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Found 82 results

  1. I would like to preface this by saying that this might be somewhat of a rookie question, but never the less I am in search of answers. For some time now I have noticed that the front brake on my 2003 450 EXC has been fairly squeaky when coming to stops, even though I have hardly put any miles on the bike since I installed new pads several months ago. Upon closer inspection to the front caliper I noticed that the outside stationary brake pad does not appear to clear the thin channel located at the top of the brake pad for the rotor to pass through (picture provided). I would also like to add that I have an extra front caliper for my model KTM that also appears to have the same "issue", and this caliper is also the one I will be posting photos of, instead of the one currently mounted on the bike. So, is it possible that this is the source of the banshee screech my front brake seems to emit whilst coming to a stop? If so, does anyone know of any fixes for this issue, or is it something that I just shouldn't be worrying about? As a final side note, the only direct, let's call it, "performance" issue I have noticed is that my front brake is unable to keep the front wheel locked whenever I attempt to do burnouts. I could basically be squeezing the lever so hard that I feel like it's going to snap off in my hand, and the front wheel will either slowly roll, or sightly hop. Thanks to all in advance for any help or wisdom given, it is very much appreciated.
  2. Today I decided to clean the carburator of my crf250r 2005. It was my second time doing it. When I opened up the top of the carburator to remove the slide, I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and I still slid the slide out, but the control arm is now stuck. This video explain what I should have done at about 1:00. The only difference is I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and now the control arm is sutck up and I can't slide it back down with the slide. I was still able to remove the slide. Anyone knows how to fix this? I can't acces the throttle shaft screw anymore since the control arm is stuck up.
  3. Hello Thumpertalk Community, My First Post here and i'm going to start with a Big one... for me at least. On my 2005 XR650r wich is an ED Type i guess? (Bought in Germany i think(2nd Owner)) My Stock Stator somehow broke after long investigations a specialized company found out that one of the Coils wich is responsible for the Ignition is broken. Repairing would've cost me about 300€ (~280$ i guess?) and a compleatly new OEM would've cost me 600€ wich is why i bought a RickyStator from Xr'sOnly after a good month the stator arrived (due to customs) and as i Wanted to Replace the old one i noticed a big problem: The OEM Stator has wiring wich looks like this: A multi caple Plug with 5 Cables in it. 2 Cables for the ignition. The RickyStator one Looks like this: 8-10 Loose Cables of wich 2 where in a MultiCable Plug Ignition Cables are Known Dosn't fit but i got a question Would the Bike run if i only run the Ignition Cables? Does every cable have to do 1 exact "job" or are the rest of those wich arn't igniton cables only for supplying the rest of the bike with the 12 Volts? Anyone had the same or similar Problem? Pliz halp am only good with mechanical problems not with electrical stuff Thank you in Advance i guess
  4. Hello, 2016 ktm 150sx. I am the only owner and have less than 20hr on this bike. It developed a shifting problem. It will not stay in gear, jumps around in and out of all the gears, running or not. I pulled it out of the shop yesterday pushed it up to the another building leaned it aganst the wall. came back to move it and it was in gear. The shifter feels real simmilar to a small kids quad. where all the gear shifts are one direction, and even though you shift down to first gear you can still just keep clicing it down all day long (if you follow what I mean by that. it does not hit a floor once you are in 1st like any other 1 down 5 up tranny). I have found and downloaded the manual. I could find the link if anyone needs it, but nice guy 10 dollar donation and instant access to 100's of ktm service manuals. Anyways i found the time to start tearing it down, but thought it would be best to see if anyone has had or seen a similar issue be for I start.
