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Found 37 results

  1. My oil cooling element for my 2000 big bear 400 has a crack in it. these things are so expensive to replace. This atv has sat for 15 years and there are a lot of expenses already in fixing it up. My question is, is there a way to fix it, weld, solder, ext. Do they make an epoxy. If you look at the pic you can see the pic at the bottom. Whats the best and easiest way to fix this. Please help
  2. I'm getting my bike ready to run a big chunk of the Oregon Backcountry Discovery Route (OBDR) this summer so I'm going through it adding things I think will help bulletproof the bike and maybe keep me from having "issues" when I'm 100 miles from nowhere in the middle of the desert in Eastern Oregon. What I hate is that since these products are made for such a niche market the prices are just ridiculous. So in that vein, here's another $89 worth of aluminum...sigh... One thing I've noticed online is that there is sometimes a lack of good clear pictures or videos on specific parts for the DR-Z, so I try to rectify that with my videos. (aka: I use a tripod as much as possible...lol...)
  3. This month I want to discuss three easy ways to improve engine cooling for your dirt bike or ATV and explain why they are effective. As improvements are made to an engine that increase its power, the amount of heat the engine will create will also increase. Effectively removing heat from the engine and cooling it is very important as the power output of the engine goes up. The cooler an engine runs, the more power it can produce. There are three ways that the aftermarket attempts to improve the cooling system of a particular engine. 1. Increase flow through the cooling system. 2. Increase the cooling capacity of the radiators. 3. Increase the pressure of the cooling system. Let's dive in. 1. Increase flow through the cooling system The flow through the cooling system can be increased by installing a water pump impeller and housing designed to increase the flow rate of the coolant, such as the Boyesen Supercooler. The reason increasing the flow rate of coolant works is because the rate of heat transfer from the engine to the cooling system is directly proportional to the mass flow rate of coolant. This is thermodynamics jargon, but there are two key parts to consider. First, how much coolant is flowing, and second, at what speed the coolant is flowing. The more coolant that flows and the faster it flows will reduce the temperature difference between the point where the coolant enters into the engine and where it exits. This next part is not quite as intuitive. When the temperature difference between the inlet and outlet is reduced, the average coolant temperature is lowered. When the average coolant temperature is lowered the engine will run cooler. This is why fitting a water pump, which increases the flow of coolant through the engine, improves cooling. Boyesen SuperCooler H2O Pump Impeller 2. Increase the cooling capacity of the radiators Radiators consist of a series of tubes and fins which run from the top to the bottom of the radiator. These are often referred to as the radiator’s cores. As coolant enters the radiator it moves through the series of tubes and heat is transferred from the coolant to the fins. Air passes over the fins and heat is transferred from the fins to the air. This transfer of heat from coolant to air is how radiators reduce the temperature of the coolant. Coolant temperatures can be reduced by upgrading radiators in three ways, by increasing the frontal area of the radiators, by making the radiators thicker, or by using materials with better heat transfer properties for the cores such as those by Fluidyne. For all practical purposes, increasing the radiators’ frontal area and improving the core materials is rarely a viable option for dirt bike applications. This is because there is little room for the radiators to begin with and they are susceptible to damage, making the use of expensive core materials a risky affair. Unfortunately, both of these options are better improvements to make before resorting to increasing the thickness of the radiators. Increasing the thickness of a radiator is not as efficient of an improvement as increasing the frontal area of the radiator. In order for thicker radiators to cool more effectively than their stock counterparts, airflow past the radiators is key. When the thickness of a radiator is increased, air must travel a greater distance through the radiator before exiting. The speed the air is traveling plays a big role in determining how quickly the air heats up as it moves through the radiator. If the air is not traveling fast enough through the radiator, the air temperature will rise and equal the coolant temperature before reaching the end of the radiator. Once this happens, heat transfer stops and whatever portion of the radiator remains will not help with cooling. In order for a thicker radiator to be effective, air must flow quickly enough through it so that the exiting air temperature is at, or better yet, below the coolant temperature. In conclusion, benefits from adding thicker radiators will be more prominent in applications