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So I am currently working on a 1997 CR125 and plan to make a full race build on it. But I have been noticing that there are not very many aftermarket parts the biggest being the plastics and graphics for it due to the frame,tank,sub frame, etc. I was wondering if its possible to put that engine into a CR125 frame anywhere from 98-07 and how hard that would be to do. I have a welder but I am not confident enough to weld new motor mounts. If you guys could help me out with this that would be great.

Hey all, I just got myself a 1994 KDX200 as a bit of a project. The bike runs, but needs work. (When do they not!) I'd like to know the amount of interchangeability between the E gen (mine) and the H, because there are a lot more parts available for the H. Specifically with the radiators and their tubing, mine are shot. -Leo

so xt is my project bike, before everything i changed ingnition coil and then it was just standing in my garage becouse i didnt had time for it and yesterday i was working couple hours on it and i end up with great spark, cleaned carburator and everything was looking fine and today i went to test it and it started but runned poorly but i thing it was becouse badly working fuel valve then i went back to garage and started working on valve, valve is ok now but then when i tried to start it again and it wont start a chacked the spark and it is sparking like every 3rd kickstart and i tried everything kill switch, neutral switch i tried different spark plug and ignition coil from xt 600 but still same and the electricity going to ingnition coil is great

Sharing details of my project motorcycle, KTM 690 Tx3 1 Bike for Dirt, Street & Track. I used this forum to assist the conversion. Thought it could be helpful to post the Revzilla story link, vid, and mods list for reference: Revzilla Feature: https://bit.ly/3n1zchX Vid: https://bit.ly/32cHBa8 ModList: https://bit.ly/2I6KLFc Some photos of SM track, ADV, and MX mode.

Hey guys, I've had my 2019 RM-Z250 for about 6 weeks now and really like it! Did a little review write up in that section. Power is Awesome! Plenty of low end to pull me out of the corners with a strong mid-range and I'm pretty happy with the way it revs out....!! Not quite enough power (anywhere) to keep pace with the 450s which is most of my competition in the vet classes.... Hence, The Build!! Got 2 TX Winter series races (with my Sweet electrical tape #7, til MXGurl makes up some trick graphics) in to break things in and get a feel for the bike and where I need to go with our mods! I'm at 175 to 180 lbs in my street clothes. Vet A rider. Pretty fast (got a moto podium at LL17 on my '03 YZ125; 2 moto podiums at LL18 on my '17 250SX 50+) Started racing in '75 and have been testing bikes since '84. JM Racing did some suspension valving and re-springing to make it race worthy for my weight and nailed it!! Suspension is working awesome, a little fine tuning and it'll be Perfect! Bike was pretty stiff from the factory!! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Forks: We went from the stock .51 to .46. Tried .48s but the front end wouldn't settle in the corners for me, .46s hold it up and allow the bike stay in the corner. Shock: We went form the stock 5.3 to a 4.7. Everything heavier wouldn't allow for the enough Free Sag..... I'm at 104mm Race sag and 37mm Free sag right now. Bike has a nice balance now and JM lightened up the valving on the front quite a bit and a little on the rear. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Magazines were right about the stiffness, but missed the mark on the rest of the bike! Handles great and the power is super usable! I've always thought that the goal was to get around the track as fast as possible for several laps...??? The Suzuki does that Great!!

Dug this out of an old garage planning on fixing her up. I’m thinking it’s a ‘97 but not to sure any info could help with the parts.

Hey I have a 2003 DR-Z400s , unfortunately my cam spun and took out a journal. Engine is all apart, went to 3 machine shops, head is fubar. I need a complete running engine or someone who has had an unfortunate event crashing one that the engine is and the rider are in good shape. Cylinder head is wayyy to much. Or if someone wants a project, I would be open up to a deal. Thanks, any and all information and advice would be greatful.

So i'm doing a rebuild on my 1997 cr125 and the connecting rod has free play going side to side and up and down and I would like to know if i can just buy a new bearing for the rod or I if need to do a complete rebuild of the bottom end? Any help would be appreciated.

Does anybody have some jettingchart/map for 510 husqy, or any facts to help me adjust my carb.

