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Found 26 results

  1. jtyack

    93 RM125 Running rich

    hey guys, my old rm125 is spooging and whenever i get on the gas it smokes a ton. It hits powerband pretty good I think, then again I have no idea as this is the only dirtbike ive ridden. My plug is wet, i have a keihin pj carb with a 155 main which I think is lean so I have no idea why it smokes so much. I mix 32:1 and used kawasaki racing 2 stroke oil, maybe this oil just smokes lots? I have no where to really get it on the pipe for a long time so it could be just loaded up. I just did a full engine rebuild with new crank seals and it seems my gear oil is not going down. I will keep an eye on it tho. I think i might just go to the original mukuni tmx carb that was stock. The guy i bought it from was a hack so Im not surprised if the carb is completely off. I am also running atf so I think it would smell like atf, and right now all the smoke is blue. Thanks
  2. Jericola

    RM 85 Throttle Problems

    Hi, I have an issue with my RM 85... I bought it a couple months ago and am having a problem. For the most part my bike will run just fine. But once in awhile I will let off the throttle and the rpms will hang for a few seconds then drop back down. I know for a fact my bike is running pretty rich so it definitely isn't a lean condition. I know it isn't just me whiskey throttling because I will completely let off and it will still hang for a couple of seconds. This may be a carburetor problem or cable problem I don't know. I turned the handlebars both ways and I don't hear the rpms go up. Please help me because I have no idea what it truly is. And just to restate, it will only do this very rarely, like once a ride but it usually is fine. Thank you for any help.
  3. i helping my friend with his 2006, the bike only starts when giving throttle and wont idle and back fires a lot. he put in an all ballz rebuild kit last year, and i just took the carb apart and cleaned it using an ultrasonic cleaner. i also installed a JD jet kit and new slide seal, also cleaned out the pilot port with wire/fishing line. i know its the carb because i have the same bike and i put my carb in it and it ran great. i also have his carb set up with the same size jets and fuel screw setting. Edit: it has an aluminum hot start nut too, so thats not it either.
  4. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  5. Hey everybody, first post after years of lurking. Saturday I traded my johnboat for another bike. A very rough 2006 ttr125 with a 150 big bore kit. (no idea who made the kit). She starts first kick no matter what, idles and runs great until about 7/8 to full throttle where it proceeds to fall on its face until I let up. Bike has an "aftermarket" carb that i'm having trouble identifying. The only marking on it is an "M" cast on the side of the body. the insides look brand new but the jets dont have sizes on them. I can post pics as soon as I get off work but without knowing what size jets I have i'm not sure what kit to purchase. Starting to think a new mikuni would be the best course of action. Any Ideas or discussion would be great. Thanks a ton in advance. -Ricky
  6. Kendyn Sarniak

    RMZ250 seems over compressed???

    I have a 2013 rmz250 that had been running like a dream until it hit 30 hours on a new rebuild done by a shop and paid for by previous owner. I bought this bike with 19 hours on it and loved every second spent on it until it started to act like it was running out of fuel when it got hot. I got it most of the way back to my barn and had to push it the rest. It would start just fine, run for about 3-4 seconds then quit. 3-4 times. I let it sit overnight and the next day I tried it again and the kick-start lever won't even move even with 220 pounds on it. I took out the spark plug to investigate and decided to try to kick it over a few times. After 2-3 kicks it took almost no effort like it should have and I thought it would most likely be fine so I put the spark plug back in, hooked everything back up, and it started up just fine but would still die after 3-4 seconds, and now I'm right back where I started and the lever wont even move. Any ideas on what this could be?
  7. Hey guys. I just put a new top end in my 1999 Suzuki RM125 that I bought without ever seeing run. It started up easily, but I think something isn't quite right. Here are the issues: Black, sooty, oily stuff comes out the tail pipe, and also accumulates at the joint between the fatty pipe and silencer, and drips down onto the rear master cylinder. It's really smoky. The power seems a little low, and there is no really noticeable increase in power. Gas drips out of the carb when the bike is off. Sometimes when I ride and let off the throttle, the revs will climb on their own. Not sure if this is a possible clutch issue where it doesn't grab (acting as if in neutral). From these symptoms, I think that the carb needs to be cleaned and tuned, so that less fuel is burned (its running too rich), other than number 5. I think it has something to do with the float bowl, what do you guys think?
  8. I need to know the difference between having a lean gas mix and a lean fuel/air ratio. I know that 100:1 is leaner than 50:1 which is leaner than 32:1, and I have an idea of what leaner fuel/air looks like, or too lean, but what are the signs of the gas mixture being too lean? I am currently switching my gas mixture from 32:1 to 50:1 and I ride a KTM 250sx and I will tune my carb, etc. I made a whole thread on this already and I'm pretty positive the bike will run 50:1 fine since the recommended is 60:1 without having to jet it due to the fact that the guy never jetted the carb for 32:1, it is still jetted for 60:1. I just need to know what the signs of lean gas or fuel/air mixture and the difference. I shouldn't even need to know the sign of lean gas, if there are any... I don't wanna &%$#@! up the bike. I would at least like to know the sign of lean air/fuel ratio so that I can adjust since idk the signs of what I would see if it is too lean or rich.
  9. Hello, today I started to do further research on my issue. I have a 04 yz250f and I feel as if it’s overheating I say this because when the bike is in nuetral coasting or idle coolant flows out the overflow. So now I’m pretty sure I know what’s wrong and it’s that I’m too lean the bike backfires on deceleration but the throttle response is perfect. Also, the motor seems to remain at high rpms after the clutch is engaged. I took the carb apart and this is what I found. (I do trail riding, I know the radiators are getting enough air flow I’m not going slow enough for that to be the issue that’s what I think at least) Main jet—178 pilot jet-72 Jet needle groove position-4th down Pilot Screw Adjustment- The bike stays running at about 2 turns out but to have more throttle control best would be 3-3.5 basically all the way out. P.s I’m not very familiar with these carbs so if you can leave some information on how theses things work and what I should do, the bike starts up first kick clutch engages every time the bike just gets extremely hot.
  10. jakquezz

