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Found 48 results

  1. I have a Ktm 200exc that was jetted very nicely. The other day, after doing some of research, I decided I wanted to play around with the powervalve. Now the the bike will rev to a certain rpm and then flatline on power (wont rev out). 1/8 - 1/2 throttle feels very nice, but 3/4 - full throttle wont rev any higher and doesn't have any power. Can anyone help me fix my mistake?
  2. I have recently purchased my first 1997 CR125. When purchased the top end needed to be replated and rebuilt so I sent out the cylinder to be replated and had to remove the power valve bearing before sending out. In preparation for the cylinder to return and reassembly, I am trying to plan how I am going to press the bearing back in. I looked in the service manual and it said I need a Honda part to press the bearing back in. I would like to avoid buying the tool if possible would anybody know of any DIY ways to press the bearing back in without messing up the bearing? Any tips would be appreciated.
  3. Hey guys, my knowledge of the 2-stroke power valve is one of those things that has slowly accumulated over many years of riding and I always felt like I had a decent basic understanding. And then a few weeks ago I suddenly found myself wondering if what I think I know is actually true. So...when in doubt, turn to Google, right? Wow, I found all kinds of different and sometimes entertaining takes on the subject. But I never found a source that both fully addressed the basic principles of operation AND delved into the fine details of tuning for different types of riding and terrain. So I thought I'd start a new topic and see what I can learn. I'll limit this initial post to the general principles of PV operation, and then later tie in the discussion of detailed tuning using the different springs/preloads and how this can be used to optimize a bike's performance in specific types of terrain. So.....my understanding is that the sole function of the PV is to vary exhaust port size and timing in order to optimize the power characteristics of the motor over a broad rpm range. At WOT the PV is fully engaged (open), making the port larger and allowing exhaust gases to escape earlier in the stroke of the piston. This optimizes power at full throttle. As rpm's drop the PV begins to close. This reduces the size of the port and effectively delays the opening of the port, again optimizing the power characteristic. Now here's where it begins to get a little more interesting. Combustion engineering tells us that there is an optimal port size and timing at any given time that will maximize power output. And in an ideal world there would be a way to perfectly vary exhaust volume and timing to match the rpm and load on the motor at any given instant. Of course this level of sophistication isn't available to us in the dirtbike world, and the closest thing we have is the PV. Not perfect, but designed to mechanically approximate the optimal conditions based on engine rpm, and it does a reasonably good job. And since we don't always WANT maximum power output at every given instant throughout the rpm range, we adjust the timing of the PV actuation to essentially customize the power delivery to our specific desires and needs. Ideally this should be done within a defined range that retains reasonably good engine performance. If you get outside this range then the power characteristics will suffer and the bike can become more difficult to ride. For example, by adjusting the PV to begin opening sooner we can cause a smoother "hit". But if we open it too soon then the engine will lack the torque needed to function well at lower rpm's. This is caused by the fact that the port opening (too soon) and exhaust volume (too large) is not ideally matched to the needs of the motor. Conversely, we can adjust the PV to open later for a more defined hit. But if we open it too late then there will be increasing power losses as rpm's rise, followed by an overly explosive hit that causes traction and control problems. Again, this is caused by the fact that the port timing (too late) and exhaust volume (too small) isn't ideally matched to the rising motor speed. We can also change the rpm at which the PV reaches a fully open state by changing the small spring in a KTM PV, with the general principle being that lighter springs reach full open faster than stiffer springs. All right guys, that is what I think I know. Now..please shoot it full of holes where I missed the mark!! Or fill in the blanks if I left out important details.
  4. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  5. I have a 2001 rm125 Is my power valve activation rod supposed to have any play in it? I can move it about .5 cm until it’s tight against the power valve spring and actually moves the power valves. It looks like maybe I can just tighten the bolt shown that is on top of the spring.
