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Found 15 results

  1. Hi, I was just wondering if anyone knows how to take the powervalve governor out of a KTM/Husqvarna 85. I’ve bought a new spring for it and I don’t know how to fit it, I’ve heard the spring is in the same spot as in the bigger KTM’s but after I take the cover off the bolt underneath (pictured) just keeps turning. Does anyone know? Thanks heaps.
  2. I have the cylinder completely apart and the right side power valve is stuck...it won’t come out. The left slid right out. I don’t want to damage anything. I sprayed some PB Blaster on it but still stuck (maybe that’s not the best for carbon). Thoughts?
  3. Does anyone know how to remove the rear brake “piston/plunger” that drives the movement of fluid in the master cylinder? Trying to replace mine as the seals are bad but for the life of me I cannot get it out. It is not threaded, there is no c-clip, it won’t fall out the bottom no matter how much I tap the sides, and I’ve even tried blowing compressed air down into the small hole at the bottom of the cylinder to see if it would blow out and it still wouldn’t budge. It will slide up just like it’s supposed to but will not come out the bottom for removal. Anyone have any tips on how I can remove this? Bike is a 2014 KTM 350 XC-F Thanks in advance!!! Photo is of the bottom of the master cylinder.
  4. I have a 2018 Fe 501. I’m curious about removing th emissions from these bikes and the ktm 500. Is there a performance gain by doing this? Is there anywhere anyone could direct me that has a detailed write up on this and what exactly is involved in the process? Im just curious as to why I hear people are doing this. I don't see what there is to gain from it. Please enlighten me Thanks
  5. Dreaded EURO 3 Removal, wiring and map switch 😉 So, Like many I brought a bit of a project bike. A re-framed TE510 2007. The bike originally stared life as a EURO 3 TE510 2007, but at some point around 3-4 years ago become a police write off due to being stolen and recovered. Unfortunately the VIN was removed when it was stolen, causing the police to scrap the frame. The Lad who I brought it from brought all of the bike Except the frame from the police. he then found a bare SMR450 frame for it around a year later and built it back up. He had it running but just lost interest in the project meaning it sat from 2016 until now 06/2019. We both talked and spoke about a deal with swapping my road legal yz125 ( 03 steel frame ) for it, we got a deal together and I went and made the journey from Cambridge to Brighton then back and finalised the deal. That night I set the challenge to get the bike ready for the upcoming bike show ( 2 days ) Having started to take it apart and noticed extra wiring and boxes. The dreaded euro 3 dellorto box and all its extras ( air box restriction, wiring, air solenoid ( intake was just trimmed and a valve cap clamped in upside down ) maf sensor unplugged, tps unplugged etc ) I unplugged it and found it ran fine, just the fan and rpm didn't ( rpm didn't work anyway ). Next the flushcuts came out and started to hack at the loom removing as much extra wiring as I could, I probably ended up with a loom at half the thickness. The only problem was the Dual mapped CDI unit, having done loads of googling, forum searching ect I finally found the Pins for the switch ( 13 + 14 if anyone asks 😉 ) So due to the plug being waterproof, all I did was remove the back cover and remove the two white plugs in the pins I wanted then put the plug back together, I found some .8mm welding wire and slid pieces in the pin holes whilst connected to the CDI and the soldered two wires up and heatshrinked them up. Then I got some Loctite superglue gel and glued the two "pins" in. Checked up on them a few days after the show and they are still perfect. All I did on the other end of those wires was put a small toggle switch in and it sits in the air box. The difference is unbelievable between the two modes. So next on the list was to sort out the fan, Rpm signal and the catalytic converter. I did toy with the idea of using the original head mounted temp switch, but after reading on the forums and seeing how hot it actually gets I decided to wire the fan to be permanently on with the ignition. Simply found the relay and bridged the 12v switch wire and that sorted that. Next the RPM signal, the signal used to go into the black dellorto box then back out to the computer, I found the signal from the CDI unit ( Green and white wire ) and connected it to the computers RPM input ( white and red wire ) and it works perfectly when the computer chooses to work ?? Finally the catalytic converter.... The silencer on this bike has a welded cat in the intake end, simply took the silencer off stuck it in the vice and attacked it with a diamond masonry bit drilling lots of small holes and then a long chisel broke it away into smaller pieces. A couple of shakes and its out, the silencer still weighs a tonne so I might find a nice FMF ect and tig the correct end and brackets on. The bike is finished for now ( until I find some Enduro wheels 😉 ) But a set of panels tidied it up, and it went through its first mot since 2016 with no issues... AND it made it to the bike show 🙂 So.... the bike show went great other than loosing my front sprocket guard... Few pieces of 2mm steel, lacquer and some tig welding later.. Thats a rough build and breakdown on the euro 3 removal, If anyone needs any help or has any questions drop me a message ill try my best to help you out !
  6. I see the 701 manual shows engine maintenance done with the engine on a stand. How can I take the clutch cover off without removing the right footpeg/frame bracket which will mess with the swingarm pivot??? There's nothing in the manual and I don't want to cause an issue with the swingarm if I can find a work-around. ONE cover bolt is behind the footpeg! What a pain! Thanks!
