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Found 20 results

  1. Hello, Can someone tell me the manufacturer part number for the Mikuni carburettor for a 1996 Yamaha PW 80? Failing that, a picture of the inscriptions on the side of the carb. Would be interested if anyone has an original, OEM one for sale. Thanks, Alan
  2. Hello friends, Here's a little video I shot of the whole crew of boys on bikes this past weekend. It's a hoot to ride with them all. We had a great time.
  3. Hi people. Looking for help on this bike i have just bought for my son. So i got it back and it was running ok-ish but only with the choke on. So i replaced the non-existent air filter, plug and transmission oil just as a matter of course. Then i took him on the track and realised the kill switch assembly which holds the throttle was broke and by this time it was being a pain to start and a bit of a pig to keep running because i had to leave ot on choke. Fast forward a week and after talking to a garage and doing lots of google searches(mainly brining up this site) i was convinced i had a dirty carb. Took the carb apart and the float had dents in it and it looked terrible so i went on ebay and ordered and aftermarket one and replaced the kill switch assembly. I also replaced the 2 stroke oil under the seat. Now the bike is back together and after starting the bike it just runs on full throttle, cant stop it. Also only with the choke on. Firstly i am a little worried as I am unsure whether the 2 stroke will have pumped through at this stage and do not want to seize it? Do these aftermarket carbs need setting up or do they come preset? If the former, how would i go about that? I also did not use the accelerator needle that came with the carb, i just put the Yamaha 1 straight back in and it seems to slide in and out with no problems. The throttle does not stick at all. I should also mention the bike starts with no problems at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated as i would like to get my lad back down on the track ASAP. Many thanks
  4. I have a 1999 (I think) I traded some kid a lawn mower for. When I got it he said it only needed a carburetor, but it needed much more. The entire intake was apart, and it looked like the clutch cover had also been off. Long story short, I ordered the parts I needed, and put them on, but when I tried to kick the bike over to start, it would only sputter once or twice and then die. The pw80 has a seperate oiling system, which is not typical for two strokes. I eliminated the problem to the oil pump, since I found out that there was no fuel line connected to the carburetor so the engine was only getting gas. I connected to line to where I think it belongs on the carburetor, but realized that the pump had no way of pumping oil since there must be something to drive it. On the end there is a little gear that goes into the clutch case, and I think that might drive it but I can't find anything the would connect to it. I am trying to figure out how to connect the oil pump so that it works. Any advice helps. Thank you.
  5. I stuck the GoPro on my 11 year old's helmet on our last group ride. We got some fun footage and I put together a little highlight video:
  6. I bought a pw80 (1999) and it starts and idles fine. The problem I am having is that as soon as I engage first gear it bogs down and dies half the time. The times it does not die the rpms will go up for about 2 seconds then they bog down again and the same with 2nd and 3rd gear. I just don't understand why it bogs out when I put it in gear. I have tried several things to remedy this with no luck. Here is what I have done: Removed oil injector, put a plug on the carb where it was injecting and put a cover over the case where the injector used to fit. new piston, new rings, new piston bearing and had the cylinder honed out changed the transmission oil twice cleaned the carb out multiple times pilot jet 15 main 130, also tried a 30 pilot jet, same resultes needle clip 2nd position new spark plug opened up air box took out the restricter ring on the exhaust header and gutted the stock tail pipe. I have searched this forum and found people with similar problems but none of the solutions worked for me. Im thinking maybe its the clutch. with taking out the ball bearings help it or is that specifically for shifting purposes only? Could it be timing? When in neutral I can get the rpms pretty high but it does have a slight cut out thats almost imperceptible. also if it is the timing do i need a compression tester? (I read the timing thread and still a bit confused on how spinning the stator will change the timing.) THanks for any comments that will help and no thanks to comments that are not helpful.
