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Found 35 results

  1. Hi all, I have a completely stock 2005 Suzuki drz110 (same thing as a klx110) and it is running way to rich. It wont idle at all but will hang before it dies. It puffs a little bit of black smoke too. It always starts 1st kick and has decent power. Jets are stock at 35 pilot and 80 main. playing with the idle and fuel screws don`t do anything. Spark plug is black but it doesn't foul plugs. checked all around engine for air leaks with carb and choke cleaner and have found none. Air filter is clean and valves were just adjusted. Im out of things to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Luke
  2. I've got a 1999 Suzuki RM125 (PWK carb, ProCircuit Exhaust). The settings are correct for what ProCircuit has for jet sizes in my temp range. I believe it's running rich because of three reasons: Very smoky Very sooty (black drips spray out tailpipe) Engine revs very high when fuel runs out, until it's empty and shuts off. It also leaks fuel. So I'm wondering if these could be related. The idea is that because of the fuel leak, there is something (float or float needle worn) that is letting too much fuel in, causeing it to run rich. Then when the fuel runs out, it finally isn't running too rich and revs up because the idle screw was turned all the way up to compensate for the richness. I will check the float level and go from there. Does this sound like a possible fix?
  3. I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have not found any options available for the new 2018 bikes. I live and work for a new Beta Dealer (Auburn Extreme Powersports) in California, and we are having a difficult time mapping the RR-S bikes for full FMF exhausts. We have tried contacting Beta Support several times for this issue to no avail, and we typically are given the runaround when transferring to techs and secretaries. From what we can gather, the FMF flash is designed for the RR bikes, but not the street-legal counterparts. Every time we try to install the FMF map onto an RR-S errors occur, and the programmer screen goes virtually blank. We have heard through the grapevine that some are using the RR maps on the RR-S with success, but we have yet to try it, even on our own bikes for fear that it will permanently erase or damage the CDI. Any and all help or suggestions regarding this topic would surely be appreciated! Thanks, Ben.
  4. I just pulled the spark plug from an 2014 350 KTM EXC-F after a season and I don't know what to say. Bike is euro map, stock motor, stock pipe with db killer in. Only things removed were catalytic converter, lambda sensor, air restrictors on the intake nozzle and on the air filter. TPS is set at 0.59 . It shouldn't be rich, but looks like it, and there's also the build up on the lip.... I didn't do the plug chop test yet, and I was wondering if you are familiar with this type of look. Thanks!
  5. Hi, Background: I recently acquired a 1993 dr350s and I cannot fix a rich condition; I am about to purchase a TM33 pumper carb off of eBay but I hate when I am not able to figure something out. Hopefully someone here is able to give some insight! Tried: The bike is 100% stock. I have replaced the vacuum petcock with a standard one, and replaced every jet and rubber piece float and needle with OEM Suzuki pieces, triple checked float height, the idle, main jet, and choke valve and seat surfaces appear to all be in perfect condition, etc. Symptoms: With the bike fully warm and choke off, the bike idles highest with the idle mixture screw all the way lean and dies if any choke is applied. It also smells rich, does not hot start, spits black soot, and pops on deceleration, low power, etc. The only unusual thing is where the idle mixture screw pulls fuel from there are three little pinholes drilled straight through into the throat of the carb. They do not look OEM, and I tried to epoxy them shut but I think I rushed it and the gas ate my JB weld... are these factory or did someone try to correct an old vacuum leak with this? Thank you!
