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Found 24 results

  1. so I'm wondering about buying a 250cc 2 stroke I just turned 15 and weigh about 120lbs and am looking for a dirtbike coming off a Yamaha banshee. I will be mostly riding in the sand dunes but do go up and ride semi technical trails and desert riding. i've heard that a 125 will not have enough power for sand riding. would I be able to hold the bike up being around 5'9-5'10? what would y'all recommend I look for. (not at all considering a 4 stroke because of the costs of rebuilds)
  2. I've been riding my 2002 400s with stock 15/44 gearing for a while now. Unfortunately I find myself having to do a lot more highway than I would like to, to get to where I want to ride the dirt. I'm building the bike into a light adventure bike and I don't ride any super technical trails (I don't want to completely lose that ability though) but I do like some so-cal mountain trails. I anticipate a lot more highway miles in the future in order to reach the trails I'd like to ride, also meaning I'll be adding a little weight, camping gear etc.( I am a 150lb rider) I saw a 43t rear sprocket available, would 15/43 make any noticeable difference in my highway rpms (65-75) and how much damage would it do to my abilities on the trail. I would also like to know the same for 15/41 and if anyone can let me know what changes in chain would need to be made. This will be my first time experimenting with a gearing change on any bike that I have owned. Bike has 3/3 mod done, stock exhaust and a JD Jet Kit.
  3. 2008 crf250r. Just installed new gaskets for top end and new rings. I also adjusted the valves since the exhaust side had tightened up. I cleaned the jets in the carb prior to the top end work (which took about 3 weeks) It is still as difficult to start as before and i have to give the throttle a slight twist when i crank for it to start up. It will not idle and feels like it's significantly slower. I didn't ride it much before the top end work so maybe I'm just used to my 450 but it seems like it's sluggish. It doesn't pop at all though so what could be causing this?
  4. Hi everyone, I've also posted this in the jetting pages... Not sure if it's standard practice to repost in a couple of relevant sections. If not let me know and I'll remove a post. Really hoping for some advice on how other people have their 625 set up, and their experience with both the R&D Power Bowl 2 (or alternatives, though I feel the Boyensen Quickshots don't get the same reviews - and I'm not spending my money on gimmicks.) My specs - KTM 625 SMC 2007, 16,800 MILES. Titanium Akrapovic - twin slip on Stock header KTM airbox mod - steel cover with gauze 16-38 gearing (P/o had it 17-38) 188# main jet. This is it as far as I'm aware. So - it's a quick bike don't get me wrong, and I love the noise it makes, the torque and generally the character of the bike. But the 'light front wheel' everyone describes in 1,2,3 gears, I only experience in 1st. Short back story - I bought the bike and due to UK licence restrictions I had to put a carb disk into the inlet to restrict the power (by air flow). This meant the bike ran so damn rich it would bog at any more than 1/5 throttle. This didn't last long, I passed my test and took it out. My friend adjusted the fuel screw to make it a little leaner when the disk was in, and readjusted it when the disk came out, with the words 'its probably really rich how I've left it, but it's better than lean'. So I know my fuel economy isn't great, and the bike has good power, but this 188# main jet that's fitted sounds too rich. Most guys are saying between 170-182 and I'm planning to get it dynod and set up - I want it spot on. But I'm here to complain about the throttle response - the sharp wrench of the throttle seems to not have much power. I don't race this bike, and I don't take it to the track even, but I do want to get the best out of the carb. Second gear wheelies don't happen for me, let alone third. I don't really want to be trying to pull wheelies using techniques like clutch up, but the power wheelies you get, Only thing is - I just found out from the P/o that the bike hasn't had it's valve clearances checked since around 2500 of its 16,800 miles. I'm also concerned the spark plug is really due a change especially after all the rich running. So I need advice on the three solutions here - Servicing, analysis and re-jetting, and mods. I plan to take it for a proper service. I plan to get the carb cleaned and re-jetted (after dyno analysis), and I had been looking at the R&D powerbowl. However this is £180 ($250) and equals nearly the full cost of servicing and carb work. I hear some amazing reviews: 'tranforms the bike', 'how do people own bikes with FCR carbs and not own this' , 'how do people ride without this', and then I hear 'why do people turn to over-priced bolt on parts rather than a proper re-jet', and 'why do people refuse to rejet their bikes correctly, and use gimmicks instead'. But I'd rather not spend that money, as for example it equals a new set of tires down the road in summer when I've worn the current ones down. I've also got my eye on some tech7's, my current boots are &%$#@!ed. So what's the verdict? Will the carb rejet solve the issues, or only partially? If so, is there a cheaper alternative to the R&D Powerbowl that definitely does work? When I take it to the performance shop and run it on the dyno, will the mechanic need a JD jet kit to fully tune the carb? Or will a selection of jets suffice? And which ones? I appreciate any advice, I just want to get the bike running how it should, without throwing money at it. It just feels like it should accelerate with more urgency... After all that's why I have a supermoto!
  5. A few days ago I rode my Buddy's Beta RR300 2018 on a really slippery surface and just couldn't believe how smooth and powerfull his motor was at almost idle. You could just put it in second gear and took it of slowly with the clutch the rest you could control only with the throttle. Is there any mods to do to my engine to get even more low ground power. My power valve is set to 2 turns from seated. Should I put a thicker gasket underneath cylinder to decrease compression and to increase low end power, or it's the opposite. Any advice would be much appreciated. Best Regards, Peter
  6. Hi All, I'm having a mental debate on whether or not to pick up a Gnarly and Turbinecore 2 for my YZ250x. I want more lug and chug, and plan on getting the RK TEK head as well as an exhaust kit. First I wanted a quality exhaust set up to boost the power across the full rpm range, while having a spark arrrestor to keep woods riding legal and safe. I'm getting mixed messages about the power gain(or lack of) from this combo. FMF Stated on the phone and email that "There is no gnarly specific to the YZ250X and it is the same as the pipe for the YZ250. However the Turbinecore 2 is specific for the YZ250X to work with the back pressure generated by this motor." So essentially my understanding is the gnarly would be a zero sum gain, just a tougher and shinier pipe, but the Turbinecore 2 would be a gain. The tech then went on to say I would get a power gain across the entire RPM range with the Turbinecore 2, but wouldn't say whether or not the Gnarly was any better than stock. Running a Lectron which is dialed perfectly for the bike, and overall the 250x package is fantastic just want some more grunt down low. Looking for individual experiences so far with exhaust changes on the X. thanks NEGbrap
  7. So my 125 is bogging so much that is stalls when riding. It can be fine for a small amount of time, maybe half a lap but thats it, its fine when on the stand no bog at all. I took apart the top end today as I've read it could be the power valve, the bike has 4 laps on the new top end. The Z adjustment is out by 4mm, although it was perfect when rebuild was done. But the connecting rod won't move in order to adjust the Z measurement. I undone the screw the red arrow is pointing to and then moved the adjuster the blue arrow is pointing to but the rod does not move. Any advice?
  8. So i have a 2009 kx450f with efi and I'm trying to hook up lights and turn signals and all of that good stuff to make it street legal. I know I need to tap into the bikes power supply to power all of this but I don't know where that would be. Should I go through the cdi or the efi and if so where would that be.
  9. JoJo da Idiot Circus Clown

