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Found 7 results

  1. Hello there, im having a very interesting issue with my rebuilt 2001 honda cr250r. I got the bike in a box in peices 5 months ago and rebuilt the motor since 5th gear lost a tooth from the previous owner. Motor was properly rebuilt using two different manuals and making sure everything was in its correct place and orientation. New pro x piston and hotrods crank. The issue I'm having is after getting everything back together in the bike and trying to start it up, the bike will not idle or run below around 1500rpm. I can fully rev the bike out and get a lot of power from the midrange and top end, but if I let off the gas and get into the lower rpms it dies out quickly and can't catch the rpms from falling. Now, after messing with the air screw, timing, and stator assembly I figured out that with having barely any air gap (pretty much touching) between the flywheel and pick up coil the bike runs as described above. But when I set the air gap to the recommended 0.18mm air gap the bike will be able to idle for a few seconds and probably can be adjusted to idle fine, but anything after 1500 rpms it just dies out and will not Rev out. Seems like either no air gap and the bike will be able to run fine but no idle or low end, or if at recommended air gap the bike will be OK in the low end and idle but absolutely no mid to top end. I'm confused and stumped with this. I've been working on dirtbikes full time for over 5 years and this is a dewsey. I have a brand new genuine pwk38 air striker carb, new v force 3 reeds, new stator, spark plug, silencer, air filter. I'm at sea level running a 45 pilot and 175 main on clip #3. I will be trying a smaller pilot soon to see if that fixes the idle/ low end problem. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice on this problem 🤙🏻.
  2. Wondering if I can reuse the head bolts for this bike or if I have to get new ones every time i rebuild the top end? its a 2008 CRF250R
  3. Bought a 2005 crf450r and it ran and idled high when i bought it. I rebuilt the carburetor change oil and tranny put a new filter and spark plug and now it wont kick starts. It occasionally backfires when i try to kick it and it sounds like it wants to start but wont. It bump starts sometimes and other it shoots a flame out the exhaust and backfires. Do i need to shim the valves?
  4. Just curious on how many hours do you usually run a piston? Or just how hard you ride
  5. Heyo! I thought i would take the time to ask the experts this which would be best to put on a custom build. Heres a little more info. The project bike is a Honda xr650l that is being built into a neo-retro scrambler. The plan for the front end is to convert to USD forks since the stock ones are trash and it wold give it more of a fresh look. Currently i own a pair of 2001 crf250 forks (showa 47mm) that i picked up for cheap. Right now there is a pair of 2013 yz250f KYB forks (and triple clamps) for sale near me. I dont know his price yet but it shouldnt be too much more than what i paid for the crf forks. Considering that with which ever fork i choose to go with they will have to be rebuilt, revalved and dropped by a professional shop, which for option would be the better choice? The project bike is mostly a city commuter with the occasional weekend trail riding. It shouldnt be going through anything too intense (except for driving on Montreal roads). Thanks in advance for any help! K
  6. Hello guys, this is my first post on here as I am in need of some help, I have been following these threads for a long time now because they contain very useful information. nut i have never made a post of my own because I have normally been able to find the answers to my questions in existing threads. anyways, I have just finished rebuilding my 2002 Cr250, i used the crank that was already in it and just replaced the crank bearings,crank seals, all external oil seals, as well as sending my cylinder off to millineum technologies for a bore a re nicaseal of the cylinder(back to stock bore) as well as replacing the piston with a wiseco Pro-Lite piston(I drilled the holes for the exhaust bridge as I have always done).( a new OEM cylinder head was put on as well) so here's my problem, I believe my damage to the top end was due to air leaks thus a lean burn down of the top end. I have gone through my break-in procedure and done 4 heat cycles and then an idle run through of the gears. today I did a half throttle and then an about 3/4 throttle pull through the gears. the bike felt like it ran good and had good power except it felt like it fell a little flat in the top peak of the RPM(so there's problem number 1) my second issue is after these pulls the silencer and pipe silencer joint were covered in spooge.(i know a bit of spooge is to be expected after full days worth of riding but not after a 10 minute run through of the gears) the spooge problem led me to believe that the jetting was the issue and that the bike falling a liittle flat high in the rpms and the spooge were connected(i have a stock mikuni carb with the recomended jetting for a pro circuit pipe 380 main, 32.5 pilot stock needle on 3rd clip position)(i was running a 340 main and 30 pilot before the rebuild but i felt like that was a little lean) i then pulled the plug and looked at all of it and the coloration of the porselin is leading me to beleive the jetting is lean(even on stock jetting and 4 sizes up on the main from where i used to be) the plug looking lean scares me a tad as this is what i fekt like caused my top end failure before. so i really need help from the jettng gurus here that can give me good info attached are pictures of the plug,spooge and new top end any help would be appreciated, i would like to fix the spooge problem and the falling flat feeling high in the rpm, i just put alot of money into this motor and i want to do it right to prevent andy further problems.
  7. I recently rebuilt a 2008 kxf250 over a long period, the bike ran fine was a bit hard to start and couldn’t work out the problem, after cleaning the carb spotless and putting it back together was a little better but wouldn’t run for long. Then it slipped it’s time chain and died after examining the bike again I found the rings spacing weren’t properly split around the piston. Thinking it may have hydrauliced? I took the head off, honed it new rings on, put it back together, the timing is perfect the shims are bang on but I still can not get it to start. It will kick over fine and back fire or run for a second then die! It’s driving me crazy, does the engine need to come back out? Or is it as easy as a new spark plug ? The plug seems fine and still has spark !!! Someone please help!!!!
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