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Found 51 results

  1. So, I'm new to this and dirt bikes in general. I did small engine repair in high school, so I'm not full on retarded in that respect. But I digress. My dad recently have me a 1980 Honda XL250s Dual sport bike. It's got the 6v system, and goofy 23" wheel. When I got it, it had sat for a couple years, but nonetheless, I had it running in no time. Then a month later, it was fine tuned with the correct filter, carb rebuild, etc. So it runs fine, no problems there. So now I'm onto electrical; blinkers, horn, things to make it road legal. So after I bought a brand new 6v battery, charged it, I was going through the lights. Headlight runs off stator, so that's fine, tail light runs off both, that's fine, turn signal switches are good, but lights stay solid. Horn switch doesn't work, but I haven't tested the horn itself. Most instrument lights work, but there may be an issue because I used LEDs for that, and when I hit the turn signal, the light comes on, but shuts off neutral light. Today I got all 4 signals to light up, after I grounded the rear lights. But now they don't come on with just the switch on. Only when the bike runs. And I'm only getting 3v at the battery when it's running. I feel like I just made it worse when I "fixed" the rear turn signals. And to make things worse, my 6v trickle charger doesn't work anymore.
  2. Hi guys, new to the forum! Making an account here however i've done some reading here before. I need some help with getting my dirtbike running. I am very frustrated with it as i haven't had the chance to even enjoy it since ive bought it. I've had maybe two good runs on it. Anyways here is the background: 2001 KX 250 2 stroke, Fully rebuilt top end and bottom end done by local garage. After the rebuild the bike was running pretty good. However I have had a issue with it losing spark. Took it for a good spin one day and the bike lost power suddenly and died. I started troubleshooting it, and found that it had no spark. So i went ahead and checked everything out and found out the new stator that the garage installed on it either developed a short or some type of issue. I checked it with my multimeter and proved that it indeed was faulty even though it looked new. So i threw the original stator that i had for the bike back in it and the bike had spark again. Yesterday, I filled it up with mixed fuel and had it running. Bike started fine and everything seemed good, however about 5 minutes after it warmed up it died. I checked the plug and it was full of fuel. So i was thinking it just flooded itself and no big deal. I then went and put a new spark plug in it ( tried an iridium plug as i read online that they are suppose to be better ) , bike started up fine and I was impressed with it, however after about 5 minutes of trying to warm her up the bike started to act boggy and i could feel the bike trying to die, shortly after it died. I kept kicking it over for a while and no go. So i then troubleshot it again today and now theres no spark again. I am very disappointed as the issue seems to be back to square one. Anyone have any input or advice, im at a lost cause with the bike. It's like when it warms up she gets boggy then doesn't want to start any more. Also i found it strange that the brand new stator became faulty or damaged and now with the old stator i am no longer getting spark. I had the motor fully rebuilt with wisco parts because i was hoping to take care of the bike, however i can't seem to drive it! Much thanks for any input.
  3. My friend bought a brand new Yz450f and he said he started noticing a scratching sound coming from the front brake science day one. According to him, overtime his front brakes have gotten worse and worse. Currently the brake lever can almost touch the grips when you pull it making it feel "squishy" and it brakes pretty bad. I tried to help diagnose the problem but I don't know much about brakes. Any ideas of what it could be? Thanks in advance.
  4. Hi, I have a question about my xr250. Its having problems with the kickstarter and I came here to see if anyone had some insight. I was riding it the other day, and I use it for a sort of long commute so i was going 65-75 for about 30 min. The bike shut off, tires didn't lock up, but i pulled the clutch in and rolled off to the side. tried kicking it over but it was immediately locked. You can see in the picture where the kickstarter stops at. its completely dead locked at that point, no give at all. rolls in neutral still. brought it home, opened up the oil to check for anything strange but looks clean. as far as the bikes condition previously, it has an oil leak coming from the head, i think i did it the few months i had it. the sleeve that holds the exhaust into the head popped off, rode it like that for a few days before replacing the part. a week before this problem. I'm completely amateur to bikes, but i want to take a crack at it and get this thing fixed up. the oil level in the bike may have been slightly overfilled as well. i was topping off because of the leak. where would be the best place to begin here? Thanks for helping
  5. Carb has been cleaned, fuel is good. Plug is good, compression is good enough to run. Anybody got any ideas? YouTube link It won’t idle and won’t get over a certain rpm no matter the throttle
  6. My sons Rm85 is pouring out petrol all of a sudden. He thinks it's something to do with the jet. I know nothing about bikes and he is only 13 and isn't experienced enough to be taking it apart but I was just wondering if anyone could advise me what I should do?. Also I've noticed he never puts coolant in the water tank and just wanted to know if this is important and would have an effect on its performace? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks ?
