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Found 118 results

  1. hey guys, first post but i need some help on the bottom end of my kx 80 picked it up of craigslist... good price but needed a full rebuild. can anyone help with the fact that i have the motor apart and everthing neatly aranged. now everthing replaced good to go. stuck a little on the re sealing this bottom end. is it ok if i use just black rtv on the case. instead of doing a cosmetic bottom end gasket kit. i would just use rtv and seal it like that. would that be ok or do i really need the paper gaskets. thanks alot any info will help
  2. Hello all! This is my first post so forgive me if I miss any formalities. Just got my hands on a 01 rm250, I have been running through the forums here looking for info but I feel that my need for information is too broad, probably because this is my first smoker. I'm a handy guy though so I feel that I shouldn't have many issues getting this thing in top shape (with a little help of course). The bike has a few small issues. First and foremost being that it is quite hard to start when cold. This I learned the hard way with no boots and a bruised foot. Second issue is there seems to be a bog mid throttle, its like it falls on its face right before it hits the band. Mods include a fmf shorty and vforce reeds. I have went through the carb and checked the reeds. One set of the reeds was really loose when I got them off so I snugged those up and put it back together. This helped some. I have been through the forums many times, the issue is I don't see many 01s with these issues and im unsure of the model changes through the years. Will post pics when I get off work. Thanks for any insight.
  3. Hello everyone, I've been away from the forum for a bit, after I ran the DRZ into the ground and couldn't fix it until now. I've read through many posts about big bores, but most of them are aimed at max HP and things like that. I'm not looking to make 55HP, but my engine is done so it needs everything. I ran the bike on the highway for too long, didn't check levels properly, vaporised all the oil and ruined the engine. The big end is gone, the cilinder wall is worn, the cams and chains are worn and even the valves are having issues. I ran it for a while with all these problems, since I had not other transport. Gotta love a bike on a budget.... For the last few weeks I've been looking for big bore kits and info on them. I want to build a DRZ that does a bit better on the highway, has more power overall but want it underpowered and overbuilt. Towards 50HP would be nice, but not a requirement. My budget is decent, but not endless, which gives me a problem: there are soooooo many brands and styles around, I can't see the forest through the trees. The prices differ immensely, as does quality. On top of that there are setups that just run on race gas, which I can't over here, so I'm looking for a streetable setup. Since I live in the Netherlands, Europe, I have to ship everything over, and to save money in the long run I would rather spend a bit more initially and get it right, instead of getting three different kits. Its a 2005 SM with a stock engine, I will get: Big Bore cilinder (not set on cc's, but looking around the 470 range) Piston Stroker crank/rod (crank is most likely done) Cams (don't need super hectic lift and duration) ACT gears Carb (39 or 41) All the consumables and bearings Its fitted with a Leovinci 3X, have the 3x3 mod, valve and other smog stuff is removed. Not a brand fanboy specifically, I've looked at and could find out about them: MaxRPM, both IceCube and the Stealth, looks great but pricey. CilinderWorks, not sure what their quality is but they're cheap. Athena, mixed reviews and medium pricing. HotRods cranks, famous name but no idea on durability. HotCams & Web Cams, I don't have a preference, whichever gets me the best cam. And a bunch of brandless cilinders, packaged with branded items. Impossible to find out what the level of quality is. Who can help me out on deciding on this setup? More top speed, more power over the whole range, but rather have less power and more reliability than maximum RPM. I know the best solution is OEM, but since I'm building it, I might as well add to it.
  4. stobjohn

    Blown engine

    I have a xr 200 r its ran like a champ for the past five years but started smoking about a year ago and burning oil ive heard there are tricks such as pouring coke or diesel down the heads and letting it soak in to help solve it smoking is there anything else or would this work thank you.
  5. 2008 crf250r, in the process of finishing up a top end rebuild, and after installing the timing chain onto the cam I deciding to hand crank the engine slowly with the kickstart to see if everything was alright. There is a distinct knock that sounds like it is coming from somewhere in the cylinder each time I turn the engine over. What would be causing this sound?
  6. Taylorross

