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Found 61 results

  1. I would like to preface this by saying that this might be somewhat of a rookie question, but never the less I am in search of answers. For some time now I have noticed that the front brake on my 2003 450 EXC has been fairly squeaky when coming to stops, even though I have hardly put any miles on the bike since I installed new pads several months ago. Upon closer inspection to the front caliper I noticed that the outside stationary brake pad does not appear to clear the thin channel located at the top of the brake pad for the rotor to pass through (picture provided). I would also like to add that I have an extra front caliper for my model KTM that also appears to have the same "issue", and this caliper is also the one I will be posting photos of, instead of the one currently mounted on the bike. So, is it possible that this is the source of the banshee screech my front brake seems to emit whilst coming to a stop? If so, does anyone know of any fixes for this issue, or is it something that I just shouldn't be worrying about? As a final side note, the only direct, let's call it, "performance" issue I have noticed is that my front brake is unable to keep the front wheel locked whenever I attempt to do burnouts. I could basically be squeezing the lever so hard that I feel like it's going to snap off in my hand, and the front wheel will either slowly roll, or sightly hop. Thanks to all in advance for any help or wisdom given, it is very much appreciated.
  2. Today I decided to clean the carburator of my crf250r 2005. It was my second time doing it. When I opened up the top of the carburator to remove the slide, I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and I still slid the slide out, but the control arm is now stuck. This video explain what I should have done at about 1:00. The only difference is I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and now the control arm is sutck up and I can't slide it back down with the slide. I was still able to remove the slide. Anyone knows how to fix this? I can't acces the throttle shaft screw anymore since the control arm is stuck up.
  3. Got a 2005 DR-Z400S with only 2500miles on it a couple of days ago. It's in really good condition appearance wise and runs fine for the most part, has supposedly been sitting barely used for a few years. Will run fine for several miles at a time, but will suddenly begin surging and stuttering, as if throttle is cutting out momentarily, then if I release the throttle the engine usually just dies and refuses to start up without dying again within a few seconds. If it's sitting idle at the time the problem occurs, I can hear the engine begin to drop revs and sound less consistent, then it usually dies after about 10 seconds even if I try to keep the revs high. While this is going on the throttle also feels less responsive. If I then just wait at the side of the road for about 5 minutes, it'll usually then start right up first time and I'll be on my way for another couple of miles until it happens again. The distance I've managed between compulsory stops has varied between about one mile and ten miles. It's happened when the bike's idle and when I've been doing 70mph on the motorway, which was great fun. Any thoughts on what the culprit could be? Thanks a lot
  4. Hi all, I have a 2004 kx 250 2 stroke and it wont start. it only backfires. I was out riding it one day and came up to a stop so the bike was just idling and it started to try and die so i revved it up a few times then let it die and now it wont start back up. It only pops or backfires when you kick it. Its getting good spark and i just put a brand new plug and coil in it. I took the reeds apart and they look like they're brand new. It was running great before so i dont know what happened. Im thinking it could be a fuel problem even tho the plug is a little wet if you take it out after a bunch of kicking. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks
  5. Hello Thumpertalk Community, My First Post here and i'm going to start with a Big one... for me at least. On my 2005 XR650r wich is an ED Type i guess? (Bought in Germany i think(2nd Owner)) My Stock Stator somehow broke after long investigations a specialized company found out that one of the Coils wich is responsible for the Ignition is broken. Repairing would've cost me about 300€ (~280$ i guess?) and a compleatly new OEM would've cost me 600€ wich is why i bought a RickyStator from Xr'sOnly after a good month the stator arrived (due to customs) and as i Wanted to Replace the old one i noticed a big problem: The OEM Stator has wiring wich looks like this: A multi caple Plug with 5 Cables in it. 2 Cables for the ignition. The RickyStator one Looks like this: 8-10 Loose Cables of wich 2 where in a MultiCable Plug Ignition Cables are Known Dosn't fit but i got a question Would the Bike run if i only run the Ignition Cables? Does every cable have to do 1 exact "job" or are the rest of those wich arn't igniton cables only for supplying the rest of the bike with the 12 Volts? Anyone had the same or similar Problem? Pliz halp am only good with mechanical problems not with electrical stuff Thank you in Advance i guess
  6. TORE_BACK

