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Found 10 results

  1. I just bought a 2008 WR250FX a while back and am getting it street legalized soon. I would really like to paint my rims either black (to go with my blue spoke covers) or blue. I would like to do this at home as I do not have enough money for aftermarket rims. I have looked into powdercoating, anodizing, and dual/single stage automotive paint so far. (Powdercoating looks like it might chip during tire change and there is not a local spot for anodizing and it looks expensive) Does anyone have any suggested methods or ideas for painting them at home? Do not tell me spray paint! Also please do not talk me out of it because I'm hard set on NOT buying new rims! Also we have a very capable, controlled, and large work space so any challenges shouldn't be an issue. Give me your thoughts please! Kind of stuck!
  2. Just want to pass along some paint information, in case someone wants to restore a CRF80 to its original glory. Frame: ColorRite Single Stage 2966OR - Honda NH146M Accurate Silver (about $20 online, not exactly cheap). It says it doesn't need a clear coat, but the actual finish was more satin than gloss, so I ended up giving it a clear coat with RustOleum 2X Ultra Cover Gloss Clear (about $5 at Home Depot). Engine Covers: they don't have to match anything else, but I found a reasonably close color in the Dupli-Color Perfect Match - Honda NH79M Arctic Silver Met (about $8 at Pep Boys). I did not use a clear coat on them, they look fine. Forks / Swingarm: you can use any of the two above, I ended up with Rust-Oleum Metallic - 7271 Silver Metallic (about $5 at Home Depot). It's a bit too... metallic, but I wanted forks and swingarm to be different from the frame, and I actually like the way they came out. Exhaust: Rust-Oleum High Heat 2000F Matte Black (about $5 at Home Depot). As always, preparation is key: power-wash everything, then use 220-400 grit sandpaper to get a smooth surface. I gave all parts a light coat of Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer 2081 Light Gray (about $5 from Home Depot), which turned out being the perfect base for those silver colors. For the forks, I removed the front wheel and lifted up the rubber boots, but I painted them without removing them from the bike. For the engine covers, I took them off as I also wanted to check things out inside (stator, clutch, etc), but you can paint them in-place by simply removing the bolts and masking everything carefully. If you end up removing them from the engine, you will need new gaskets (about $18 total from Rocky Mountain) as they stick to the covers/engine and break. Swingarm and suspension linkages were removed from the bike. For the frame, I only painted the bottom half, so I removed the engine and airbox but not the front end (forks, triple clams, wheel) nor the electrical stuff (wiring harness, CDI box, etc). I also put a new rear tire (see: https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1260197-crf80-rear-tire-question/), new handlebar and new levers (see https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1260498-crf80-brake-and-clutch-complete-levers/).
  3. I am currently restoring a 1975 Honda XR75, and I have gotten to the point where I need to look at redoing the cases, and cylinder aesthetically. The original XR75 had a painted engine judging from the pictures. I've researched it, and It was painted using a color called cloud silver. However, in almost every forum I have looked at, they say to under no circumstances, paint an engine (cases, cylinder, head, etc). Is painting possible? I am shooting for the original 1975 look, but if painting is not an option, what about polishing to chrome? I am familiar with polishing and have done it many times before, but on the XR the air cooled engine has lots of fins. How would one polish in between the fins to get a nice looking chrome cylinder? I have already sand blasted the outside of the cylinder, along with the head and crank cases. I have also attached a file of the original XR75 engine, which is the look I'm going for.
  4. I just redone a frame on an 86 KDX 200. Also working on a Yamaha AT2 as well but I thought I would share a method that I think may be better than paint or powder coat. First I had my frame sandblasted. Then I got a rattle can of Eastwood interior frame rust encapsulator and coated frame inside and out. It came with an extension spray hose to get way up inside frame. I watched alot of Youtube vids about rust encapsulators before finally choosing Eastwood. Then I brushed on Eastwood exterior Platinum Rust Encapsulator. It looked surprisingly awesome for being brushed on and I was able to thoroughly cover any hard to get to spots with a small brush that would have been a chore if only spraying. I was planning next to prime, paint and clearcoat but then got to thinking. It would be much easier to sand any future chips or scrapes and dab on more rust encapsulator with a brush, sand and clearcoat. Easy frame maintenance! So instead of painting I sprayed on Duplicolor high heat 500 degree engine enamel clearcoat. I chose the Duplicolor instead of VHT cause no special curing process was required. Rustoleum makes one as well that requires no special curing process. Another note the Eastwood exterior Platinum Rust Encapsulator can serve as the top coat or can be top coated. I chose to topcoat for extra heat protection as alone it says 350 degrees which is probably enough but I tend to overkill. The frame looks great. Just thought I would share.