    Getting more out of my YZ250FX

    I own a 2016 YZ250FX. I love it. Great bike. I've done nothing to alter the power with regards to aftermarket parts other than to set the GYTR tuner map to the factory HARD hitting setting which gives me a little more snap. After a year, I'm really comfortable on the bike and ready for even more grunt and mid-range power. I'm looking for suggestions on how to achieve this without making any major changes. A pipe for one, would be a quick swap that could help. What pipe do you guys recommend? What else could I do to get more power? It's fuel injected, so no jetting to be done, right? I'm no mechanic, so looking for dumbed down suggestions. Thanks in advance!
  10. I’m currently at stock jetting on my 2003 yz250f. I’m rebuilding the top end with a 269cc big bore kit and installing an FMF power core 4 with megabomb exhaust. Current elevation is 700’ above sea level. Where should I start with my jetting? And where can I buy individual jets so that I don’t have to buy an entire assortment? Currently: 178 main 42 pilot needle is 4th Clip from top (stock)
  11. DRZ400 Bill

    pw80 low rpms in gear

    I bought a pw80 (1999) and it starts and idles fine. The problem I am having is that as soon as I engage first gear it bogs down and dies half the time. The times it does not die the rpms will go up for about 2 seconds then they bog down again and the same with 2nd and 3rd gear. I just don't understand why it bogs out when I put it in gear. I have tried several things to remedy this with no luck. Here is what I have done: Removed oil injector, put a plug on the carb where it was injecting and put a cover over the case where the injector used to fit. new piston, new rings, new piston bearing and had the cylinder honed out changed the transmission oil twice cleaned the carb out multiple times pilot jet 15 main 130, also tried a 30 pilot jet, same resultes needle clip 2nd position new spark plug opened up air box took out the restricter ring on the exhaust header and gutted the stock tail pipe. I have searched this forum and found people with similar problems but none of the solutions worked for me. Im thinking maybe its the clutch. with taking out the ball bearings help it or is that specifically for shifting purposes only? Could it be timing? When in neutral I can get the rpms pretty high but it does have a slight cut out thats almost imperceptible. also if it is the timing do i need a compression tester? (I read the timing thread and still a bit confused on how spinning the stator will change the timing.) THanks for any comments that will help and no thanks to comments that are not helpful.
  12. Kindill