    2016 150sx gearbox problem

    Hello, 2016 ktm 150sx. I am the only owner and have less than 20hr on this bike. It developed a shifting problem. It will not stay in gear, jumps around in and out of all the gears, running or not. I pulled it out of the shop yesterday pushed it up to the another building leaned it aganst the wall. came back to move it and it was in gear. The shifter feels real simmilar to a small kids quad. where all the gear shifts are one direction, and even though you shift down to first gear you can still just keep clicing it down all day long (if you follow what I mean by that. it does not hit a floor once you are in 1st like any other 1 down 5 up tranny). I have found and downloaded the manual. I could find the link if anyone needs it, but nice guy 10 dollar donation and instant access to 100's of ktm service manuals. Anyways i found the time to start tearing it down, but thought it would be best to see if anyone has had or seen a similar issue be for I start.
  7. Im having a problem with my jetting and have been trying to fix it for weeks. I have a 13 250sx that was just rebuilt top and bottom. I can't figure out what it is, it sounds lean in the bottom and when you rev it it'll reach power band no bog but when you let off it sounds as if its starving for gas (takes a little to get back to idle). Ive tried playing around with pilot jets I went from a 45 all the way up to 50 but that was too rich and the problem didnt go away so I went back down to a 48 and it still did it but was fine reaching rpms. Another Lean hint is that it is extremely pingy almost like the pipe is leaking but I checked placement and for leaks and found nothing. I tried needle clip position as well but that never helped. If you know anything about this leave it here! Thanks, Matt
  8. So my 125 is bogging so much that is stalls when riding. It can be fine for a small amount of time, maybe half a lap but thats it, its fine when on the stand no bog at all. I took apart the top end today as I've read it could be the power valve, the bike has 4 laps on the new top end. The Z adjustment is out by 4mm, although it was perfect when rebuild was done. But the connecting rod won't move in order to adjust the Z measurement. I undone the screw the red arrow is pointing to and then moved the adjuster the blue arrow is pointing to but the rod does not move. Any advice?
  9. I replaced my throttle tube and started up the bike, it idles fine but as soon as I give it even the least amount of throttle it stalls out immediately. How do I make the adjustments to fix this, starting from the top and then if needed going to the carb. Thanks.
  10. WR2FIFTY

    WR250f splutters.

    i have recently picked myself up a wr250f 2004 and seems to have an electrical problem. rode fine when i got it after about 30 mins into the ride it seem to splutter in the lower rev range or when engine was loaded up seem to clear up in high revs (not much engine load). after a few more minutes bike started to be impossible to ride back firing and just bogging right down till it stalls. done the normal checks cleaned carb, new fuel, checked spark, checked air filter ect. at this point it would idle quite rough and noticed would stall when high beams are on (lights are on when bike is running all the time). checked voltage from battery it was sitting at 7.5v and when bike is running drops to 6.4v. I jumped it using a car battery and idled perfectly and revved just fine. i charged the battery up and managed to bring it back to 12.6v. tested voltage again and seem to not be charging at idle revved it up to about 3000rpm and nothing happened straight away then seem to jump up to 13.1v so i assumed the charging system was okay and it was just a flat battery causing my issue. went for a ride approx 6kms or so and ran good. votage stayed at 12.6v with bike off. next day took it out for a slightly longer ride and started to splutter again. turned around and got half way home until bike was once again unridable. voltaged seem to be at 12.5v. i am pretty comfortable working on cars but very knew to bikes. so my thoughts is that bike is some how not giving the ignition system enough power to run correctly. cutting spark in and out causing it to bog and back fire? my understanding is that the stator generates ac power to power the lights and ignition system and charge battery (once converted to dc). if the stator is at fault would my lights not cut in and out also? sorry for the long post just trying to get some insight from people with more experience or maybe someone has had this problem before. done a little bit of research but couldnt fine to much.
  11. Ronathan Etseinburg

