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Found 11 results

  1. I felt the need after a few months to share my experience on kreft suspension tuning. I raced into the A class from the 90s through 2005 and have been riding trails mostly since then. I've had suspension work from factory connection, pro circuit, Enzo, tbt, devol, rep, pro motion, moto pro... To name a few. Having the AER fork stock and valved by another shop I was relatively happy with them. I also snowbike and this bike (2016 factory edition sx-f 450) was bought to do both. I'll post an add on to this review on the air forks ability to work in sub 0 temp after a full season on them with the kreft work. But on to the dirt part of the review: I did the full 1700 dollar suspension job. I know it's a lot, but it's for a purpose. The air fork can crank up to snowbike spring rates. With revalve control the valving can do woods soft and snowbike stiff by turning a dial. I got the microfinish also which is amazing buttery. 150 miles of trails and this is the must plush, perfectly balanced, rock and root gobbling suspension I've ever ridden hands down... By a long shot. Set the sag and fork pressure as recommended in the chart tailored to me and I extra click of rebound dampening on the shock and it's money. A few buddies tried it also and about lost their minds. Slap down in a flat from a wheelie is like landing in a down ramp. The most noticeable change in the fork is the spring rate, it used to ramp fast.. Now it feels just like a spring fork. Yesterday I went to the local track for some laps in the pro/intermediate group at greysharbor. Just for sport I left the settings as is and went out to instantly bottom the fork hard on a baby little 30 foot double. In between rounds I broke out the chart kreft provided and change the fork and shock to mx intermediate / expert settings. What do you know.. Perfect. Damp, smooth, progressive. Blasted every triple and flat landed over shooting one double and it took it all like a champ. I'm just blown away with this stuff. Can't wait to set it up for snow and report back how it performs with the timbersled ARO 120 on it. Dan and Adam... Thank you, and damn fellas. Nice work.
  2. Background: Girlfriend weighs 115 lb with no gear, mid-pack C rider, getting faster by the day. Arizona desert with lots of rocks, deep whoops, and sand. She says the bike feels pretty planted and is pretty good overall, but complains it doesn't soak up the small rocks and deflects off of larger rocks. (Especially going up hills when it matters the most) 2007 yz125 Bike has .38 kg/mm fork springs and a 4.0 shock spring (Recommended by race tech). Free Sag is 49mm and race sag is 104mm which is about as close as we could get it to the sweet spot. Forks: Compression 20 clicks out - Rebound 10 clicks out. Shock: Compression 20 clicks out - Rebound 11 clicks out. (Forgot to check HS) Valving is stock (Shown below). This will be my first revalve, but I have done plenty of reading/learning thanks to all the awesome people on here. My initial thought is to remove 4 face shims off the base valve and leave everything else the same as a starting point. Beyond that I don't really know where to go. Do you guys recommend changing anything else in the base while I have these apart? How bout the mid? Don't necessarily want to go too crazy right off the bat, but would definitely appreciate your feedback. Thank you in advance!
  3. Hello, Trying to make sense of the XPLOR shock on my 2019 excf450. I've built the bike to rally in the desert. All the extra weight of nav kit,tanks and fuel makes me bottom out pretty frequently. No other handling complaints though. Bike is lovely apart from landing jumps and dune transitions but this is so frequent the mudguard is taking a beating. Heaviest spring I could buy already installed, and AER forks are keeping the front end up (at 160 psi). I'm looking at revalving the shock for more compression dampening as I've already tried closing the adjustments off completely and there still too soft. One recommendation I've had from a suspension shop is to "remove shim #4 (28x0.15) and try it once more". This blew my mind as I thought only adding shimms for more compression would work... the only sense i can make of it is its a crossover shim for hsc/lsc so it will cause the whole stack to work as one fat wedge? Bike Setup: The weight is 93kg rider weight (clothed) 27kg of fuel/water total (8kg above the rear wheel/4kg on the sump rest in large capacity main tank) And aprox 3kg on the bars (roadbook) Tot:123KG Current shock setting is: Comp LS 8 Clicks out Comp HS 1/2 turn out Rebound 12 clicks out 83n/mm linear rate shockspring (the heaviest I could find) Shock is 23hrs from manufacture Thanks Maki
  4. I have factory connection forks and the bike’s previous owner was 40 or more pounds heavier and round motocross. My goal is to get into C class hare scrambles by fall but if not next year of course. I weigh 155. Not to familiar with suspension but i can work on my bike. I had called factory connection and to have the bike revalved it was gonna run me 1200. I definitely feel like i can figure it out with some advice and tips. Then i'll know how to do it on my bike and friends bikes when needed. I appreciate the help guys.