  7. I got a question. I own a 2016 KX 85. It ran AMAZING after it first bought it used and was in beautiful condition and I picked it up for only 2500. I was riding when all of a sudden it started bogging down right before the power band.i don’t think it’s jetting because the bogging just turned on like a switch and it was running perfect before it. The bike was like that for a month. Apparently the previous owner never oiled the filter so it was dry as a rock and was falling apart and got sucked into to the intake so I’m guessing my power valve is gummed up or stuck close or open. I was riding one day with the bog issue and about 35 minutes of riding I shut it off to take a break. Came back 20 minutes later and it would not start.I changed the spark plug, cleaned out the carb,checked the reeds,and tried hill starting it but nothing. When ever I try to hill start it I can hear it trying to crank and It starts for like half a second but then dies.I don’t remember if I left the fuel petcock on but what I’m guessing is that I flooded the engine and tried starting which messed up my electronics.The reason why I think I flooded the Engine is because when I took off the reeds the intake manifold and reed were soaked in gas.I heard that starting the engine while flooded can mess with a woodruff key or your CDI or something. There is spark coming from the plug though.And yes I mix the gas with oil at 32:1 cause I’m in the pipe all the time.This is my first time owning a 2 stroke.Any answers or tips.
  8. Hello. I was putting the first ride on a new top end on my bike last Thursday. I landed an jump and my bike bogged out like it ran out of gas. I assumed it fouled the plug and went to change it. When I got to my car I took the plug out and it had great spark. I tore into it the next day. Everything in the carb seemed fine. I took the air filter off, still wouldn’t start. I checked to see if the reed valves were damaged, nope. I even took the exhaust off to see if it had somehow clogged. After all this I still can’t figure out what is wrong with it. I poured some gas down the spark plug hole and it still wouldn’t run. There is no reason why this bike shouldn’t run yet it won’t. Any and all help will be appreciated. My only guesses is there’s something up with the carb or there’s no spark under compression. I’m grasping at straws here.
  9. I recently picked up a 2004 cr85 with a fresh top end, v force reed petals, new crankshaft, and full gasket kit. I just installed a new air filter aswell. The bike seems to be in good running condition except for the fact that when it idles it will idle very high, but rarely it will idle normally by itself but usually i will have to let out the clutch slowly untill it almost dies then pull it back in quick then it will idle fine untill i hit the throttle again. Anybody know what the issue is??? Thanks
  10. Hi guys, a couple of weeks ago the electric starter on my 05 wr250f quit working after working like a charm for a couple of years without any issues. It still started pretty easy kicking it but I put a brand new battery in it to see if that would fix the electric start but that didn't do the trick. I'm decently handy at working on my bike but i don't want to start playing around with the electric start unit/other electrical components so i decided i want to take it to a shop to get fixed up. While its there I was going to ask them to rebuild the carb since its been sitting for a while and could use a rebuild/re-jetting. Anyways, i want to see if anyone else has had a shop do a carb rebuild and/or fix the electric start on their wr250f, and how much $$$ it cost. I'd like to have an idea of how much it cost for you guys so I can have a good gauge on how the shops will price the job. Any shared experiences will be appreciated!!! Thanks
  11. HI, I am new, looked on this forum but did not see a definite answer, I have a zongshen Bull 250 and one day I was riding and suddenly the bike lost all power and now will not rev more than half of max rpm, it acts like it has a rev limiter so low, and it pops and maybe smokes little black, i replaced the carb so it is not an issue there and then noticed after a day that it has low compression on the kickstarter and there is a sound in the air filter/box when i kick it over so i figured maybe a cam chain skipped a tooth and now the timing is off and intake is maybe open slightly so i am trying to adjust the valves but I cannot find the T mark, there are random letters like SM, and then there are 2 lines that match up with the marking on the crank case but no letter T for Top dead center. How are the markings on the cam sprocket supposed to sit relative to the T mark for Top dead center? .. I don"t know anymore where to start and what to do, can someone guide me through valve adjustment and what the clearences should be? I think the engine is CB250, it is air cooled and it is SOHC. THANK YOU!
