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Found 218 results

  1. Hello Thumpertalk, This thread will document the repair and assembly of my 85 xr600r. It's been a while so i thought id start a new thread. You can find the original thread here. Here we go! Showing the manual and C1 Gear high and low boss sides. below is the lower boss side. these were on backwards when i took them out if i remember correctly, would explain neutral to first and first to 2nd shifting slippage Blue ink is oem parts fiche diagram#'s Below is the Higher boss side C1 Same with C2 below. Higher boss side Lower boss side C2 below with the worst of the damage on any of the gear dog mating holes (please let me know the correct engineering term because that cant be correct Worst of the wear on any of the gear dogs Finished Main shaft and my brand new circlip/snap-ring pliers. excited to use these babies in the future on my next project (yes I'm already thinking of another one) Workbench Holy Clearance Specs Batman! Used Micrometer. All good. Wash Bin Completed Transmission!! Crankshaft and connecting rod. Falicon Rod In the shop right now getting cleaned straightened and pressed together. Couldn't resist a picture with my firefighter hat! Cleaning cases Masking Cases Primer and Paint start to finish in my super professional homemade painting booth Tape Off That's it for now! Going back to work tomorrow. Will Post pics next week of pressed crankshaft. Maybe paint other engine covers. Need to order Shift Drum pieces and have all the bearings pressed in Thanks guys! P.S. Please let me know if you see anything wrong or have any suggestions. HAPPY 4TH OF JULY!!
  2. Hello all! This is my first post so forgive me if I miss any formalities. Just got my hands on a 01 rm250, I have been running through the forums here looking for info but I feel that my need for information is too broad, probably because this is my first smoker. I'm a handy guy though so I feel that I shouldn't have many issues getting this thing in top shape (with a little help of course). The bike has a few small issues. First and foremost being that it is quite hard to start when cold. This I learned the hard way with no boots and a bruised foot. Second issue is there seems to be a bog mid throttle, its like it falls on its face right before it hits the band. Mods include a fmf shorty and vforce reeds. I have went through the carb and checked the reeds. One set of the reeds was really loose when I got them off so I snugged those up and put it back together. This helped some. I have been through the forums many times, the issue is I don't see many 01s with these issues and im unsure of the model changes through the years. Will post pics when I get off work. Thanks for any insight.
  3. hey guys, first post but i need some help on the bottom end of my kx 80 picked it up of craigslist... good price but needed a full rebuild. can anyone help with the fact that i have the motor apart and everthing neatly aranged. now everthing replaced good to go. stuck a little on the re sealing this bottom end. is it ok if i use just black rtv on the case. instead of doing a cosmetic bottom end gasket kit. i would just use rtv and seal it like that. would that be ok or do i really need the paper gaskets. thanks alot any info will help 🙄
  4. I have a xr 200 r its ran like a champ for the past five years but started smoking about a year ago and burning oil ive heard there are tricks such as pouring coke or diesel down the heads and letting it soak in to help solve it smoking is there anything else or would this work thank you.
  5. 2008 crf250r, in the process of finishing up a top end rebuild, and after installing the timing chain onto the cam I deciding to hand crank the engine slowly with the kickstart to see if everything was alright. There is a distinct knock that sounds like it is coming from somewhere in the cylinder each time I turn the engine over. What would be causing this sound?
  6. Hello, I was rebuilding my bottom end in my 1999 wr400 because the crankshaft broke on it. Bought a 1998 yz400 crank to put in it and after measuring them, the can chain timing gear on the crank is ~0.5mm different between the two along the shaft. The rod bearings on the yz are also bigger but that shouldn't be an issue. Should I be ok or do I need to buy a wr specific crank off of fleabay? Thanks for the responses!
  7. I need to do the forks on: 2012 WR450F 2007 YZ250 Is there a trick to getting the compression damper piece out without that special fork cap tool? Heres what im talking about: 2012 WR450F 2007 YZ250 I rebuilt a pair of AOS forks with no special tools but I think the compression body came out with a 17mm socket. It was off a 2008 KLX450, I'm PRETTY sure top looked like this: Maybe someone can verify that 2008 KLX450R forks have that style of top cap. I cant remember and the bike is not in my possession atm. I dont like buying model specific tools so if there is a trick to getting those compression caps off let me know!
