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  1. 2007 drz400 Crank case filling with fuel. What to do or what parts do I need to get to fix.
  2. Bike was sitting for a winter before I bought it from my mom. She was the second owner. Was leaking fuel from around petcock, replaced it. Bike now wont idle unless choke is on. It also won't say up to speed upon riding. Took full carb apart and cleaned it. My dad is saying simple float kit for the carb, he says the float is getting stuck and it's dying for fuel. Someone else (the car mechanic that I work with that has worked on his own bike) says it sounds like a accelerator pump. Opinions?
  3. I just did the raptor petcock mod and had a quick question. Running an FCR39 what happens if one night I forget to turn it to the off position? Here is the petcock I bought. So far I really like it. /shop/Yamaha-FUEL-COCK-ASSY-1-5LP-24500-01-00-p1000322768.html Yamaha FUEL COCK ASSY 1 (5LP-24500-01-00) Thanks for the help.
  4. Note: While this article has a significant focus on vacuum petcocks, it also has some important information if you are considering changing out your OEM fuel tank or replacing your Petcock: see “Factors to consider” further on in the article. The biggest issue: The OEM petcock on the S and SM (and maybe the E in other parts of the world) uses engine vacuum to open and close the petcock valve and thus control the fuel flow from the tank. It has known failures whereby it fails to shut off fuel flow when the bike is off, which can flood the engine with fuel over time, filling the crankcase with fuel, and completely diluting the engine oil, etc. (bad outcome). Alternatively, it has failure modes where it will not allow fuel to flow in ON or RES. Background detail on the OEM petcock: The S and SM OEM petcock has three positions: ON, RES, and PRI. (See the "comparison" photo below) It has two hoses connected: one carries fuel from the petcock to the carb and one brings engine vacuum from the engine. In the ON and RES positions, fuel flows from the petcock to the carb only when the engine is running. Normally, there is sufficient fuel in the carb float bowl for the engine to start. The PRI position allows fuel to flow continuously, without vacuum, and is normally used to "prime" the carb float bowl after carb removal, as the float bowl would be dry, unable to start, and thus wouldn't create enough vacuum. Failure One: No fuel or inadequate fuel in ON and RES, runs fine in PRI: From the description of the valve function you just read you can probably figure this one out: either there is no vacuum getting to the valve to open it when the engine is running, or the petcock has failed internally and the vacuum is not opening the valve. You can test by pulling the vacuum line off at the nipple between the carb and the engine, and pulling the fuel line off at the carb. Apply slight vacuum to the vacuum line (if you are sucking…make sure you put the correct line to your lips…ha) and see if fuel flows. If so, then the vacuum port between the carb and the engine must be blocked. If not then replace the vacuum line with another line and repeat, to see if the hose is blocked (or cracked/split). If it still fails, then the petcock is not opening the valve with vacuum and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Failure TWO: Petcock fails to stop fuel flow when engine off and engine floods with fuel, diluting the engine oil: This petcock failure can occur in two ways: first, it can fail so that fuel always flows to the carb. This is initially not so bad, as the float in the carb float bowl floats up when the float bowl fills, and has a valve that closes against an o-ring when full, UNLESS it fails to close; then the float bowl overfills, fuel runs down the carb throat into the engine, leaks past the piston, and fills the engine oil sump. Second failure mode: the diaphragm in the OEM petcock can fail, which allows fuel to flow through the petcock and into the vacuum line, which runs directly to the carb throat on the engine side, and takes the shortcut to filling the engine with fuel again. Summary: The OEM vacuum petcock can be rebuilt, and many riders have never had an issue. It is super convenient to simply turn off the bike and walk away, without the need to remember the fuel shutoff. However, sufficient numbers of riders have experienced the "engine full of gas" failure to make replacing it with a manual petcock worth considering. Rebuild kits: I could not source one from Suzuki, but found two that look like they would work: Moose racing 0705-0352, and K&L kit 18-5038. The Manual Petcock option: A commonly installed solution is