  6. Just rebuilt my top end, brand new vertex piston with rings. Measured to make sure every thing is in spec. Put everything back on the way it came off, torqued everything. And left the bike waiting to be started. The day finally came when I got a decent enough day to get on it and break it in. Started right up no problems. Let it warm up before I rode it. Rode it lightly at first, then started to get on the gas. Annnnnd there was no hit, I did do a jetting change for the colder weather, went up 1 size on the main. (162 to 165 Main). Changed the needle from a Necj to a Nedw. Both at 3rd pos. Had bottom end power, just no top end. When I put the cylinder on, I didn't make sure the little arm that controls the power valve was lined up with the sprocket thing. I did take the power valve assembly apart to clean it (it was clean for the most part, no carbon build up, just oily). Put back together just like the manual said to. I just don't think the jetting would have that much of an effect on the power. Before I rode it, I had my suspicions that I did not get it right because I didn't double/triple check when putting the cylinder on. I have a video that I took of the no hit segment. It sounded weird to me but wasn't sure because this was my first rebuild ever. ***I sound kinda weird in the video and excuse my cursing Lmao***
  7. I got a question. I own a 2016 KX 85. It ran AMAZING after it first bought it used and was in beautiful condition and I picked it up for only 2500. I was riding when all of a sudden it started bogging down right before the power band.i don’t think it’s jetting because the bogging just turned on like a switch and it was running perfect before it. The bike was like that for a month. Apparently the previous owner never oiled the filter so it was dry as a rock and was falling apart and got sucked into to the intake so I’m guessing my power valve is gummed up or stuck close or open. I was riding one day with the bog issue and about 35 minutes of riding I shut it off to take a break. Came back 20 minutes later and it would not start.I changed the spark plug, cleaned out the carb,checked the reeds,and tried hill starting it but nothing. When ever I try to hill start it I can hear it trying to crank and It starts for like half a second but then dies.I don’t remember if I left the fuel petcock on but what I’m guessing is that I flooded the engine and tried starting which messed up my electronics.The reason why I think I flooded the Engine is because when I took off the reeds the intake manifold and reed were soaked in gas.I heard that starting the engine while flooded can mess with a woodruff key or your CDI or something. There is spark coming from the plug though.And yes I mix the gas with oil at 32:1 cause I’m in the pipe all the time.This is my first time owning a 2 stroke.Any answers or tips.
  8. i am building a 2003 kx 85 for a guy. i got the bike an it was locked up top and bottom end. i tore the bike down and put a vertex top end with a hotrod crank, with a new/ used transmition. i have had a lot of ups an downs with this bike, such as before i got it running the powervalve governer spring gear, i discovered was completely shot. so i put a new one in. i finally got the bike up and running with little effort. the bike ran so crisp started 2nd kick every time 1st kick after warm. i was just waiting on some odds and ends to tie the bike together an give it back to the owner. but the other day after riding the bike for allitle to test the bike after putting about 2 hours of the top end to make sure everything was good. i went to start up the bike and it would start and then cut off. i got home found a piece of metal in the bottom of the inner clutch cover, then i then matched that piece up with the old powervalve actuator,(kips) . so as i would usually do when a part breaks i replace it. so i went and got a used pwoervalve actuator(kips), i waited for arival and after a long time of waiting i installed the new kips, wich i thought i installed correctly, by lining up the dot with the case mark, but the thing is is i go to start up the bike and the bike starts up 2nd kick like always and i let it warm up on choke and i give it alittle throttle and it returns to idle (not hitting the powerband) so i start to rev the bike right before the power band and blip the throttle, it reved into the powerband and sputtered and shit off (puffing out smoke while spuddering) it will only shut off when i let off the throttle, the thing that gets me is that i checked my allignment witht the case mark no exageration like 6 times and the bike will do the same thing, i then toom the plastic powervalve cover off to see if the powervalve was being stuck open or something of that nature. but it was opending and closing but it took awhile for it to close almost like the powervalve is being held open but not stuck. i am just verry lost and have been raking my head for days now. please help me. and if anyone is willing to talk with me about this private message me and i will give you my phone number. i will also provide videos and pictures appon request.
  9. Hello all, i am having trouble with my rm250 (2000) power valve, i have almost everything complete motor wise but getting the powervalve put back together is proving to get the best of me, i cannot figure out how the spring (17) sits exactly when re assembly. any help is greatly appreciated.
  10. New to me 200sx new to KTM in general. I've done some research on here and thanks for all the great posts. Here are my issues. the bike runs horrible I've cleaned the carb and put new jets 190 and 45 and new needle and checked the float level all are good. It has a new spark plug and v force 3 reeds and cage. So I went to check to see where my power valve is set on the left side of the bike and the hash mark on the right is below the 2 hash marks on the left so far that you can barely see it. So I went to the right side window to see if the Fork and Ball are married and the are. I can move the fork are up slightly but not down. When I try to adjust the PV with the large nut I can move it in and out and the hash mark will not move at all. So I think my issues could be either a gummed up power valve assembly or the balls in my timer fell out of place. my question is am I doing the right things and should I pull the left inner clutch cover before I pull the head to clean the PV. Please let me know if im doing the right things or should I be looking elsewhere.