    Electrical Headache

    Greetings Thumper Talk community, I've been using a 2002 DRZ 400 S as my daily driver all winter long without any kind of problems. Starting last week I have found the battery being depleting enough to not turn the starter motor. Using a jumper box I was able to get it running. After having the battery tested and replaced I assumed the problem was solved. Unfortunately this does not seem to be the case as the problem persisted. Checking with a multimeter and with the key in the OFF position there was no significant amp draw. So I'm not thinking there is a parasitic ground. Checked the stater and rectifier both seem to be in working order and with the bike running I could measure the voltage of the battery slowly increasing. Starting with a full charge by tender and 2 days of sporadic riding the battery is now down to 11.6 volts.. when I attempt to start it at 11.6 volts the neutral light heavily dims, and the starter motor sluggishly engages then stops. Assuming the new battery isn't faulty I am thinking there might be some short that is opened when the starter motor is engaged. But honestly I've no idea. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Side question: what voltage is required for the starter to start the bike? It was at 11.6V with the key in the off position and could barely turn over.
  13. WheelieWIll

    Need help with wiring

    So as I'm adding more and more auxiliary accessories to my Wr450f, I'm running out of room on the battery terminals to connect things. I've seen some "power distribution blocks" but they're all made for huge 0 gauge wire. Anybody have any ideas of what I could do? Or something like this, but for much smaller wire. Like 20 gauge.
  14. Diogo Francisco

    KTM 125 06 LOST POWERBAND HELP!!

    So... i recently purchased a used 2006 ktm exc 125 and the first rides were awesome, the bike was very snappy just like a 2 stroke should be.. yesterday the bike had a normal low end but absolutely no top end power. it won't hit that powerband...it seems like it has some kind of rev limiter. i think maybe its time to do a top end rebuild and check those powervalves and perhaps clean the carb and put a new filter in... any suggestions???
  15. Got about 250 hours on my 18 EXCF-450. I've got my suspension dialed in- im a big rider. 1st gear wheelies effortlessly in any situation -as it should. 2nd - 4th gear cant wheelie at all, which is where I need it (mostly 2&3). Its utter shit. My 16 XC-f 350 would wheelie if a light breeze caught the throttle tube in any gear. I ride singletrack/Enduro. I only do practical wheelies to get the front up over logs, small pits, jumps-kickers etc... Dam thing flames out on quick throttle blips. I went down on the front sprocket from 14 to 13- Not much help, but 1st does respond quicker. Looking for advise to get the front end up with a blip and zap. -Praying that the $1000 Vortex ECU isn't the answer. HELP!
  16. scott taggart

    '17 FE501 Need keyed 12V for GPS

    I just got my new '17 501FE. I gave some first impressions in a different post so I will not repeat. Short story is I need a good soyrce of KEYED 12V for my GPS hookup (by keyed I mean it turns off when the key is in the off position). I need someone smarter that I to interpret that wiring diagram... I have the service manual and printed the schematic. I can't make much of it -- I am very good at wiring diagrams and have added keyed 12V to many other bikes but this one has me stumped. The ignition switch on and off positions don;t seem like they take 12V and connect to anything - I think I have heard elsewhere that the ignition switch can be entirely removed and two wires connected or one connected to ground to make it a "regular, non-keyed dirt bike (an explanation of that would be great). It seems like this bike lets the ECU control everything and that there is no easy 12V for accessories available, per-se (I hope I am wrong). As part of a desperate experiment (I was running out of time before riding), I took my VOM and probed the wiring harness behind the headlight looking for a hot wire when the bike was running. The strange thing is that many were hot but only periodically!! I would plug my GPS into them and it would power up but then every 10 seconds or so say power was lost only to have it return a few seconds later!! Sure enough, if I measured any of these potential wires with my VOM they would show 13 of so volts for a while and then drop to zero for anywhere from .3 to 1 second before returning back to 13v. Very strange behavior and they were all sort of doing this. I did not haul out the oscilloscope to see detailed behavior but I am willing to do that... I presumably was tapped into something in the ECU. Ok, so that was some bad science and I am willing to move from the errors of my ways with your help. If you can provide insight (along with location on the wiring diagram and wire color) of where I might find reliable 12V when the bike is running, I would be grateful. Please don't say "just hook it to the battery with a switch - that is not my style or the solution I am looking for). Presumably others have interest in getting keyed power for their goodies too. Thanks for your constructive responses.
  17. I have a 2008 CRF150R Expert and am trying to find a way to get more power on straights, any ideas for modifications?
  18. WheelieWIll

