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Found 5 results

  1. I just did the raptor petcock mod and had a quick question. Running an FCR39 what happens if one night I forget to turn it to the off position? Here is the petcock I bought. So far I really like it. /shop/Yamaha-FUEL-COCK-ASSY-1-5LP-24500-01-00-p1000322768.html Yamaha FUEL COCK ASSY 1 (5LP-24500-01-00) Thanks for the help.
  2. Sorry about the repost, but I have redrafted this post after getting some additional information, and the forum does not allow editing of a post once it has been up for a short while. My intent is to consolidate the issue of the OEM vacuum operated petcock failure, and the Raptor or other petcock replacement options. I am doing this as this issue keeps coming up, and having this one reference will save a ton of typing. I will engage Eric to link this to the FAQ section. The issue: The OEM petcock uses engine vacuum to open and close the fuel flow from the tank. It has known failures whereby it fails to shut off fuel flow when the bike is off, which can flood the engine with fuel over time, filling the crankcase with fuel, and completely diluting the engine oil, etc. (bad outcome). Background detail on the OEM petcock: The OEM petcock has three positions: ON, RES, and PRI. (see the "comparison" photo below) It has two hoses connected: one carries fuel from the petcock to the carb and one brings engine vacuum from the throat of the carb, between the carb and the engine, to the petcock. In the ON and RES positions, the petcock blocks fuel flow to the carb unless engine vacuum is present (the engine is running). Normally, there is sufficient fuel in the carb float bowl for the engine to start and run, thus providing the vacuum for the petcock to turn on the fuel. The PRI position allows fuel to flow continuously, without vacuum, and is normally used to "prime" the carb float bowl after maintenance, as if the float bowl is dry the bike won't start, and thus won't create any vacuum. The petcock can fail in two ways: first, it can fail so that fuel always flows to the carb. This is initially not so bad, as the float in the carb float bowl floats up when the float bowl fills, and has a valve that closes when full....until it fails to close...then the float bowl overfills, fuel runs down the carb throat into the engine, leaks past the piston, and fills the engine. Second failure mode: the diaphragm in the OEM petcock can fail, which allows fuel to flow through the petcock and into the vacuum line, which runs directly to the carb throat on the engine side, and takes the shortcut to filling the engine with fuel again. The OEM petcock can be rebuilt, and many many riders have never had an issue. It is super convenient to simply turn off the bike and walk away, without the need to remember the fuel shutoff. However, sufficient numbers of riders have experienced the "engine full of gas" failure to make this something to consider. The solution: install a manual petcock, which requires the operator to switch the fuel off every time they leave the bike. There are a number of useable petcocks, including the OEM petcock for the DRZ400E, which are not vacuum operated. Many folks have substituted the Yamaha Raptor petcock. These petcocks are manual petcocks with three positions: ON, RES, and OFF. (see the comparison photo below) There is no vacuum line connected to the petcock, and fuel always flows to the carb in ON or RES. The advantage of these petcocks is that their bases are identical to the OEM, and thus they simply bolt on. When viewing the comparison photo, note the brass reserve standpipe length: the Raptor will be discussed further later, but has no useable reserve as this pipe is too short. Note that there are many "copies" of this petcock avail online, and they probably vary in quality; Pingle makes a petcock that will fit that is apparently of very high quality, for example. Note, if you install a manual petcock, you need to block the vacuum line from the carb. Either cut a small piece of the vacuum line and put a screw into it and push it on the vacuum nipple between the carb and the engine, or get a rubber cap and push this on. Note: nothing is EVER easy: there is a complication involved with any substitution: the fuel nipple for many substitutes is on the right side, and the OEM is on the bottom, see "comparison" photo below. There are a variety of challenges fitting petcocks so that you can easily route fuel to the carb, and can still operate the "choke". This is also made more complex if you are using an aftermarket fuel tank. I recommend researching this forum, and reading Erik Marquez's excellent FAQ publication on this. The Suzuki OEM petcock for the DRZ400 “E” The Suzuki OEM petcock for the DRZ400E appears to have the same reserve standpipe as the OEM petcock for the S or SM, and it is not vacuum operated, and might be the easiest/best solution. I have not installed it, but this really looks like it might be the easiest option to install a non-vacuum operated petcock on the DRZ400S or SM. It does have the fuel line nipple on the right side instead of the bottom. Bolt on, reroute the fuel line, and block the vacuum line near the carb. The Raptor Petcock Details: Note: once again, nothing is EVER easy: first, the Raptor fuel nipple is on the right side, and the OEM on the bottom, see "comparison" photo below. Note that the Clarke 3.9 tank and the Raptor petcock seem to fortuitously be made for each other....ha ha...the fuel outlet on the Raptor lines up perfectly with the fuel inlet to the carb so a short straight hose is all that is needed, AND the choke operates perfectly. (okay, sometimes some things are easy...) Second twizzle: Raptor petcock