    JD Jetting worse than before

    Hey guys, I recently bought a 2001 DRZ400s with 5000 miles and I'm having some trouble jetting it properly even after buying and installing the JD jet kit. Important bits: The bike has a stock exhaust and I did the 3x3 airbox mod. Previously it had the 22.5 pilot, 162 main, and the fuel screw had been adjusted (brass removed but stock screw). With this setup it was a quick little bike, but it popped A LOT on deceleration and it missed a little on idle. Now I've installed the JD kit with 22.5 pilot, 150 main, extended screw at 2.5 turns out, and blue needle at 3rd position. Currently with this setup it feels noticeably slower but it seems to run better, if that makes sense at all. It idles well so I assume the pilot and fuel screw are adjusted properly and it doesn't pop at all now on decel, but it feels really down on power especially in the top end. When I go WOT and then back off a little it seems to accelerate a little more which leads me to believe the main jet is too SMALL, but I'm already at a 150 with stock exhaust...that said, it had a 162 and seemed more powerful. Huh. My next step is to pull the spark plug and see what it tells me, but I'm hoping someone has some input for me. Am I the only one the JD kit hasn't worked out for? Thanks, J
  11. I bought a 1997 YZ250 a little while ago knowing it needed some work. Clutch was bad but it ran fine. It got into the powerband great and it idled fine. I replaced the clutch plates and basket and I rode it a few times and then it just bogged out and fouled a plug. I went through the carb multiple times, rejetted it, tuned it, and still no fire. Has great compression and spark, but it is getting too much fuel. I flipped the reeds over as a test and it fired right up. I put in new reeds and now it wont start again. Same issues. I am thinking reeds yet but was not too sure. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kyle.
  12. Okay so to start off i know for a fact that it is a carby issue. Basically i have a 1995 Kawasaki Kx100 2 stroke, and its never ever had a single issue for the time that i've owned it which is over a year. Recently with the weather becoming colder approaching winter in Australia, the bikes been really really un-happy. First i noticed that is wouldnt start like it used to so i was like no issues, probably just the colder weather, then while riding it i realized it would bog out at full throttle, like a blubwubwubwub kinda bog. After a bit of tinkering i cleaned out the carb and stuff and tried to tune it, i came accross a different issue, now basically when im riding and i get to like 4th gear, all the sudden the bike will rev out really high and ill loose all power. Then i upshift into 5th and it will be good for a second then rev out and i loose power again. Ive checked everywhere for air leaks and all that and i cant find any. is my air adjustment screw letting in too much air? and in the case of the bog at full throttle should i maybe go down a size on the main jet. Lastly theres another issue lol. when i start it it will idle for a second and then rev its guts out. Please help me, next step is to get a brand new carb i think.
  13. GearHeadBrady