where speeds are relatively high. Whereas in applications where the bike is hardly moving, improved cooling may not be noticeable. Fluidyne Oversized Radiators 3. Increase the pressure of the cooling system The last alteration to the cooling system that can be made is to install a high pressure radiator cap such as CV4. As coolant temperature increases, pressure increases inside the cooling system. The radiator cap is designed to be the pressure release point in the cooling system in the event that too much pressure builds up. This can occur as a result of overheating or a blown head gasket for example. By designing the radiator cap to be the weak link in the system, other parts of the system, such as seals, don’t end up getting damaged from being over pressurized. The radiator cap features a plug and spring on its underside. The spring is designed to compress once a certain pressure is reached, at which point the plug will move upwards and uncover a pressure release hole where excess pressure will be vented. CV4 High Pressure Radiator Cap The coolant’s boiling point and ability to conduct heat are necessary factors in understanding why a high pressure radiator cap can help improve engine cooling. Water alone boils at 212°F (100°C) while a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze boils at 223°F (106.1C). Radiator cap pressure designations are usually advertised in bar, with most stock radiator caps designed to withstand pressures up to 1.1 bar (16psi). The more pressure a fluid is under, the more difficult it becomes for the fluid to vaporize, and the higher its boiling point becomes. When water is under 1.1 bar of pressure, the temperature water will boil at is 260°F (127°C) while a 50/50 antifreeze mix will boil at 271°F (133°C). By installing a radiator cap designed to withstand higher pressures, an additional increase in the coolant’s boiling point will be seen. High pressure caps are usually designed to withstand 1.3 bar (19psi) of pressure. This 0.2 bar (3psi) increase in pressure over the stock system will increase the boiling point of water or antifreeze by 8.7°F (4.83°C). This will then bring the boiling point of pure water or a 50/50 antifreeze mix to approximately 269°F (132°C) and 280°F (138°C) respectively. While this small temperature increase alone won’t do a lot for your engine, coupling a high pressure cap and using coolants with better heat transfer properties can do wonders. Antifreeze (ethylene glycol) alone is not an inherently good conductor of heat. In fact, pure antifreeze conducts heat about half as well as water, while a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water conducts heat approximately three quarters as efficiently as pure water. This means a cooling system using a 50/50 mix of antifreeze would have to flow faster than a cooling system filled with pure distilled water in order to achieve the same cooling efficiency. What this means for you is significant cooling gains can be made by using distilled water and an additive called “Water Wetter” in place of an antifreeze-water mix. Water Wetter is an additive that improves water’s “wetting” abilities (another whole subject), adds corrosion resistance, and slightly increases the boiling point of water. A high pressure radiator cap in conjunction with distilled water and Water Wetter as the coolant is by far the best route to go for high performance applications where freezing is not an issue. For applications which must still be resistant to freezing, the antifreeze-water ratio can be altered in favor of mixtures incorporating more water than antifreeze so that the cooling efficiency of the mixture is improved. Just bear in mind the freezing point of the mixture as it is thinned with water will be reduced, so you will need to pay close attention to the environment you are operating in so that the coolant is never susceptible to freezing. A frozen coolant system can ruin an engine and makes for a very bad day! I hope you enjoyed this post on three easy ways to improve your engine’s cooling. Feel free to add your engine cooling tips, tricks & questions in the comments section below.
  4. Recently dropped my bike on the left side radiator where the fan is mounted. The fan quit immediately, and now doesn't come on when the bike gets hot. I've check the fuse and made sure the fan actually works by crossing the terminals on the temp switch mounted on the radiator. Any suggestions as to why it won't turn on by itself?
  5. So the radiator on my ‘05 yz85 is a little bent on the right side if you are looking at it from the front. The seller said that it wasn’t tied down well one time when he was transporting it and it fell over and hit another bike and bent it. This looks like it probably happened. I have heard of radiators being blocked or clogged or something along those lines, but basically coolant isn’t getting where it needs to be thus not cooling the engine properly and causing many issues. How do I tell if my radiator is working correctly?
  6. So the left side radiator is folded pretty good. Can I use the OEM radiator on the right side and swap out the left side with a different manufacture? Has anyone had any luck with the Outlaw radiators?
