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Found 33 results

  1. so I'm wondering about buying a 250cc 2 stroke I just turned 15 and weigh about 120lbs and am looking for a dirtbike coming off a Yamaha banshee. I will be mostly riding in the sand dunes but do go up and ride semi technical trails and desert riding. i've heard that a 125 will not have enough power for sand riding. would I be able to hold the bike up being around 5'9-5'10? what would y'all recommend I look for. (not at all considering a 4 stroke because of the costs of rebuilds)
  2. I have a 2001 rm125 Is my power valve activation rod supposed to have any play in it? I can move it about .5 cm until it’s tight against the power valve spring and actually moves the power valves. It looks like maybe I can just tighten the bolt shown that is on top of the spring.
  3. Buckle in this is a long one. Any advice is appreciated! I have a 2011 RMZ 250 that has done me very well for 4 years. Has been a very reliable bike with lots of power. Last year it started to act up a bit, slightly less power & became more difficult to start, especially cold (side note: it’s a Suzuki so it’s never started great cold but usually 3 or 4th kick was the case). Still ran okay though & fiddled with the fuel screw a bit which seemed to help with the starting/power issue for the rest of the season. This past winter we pulled it apart, put a brand new piston in, checked the valve clearances, moderate amount of carbon build up on the valves which we cleaned off, and put in a new spark plug which is also in spec. Bike still wouldn’t start great cold but was starting on about the 8-10th kick and power seemed to be improved although not 100%. I’ve take it for quite a few rides now and broken the new piston in and am having more issues: -won’t kick over cold at all but bump starts just fine -will kick over first or 2nd kick when warm but NOT when the bike starts to get even slightly hot -very little top end power. Bottom of the gears seem to be full power and the hotter the bike gets the less power I have in the top end -bike began to backfire quiet a bit when hot -won’t idle in gear when hot Any advice on what to replace/trouble shoot next? I had a buddy tell me it could be a worn out injector so that’s what I’m looking at replacing next. Thanks!
  4. I've been riding my 2002 400s with stock 15/44 gearing for a while now. Unfortunately I find myself having to do a lot more highway than I would like to, to get to where I want to ride the dirt. I'm building the bike into a light adventure bike and I don't ride any super technical trails (I don't want to completely lose that ability though) but I do like some so-cal mountain trails. I anticipate a lot more highway miles in the future in order to reach the trails I'd like to ride, also meaning I'll be adding a little weight, camping gear etc.( I am a 150lb rider) I saw a 43t rear sprocket available, would 15/43 make any noticeable difference in my highway rpms (65-75) and how much damage would it do to my abilities on the trail. I would also like to know the same for 15/41 and if anyone can let me know what changes in chain would need to be made. This will be my first time experimenting with a gearing change on any bike that I have owned. Bike has 3/3 mod done, stock exhaust and a JD Jet Kit.
  5. Hey All, I have a 2015 DRZ sm 400 2015: 3x3 air box with jetting 2 brothers pipe, NO header, NO FCR 39 CARB, NO CAMS, .........AND I HAVE A KNOBBIE TIRE 2nd gear wheelies are straightforward. I rev til I hit the pulling rpm range, Let off crack throttle, pull up a little bit on the bars and I'm slid back on the seat. 2nd Gear wheelies are becoming easy to get to and the balance point is there (foot on brake) 3rd gear: I can get rarely - I' not too experienced and I cant find the speed RPM and timing of suspension. I have to use suspension, push bike's suspension down and pull up while revving at the exact time and cuz i pushed down hard on suspension Im in a standing wheelie. I get this occasionally and I can get to the balance point. I dont know to clutch wheelie...So I'm already at a disadvantage QUESTION: In third gear, I CANT sit back on the seat rev the throttle and pull the bike up into third gear wheelie. Is my bike low on power. Its the only drz I've driven. maybe its my gear ratio. Maybe its pretty common for mostly stock drz400sm. At least partly its my technique. Maybe I need an FCR 39
  6. Hey guys, so me and my buddy went out riding the other day and we had a little race, his 2014 KX250F vs my 06 KX450. I thought I would have easily smoked him. To my surprise we were dead even :/. Now I am starting to believe something is definitely wrong with my bike. The piston is brand new, the valves were recently adjusted. However my carb has been in need of a good clean. Are these newer 250F's really that fast? Or is it possible something is wrong with my bike (Clutches, carb, valves)? He does have an FMF pipe on his bike and he is definitely lighter than me by a couple pounds at least. What so you guys think?
