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Found 10 results

  1. She is coming home. After 15 years I am buying back my 2000 KTM 400 EXC. Bike seems to have seen few miles/hours since I sold it to my buddy after only 2 years of ownership. I am planing to baseline this bike fluids and replace as needed seal and such. I am compiling a list of items I know will need refreshing and was curious if anyone else had anything to add to the list. Thanks in advance. Very happy to have this bike back! Below is my list: both oil filters and oil - oil O rings too? clean oil screens air filter replaced flush and refill brake fluid flush and refill coolant new springs to adjust suspension to my weight new fork oil jetting the carb with JD jet kit fuel I believe has been drained but if not drain and clean tank and carb probably new tires, the front may be original improve seat foam and cover (I recall it hurt may ass horrbily) new grips Check/adjust valve clearance New lithium ion battery Sound like a good list of thing to attend to. Anyone with any knowledge of the RFS motors have any insight on other things that need attention while I'm at it? Thanks in advance.
  2. We spent weeks trying to determine why our 2001 520EXC wouldn't start after we did the top end and replaced the OEM stator with an upgraded TrailTech 100W (need to run headlight and a fan once it's dualsported). HISTORY: Before I tore it down, the bike ran almost perfectly, though the starter was hit-or-miss. I mostly used it as a kick-assist, because even jetted properly, it was tough to kick. However, I essentially rescued this bike from the desert in Saudi Arabia and it was almost completely destroyed electrically with some truly shameful bodge jobs. I replaced literally every electrical component but the pickup and rotor and had it running well, but was nervous because the outside was in such a frightful state, I couldn't imagine it was internally sound. If nothing else, I wanted to make sure the infamous deco lever stop bolt was addressed. Sure enough, all was well inside, with the exception of worn timing chain guides. Truly a testament to the legendary RFS! Once buttoned up, we found that with a sharp kick, it started first or second kick almost every time, though it was still a bit more difficult than it should have been. However, I could lay on the starter for 10 or 15 seconds and it would cough once or twice but never catch. Hot or cold, it didn't matter. I swapped plugs, compared sparks, checked coils and wires, dropped in an enormous 300CCA AntiGravity lithium battery, tested voltage drop at the starter, scrubbed grounds, inspected starter sprag, cleaned and wondered at the carburetor jetting, pondered whether I'd improperly assembled the auto decompression lever, pondered a busted woodruff key, second and third-guessed the timing, and generally went insane. Nothing was wrong. Absolutely maddening. After exhausting all the other intelligent options, I arrived at the solution by pure, dumb luck...or the longest, most methodical troubleshooting I've ever done. You be the judge. I only noticed the problem when we opened the ignition cover again because I was going to replace the new TT stator with the original. The air gap for the pickup (pulse generator) off the rotor's reluctor bar (I think that's the right name for the raised section) was at least 2mm or so. I was staring at the manual a couple nights before and a note about a 0.75mm gap stood out--primarily because that doesn't seem to be an adjustable component. I've never adjusted pickup gap ever, though I'm primarily a 2-stroke guy. Probably should have remembered from the stories about how sensitive some of the old points ignitions were to air gap. Using my 0.76mm feeler gauge, I bent the pickup bracket inward until I had drag on the gauge. Buttoned it up, and the bike started absolutely effortlessly on choke in a 45F (7C) garage. Zero hesitation, first poke. Starts first try every time now. Can't wait to get it out and thrash it a bit to see how it feels! This was literally a 5-minute fix, requiring nothing but an 8mm socket, feeler gauges, strong thumbs, and maybe a stator cover gasket. How frustratingly simple for a problem that took weeks to find!
  3. Hello I’ve commented so much about noises on TT that I feel like a nuisance but today I had a noise with the clutch in, for the first time. I know the bearings cause a lot of rattle but when the clutch is engaged it usually goes away. Today it didn’t. I pulled the cover off and this fell out of the clutch side. (Image) I checked the main crank nut and it seems tight. Before I re-torque everything back down I need to know where this goes. I’m so confused, I doubt this thing caused the noise? Any insight would be helpful
  4. Yo. Wondering what tires can be recommended for racing in superstition I’m taking my time finding the right ones. Must be DOT approved. Race is over 100 miles. For my Ktm 450 exc 03 with lectron carb. Thank you for your time.