  7. Due to my Google feed pressuring me to pursue a vintage dirt bike project (Google wants what it wants...), I've decided to take my perfectly functional DRZ400E under the knife. I've got an old TS185 tank ready to go, and plans for a new subframe and seat. I know, blah blah blah. The issue I'm having is that the radiators are in the way; the old tank hits the top of the radiator. So I'm looking to: - replace the original radiators with smaller ones that allow for more clearance - or lower the existing radiators (with maybe a few brackets?) Has anyone had any success or ideas about which direction to take it? And needless to say, many will suggest (and rightfully so, mind you) that I should just leave it as it is. And you're right. But for arguments sake, let's say 'gun to my head' I have to do it. 🙂 What do the powers that be think?
  8. hey so i encountered a problem so i drained all the coolant, and checked the valves on the bike and it was all in clearance, put it all together filled up the coolant, fired up, let it sit in the garage for a bit noticed coolant leaked out the over flow and i went ahead and topped it off and let it sit for a while and i just looked at it there was what looked like probably most of the coolant that was in the bike on the floor anyone have any idea what i should do next? the store is closed so i can't buy anymore coolant atm i use engine ice.
  9. hello ppl. question: what are the proper ways to analyse if the head gasket is blown or not (without actual disassembly?) I have 2000 year WR400F (the small size tank version). recently I boiled the water, I have a radiator cap temp gauge 1.3 bar: it said, over 100 degree celsius, I heard the boiling water bubbling in the water tank at the back wheel, I immediately stopped and waited to cool to 50 celsius. (we have winter now, plus 2 degree almost freezing, but we had a HUGE amount of mud so the bike was hot) before that where I noticed the bubbling and stopped to cool, I probably made a mistake.. I wanted to "escape" from a total muddy field and forced the bike 1st gear high rev through mud for a few minutes :-( (must say the high rev back wheel in huge mud worked well, analog to aquaplaning, I was able to fly above the mud instead of wobbling side to side..) so, you know the questions. what can I check there. white smoke in exhaust? exactly what scenario and how? is it hard to kick when cold? sign of coolant water flooded engine? do I loose coolant after a short ride? mark the coolant level in small plastic trank with sharpie and compare? what to see in oil dipstick? bubbles? foam? etc? pls help us out with clever tips. THX!!!
  10. I recently replaced water pump and seal after I noticed that my '02 CRF450R was spilling coolant on easy trail rides. After the water pump swap (which was successful), I noticed the same problem. It's interesting - the bike only spits coolant (I mean a LOT of coolant) after passing anything above 1/2 throttle. The bike makes this weird 'gurgling' noise, like trying to suck through a straw when your glass is almost empty. This is weird because I properly bled/ burped the radiators with coolant, and filled them to normal operating levels. The coolant spills through overflow hose. anyways - I swapped the radiator because I thought maybe the bike was running hot. I purchased oversized radiators, bought a 1.6 radiator cap (with a temp gauge) and bought engine ice. The bike runs very very cool - the temp gauge allows me to see this. Still, the bike shoots coolant out of the overflow after going above half throttle, making the same weird gurgling noise when it does. Bike has all of its power, top end was replaced not too long ago. I'm lost and don't know what is wrong with the cooling system in my bike. How do I make the bike stop shooting out coolant, and stop making the weird gurgle noise??? Any advice would help me!!! Thank you!👍
  11. What is the normal operating temperature at the radiator on a KTM 500 EXC-F? I have a 2017. BACKGROUND I'm new to the KTM world and on the test ride I immediately noticed how hot it ran compared to my DRZ 400 and BMW R1200GS. I put this down to the emission parts. When I bought the bike, I removed those parts and: installed a Vortex ECU installed a radiator temperature sensor and connected it to my TrailTech dash replaced the muffler with a Q4 removed the intake reeds since I live in a hot climate, I also removed the radiator hose thermostat so that coolant runs through the radiator all the time Replaced factory coolant with EngineIce With ambient air temp at about 90 degrees F, and running 65MPH on city streets and also in stop-and-go traffic, I see that the temp at the radiator runs 185-210 or so. I can really feel the heat off of the engine on my body. I'd have thought that the removal of the EPA parts and with the other modifications to get more air in and exhaust out that it would be running cooler. I confirmed that the radiator fan does operate correctly - it's like a hair dryer always blowing on me. Is this normal?