  6. hey guys. i have an 03 rm 125 with jetting issues. i've jetted it multiple times. currently has all stock jetting (460 main,40 pilot, 3 down on clip) and i'm running amsoil dominator full synthetic premix. was running castor 927 but fouled a $30 plug which i'm not very happy about. anyways.. does my plug look alright? should i run a $30 plug in it? i'm not trying to get it too lean, and i'm not trying to foul plugs. 440 (next size down) is too lean. not sure what to do. this is how my plugs are looking right now. there not too wet, just pretty dark
  7. I have a 2019 Kx100, completely stock. I am looking to put an Fmf fatty expansion chamber as well as an fmf shorty silencer. Stock from the factory, the Kx100s come slightly rich, which is true on my bike. Spark plugs are black, and I have fouled one already. I am waiting to put the pipe on to mess with jetting, but the real question is that if my bike is rich already, and I add a new chamber and silencer, would that possibly make the bike leaner, or would I still have to go down in jets or needle clip? If so, recommendations on what jets or needles I should change to? All jets are stock, with stock NAPF needle. Thanks
  8. Hey everybody, first post after years of lurking. Saturday I traded my johnboat for another bike. A very rough 2006 ttr125 with a 150 big bore kit. (no idea who made the kit). She starts first kick no matter what, idles and runs great until about 7/8 to full throttle where it proceeds to fall on its face until I let up. Bike has an "aftermarket" carb that i'm having trouble identifying. The only marking on it is an "M" cast on the side of the body. the insides look brand new but the jets dont have sizes on them. I can post pics as soon as I get off work but without knowing what size jets I have i'm not sure what kit to purchase. Starting to think a new mikuni would be the best course of action. Any Ideas or discussion would be great. Thanks a ton in advance. -Ricky
  9. hey guys, my old rm125 is spooging and whenever i get on the gas it smokes a ton. It hits powerband pretty good I think, then again I have no idea as this is the only dirtbike ive ridden. My plug is wet, i have a keihin pj carb with a 155 main which I think is lean so I have no idea why it smokes so much. I mix 32:1 and used kawasaki racing 2 stroke oil, maybe this oil just smokes lots? I have no where to really get it on the pipe for a long time so it could be just loaded up. I just did a full engine rebuild with new crank seals and it seems my gear oil is not going down. I will keep an eye on it tho. I think i might just go to the original mukuni tmx carb that was stock. The guy i bought it from was a hack so Im not surprised if the carb is completely off. I am also running atf so I think it would smell like atf, and right now all the smoke is blue. Thanks
  10. Hi, I have an issue with my RM 85... I bought it a couple months ago and am having a problem. For the most part my bike will run just fine. But once in awhile I will let off the throttle and the rpms will hang for a few seconds then drop back down. I know for a fact my bike is running pretty rich so it definitely isn't a lean condition. I know it isn't just me whiskey throttling because I will completely let off and it will still hang for a couple of seconds. This may be a carburetor problem or cable problem I don't know. I turned the handlebars both ways and I don't hear the rpms go up. Please help me because I have no idea what it truly is. And just to restate, it will only do this very rarely, like once a ride but it usually is fine. Thank you for any help.
  11. Apologies for the long post, but I’m including as much info as possible. I have a 2-Stroke Yamaha TDR250 1KT, same motor as the TZR250 apparently. I just completed a top-end rebuild. I only replaced the left piston as the right one look good. Probably should have replaced both, but anyway… My problem is the right cylinder/exhaust gets very hot very quickly and smokes a lot. The exhaust is hot only after 30 seconds of idling. The left remains room temperature and does not smoke. I don’t want to ride it too much in case it causes irreparable damage. But when I did try to ride her, I can only get a few hundred meters before she cuts out. I have to start again and can not get into 2nd gear before it stalls again. I’d have to limp home at a bicycle’s pace as anything above idle revs kills the engine. Not sure if the poor running is related to the hot exhaust, or another problem entirely. I’ve done the following troubleshooting: - swapped around plugs – no difference - swapped around plug leads – no difference - swapped around Carburetors (but not the Jet Needles) – This then made the left cylinder smoke and the right smoked a little, but not as much as previously. The carbs are back on their original sides as they are specifically left and right. - sprayed carb cleaner onto the carb boots to test for air leaks and that had no effect. - Raised the Jet Needle in the right carb for a richer mixture – It appears to smoke less (could be my imagination), but it still gets hot quickly. - Checked the plugs again and the troublesome cylinder’s plug looks to be running very rich (all dirty), so I lowered the needle this time for a leaner mixture. Still no difference. I removed the exhaust and wiped my finger in the cylinder’s exhaust port. Looks like black paint! Has anyone ever experienced this and what was the solution?
  12. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  13. i helping my friend with his 2006, the bike only starts when giving throttle and wont idle and back fires a lot. he put in an all ballz rebuild kit last year, and i just took the carb apart and cleaned it using an ultrasonic cleaner. i also installed a JD jet kit and new slide seal, also cleaned out the pilot port with wire/fishing line. i know its the carb because i have the same bike and i put my carb in it and it ran great. i also have his carb set up with the same size jets and fuel screw setting. Edit: it has an aluminum hot start nut too, so thats not it either.