to install a manual petcock, which requires the operator to switch the fuel OFF every time they leave the bike. There are a number of useable manual petcocks, which by definition, are not vacuum operated. These petcocks have three positions: ON, RES, and OFF. (See the comparison photos below) There is no vacuum line connected to the petcock, and fuel always flows to the carb in ON or RES. The advantage of these petcocks is that their bases are identical to the OEM and thus mate easily with the tank. The disadvantage of putting a manual petcock on your S or SM, is that when bike falls over and stalls, fuel will continue to flow to your carb. Factors To Consider: Nothing is ever easy, there are a couple of things to consider when selecting a replacement petcock, AND WHEN REPLACING THE FUEL TANK with a different one (Stock to large plastic, or vice versa), besides quality of the product. A: Reserve quantity: The main fuel inlet in the tank is the one at the top of the brass standpipe on the petcock. When the fuel level drops below this point, the engine starves and you select reserve, which draws fuel from the other inlet at the very bottom of the tank. With any change of tank or petcock you will have to factor in/measure the impact on your reserve. Have another look at the comparison photo and you will note the very short standpipe on the ATV Raptor petcock: it has virtually NO reserve. I will discuss how to address this later in this article. B: Interference between petcock selection lever and tank lip: With the OEM tank (metal) there is a lip at the edge of the tank that hangs down. This lip can interfere with the movement of the selector lever to the straight up position, which is RES on most manual petcocks. The solution from Suzuki for the OEM petcock was to simply put a spacer between the petcock and the tank, and to design their petcock so that the selector is not required to be set pointing upwards. You have two basic ways to deal with this issue if you use a metal tank and wish to substitute the petcock: use the OEM spacer that came with the OEM petcock (see image below), and/or remove the tip of the selector lever so that it can be turned straight up without contacting the lip. This issue does not arise with plastic tanks. C Fuel line routing and interference with choke operation: replacement petcocks frequently have the fuel line nipple out the right side, instead of the bottom as on the OEM petcock. In addition, alternative fuel tanks frequently have the petcock physically located lower than when on the OEM steel tank. This can create two challenges: how to route the fuel line to the carb, and in some cases how to address problems with interference with the choke control. D: Vacuum line from Carb: If you install a manual petcock, you need to block the vacuum line from the carb. Either cut a small piece of the vacuum line and put a screw into it and push it on the vacuum nipple between the carb and the engine, or get a rubber cap and push this on. E: Mounting bolt length: depending on the tank and petcock and use/not use of spacer you will likely need to replace the mounting bolts with ones that are longer/shorter to avoid bottoming them out or not having enough threads engaged. Alternative Petcocks: There are quite a number of manual and vacuum petcocks on the market, and each has to be considered for the install challenges it may create. I will specifically discuss the OEM "E" petcock, the Raptor petcock, and the Pingle. Here are some comparison photos: note the orientation and location of the fuel outlets, and the length of the reserve standpipe. Note also that I have placed the Pringle petcock, with images, after this section. OPTION ONE: The Suzuki OEM petcock for the DRZ400 “E” in North America: The Suzuki OEM petcock for the DRZ400E appears to have the same reserve standpipe as the OEM petcock for the S or SM, and it is not vacuum operated, and might be the easiest/best solution as you would not have to alter the reserve standpipe to address the reserve quantity issue as you will with the Raptor. It does have the fuel line nipple out the bottom but is oriented to the right side, so that may present some challenges or advantages, depending on the tank/carb combo you are putting it on. Additionally, it may require the spacer or tab modification to get the selector lever to clear the lip on a stock steel tank. OPTION TWO: The ATV Raptor Petcock: How to adapt the Raptor for use: Once again, nothing is EVER easy: First, the Raptor fuel nipple is on the right side, and the OEM on the bottom, as in the "comparison" photo, so you will have to assess the fuel line routing and petcock