  12. hey i just bought a 2017 300 xtrainer demo from dealer and the clutch wont engage. went to put it in first chattered a bunch and start going forward. i had to kill the bike.. i new to hydraulic clucthes and beta motorcycles.. could someone plz help me out wih some advice. thanx
  13. Hi ya I've got problems with my 12 Wr250r electrics .. it was stolen a while back now as I was having surgery on my knee and got an infection, so it wasn't insured or registered. It was locked up on my back verandah with a front disc lock ( background done) .. The mongrels had it for a few hours before returned to me by detectives just enough hours time to chop and destroy the ignition , front disc rotor and fuel cap .. finally I've replace the noticeable problems but I don't have right hand indicator hi beam light is on the dash ven though it works fine and the temperature light stays on the dash , the fan doesn't seem to come on which is a worry . I've tried to do a diagnostic on the dash but that doesn't seem to work ( so I'm thinking that's my problems) at $400 bucks to replace or take it to Yamaha dealer where I bought it is expensive as it's my main commute for work (yes m all good now so it's time to get a job) any ideas would be great
  14. Hey, I recently bought my friends 2011 KX250F (efi) because it won’t rev up past around 1/2 throttle without bogging while its under load, he couldn’t figure it out, even a small engine mechanic couldn’t figure it out. I’m just wondering if someone else has had this problem with the same bikes and what the problem was. Thanks!
  15. let me start off by saying, that i am a long time reader, but have never posted until today. I HAVE SEARCHED EXTENSIVELY. all over. i have done multiple fixes and changes. but, here we go... I road race in a mini bike series. kx65's are ultra popular and competitive due to their cheapness, speed and weight. I have a kx65, my frineds have kx65's, everyone has kx65's! lol My kx65 however seems to have no top end power. I can run lap times close to 2 seconds faster on our endurance bike (which i dont own), and I can always really feel the top end pull on it. Both bikes are modded exactly the same. except one runs race gas, mine does not. I have ridden other peoples kx65's and their bikes also make more top end power than mine does. What its doing is it feels like the top end just flattens out and tapers off right when it should be at peak power. It doesnt bog, it doesnt stutter, it just flattens out and makes no power where there should be 2-4k rpms of more power band. MODS MADE TO BIKE -wiseco 46.5mm piston (72cc), GENUINE keihin pwk28 carb - 132-148 main tested. float level set to factory specs, 42 pilot is golden, clip set to third position, off idle is beautiful, mid is great and will power wheelie shifting from first to second. vforce 3 carbon reeds. moose intake spacer, dent free factory expansion chamber, brand new pro circuit pipe. -crank, piston, and main bearings have 10 hours on them. rings have maybe 1 hour on them, plug color with WOT plug chops in fourth are kinda ehhh, not dark, but not light, but i can never jet it to the point of it being brown on the main jet. i have as of today ordered a 130 main jet to try even leaner settings...color largely remains the same no matter what, power is flatter with richer jetting things ive done to try and recitfy this issue -new crank seals, split case and resealed it, new piston rings, performed leak down test, held pressure except for at the plugs on the leak down tester. confirmed with soapy water... jetted and jetted and jetted. confirmed timing position. 120psi of compression on brand new rings...maybe they just hadnt seated yet?, new dent free expansion chamber, new head gasket, pit free head, confirmed squish at .65mm at all four corners. squish is however tighter right at the edge due to head gasket being slightly smaller due to 72cc piston (everyone else i race with is like this too though), what else...checked coolant system, no leaks, holds water over the course of a race weekend. last year i ran a grom, it was a pig, i wanted to get results and lap times like i had on my buddies 65, so i got a used clapped out 65 and built it. so here we are...makes great bottom and mid power, falls flat on the top, doesnt bog, doesnt stutter, and my gearing is a little bit shorter than some peoples. i get plenty of drive off of other riders on the corner, but they catch, pass me on the striaghts. when trying to pass people, i suck up on them on the brakes and in turns, then they leave me on the straight. its been half a season of me not getting results and im getting heavily annoyed... am i simply running out of my powerband and its being exacerbated by slightly shorter gearing? is my clutch slipping and making it feel like it doesnt build anymore power, but the motor isnt really increasing in revs...is my stator or coil going bad? who knows. im sure its engine related... any more ideas or questions and i will immediately respond because i sit at a desk all day at work, and have pretty much unlimited internet access... long post is looooonnnnngggggggg my neighbors are beginning to get pissed at me for screaming around all the time doing plug chops...