  8. Hey, new member here, my name is Josh. Been looking to get on a bike as I'm growing tired of only having the blaster, so been reading on here about a good beginner bike for myself, and started looking for xr250s. I ended up a project 1994 xr250r, with a broken kick start return spring. (According to PO). He said he picked it up as a project himself but time got away from him. Many oil leaks on this thing during the time I did get it to fire... all valve adjustment caps on rocker cover, oil line fitting at oil cooler, all engine mount bolts loose, 2 hex caps on inside of cyl head by spark plug leak, missing rear brake pedal, kickstand. Also Found a pile of JB weld on clutch cover right above kickstart. (Covering g auto decompression shaft orifice).. I Pulled the cover, and find spring is not broken, but installed on opposite side of casting boss in crankcase. Auto decompression parts Missing in crankcase it seems as well?. Well after I pulled out kickstart shaft to reseat the spring, noticed a bolt was missing from bracket that mounts toward rear of engine and holds the tab on the kicker shaft... Started feeling around with a magnet through the crankcase looking for the missing bolt, and pulled this part out.. what am I dealing with here? Seems like I may need to pull motor and go through it huh... Can anyone ID this small piece and recommend where to go from here? Working with different cars over the years it almost looks like a relief valve plunger for the oil pump... Anybody confirm?
  9. Okay, so I bought this 2000 RM250, I've never done anything besides basic maintenance really, so I bought this to learn. Im not sure if im posting in the right place or not, if not forgive me, but I paid $200 for it, wasnt expecting much, he said he thought it needed carb work, but took off the top end and the piston has pock marks, and is shot, the cylinder looks clean, now the crank has play in it (vertically) so I was told the crankshaft needs replaced, on another forum, problem is I cant find a crank shaft, a complete bottom end, anything, closest I can find is a rod, and I can find top end kits all day long, also the swingarm bolt is seized, so advice on that would help also, so if anyone could point me in the right direction it would be appreciated, I found a 2002 bottom end on ebay but i'm not sure if it would work or not, but I bid on it since it was real cheap and something happened and ebay shut down my account, so any advice?
  10. Previous owner used some sort of nasty sealer on 2000 KTM 125 headgasket. Razor blade would not touch it beyond this. I had 2 headgaskets out of 5 heads that were stuck this bad. Suggestions?
  11. Hello everyone, I've been away from the forum for a bit, after I ran the DRZ into the ground and couldn't fix it until now. I've read through many posts about big bores, but most of them are aimed at max HP and things like that. I'm not looking to make 55HP, but my engine is done so it needs everything. I ran the bike on the highway for too long, didn't check levels properly, vaporised all the oil and ruined the engine. The big end is gone, the cilinder wall is worn, the cams and chains are worn and even the valves are having issues. I ran it for a while with all these problems, since I had not other transport. Gotta love a bike on a budget.... For the last few weeks I've been looking for big bore kits and info on them. I want to build a DRZ that does a bit better on the highway, has more power overall but want it underpowered and overbuilt. Towards 50HP would be nice, but not a requirement. My budget is decent, but not endless, which gives me a problem: there are soooooo many brands and styles around, I can't see the forest through the trees. The prices differ immensely, as does quality. On top of that there are setups that just run on race gas, which I can't over here, so I'm looking for a streetable setup. Since I live in the Netherlands, Europe, I have to ship everything over, and to save money in the long run I would rather spend a bit more initially and get it right, instead of getting three different kits. Its a 2005 SM with a stock engine, I will get: Big Bore cilinder (not set on cc's, but looking around the 470 range) Piston Stroker crank/rod (crank is most likely done) Cams (don't need super hectic lift and duration) ACT gears Carb (39 or 41) All the consumables and bearings Its fitted with a Leovinci 3X, have the 3x3 mod, valve and other smog stuff is removed. Not a brand fanboy specifically, I've looked at and could find out about them: MaxRPM, both IceCube and the Stealth, looks great but pricey. CilinderWorks, not sure what their quality is but they're cheap. Athena, mixed reviews and medium pricing. HotRods cranks, famous name but no idea on durability. HotCams & Web Cams, I don't have a preference, whichever gets me the best cam. And a bunch of brandless cilinders, packaged with branded items. Impossible to find out what the level of quality is. Who can help me out on deciding on this setup? More top speed, more power over the whole range, but rather have less power and more reliability than maximum RPM. I know the best solution is OEM, but since I'm building it, I might as well add to it.