  5. Im looking to paint my stock DRZsm400 chain guide, and Yoshi RS2 Exhaust cover black and possibly kickstand. I believe the yoshi cover is made of some sort of steal as i was able to clean the previous owners paint job off with a bench grinder brush and polish it up, and I believe the chain guide is made of aluminum or something else similar and light. After A black base coat (Doesnt need to be glossy, but i want to match the look of black plastics as much as possible) , i would like to accentuate the yoshi lettering on the exhaust and windows on the chain guide with a thin layer or "stroke" of red. I have almost no experience with painting things but they are small so I think it should be relatively simple. I need the paint job to stand up to 85% road driving and 15% backroad/fireroad/light trail riding. Questions: What would be my best option for the black base color, simple as rustoleum or is there powder coat in a can i can get that will be much more durable and aesthetically pleasing, is something as extreme as por15 or something similar a good idea? I plan on hand painting the red outlines, what type of paint will be durable enough to withstand heat and small debris? Is there a good clearcoat I can/should finish with to keep it from wear and tear? Price isnt really an issue just quality/experience/fun. Would I just be better off having a shop do it?
  6. I recently purchased a 1972 Honda XL250 as a project. I damaged a bit of the finish on the engine covers while using carb cleaner. No big deal, I'll just strip and paint them. Well, turns out they're made of magnesium, so it is kind of a big deal. Apparently there are complicated processes needed to finish and repaint magnesium in order to prevent corrosion and cracking. I don't pretend to know much about it, it's way out of my meague, but involves dow 7 or dow 9 chemicals. Not only are these chemicals hard to find, but I wouldn't know what to do with them if I did. I called around a bunch of places that have the capability to refinish magnesium and they don't do personal work, only for aircraft and military. So anyway, this is a huge pain in the ass. Does anyone have any suggestions on simple methods I can use to repaint these covers. I guess I don't mind if the finish wears off over a year and I have to redo it, but I definitely want to avoid any metal corrosion or "gassing" under the paint. I was ready to use a high heat primer, duplicor paint, then a high heat clear coat, but it seems like this might not be adequate. Any suggestions on how I can get this done? Thanks.
  7. I am planning on painting my excel rims on my 02 RM 125 black and would like to know the best place to purchase "Takasago Excel Rims" stickers to put over them after I have painted them. If anybody has any ideas please let me know.
  8. I’m in a pickle, I’m getting my plastics and tank repainted for my Suzuki GS250T, but my uncle who is painting the parts can’t do the pinstripes, so is it possible to take the pinstripes off the old plastics and reuse it. I can find them for the tank and the right side plastic tape set. It’s no longer available at the parts stores. Also does anyone know how accurate the paint color sensitive camera is that they use to find the paint color ?
  9. Whats up guys. I have taken apart my 2000 Drz400 (kickstart only model, same as E) down to the frame because I am going to paint the whole thing. While it is apart, is there anything I should specifically check? Im mainly talking about the engine. Before it was burning oil regularly and I did find some metal in my oil. I think the metal is from my clutch or neutral because my clutch wasnt fully engaging and I didnt realize it for a while. Now my neutral "feels small" if that makes since. Lol I felt dumb when I realized the clutch adjustment got loose, but what can you do. As always thanks y'all. TLDR - took bike apart to paint. Is there anything I should look for specifically? Mainly refering to engine. Was burning oil and flakes in oil, but could be from user messing up clutch.
  10. All, I've used Google and BING to try and search through TT posts on frame colors and I thought I had it nailed down. Ordered the Duplicolor Paint "Perfect Match" 176 and it was not the right color (silver and not dark grey metallic). So my question is does anyone have a source for the frame paint color? CMSNL says that the paint code is 50100-kcy-760-ZA and it is almost a dark grey/bluish metallic paint. I've looked at several different sites as well and they all say the paint color is discontinued. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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