  5. Hi all, I have a 2004 kx 250 2 stroke and it wont start. it only backfires. I was out riding it one day and came up to a stop so the bike was just idling and it started to try and die so i revved it up a few times then let it die and now it wont start back up. It only pops or backfires when you kick it. Its getting good spark and i just put a brand new plug and coil in it. I took the reeds apart and they look like they're brand new. It was running great before so i dont know what happened. Im thinking it could be a fuel problem even tho the plug is a little wet if you take it out after a bunch of kicking. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks
  6. Got a 2005 DR-Z400S with only 2500miles on it a couple of days ago. It's in really good condition appearance wise and runs fine for the most part, has supposedly been sitting barely used for a few years. Will run fine for several miles at a time, but will suddenly begin surging and stuttering, as if throttle is cutting out momentarily, then if I release the throttle the engine usually just dies and refuses to start up without dying again within a few seconds. If it's sitting idle at the time the problem occurs, I can hear the engine begin to drop revs and sound less consistent, then it usually dies after about 10 seconds even if I try to keep the revs high. While this is going on the throttle also feels less responsive. If I then just wait at the side of the road for about 5 minutes, it'll usually then start right up first time and I'll be on my way for another couple of miles until it happens again. The distance I've managed between compulsory stops has varied between about one mile and ten miles. It's happened when the bike's idle and when I've been doing 70mph on the motorway, which was great fun. Any thoughts on what the culprit could be? Thanks a lot
  7. I recently picked up a 2004 cr85 with a fresh top end, v force reed petals, new crankshaft, and full gasket kit. I just installed a new air filter aswell. The bike seems to be in good running condition except for the fact that when it idles it will idle very high, but rarely it will idle normally by itself but usually i will have to let out the clutch slowly untill it almost dies then pull it back in quick then it will idle fine untill i hit the throttle again. Anybody know what the issue is??? Thanks
  8. Hi i had a problem with my husqvarna fe 250 2015. I have been riding it for a year and suddenly it wouldnt start. Not even crank. I cleaned all the contacts and checked the fuses. In the process i accidently connected my battery backwards, a mistake i will never do again.. But after going through all contacts and changing the main fuse it suddenly started, ran for a few seconds, ran poorly and then the rectifier started smoking. Bought a new one but all i get is cranking. No sound from the fuel pump, no spark. All the relays and fuses seem ok. Cleaned ground surfaces, tried a new battery. I measured the ignition coil and got the right amount of ohm. Does anyone know if the Ecu could be damaged? Also wondering if the stator/pickup could be damaged?
  9. Hey guys I just bought a 1979 ts 125 the other pulled it apart and threw it together...well most of it anyways... my problem is getting the clutch cover back on due to how the clutch is setup. With a sort of rack and pinion setup going on? Hoping for pointers I haven't ever built an older bike like this before! Thanks all
  10. Yesturday my bike started stuttering, just a little over closed throttle (on low rpms), on high rpms, it is ok... Sounds exactly like water in the gasoline... No error codes... 2 hours after sitting there cooling, I went to start it... oh nooooo.... after 30 minutes of kick starting and sweating, I managed to turn it on while someone on another motorcycle pushed me... it just needed faster cranking... So I finaly got home, and started looking for the problem... I emptied the gas tank, (although there was no water)... I put new gas Fuel pump checked... Fuel injector checjed... Coil checked... Pick up coil checked... pulses fine Checked all cables, no short circuits... So... when cranked I initially had spark, but no fuel... afterwards, no spark-no fuel... No error codes.... Any opinions?
  11. i’m tryna raise my sag a bit except the the plastic nut that ktm/husky have is just getting dented by the screw driver. i know there’s tools out there designed for it but the ones for dirt bikes are just another punch so i figure they would strip/dent the plastic aswell. otherwise there’s those ones that are actually like a spanner except they’re only really useable when there’s open space around the nut. Am i doing something wrong? has the plastic gone soft over time? what are your guys thoughts?
  12. Just bought a 2000 KX 250 two-stroke for a great deal when looking for a project bike. When I put the bike in neutral which is a little hard to find, it jumps into first gear by itself and trys to takeoff no matter if I squeeze the clutch lever or not. When I first started the bike it basically did a burnout in my garage with no throttle applied and the clutch lever pressed then it just stalls out eventually this happened for about five seconds. Attached are some pictures of my clutch disk and clutch basket from what I researched today the basket should not look this bad , but do you guys think? Is the clutch the source of my problems or is it something internal and would I need to split the case.
