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Found 24 results

  1. Hey all, I have a model year 2000 drz400s that sits very low, the rear especially. It looks like all 2000s do from what google shows me. Why is this? I know so little has changed over the years and suspension is one of the things that actually has. Is the rear shock shorter? Linkage different? Anyone know?? I'd like to get the rear up to "modern" or "normal" height, the front I'm ditching for an SM front anyway. All searches I've done return only how to install lowering links to adjust height which obviously doesn't apply... Thanks!
  2. I recently rebuilt my 650R's rear suspension bearings, as at least the upper shock bearing was completely toast and there were several milimeters play noticeable when lifting the swingarm at the rear axle bolt, accompanied by an explicit "clack" noise somewhere in rear suspension. So I replaced all of the bearings (swingarm, linkage, shock and bone) with new ones. I used quality product standardized bearings (because Honda really demands some $$$ for each of the 10 or so bearings) for all pivots except the lower shock bearing, as this is a special size which can only be ordered from Honda (19mm inner diameter). I also replaced the inner shafts/axles as they may have been worn significantly, I didn't/couldn't measure that. Replaced everything, did a quick test afterwards and still felt a lot of play at the rear axle. Maybe 2-3mm. Less than before, but definitely still there and still with a "clack". So I re-rolled the rebuild and found significant play in the lower shock bearing (the OEM Honda!!). I filmed the rotational play around the radial axis of the needle bearing (which should be close to 0 for needle bearings in my understanding), can be seen here: https://streamable.com/sp246l - again, this video was filmed when fully bolted down and with brand new OEM bearing and inner bearing ring. I did some research and found a lot of people saying that some play in rear suspension for the 650R is normal. Now I know why. I also inspected the old inner bearing ring and found significant wear with visible and sensible dents - really doesn't surprise me with that load of play out of the box. Long story short, I turned one of the bearing shafts of the other suspension bearings down to something between 19.05 and 19.1mm (from 20mm, didn't have the tools to measure it more exact) and cut it to length (also pressed in another steel tube to reduce the inner diameter from 12 to 10mm). Definitely was a pain in the ass as the material was brutally hard, I had to go by 1/20mm steps on my mini-lathe. In the end, the result was okay-ish: Now all I had left to do was to reassemble the suspension. My custom inner ring for the lower shock bearing went in stiffly and didn't run as smooth as before, for sure, but still okay for this application. The result can be seen here: https://streamable.com/b85g10 I am pretty satisfied with it, also the play felt when lifting the rear axle is almost gone, no clicking and clacking noticeable. Maybe Honda had a deeper thought regarding the play in this bearing I am not able to understand. But honestly, I just think Honda or their supplier for this custom bearing &%$#@!ed something up. 0.05-0.1mm off in a small sized bearing is not just some fabrication tolerance. Let me know your thoughts to that! Ride on, Graylack 🙂
  3. I am restomodding my 1986 Honda CR500. The existing Ohlins HO4490 rear shock is severely damaged and cannot be reused without a full rebuild and replacement of multiple main parts. My Question: Are there any new aftermarket shocks that will fit? Or, what other bikes have the same/similar shocks? Otherwise, does anybody have a main tube laying around for an Ohlins shock of this size?
  4. Does anyone know how to remove the rear brake “piston/plunger” that drives the movement of fluid in the master cylinder? Trying to replace mine as the seals are bad but for the life of me I cannot get it out. It is not threaded, there is no c-clip, it won’t fall out the bottom no matter how much I tap the sides, and I’ve even tried blowing compressed air down into the small hole at the bottom of the cylinder to see if it would blow out and it still wouldn’t budge. It will slide up just like it’s supposed to but will not come out the bottom for removal. Anyone have any tips on how I can remove this? Bike is a 2014 KTM 350 XC-F Thanks in advance!!! Photo is of the bottom of the master cylinder.