  7. let me start off by saying, that i am a long time reader, but have never posted until today. I HAVE SEARCHED EXTENSIVELY. all over. i have done multiple fixes and changes. but, here we go... I road race in a mini bike series. kx65's are ultra popular and competitive due to their cheapness, speed and weight. I have a kx65, my frineds have kx65's, everyone has kx65's! lol My kx65 however seems to have no top end power. I can run lap times close to 2 seconds faster on our endurance bike (which i dont own), and I can always really feel the top end pull on it. Both bikes are modded exactly the same. except one runs race gas, mine does not. I have ridden other peoples kx65's and their bikes also make more top end power than mine does. What its doing is it feels like the top end just flattens out and tapers off right when it should be at peak power. It doesnt bog, it doesnt stutter, it just flattens out and makes no power where there should be 2-4k rpms of more power band. MODS MADE TO BIKE -wiseco 46.5mm piston (72cc), GENUINE keihin pwk28 carb - 132-148 main tested. float level set to factory specs, 42 pilot is golden, clip set to third position, off idle is beautiful, mid is great and will power wheelie shifting from first to second. vforce 3 carbon reeds. moose intake spacer, dent free factory expansion chamber, brand new pro circuit pipe. -crank, piston, and main bearings have 10 hours on them. rings have maybe 1 hour on them, plug color with WOT plug chops in fourth are kinda ehhh, not dark, but not light, but i can never jet it to the point of it being brown on the main jet. i have as of today ordered a 130 main jet to try even leaner settings...color largely remains the same no matter what, power is flatter with richer jetting things ive done to try and recitfy this issue -new crank seals, split case and resealed it, new piston rings, performed leak down test, held pressure except for at the plugs on the leak down tester. confirmed with soapy water... jetted and jetted and jetted. confirmed timing position. 120psi of compression on brand new rings...maybe they just hadnt seated yet?, new dent free expansion chamber, new head gasket, pit free head, confirmed squish at .65mm at all four corners. squish is however tighter right at the edge due to head gasket being slightly smaller due to 72cc piston (everyone else i race with is like this too though), what else...checked coolant system, no leaks, holds water over the course of a race weekend. last year i ran a grom, it was a pig, i wanted to get results and lap times like i had on my buddies 65, so i got a used clapped out 65 and built it. so here we are...makes great bottom and mid power, falls flat on the top, doesnt bog, doesnt stutter, and my gearing is a little bit shorter than some peoples. i get plenty of drive off of other riders on the corner, but they catch, pass me on the striaghts. when trying to pass people, i suck up on them on the brakes and in turns, then they leave me on the straight. its been half a season of me not getting results and im getting heavily annoyed... am i simply running out of my powerband and its being exacerbated by slightly shorter gearing? is my clutch slipping and making it feel like it doesnt build anymore power, but the motor isnt really increasing in revs...is my stator or coil going bad? who knows. im sure its engine related... any more ideas or questions and i will immediately respond because i sit at a desk all day at work, and have pretty much unlimited internet access... long post is looooonnnnngggggggg my neighbors are beginning to get pissed at me for screaming around all the time doing plug chops...
  8. Does anybody know how much power the WR's brake light draws? Talking about the actual brake light, not just the running light.
  9. Im planning on adding some power to my 15 rmz250. The idea so far is High compression piston(not super high still want the option to run 91oct), and hot cams, and full exhaust, and getting it re-tuned on dyno. Im just wondering if anyone has had success making these motors faster how they did it.