  16. I have a 2004 YZ250f. It has been running completely fine until one day it started high idling when in gear and has been very difficult to start when hot. I went through the carb and cleaned everything out very well, but in the process i lost the original setting on my fuel screw. So i bought the Tusk adjustable extended fuel screw and have been playing around with it and the idle adjustment to find the right balance, but with only a little luck. I can get it to idle right, but after riding for 30 minutes or so it starts to run like crap again. Basically, bike runs fine for a little riding then i turn it off on the trail and go to kick it again and it wont idle right. Gotta start the whole process over again to get it to idle. The idle is very inconsistent, one moment its right, the next it's not. Also now i have to give it a fair amount of throttle to start when its hot. This is the first 4 stroke I have owned so I am a beginner as far as this stuff goes. Any help would be appreciated.
  17. Hey, I'm a 15-year-old kid with some knowledge with engines. I spent all last year buying and selling snowmobiles but nothing major was ever needed. I just recently picked up a 1981 Yamaha Yt125h for $250. Very nice machine, plastic is mint, still had the original fuel lines. It ran when I picked it up from the guy, but not great. I took it home and fired it up, smoked wayyyy too much and had no power. Thinking it was the oiler I deleted it (I don't trust those things anyway) and made sure to cut the line going to the carb and plug both ends as well as the line from the oil tank to the pump. After draining the tank and filling it with mixed gas, rebuilding the carb, setting the air/fuel mix to factory spec (1 1/4 turns out), replacing all the fuel lines, replacing the plug, and checking for spark I pulled for about 10 minutes until it started. Smoked a little less but still had no power. I can pin it in 1st, 2nd, and sometimes 3rd, after that it bogs and dies. Even in the first 3 gears, it was a gutless turd. So I took the carb back off and went through it again, I also checked the reed valves which look almost new. I reassembled everything and got it started again (what a miracle) I sprayed some carb cleaner on the carb boot and the gasket between the reed valve and the engine while it was at idle; the idle did not change one bit so the gaskets are good. It feels like it has good compression for a little 125 but I'm not completely sure. It is just as hard to push-start as it is to pull-start. I'm thinking crank seals? I just want to know if I'm missing anything because I really don't want to split the cases. I have way too many projects and that seems like a lot could go wrong. Please help! I'm new to this forum thing by the way, let me know if I made any mistakes :)
  18. Hi, new around here I know this has been debated many times but I just can't seem to find a similar problem or a solution. My 2011 kx250f has had some difficulty firing up ever since I bought it. A lot of people say fi bikes are harder to start and I do start them with 3 smooth kicks before the big one, but it just refuses to start without the choke being pulled or when in gear, so i replaced the titanium valves (and they were out of spec) with some steel ones and placed some new shims, but I also measured the cam lobes and one of the intakes was slightly out of spec but I left it be. Still hard to start. Then I tuned the tps and now it starts better but hardly holds idle at first try. Now the real problem is: - After the bike fires up and is idling in neutral the revs aren't stable as they seem to drop a little and comeback (sometimes not). - I put in gear and start running but as soon as I pull the clutch and the revs drop, it stalls. Every time. This means that when I'm riding every single time I grab the clutch for more than 2 seconds, the bike dies. Could this be due to the camshaft? Checked every sensor and also checked the fuel injector and it seems to be pulverizing just fine.Can't be tilt sensor because it doesn't turn off when it's revving. Thanks.
