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I am looking to do a mx-tech lucky carbon spring conversion on my 2018 susuki rmz250 that is equipped with KYB PSF2 air forks. I’ve been told that I may have trouble removing the fork lugs to install the new lug adapter at the bottom of the fork (damaging threads). Any tips to do this job correctly? Thanks in advance!
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any ideas on how to remove front shock knuckle bolt there is no clearance what so ever, and I don't want to remove swingarm. -originally had a lot more said but I made a editing mistake
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Does anyone know how to remove the rear brake “piston/plunger” that drives the movement of fluid in the master cylinder? Trying to replace mine as the seals are bad but for the life of me I cannot get it out. It is not threaded, there is no c-clip, it won’t fall out the bottom no matter how much I tap the sides, and I’ve even tried blowing compressed air down into the small hole at the bottom of the cylinder to see if it would blow out and it still wouldn’t budge. It will slide up just like it’s supposed to but will not come out the bottom for removal. Anyone have any tips on how I can remove this? Bike is a 2014 KTM 350 XC-F Thanks in advance!!! Photo is of the bottom of the master cylinder.
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I have the cylinder completely apart and the right side power valve is stuck...it won’t come out. The left slid right out. I don’t want to damage anything. I sprayed some PB Blaster on it but still stuck (maybe that’s not the best for carbon). Thoughts?
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- Powervalve
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I searched online found nothing. Tao charges $30 for tech support. The battery is dead and need to get seat off to replace it. Can anyone help?
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Dreaded EURO 3 Removal, wiring and map switch ? So, Like many I brought a bit of a project bike. A re-framed TE510 2007. The bike originally stared life as a EURO 3 TE510 2007, but at some point around 3-4 years ago become a police write off due to being stolen and recovered. Unfortunately the VIN was removed when it was stolen, causing the police to scrap the frame. The Lad who I brought it from brought all of the bike Except the frame from the police. he then found a bare SMR450 frame for it around a year later and built it back up. He had it running but just lost interest in the project meaning it sat from 2016 until now 06/2019. We both talked and spoke about a deal with swapping my road legal yz125 ( 03 steel frame ) for it, we got a deal together and I went and made the journey from Cambridge to Brighton then back and finalised the deal. That night I set the challenge to get the bike ready for the upcoming bike show ( 2 days ) Having started to take it apart and noticed extra wiring and boxes. The dreaded euro 3 dellorto box and all its extras ( air box restriction, wiring, air solenoid ( intake was just trimmed and a valve cap clamped in upside down ) maf sensor unplugged, tps unplugged etc ) I unplugged it and found it ran fine, just the fan and rpm didn't ( rpm didn't work anyway ). Next the flushcuts came out and started to hack at the loom removing as much extra wiring as I could, I probably ended up with a loom at half the thickness. The only problem was the Dual mapped CDI unit, having done loads of googling, forum searching ect I finally found the Pins for the switch ( 13 + 14 if anyone asks ? ) So due to the plug being waterproof, all I did was remove the back cover and remove the two white plugs in the pins I wanted then put the plug back together, I found some .8mm welding wire and slid pieces in the pin holes whilst connected to the CDI and the soldered two wires up and heatshrinked them up. Then I got some Loctite superglue gel and glued the two "pins" in. Checked up on them a few days after the show and they are still perfect. All I did on the other end of those wires was put a small toggle switch in and it sits in the air box. The difference is unbelievable between the two modes. So next on the list was to sort out the fan, Rpm signal and the catalytic converter. I did toy with the idea of using the original head mounted temp switch, but after reading on the forums and seeing how hot it actually gets I decided to wire the fan to be permanently on with the ignition. Simply found the relay and bridged the 12v switch wire and that sorted that. Next the RPM signal, the signal used to go into the black dellorto box then back out to the computer, I found the signal from the CDI unit ( Green and white wire ) and connected it to the computers RPM input ( white and red wire ) and it works perfectly when the computer chooses to work ?? Finally the catalytic converter.... The silencer on this bike has a welded cat in the intake end, simply took the silencer off stuck it in the vice and attacked it with a diamond masonry bit drilling lots of small holes and then a long chisel broke it away into smaller pieces. A couple of shakes and its out, the silencer still weighs a tonne so I might find a nice FMF ect and tig the correct end and brackets on. The bike is finished for now ( until I find some Enduro wheels ? ) But a set of panels tidied it up, and it went through its first mot since 2016 with no issues... AND it made it to the bike show ? So.... the bike show went great other than loosing my front sprocket guard... Few pieces of 2mm steel, lacquer and some tig welding later.. Thats a rough build and breakdown on the euro 3 removal, If anyone needs any help or has any questions drop me a message ill try my best to help you out !
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I have a 2018 Fe 501. I’m curious about removing th emissions from these bikes and the ktm 500. Is there a performance gain by doing this? Is there anywhere anyone could direct me that has a detailed write up on this and what exactly is involved in the process? Im just curious as to why I hear people are doing this. I don't see what there is to gain from it. Please enlighten me Thanks
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So i bought a 2010 husqvarna wr300 from a terrible owner, after doing a complete bottom end overhaul, was going to grease the swing arm bearings also then i discovered the bearings where in terrible condition rusted and the needles just fell right out. Honestly looked like they've never been greased. any tips on how to remove them? I've tried my bearing puller and a torch no luck and the threaded rod and socket method the lips of the bearing are broken and so small the socket keeps slipping out and couldn't get it budge. i have a press but i used it to get bearings out of SWINGARM, CUSHION RELAY it worked for one of the holes and the second hole the socket underneath i used to "catch the bearing" just straight up crushed into the aluminum housing and had to get a whole new one at least it came with all the bearing installed already... so I'm really trying to avoid messing up the swing arm using that. was thinking of using a dremel to slightly cut the bearing and pry it out anyonee have any suggestions?