    Wr450f Electrical Question

    Does anybody know how much power the WR's brake light draws? Talking about the actual brake light, not just the running light.
  19. I made a quick video of how I run the power for accessories and such on all of my bikes. Thought it might help some others out too:
  20. Im planning on adding some power to my 15 rmz250. The idea so far is High compression piston(not super high still want the option to run 91oct), and hot cams, and full exhaust, and getting it re-tuned on dyno. Im just wondering if anyone has had success making these motors faster how they did it.
  21. I have a 2018 KTM 250 SX and I have found my way to this forum because my ktm dealer is the only one in a two hour radius and does not know a lick about their own bikes. Also all of my family and friends have never had KTM's or Husky's. I race motocross and am in the Intermediate/B Class, I weight 185 pounds. So I was hoping I had some KTM gear heads on here to help me answer some questions. Warning: I am about to ask a lot of information so if some threads are already created just please point me to the link. My main goal is kind of crazy in my mind... I need more longer wrap out time in 2nd gear but need 3rd gear to be snappy out of turns so I do not burn up my clutch. I ask this because a lot of the tracks I ride at in Missouri have pretty good size jumps right out of a sweeper or sharp turn. I dont like to hit them in 2nd right now because I get the Ronnie mac air boner affect in the air (because 2nd gear is very snappy and short). 1. Does anyone have any recommended adjustments for the RED power valve spring? (turns out/turns in?) Also what is the tool/socket I need to adjust, Robertson? What size? 2. Any recommended suspension settings other than the manual? 3. My manual says the bike has a Performance ignition map that can be plugged in? Is that correct or is that only for the EXC models? 4. What rear tire has everyone seemed to run on this bike, 120 or 110? 5. Hate the long silencer exhaust, Should I run the FMF Shorty or the ProCircuit Shorty? 6. What size rear sprocket seems to work best for motocross with this bike? 49? thanks for the much needed help!
  22. shift_love

