep riding. Engine seemed really hot and the cooling fan never turned on. Bike then did not want to stay running, if I slowed down it would not idle and would shut off. When it was still hot I would try to kick it over, I could get it to start but would not stay running and sometimes would backfire (again loud) not start. Do not know what to tell the dealer, what to look for, and what I might try. Dealer is a long way away, very disappointed and frustrated. Any help and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
  16. I have a 2008 KTM EXC that had an aftermarket radiator fan installed by the previous owner and worked fine up until some heavy trail riding a while back. Im pretty bad with electrical stuff and havnt even owned a bike with an electric start until now. Ive heard having a fan on these is pretty much a necessity so Im trying to get it working. Ive heard I can test if the fan will work by touching two wires together but I dont know which ones. Also how can I check to see if its a fuse or something else? Thanks!
  17. Okay so I just bought a 2008 kx250f, I've only rode it 3 times since I've gotten it and not on trails or anything just around the block to see how it runs, every time I've ran it, it overheats and I'll only be riding for about 10-15 mins (in about 70-80 degree weather) and the coolant is already boiling coming out of the overflow tube. After the first ride I flushed the old coolant and put engine ice rode it again still same thing. Today I took a look at the water pump and tried to turn the impeller I couldn't with my own strength I'm not sure if that's how it's supposed to be or it's supposed to turn freely. if you have any ideas on what could be causing it, it'd be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  18. Hi there first time poster, My, new to me, 2009 CRF230L has 900 miles on it. The original owner put 200 miles on it during his ten years of ownership, so it sat for a while. Upon purchasing I bled the brakes, changed the oil/battery, replaced the air filter, replaced the petcock, and inspected the jets to insure they were not clogged. The mixture screw is set about 2.5 turns out. I currently have 15/39 gearing on it for road use. The bike starts perfectly every time, idles nicely and generally runs very well. However, the bike will not exceed 60 mph in sixth gear (tried with 13t and 14t sprocket too). Additionally, if run at high speed for a while (hour or so) the bike seems to overheat. Last ride it completely shut off while doing 50mph so I coasted in to a parking lot and let it cool down before it started back up. When purchased, the bike wouldn’t exceed 45mph or so but then I turned the mixture screw out and it increased the top speed/overall performance. I love the bike, I just know I’m not getting it’s full performance for some reason I can’t determine. Thanks for the help!
  19. I was sitting in class daydreaming about my bike when it occurred to me; Why haven't I seen more people running two radiator fans for hard enduro? I mean it's a bit overkill and might take away from learning to be a more efficient rider but there have to be people out there who do it? I might be mistaken. Is it for electrical reasons, or is it just not necessary? Just a thought...
  20. So I have a 2005 400 S that has full yoshi header and exhaust, big bore kit, rad guards, JD jet kit blue needle 3rd clip from top, and the problem Im having is the bike is over heating in tight trails. My fan works as it should and fluid has been changed and refilled making sure all no air pockets are in rads or lines. The one big issue I'm having is when it does get hot and fluid goes into expansion tank as its supposed to but it is not returning to radiator once cooled and with this happening I end up low on fluid in radiator which causes it to over heat faster. When the radiator is completely full it does ok but if slow enough it will eventually over heat. I have done a pressure test on lines and system and everything seems to be fine with no leaks, I have also replaces radiator cap so at this point I'm reaching out because I'm lost? Any recommendations on adding sec fan? Why won't it return fluid if my system is holding pressure?
  21. Just did a fresh build on the eng in my kx250 new crank and complete bearing set, bought a complete jug from someone that did a big boar kit when the bike was new, and new seal kit, it looks like the fluid that is flowing in the radiator is full of bubbles i switched to water and purple ice by royal purple an it didnt cool it down but it still looks frothy as it pumps by the cap, and in the exhaust port there was a few water drops on far right exhaust valve and the side of piston was milky looking, here is a pic threw the exhaust port. any one have any ideas one were i should start? i even put new oversize radiators on but still gets hot and starts running real sporadic high smooth idol with no ting so i shut it down. any help would be great!