  10. I have a 2018 KTM 250 SX and I have found my way to this forum because my ktm dealer is the only one in a two hour radius and does not know a lick about their own bikes. Also all of my family and friends have never had KTM's or Husky's. I race motocross and am in the Intermediate/B Class, I weight 185 pounds. So I was hoping I had some KTM gear heads on here to help me answer some questions. Warning: I am about to ask a lot of information so if some threads are already created just please point me to the link. 🙂 My main goal is kind of crazy in my mind... I need more longer wrap out time in 2nd gear but need 3rd gear to be snappy out of turns so I do not burn up my clutch. I ask this because a lot of the tracks I ride at in Missouri have pretty good size jumps right out of a sweeper or sharp turn. I dont like to hit them in 2nd right now because I get the Ronnie mac air boner affect in the air (because 2nd gear is very snappy and short). 1. Does anyone have any recommended adjustments for the RED power valve spring? (turns out/turns in?) Also what is the tool/socket I need to adjust, Robertson? What size? 2. Any recommended suspension settings other than the manual? 3. My manual says the bike has a Performance ignition map that can be plugged in? Is that correct or is that only for the EXC models? 4. What rear tire has everyone seemed to run on this bike, 120 or 110? 5. Hate the long silencer exhaust, Should I run the FMF Shorty or the ProCircuit Shorty? 6. What size rear sprocket seems to work best for motocross with this bike? 49? thanks for the much needed help!
  11. 2008 crf250r. Just installed new gaskets for top end and new rings. I also adjusted the valves since the exhaust side had tightened up. I cleaned the jets in the carb prior to the top end work (which took about 3 weeks) It is still as difficult to start as before and i have to give the throttle a slight twist when i crank for it to start up. It will not idle and feels like it's significantly slower. I didn't ride it much before the top end work so maybe I'm just used to my 450 but it seems like it's sluggish. It doesn't pop at all though so what could be causing this?
  12. Hi everyone, Really hoping for some advice on how other people have their 625 set up, and their experience with both the R&D Power Bowl 2 (or alternatives, though I feel the Boyensen Quickshots don't get the same reviews - and I'm not spending my money on gimmicks.) My specs - KTM 625 SMC 2007, 16,800 MILES. Titanium Akrapovic - twin slip on Stock header KTM airbox mod - steel cover with gauze 16-38 gearing (P/o had it 17-38) 188# main jet. This is it as far as I'm aware. So - it's a quick bike don't get me wrong, and I love the noise it makes, the torque and generally the character of the bike. But the 'light front wheel' everyone describes in 1,2,3 gears, I only experience in 1st. Short back story - I bought the bike and due to UK licence restrictions I had to put a carb disk into the inlet to restrict the power (by air flow). This meant the bike ran so damn rich it would bog at any more than 1/5 throttle. This didn't last long, I passed my test and took it out. My friend adjusted the fuel screw to make it a little leaner when the disk was in, and readjusted it when the disk came out, with the words 'its probably really rich how I've left it, but it's better than lean'. So I know my fuel economy isn't great, and the bike has good power, but this 188# main jet that's fitted sounds too rich. Most guys are saying between 170-182 and I'm planning to get it dynod and set up - I want it spot on. But I'm here to complain about the throttle response - the sharp wrench of the throttle seems to not have much power. I don't race this bike, and I don't take it to the track even, but I do want to get the best out of the carb. Second gear wheelies don't happen for me, let alone third. I don't really want to be trying to pull wheelies using techniques like clutch up, but the power wheelies you get, Only thing is - I just found out from the P/o that the bike hasn't had it's valve clearances checked since around 2500 of its 16,800 miles. I'm also concerned the spark plug is really due a change especially after all the rich running. So I need advice on the three solutions here - Servicing, analysis and re-jetting, and mods. I plan to take it for a proper service. I plan to get the carb cleaned and re-jetted (after dyno analysis), and I had been looking at the R&D powerbowl. However this is £180 ($250) and equals nearly the full cost of servicing and carb work. I hear some amazing reviews: 'tranforms the bike', 'how do people own bikes with FCR carbs and not own this' , 'how do people ride without this', and then I hear 'why do people turn to over-priced bolt on parts rather than a proper re-jet', and 'why do people refuse to rejet their bikes correctly, and use gimmicks instead'. But I'd rather not spend that money, as for example it equals a new set of tires down the road in summer when I've worn the current ones down. I've also got my eye on some tech7's, my current boots are &%$#@!ed. So what's the verdict? Will the carb rejet solve the issues, or only partially? If so, is there a cheaper alternative to the R&D Powerbowl that definitely does work? When I take it to the performance shop and run it on the dyno, will the mechanic need a JD jet kit to fully tune the carb? Or will a selection of jets suffice? And which ones? I appreciate any advice, I just want to get the bike running how it should, without throwing money at it. It just feels like it should accelerate with more urgency... After all that's why I have a supermoto!