  12. I took the clutch off of my RM250 and when I spin the rod/inner hub it seems to be getting caught on a gear or something?!
  13. Hello Last year i came across a awesome deal for a 2001 cr125r that had a lot of parts missing for $300. The perfect canvas for a bike build. I have had it sitting in the corner of my garage collecting dust and i have finally decided to give it the love it deserves. Due to the corona virus i wont be able to travel this year so i have decided to spend the money that i would of spend on a skii trip in Canada and Alaska into a race bike for the next motocross season. The bike currently consists of the following: *seat, sub frame and chassis. *bottom end that is missing water pump cover, intake system, engine covers, some clutch components and electrical system. * front and rear suspension including swingarm and tripple clamps (im upgrading the swingarm, linkage and rear brake system that came off a 2009 crf450r) I have so far purchased a full 1997 cr125r hpp top end including cylinder, head and power valve assembly and power valve covers. I still need to find a power valve governor, actuator arm and head stay brackets. I am planing on sending it off to Eric Gorr to punch it out to a 144cc bore that will use the yz144 piston, match the transfer ports to the 2001 cases, port it out for more mid to top end power, increase the width of the exhaust bridge to increase cylinder durability, compression ratio to run on 91 octane even tho i can buy 98 octane in Australia (i have had a bad history with detonation issues in the past) i have so far managed to get my shopping cart total to $3k Aud on engine parts alone on bikebandit .com🙈 Im gonna pretty much do a full frame up restoration replacing every bearing and upgrading as many parts as i can with more modern/aftermarket parts off newer cr’s and crf’s. While trying to make it look like a late 90’s early 2000’s factory race bike. I want it to be a very unique bike that no one has ever built before. Updates to this post may take a while as i work away on a iron ore mine doing a 2:1 week rosters. im still doing lots of research on the best mods so your feedback will be greatly appreciated. And also shipping parts to Australia takes forever!! Hope some of you enjoy my new bike build. Feel free to ask me any questions. cheers 🤙
  14. The motor seized up on me 2 hours after a top end rebuild. I’m having trouble finding parts or pricing for a full bottom and top rebuild on a 2002 KTM 300 MXC. Has anyone found or rebuilt one of these bikes recently?
  15. I bought my first dirtbike, a 2009 kx250f last season for around $2k. The third time I went riding I let a buddy ride it for a few minutes and it seemingly out of nowhere died and seized up. I just recently took it to a shop and they told me that the piston welded itself to the crankcase. They quoted me around $3500 to completely rebuild with the parts list attached. Is it even worth doing at this point? Or would I be better served buying another bike. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but haven't worked on dirtbikes before so I am unsure whether this is something I could tackle in my garage, also the price of parts is still more than I paid for the bike.
  16. Sup everyone, I have just finished a rebuild on my AER 48s. For about 10 hours of riding the fork fully returned to its open position (fully rebounded). Then, all out of a sudden, it wont fully rebound. Any clues?
  17. i was wondering if anybody knows of some good relatively cheap top end rebuild kits for a 2004 rmz 250 cheers.