  13. My engine on my 2017 Husqvarna fc 250 rattles when the clutch is not pulled in. I’m not sure if this is normal as it is my first 4 stroke but I assume it is not. Any help or knowledge about this will help alot
  14. Hi everybody. I come to this forum which I've been browsing extensively. Despite the large amount of information concerning the settings of this carburetor on thumpertalk, I have a problem that I can't solve. That's why I'm creating a new topic despite the amount of information I already have. I live in the swiss alps and I bought a 2004 european WRF450 supermoto six months ago. Perfect bike for the small winding roads near my house. I have completely revised it and it works well. Here are the different characteristics: -Main jet: 165 defined by the method of stopping carburation at full throttle. good spark plug color. -Pilot Jet: 50 -Pilot air jet: 80 -Pilot screw: 3 and 1/2 turn out!!!! -Needle model/Clip position: OBDUQ/ 2nd positon from the top (european stock) (OBDUR ordered for lower clip height) -Exhaust: Stock -AP timing set correctly with a 3.1mm diameter shaft. -Altitude where you ride: 1500-2000 -Valve lash good The bike starts well at the first kick. No bugs when the motorcycle is running As you can see the pilot screw is (much) too loose. Even if I increase the diameter of the pilot jet (to have a richer setting and to be able to tighten the screw in a correct range),the setting of pilot screw remains the same: 3 or more turns out. I went up .48 to a .55 pilot jet and the problem remains the same. The carburettor has been completely disassembled, ultrasonic cleaned, all gaskets changed. the height of the float has been adjusted to 8 mm. Pilot screw, o-ring and spring are new and have been ordered from Yamaha. I don't understand why the change of pilot jet has no effect. Ideas?
  15. I'm having a little bit of a problem with my 2002 cr250 and I hope you guys can help me figure it out. Every time I wash my bike water ends up in the carb,reeds I do use a power washer but I don't get too close to any of that stuff, it makes the bike idle really high when I first start after a wash and hard to start at first. TIA.
  16. Okay guys I could really use some help on this one, I've been diagnosing this bike for almost 2 months now without success. I've spent hours on the phone with a technician in Anchorage, time searching this forum, and in the manual as I live in an area of Alaska without a dealer/ tech. 2012 KX450F set up for a Snow Bike kit I just bought this year haven't had one ride. Problem after checking valve lash bike developed difficulty starting. (Here we go I've checked the valves they are good to go triple checked...., the bike runs fine the issue is starting.) At this point the only way I'm able to start the bike is by unplugging the capacitor and hooking up 12V battery, if I dont do this and allow the fuel pump to prime at least 1-3 times bike will not start. Things I have checked so far... Valves in spec Ignition Coil Fuel pump flow test in spec Fuel pump pressure test in spec Stator Magneto output in spec DFI self diagnostic gave a water temp sensor code (replaced and didnt solve) Fuel injector ohm tested in spec Voltage to Fuel injector in spec Crank sensor in spec ECM replaced (didnt solve problem) Regulator Rectifier 12-13V output which is not in Spec (14V-14.5V) but dont suspect that to cause this problem? Spark Plug replaced Capacitor tested passed OHMs test Ground to ECM in spec I bought wiring harness, ECM, Capacitor, Regulator Rectifier, Ignition Coil that were taken off a running bike plugged and played did not solve problem. (I have not replaced the wiring harness with the one I bought) Whats your thoughts on what to test next? I've probably missed things I've checked at this point. My thought is to start back at the beginning this thing is really exhausting my patience. Anyone think I need to buy a new Regulator Rectifier based on the 12V-13V output. I've spent about 500$ on parts so far and hate to keep buying more if not needed. Thanks in advance!
  17. So when I'm riding my '98 200M/XC nothing seems wrong until you hit the powerband in 3rd and 4th gear. It seems like the engine is hitting a rev limiter, it's going full throttle and then dies and then back to full and dies. But as soon as it gets out of 3rd and 4th and I go into 5th, 6th, 2nd, or 1st, it's perfectly fine. Does anyone know what's causing this?
  18. I'm having an issue with my 2000 Honda XR400R, specifically the tail/brake light bulb #1157. My brake light works but my tail light doesn't. I flipped the index pins around and put it back in the socket but it had the reverse effect causing the tail light to come on but not the brake light. I also believe that only the thick wire filament is lighting up. Let me know if y'all have had similar problems and how I can fix it. Ideally the simplest cheapest way. Thanks.
  19. I have a 2008 ktm 250sxf and I'm having a lot of problems with it. I missed yesterday's race because it wouldn't run right. It's idling really rough. Every few kicks it will back fire really loud when I get it to run it will idle rough and when I give it gas it will bog then when I release the gas it will rev high and is hard to come down. I will give it the smallest bit of throttle and it will stick at a really high idle and I have to rev it hard and quick a few times for it to come back down. When I put it in gear and try to ride it slowly it just tries to take off and it doesn't even feel like a high idle. I have to ride the front and rear breaks for it to not take off. I can let off the throttle and put it up to 6th gear and it still keeps going. I just had the entire top end replaced. Cylinder piston rings etc. I cleaned the carb several times cleaned all of the jets and still nothing. Replaced the throttle cable even disconnected it and still nothing. If I disconnect the throttle positioning sensor it runs a little better but is still pretty rough. I used a multimeter to test the tps and it seems fine other than when it's at "idle" it's at 1.14 on 20k I give it a little gas and it sticks at 1.17 until I rev it hard a few times. No idea what it could be. Needle and seat seem fine I'm stumped on it. Please help!