  22. I'm caught between a rock and a hard place. My 2010 KTM 250 XC won't stop peeing coolant out of the overflow tube. I've used 3 different radiator caps (two of the oem 1.8 bar caps and one CV4 2.0 bar) and it still continues to pee coolant as soon as the bike starts up. I just recently bought and installed brand new radiators [GPI on eBay for $88 (the seem fine just the welds are a bit crappy and you can see inside of the tubes where the metal from the welds drooped down but there are no blocks)] and silicone hoses (profactory hoses) thinking they were the problem since the old radiators were bent in like bananas. To my dismay that was apparently not the issue. I've had everything apart and looked at. Has brand new base gaskets, head gaskets, radiators, and radiator hoses. I've bled the radiators like the manual says and there are no bubbles like air leaking into the system or being in the system. The jetting is also perfect. The only thing I haven't changed out is the oem impeller in the water pump but it looks to be in great condition. Any ideas on how I can fix this problem before it gets worse? Also, has anyone else had this problem and figured out how to fix it? I ride it in mostly tight 0-10 mph trails and also some 10-20 mph trails.
  23. Hey guys. First time posting but always use the great nfo on the this page. I crashed my drz about 2 years ago and I didn't notice any physical damage except a bent handlebar and some scratches. Didn't ride it again as I moved countries for 2 years. Just got back and wanted to get it started again. Did an oil change, changed handle bars, changed the battery, got most of the old fuel out (I think) and refueled it. Started it up no problem with the choke and it sounded fine. However it would stall if i took the choke off or tried to use the throttle. So i let it warm up for a bit. Come back to the bike and it's shooting out coolant and steam from the bottom hose of the bike. Changed the coolant thinking it may be old coolant. Now I'm scared to let it run for a while to see if it will overheat again. Still the same problem with the choke and throttle. Anyone have an idea of the problem? Cheers
  24. Hey guys, I was hoping some of you could help me out. Recently my bike (2010 KTM 250 XC) started overheating a lot. As soon as it got up to temperature it would start peeing coolant out of the overflow tube. I changed out the stock 1.8 radiator cap for a CV4 2.0 radiator cap. Still continued to pee it out. I went through and checked the head and cylinder to see if they were warped. They are not and I also changed the base gaskets and head gaskets. Still continued to pee out. I bought and swapped out new over-sized radiators, new silicone hoses, and a new billet aluminum water pump impeller. Flushed the system and filled it with Engine Ice antifreeze at about 1/4" above the fins. It still continues to pee out. I've heard different things about how the reeds could be causing it and also my jetting could. My jetting is set up perfectly for my weather and where I ride, and my reeds looked fine on inspection. The only thing I have not checked is my clutch pack. It has some chatter and when the bike is cold it shifts pretty hardly into first gear on the first initial take off. In fact it shifts so hard it lurches forward and wants to die and I have to give it a little throttle or it will. (Also, if the bike is in gear on the trail and I pull in the clutch and try to hit the e-start the clutch doesn't engage until I give it a little throttle). I run what the manual recommends for oil (Motorex 15w-50) and at the right amount. I also changed it about 2 hours ago. Since that is the only part of this bike I haven't really looked at I was just wondering since all of that other stuff didn't seem to work, could my clutch be causing the overheating issue?
  25. Picked up a 1984 XL350R in nice condition and I'm currently rebuilding the engine. Of course it had the classic overheating problems and lack of oil to the left side of the valve train. I keep reading about "make sure you add an oil cooler to your XR/XL350" posts, but nobody ever tells you how they did it or posts any pictures! I'm guessing the oil filter cap/cover needs modified by drilling and tapping then blocking off the original connection port between the pump side and filter side. Can anybody shed some light or info??
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