  18. Hey y'all, First post here, and it's been a tad while. I had another account a while back, but can't get back into it. Oh well. Anyways... I need a little bit of help. I'm in a tight place. I've had this 1970 Honda ct90 trail bike. Been in the family forever, excellent condition, low miles, used to run great... Until we took it to a shop and explicitly told them to change the air cleaner out among other things (the filter was old and crumbling and wasn't doing much good regardless). Well, they didn't change it and the engine over time sucked in a bunch of that old foam. We didn't notice anything wrong until smoke started coming out the pipe. So we broke down and did a top end (just the rings) and yes, changed that air cleaner out the right way. We got the parts from a dealership (big mistake-they gave us the wrong piston rings) and threw it together. More smoke than before. So we broke down again and tore it apart for a second time, more meticulously this time. We bored the cylinder and put a new piston and rings. Yes, the correct ones this time. .025 over. Put it together, fired it up...and lo and behold, more smoke than ever before. Clouds of the stuff. We were frustrated, but not as frustrated as when we did it extremely meticulously for a third time and got the same result. Checked the cylinder, dead on. checked the rings in the bore, dead on. Clocked the rings. Symbols on all three rings facing up (is it any other way?) and this time, replaced the valve seal and both valves. Ground new seats. Just to be absolutely sure. Oddly enough, this bike does not have an oil seal for the intake valve, I checked it twice. Still smokes like the dickens. Well folks, my first rebuild and maybe my last. Could I just have gotten two sets of bad rings? I must have done something wrong, but I just can't think of what. Rings and seals replaced. If you could offer some cycle wisdom, it would be greatly appreciated.
  19. Attn all engine builders... I have a 2015 YZ250FX with 200 hours. Replacing the top end and cam chain right now. I checked gaps and play on the rod and crank and found the following: ✅ Gap between rod and crank is within spec. Tiniest side to side sliding movement along lower bearing ❓ Rod does seem to rock side to side (not just slide side to side) when pushing sideways at the little end. No spec on this, not sure what is acceptable (very tiny, hard to even detect) ✅ Rod does NOT have any play whatsoever up and down on the crank. (no click or perceivable movement when pulling/pushing rod against crank lower bearing) ✅ Crank has no play whatsoever when pushing the shaft in/out of the case, side to side (bearings seem ok in this regard) ✅ Crank (from the flywheel side) shows no play whatsoever moving forward and back, horizontal. (no tension applied by cam chain, of course) ‼️ Crank DOES show a very tiny but perceivable amount of play vertical, up/down within the case (at TDC, and when I rotate it 90 deg from TDC, the play is still only up/down, does not follow the orientation of the crank, is always vertical relative to the case) Pic illustrates what I mean. Green arrow all good, no play in this direction. Red is the vertical play I am detecting. So everything seems to check out except that last bit - has me worried for sure. I could not find my dial caliper to measure exact play, but in the meantime... How much play is acceptable here, if any? (is this normal?). How can there be play in only ONE direction on a round bearing? Does this mean my case has a problem? What is the likely cause? ack!
  20. So while I’m waiting on parts (and to help pay for them) for my 1984 XR200R, I’ve bought a couple of non-running Chinese scooters got them running and flipped them. One of the scooters which was sold to me as a 50cc but was actually a detuned 150cc I decided to trade for something I’ve been wanting to “dual sporterize” for awhile now.... a baby Ninja. Or as I call them Chinja! These are the scooters built in the shape of Ninjas. The Dongfang version I have is a nice platform to convert to an ADV scooter for my son. My plan? Install a big bore kit (already have that and a 22mm carb), remove all over engineered under-performing air filter and emissions stuff/cap off the PAIR. Remove the junk plastics because the frame looks ‘Ffffing’ sharp! New Renthal bars. Two large barrel headlights . Scooter knobbies 130/60-13. Then figure out a new color scheme. For color scheme... what do you think? yes that’s my vintage Interceptor in the background. ?