has no useable reserve without modification, keep reading! The Raptor petcock from Yamaha, which fits on the stock tank or on the plastic tank just fine.... is designed for use on ATV's, which have big flat tanks, rather than the upright tanks that we have on bikes. As a result, the raptor petcock comes with a very short brass standpipe on the main intake. (when the fuel level drops below the standpipe, you starve for fuel which is the indicator to select reserve) So, with the stock Raptor standpipe, you will have a very tiny amount of fuel remaining in the tank at that point, thus you will have virtually NO RESERVE. See the "comparison" photo below. I have fixed this relatively easily, read on. The spacer that you see in the OEM image below, between your petcock and the tank is not required...and further reduces the "reserve". To fix the reserve issue, I got some 7mm brass tube at a model store, twisted the old reserve standpipe out (it is a press fit) , cut a 4.5 inch length of the new tube, used a hacksaw to carefully make a slight kerf around the end of the replacement pipe to hold the lip of the OEM fuel filter on, rounded and emery clothed the end I was inserting into the petcock, froze the tube, and pushed it into the new raptor petcock. This was superb, and resulted in a standpipe that is 4.1 inches above the flat mount face of the raptor petcock. It gives me a 1.5 Litre (30km) reserve on a Clarke 3.9 gal tank. (Note: tube is measured by outside diameter, pipe by inside diameter: you need exactly 7mm outside diameter to get this new tube to press fit into the petcock and seal and stay, thus the need for "tube" and not "pipe") For the non-believer in this reserve issue, just install the Raptor as is, then you might want to put a clean line on the petcock and direct the fuel into a jerry can...then select "ON" and wait til fuel stops flowing. At that point, use a measuring cup or something and select "RES" and measure how much fuel you get. When that runs dry, try tipping the bike to the left side to get the fuel trapped in the right side to cross over, then select RES again and measure how much more fuel you get. This will tell you if you have a useable reserve, or if you need to modify the standpipe on your replacement petcock. By the way, the Clarke 3.9 US gal tank is an honest measure: the tank dispenses 14.7L (3.9US gal) of fuel to dry tank......but still has 1.7L of fuel in the right lobe. (tank actually holds 16.5L of fuel) If you lay the bike on the left side, pick up the front wheel and tip it to past level, this fuel crosses and is useable. So: with a 4inch standpipe on the raptor petcock on the Clarke 3.9US Gal tank, you get 13.2L in the ON, 1.5L in RES, and a further 1.7L avail in the right lobe. Between the reserve and the right lobe, even when I am flogging it like a rental, this gives me 70km once I go on reserve. Happy riding. Comparison Photo of the three PETCOCKS mentioned and photo of the OEM petcock to show the spacer.
  3. My 2008 raptor 250 has never started right. It nevers hit right away, and if its just a little cold it will not come close to starting. I have bought a new starter battery and selonoid and it still doesnt start right and if i keep try and keep starting it will break the selonoid, and i will have to get a new one, which has happened 3 times. It will start but, never has right so what do i need to do so it doesnt keep blowing my selonoid and so it starts right up. btw the motor and everything is perfect it just doesnt start right.
  4. I am drafting this post to consolidate the issue of the OEM vacuum operated petcock failure, and the Raptor petcock replacement. I am doing this as this issue keeps coming up, and having this one reference will save a ton of typing. The issue: The OEM petcock has known failures whereby it fails to shut off fuel flow when the bike is off, which can flood the engine with fuel over time, filling the crankcase with fuel, and completely diluting the engine oil, etc. (bad outcome). Background detail on the OEM petcock: The OEM petcock has three positions: ON, RES, and PRI. (see the "comparison" photo below) It has two hoses connected: one carries fuel from the petcock to the carb and one brings engine vacuum from the throat of the carb, between the carb and the engine, to the petcock. In the ON and RES positions, the petcock blocks fuel flow to the carb unless engine vacuum is present (the engine is running). Normally, there is sufficient fuel in the carb float bowl for the engine to start and run, thus providing the vacuum for the petcock to turn on the fuel. The PRI position allows fuel to flow continuously, without vacuum, and is normally used to "prime" the carb float bowl after maintenance, as if the float bowl is dry the bike won't start, and thus won't create any vacuum.... The petcock can fail in two ways: first, it can fail so that fuel always flows to the carb. This is initially not so bad, as the float in the carb float bowl floats up when the float bowl fills, and has a valve that closes when full....until it fails to close...then the float bowl overfills, fuel runs down the carb throat into the engine, leaks past the piston, and fills the engine. Second failure mode: the diaphragm in the OEM petcock can fail, which allows fuel to flow through the petcock and into the vacuum line, which runs directly to the carb throat on the engine side, and takes the shortcut to filling the engine with fuel again. The OEM petcock can be rebuilt, and many many riders have never had an issue. It is super convenient to simply turn off the bike and walk away, without the need to remember the fuel shutoff. However, sufficient numbers of riders have experienced the "engine full of