  13. I made a quick video of how I run the power for accessories and such on all of my bikes. Thought it might help some others out too:
  14. My question is, what exactly is the difference between a Stage 1 exhaust cam and a stage 2 exhaust cam? My 2002 yz250f still has the original cam with a decompression lever and I’ve adjusted the valves, air filter, etc....and I still have a hell of a time starting the bike so I’ve decided on doing the “mod” of swapping out the old cam for a 03-09 auto decomp. exhaust cam, there aren’t a lot of used ones for sale on eBay, but a lot of stage 2 and stage 1 from various parts warehouses. I don’t want to jam myself up with a loss of power since the bike runs so f***ing good with the old cam already. Thanks in advance guys...
  15. I have an '86 CR500R with what appears to be a 2-piece split alternator winding. I'm evaluating the possibility of adding a small light to the existing system, or possibly modify the system to be able to. I need answers to the following questions: - What is the stock Power (Wattage) rating on each of these two coils? - Which coil is used for spark? Which is for the ignition module control power? - What is the operating voltage? Does it vary? Does the module have a built in voltage regulator? - Does anybody have a circuit diagram of the stock ignition module's internal circuitry? - How many wraps of wire are on these two windings?
  16. I’m currently at stock jetting on my 2003 yz250f. I’m rebuilding the top end with a 269cc big bore kit and installing an FMF power core 4 with megabomb exhaust. Current elevation is 700’ above sea level. Where should I start with my jetting? And where can I buy individual jets so that I don’t have to buy an entire assortment? Currently: 178 main 42 pilot needle is 4th Clip from top (stock)
  17. Greetings Thumper Talk community, I've been using a 2002 DRZ 400 S as my daily driver all winter long without any kind of problems. Starting last week I have found the battery being depleting enough to not turn the starter motor. Using a jumper box I was able to get it running. After having the battery tested and replaced I assumed the problem was solved. Unfortunately this does not seem to be the case as the problem persisted. Checking with a multimeter and with the key in the OFF position there was no significant amp draw. So I'm not thinking there is a parasitic ground. Checked the stater and rectifier both seem to be in working order and with the bike running I could measure the voltage of the battery slowly increasing. Starting with a full charge by tender and 2 days of sporadic riding the battery is now down to 11.6 volts.. when I attempt to start it at 11.6 volts the neutral light heavily dims, and the starter motor sluggishly engages then stops. Assuming the new battery isn't faulty I am thinking there might be some short that is opened when the starter motor is engaged. But honestly I've no idea. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Side question: what voltage is required for the starter to start the bike? It was at 11.6V with the key in the off position and could barely turn over.