    Jetting help CR250

    Hello guys, this is my first post on here as I am in need of some help, I have been following these threads for a long time now because they contain very useful information. nut i have never made a post of my own because I have normally been able to find the answers to my questions in existing threads. anyways, I have just finished rebuilding my 2002 Cr250, i used the crank that was already in it and just replaced the crank bearings,crank seals, all external oil seals, as well as sending my cylinder off to millineum technologies for a bore a re nicaseal of the cylinder(back to stock bore) as well as replacing the piston with a wiseco Pro-Lite piston(I drilled the holes for the exhaust bridge as I have always done).( a new OEM cylinder head was put on as well) so here's my problem, I believe my damage to the top end was due to air leaks thus a lean burn down of the top end. I have gone through my break-in procedure and done 4 heat cycles and then an idle run through of the gears. today I did a half throttle and then an about 3/4 throttle pull through the gears. the bike felt like it ran good and had good power except it felt like it fell a little flat in the top peak of the RPM(so there's problem number 1) my second issue is after these pulls the silencer and pipe silencer joint were covered in spooge.(i know a bit of spooge is to be expected after full days worth of riding but not after a 10 minute run through of the gears) the spooge problem led me to believe that the jetting was the issue and that the bike falling a liittle flat high in the rpms and the spooge were connected(i have a stock mikuni carb with the recomended jetting for a pro circuit pipe 380 main, 32.5 pilot stock needle on 3rd clip position)(i was running a 340 main and 30 pilot before the rebuild but i felt like that was a little lean) i then pulled the plug and looked at all of it and the coloration of the porselin is leading me to beleive the jetting is lean(even on stock jetting and 4 sizes up on the main from where i used to be) the plug looking lean scares me a tad as this is what i fekt like caused my top end failure before. so i really need help from the jettng gurus here that can give me good info attached are pictures of the plug,spooge and new top end any help would be appreciated, i would like to fix the spooge problem and the falling flat feeling high in the rpm, i just put alot of money into this motor and i want to do it right to prevent andy further problems.
  14. Currently running a yz125, FMF turbinecore 2, twin air filter, stock jetting, 2000-5000 ft elevation, 40:1 91 pump gas/yamaha 2R with an ounce of hi-test octane booster per gallon. Bike runs pretty good for about 1-2 hours, then it bogs down and the plug gets fouled. Left me coasting/pushing back to my truck up in the mountains yesterday. (still a great day actually:)) Anyone have a good recommendation of where to start with a jetting change. Im not experienced in tuning carbs, so I need all the help I can get. Also if I do run into this situation again, whats a good way to get a spark plug clean enough to throw back in and get it to run again for a while?(other than the obvious answer that I should have had a spare handy)
  15. 1985 yz250 at 10,000-12,000 feet Trying to figure out why my bike is running rich at 10,000 feet with all my jets replaced. Ill give you my jetting specs and the stock specs. Im thinking its the reed valves but some people think its crazy that the bikes main jets and everything is so low but maybe theyre used to a different carb with less sensitivity. Also I just did a top end on it and everything looks good. havent peaked at the reed valves though. main-230 stock 290 pilot-46 stock 60 needle clip position with stock needle- top clip stock is 2nd clip position running rich and fouling plugs every ride. REED VALVES?
  16. Hey guys. A few months ago i bought a ragged out 97 rm250. Cylinder was gone and crank side to side play was TERRIBLE.plastics where trash seat everything pretty much. So i COMPLETELY rebuilt her. New crank. New stock size wiesco topend. Had cylinder plated and hatched. Put v force reeds on it and new pro circuit platinum exhaust with new pro circuit 304 factory sound silencer. She runs like a raped ape on crack..BUT its runnin rich as hell and hard to start. About 6 to 7 kicks sometimes. I jetted it to pro circuit chart and was rich. So i got my stock needle at the leanest postition. Got a 42 pilot in it and a 170 main. Also. The v force reeds had a gap in them. I could see light through them..i didnt think i was supposed to see that on a set of BRAND NEW 160 dollar reeds. My elevation is about 1000 feet asl. What should my jetting be? Im mixing at 40:1 on 87 octane. Using the br8es plugs i Believe they are called. Ngk. And i tightened my gap a bit as well. She should fire one kick with all that compression. Anyone can tell me where my jetting should be? Would be much appreciated...i mean..its better rich than lean..but im still lookin for that cardboard color on my plugs when im stuck with charcoal atm. Thanks in advance.
  17. Hi all, I have a completely stock 2005 Suzuki drz110 (same thing as a klx110) and it is running way to rich. It wont idle at all but will hang before it dies. It puffs a little bit of black smoke too. It always starts 1st kick and has decent power. Jets are stock at 35 pilot and 80 main. playing with the idle and fuel screws don`t do anything. Spark plug is black but it doesn't foul plugs. checked all around engine for air leaks with carb and choke cleaner and have found none. Air filter is clean and valves were just adjusted. Im out of things to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Luke
  18. idratherberiding