  19. Hey guys, it's been about 3 months since I bought my new yamaha yz450f and today it has about 21 hours of use. Now, the other day climbing a dune the motorcycle began to make a strange noise only when the motorcycle runs in the 4th gear (in the rest of the gears it does not happen) everything indicates that the gear of the 4th gear was broken or that He moved. Did anyone else happen to this or just me? The motorcycle has only 21 hours incredible that a 0km motorcycle breaks the transmission only climbing in dunes. What do you think it could be? What should I do in this situation? Change brand and buy Honda or Kawasaki? I do not know. I am very disgusted and frustrated with the brand for now and with this happening on a completely new motorcycle. I await your fellow responses. Thank you
  20. My husqvarna tc 250 2011 start to loosing compression ..Yesterday i tried to start it 20 light kicks nothing .Later i came back tried 4 hard kicks to low compression and started normally.Bike runs fine its not smoking , no power loss nothing.Bike have around 50 moto hours after top end .Sometimes it have really big compression and after two kicks almost none.Maybe decompressor is stuck open or something i have no clue...Thanks for any advice
  21. I have a 2013 ktm 250sxf, sweet bike and all but whenever I go to do a wheelie/practice them ive been told by multiple different youtube videos to use the clutch pull it in and give it gas all in one motion. Well I go to do that in like 2nd gear and it doesn't even do that much justice as they made it sound in the video, like I could get up in the wheelie just as easy without the clutch. I have tried it in 3rd gear as well and same thing doesn't seem like the clutch is doing anything, and the bike runs perfectly fine as well. Any tips for the wheelies or suggestions to why this isnt working? It is a hydraulic clutch by the way so maybe that has something to do with it?
  22. I have a 1999 kx250 and I have had some trouble with spark plugs and power. I got the bike in a trade for a laptop but when I got the bike it was fully taken apart so I never got to see how it ran before. I put it all together to what I think is correct, this is my first 2 stroke but ive rebuilt street bikes before so I know a little about this stuff, anyways the bike runs but it has AWFUL mid range. By that I mean if I hold the throttle wide open it gets going well (nice bottom end power) but once it hits the mid it sounds strange and has a horrible time trying to reach upper rpm. Once it does reach the higher rpm the power band seems pretty okay. On top of all that I foul spark plugs after about 10 minutes of riding. I know it cant be the jetting because I have a fmf fatty with a pro circuit silencer. I went off the fmf website for the jetting for the 99 kx250 so I'm pretty sure its not that. I do happen to wonder if it is the powervalve, when I was rebuilding the engine (brand new top end) I noticed that the teeth on some of the valves were pretty stripped so it might be something with that? Maybe it gets stuck open or something? The weirdest part is right before the spark plug fouls, about the last 30 seconds of life from the plug, the bike behaves like how a 2 stroke should, crazy amounts of power and power wheelies from the powerband. Thanks for the help -your local kx guy
  23. Here’s what’s happening. The oil plug bolt top fell of so I couldn’t take it out but no oil was leaking. So I rode it for a while took a break and when I started it up it was making a weird hissing sound and netraul wasn’t working barely. It would still move in neutral very slowly unless I had the clutch in. The hissing sound continued throughout first second and third gear but once I hit fourth fifth and sixth it stopped. A little ways down the road I downshifted and the rear wheel locked up on me. The only way I could write it back was by starting it in six deer with the clutch in because neutral was not working anymore and I had to ride it back in six gear but it rode fine.
  24. I’ve got this 85 yz 250 with a odd rev problem, it starts and runs fine, good compression but when you Give it wide open throttle in newtral the bike will rev to around 5.5 k rpm like platow for a bit there, once you’ve waited a few seconds there for it to clear itself out until it reaches its max rev whatever it might be 7k rpm even happeneds when the bike is defenetly warmed up after a wide open pull. But it doesn’t bog at idle to 3k. The trotte response when riding seens normal. However i don’t feel that the motor is getting its full potential. Honestly I’m just confused on what’s goin on and i need some help
  25. I recently bought a Yamaha TTR 125. It has some problems, the bike does not idle and spills gas from the overflow in the carburetor. I've taken the carburetor apart several times to try and fix little thing that I believed where the problem. I was able to stop the overflow temporarily by adjust the float, but that started back up again but not nearly as bad. I still cant get the bike to idle and its very tough to start. I'm planning on buying a new carburetor but I wanted to see if there was anything anyone new I should try to get it to run. It also has another problem when it is running, shifting gears it seems to just skip gear 2 and 3, anyone know how to fix that?
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