  5. Hello, recently was planning on greasing a linkage for my kx85. During my mission I got to around the second bolt and then realized I was going to have to take my entire swingarm off to take the bolts out. I had enough pain dealing with it and decided to abort mission and put everything back together. Tightened the front knuckle connecting bolt as much as I could and torqued one of the connection rods to spec. After all this it was back together and then I decided to see how much play was in it. If I attach my body to the top of the bike and pull up on the rear I can move it around 25% upwards. This isn't right sense before I got into this mess, doing that wouldn't even make it budge one inch. Anybody know what It could be? Plan on taking it to a mechanic to get suspension serviced but not having to pay for a linkage repair would be nice.
  6. Hello World, I know its has been asked 10 001 times but the threads are mostly old, so I m looking for some updates since the market is constantly evolving. Pictures will be greatly appreciated! What is the best and most universal rear rack for DRZ400 in 2020? Not looking to spend a fortune on this bike also. I would prefer one that can accepts kits from GIVI or SW-Motech without requiring an additional plate and can also have holes for strapping a soft luggage. Like this one below which unfortunately is discontinued now: I am not sure if I want to drill additional holes though so might just get a cheap China knock off of OEM Suzuki rack for 40 bucks or so, like this one: Thanks!
  7. Hello guys, Y'all are always a big help to me with my problems and this is a really noob question, but here goes. I took apart the brake system to paint the bike, I then put it back on, but isnt bleeding. It doesnt even seem like fluid is entering the master. I took apart the master and the seels dont look too bad and there is no scoring. What should I do? I dont want to buy a vaccum kit or anything. I purchased a steel brake line but I am waiting to put it on. Could it be the line? I also purchased a rebuild kit, but itll be a while till it gets hear. Anything I should try, or any reasons y'all can think pf for why fluis isnt even entering the master cylinder? Thanks again, feel free to roast me for this question.
  8. My crf230 rear tire is almost as bald as one could be. I don’t really know what to look for in a tire so here I am. What should I look for in a rear tire? What tire would you suggest? It’s almost only used in trails, both tight and wide open, only time we are in a field is when we are going to the trails or messing around.
  9. Recently purchased 2017 500 RRS. New to Beta. Only real gripe I have is mushy rear brake action. Doesn't relate to heat build up as it exhibits this characteristic on the stand immediately after a bleed. Seems like there's about 2 - 3 inches of travel in the rear pedal after initial rotor contact to full rock hard lock. That's a lot off mush. I've taken some of the mush out by adjusting pedal position but that's a work around which only takes advantage of very soft initial contact. Probably just going to glaze my pads, rotor and make it worse so just an experiment perhaps. Pads and rotor dry and clean. Using Motul 660 DOT 4. Satisfied no air in system. Have bled several times. Question.....is there something about the rear brake light set up (switch) which may contribute to this? Different "versions" of this model maybe with the earlier , or later, having substandard brake lines? Anything? Don't see where anyone else has experienced this. Are some calipers just weak due to some freak internal?
  10. Ok, I have a lifan 125cc pit bike on a Honda 50ccframe, I need new rear sprocket I need 35t,I can't measure what mm I need though, can someone tell me what millimeter 35t sprocket I will need, links are appreciated!
  11. I have a 2011 xcf 250 and haven't had any troubles. We took a little break from riding then as we got back on the bikes I went to use my rear brake and the pedal was stiff. I slammed it down and it un-stiffened So I thought it was fine. Next corner I barely touch the pedal and it locked the rear tire and got stuck down. I had to kick the lever back up and then it worked fine the rest of the day. Why would this of happened?
  12. What's going on guys, so I'm making my ssr 125 into a stunt bike, i put rear pegs on and I need to make a rear handbrake setup, I was thinking of buying a front brake setup and disconnecting the hose with the banjo bolts and buying a longer hose, then making a bracket to mount the caliper on, would that work? does anyone have a setup that they know forsure works that won't cost an arm and a leg?