  7. Hello everyone, I picked up a 2012 KTM 150 XC the other day. The bike ran briefly when I picked it up (the seller said the bike had been sitting for about 14 months and that the carb would most likely need some TLC). The owners manual does not give instructions on how to remove the carb. I tried to do the "loosen the intake clamps and rotate the carb" trick to gain access to the bottom of the carb, but on mine you can not do that. You can not rotate it enough because the throttle cable hits part of the chassis. Even so, I think it would be better to pull the entire carb off to tear it down and do a thorough cleaning. I tried googling repair manuals for the bike. I found a PDF which seems to have some instructions, though the quality of the PDF is not great so I can not see specific details in the pictures. It just says you need to remove the seat and gas tank to be able to pull the carb. Is this true? I saw a old write up from 2009 on a 150 and the guy said you had to do ALOT to pull the carb (You had to pull the rear shock, amongst other things). I have no experience with carbs at all, but I have watched a lot of videos. I think if I took my time I could disassemble it, clean, and put back together. My REAL question so far is how to get the darn thing off. Can anyone tell me if all you have to do is pull the gas tank and seat to get this thing off? I wanted to get some input before I start tearing this thing apart. P.S. I have done a lot of searches but there does not seem to be much info on the 150 XC. Thanks for your time.
  8. So I want to share a solution I discovered today for what seems to be a somewhat common issue. First a little background, I ride a 2007 YZ144 set up for the woods and I had recently started to develop some slack in the rear end, so I had a buddy help me look and sure enough it was moving in the linkage. So I just received my new bearings and went to press out all the old bearings today. Using all-thread, some thick washers, and some nuts I was able to press out all the bearings in the linkage reasonably quickly (once I figured out to use a smaller socket so I wasn't hitting the shoulder). But then I ran into a dead-end.. the connecting link, dog bone, wish bone etc. has a shoulder, or raised sleeve, between the two bearings preventing you from pushing them both out one side. Now from my understanding this isn't the case on every bike, some bikes don't have a shoulder and the bearings in the connecting link can both be pressed out one side but my service manual clearly showed a shoulder. After some searching nobody really had a great method for removing these bearings except for buying a blind bearing puller. So I bought a cheap blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight but this did not work for me, it was slightly too large. So back to the drawing board.. then I discovered this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YRA3nhzXX0 Essentially, these races can be hammered out from the opposite side using a concrete expansion anchor that cost $2.69 at my local Ace Hardware Store. The one I found and used was slightly different from the one shown in the above video but there are many different styles that would probably work. Mine was luckily just the right length where I didn't need to use all thread or anything. Just slide it through to the race on the opposite side and expand it once inside (remove the needles before hand by the way). Once I had it in there and expanded, a few solid hammer blows (with wood underneath) and it came right out. See below for pictures of how it works. I've seen the question asked on these forums several times with no solution other than "buy a blind bearing puller" so hopefully this helps some people out.
  9. I am looking to do a mx-tech lucky carbon spring conversion on my 2018 susuki rmz250 that is equipped with KYB PSF2 air forks. I’ve been told that I may have trouble removing the fork lugs to install the new lug adapter at the bottom of the fork (damaging threads). Any tips to do this job correctly? Thanks in advance!
  10. So i bought a 2010 husqvarna wr300 from a terrible owner, after doing a complete bottom end overhaul, was going to grease the swing arm bearings also then i discovered the bearings where in terrible condition rusted and the needles just fell right out. Honestly looked like they've never been greased. any tips on how to remove them? I've tried my bearing puller and a torch no luck and the threaded rod and socket method the lips of the bearing are broken and so small the socket keeps slipping out and couldn't get it budge. i have a press but i used it to get bearings out of SWINGARM, CUSHION RELAY it worked for one of the holes and the second hole the socket underneath i used to "catch the bearing" just straight up crushed into the aluminum housing and had to get a whole new one at least it came with all the bearing installed already... so I'm really trying to avoid messing up the swing arm using that. was thinking of using a dremel to slightly cut the bearing and pry it out anyonee have any suggestions?
  11. any ideas on how to remove front shock knuckle bolt there is no clearance what so ever, and I don't want to remove swingarm. -originally had a lot more said but I made a editing mistake
  12. my last post i asked for help with the sizing for the spanner sockets. now im trying to figure out how to lock the clutch and keep it from rotating so i can remove the spanner nut. how can i lock it without the standard tool, and can i get it off without locking it if i just use an impact gun?
  13. Hi all, I've had a gasket perish on the stator cover of my KTM 625 LC4. I originally thought it was the small starter cover above (to the left in the photograph), but now the rubber seal on this has been replaced, I'm sure it can't be this. The image I've attached also shows that the stator cover gasket looks tired, it looks shrunken into the cover and darker where the oil seems to have soaked it. My question is, can the replacement of the cover gasket be done without dropping the oil? Someone with an RC8 has stated that it doesn't need a full oil drain for this... But that's a different bike. Additionally, does the gasket need preparing with any type of sealant? Last of all, many have said that the paper gaskets have a pretty limited lifespan, is there a different type of replacement gasket I should be using that will last more indefinitely? The leak is currently pretty minimal, I'm assuming I have a couple of rides left in it before it becomes more urgent. I do want to address it soon though as anything leaking drives me bat shi- You lot know I'm sure. Image references (blue is wind, shows where it has blown oil onto starter cover and bolt head, orange is line of gasket reference, black is the suspect leak location (dirtier and gasket shrunken, looks soaked in oil). Yellow shows where oil has travelled). Cheers Wilbert
  14. I searched online found nothing. Tao charges $30 for tech support. The battery is dead and need to get seat off to replace it. Can anyone help?
  15. Guys, Pulled the bike out of storage and runs, but is acting up a little. 1. Hard to start 2. Won't idle without choke until it's very warm. 3. Throttle lingers on release - so RPMS stay up. And if I adjust the idle higher, this becomes VERY noticable. 4. Lurching forward slightly. I figure it's time to clean the carb. Now, I've done carb cleans on Honda's, but this is my first KTM. Anyone have any how-to videos (Model specific). Searching YouTube and it looks like nobody has done one for this specific model... or least none that I can find. Any tips are greatly appreciated.
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