  18. Hello, Has anyone ever rebuilt their EXC-F 450 (2016-2019) using SX-f 450 piston, head, ecu? on a part number check, even the main bearings and rod are the same but the piston and valves are different. I'm building my EXC for a six day long rally raid event so a road registered bike is a requirement. 6 speed is a massive positive (and can be built into an SX-F motor). But the power and delivery of the lower comp EXC motor compared to an SX-f is a little "boring" for big sand dunes (and I cant afford a Rally Replica ). I only expect to build it and run it for the 50hrs during the rally before swapping out the piston as per the SX-f Service schedule. I'm open to any other suggestions of piston/remap/ideas to make the EXC engine more lively
  19. So my 125 is bogging so much that is stalls when riding. It can be fine for a small amount of time, maybe half a lap but thats it, its fine when on the stand no bog at all. I took apart the top end today as I've read it could be the power valve, the bike has 4 laps on the new top end. The Z adjustment is out by 4mm, although it was perfect when rebuild was done. But the connecting rod won't move in order to adjust the Z measurement. I undone the screw the red arrow is pointing to and then moved the adjuster the blue arrow is pointing to but the rod does not move. Any advice?
  20. So i have a 2009 kx450f with efi and I'm trying to hook up lights and turn signals and all of that good stuff to make it street legal. I know I need to tap into the bikes power supply to power all of this but I don't know where that would be. Should I go through the cdi or the efi and if so where would that be.
  21. I own a 2016 YZ250FX. I love it. Great bike. I've done nothing to alter the power with regards to aftermarket parts other than to set the GYTR tuner map to the factory HARD hitting setting which gives me a little more snap. After a year, I'm really comfortable on the bike and ready for even more grunt and mid-range power. I'm looking for suggestions on how to achieve this without making any major changes. A pipe for one, would be a quick swap that could help. What pipe do you guys recommend? What else could I do to get more power? It's fuel injected, so no jetting to be done, right? I'm no mechanic, so looking for dumbed down suggestions. Thanks in advance!
  22. I have de smogged and kitted the bike out with a nice noisy mega bomb and 4.1 with JD jetting (considering vortex or get also) and have set up the high seat and suspension for me. If you had some money to burn on tuning the engine up further for a 2 day enduro race, buying a steering stabilizer or other performance parts what would you guys recommend or what have you tried that you loved?
  23. I bought a pw80 (1999) and it starts and idles fine. The problem I am having is that as soon as I engage first gear it bogs down and dies half the time. The times it does not die the rpms will go up for about 2 seconds then they bog down again and the same with 2nd and 3rd gear. I just don't understand why it bogs out when I put it in gear. I have tried several things to remedy this with no luck. Here is what I have done: Removed oil injector, put a plug on the carb where it was injecting and put a cover over the case where the injector used to fit. new piston, new rings, new piston bearing and had the cylinder honed out changed the transmission oil twice cleaned the carb out multiple times pilot jet 15 main 130, also tried a 30 pilot jet, same resultes needle clip 2nd position new spark plug opened up air box took out the restricter ring on the exhaust header and gutted the stock tail pipe. I have searched this forum and found people with similar problems but none of the solutions worked for me. Im thinking maybe its the clutch. with taking out the ball bearings help it or is that specifically for shifting purposes only? Could it be timing? When in neutral I can get the rpms pretty high but it does have a slight cut out thats almost imperceptible. also if it is the timing do i need a compression tester? (I read the timing thread and still a bit confused on how spinning the stator will change the timing.) THanks for any comments that will help and no thanks to comments that are not helpful.
  24. Got about 250 hours on my 18 EXCF-450. I've got my suspension dialed in- im a big rider. 1st gear wheelies effortlessly in any situation -as it should. 2nd - 4th gear cant wheelie at all, which is where I need it (mostly 2&3). Its utter shit. My 16 XC-f 350 would wheelie if a light breeze caught the throttle tube in any gear. I ride singletrack/Enduro. I only do practical wheelies to get the front up over logs, small pits, jumps-kickers etc... Dam thing flames out on quick throttle blips. I went down on the front sprocket from 14 to 13- Not much help, but 1st does respond quicker. Looking for advise to get the front end up with a blip and zap. -Praying that the $1000 Vortex ECU isn't the answer. HELP!
  25. So as I'm adding more and more auxiliary accessories to my Wr450f, I'm running out of room on the battery terminals to connect things. I've seen some "power distribution blocks" but they're all made for huge 0 gauge wire. Anybody have any ideas of what I could do? Or something like this, but for much smaller wire. Like 20 gauge.
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