  7. I'll cut to the chase then give a little back story, 2000 pw 80 I need to know which rear wheel spacer I need, is there any way someone can measure or provide info on which spacer I have and which one I need. Okay so I got handed a basket case pw80 from my uncle, left outside for the last year or so, rear chain hub assembly exploded and they just never fixed it, so I get a water beaten, no air filter having sun faded carb looked like a seamen filled toilet. motor was seized, let it sit over night with magical oil and she broke free, quite easily honestly, tore the bike down to the frame and motor, and I'm currently going through it, ordered new carb, re lubed all cables, did a ghetto oil pump delete and ordered everything to make her a track worthy pitter. Shes coming along nicely for the second day of "working on it"
  8. so when i start it up its fine,then when i drive for alittle come to a stop put it in neutral it starts revving high.
  9. There is oil coming out the exhsaust, and it smokes a lot, can any give any ideas how to fix this.
  10. I threw down a hill climb challenge for the boys yesterday. They’ll get there...
  11. Hey there dudes and dudettes, Got me a pw80 to mess around with and I'm having a problem with it. It idles fine, runs in first pretty decent but as soon as it's shifted into 2nd the acceleration drops. It feels like I have a one speed bike. Any ideas what it could be? I have already done the clutch mod, i'm running 6 ball bearings instead of the standard 12. Thanks!
  12. I need a new front tire for my pw80 and a inner tube for the front and the back does anybody have any recommendations for tires and what size inner tubes should i get for the tires?
  13. Hi, I'm having trouble with the chain on my sons pw80, before he rides it it has a little bit of slack around 2to3cm of movement up and down. Then he ride's it for a while then when I check the chain it's tight as with very little slack. But when he turns the bike off and wheels it, backwards it will losing back up again. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks
  14. I got gifted a pw80 from my uncle, figured I would start a new topic and pick your guy's brains if I have any questions, I'm a few days in and almost ready for her initial kick after being left outside to die since it broke its rear wheel clutch hub about a year ago. It was uncovered drinking water with no air filter, carb was toast, motor was seized, and every bearing, cable and movement point was frozen. I have about 20 hours into it and she's going back together. I know its a mortal sin but I disconnected the oil injection system and plan to run her premix'd. I've heard 32.1 is okay, but I want to run her oil heavy first tank since I'm sure the internals might be a little...… unwilling to move after sitting for a while. 120 main is what I heard will make them run okay, I'm at about 150ft above sea level, and bought a aftermarket carb QA parts carb from RMATVMC
  15. This is the final video on the restoration of my sons custom 1983 PW50. In this video I use part of my old wiring harness connectors to connect the stator to my new wiring harness. I reassemble the bike by putting the carb, exhaust and plastic back together. I get it running and put a smile on my son's Face!. All worth it!. Leave a comment or question below. Like and share this video. SUBSCRIBE for future content. Thanks for watching!.
  16. Hi. I bought a Yamaha PW80 for my son (actually he bought it). It was relatively cheap and I thought everything on it is probably cheap to replace. Long before I expected it he is jumping it and the suspension is bottoming out. I was shocked when the bike shop told me it's high AU$300s for the rear suspension. There are aftermarket for AU$50 - AU$100 however I am very skeptical about the quality. Can anyone give me some advice please regarding a reliable aftermarket, whether there is a reconditioning kit, any other suggestions. I'm in Australia. Thanks Chris
  17. I just need some help. I rebuilt the top end on my wife’s step dads little pw80 and it didn’t have the hoe coming from the carb to the oil injection. Can I replace it with a hose or is it a specific thing I need? Also I’d love to just delete the oil injection but sadly he wants it to stay all original.
  18. Howdy dirt bike friends! Here's another short clip from our kids' group ride this past Saturday. We're loving these bikes and the AZ spring weather.