gas" failure to make this something to consider. The solution: install a manual petcock, which requires the operator to switch the fuel off every time they leave the bike. While there are a number of useable petcocks, the most common substitution seems to be the Yamaha Raptor petcock. This petcock is a manual petcock with three positions: ON, RES, and OFF. (see the comparison photo below) There is no vacuum line connected to the petcock, and fuel always flows to the carb in ON or RES. Note that there are many "copies" of this petcock avail online, and they probably vary in quality. The advantage of this petcock is that its base is identical to the OEM, and thus it simply bolts on. Note: nothing is EVER easy: there are a couple of twizzles involved with this substitution: first, the Raptor fuel nipple is on the right side, and the OEM on the bottom, see "comparison" photo below. There are a variety of challenges fitting petcocks so that you can easily route fuel to the carb, and can operate the "choke". I recommend researching this forum, and reading Erik Marquez's excellent FAQ publication on this. Note that the Clarke 3.9 tank and the Raptor petcock seem to fortuitously be made for each other....ha ha...the fuel outlet on the Raptor lines up perfectly with the fuel inlet to the carb so a short straight hose is all that is needed, AND the choke operates perfectly. (okay, sometimes some things are easy...) Second twizzle: Raptor petcock has no useable reserve without modification, keep reading! The Raptor Petcock Details: The Raptor petcock from Yamaha, which fits on the stock tank or on the plastic tank just fine.... is designed for use on ATV's, which have big flat tanks, rather than the upright tanks that we have on bikes. As a result, the raptor petcock comes with a very short brass standpipe on the main intake. (when the fuel level drops below the standpipe, you starve for fuel which is the indicator to select reserve) So, with the stock Raptor standpipe, you will have a very tiny amount of fuel remaining in the tank at that point, thus you will have virtually NO RESERVE. See the "comparison" photo below. I have fixed this relatively easily, read on. The spacer that you see in the OEM image below, between your petcock and the tank is not required...and further reduces the "reserve". Note, if you install a manual petcock, you need to block the vacuum line from the carb. Either cut a small piece of the vacuum line and put a screw into it and push it on the vacuum nipple between the carb and the engine, or get a rubber cap and push this on. To fix the reserve issue, I got some 7mm brass tube at a model store, twisted the old reserve standpipe out (it is a press fit) , cut a 4.5 inch length of the new tube, used a hacksaw to carefully make a slight kerf around the end of the replacement pipe to hold the lip of the OEM fuel filter on, rounded and emery clothed the end I was inserting into the petcock, froze the tube, and pushed it into the new raptor petcock. This was superb, and resulted in a standpipe that is 4.1 inches above the flat mount face of the raptor petcock. It gives me a 1.5 Litre (30km) reserve on a Clarke 3.9 gal tank. (Note: tube is measured by outside diameter, pipe by inside diameter: you need exactly 7mm outside diameter to get this new tube to press fit into the petcock and seal and stay, thus the need for "tube" and not "pipe") For the non-believer in this reserve issue, just install the Raptor as is, then you might want to put a clean line on the petcock and direct the fuel into a jerry can...then select "ON" and wait til fuel stops flowing. At that point, use a measuring cup or something and select "RES" and measure how much fuel you get. When that runs dry, try tipping the bike to the left side to get the fuel trapped in the right side to cross over, then select RES again and measure how much more fuel you get. This will tell you if you have a useable reserve, or if you need to modify the standpipe on your replacement petcock. By the way, the Clarke 3.9 US gal tank is an honest measure: the tank dispenses 14.7L (3.9US gal) of fuel to dry tank......but still has 1.7L of fuel in the right lobe. (tank actually holds 16.5L of fuel) If you lay the bike on the left side, pick up the front wheel and tip it to past level, this fuel crosses and is useable. So: with a 4inch standpipe on the raptor petcock on the Clarke 3.9US Gal tank, you get 13.2L in the ON, 1.5L in RES, and a further 1.7L avail in the right lobe. Between the reserve and the right lobe, even when I am flogging it like a rental, this gives me 70km once I go on reserve. Happy riding.
  5. Hi guys! I own a DRZ400s and have a question about taking a different approach to the standard leaky petcock Fix. So, I just ordered the fix a lot of people recommended on here for the leaky stock petcock: The Petcock off of a Yamaha Raptor. I did this after looking for other vacuum petcocks and not finding good alternatives. However, I found a part made by Pingel, and was wondering if it would work in conjunction with the Yamaha Raptor petcock, in order to give me the perks of the Suzuki Vacuum Petcock, without it's shoddy craftsmanship and limited life. Could one of you guys help me out, and tell me if this would work? Do I just place the Pingel Inline Vacuum Valve on the fuel line between the Raptor Petcock and the Carb? Or does the Pingel Valve work as a petcock all on it's own? Thanks guys. Besides hitting the dirt often, I am trying to use my DRZ to zip around Los Angeles and make deliveries with postmates/grubhub/etc, so I would not like have to shut off the manual petcock every time I hop on/off the bike. Thanks again guys!
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