position for interference with the choke. Note that the Clarke 3.9 tank and the Raptor petcock seem to fortuitously be made for each other....ha ha...the fuel outlet on the Raptor lines up perfectly with the fuel inlet to the carb so a short straight hose is all that is needed, AND the choke operates perfectly. See photo that follows. If you are considering the Raptor for an OEM Steel tank then you will have issues with the choke and fuel line. Eri Marquez has proposed a method to modify the Raptor petcock to solve this: Raptor Petcock and Steel Tank Mod Second Issue: The Raptor has a very tiny reserve. The Raptor petcock from Yamaha, which fits on the stock tank or on the plastic tank just fine however it is designed for use on ATV's, which have big flat tanks, rather than the upright tanks that we have on bikes. As a result, the Raptor petcock comes with a very short brass standpipe on the main intake. So, with the stock Raptor standpipe, you will have a very tiny amount of fuel remaining in the tank at that point, thus you will have virtually NO RESERVE. I have fixed this relatively easily, read on. To fix the reserve issue, I got some 7mm (no SAE equivalent size) brass tube at a model store, twisted the old reserve standpipe out (it is a press fit) , cut a 4.5 inch (11.5cm) length of the new tube, used a hacksaw to carefully make a slight kerf around the end of the replacement pipe to hold the lip of the OEM fuel filter on, rounded and emery clothed the end I was inserting into the petcock, froze the tube, and pushed it into the new Raptor petcock. This was superb, and resulted in a standpipe that is 4.1 inches (10.5 cm) above the flat mount face of the raptor petcock. It gives me a 1.5 Litre (0.4 US Gal) (30km/20mi) reserve on a Clarke 3.9 gal tank. (Note: tube is measured by outside diameter, pipe by inside diameter: you need exactly 7mm outside diameter to get this new tube to press fit into the petcock and seal and stay, thus the need for "tube" and not "pipe") By the way, the Clarke 3.9 US gal tank is an honest measure: the tank dispenses 14.7L (3.9US gal) of fuel to dry tank......but still has 1.7L (0.45 US Gal) of fuel in the right lobe. (tank actually holds 16.5L (4.4 US Gal) of fuel) If you lay the bike on the left side, pick up the front wheel and tip it to past level, this fuel crosses and is usable. So: with a 4.1inch (10.5cm) standpipe on the raptor petcock on the Clarke 3.9US Gal tank, you get 13.2L (3.5 US Gal) in the ON, 1.5L (0.4 US Gal) in RES, and a further 1.7L (0.45 US Gal)avail in the right lobe. The Pingel petcock option: Some folks have used the Pingel valve, which is a slightly higher cost, but apparently higher quality solution. Issues mentioned include: the valve must be assembled before mounting to the bottom of the tank on steel tanks as the tank lip does not allow for the manufacturers valve assembly instructions to be followed, and apparently the reserve standpipe is quite short, so the reserve fuel is very limited. 6191-AH61AV DRZ all years With a reserve Have fun!!
  5. I purchased a DRZ400S during the summer and had some fun riding it around the dirt planning on getting my license when I get back from college which brings me to the fact that I can't bring it with me or winter ride it. I will be winterizing it. I have done some research on here and elsewhere on the process and understand the basis. My only question is with the chance of faulty petcocks on these bikes (mine appears good as of now but wouldn't put it past it to go out in storage), is it ok to leave the fuel house off and wrapped in some electrical tape or something of the sort as well as the carburator's intake valve just to be safe?
  6. Just a heads-up alert about all those manually operated petcocks on eBay and the web. Look for the only 1 or 2 out there with the outlet tube or nipple vertical downward and below it. All other 100 models on ebay have the outlet tube pointing right at the choke pull lever. This forces a tight turn which on some fuel hoses will shut the hose and reduce fuel by 80%. Also when removing and installing the tank the hose must first be removed, or its a struggle to get it past the choke pull knob. The knob could be damaged or rod bent. Attaching the hose on the petcock after the tank is in place is tough because of the sharp downward angle needed. Here are a couple of images. I tried 2 different hoses. The light color hose was a high pressure air-compressor hose, it went flat. The black hose is a 1/4" fuel injection hose and it did better. I ended up routing it in a circle forward then back to the carb. Im going to buy a new petcock with the downward tube next.
