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Found 11 results

  1. Hello all, I know this is a highly debated topic and one that has probably been discussed at great length. I apologize in advance for opening up this can of worms. Unfortunately, when I have done searches both on this forum and google, virtually all the threads I have read are old (2004-2010, maybe 1 thread from 2011'). I have not seen anything (2013-2017) regarding this topic. I think with progression of engineering that reliability on both 2 strokes and 4 strokes on 2014 + bikes is vastly superior of that of 2004-2010 bikes. (maybe I am wrong....) My background: I had a Yamaha RT 100 and TTR 125L back in the day (my only dirt experience). Then ended up with a GSXR 750 after college, then a KTM 690 SMC supermoto, CBR 600 track bike, and then a Husqvarna 701 Supermoto. So I am not new to motorcycles but my knowledge of dirtbikes and dirt riding is pretty limited. Obviously coming from a street bike the maintenance and service intervals are substantially different than a dirtbike. Hell, even my track bike does not require all that much maintenance and I ride the crap out of that (change oil every few track days). I want to get a dirtbike that I can go ride some trails (I will probably just putt around) and occasional try and ride a MX track (I imagine I would be very slow. I road a MX track back with my TTR 125L but that sucked because it had no suspension- amongst other things). So while I do not need race bike power, I would like suspension capable of hitting some MX jumps. Hence why I do not want a trail bike like a TTR 230 or CRF 230. I want something that would be able to actually take some jumps if I get to that point (I at least want to try and progress to that point). My question is: Would a 2 stroke (no older than 2007') be easier/cheaper to maintain than a modern day 4 stroke (2012' +). I have read 2 strokes need a top end rebuilt every 20 hours. Some say 30 hours, and I have heard people not racing run 2 strokes for 60-80 hours without a rebuild. Then they say 4 strokes are full engine rebuilds when they go (and the cost of the actual pistons and rods are significantly higher on the 4 strokes?) I will be riding not nearly as hard as many people on here would. I understand the powerband difference and all of that. I am more concerned with wrench time and cost to ride over anything. P.S. Holy crap, people have their bikes overpriced on craigslist. I am trying to pick up a small bike for my fiance and I am seeing like 2004-2007 TTR 125L's for like $2,000- $2,200..... a 10-13 year old small displacement trail bike???
  2. I'm almost 17 and looking at getting my first dirt bike, not too powerful or expensive. Where I live there's only (at the moment) one CRF 150F for sale versus a lot of 150Rs. From what I have heard the 150F is way more reliable and cheaper to own. Is it actually a big difference or should I just get a 150R if I can't buy the 150F? also the bikes I've looked at are 2005-2006 around 1200-1400€.
  3. Hello fellow 2020 KTM 150 XC-W TPI owners! I am debating on whether I should purchase this bike over something else in the price bracket such as a YZ250FX. I am currently more interested in the 150 since it is lighter, potentially more fun/engaging, and the fact that I have never had a two-stroke before and would like to indulge in owning one. My main concerns though are maintenance and reliability. Since the TPI system is new for the 150, I don't know if it's financially applicable to purchase a bike with since it may be prone to failure. What I would helpful is if you could post your personal experience with KTM's TPI (specifically on the 150 XC-W if possible). Also, how does this system affect general two-maintenance such as top-end builds (how many hours I can put on a single top end with normal riding for a small bore two-stroke) and what kind of extra work is required to maintain the components that the TPI consists of? In addition to this, does the fuel injection system increase the wear of specific engine parts such as the piston or cylinder? Responses to these questions would be great! Thank you.
  4. Hey guys, so i'm a West coast 250C level rider. [Not a top 250C rider at all] and I currently ride a super clean 07 Crf250r. I'm looking to get a newer used 250f. Pretty much open to anything 2016 and up. I'm looking for the most reliable motor. I meticulously maintain my bikes but for some reason have not had alot of luck with my crf250r. I'm leaning more towards the KTM/Husky cause i've heard you can get well over 100 hours on the bottom ends compared to the 30 hours on a older Honda. What are ur guys opinions and experiences. Keep it civil.
  5. Hi. Im new to the thumpertalk, i've read many threads about reliability of 426 and so i became proud member of one made in 02. Traded it for beat up isuzu trooper... bike has blown up on second ride... I have a guy rebuild my whole engine. I was guided by this amazing site in choosing right parts and manufacturers. I have recently converted to street legal. And here is my question. How much life can i expect from this bike ? I change oil every 5 tanks, motul 7100 10w40 and clean air filter every couple of rides. I dont ride hard, mostly dirt road, some tarmac, single trails, etc... i know that this reliability thing has been talked over many, many times over and over. But since last tbread couple of years has past. And i cant stop wondering how do these dinosaurs hold up compared to new modern 450s and 500s, wr, exc, etc. And im also looking for advice about starting... i dont think i need autodecomp, i can find tdc easily, and i know the drill, bike is setup corectly. Problem is that im 168cm and 53kg... i can start it standing on the pegs, but when i dont have tree to support me, then no luck... i was thinking about making compresion little lower or something... what i havent found anywhere is info about autodecomp... will it just stop the bike at tdc +1 and thats it ? So it is just as hard to turn over as with manual decomp ? Thank you for advice. If is this in bad category, or is irelevant, please let me know, i will remove this post. As i said, this is my first post on TT. Ps: hats down for this amazing comunity you have here.