  19. Hey guys, I have a 2007 PW 80. I have drilled out the funnel in the pipe and removed the 3 stalk pipe from the top of the airbox. I have tuned the carb and the bike is running ok. However, it has oil constantly dripping from the baffle. Sometimes the plug condition ( see pics ) is telling me it is running lean other times it looks rich and it also runs on, when its hot. I notice that when you rap it on full noise then back off ( whilst riding) it bogs up and you have to rev it for a few seconds to burn the oil. Compression is at 100psi and carby is squeaky clean. Needle clip is in the 3rd position. Main jet is a 110. I am 700 metres above sea level. I'm thinking that the oil pump has a fault as i have adjusted according to manual. Or oil ring stuffed? or crank case seal? Is there a way to test if oil ring or crank case seal is rooted? Any feedback would be appreciated before i start pulling it apart. Thanks in advance!
  20. Bought this little tyke off FB marketplace for $400 not running, but with a rebuilt engine. He included all the old parts, which looked to be in good condition, except they looked rusty? He put all ebay parts on it: new jug, crank, bearings, seals, head, gaskets etc. After scouring the web for specs and measurements; I feel it is necessary to supply someone with my recipe of how I got to where I am right now. First things first: the bike started out completely OEM minus the oiler. So from here on out, ill be mixing my fuel 32:1. I have seen people go with less fuel, and while itll run damn good, its lifetime will go from 10+ years riding weekends, to 2 hot laps around a good track lol. Removed exhaust funnel (mine had a washer AND the funnel for some reason) removed the tiny S bend that connects the silencer to the main header. (I did this by using some 1/2" plumbing fittings welded together... ill try and get a pic of it. For the silencer; I use some 3/4" EMT tubing with a TON of holes drilled in it, slid through the center of the silencer and packed with MOOSE loose fiberglass) I really dont remember what I jetted it to; my local dealer only had a few jets that were close, and they seem to be working... I havent plug chopped it yet, but its already way faster than my TTR90, which used to outrun me. IN all honesty, I think its a 175 main. But I have heard of people tuning their bike by adjusting the oil content of the fuel. gave all the ports a very light chamfer, they started off razor sharp I plan on cutting the reed cage, just have not gotten to it. The previous owner removed some of the clutch balls so it engages later (higher rpm) but my clutches slip in 2nd and 3rd, maybe this is a side effect ill try swapping them out with my spare set that came with the bike. It started off with 120psi of compression, and is now at 180psi with the following mods: shaved .106" off of the top of the jug (A LOT!) which makes the piston hit the head... well, it hit my head, your maybe different. To extrapolate this a little: my squish zone was 4.5mm, and my target was 1.5mm to 1.7. NOTE: I removed a small amount before this whole escapade, but never recorded how much it was... I think it might have been .01-.015... not much... just go til the piston hits the head, and shim the jug up lol I cut some base gaskets from some gasket paper that measures .075mm (the stock gasket is .08mm in case you were wondering) I stacked i think 3 gaskets? The total jug gasket measures 1.355mm which raised my ports a little, and the brought the piston just far enough away so it doesnt hit anymore. Final squish zone is now 1.56mm (which is perfect IMO) rear sprocket is a used 35T from my ttr90. The front is a 14T. Factory gearing is 15/32 Front/rear. It has enough torque to pull a wheel with no pulling help. Sit still, lock your arms and gun it. Up she goes! I plan on changing the ratio to be more geared down for small tracks; seeing as the transmission ratio is WAAAYY too wide. Hope this helps someone. (machine I used to cut the head was a 1964 bridgeport knee mill, and a 4flute 3/4" carbide endmill, and I drilled a hole in some random aluminum plate I had lying around, beveled one side to fit the transfer port, slid it in through the exhaust port and bolted it to the table VIA a T-nut and a bolt. Bolted it, wiggle hard, tighten, wiggle, tighten until it wont go anywhere.... I was really worried about breaking this brittle casting. FWIW, I read through smacaroni's thorough displeasure with a tight cylinder gap only after I got mine all together. However, 1 thing I do remember is the piston is an egg from the factory by about 6 thou. (.006) HOWEVER! it does run, and has not locked up. When it first fires up in the afternoon (80F) you have to fiddle with the choke a bit, start rolling, turn the choke off, go from 0-100% throttle a few times before it starts to really run right. After shes warm, its all good.
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