  7. So I'm pretty new to carb bikes, I used to have a CBR-600rr and decided I wanted a supermoto. I have read the repetitive topics concerning leaving your bike on prime but no answer as to why my bike is ok, everyone seems to have problems. One day I was in the trails and my bike tipped over and wouldn't start, so I set the pet cock to prime and it started fine and I rode/left it sitting like that for 3 weeks because I went to Florida. When I came back I shit myself when I noticed I left it on prime, the bike wouldn't start but was cranking. Eventually I killed the battery trying different choke settings and decided to try to push start it and it started right up. It wasn't idling high like the choke setting was set to but after riding it around for the day it was fine. I let it cool and it started fine. Why does my bike seem ok after what is supposed to be a horrible mess up? Does anyone know the science behind why it wouldn't start at all choked but started fine when I pushed it?
  8. So I have a 2007 DRZ with a vacuum petcock. Many people want to change this to a manual petcock - this is not cheap in the UK. This is a quick and easy way to convert the vacuum petcock into a manual one. First some background that might save others wasted time: I looked for suitable alternatives, and bought an aftermarket Yamaha RAPTOR which seemed to get a lot of positive write ups. But there are lots of issues with it! The diameter of the fuel outflow pipe is only 6mm on the Yamaha petcock (8mm on the old and the fuel intake into the Carb). Fuel pipes can only one internal diameter so this will immediately require an awkward mod! The length of the ‘ON’ fuel intake pipe is about half that of the original – so when you have to switch to reserve, you will have very little time to find fuel! The fuel outflow from the replacement Petcock is sideways and towards the Carb (where there is no space) as opposed to down (like the original) where there is plenty of space. (apparently if you have an oversize plastic fuel tank this is not a problem – but if you have an original metal one then it is). The quality is not as robust as the original Suzuki Here are the two side by side: So I looked for low cost alternatives, and could not see any….. so I took the vacuum petcock apart to see if it could be easily converted into a manual petcock. And weirdly it is really easy. Instructions for conversion: 1. You want to permanently close the vacuum valve. You can achieve this is various ways (you will need to seal the pipe coming out of the carb and the pipe going into the petcock). This was already done on my bike – the pipes were cut, and bolts glued in in order to seal them. NOTE: If you are happy with sealing the tubes then you will NOT need to unscrew the 5 screws that give access to the vacuum valve (the OPTIONAL step below) I chose to go one step further in the Petcock, and removed the light spring that keeps the vacuum valve closed and used some spare rubber (folded old innertube wrapped in tape) to create a plug the pressed the valve closed with more certainty. This was easy and took a few minutes. 2. You need to allow the switch to create alternate paths for fuel flow: Take the 2 screws out from the front of the switch, and take it off. The plate that has FUEL/ON/RES/PRI stamped on it, has a little lug at the top of the inner circle. You need to file that off, then put it back together. In the picture to the left, you can see what looks like a face. This is what you have achieved: The left eye socket- the main fuel comes down the pipe from above. It can then flow either towards the front or towards the rear. You have blocked the rear by disabling the vacuum valve (lighter colour silver in the photo). So this is now your Main fuel source ("ON"). The right eye socket is your reserve fuel source ("RES"). The only way to send fuel to your carb is to connect one of the eyes to the mouth. (You can see the left hand side of the mouth has a path that allows flow to the Carb - this was used for priming it before. Depending on which eye you create a path to, will affect if you are running ON or on RES). NOTE: The labels around the tap are now all misleading! see below. 3. The switch can now create different paths for the fuel to flow along. When it is pointing: UP fuel is ON (You are connecting the left eye to the mouth), DOWN and it is RES (You are connecting the right eye to the mouth) Pointing RIGHT it is OFF (there is no open path between either eye and the mouth). I have just put it all back together and tested it, and it all works exactly as described above, so this seems a very simple way to convert a petcock and appears to work fine.