    1986 XR250R no spark

    Hi i'm new to the community and i'm having a lot of trouble with getting spark on my recently purchased 1986 xr250r. I've been trying to get spark for a while now I bought a new ignition coil and cdi box but nothing seems to make a difference. The problem is that when the CDI box is grounded to the frame or engine all of the volts go strait to ground, and nothing comes out of the CDI box to the ignition coil. When the ground is detached I get power through the ignition coil but not enough for spark. I've disconnected everything except the components used to get spark, no kill switch, no lights. The bike was converted to be road legal. I'm using a brand new DPR9Z spark plug. this is the CDI unit i'm using: https://www.ebay.com/itm/XR200R-XR250R-OEM-Replacement-CDI-Ignition-Box-for-Honda-XR-200R-250R-1985-2003/163036202797?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 This is the ignition coil i'm using: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192799361454?ViewItem=&vxp=mtr&item=192799361454 Thank you in advance for any help you provide!
  12. prob a stupid topic but I'm interested to know more about it. I 100% always use Shell stations...no reason in particular. ...lately, when filling up, the pump won't automatically stop. I will end up over flowing. This has never happened to me up until recently, I usually always use the auto stop. Today it happened I had to tip the bike over to spill some gas out, I did use the reserve and it was getting pretty low. Not sure if my bike tells the pump to stop or if its the pump thats broken.
  13. Hey legends, So after successfully rebuilding my 2003 WR450F (Bottom and top end) with an 06 crank and flywheel upgrade as well as a 480CC Athena big bore...Everything was going well... On my 5th or 6th ride, the motor was well worn in and everything was running strong...I was out riding with mates when I noticed 5th gear start jumping in and out...It got worse and worse till the point where I did not use 5th gear anymore...At first i thought it might be the clutch but its only in 5th gear it does it .. :/ I did a little research and some people think ive damaged something inside the gearbox... Can someone help me out on exactly what I need to do to get this fixed? I really don't want to have to disassemble the engine again :'( Please help Thanks Ben @grayracer513 Can you help at all??
  14. I have a 2018.5 450sxf with roughly 50 hours on it. I was riding today and it randomly shut off. Started it back up and both my map switch lights were on and it wouldn’t let me change them. Rode it back to the truck, turned it off then started it again. Map switch lights were fine but my FI light was flashing. It just flashes on and off and I can’t seem to find anything In the book about it. Any ideas ?
  15. Hey Thumpers, I took the Carby off to replace the AP diaphragm and the Main Jet....Reassembled the Carby to the engine , attempted to kick the bike but the lever is stuck in the upright position and won't kick downwards. I took the right side case off on the Clutch side and noticed two teeth missing from the Primary gear and a couple from the Idler gear. Needless to say i found two of the teeth belonging to the Primary gear, proceeded to take the left casing off on the Stator side and noticed some metal particles pasted on the Pickup magnet. I cleaned that off , found no foreign objects on the Stator side, reconnected the kickstart lever on the lever shaft just to see if it freed up, by my surprise i was able to kick and turn over the engine like it should....BTW the spark plug was removed before to ease the compression. After all of that i felt a bit relieved and placed the left and right side casings back on . Refitted the Gas tank, kicked her and she started right up. Took her around the gap and CLAX! that bike cuts out and the kick start lever is stuck again. I was able to put the bike in neutral and walked her home , i can shift all through the gears like normal. Click the link below to view the video. Stuck Kick Lever Hope you guys can shed some light on where to look.
  16. Hi all, I have a 2004 Kawasaki kx250 that died suddenly on me the other day. all i can get it to do is backfire every once in awhile. Tested the resistance and everything of the magneto and stator with a multi-meter and all is good. Coil is new oem Kawasaki the reeds are brand new vforce and the top end and carb have been completely rebuilt. key on crank is intact and all the timing marks are lined up. I hooked a timing light to it and spun the motor over really fast and found that it is sparking way to late. The service manual says that it is supposed to fire 14 degrees before TDC but it is sparking way after TDC. Im thinking its a fried CDI box since its the only thing i wasnt able to check. Any help would be appreciated Thanks
  17. Long story short, my KX has been acting up lately, it seems like the jetting is constantly changing and will run lean even if i have the air screw in tight enough to foul a plug. Sometimes it runs perfectly fine, usually trail riding, but typically when I'm hill climbing or riding very hard i will get the idle surge when i let off the throttle. This makes me want to turn the air screw in to avoid a shattered piston from running lean but its not really solving the issue. Last weekend I raced and it ran great for the first 2 minutes, got the holeshot, then it just kept bogging, putting and popping until it died and did not want to start again. The one cover for the actuator rod for the powervalve was loose which i could not tighten without taking the cylinder off, could air be getting into the ratio from there even though exhaust was coming out? Also, this piston has a ton of hours on it. Someone recommended replacing the rings, as they could be worn and not keeping a great seal on the engine. Should i replace the rings, tighten the cover for the powervalve actuator, clean the carb and put it all back together or throw a new piston on now? I wanted to race this weekend which probably wont happen if I'm doing the top end rebuild. Also, if the top end is recommended, where do i start? the cylinder looks fine, do I have to get a (very slightly) bigger piston to make up for the worn cylinder edges? How do I know what piston to get and how do I know what size base gasket to replace it with? Any tips, thoughts, recommendations would be great thanks!
  18. Huskyfe501

    Fe 501 Idle Problems Help!