  5. I need help figuring out how to improve my suspension. I have an 02CR250 that was setup for a 225lb class A MX rider this past August. I have swapped out the spring for a GNCC 170lb rider. I got a quote to have the forks and shock revalved for $400. Is that a good price? How is the setup for MX different from GNCC as it relates to calving? Are there any other alternatives like ordering valvinh set up for my and I installl?
  6. Hello guys, I’m Marco from Italy, it’s a long time that I’m reading various posts here in the forum, they are very helpful, so I’ve decide to ask you for some suggestions. . I'm writing brcause ask for advice for the Showa 47 ex CRF450R that I took to mount them on a Beta Xtrainer (which as you it comes with poor suspensions). The Beta as long as you go slowly behaves very well, then as soon as you get up the pace becomes not very stable, so I found these Showa close to home very well placed at an honest price and I decided to buy them. What has been done up to now, as well as a complete overhaul, has been to shorten the stroke from 315 mm to 280 mm to respect the original geometry and replace the springs with 0.42 kg / mm. Now, I imagine that the hydraulics, is quite sustained so before installing them I wanted to put my hands on the shim stack but without spending a lot of money since I use the bike only on the weekend and I do not have to race, the initial idea was to copy the pyramid crf250x but I thought that maybe intervening on the shims present you can do something without upsetting the configuration too much (like removing or moving shims). This is my basic configuration, http://i63.tinypic.com/9qgw48.jpg, if you have any advice on how to move it would be welcome, even combining preload spring and oil to be inserted into the forks. What I was looking for is to get a slightly softer fork in the first part of the stroke and reading around I seem to have understood that already intervening on the bypass something is obtained. To finish weight about 72 kg without enduro garments, so around 80 kg dressed in overalls protectors and boots. Thanks a lot in advance and happy holidays to everyone.
  7. Hello my fellow Thumpertalkers. I have a 2017 YZ250X and am looking to revalve it. I have been looking into FC. What are your experiences and costs? Thanks
  8. Sportsfans, first a big shoutout to “Virginia Motorad” and “MrDuhfactor” for their excellent youtube videos, and my friend and mentor "Jon" for advice, encouragement, and for fabing a tool for me. The Clymer manual and the instructions from Gold Valve are superb, but nothing beats watching the videos (over and over…ha ha) This post is not a how to do it…the above sources of info are superb. This is, instead, a list of things I learned that were not covered in these sources. I have tried to use the correct terminology for the parts to allow anyone that is also doing this, or refers to the diagram for the parts, can visualize what I am talking about. I will go from big to small. 1. Damper Rod bolt (the bolt in the bottom of the fork with the compression setting adjustment on it): this bolt has the valve and shim stack on it and all of this is solidly held in place by a small nut on the top of the shaft that runs through the centre of the stack. During manufacture that nut is fixed in place by “staking” or mushrooming the top of the shaft threads. On both of mine the staking/mushrooming did hold the nut from backing right off….but the nut was loose and could turn by finger ¾ of a turn. On both of the valve/shimstacks I had about 1mm of play up and down!! Given the extreme tolerances on the shims (0.1mm) I cannot imagine what this did to the fork handling. Anyone pulling their forks apart should check this, even if not revalving or changing the shim stack. If no change is desired but the play is like mine (and like the one in the video) then consider a locktite solution. That valve and stack should not have any play. 2. Rebound damperscrew turns endlessly after reassembly: oh my god, the fork cap is screwed and I