  6. Alright good news. Had saved up a bunch of money expecting to owe a significant amount for taxes.. Turns out I don't owe nearly as much!! Time to put the money to good use and build a nice performance motor for my drz. I am planning on doing a full 470 kit from ebay (Stage 2 cams, +4mm Crank, 94mm Piston/Jug) Has anybody else done this big of a displacement change? If so how bad will this hurt my reliability? I know it wont be nearly as reliable as stock, obviously.. just wanted to get a few opinions before I jump into ordering everything. Also, if I follow through with it I would be doing the MX39 carb swap. I am running a new Yoshi RS-2 full system, but will swap to MRD if it will make a significant difference. Thank you guys, Brad
  7. Hi, im new to this forum. I recently got me an NX650(euro), but i didnt check the bike properly before buying it. Found some faults driving it home. Welded sprocket and noisy 4th gear. 23K miles stock. Might be wrong forum, but its the same engine as xr650r if im not mistaken? This is my first rebuild, and it went somewhat bad. A couple of rounded allen bolts(rubber intake carb), bolt to head broke and rounded a allen when splitting the cases. Damages found so far - timing chain stretched, 4th gear broke, some scratches in cylinder, some scratches in oil pump, 4th gear broke. A lot of carbon build up in combustion chamber, guess oil have been burning. Cam and journal seems good. Rockers also seem good, hard to tell. Many pics, more upon request. Now that its teared down, i need some help with purchase list. I dont know what is smart to change while im rebuilding it. Im building bike for reliability - mainly commuting. Power is always welcome, but rather reliability. List; Poured some engine cleaner in combustion chamber and had it upside down over night. Valves didnt leak - guess they are OK? No need for re-seat? Is it necessary to change timing tensioner? Anymore seals or bearings i should change while im at it? Im guessing 4th gear breakdown is the reason for scratches in cylinder and oil pump. Found some metal parts. Why the exhaust valves have been running hot(white) is oil consumption due to scratches in cylinder? Teardown was "fun", looking forward to rebuild it and paint it. Ive done alot of research online, but feedback before rebuild is MUCH APPRECIATED.
  8. I've found what I think is a good buy on a brand new 2018 Beta 125 RR. I have no experience with these bike and normally stick to Japanese bikes for the easy parts sourcing and reliability. This bike checks a lot of boxes though. It's for my 13yr old son who will be coming off a 2017 KX100 that he's been ridding tracks and trails on for the last two years. The KX100 is way to small now and the Beta seems to be a great step up. I want to add the electric start kit and while Beta says it's a bolt on accessory I'm sure having a hard time getting anyone to respond with prices and all the parts needed. Can you guys comment on the 125RR in general? Is it reliable? Are Beta's reliable? How difficult is it to get parts? I'm looking to purchase from Franks Motorbikes in Bellevue. Thanks for any info.
  9. I'm currently looking at moving with work to Andalucia in Spain, just across the water from Morocco and am looking at building a new DRZ-400 into a Rally bike to take with me. I looked at getting a KTM or Husky or other 450cc, but the maintenance would be a killer, so my intent would be to build a DRZ-400 engine under 450cc which can put out a reliable 50+HP. The only must have's on this beast would be kickstart, a capacity smaller than 450cc to stay in the lightweight class and ability to work in hot n high environments. I'm guessing I'd build it using a set of wide gears? I get that the DR Rally bike will be heavier and I'll have to change a lot of the components like brakes and suspension to make it onto the same playing field as a KTM 450 EXC, but the key for me, is having a bike which means I can actually focus on the riding during a 4/5 day event and self deploy to the event, meaning I can start racking up experience. As well as Morrocan based rallies, I'd be looking at competing in the Rally Albania and Greek rallies and maybe getting off-road in the Sierra Nevada's. Thumper Hive Mind, hit me with your opinions and suggestions on how to achieve this goal.
  10. Hello everyone, I am a mid to upper level c rider in mx and currently have been riding a 2001 Honda cr250. Long story short I have been itching to try out a newer 250 four stroke. Must be fuel injected and I am hoping to find one with electric start. I have mainly been looking for a 2018+ crf250r or a 2019+ yz250f. My main concern with a four stroke is that I want it to last a long time before I have to do motor work. I am fully capable of doing full engine rebuilds so that’s not an issue. But what kind of hours can I expect on a top and bottom end on these bikes. my maintenance is extremely good. Filter and oil 5-6 hours. Air filter every ride. Keep stuff in good shape when I own it. Should I be worried about the horror stories that people have these bikes blowing up and grenading at 20 hours. I am mainly concerned with the reliability of a bike. This is why I like trusty old two strokes haha. Thanks for any information you can provide!
  11. For an entry level Trials bike, which would be more reliable: Montesa 315R, Scorpa SY-250, GasGas TXT 260? Assuming my budget is $2k-3k. I'm assuming that some of the drivetrain parts from Honda or Yamaha would work for the first two. A couple of weeks ago, there was a Montesa 315R on Facebook Trials Bikes For Sale group for $2500 about 6 hours away. Now I know, I should have got in my truck and started driving for it as soon as I saw the ad. Ken 86 VFR700 85 K100RT 91 XR250 97 XR100 70 CT70 06 YFM400 Past Bikes: 95 VLX600 86 TRX250 02 GZ250 83 Z50R 78 ATC90 86 XR250 79 XR500 72 AT1 75 YZ360 78 DT400 75 DT125 73 Trail 70 Dad's bikes I rode in high school 69 CL175K3 Scrambler 71 R5-B (RD350 predecessor)
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