If you’ve ever experienced a ride or race where your crankcases got damaged in some way, whether from a rock or engine failure you know just how painful dealing with the aftermath of damaged crankcases can be. For those of you who haven’t had to deal with crankcase issues, consider yourselves lucky and know that if you stay in motorsports long enough, your time will come. Late last year I picked up a 2005 Honda CRF250 project bike (click here to read about it) which came with crankcase damage. The crankcases had the following issues: Stripped right main bearing retainer bolt hole Broken off right front shift shaft boss/bore Partially broken off cam chain guide I chose to repair the crankcases because it can be a much more cost-effective solution than buying brand new cases. In this post, I’m going to cover crankcase repair options and tips that may help you save your next set of injured cases when the need arises. While you may or may not be equipped with a welder or feel comfortable carrying out the repairs, the information provided will be equally helpful when discussing repair options with your local welder or fab shop. Strength Considerations First off, since the crankcases house the heart of the engine, consideration should be made as to how structural the repair area is to the functionality of the engine. Secondly, the likelihood of making a repair that results in a joint that is equally strong to the original in critical areas should be considered. If the criticality of the joint is deemed too high or the repair is too difficult, then it is advisable to pursue a new set of cases instead of risking a mediocre repair that could jeopardize future operation. Many people often question whether or not a welded joint or the weld material is as strong as the base material used to manufacture the crankcases? The answer to this is, it depends. The specific casting process used to make the crankcases has a significant effect on how strong the cases are and whether or not the manufacturer chooses to heat treat the cases after casting them. The strength of the welded repair is only as good as the weld itself. Cleanliness, depth of penetration, and skill all play into how strong the repair will be. Most of these variables are relatively controllable; however, skill and experience are primary drivers. Since engineering data that outlines what materials and processes manufacturers’ use to make their crankcases isn’t available, it is impossible to say with any certainty that a weld repair will be as strong as the original material. However, it could also be stronger or weaker. We simply don’t know without testing or analysis. Personally, based on my knowledge of casting processes and how I believe most engine cases are made I don’t believe the alloys used to make weld repairs on crankcases differ significantly in properties from the base material. Repair Methods Outside of welding, there are a couple of other repair methods worth considering depending on the issue at hand. With proper preparation, epoxies (think JB Weld or equivalent) can be used to fix minor issues. For stripped threads, heli-coils or increasing the tapped size can be good options. Welder Types Both MIG and TIG welders can be set up to weld aluminum; however, in my experience, it is preferable to use a TIG welder because they offer significantly more control throughout the welding process. Due to the thick walls found in many crankcases using a welder with enough amperage is imperative. For most dirt bike applications a welder capable of at least 150 amps will be necessary. Welding Best Practices Preparing the Damaged Area - Since untreated aluminum oxidizes when exposed to oxygen, the area being repaired should be prepped by grinding away the surface layer in and around the joint. The material can be removed with a die grinder and an appropriately sized bur. Depending on the area and geometry of the repair it may be necessary to groove out the joint so that additional surface area and weld depth can be achieved. Check Flatness - Before welding, take the opportunity to assess the flatness of all the crankcase mating surfaces. This initial assessment will serve as a benchmark to compare against once all welding is complete. Cleanliness - The cleanliness of the area to be repaired is critical to the success of the job and to keep frustration levels low. Carefully clean the crankcases using isopropyl alcohol, acetone, or other suitable cleaners. Be sure to verify whatever cleaner you use will not emit harmful potentially life-threatening chemicals should you inadvertently expose them to high temperatures and argon gas. Brake cleaners are typically a no-no since they may contain Tetrachloroethylene which can become fumes of phosgene when exposed to high temps. Phosgene, even in small doses, can be lethal. If the crankcases are very porous, an initial cleaning can be performed to remove most of the oil. The cases can then be baked at around 250°F (121°C) for 15 minutes, which will help draw out oil from beneath the surface. The cases can be cleaned again. Filler Rod Choice - 4043 filler rod should work well for most castings and is what I used to carry out the repairs on my CRF250 crankcases. Alternatives to consider include 4047 and 4943. 4047 filler rod offers improved resistance to porosity over 4043 due to its higher silicon content but offers slightly less strength. 4943 filler rod was designed to be an improvement over 4043 and may offer additional strength while retaining similar flow characteristics. Preheat - Heating the crankcase in the oven and raising its temperature before welding will help reduce distortion post welding and make welding the part easier. Oven temps up to 300°F (149°C) and bake times up to 30 minutes can be used to preheat the crankcases. Limit Distortion - Distortion is a risk anytime something is welded and due to the criticality of the location of bearing bores, shafts, and other features found within the cases everything possible should be done to limit distortion throughout the welding process. What can be done will be situation dependent, but the following are recommendations that can be implemented when practical: Preheat the crankcases Make weld repairs with the case halves bolted together Clamp a single case half to a flat surface if the repair permits Leave bearings in their bores Check Flatness - Upon completion of all repairs, check mating surface flatness before returning the case to service. If mating surfaces are not flat corrections can be made on a surface plate or via milling in extreme cases. CRF250 Case Welding and Repair - My CRF250 cases welded well, and I was able to get proper fill with minimal porosity. The weld layers built nicely as I filled in the cam chain guide, shift shaft boss, and bearing retainer hole. Post welding I carefully machined in a new bearing retainer bore, and shift shaft bore. My case did not distort due to welding but had some knicks and dings on their mating surfaces, which I addressed using my surface plate and sandpaper. Upon completion of all the work, I inserted the dowel pins and shift shaft back in the cases and checked fitment of the shift shaft in the new bore. Everything lined up well, and the case halves and shaft mated perfectly. Wrap-up I hope you enjoyed this write-up on welding crankcases and that you consider it as an option the next time your cases incur life-threatening damage. I’m looking forward to moving my CRF250 project forward and taking the next steps to get my engine running. If you want more engine building knowledge at your fingertips, check out my books on two and four-stroke engine building. The dirt bike engine building handbooks are nearly 300 pages apiece and share a wealth of knowledge, such as repairing crankcases, which you won’t find in your service manual when it comes time to rebuild your engine. Check them out on our website or on Amazon. Thanks for reading and have a great week! - Paul