  13. I'm curious if wr rear 18" wheels will fit a yz450f. I have a 2016 yz450f and want to put an 18" rear on. I just want a cheap tuff rear wheel. I've compared the OEM parts numbers between 2016 WR450 and YZ450f, they're different but I'd like to know I anyone has tried this or knows of a better way of finding this combo. I've looked on ebay and motosport, rmatv, I haven't found anything that is cheap enough or fits what I want. ANY suggestions appreciated. thanks
  14. (At this point my front brake is strong, could do endos) So my front tire pops, I take the wheel off. Take it to a shop, they fix it, I bring it back, put it on the bike, disc slides in without issues, but now my front brake is so weak, and it comes to the handle bar quite easily. So I try to bleed them out, but can’t get them any better than what they were already at when I put the wheel back on. But they were perfect before? So why? It can’t be my pads, this is pissing me off. 06 rmz450
  15. Hey guys, I need some advice. I have a 2019 SM and I noticed some gnarly wear on my wheel spacers. I know it's soft metal, but these gouges are concerning. Can anyone tell me what could be causing this or if this is normal? I've heard mixed things so far, so I really need some expert advice. Bike rides perfectly fine, does not wobble at high speed. Rear wheel is torqued to 72 ft/lb and both bearings and spacers are always cleaned and regreased before being mounted. Wheel bearings look shiny and new and the rubber looks perfect. I routinely swap out the 17" street tires for 18/21 knobbies to go offroad, which is how I noticed this. The spacers do not interchange between wheelsets, so I'm positive they're the correct set for the SM rear wheel. Any help would be appreciated.
  16. Does anybody have experience installing a tug / lift / grab strap on the back of the 2020 Husqvarna range? Since the motorcycle has a composite rear frame I am struggling to find a strap that will fit and a position to install it. I am considering Clacson or Blackbird straps but can't find any good installation examples. If you have any experience let me know please! (in the photo you can see an example of installation on an older model year)
  17. After many requests and popular demand, the 1st gen KLX250s (06-07) Enduro Series rack is now available at https://www.pmracks.com/products.php?id=148 . Like all Enduro Series racks, they are Rotopax ready and compatible with many Wolfman Luggage products. All 1st gen KLX250 rear racks will include a separate bracket to relocate your turn signals.
  18. I recently bout a 17 ktm 50sx off of another owner. At first the ktm rode fine, and the tire somewhat free spun. After a couple of rides the rear wheel started to have some drag. I noticed at that time the rear brake was sticking. So I changed out the rear brake pads, then later the disk. After resolving those issues it didn’t take long before the rear wheel started to drag again. Now the rear wheel has no free spin. I’m wondering if the clutches need changed? Or a bearing issue? I took off the chain and the tire freely spins, so whatever the case is something internally with clutch or a bearing of some sort... please help
  19. Hi there, I have a 1999 yz250 rear shock that is completely stuffed. Rebuilding it is not an option. What other years rear shocks are compatible with it? And are other models compatible such as the yzf 250 and 450? Cheers.