will have to get a new one!!! NOPE. This explanation became long enough to merit its own post, so see: 3. Damper bolt removal and installation: I had a friend make me the tool to hold the damper chamber from rotating while loosening and tightening the damper bolt: it is simply a piece of pipe with a bolt head (27mm wide) spot welded on. The bolt head had a 11/16 hole drilled in it and the end of the pipe had holes drilled across it to allow for a screwdriver to be inserted to hold it form rotating. Best technique was to lock the screwdriver into a vice, insert the tool into the fork and then put the cross holes in the tool over the screwdriver and hold the fork horizontal and pressed against the tool to keep engaged. This allowed the other hand to operate the impact gun or torque wrench. For removal of the damper bolt…NOTHING beats the impact gun. I did grind the face of a socket to ensure it fully engaged the limited head on the bottom of the bolt. Photo of tool follows. 4. Damper adjustments: ensure you have the dampers all set to the softest limit before assembly/disassembly: if not you can damage them during the assembly process. Be careful when turning dampers to their limits: they are brass and can shear off…the limits are rather subtle, so get used to the clicker force and quit as soon as it gets hard…don’t reef on it. If unsure if you have hit the limit, back off several clicks and go again with particular attention to the force required…stop as soon as it gets noticeably hard when trying for one more click…..be warned. 5. Don’t cheap out: if you are doing a full disassembly, get the orings, seals and more particularly the upper guide bushing and the lower slide bushing. These latter parts are coated brass bushings, and unless you are disassembling a new bike to revalve, they are worn. The extra cost of replacing these additional parts, compared with the labour to do the disassembly/assembly makes this a no brainer. These parts will be worn, and while they may still be “acceptable” why not replace while this is all apart. Have fun.
  9. Hi guys, I have just recently purchased my first dirtbike (2017 te300) and being a larger man (6'2" 270lbs) I am in need of some stiffer suspension. I am going to be talking to some local companies, but I know that they are going to suggest a new re-valve along with the stiffer springs and probably a full service. My question to you all is this, Is there a rule of thumb about how many spring rates you can go from stock without really hurting your suspension. I know going with really stiff springs will most likely put way to much pressure on the valving. Just trying to figure out the most effective/cheapest way to have a decent ride without breaking the bank. Thanks ahead for any suggestions.
  10. I am in the middle of a fork swap, the bike is an 04 kdx 200 and new forks are off a 2006 kxf 250. To maintain the geometry i am lowering the kx forks 1"by installing spacers and will also add new spring perch grooves offset 1" from existing to prevent increasing pre-load. I am also replacing the existing .46 springs with new .42 springs.(single track, 39 year old, B/C rider). I have pulled apart the forks and this is the existing Compression(base) valve shim stack: 30x.10(12) 22x.15 30x.10 29x.10 28x.10 27x.10 26x.10 25x.10 24x.10 23x.10 22x.10 21x.10 21x.10 20x.10 19x.30 19x.30 19x.30 19x.30 22x.30 My plan is to remove 6 of the 30x.10 Lo-Speed shims from the Compression(base) valve shim stack. I will leave the rebound stack alone. But I defiantly open to suggestions or opinions. I am doing this to improve the handling of the bike but also as a chance to learn about suspension so feel free to lecture/rant/ridicule at will.
  11. Hi there, I have a question that someone could help with. I was wondering if I can respring the front forks and respring the rear shock without doing a revalve. I weigh 200 lb 5,11. I bottom out on every mx track jump. I want stiffer suspension, not looking to get better performance.
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