  12. recently bought a 2005 Kawasaki KDX200 and I'm in need of radiator guards, skid plate, and other stuff to make It perfect for woods. the only radiator guards I can find are the DeVol ones, there are a bunch of mixed reviews so I was wondering if there was another option from other brands that would fit perfect. if anybody has any other recommendations for parts that would help it perform in woods let me know. Planning on getting an FMF gnarly woods pipe, FMF turbine core 2 silencer, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, moose universal pipe guard or P3 Carbon guard, Moose skid plate, and of course radiator guards. also looking at a rear mx style fender instead of the stock one as well as number plate instead of headlight. Also does anyone know what tires are really good for trails? something that grips well but maybe (if possible) break loose a little when I get on it because that's always really fun. Thanks for the input
  13. Hi, I drained the coolant out of my ‘19 Yz125x and was wondering how to refill it? There is a bleeding screw in the cylinder head as far as I know, do I need to use it? Or just fill up like this? Thanks!
  14. I was sitting in class daydreaming about my bike when it occurred to me; Why haven't I seen more people running two radiator fans for hard enduro? I mean it's a bit overkill and might take away from learning to be a more efficient rider but there have to be people out there who do it? I might be mistaken. Is it for electrical reasons, or is it just not necessary? Just a thought...
  15. So I’m doing some fixing on my 2001 CR 250 R. I’m going through all the issues on the off-season trying to freshen up the bike for this spring. I have watched multiple videos of people repairing radiators that were pretty bent up. Mine is slightly worse than any I’ve seen repaired, it does not leak and does not overheat (haven’t rode it in the blazing summer heat but 60-70 degrees it was fine) I guess I’m wondering has anyone repaired a crinkled up radiator successfully and did it work with no leaks or is repairing something this dented up going to have to be took to a shop? I’m basically just wanting to get it as good as possible without having to put more money in it or take it to a shop and or replace them which is inevitably going to need to be done at some point. thanks
  16. Hello, I have an issue with my 2006 DRZ 400s. This is the first time posting. I have notice that when I am riding my bike at 60 to 75 MPH, I will start to get coolant going into the overflow bottle. In a 3 mile trip at 60 to 65, I will have about 5/8 " of fluid in the overflow bottle. At 40 miles or slower i never get coolant in the bottle. Fan comes on and off. I have checked, Fan works good, T-stat opens when it should, No air pockets in the radiator, did a test on the head gasket at top dead center and its good. Water pump is working good too. check in the radiators and both are clean. Running with the new stock radiator cap with 1.1 bar. The hot light works, but it's never came on. When i let the bike just idle, fan come on and off and i might get a spoon full of fluid in the bottle. I bought this bike used. I do not know if the carburetor as been re-jetted. Please help
  17. I just bought this bike a couple of months ago, when I would ride for a good amount of time I would have to fill the radiator for the next ride just like any other water cooled bike. Since the bike is not my height I have dropped it a couple of times. Now I am noticing that the water level is always full when the weather is getting hotter and hotter, I do not want to mess up my bike or get stranded due to overheating. Does anyone might know what it could be? P.S Can someone tell me where I can get a lowering link
  18. Hi guys, I've got a '19 CRF250L (MD44, ABS Version). I have instelled the Acerbis tank a while ago and now noticed that there is not enough room for the radiator overflow hose. I've attached an image. The friction caused a leakage now. Apparntly, the radiator overflow nozzle angle changed from the MD38 model to the MD44. Previously in was facing inwards, no it's facing slightly outwards. I have the Acerbis tank for the 2017+ models, but the only change there was the fuel pump attachment, not the actual mold. The radiator and the nozzle are positioned exactly as on another machine I have here to compare. I measured this towards multiple reference points. Anyone else experiencing his issue?
  19. I have a 2008 KTM EXC that had an aftermarket radiator fan installed by the previous owner and worked fine up until some heavy trail riding a while back. Im pretty bad with electrical stuff and havnt even owned a bike with an electric start until now. Ive heard having a fan on these is pretty much a necessity so Im trying to get it working. Ive heard I can test if the fan will work by touching two wires together but I dont know which ones. Also how can I check to see if its a fuse or something else? Thanks!
