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So I have a 2007 DRZ with a vacuum petcock. Many people want to change this to a manual petcock - this is not cheap in the UK. This is a quick and easy way to convert the vacuum petcock into a manual one. First some background that might save others wasted time: I looked for suitable alternatives, and bought an aftermarket Yamaha RAPTOR which seemed to get a lot of positive write ups. But there are lots of issues with it! The diameter of the fuel outflow pipe is only 6mm on the Yamaha petcock (8mm on the old and the fuel intake into the Carb). Fuel pipes can only one internal diameter so this will immediately require an awkward mod! The length of the ‘ON’ fuel intake pipe is about half that of the original – so when you have to switch to reserve, you will have very little time to find fuel! The fuel outflow from the replacement Petcock is sideways and towards the Carb (where there is no space) as opposed to down (like the original) where there is plenty of space. (apparently if you have an oversize plastic fuel tank this is not a problem – but if you have an original metal one then it is). The quality is not as robust as the original Suzuki Here are the two side by side: So I looked for low cost alternatives, and could not see any….. so I took the vacuum petcock apart to see if it could be easily converted into a manual petcock. And weirdly it is really easy. Instructions for conversion: 1. You want to permanently close the vacuum valve. You can achieve this is various ways (you will need to seal the pipe coming out of the carb and the pipe going into the petcock). This was already done on my bike – the pipes were cut, and bolts glued in in order to seal them. NOTE: If you are happy with sealing the tubes then you will NOT need to unscrew the 5 screws that give access to the vacuum valve (the OPTIONAL step below) I chose to go one step further in the Petcock, and removed the light spring that keeps the vacuum valve closed and used some spare rubber (folded old innertube wrapped in tape) to create a plug the pressed the valve closed with more certainty. This was easy and took a few minutes. 2. You need to allow the switch to create alternate paths for fuel flow: Take the 2 screws out from the front of the switch, and take it off. The plate that has FUEL/ON/RES/PRI stamped on it, has a little lug at the top of the inner circle. You need to file that off, then put it back together. In the picture to the left, you can see what looks like a face. This is what you have achieved: The left eye socket- the main fuel comes down the pipe from above. It can then flow either towards the front or towards the rear. You have blocked the rear by disabling the vacuum valve (lighter colour silver in the photo). So this is now your Main fuel source ("ON"). The right eye socket is your reserve fuel source ("RES"). The only way to send fuel to your carb is to connect one of the eyes to the mouth. (You can see the left hand side of the mouth has a path that allows flow to the Carb - this was used for priming it before. Depending on which eye you create a path to, will affect if you are running ON or on RES). NOTE: The labels around the tap are now all misleading! see below. 3. The switch can now create different paths for the fuel to flow along. When it is pointing: UP fuel is ON (You are connecting the left eye to the mouth), DOWN and it is RES (You are connecting the right eye to the mouth) Pointing RIGHT it is OFF (there is no open path between either eye and the mouth). I have just put it all back together and tested it, and it all works exactly as described above, so this seems a very simple way to convert a petcock and appears to work fine.
The OEM vacuum operated petcock found on the DRZ400S and SM is a part that will fail.. Not the parts fault, just that rubber and today's gas don't do well together. (that's actually not really true, it’s just the type of rubber being used is not holding up) Sometimes the OEM vacuum petcock fails on the gas side; other times the vacuum diaphragm side. The Yamaha Raptor non-vacuum OEM petcock was found to fit well so it was a common go to swap..... The problem was, those making that recommendation had a DRZ400E with plastic tank, or DRZ S/SM one of the many aftermarket plastic tanks and we did not know the part did not fit well with the OEM steel S/Sm tank and either the stock BSR36 carb or the commonly swapped in FCR. The issue is the fuel line path. And Choke knob interference. With the steel tank and BSR or FCR, you have a close fit, large misalignment, and interference with the FCR choke Though same have figured out a way to make it work.... I call this one "The long way home" About a year ago, I had several new OEM Raptor fuel petcocks on the shelf and a DRZ customer with a built SM but using a stock tank. I needed to make it work... Over the years I have seen more than a few pressed in steel barb fittings come out of an aluminum petcock ...so I figured, why not remove that steel one on the Raptor part and put a barb on the other side. I tried it, and it works, so have a few of them on bikes for years now. Both FCR and BSR bikes. Parts required: Raptor petcock Yamaha FUEL COCK ASSY 1 (5LP-24500-01-00) 