    kx65 NO TOP END POWER

    let me start off by saying, that i am a long time reader, but have never posted until today. I HAVE SEARCHED EXTENSIVELY. all over. i have done multiple fixes and changes. but, here we go... I road race in a mini bike series. kx65's are ultra popular and competitive due to their cheapness, speed and weight. I have a kx65, my frineds have kx65's, everyone has kx65's! lol My kx65 however seems to have no top end power. I can run lap times close to 2 seconds faster on our endurance bike (which i dont own), and I can always really feel the top end pull on it. Both bikes are modded exactly the same. except one runs race gas, mine does not. I have ridden other peoples kx65's and their bikes also make more top end power than mine does. What its doing is it feels like the top end just flattens out and tapers off right when it should be at peak power. It doesnt bog, it doesnt stutter, it just flattens out and makes no power where there should be 2-4k rpms of more power band. MODS MADE TO BIKE -wiseco 46.5mm piston (72cc), GENUINE keihin pwk28 carb - 132-148 main tested. float level set to factory specs, 42 pilot is golden, clip set to third position, off idle is beautiful, mid is great and will power wheelie shifting from first to second. vforce 3 carbon reeds. moose intake spacer, dent free factory expansion chamber, brand new pro circuit pipe. -crank, piston, and main bearings have 10 hours on them. rings have maybe 1 hour on them, plug color with WOT plug chops in fourth are kinda ehhh, not dark, but not light, but i can never jet it to the point of it being brown on the main jet. i have as of today ordered a 130 main jet to try even leaner settings...color largely remains the same no matter what, power is flatter with richer jetting things ive done to try and recitfy this issue -new crank seals, split case and resealed it, new piston rings, performed leak down test, held pressure except for at the plugs on the leak down tester. confirmed with soapy water... jetted and jetted and jetted. confirmed timing position. 120psi of compression on brand new rings...maybe they just hadnt seated yet?, new dent free expansion chamber, new head gasket, pit free head, confirmed squish at .65mm at all four corners. squish is however tighter right at the edge due to head gasket being slightly smaller due to 72cc piston (everyone else i race with is like this too though), what else...checked coolant system, no leaks, holds water over the course of a race weekend. last year i ran a grom, it was a pig, i wanted to get results and lap times like i had on my buddies 65, so i got a used clapped out 65 and built it. so here we are...makes great bottom and mid power, falls flat on the top, doesnt bog, doesnt stutter, and my gearing is a little bit shorter than some peoples. i get plenty of drive off of other riders on the corner, but they catch, pass me on the striaghts. when trying to pass people, i suck up on them on the brakes and in turns, then they leave me on the straight. its been half a season of me not getting results and im getting heavily annoyed... am i simply running out of my powerband and its being exacerbated by slightly shorter gearing? is my clutch slipping and making it feel like it doesnt build anymore power, but the motor isnt really increasing in revs...is my stator or coil going bad? who knows. im sure its engine related... any more ideas or questions and i will immediately respond because i sit at a desk all day at work, and have pretty much unlimited internet access... long post is looooonnnnngggggggg my neighbors are beginning to get pissed at me for screaming around all the time doing plug chops...
  23. 2008 crf250r. Just installed new gaskets for top end and new rings. I also adjusted the valves since the exhaust side had tightened up. I cleaned the jets in the carb prior to the top end work (which took about 3 weeks) It is still as difficult to start as before and i have to give the throttle a slight twist when i crank for it to start up. It will not idle and feels like it's significantly slower. I didn't ride it much before the top end work so maybe I'm just used to my 450 but it seems like it's sluggish. It doesn't pop at all though so what could be causing this?
  24. Hi everyone, Really hoping for some advice on how other people have their 625 set up, and their experience with both the R&D Power Bowl 2 (or alternatives, though I feel the Boyensen Quickshots don't get the same reviews - and I'm not spending my money on gimmicks.) My specs - KTM 625 SMC 2007, 16,800 MILES. Titanium Akrapovic - twin slip on Stock header KTM airbox mod - steel cover with gauze 16-38 gearing (P/o had it 17-38) 188# main jet. This is it as far as I'm aware. So - it's a quick bike don't get me wrong, and I love the noise it makes, the torque and generally the character of the bike. But the 'light front wheel' everyone describes in 1,2,3 gears, I only experience in 1st. Short back story - I bought the bike and due to UK licence restrictions I had to put a carb disk into the inlet to restrict the power (by air flow). This meant the bike ran so damn rich it would bog at any more than 1/5 throttle. This didn't last long, I passed my test and took it out. My friend adjusted the fuel screw to make it a little leaner when the disk was in, and readjusted it when the disk came out, with the words 'its probably really rich how I've left it, but it's better than lean'. So I know my fuel economy isn't great, and the bike has good power, but this 188# main jet that's fitted sounds too rich. Most guys are saying between 170-182 and I'm planning to get it dynod and set up - I want it spot on. But I'm here to complain about the throttle response - the sharp wrench of the throttle seems to not have much power. I don't race this bike, and I don't take it to the track even, but I do want to get the best out of the carb. Second gear wheelies don't happen for me, let alone third. I don't really want to be trying to pull wheelies using techniques like clutch up, but the power wheelies you get, Only thing is - I just found out from the P/o that the bike hasn't had it's valve clearances checked since around 2500 of its 16,800 miles. I'm also concerned the spark plug is really due a change especially after all the rich running. So I need advice on the three solutions here - Servicing, analysis and re-jetting, and mods. I plan to take it for a proper service. I plan to get the carb cleaned and re-jetted (after dyno analysis), and I had been looking at the R&D powerbowl. However this is £180 ($250) and equals nearly the full cost of servicing and carb work. I hear some amazing reviews: 'tranforms the bike', 'how do people own bikes with FCR carbs and not own this' , 'how do people ride without this', and then I hear 'why do people turn to over-priced bolt on parts rather than a proper re-jet', and 'why do people refuse to rejet their bikes correctly, and use gimmicks instead'. But I'd rather not spend that money, as for example it equals a new set of tires down the road in summer when I've worn the current ones down. I've also got my eye on some tech7's, my current boots are &%$#@!ed. So what's the verdict? Will the carb rejet solve the issues, or only partially? If so, is there a cheaper alternative to the R&D Powerbowl that definitely does work? When I take it to the performance shop and run it on the dyno, will the mechanic need a JD jet kit to fully tune the carb? Or will a selection of jets suffice? And which ones? I appreciate any advice, I just want to get the bike running how it should, without throwing money at it. It just feels like it should accelerate with more urgency... After all that's why I have a supermoto!
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