    2 Stroke Winter Jetting

    Just bought a 2007 YZ250, my first 2 stroke. Want to stud the tires and ride it through the winter. Elevation is about 300m above sea level. Temperature ranges 0 to -20 degrees Celcius. What should I jet it at for these temperatures? Do I change needle position also? Not sure what current jetting is, oil ratio is 32:1 and tons of spooge out the exhaust pipe. Thanks!
  19. hey i have a 1999 cr250 that has been running super rich. I ride at 700 feet above sea level and in 70 degree weather. bike currently has a size 45 idle jet and a size 160 main jet and the needle is set 1 clip below stock. Running a pro circuit platinum pipe to a fmf turbinecore silencer with 40:1 honda hp2 oil. I know stock main jet size is 190 correct? could it be a problem with the reeds? ive messed with the air screw multiple times and it doesnt help much. at this point im just really confused.
  20. Josh Johnson

    RM 250 JETTING HELP PLEASE!

    So I just got done rebuilding my 2000 rm 250 bottom and top end. Its bored over 2.10mm to be a 265 (I believe). It has a Pro circuit header, FMF shorty silencer, and vforce 1 reeds. Its just barely broken in maybe an hour or two on it so far. It keeps fouling plugs and sounds a little rich. Its running a 160 Main (2 up from stock) and 48 Pilot (1 up from stock) with the needle clip on the stock setting. Should I change my needle clip position? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated!
  21. I've got a 1999 Suzuki RM125 (PWK carb, ProCircuit Exhaust). The settings are correct for what ProCircuit has for jet sizes in my temp range. I believe it's running rich because of three reasons: Very smoky Very sooty (black drips spray out tailpipe) Engine revs very high when fuel runs out, until it's empty and shuts off. It also leaks fuel. So I'm wondering if these could be related. The idea is that because of the fuel leak, there is something (float or float needle worn) that is letting too much fuel in, causeing it to run rich. Then when the fuel runs out, it finally isn't running too rich and revs up because the idle screw was turned all the way up to compensate for the richness. I will check the float level and go from there. Does this sound like a possible fix?
  22. luke8500

    DRZ110 running rich

    Hi all, I have a completely stock 2005 Suzuki drz110 (same thing as a klx110) and it is running way to rich. It wont idle at all but will hang before it dies. It puffs a little bit of black smoke too. It always starts 1st kick and has decent power. Jets are stock at 35 pilot and 80 main. playing with the idle and fuel screws don`t do anything. Spark plug is black but it doesn't foul plugs. checked all around engine for air leaks with carb and choke cleaner and have found none. Air filter is clean and valves were just adjusted. Im out of things to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Luke
  23. I just pulled the spark plug from an 2014 350 KTM EXC-F after a season and I don't know what to say. Bike is euro map, stock motor, stock pipe with db killer in. Only things removed were catalytic converter, lambda sensor, air restrictors on the intake nozzle and on the air filter. TPS is set at 0.59 . It shouldn't be rich, but looks like it, and there's also the build up on the lip.... I didn't do the plug chop test yet, and I was wondering if you are familiar with this type of look. Thanks!
  24. hey guys. i have an 03 rm 125 with jetting issues. i've jetted it multiple times. currently has all stock jetting (460 main,40 pilot, 3 down on clip) and i'm running amsoil dominator full synthetic premix. was running castor 927 but fouled a $30 plug which i'm not very happy about. anyways.. does my plug look alright? should i run a $30 plug in it? i'm not trying to get it too lean, and i'm not trying to foul plugs. 440 (next size down) is too lean. not sure what to do. this is how my plugs are looking right now. there not too wet, just pretty dark
  25. I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have not found any options available for the new 2018 bikes. I live and work for a new Beta Dealer (Auburn Extreme Powersports) in California, and we are having a difficult time mapping the RR-S bikes for full FMF exhausts. We have tried contacting Beta Support several times for this issue to no avail, and we typically are given the runaround when transferring to techs and secretaries. From what we can gather, the FMF flash is designed for the RR bikes, but not the street-legal counterparts. Every time we try to install the FMF map onto an RR-S errors occur, and the programmer screen goes virtually blank. We have heard through the grapevine that some are using the RR maps on the RR-S with success, but we have yet to try it, even on our own bikes for fear that it will permanently erase or damage the CDI. Any and all help or suggestions regarding this topic would surely be appreciated! Thanks, Ben.
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