  9. TLDR: does the video below show a faulty petcock, and if so what’s the best approach to solve? Howdy, I’ve been reading on petcock leakage but have a bit of a spinning head now. I have a Clarke 3.9l tank with the stock petcock installed and a stock carb on a 2006 ‘S’. When the bike is off I’m seeing leakage where the fuel line connects to the petcock, after removing the line the fuel looks to be coming only from where it should: the line coming out of the petcock spigot. It doesn’t seem to be leaking from a surrounding areas although it is difficult to be 100% certain the way fuel creeps sideways. Here’s a video of the leak. (See below) I have been struggling with getting the bike going after a couple of years. Not being a bike guy l feel relatively accomplished having rebuilt and jetted the carb... she starts now but idles high, and this leak. What I don’t know is.... assuming this is not normal, does this drip drip drip while the petcock is ‘On’ and the bike off indicate there is fuel slowly draining out of the tank into the system, getting in and ruining the oil etc? I’m wondering if this is NOT an issue, and is possibly a result of a crappy fuel hose clamp... and that the fuel should be expected to drip out like that due to gravity. I don’t really understand the DRZ petcock... is the ‘vacuum’ to pull the fuel through created when the bike is on... and one should not expect any flow when the bike is off (no vacuum)? I’ve heard “go buy the Yamaha raptor petcock and be done with it”... and other saying ‘that’s generic advice, some folks have trouble with that petcock’. If the best advice is to buy a new petcock, is there one that suits the Clarke 3.9 tank? Or should I just rip out the stock one and rebuild it? Not sure how changing gaskets would stop the fuel from flowing directly out of the spigot on it’s own though... but again i don’t know what’s inside the petcock. Thanks for your patience with my basic (and oft repeated) question.
  10. Be easy on me guys, a week into owning a 2002 DRZ400S with not a huge amount of experience I just bought the clap trap of a 2002 DRZ and wanting to make some repairs and mods. It has the large after market large plastic tank, which I’m looking to replace with the OEM and replace plastics for looks.... I have the oem tank but it doesn’t have a petcoc So noticed the current plastic tank is leaking at the petcock. I just joined TT yesterday and after a quick search realized this is a common issue and went down the rabbit hole of Yamaha replacement or rebuild the OEM. I went took pictures today and I found this: it seems the old tank has a petcock without the vacuum hose. The guy that sold It to me reminded me alway turn the fuel off when I stop so that reinforces the current petcock is not OEM, so for costs, its cheaper to buy the Yamaha replacement for the oem tank as doesn’t seem to use the vacuum hose, rather than rebuild the OEM because it’s not there... So my question is: if I want to Reinstall the OEM tank what do I need in a new petcock? Will the Yamaha one work, as it seems it’s set up with out the vacuum tube? Do I need a riser piece for the OEM tank and Yamaha petcock? Besides fuel lines and clamps, (and $100 for a new oem one which I’m not doing) what do I need in a new petcock to reinstall the oem tank? Rooking here, so thanks for the help and advice. Thanks a lot guys and I look forward to learning a lot here!!