  21. 2009 YZF250 - Ex Dixon bike with the wet sump conversion. Stuck a bunch of quality hours on this thing the other weekend doing some enduro practice. Didn't skip a beat! Changed out the oil and filter, putoline - 850ml with filter change as recommended by someone off the dixon facebook page. Fresh airfilter. Didn't start it for a few days after the oil change as was late at night after service, warmed it up at trackside this weekend with no issues to get the oil flowing, checked pressure by removing the bolt, all fine... Killed it. Came back to the bike about 15 mins later started fine, rode literally about 100m (wasn't hanging around but not going mad) and she just died under load, instant death. I believe it locked up, hard to recall. Didn't feel right either-way, i've had bikes flame out on me (CRF450) and this was a bit different. Bike started OK afterwards, I sat there with it on idle for about 10 seconds, all good, gave it some throttle and it just came to an abrupt stop again, almost made a squeak when it stopped. Rolled back to pits, checked oil filter, was fully soaked, everything looked fine, rads weren't exactly hot but i'd only been riding for a short period, head was pretty hot to touch, crank didn't seem that hot - but then again i've never touched an engine after 4 minutes of running so I've no idea what sort of temp it should be haha. Bike started again fine after little inspection, idled OK. Sounded sweet, no rattles or bangs. Started to give it some throttle, rolling the revs and it just came to a screeching stop again. Kicked it in anger and it hasn't started again since. Gave it a little strip down last night, took valve cover off, all looks normal, valves are in spec still, took the carb off and had a look down the inlet, small little bits of something foreign in there and the tiniest of metal slivers sitting ontop of one of the valves. (By this point i'd already dropped oil and filter for inspection, nothing that looked out of place) Now the bike kicks over OK. Its never had the strongest of compression on kick, but its been a while since i've had a 250F. it does 'get hard' at certain points but its pretty easy to kick through these hard points normally just body weight will do it. Can any of you advise on moving forwards, i'm going to remove head and cylinder for inspection but i've never dug this deep into an engine before haha! Any thoughts or tips on things to look out for? Bike has a spark I should add, not that this really felt like a lack of ignition.
  22. Hi all, I am new to this forum and didn't find a page for XR500's so I figured this page will be the closest thing. Let me know if there is a different forum to which I should be posting. I recently acquired a 1984 XR500R for $200. The bike wasn't running and definitely wasn't in the best of shape. Covered in grime, no compression, etc... Anyways I am completely overhauling the bike. New paint, new parts, engine rebuild, everything. However, I have never attempted a complete engine rebuild. I figure an older bike like this would be a good start to learning my way around engines and a fun side project for me. I just wanted to get people's opinions. Should I attempt the entire rebuild myself? What all would that require? Or if I want the bike to actually run again, am I better off just having a shop rebuild it?? The guy I bought the bike from obviously neglected it after it lost compression. He claims he was riding it on the highway and the compression blew out as he was riding. Told me it only needs a gasket job and it will run strong again. Any hints or tips would be really appreciated! I love this community and really want to be apart of it! (And yes the bike is in terrible shape in the picture I posted, I will post updated pictures of what I have accomplished so far soon)
  23. Hi! I'm thinking about buying an 03' CR250 and the seller did a rebuild, new piston, pro circuit exhaust, new crank, carburetor, spark plug, all new bearings and some other smaller things (seals etc.), on the picture bellow you can really see she's a beauty... okay so the problem is that after the rebuild the bike goes into false neutral every couple of shifts eg. every 10 min of riding. It didn't do that before the rebuild so any ideas? Also the bike is selling for $1450 and the price isn't final so that's why I'm so interested. Thanks in advance, ulajemuzica
  24. So I've 3d printed the crank truing stand, I'll upload that to thingiverse soon, may make some improvements first. It uses skate bearings. The crank is well within spec. maybe .04mm max at the very ends of the crankshaft. I've never trued a crank before, this is my first time measuring one even. The manual shows where to measure it. I'm curious if it's even worth the trouble to try and get it perfect, probably not obtainable. Obviously I can't smack the crank on these PLA stands
  25. Hey guys, I have an 09 kx250f That I just fully rebuilt.....new crank, new bearings, new cylinder, new piston and rings with stock compression ratio, new cam chain, 2 new OEM intake valves, reshimmed, timing is 100% correct...and i still cant get it to fire up! Took the whole carb apart and cleaned it...used carb cleaner and compressed air. Still nothing. Then I noticed that when I slowly push down on the kick starter I hear air leaking from the air filter. ...but ONLY when the choke is on. When the choke is off, no air leaking. Note- i did adjust the timing one tooth over on the exhaust side and see what that does....still nothing! Just trial and error. That couldnt have damaged any valves correct?? I put timing back and still nothing new. Maybe I need to rejet? What jets are you guys running? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks
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