  5. Last time I had my valves adjusted I had a shop do them, so I will preface this by saying that I may have adjusted them incorrectly myself because I do not recall this noise, and the kickstart problem that has come with it, after the previous adjustment. However, after completing what I believed to be a successful valve adjustment (I used the crank lock method to ensure I was at TDC) I immediately noticed this very loud ticking noise coming from the front right side of the engine that was not there before. This noise is separate from the normal noisy clutch sound that will go away when the clutch is engaged. This noise itself however, seems to subside when I pull in the decompression lever. The throttle response on the bike felt good when I rode it, and the electric start works just fine. The only noticeable issue (which is what is making me decide not to ignore the noise) is that my kickstart now feels like a brick wall and harshly snaps back at me, whereas before it would kick over the bike fairly effortlessly in no more than two kicks hot or cold. I will post a video of the bike riding and of it running while in the garage. Any suggestions for how to fix this are appreciated. Thanks in advance to all! Garage (rip kickstart/excuse the monologue): https://youtu.be/wG3lT3gixMw Riding (everything seems fine): https://youtu.be/ylqQpcufWzA
  6. I am buying back my 2000 KTM 400 EXC after selling it to a buddy 15 years ago. Bike has seen very little riding and I want to completely go over the bike and get it in top condition. Rather than cross posting here is a link to the message I posted in the general dirt bike forum. Thanks in advance for any and all responses.
  7. Thumpers.. Quick question...... Friend of mine brought his 2006 KTM 450 SMR today and for some reason coolant is shooting through his overflow hose from the radiator cap fairly fast... Just by first glance i noticed his "weephole" was blocked with foil!!! I am guessing who ever worked on the bike before stuffed it to avoid the coolant from escaping the weep hole, would this make the coolant come through the overflow hose like it is currently or does this mean he has another issue all together? Thanks for the help!
  8. Rebuilding top end of my 2004 EXC 400. Now onto re-riveting the timing chain but having some problems. 1) it looks like I 'broke' the chain incorrectly? I've managed to remove this section: Opposed to this section (new replacement riveting link, (I bought 2 in case a damaged one)) I was hooing to just use the old pins and re-swedge them but the old pins will not fit in the links in the chain now (by hand). The pins will not push into these link holes.... I thought I must have distorted the ends enough when removing that they no longer fit but then I tried the new riveting link in these same holes and they don't fit either! Then I tried pushing (again by hand) the new riveting plate to on to the new riveting link pins (plate see resting on top if the pins below but that also doesn't fit.... So am guessing plates have to be pressed back on to the pins (old or new pins). Is this correct? Given the way I 'broke' the chain its going to be very tricky press the old pins through the chain, though the section I removed and in the plate. I'm using the motion pro chain riveting tool... Any advice/thoughts welcome. Far too many tiny bits to juggle and not drop in the motor! Have I buggered it by removing the section rather then riveting link supplied as replacement? Hope that all makes sense. Thanks in advance. Dan.
  9. I have a 2002 ktm400 exc runs great as of now never had any issues however its smoking a bit. So it only happens when revved while idleing on the stand. Its white/gray smoke. And right after you rev it there is a small delay and then the smokes comes out. Does it when warm too but not as much and more of a rev is needed. Nothing too crazy, doesnt smell like oil, bike doesnt use oil, at least not that i know of. But the amount of smoke is a bit more then i think would be normal. So what could be the cause? Is it just unburnt fuel maybe? I had the carb recently gone over by a Ktm guru. Everthing seems fine. Also this is not new either. Its been doing it a while but i only started noticeing it now as i let my bike warm up on the stand more instead of just slowly hitting the trails. Its done it before when i would be in neutral and just wack the throttle. Also would happen sometimes(when i notice) if the bike stalls on a really slow trail and when it starts up again a bit of smoke. so seems like its not an engine issue to me but any help or possibly causes would be appreciated thanks
  10. Hi there The washer is supposed to move like this around the front sproket or it is supposed to be tight close to the front sproket? Screw is tight. Yes, I know the front sproket as seen better days 😂 '07 RFS 450 Thanks! https://youtu.be/6UxYx44SxWY
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