  11. Sorry about the repost, but I have redrafted this post after getting some additional information, and the forum does not allow editing of a post once it has been up for a short while. My intent is to consolidate the issue of the OEM vacuum operated petcock failure, and the Raptor or other petcock replacement options. I am doing this as this issue keeps coming up, and having this one reference will save a ton of typing. I will engage Eric to link this to the FAQ section. The issue: The OEM petcock uses engine vacuum to open and close the fuel flow from the tank. It has known failures whereby it fails to shut off fuel flow when the bike is off, which can flood the engine with fuel over time, filling the crankcase with fuel, and completely diluting the engine oil, etc. (bad outcome). Background detail on the OEM petcock: The OEM petcock has three positions: ON, RES, and PRI. (see the "comparison" photo below) It has two hoses connected: one carries fuel from the petcock to the carb and one brings engine vacuum from the throat of the carb, between the carb and the engine, to the petcock. In the ON and RES positions, the petcock blocks fuel flow to the carb unless engine vacuum is present (the engine is running). Normally, there is sufficient fuel in the carb float bowl for the engine to start and run, thus providing the vacuum for the petcock to turn on the fuel. The PRI position allows fuel to flow continuously, without vacuum, and is normally used to "prime" the carb float bowl after maintenance, as if the float bowl is dry the bike won't start, and thus won't create any vacuum. The petcock can fail in two ways: first, it can fail so that fuel always flows to the carb. This is initially not so bad, as the float in the carb float bowl floats up when the float bowl fills, and has a valve that closes when full....until it fails to close...then the float bowl overfills, fuel runs down the carb throat into the engine, leaks past the piston, and fills the engine. Second failure mode: the diaphragm in the OEM petcock can fail, which allows fuel to flow through the petcock and into the vacuum line, which runs directly to the carb throat on the engine side, and takes the shortcut to filling the engine with fuel again. The OEM petcock can be rebuilt, and many many riders have never had an issue. It is super convenient to simply turn off the bike and walk away, without the need to remember the fuel shutoff. However, sufficient numbers of riders have experienced the "engine full of gas" failure to make this something to consider. The solution: install a manual petcock, which requires the operator to switch the fuel off every time they leave the bike. There are a number of useable petcocks, including the OEM petcock for the DRZ400E, which are not vacuum operated. Many folks have substituted the Yamaha Raptor petcock. These petcocks are manual petcocks with three positions: ON, RES, and OFF. (see the comparison photo below) There is no vacuum line connected to the petcock, and fuel always flows to the carb in ON or RES. The advantage of these petcocks is that their bases are identical to the OEM, and thus they simply bolt on. When viewing the comparison photo, note the brass reserve standpipe length: the Raptor will be discussed further later, but has no useable reserve as this pipe is too short. Note that there are many "copies" of this petcock avail online, and they probably vary in quality; Pingle makes a petcock that will fit that is apparently of very high quality, for example. Note, if you install a manual petcock, you need to block the vacuum line from the carb. Either cut a small piece of the vacuum line and put a screw into it and push it on the vacuum nipple between the carb and the engine, or get a rubber cap and push this on. Note: nothing is EVER easy: there is a complication involved with any substitution: the fuel nipple for many substitutes is on the right side, and the OEM is on the bottom, see "comparison" photo below. There are a variety of challenges fitting petcocks so that you can easily route fuel to the carb, and can still operate the "choke". This is also made more complex if you are using an aftermarket fuel tank. I recommend researching this forum, and reading Erik Marquez's excellent FAQ publication on this. The Suzuki OEM petcock for the DRZ400 “E” The Suzuki OEM petcock for the DRZ400E appears to have the same reserve standpipe as the OEM petcock for the S or SM, and it is not vacuum operated, and might be the easiest/best solution. I have not installed it, but this really looks like it might be the easiest option to install a non-vacuum operated petcock on the DRZ400S or SM. It does have the fuel line nipple on the right side instead of the bottom. Bolt on, reroute the fuel line, and block the vacuum line near the carb. The Raptor Petcock Details: Note: once again, nothing is EVER easy: first, the Raptor fuel nipple is on the right side, and