  20. Hey guys, Backstory: 2010 RMZ 250, bike always ran and shifted great, no false neutrals, everything was fine and good serviced. Did another rebuild recently (3rd one so far). New Rod and athena 290 bigbore kit this time. Gearbox looked fine upon inspection. Bike started, ran and shifted great after rebuild. So, here's the problem now: after a few laps, the bike started sputtering and clonking in 4th gear and only in 4th gear. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th had no issues at all. The sputtering felt like a fuel problem, it just won't rev up. When i was trying to figure out what was wrong, the transmission locked up in 4th gear on the bike stand. Sure enough i ripped the whole engine apart again and found a broken shift fork (the one for the 5th gear). Everything else seemed good. So i installed a new shift fork and inspected the other parts. Bike starts, shifts smooth and sounds good. Rolling in all gears is no problem. But again, the 4th gear sputters under load. And that's where i am now. Going to open the engine again. But maybe somebody has an idea what's causing my problem. Seems to make no sense to me. Mike
  21. Bought new in 1997, my Suzuki DR650 motorcycle in 2014, with 20500 Km on the clock experienced unpredictable catastrophic 3 rd gear disintegration. Eventually in December 2016 the Small Claims Court of South Africa, with Suzuki Auto South Africa defending,the court awarded me my damages claim for the repair of my Suzuki motorcycle. For more details visit www.harryterezakis.blogspot.com
  22. Hello, I feel like I have read all the tips and tricks on the spongey/springy KTM front brake. I've got an 05 250 EXC and last summer I lost my rear brake during a ride, so I decided to do some maintenance this winter on both front and rear. Rear brake went smooth, new pads, rebuild kit on mc and caliper, fresh fluid, new lever bearings. Rear brakes now work great, but the front brakes are spongey/springy. I've tried just about everything from zip-tie to tapping on the caliper when bleeding, back bleeding with a syringe and traditional bleeding. What I am noticing now is, my lever gradually gets firm as it is pulled in but can still pull to the bar and never gets solid (the adjustment is all the way in so there is no free play), what I am seeing and hearing is the caliper kind of creak and flex. Note that this is just in the shop, not during movement. I've never had issues with bleeding brakes and I am 90% sure there is no air in the system. I'm about to the point of getting on ebay and getting a Nissin MC. Any suggestions on what to try before I try a Nissin? I'm not sure how I still have hair! Thanks!
  23. Hey guys, it's been about 3 months since I bought my new yamaha yz450f and today it has about 21 hours of use. Now, the other day climbing a dune the motorcycle began to make a strange noise only when the motorcycle runs in the 4th gear (in the rest of the gears it does not happen) everything indicates that the gear of the 4th gear was broken or that He moved. Did anyone else happen to this or just me? The motorcycle has only 21 hours incredible that a 0km motorcycle breaks the transmission only climbing in dunes. What do you think it could be? What should I do in this situation? Change brand and buy Honda or Kawasaki? I do not know. I am very disgusted and frustrated with the brand for now and with this happening on a completely new motorcycle. I await your fellow responses. Thank you
  24. Need help with my 03 Honda cr 250r... The bike takes a while to idle down to normal after letting go of the throttle, especially after riding with WOT and I press the clutch the rpms don't seem to go down until I come to a complete stop which seem really weird to me. Otherwise the bike runs great and the rpms drops normally when reving at idle. I have a FMF pipe and vforce 3 reeds. Main jet is 400 and the pilot jet is 40. What do you guys think could be the issue? I have tried adjusting the airscrew, cleaning the carb, checking float level, changing throttle cable, changing the sparkplug which had a good colour, it did not look like it was running too lean. So now I don't know what I should be looking at next. Maby a airleak? crankseals? exhaust gasket? what do you guys think?
  25. So I have a 2013 KTM 85 sx and it is refusing to be kickstarted. The other day I checked the plug and it was pretty black so I ordered some more. But whenever I try to kick the bike over it sometimes makes a weird pop or a lot of pressure coming out of the pipe. Does it need a new top end? It bump-starts but bogs down and wants to shut off. Please help
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