  14. Hey guys question here with the bike. It’s a chinese pitbike xmotos xt125r/peacemoto xb38 motor is identical to ssr125 motor for reference. Back story of the bike is I bought it used from a guy who bought a house and the bike came with it and a cr250 bummer it was sold before I got there but anyways it has been sitting. Had old bad gas that I drained most of and the fuel filter had a lot of dirt and gunk in it that I drained from the filter. It did idle when I test rode it then it stopped idling without gassing it or having the choke on. Bright side is I cleaned the carb and the jets and now it idles and starts on it’s on without throttle or choke assistance. but the main issue is it still keeps bogging when I try to gas it all the way and I cannot go past 25mph. If I keep accelerating it while it’s bogging it’ll eventually just stop and shut off. Only thing I have done to the bike was changed the oil, changed the spark plug cleaned the carb and jets and adjusted the idle mixture screw to try and make it run richer nothing really helps. I ordered a new carb the same PZ26 carb and a new fuel filter along with a uni air filter. Also posted on reddit I was told to come here as well. They recommended bigger jets, a mikuni carb which I will get, new fuel filter and to check the air filter, most said running lean and fuel delivery issue only one person has said spark/timing and running too rich so far. heres the video of what it’s doing which is from Reddit. This is the best video as I did this today and really got on the throttle :
  15. Whats up guys. I bought a 2000 DRZ400 (Kickstart only model) a while back. I took it to the dealer when I got it so they could do a valve check and carb clean. The dealer closest to me (Plano Kawasaki Suzuki Roxor) sucks. When they gave me the bike back, the coolant overflow bowl was shattered and the bike still ran like shit. It ran good enough, but never to peak power. It bogs on WOT, smells like fuel all the time, and cant start with the choke out, so I think it is running too rich. Yesterday after a while of not riding, it started backfireing and stalling in 4th and 5th gear at 40 to 50. It also seems to be burning oil really bad. I did an oil change about 400 miles ago and today doing one there was only 1 quart of oil left. The oil and backfireing are my main concerns. I am doing an oil change today and am going to run some stuff to clean the fuel through the fuel system. Any solution to these problems y'all can think of? Thanks y'all.
  16. My 2008 yz450f is running really lean. I know this because it has hanging rpms and it pops and bangs a lot, lot of backfire especially on deceleration. It barely idles and when I slow down and twist the throttle to get going agin I dies. The jetting spec for my bike with my DRD exhaust is 165 main 45 pilot 4 needle position. These settings and setting close to them do not work. I have gone all the way up to 52 sized pilot and the bike still seems to run lean. Tried all fuel screw positions also.
  17. Hello, today I started to do further research on my issue. I have a 04 yz250f and I feel as if it’s overheating I say this because when the bike is in nuetral coasting or idle coolant flows out the overflow. So now I’m pretty sure I know what’s wrong and it’s that I’m too lean the bike backfires on deceleration but the throttle response is perfect. Also, the motor seems to remain at high rpms after the clutch is engaged. I took the carb apart and this is what I found. (I do trail riding, I know the radiators are getting enough air flow I’m not going slow enough for that to be the issue that’s what I think at least) Main jet—178 pilot jet-72 Jet needle groove position-4th down Pilot Screw Adjustment- The bike stays running at about 2 turns out but to have more throttle control best would be 3-3.5 basically all the way out. P.s I’m not very familiar with these carbs so if you can leave some information on how theses things work and what I should do, the bike starts up first kick clutch engages every time the bike just gets extremely hot.
  18. I need to know the difference between having a lean gas mix and a lean fuel/air ratio. I know that 100:1 is leaner than 50:1 which is leaner than 32:1, and I have an idea of what leaner fuel/air looks like, or too lean, but what are the signs of the gas mixture being too lean? I am currently switching my gas mixture from 32:1 to 50:1 and I ride a KTM 250sx and I will tune my carb, etc. I made a whole thread on this already and I'm pretty positive the bike will run 50:1 fine since the recommended is 60:1 without having to jet it due to the fact that the guy never jetted the carb for 32:1, it is still jetted for 60:1. I just need to know what the signs of lean gas or fuel/air mixture and the difference. I shouldn't even need to know the sign of lean gas, if there are any... I don't wanna &%$#@! up the bike. I would at least like to know the sign of lean air/fuel ratio so that I can adjust since idk the signs of what I would see if it is too lean or rich.