the OEM on the bottom, see "comparison" photo below. Note that the Clarke 3.9 tank and the Raptor petcock seem to fortuitously be made for each other....ha ha...the fuel outlet on the Raptor lines up perfectly with the fuel inlet to the carb so a short straight hose is all that is needed, AND the choke operates perfectly. (okay, sometimes some things are easy...) Second twizzle: Raptor petcock has no useable reserve without modification, keep reading! The Raptor petcock from Yamaha, which fits on the stock tank or on the plastic tank just fine.... is designed for use on ATV's, which have big flat tanks, rather than the upright tanks that we have on bikes. As a result, the raptor petcock comes with a very short brass standpipe on the main intake. (when the fuel level drops below the standpipe, you starve for fuel which is the indicator to select reserve) So, with the stock Raptor standpipe, you will have a very tiny amount of fuel remaining in the tank at that point, thus you will have virtually NO RESERVE. See the "comparison" photo below. I have fixed this relatively easily, read on. The spacer that you see in the OEM image below, between your petcock and the tank is not required...and further reduces the "reserve". To fix the reserve issue, I got some 7mm brass tube at a model store, twisted the old reserve standpipe out (it is a press fit) , cut a 4.5 inch length of the new tube, used a hacksaw to carefully make a slight kerf around the end of the replacement pipe to hold the lip of the OEM fuel filter on, rounded and emery clothed the end I was inserting into the petcock, froze the tube, and pushed it into the new raptor petcock. This was superb, and resulted in a standpipe that is 4.1 inches above the flat mount face of the raptor petcock. It gives me a 1.5 Litre (30km) reserve on a Clarke 3.9 gal tank. (Note: tube is measured by outside diameter, pipe by inside diameter: you need exactly 7mm outside diameter to get this new tube to press fit into the petcock and seal and stay, thus the need for "tube" and not "pipe") For the non-believer in this reserve issue, just install the Raptor as is, then you might want to put a clean line on the petcock and direct the fuel into a jerry can...then select "ON" and wait til fuel stops flowing. At that point, use a measuring cup or something and select "RES" and measure how much fuel you get. When that runs dry, try tipping the bike to the left side to get the fuel trapped in the right side to cross over, then select RES again and measure how much more fuel you get. This will tell you if you have a useable reserve, or if you need to modify the standpipe on your replacement petcock. By the way, the Clarke 3.9 US gal tank is an honest measure: the tank dispenses 14.7L (3.9US gal) of fuel to dry tank......but still has 1.7L of fuel in the right lobe. (tank actually holds 16.5L of fuel) If you lay the bike on the left side, pick up the front wheel and tip it to past level, this fuel crosses and is useable. So: with a 4inch standpipe on the raptor petcock on the Clarke 3.9US Gal tank, you get 13.2L in the ON, 1.5L in RES, and a further 1.7L avail in the right lobe. Between the reserve and the right lobe, even when I am flogging it like a rental, this gives me 70km once I go on reserve. Happy riding. Comparison Photo of the three PETCOCKS mentioned and photo of the OEM petcock to show the spacer.
  12. I left my petcock on, on my 08 ktm 250xc-w and won't be able to access it in storage for a week, should i be concerned/will it cause any problems. if so what should I look out for. I've heard these bikes have problems with the floats sticking so you should leave fuel on to keep lubed. but some say leaving a fuel on can be catastrophic so I just wanted to get some opinion from a two stroke dirt bike standpoint. any help is appreciated thanks!
  13. So I just got myself a nice 2020 DRZ400SM used and I swapped the OEM tank for an Acerbis 3.7 and a manual petcock (OEM was vacuum), but I don’t know how exactly to plug the vacuum port on the carburetor? The vacuum line splits into two lines (image 1): one going to the petcock and the other going to some component on the front (image 2). Any advice is appreciated!
  14. My 06 rmz 250 has a leaking fuel petcock. When i turn the fuel on, it starts leaking a lot. I dont know if it is leaking from where the petcock attaches to the tank or from behind the switch that turns fuel on or off because i saw 2 small philips screws that hold it on. What could be the problem?
  15. bought and installed a new petcock On/Off and Reserve (non-vacuum) one . I believe i have to plug the vacuum to the carb, not too sure where its located. does anyone have pictures ? new too riding 🙂
  16. Hi All, I was wondering if anyone knew which fuel petcock assemblies with reserve fit on the stock tank for a 2000 YZ 125? 2HR-24500-02-00 sound right? Ebay says 1989-2018 fitment. Sounds a little wide. Can anyone confirm?