1/8" NPT hex socket plug (you can use brass, steel, aluminum, and it can be hex socket, or an external drive type. I prefer the socket hex so it will be recessed, but anything will work. If I were to use an external square drive plug, after installing it, id cut off the plug flush to the petcock body for more finger clearance on that side and a cleaner look) 90deg 1/8" NPT x 5/16" barb (again there are lots of options, you can use fancy Aeroquip, Earls, Jegs branded aluminum fittings here or brass stuff from the local hardware store.. BUT, most of those I have found have been 1/4" barb, which is slightly underside to stock. In action, they have worked just fine though. You could also use a 90deg 1/8" NPT male x 1/8" NPT female fitting and then a 1/8"NPT x 5/16" barb if the barb/NPT fitting is not available.) Teflon tape or other fuel resistant sealer LTR Q drill bit (21/64 is the closest fractional bit to the LTR Q, it is slightly undersized, but I have found most are not using an ultra-precision mil to drill the hole, so some wiggle in the drill bit happens in your drill press or hand drill , that makes the hole slightly over sized...and it works out just fine.) 1/8" - 27 TPI NPT tap (not super common at big box hardware stores, so you may have to order it) 5/6" x 4" drill rod or 5/16" twist drill New Raptor petcock stripped down ready to go; the steel tube that was in the right side comes out easily with a pair of pliers, crush and twist/pull. A way..... I have used a drill press, mil, and hand drill.... all work.....but highly recommend the drill press or mil. The hand drill leaves a lot of room for error. When I use a drill press or the mil, I put a piece of drill rod (you can use a twist drill 5/16") inserted in the hole left from removing the tube.....Insert the drill as far as it will go into the petcock, then chuck up the drill.... now adjust your vice or other hold down to hold the part... Your drill press is now centered and aligned to drill straight through the port at the same axis as the old hole.... Once the part is set up. Drill a hole all the way though. Go slow and sneak up on the thread depth...test fit the plug / fitting after every few turns of the tap... there are lots of variables in thread size I have found in off the shelf NPT products.. if you cut too deep, the plug or fitting may go in to far and block the transfer port...not deep enough and the fitting/ plug will not go in far enough to be stable and be retained. As you can see below, the threads are of different depth on this one. I had to cut a bit deeper to get the 90deg fitting in 4 full turns. The particular hex plug I used this time must have been at the smaller range of allowable diameter for the thread size as it went in flush with much less thread cutting. Test fit, often........ Once you’re done cutting threads on both sides, blow out the holes, flush with some break clean to remove cutting fluid and swarf... Plug installed on the right (forward facing) side of the petcock where the steel tube used to be. It is flush with outside, and not interfering at all with the fuel transfer port Screw in the 90deg fitting and reassemble the petcock. I cleaned up all the exposed Teflon tape for a cleaner look In no way is this anything more than A WAY to MOD the Raptor petcock to work with the DRZ Steel tank.... Others have found ingenious way to MOD it that worked for them, the materials and tools at hand
Ok this is my first post so please give me a break if I am doing something wrong. I have a 2009 Drz400sm I just picked up recently. It has fmf exhaust, big bore, hot cams, fcr carb, 3x3 mod, raptor petcock, and i'm sure a few other things. I was aware that the bike had a bad idle when I bought it and it would die if you didn't keep the revs up with the clutch in. I fixed the loose throttle cables and it seemed to clear the idle issue up for the first ride after that. Soon after that it started to have a bad idle again. Now the bike will not even start. It turns over but just will not start. I tried to hook up a battery box to the battery and that didn't help. The battery is charged, the spark plug is new and sparking, the air filter looks fine and it seems like it may actually be getting too much fuel because there was fuel on the plug. It was having some overheating issues when it was running and I checked the coolant to see there wasn't much in there. Filled it up with new coolant. I drained the oil the next day and it was creamy colored. I imagine that it was coolant in the oil because the coolant level dropped significantly in the radiator. I checked the valve clearance and intake are over spec slightly. It measured .18mm (.15mm is max spec for hot cam). The exhaust clearance is in spec. I know the intake is a bit out of spec but I don't think that is why the bike isn't starting. Between the milky oil, the rough idle, not starting, valves out of spec, i'm honestly not even sure where to start with finding the issue. I haven't torn apart the carb yet because the guy I got it from said he cleaned it but I am wondering about the jets that are being used. Please if anyone could help me out some it would be greatly appreciated. The starter will turn all day but the motor does not want to turn on.