  11. I am in the process of replacing my crank case seal on my 200 exc, however as I took the case off I noticed that their is a small hole in the back bottom chamber where the power valve lever sets. It looks Manufactured this way and would be impossible to drill a perfect hole in that location. Anyway anyone know why this is that way? It is a bit confusing as it would allow oil to get into the PV and into the Piston and burn/smoke/splooge like crazy IE same Symptoms as a Compromised crank case seal. Am I just over thinking it? Any input would be great thanks!! 1st pic is of light in hole 2nd pic is close of of pick tool through hole 3rd is the PV chamber and location of said hole.
  12. I have a Ktm 200exc that was jetted very nicely. The other day, after doing some of research, I decided I wanted to play around with the powervalve. Now the the bike will rev to a certain rpm and then flatline on power (wont rev out). 1/8 - 1/2 throttle feels very nice, but 3/4 - full throttle wont rev any higher and doesn't have any power. Can anyone help me fix my mistake?
  13. I have a 2001 Cr125 that the power valve is only opening about halfway. When I bought it the person before me installed the linkage to the power valve with an old cotter pin and it came apart, so I took the side cover off and inspected the governor and made sure the linkage was in the correct place. When putting it all back together the power valve sits in the closed position when bike is not running. The bike starts and runs good with throttle just barely cracked open but will not hit powerband at all. Anyone have any ideas what this could be? Thanks in advance.
  14. I have an 04 Cr125 that has a weird issue where when I start it cold it seems to run flawlessly with a crisp sound and great power but when I turn it off and start it again the bike sounds sloppy and has a noticeable lack of power and seems to sound very muffled especially in higher rpms. A couple of months ago I switched out the stock carburetor (with TPS) for a keihin airstriker carb (no TPS) and it started doing this, I tried adjusting the idle and air screws but it didn’t help. I asked my brother for some help and he seems to think it has to do with the power valve, any suggestions?
  15. I’m rebuilding my top end of my 2000 yz250 and I’m havOmg some problems installing the power valve into my new cylinder. I have a few questions as to do I need to adjust the slides on the sides of the shaft and also when I put the shaft in place which side does the half moon cut out face on the shaft when looking at the side of the cylinder ? Hope someone can help me out I’ve been trying to look on google and no help yet.
  16. I am having a few problems with my rm85 #1- it almost feels like it is running on choke in first and second gear. I believe this is due to the fact that a.) the plastic linkage on my powervalve is obliterated. b.) I believe my governor gear is also bead because whenever I pull off the powervalve cover, the rod going into the case on the gear won’t move up or down when revved, but is very easy to move by hand. Almost feels like it isn’t attached to anything. #2- (building on #1) first and second gear feels very low on power. I was under the impression that an 85 two stroke would be a lot more powerful than a125 four stroke which is what I used to have. I believe this problem is also linked to #1 but I am just not sure yet. In 3, 4, 5, and 6 gear it feels perfectly fine, but in 1st and 2nd I feel like I should be able to pop a wheelie pretty easily but just can’t. #3- (also very likely linked to #1 and 2) the throttle feels very sluggish when I turn it in about the first 1/4. When I try to flick it all the way, it seems as if it will bog out for a split second but it picks itself back up. #4- I have a mysterious leak of coolant somewhere around my powervalve- I’m thinking it could be the o ring on the cylinder head is bad. Other than these issues, it runs pretty well, I would say a little on the rich side because it does like to leak a bit of oil from the exhaust, but hopefully I can fix that with the clip on the needle. Keep in mind though my descriptions may not be entirely accurate because I’ve only ever had four strokes. Anyways, if there is anything you think would help, just let me know please-thanks in advance!
  17. So i just bought a ktm 200 and I think that it could have a little more bottom end punch in the powerband, but i dont really know how to adjust the power valve or if there is even a power-valve, If some one out there knows how to adjust it reply please. Thanks
  18. 2001 rm250 power valve rod that connects to the bottom end to the power valve. It came loose from the bottom end. Is their anyway at all I can hook it back up without taking apart the whole bottom end just for that ?! Please help thanks!