    I have a 2018 Fe 501 with only about 60 Miles on it. I noticed today that at idle, if I blip the throttle quickly and then let off the engine will either bog down or die completely. I thought it may be related to the JD tuner I had just installed last night, but I unplugged the tuner and it is still doing it. Has anyone else had this issue? Please help!
  19. So when I'm riding my '98 200M/XC nothing seems wrong until you hit the powerband in 3rd and 4th gear. It seems like the engine is hitting a rev limiter, it's going full throttle and then dies and then back to full and dies. But as soon as it gets out of 3rd and 4th and I go into 5th, 6th, 2nd, or 1st, it's perfectly fine. Does anyone know what's causing this?
  20. Hey guys, I went to see this 625 SXC LC4 whis is sold in a good price but the condition is not that good. I recorded the engine sound so that possibly experienced owners can recognize any engine problems such as camshaft bearing failure etc. I appreciate any input...
  21. Boshwa

    DRZ won't Downshift

    Pulling into work today my bike stopped being able to downshift. I tried to downshift from third to second and the shifter didn't come back up (it stuck down) so I tried up shifting instead and it worked. It shifted flawlessly all the way up into 5th, but now won't downshift. Things that might help speed the conversation along... - The bike is running fine otherwise and not making any strange noises. - Rolling forward and back doesn't change anything - Pushing in and out on the lever while trying to downshift does nothing. - The lever swings down freely, all the way to the frame, and is returning to its rest position. There is just not the usual click of the gears changing. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  22. dropped the bike doing a dirt donut, Pretty sure I broke a pin on the change drum /gear holder star thing (and 1 week from my Friday the 13th DMV test that I need this bike for) but found a pin in the oil pan when I was trying removing the gear changer face plate. couldn't remove the plate because I realized you need to get the chain and sprocket out of the way since I don't have tools for either of those things I was wondering if I could get away with EITHER removing the sprocket OR the chain ...to save money. if not I guess ill just have to buy $400 impact wrench + a $200 master link revet tool.
  23. Hey guys, Backstory: 2010 RMZ 250, bike always ran and shifted great, no false neutrals, everything was fine and good serviced. Did another rebuild recently (3rd one so far). New Rod and athena 290 bigbore kit this time. Gearbox looked fine upon inspection. Bike started, ran and shifted great after rebuild. So, here's the problem now: after a few laps, the bike started sputtering and clonking in 4th gear and only in 4th gear. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th had no issues at all. The sputtering felt like a fuel problem, it just won't rev up. When i was trying to figure out what was wrong, the transmission locked up in 4th gear on the bike stand. Sure enough i ripped the whole engine apart again and found a broken shift fork (the one for the 5th gear). Everything else seemed good. So i installed a new shift fork and inspected the other parts. Bike starts, shifts smooth and sounds good. Rolling in all gears is no problem. But again, the 4th gear sputters under load. And that's where i am now. Going to open the engine again. But maybe somebody has an idea what's causing my problem. Seems to make no sense to me. Mike
  24. I recently replaced water pump and seal after I noticed that my '02 CRF450R was spilling coolant on easy trail rides. After the water pump swap (which was successful), I noticed the same problem. It's interesting - the bike only spits coolant (I mean a LOT of coolant) after passing anything above 1/2 throttle. The bike makes this weird 'gurgling' noise, like trying to suck through a straw when your glass is almost empty. This is weird because I properly bled/ burped the radiators with coolant, and filled them to normal operating levels. The coolant spills through overflow hose. anyways - I swapped the radiator because I thought maybe the bike was running hot. I purchased oversized radiators, bought a 1.6 radiator cap (with a temp gauge) and bought engine ice. The bike runs very very cool - the temp gauge allows me to see this. Still, the bike shoots coolant out of the overflow after going above half throttle, making the same weird gurgling noise when it does. Bike has all of its power, top end was replaced not too long ago. I'm lost and don't know what is wrong with the cooling system in my bike. How do I make the bike stop shooting out coolant, and stop making the weird gurgle noise??? Any advice would help me!!! Thank you!
  25. quasimoody

    Honda XR400R Light Problem

    I'm having an issue with my 2000 Honda XR400R, specifically the tail/brake light bulb #1157. My brake light works but my tail light doesn't. I flipped the index pins around and put it back in the socket but it had the reverse effect causing the tail light to come on but not the brake light. I also believe that only the thick wire filament is lighting up. Let me know if y'all have had similar problems and how I can fix it. Ideally the simplest cheapest way. Thanks.
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