    1985 XR600R REBUILD PART 2

    Hello Thumpertalk, This thread will document the repair and assembly of my 85 xr600r. It's been a while so i thought id start a new thread. You can find the original thread here. Here we go! Showing the manual and C1 Gear high and low boss sides. below is the lower boss side. these were on backwards when i took them out if i remember correctly, would explain neutral to first and first to 2nd shifting slippage Blue ink is oem parts fiche diagram#'s Below is the Higher boss side C1 Same with C2 below. Higher boss side Lower boss side C2 below with the worst of the damage on any of the gear dog mating holes (please let me know the correct engineering term because that cant be correct Worst of the wear on any of the gear dogs Finished Main shaft and my brand new circlip/snap-ring pliers. excited to use these babies in the future on my next project (yes I'm already thinking of another one) Workbench Holy Clearance Specs Batman! Used Micrometer. All good. Wash Bin Completed Transmission!! Crankshaft and connecting rod. Falicon Rod In the shop right now getting cleaned straightened and pressed together. Couldn't resist a picture with my firefighter hat! Cleaning cases Masking Cases Primer and Paint start to finish in my super professional homemade painting booth Tape Off That's it for now! Going back to work tomorrow. Will Post pics next week of pressed crankshaft. Maybe paint other engine covers. Need to order Shift Drum pieces and have all the bearings pressed in Thanks guys! P.S. Please let me know if you see anything wrong or have any suggestions. HAPPY 4TH OF JULY!!
  7. Hey, new member here, my name is Josh. Been looking to get on a bike as I'm growing tired of only having the blaster, so been reading on here about a good beginner bike for myself, and started looking for xr250s. I ended up a project 1994 xr250r, with a broken kick start return spring. (According to PO). He said he picked it up as a project himself but time got away from him. Many oil leaks on this thing during the time I did get it to fire... all valve adjustment caps on rocker cover, oil line fitting at oil cooler, all engine mount bolts loose, 2 hex caps on inside of cyl head by spark plug leak, missing rear brake pedal, kickstand. Also Found a pile of JB weld on clutch cover right above kickstart. (Covering g auto decompression shaft orifice).. I Pulled the cover, and find spring is not broken, but installed on opposite side of casting boss in crankcase. Auto decompression parts Missing in crankcase it seems as well?. Well after I pulled out kickstart shaft to reseat the spring, noticed a bolt was missing from bracket that mounts toward rear of engine and holds the tab on the kicker shaft... Started feeling around with a magnet through the crankcase looking for the missing bolt, and pulled this part out.. what am I dealing with here? Seems like I may need to pull motor and go through it huh... Can anyone ID this small piece and recommend where to go from here? Working with different cars over the years it almost looks like a relief valve plunger for the oil pump... Anybody confirm?
  8. Okay, so I bought this 2000 RM250, I've never done anything besides basic maintenance really, so I bought this to learn. Im not sure if im posting in the right place or not, if not forgive me, but I paid $200 for it, wasnt expecting much, he said he thought it needed carb work, but took off the top end and the piston has pock marks, and is shot, the cylinder looks clean, now the crank has play in it (vertically) so I was told the crankshaft needs replaced, on another forum, problem is I cant find a crank shaft, a complete bottom end, anything, closest I can find is a rod, and I can find top end kits all day long, also the swingarm bolt is seized, so advice on that would help also, so if anyone could point me in the right direction it would be appreciated, I found a 2002 bottom end on ebay but i'm not sure if it would work or not, but I bid on it since it was real cheap and something happened and ebay shut down my account, so any advice?
  9. 2009 YZF250 - Ex Dixon bike with the wet sump conversion. Stuck a bunch of quality hours on this thing the other weekend doing some enduro practice. Didn't skip a beat! Changed out the oil and filter, putoline - 850ml with filter change as recommended by someone off the dixon facebook page. Fresh airfilter. Didn't start it for a few days after the oil change as was late at night after service, warmed it up at trackside this weekend with no issues to get the oil flowing, checked pressure by removing the bolt, all fine... Killed it. Came back to the bike about 15 mins later started fine, rode literally about 100m (wasn't hanging around but not going mad) and she just died under load, instant death. I believe it locked up, hard to recall. Didn't feel right either-way, i've had bikes flame out on me (CRF450) and this was a bit different. Bike started OK afterwards, I sat there with it on idle for about 10 seconds, all good, gave it some throttle and it just came to an abrupt stop again, almost made a squeak when it stopped. Rolled back to pits, checked oil filter, was fully soaked, everything looked fine, rads weren't exactly hot but i'd only been riding for a short period, head was pretty hot to touch, crank didn't seem that hot - but then again i've never touched an engine after 4 minutes of running so I've no idea what sort of temp it should be haha. Bike started again fine after little inspection, idled OK. Sounded sweet, no rattles or bangs. Started to give it some throttle, rolling the revs and it just came to a screeching stop again. Kicked it in anger and it hasn't started again since. Gave it a little strip down last night, took valve cover off, all looks normal, valves are in spec still, took the carb off and had a look down the inlet, small little bits of something foreign in there and the tiniest of metal slivers sitting ontop of one of the valves. (By this point i'd already dropped oil and filter for inspection, nothing that looked out of place) Now the bike kicks over OK. Its never had the strongest of compression on kick, but its been a while since i've had a 250F. it does 'get hard' at certain points but its pretty easy to kick through these hard points normally just body weight will do it. Can any of you advise on moving forwards, i'm going to remove head and cylinder for inspection but i've never dug this deep into an engine before haha! Any thoughts or tips on things to look out for? Bike has a spark I should add, not that this really felt like a lack of ignition.
  10. Previous owner used some sort of nasty sealer on 2000 KTM 125 headgasket. Razor blade would not touch it beyond this. I had 2 headgaskets out of 5 heads that were stuck this bad. Suggestions?
  11. Dillon Downing