  20. Hello, today I started to do further research on my issue. I have a 04 yz250f and I feel as if it’s overheating I say this because when the bike is in nuetral coasting or idle coolant flows out the overflow. So now I’m pretty sure I know what’s wrong and it’s that I’m too lean the bike backfires on deceleration but the throttle response is perfect. Also, the motor seems to remain at high rpms after the clutch is engaged. I took the carb apart and this is what I found. (I do trail riding, I know the radiators are getting enough air flow I’m not going slow enough for that to be the issue that’s what I think at least) Main jet—178 pilot jet-72 Jet needle groove position-4th down Pilot Screw Adjustment- The bike stays running at about 2 turns out but to have more throttle control best would be 3-3.5 basically all the way out. P.s I’m not very familiar with these carbs so if you can leave some information on how theses things work and what I should do, the bike starts up first kick clutch engages every time the bike just gets extremely hot.
  21. I recently bought a 2002 YZ125. I just rebuilt the top end and took it out on the first ride. When I got to the trails and went to unload my bike I noticed some drops on coolant on the bed of my truck and a little bit on the frame.(the bike had not been run at all that day). When I started riding I would check every couple of minutes and noticed it was still happening. just a couple of drips a minute coming from the bleeder hose that runs from the top of the radiator. After a little while I stopped and let the bike cool and checked the coolant level to make sure I wasn't losing too much. After checking I went back to riding and it seemed to have stopped so I figured maybe it just had something to do with the radiator cap and somehow taking it off and putting it back on had solved the problem. However today I had the bike in the bed of my truck and once again found coolant dripping from the bleeder line coming from the top of the radiator(bike had not been running). Has anyone else had this happen? Is it a problem? If so how much is it going to cost
  22. My husband's 2015 crf450r has a pinhole leak from the radiator. He noticed that his clutch cable, which has a protective metal jacket around it, had worn a small spot on the bottom edge of the radiator causing a pinhole leak. It is not a bad leak, but enough to leave a spot on the floor overnight. My question is how can we possibly repair this area that was worn through? JB weld until we can get a new radiator? Would it hold since the radiator is pressurized? Thank you for your help!
  23. I was trail riding on Tuesday and I crashed like 6 times (very unusual for me) but 3 of the crashes were kinda hard. I bowed the shit out of my left radiator shroud so its bent and looks retarded, but the radiator is pretty bent and twisted too. Its not horrible, I've seen much worse, I wish I could post a picture, it just looks like its kinda "crunched". Its not leaking though, I was wondering if its OK to ride with this until i can afford a new rad. Its a 2015 CRF250R, (plz dont move to honda forums ill get no responses). I'm just concerned that 1. It might not cool the bike enough with reduced flow, or 2: that it might reduce flow and cut coolant out from the engine which could overheat or worse... what you guys think?
  24. So as ive been digging more into my 1985 CR250, ive discovered the "magnesium water pump case" problem. My waterpump housing has been repaired with JB weld and doesnt look bad at all fortunately. looks like the case had only moderate corrosion to begin with too. Im worried about the radiators being clogged with magnesium junk, but ive only ridden air cooled bikes previously and have no clue if my radiators are good or not. Ive ridden the bike a couple times this summer, on pretty warm (75-80 degrees) days. I ride trails only with it as of now, and im in the pipe 25% of the time. Sessions have been for 2-3 hrs with maybe a 5min break here and there. No obvious issues, no overflow. Running green peak 50/50 premix. How do i check if my radiators are clogged so i dont burn out the motor?? If theres no obvious issue should i even check?? I also heard only to use evans waterless too. Will 50/50 premix still cause corrosion?
  25. I just got a 07 WR and it was barely used and sitting around for 10 years. I bought some Flatlands guards and the right side guard fit perfectly (pictures included) but the left side guard seems off a decent amount and it is not allowing things to lineup. I got no where with Flatlands...they insisted my radiator is bent but it looks perfect to me. It looks like a stock radiator as well. Has anyone had a fit issue with these? I'm confused if it is my radiator or the guards. I guess I could file away some metal but for over 100 bucks should it fit?
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