  17. My 2001 rm125 petcock peaks fuel out of the face of the petcock. I tried fixing it by creating a metal spacer and outing that behind the gasket in the petcock to squish the gasket and seal better, but it made the leak worse. What can I do to fix this?
  18. So I’m reading these horror stories of the stock vacume operated petcocks failing and letting gas into the oil .... how many of you guys switched over and is it worth it to switch to manual ?
  19. Hey folks, for those of you with access to a 3d printer: Here is a stl of a shim you can place behind the rubber gasket inside of your beta fuel petcock to stop the fuel from leaking by when you switch it to the off position. I print them out of PLA which is resistant to gasoline & 2 cycle oil. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2415224 - beta petcock gasket shim. cheers -t
  20. So I yeah a petcock failure today. I know I am getting older but really? The bike is only 5 months old and 80 hours so gas doesn't sit much. I was trying to run my tank low to switch to a different 2t oil. I was riding solo and was was heading off the single track and back on the dirt road. Bike went to reserve as planned but then wouldn't start. Wore the battery and legs down trying to kick it. Lucky for me my wife was able to pick me up. Anyway, pulled the fuel line and fuel would come out with bike on side switched to on. Not a drop would come out on reserve. Could of been a real bad day. I am running California gas but should it be this corroded? Looks like an anode rod from a water heater. Most of our rides would not allow for a pickup so lesson learned. Not sure the lesson but... check your petcocks and make sure your fuel flows on reserve or just run it on reserve to be safe!
  21. What is the best option for a quality oversized tanks that fits with the least amount of mods for a 2013 SM with FCR39 that already has the high clearance choke. I plan to do the aftermarket petcock at the same time, any issues with fitment of the petcock and oversized tank? Thanks for the help.
  22. Hey Guys/Gals, Newbie here and currently have a bike project that I'm working on to keep me busy during the "lockdown". Anyhow, just wanted to know what ya'll done with the stock vacuum tube that comes from the Mikuni carb to the factory stock gas petcock after installing an upgraded Acerbis fuel tank that comes with its own petcock mechanism that has no vacuum tube insert port on it. I understand the vacuum is used for allowing fuel to flow from tank to carb. On the other hand, the Acerbis uses gravity it seems. What I would like to know if this vacuum port is crucial to the carb's performance/functionality or can it just be left d/c with the new fuel tank in place? Thanks in advance! Cheers!
  23. I've recently bought a 27000km 2007 DR-Z400SM. It's using the stock carb and the vacuum petcock and for peace of mind I'd like to pick up a manual one at some point. It's got the stock metal tank which I know the Raptor unit doesn't play nicely with as far as fuel line routing goes. Does anyone know how well an E model manual petcock fits on a stock SM? Is it a simple direct replacement? Thanks
  24. Is there a generic type of hose you can by to replace an old fuel hose? Was working on my carburetor on my 04 Drz400s and noticed the fuel hose is cracked. I want to replace it, but don’t want to pay more and wait longer to have an oem one shipped to me since it’s such a small and simple part. thanks!
  25. So I bought a 2005 DRZ400S that seem to run pretty good, only 10k on the odometer. I could tell that the bike was less than cared for, but it was still a steal. Had to rebuild the carb (it was horrid) replace a few other items, clean it up etc etc. The bike had a desert tank on it, so I found a like new OEM tank on ebay , since I wanted to Motard it and still have the large plastic tank for off road stuff. None the less, I removed the petcock (DRZ vacuum type) from the desert tank and ...GOOD GOD MAN! I cant believe that any fuel actually passed the valve. So my point here is, if you guys buy a bike that you suspect may have been a little neglected, check your petcock! A $15.00 rebuild kit and some cleaning resolved this..
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