  19. Hi, New member here! 🙂 I am interested in 2 bikes, the KTM 125 SX and 150 SX. I know the 150 SX is obviously got a bit more power but I am wondering what the exact differences are. Is it just the cylinder and piston or are there other changes? I am wondering because if there are big differences that means that parts made for the 125 SX won't fit the 150 SX. Most parts are for 125/250/300 bikes I assume. I am assuming that they are very much the same which means that if for example a company makes an exhaust for the 125 SX then it would fit on the 150 SX. I hope that is true. My other question is on the Power Valve system. Does KTM use that Power Valve with the green, yellow and red springs for the 125 SX and 150 SX? Or is it that other one one with that notch? Any help is glady appreciated! 🙂 Sorry I am also fairly dumb when it comes to bikes, although I used to ride a lot, as it has been a while. I have forgotten a lot about riding.
  20. Ive posted my problems in the 200 club, but my issue doesn't need to be cluttering up that thread. The Problem: About 3-4 weeks ago, I have noticed that all the way up in the revs, the bike kinda sputters and cuts out. Power down low is not effected and the bike idles/starts just fine. Not erratic, but when I open it up, it makes this noise and the bike loses power. It almost sounds like a 4 stroke rev limiter tbh. What I've done: I have changed jetting, gone leaner and richer with mains, needles, and needle pos. Jetting has remained the same and this wasn't an issue before. I was able to hit max speed no problem before. But did anyways to see if it would do anything. I have taken the cylinder off to clean the powervalve. I did that 30 hours ago when I did my top end, but did it again to make sure. Put it back together to Andrew Cookseys video on YT. I have checked the powervalve linkage in the inner clutch cover. All the ball bearings were in place where they should be on the timer. I replaced the actuator pin that connects the arm and the centrifugal timer. I had an aftermarket 1 way valve gas tank thing on my gas cap. Took that off to see if it was causing a vapor lock. Nope. I have clear fuel hose from the tank to the carb. There is gas flowing. I am going to today take off the carb and deep clean it and check all the ports and what not to make sure they are not plugged with stuff. I have no idea where to look now after the carb. I guess it could be an electrical problem but I really hope not.
  21. Hey, I'm wondering how often the Powervalve system should be cleaned (namely KX100) for woods riding. Thanks!
  22. Hey I've been experiencing problems with my powervalve. I turned the powervalve adjuster with a wrench without loosening the crew that holds it in place (forgot all about the screw). I then loosened the screw, realizing my mistake, but when I tightened it back on it didn't stop the adjustment knob from moving freely. My bike is a KTM 125sx. I unscrewed the screw out completely and it is only a short screw that does not physically contact the power valve adjuster. How is this screw suppose to work? Am I missing a part or is the screw suppose to hold the adjuster by air compression or something? p.s. There is a small constant leak of oil from the adjuster knob, but poured oil for a second or two after shutting bike off last time I rode it. Also the power valve adjustment doesn't seem to change when screwing the adjuster valve in/out but I could be incorrect about this since I haven't had much time to test/mess with it.
  23. Hey guys, working on my 1999 Suzuki RM125. Last time I drove the bike, there was a crunching sound. Compression was instantly lost, and the bike died. I decided to take a look, thinking it needed a new top end. I knew the piston was old, and it looked like part of the exhaust valve went too far into the cylinder and then the piston collided with it. I'd rather not spend hundreds of dollars on exhaust valve parts. So I was wondering: what if I just remove the valve that broke off, and left the other. So one side would actuate normally, while the other side would always be wide open (as if I was revving the bike hard). I was wondering how much this affect the lower rpm range of the bike's power. Has anyone ever completely removed the power valve? What was it like to drive? I know this isn't the best option, but its cheaper, and at least one of the sides still works, so I would be getting some control. I could even adjust the spring tension to compensate, maybe.
  24. Hello! I got a ktm exc 125 2008, but it doesnt feels like its running as good as other 125's. the "hit" is coming but its low power at low torque. I think its lower than other 125's i have seen. For example: If i try to wheelie in 3rd gear at middle torque, the bike gets up, but looses power and goes back to the road again. I opened the cylinder this winter and assemblied the power valve, but is it possible that i have mounted it wrong when the "hit" is coming? I think its just wrong adjusted. How do i fix this? Please help :D
  25. Well I know this is not the first time this has happened. I remember seeing a thread yrs ago with the same issue on a yz250. First for me though.. I was doing the top end on my bike this afternoon. It has 90hrs on this top end and 190 total engine hrs. Didn’t notice any valve fluttering or anything out of the ordinary last few rides. Anybody know what causes this? Just looked and nobody seems to have a PV in stock for the X... I think it’s a different PN from the standard 250... $120 bucks
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