  19. Im hoping someone can help me diagnose a problem with my bike I picked up a few months ago. About the bike: 1992 KX250, boysen rad valve (reeds look good), full FMF fatty pipe and silencer (both new), keihin 38 pwk with fmf recommended jets, which are new (162 main, 58 pilot, 3rd clip position, 1.5 turns out on the air screw, proper float height), new air filter, elevation 1200 feet above sea level, 32/1 using Klotz super technic and 93 gas from the pump, compression 225 psi, and the previous owner put a wiseco complete bottom end kit in it right before I got it. It starts up first kick when "cold" and idles pretty good but smokes heavily and has lots of spooge coming from the exhaust. When riding at slow speeds it sounds like a 4 stroke. It doesn't sound at all like my KX125 or any other 2 stroke and won't rev out. The smoke is a blueish color and lingers for a bit. I did a leak down test on it and it lost 2 psi over 10 minutes so I pulled the clutch cover and couldn't see any bubbles coming from the right side crank seal after spraying some soapy water on it. I did find an air leak at the power valve seal which i'll be replacing. I don't think its burning transmission fluid (atf type f) because I don't believe I'm losing any and the exhaust smells just like my 125. I cleaned the carb and even with the jets I had laying around (158 main, and 48 pilot) it still smokes like a pig and "4 strokes" Would any of you think it could be the jet block gasket causing it to suck extra gas from the bowl causing a rich condition? I'm sorta at a loss on this one. I can post a video of it running if that would help. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  20. I have a 2013 rmz250 that had been running like a dream until it hit 30 hours on a new rebuild done by a shop and paid for by previous owner. I bought this bike with 19 hours on it and loved every second spent on it until it started to act like it was running out of fuel when it got hot. I got it most of the way back to my barn and had to push it the rest. It would start just fine, run for about 3-4 seconds then quit. 3-4 times. I let it sit overnight and the next day I tried it again and the kick-start lever won't even move even with 220 pounds on it. I took out the spark plug to investigate and decided to try to kick it over a few times. After 2-3 kicks it took almost no effort like it should have and I thought it would most likely be fine so I put the spark plug back in, hooked everything back up, and it started up just fine but would still die after 3-4 seconds, and now I'm right back where I started and the lever wont even move. Any ideas on what this could be?
  21. Hey guys. I just put a new top end in my 1999 Suzuki RM125 that I bought without ever seeing run. It started up easily, but I think something isn't quite right. Here are the issues: Black, sooty, oily stuff comes out the tail pipe, and also accumulates at the joint between the fatty pipe and silencer, and drips down onto the rear master cylinder. It's really smoky. The power seems a little low, and there is no really noticeable increase in power. Gas drips out of the carb when the bike is off. Sometimes when I ride and let off the throttle, the revs will climb on their own. Not sure if this is a possible clutch issue where it doesn't grab (acting as if in neutral). From these symptoms, I think that the carb needs to be cleaned and tuned, so that less fuel is burned (its running too rich), other than number 5. I think it has something to do with the float bowl, what do you guys think?
  22. Hey guys. A few months ago i bought a ragged out 97 rm250. Cylinder was gone and crank side to side play was TERRIBLE.plastics where trash seat everything pretty much. So i COMPLETELY rebuilt her. New crank. New stock size wiesco topend. Had cylinder plated and hatched. Put v force reeds on it and new pro circuit platinum exhaust with new pro circuit 304 factory sound silencer. She runs like a raped ape on crack..BUT its runnin rich as hell and hard to start. About 6 to 7 kicks sometimes. I jetted it to pro circuit chart and was rich. So i got my stock needle at the leanest postition. Got a 42 pilot in it and a 170 main. Also. The v force reeds had a gap in them. I could see light through them..i didnt think i was supposed to see that on a set of BRAND NEW 160 dollar reeds. My elevation is about 1000 feet asl. What should my jetting be? Im mixing at 40:1 on 87 octane. Using the br8es plugs i Believe they are called. Ngk. And i tightened my gap a bit as well. She should fire one kick with all that compression. Anyone can tell me where my jetting should be? Would be much appreciated...i mean..its better rich than lean..but im still lookin for that cardboard color on my plugs when im stuck with charcoal atm. Thanks in advance.
  23. Hi all, I have a completely stock 2005 Suzuki drz110 (same thing as a klx110) and it is running way to rich. It wont idle at all but will hang before it dies. It puffs a little bit of black smoke too. It always starts 1st kick and has decent power. Jets are stock at 35 pilot and 80 main. playing with the idle and fuel screws don`t do anything. Spark plug is black but it doesn't foul plugs. checked all around engine for air leaks with carb and choke cleaner and have found none. Air filter is clean and valves were just adjusted. Im out of things to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Luke
  24. Just bought a 2007 YZ250, my first 2 stroke. Want to stud the tires and ride it through the winter. Elevation is about 300m above sea level. Temperature ranges 0 to -20 degrees Celcius. What should I jet it at for these temperatures? Do I change needle position also? Not sure what current jetting is, oil ratio is 32:1 and tons of spooge out the exhaust pipe. Thanks!
  25. So I just got done rebuilding my 2000 rm 250 bottom and top end. Its bored over 2.10mm to be a 265 (I believe). It has a Pro circuit header, FMF shorty silencer, and vforce 1 reeds. Its just barely broken in maybe an hour or two on it so far. It keeps fouling plugs and sounds a little rich. Its running a 160 Main (2 up from stock) and 48 Pilot (1 up from stock) with the needle clip on the stock setting. Should I change my needle clip position? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated!
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