  20. Bought this bike used a few months ago and it was dark out so i didnt notice this crack in the rear hub. Its on the sprocket side. Ive been riding on it for for months like this and the crack hasnt widened or spread at all. Not sure what to do. Wheels are VERY expensive for this bike. See attached pics. replacing the wheel would involve me setting the offset and Truing and everything which would be my first time doing so, So im a bit nervous. if i do replace would this wheel work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Warp-9-Racing-Wheel-Assembly-Rear-SM-4-25-x-17-/203082994931?_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:AQAFAAACQBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkZ%2F%2B%2BjiCUbgvzhyyof3jXZImghya5nEYeCSGpRoKGyxggFptQigOK5bcC1c35q4g3KfSUpDLtwQKVYGJxLvVF39eqxlTdsXsLmCsv4rlqXYS585Xjj4qcxqZB1YXkaznMzILBMu%2Btm0lXxIEYOVPs0CwcTVCsMQztXqIpW%2FHfrsIHq8hEdVJnojX35mqP91Ws2%2BCiyZNPnZjKH9JT0rVV%2FdrPhUWM0wS%2Fwsf0967CuaZHSaIJUr11wA1FUusReOUJsMiXCo0MHdZ8iBfllfyfR%2BIaJue0pVrThwV2wCytEWJyNB7FEsQsyXQB7BnvMD8L7JRVCZSJX4qYizd6f3XSYhNA5WtyZVM7TLg9poSzIa3%2FpAmnntzMxkvvGXIR%2FQFodUVv6b8ixkIZ1JSAKsS7t0u0ULF9a6vyZpjiXA%2B1a%2FM8I8vcNmDlqFS5wNC28tXE6evRJuBVAStcjcRnyXFD5y9K7OdL6eO47ygED%2BLCuy64KNLP1H9ZJwlCtqoMZKAWrIisy7DVUtHjzC5WiyO52cqySioDOXixpa82dYQeZ0YnqYGaQu393N0Wk%2BLlCe%2Fs%2B77GIJ%2Bi3d4W2fXIJOhFyGMB0w8yZ5gCt4y3yK%2BH8JTKo2bzvqR8dGhC%2FkjSXnvb1rIvoBqNItfVpNu3ED0JPsqILgEMpXJf9sPjDWERX63JO%2B5VpxQkLEA6JL7E%2BuTwSZPVWh2IW1sNN5wAOGIjAw%3D%3D%7Ccksum:20308299493170f419abae4f4cec81a863c682a9c3f4%7Campid:PL_CLK%7Cclp:3268220&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=203082994931&targetid=1192081307704&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=21143&campaignid=11774733487&mkgroupid=113829509425&rlsatarget=pla-1192081307704&abcId=9300474&merchantid=118949009&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Pibua2u7wIVUr7ACh0QCgxKEAQYCSABEgIdUfD_BwE&pageci=64794503-fa44-4bce-8f8e-239a0d1d78fe
  21. Got a 1996 Honda cr125r and the rear shock had had it bounces around like a jack in a box and think it would probably be more cost efficient to buy one from a breakers problem is none of them have one specifically for a 96 but most other years so was wondering if anybody knew whether any other shocks from other years may fit my bike, thanks in advance!
  22. I want more wheelbase for my raised BMW F650 since after making it taller its weight distribution became noticeably uneven - it tends to push its front while off-road cornering and became more prone to wheelies. This is my daily use bike and I use it for long trips and off-road cruising regularly. What I've been thinking about is to mount an alloy KTM rear swingarm with a PDS shock that would terminate the need of regular linkage maintenance and would give some extra ground clearance at its bottom. The biggest problem is, that I have now an F650GS Dakar rear shock and the WP PDS I have now is *a lot* longer than that - also the Dakar shock connects to the link under the swingarm but the WP connects onto it, hence I'd need a 300-340mm long PDS shock instead of the recent >410mm one. Were they ever produced in such length or is it even possible to shorten one by so much?
  23. Hi, yeah i bought a used 450 from 2003 and when i use my rear brake and roll backwards there's nothing to hold the rear brake caliper in place and it just sticks onto the rear brake disk and rolls with the disk backwards so i was hoping someone would have some answers or pictures on whats holding their rear brake calipers in place because i know my bike has a good functioning rear brake otherwise but it's just when i roll back it sticks onto the disk and would eventually break the brakeline. When i bought it i got a spare welded and then cracked again swingarm with the bike and its identical to the one that's on the bike so i suspect that i might not have a original rear brake caliper? i hope this is understandable im from Finland and swedish is my first language and im about to fix up the bike engine and put a 5-speed gearbox into it instead of a 4-speed beacuse where i drive right now i just have to use the clutch way too much.
  24. Edit to original thread since diagnosis is new rear bearings needed, which begs the question: OEM or after-market and, if the latter, which? Thanks! —- original thread below —- Took the rear wheel off my 2018 and 101 hour YZ250X to change a brake rotor and noticed some marks on the rear axle about 2/3rd of the way from the drive side to the brake side, per the pics. Some sort of wear / rust / corrosion. Is this an indication of anything to be concerned with? Any insights greatly appreciated!
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