    Yz400f crankshaft fit in wr400f?

    Hello, I was rebuilding my bottom end in my 1999 wr400 because the crankshaft broke on it. Bought a 1998 yz400 crank to put in it and after measuring them, the can chain timing gear on the crank is ~0.5mm different between the two along the shaft. The rod bearings on the yz are also bigger but that shouldn't be an issue. Should I be ok or do I need to buy a wr specific crank off of fleabay? Thanks for the responses!
  12. So I am currently working on a 1997 CR125 and plan to make a full race build on it. But I have been noticing that there are not very many aftermarket parts the biggest being the plastics and graphics for it due to the frame,tank,sub frame, etc. I was wondering if its possible to put that engine into a CR125 frame anywhere from 98-07 and how hard that would be to do. I have a welder but I am not confident enough to weld new motor mounts. If you guys could help me out with this that would be great.
  13. I need to do the forks on: 2012 WR450F 2007 YZ250 Is there a trick to getting the compression damper piece out without that special fork cap tool? Heres what im talking about: 2012 WR450F 2007 YZ250 I rebuilt a pair of AOS forks with no special tools but I think the compression body came out with a 17mm socket. It was off a 2008 KLX450, I'm PRETTY sure top looked like this: Maybe someone can verify that 2008 KLX450R forks have that style of top cap. I cant remember and the bike is not in my possession atm. I dont like buying model specific tools so if there is a trick to getting those compression caps off let me know!
  14. dillysadv

    Rebuild - What to Replace and What Not?

    I have looked all over and cannot find a good accurate resource out there. I recently decided that it was time to tear into my 1990 DR350S. (suzuki) it would not run reliably or really at all anymore and I found that the compression was only about 80PSI. After tearing into the motor I found that overall it was in pretty good shape.. the Oil ring was stuck inside the piston so that it was not sealing well and it appeared that the valves may not have been seating well. Really I figure I can re-grind or re-seat the valves, replace the top end gaskets and piston rings and it should be good.. what I am wanting to know is how do you know if you should replace more (valves, timing chain, ect..) I do have a strong Mechanical background but have never liked or done much engine internals.. any advice would be greatly appreciated. I do have pictures of the valves.. you can see them here https://goo.gl/NH76kw... let me know if that does not work and I can copy them to this post.
  15. lukerpm