*This is my first time posting on any forum* About a month ago I bought an rm125 as a project bike and I was only givin a bill of sale. I rebuilt the bike but now I’m having trouble getting the ownership. The problem is that I can’t find where the bike was last registered or by who. I bought a vin checker to make sure it wasn’t stolen when I bought it, and it says it was last registered in 2018 at a U.S dmv but doesn’t tell me what state or by who because of the DPPA (Drivers Privacy Protection Act). When I bought the bike, the guy gave me a bill of sale from the guy who sold him the bike who allegedly was the last person to have registered it (sorry if that was a little confusing), but of course, I’ll never know because his phone is on dnd and he hasn’t responded to my texts or calls 😐. What can I even do at this point? Service Ontario has no record of it as it hasn’t been registered in Ontario, and being from the U.S Is it even possible to write an affidavit and get the ownership that way?

Looking to buy a water pump/ water pump shaft for my 1985 cr250r or a 500 2-stroke engine to engine swap it

Hi, here goes my first thread as well as my first post on here! Name is Matt. Been a reader for quite a while and have learned a ton from these forums. Anyways, i'm 24, and have liked motocross bikes since I was 6, my uncle was an mx rider here in the northeastern ohio and shoot mainly all over ohio (greg urban, 803, rode hondas say something if you know him lol) but ever since I was a young gun i was in love with bikes but never had one of my own, just a 90cc dinli 2 stroke quad my gramps got me in mansfield on the farm when i was about 12, lol! That thing and that farm are long gone, they didnt pay taxes and ended up gettin screwed for it, lost everything, all the toys, boats, quads, golf carts, had to sell it and move to somewhere much more affordable. My family isnt the smartest but theyre pretty cool. ANYWAYS. I am 24 now and just recently had the chance to grab a bike to work on, ive spent my live doing other things like skateboarding, going to school, working full time, moving in with a girl etc. So I just found a 1990 yz125 on offerup for 200 bucks. I was dead broke at the time paying court costs n whatnot but I pulled together 100 bucks and made a deal with the guy to pay him 50 a week for the rest, since I had practically nothing and had literally just started a new job. So he was down and we met up and I got the bike. (QUESTION: Can i post any sort of htm image codes so I can post these pics throughought the thread? Cause if so im gonna edit the heck out of this thread and make it way more organized.) I brought her home. The reason it was so cheap is because the crankshaft was seized. The piston is in good condition, the cyclinder as well, no scratching or chipping, leading me to believe the issue could be in the main crank bearing. The guy I bought it off of has been in close contact, i see him once a week or so and we talk bikes and about the parts i'll need and whatnot. So my next step is to grab my next paycheck, finish paying him and bring the engine back over, split it open with him, and see if its just the bearing or whole crank assembly. Either way, pretty stoked about the deal, and the piston and cylinder being in such great shape. Im gonna attatch the pics of the bike and the engine! The cylinder head is taken off as well as the pipe and kickstart but here she is. Any input is appreciated! This is my FIRST bike and if anyone has any pointers about working on 2 strokes this old, I would REALLY appreciate it! Thanks yall Also if anyone notices anything that I am not saying, please do say something! Or if there is anything super critical to check. I plan om getting a manual when I find one and literally checking every single thing that can be loosened and tightened on it. Matt

Hey guys I'm new to TT, I've been a member since 2011 and never really posted anything, anyway I remembered I was a member and wanted to share my bike build with you guys.. hopefully this is the right spot, if I'm wrong let me know! So anyway.. I got this 2005 yz250 off craigslist blown up... its a nice bike and has came with a couple different pipes and expansion chambers, a desert tank, and a good amount of aftermarket parts.. I tore into it and the crank rod bearings were completely square, so now shes sitting completely apart until Tuesday when my engine rebuild comes in.. hotrods crank and wiseco piston with all the gaskets and everything necessary to rebuild the engine. I will keep you guys updated with everything I do to the bike in this thread... I have graphics and a restyled plastic kit coming as well How she sat when I got her: Engine apart: Waiting for the engine: stayed tuned for more updates soon!!