    kx250f not starting after rebuild

    Hi guys. I have a 2011 fuel injected kx250f. I just put a new piston in it and adjusted the camshafts and valve shims. they are all adjusted perfectly in spec. I have put the bike back together now and have been trying to start it all day. It has spark and compression. However you can hear air coming back out the air filter when kicking it over. every around 10 kicks it backfires but doesn't start. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  16. Hey Guys. I have a Honda XR 250r 1999 that i have just rebuilt. I got the piston and barrel done in a shop along with the valves. The bike is running well but has a issue with burning oil. The decompression valve on the engine was jammed but we managed to free it up but the bike has lacked compression since it was freed. I have no issue starting the bike but would a broken/stuck decompression valve be a reason behind the burning of the oil and lack of compression? I started with a synthetic oil but was advised to use a mineral so did a oil change and now have 20w-50 mineral in the bike but have seen no change.
  17. Hey all, after a busy summer of school and work I've finally carved out some time to replace my busted countershaft. After reviewing several threads about the kickstart addition, I decided this would be my chance to have a kickstart/easy button combo bike. Luckily enough I found a '95 XR600R basket case with a blown head but very useable bottom end with all the kicker bits I need! Pulled out the engine last night and now I need a little bit of sagely advice from the wise folks here at TT: First, I need a gasket set for the rebuild, will Winderosa/Mooseracing be okay, or should I only put in OEM gaskets? Also, I'll be splitting both cases this week to get all the parts out and begin putting them in the L, but is there anything specifically I should be looking out for when inspecting the donor parts? Any tips on splitting the cases in general? Finally, I know there's been a handful of people who have done this mod, and I know everything fits into place in the L bottom end nicely, but has anyone had any strange issues? This bike will be carrying myself and some gear to Baja this winter for ~3 weeks and it needs to be dead reliable, or at least as reliable as it was last year in baja. Thanks to everyone on the boards who has helped me out thus far, the kickstart add on threads are very helpful! I should say, this is my first complete tear down so any advice/tips are very welcome! Here's a pic of the engines out on bench:
  18. Hi all first post on TT. Thanks in advance for all the help. I have already learned so much from this form. So I have been into 4 strokes for a while now but I just purchased my girlfriend a ktm 200exc and thought it would be good to get a project 2 stroke to learn how they work so I found a 1990 kx125 with a seized motor for $300.00 I have it all pulled apart, and will be splitting the case tomorrow. So I know I need a new piston, rod, bearings, and a re-plate on the cylinder. The rod it somewhat seized on the crank bearing. I am wondering what I need to check to see if I can re use the crank or if I need a new one? Is it as simple as checking run out and excessive wear or are there other things to check? Any help would be appreciated. I can post pictures and more details. If anyone is interested I can post a full build thread. I plan to go through everything clean, replace, paint, refurbish, everything to new. Hope to keep the build under $1200 total. I'm at $300 with the bike. We will see. Cost might get out of hand.
  19. Is it a wise or a waste of money to replace all the bearings, even if they are in spec? I have the engine apart to replace piston, rings, cam chain. It is a 2001 XR400 that was in great shape before being stolen 1.5 years ago. I recently recovered it and while it started up it took a lot more kicks than it used to. Used to start up 2 or 3 kick all the time. Checked compression and it was at the border of ok.
  20. Rabbit22


    I had to split my cases and I am putting everything back on my klx110. I was wondering if my kickstarter's gear should be able o move if it is installed correctly? Right now the gearbox shaft is locked up along with the kickstarter. The manual is terrible at giving details. I put the kickstarter in but I'm not sure the metal tang is behind that metal piece. Again the manual doesnt say. Thanks for any help.
  21. nick andrist

    kx250 98 Kx250 Rebuild Help

    Hello everyone I want to start out with I bought the bike a couple days ago and started the year down. When I bought the bike the kick start didn't move an inch so I figured it was seized. I started the tear down of the top end and I will included pictures to show you what I found. A piece of the piston broken off. I'm not to sure what my next step is. With this happening is the crank garbage too or is it still ok. with this happening the top end is in great shape I'm just scared of the bottom end. So many questions. Thank you for replying
  22. I just bought this bike and decided to go through it and make sure everything was happy. I was cleaning out the carb today, following the great video posted by Rocky Mountain ATV MC. Everything was going great until I was cleaning the bowl with carb cleaner and noticed these two SMALL pieces in the bottom. I have no idea where these go. The service manual doesn't show them. The video doesn't mention them. Do you guys know where they belong? Thank you! Note: Fuel screw is just to show you relative scale of these pieces.
  23. Connor Wright

    Engine OIL coming through air box

    Hey I have a crf250x 2005 I was riding today in top gear flat out and when I slowed down blue smoke just poured out the exsaughst then I happened to open the air box lid and saw it has what looked like engine oil in it then took out air filter and noticed that there was splatters of engine oil on the inside and that and the channel that goes to the carby had engine oil all over it. Also bike got a top end rebuild 15 hours ago The engine still runs good and sounds normal why would this be happening on a resonabley fresh engine
  24. Just wondering if anyone else has had trouble getting their primary drive gear on a new crankshaft. Just seems to be tight when I line the missing splines up. If I could just lightly tap it on with a hammer. Curious if they are just a tight fit. Slides on my old crank no problem. New crank is an oem and old one is a hot rods
  25. SkInM4n

    2004 CRF80F problem

    So my son was riding his 2004 CRF80F around yesterday and had a major mechanical failure. I am unsure of the issue so I am going to post it here before I start the tear-down tomorrow. He was riding around hauling balls, as usual, and he said he heard a metal "clank" noise from the engine. Being the 14 year old that he is he kept ripping it and a couple of minutes later went OTB. The bike starts and runs but wont shift at all and when I clutch in and push it the bike only rolls a couple of feet before the rear wheel locks up. I have never experienced anything like this so any assistance would be appreciated. Unless I can spot something externally during the initial stages or get some definitive answer on here I will begin the tear down tomorrow. I will keep the thread updated on my progress so maybe it will help someone in the future. Thanks in advance, Skin