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Showing results for tags 'rings'.
Found 16 results
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Does anybody know where in the US I can buy a ring set? Failing that a piston and ring set for a 2001 Gas Gas 321TXT? How about a part number for each as well? Thanks -
My kx100 won't start. It gives a little purr when I kick it like it wants to. Spark plug is good. I never took apart the bottom end so idk if that could be bad. But I changed the piston but don't ask why but I used an old ring on the piston and one new one. The cylinder has a gash in it kind of like it was grinded by the piston a bit but that may be a problem. It's an 08. I tested the compression and got 85, and then tested 75 so it's bad. Could one bad piston be the problem? The piston was torn up bad so I'm sure the ring was bad. It was sharp too. Could that solve it? Thanks
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So I messed up and got 66mm rings instead of 65.5 which I believe is the correct size rings for stock bore on a 1990 xr 200. Can I just gap to spec and send it or do I need to buy some 65.5mm rings?? Sorry if its a no-brainer but I hate to wait for more rings to come in the mail if there's no reason to.
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this is probably a stupid question.....but...if i had compression loss ,and there was no smoking, thats a a sign the rings are still good? #2 is it posable to lose said compression somwhere else like compression lever stuck? thanks in advance....(1981 xr500r)
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Does anyone know if the 1986 Honda TLR 200 has the same piston and rings as a XR200 if the same year? Also are clutches the same? Any help would be much appreciated, thanks in advance.
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Hey y'all, First post here, and it's been a tad while. I had another account a while back, but can't get back into it. Oh well. Anyways... I need a little bit of help. I'm in a tight place. I've had this 1970 Honda ct90 trail bike. Been in the family forever, excellent condition, low miles, used to run great... Until we took it to a shop and explicitly told them to change the air cleaner out among other things (the filter was old and crumbling and wasn't doing much good regardless). Well, they didn't change it and the engine over time sucked in a bunch of that old foam. We didn't notice anything wrong until smoke started coming out the pipe. So we broke down and did a top end (just the rings) and yes, changed that air cleaner out the right way. We got the parts from a dealership (big mistake-they gave us the wrong piston rings) and threw it together. More smoke than before. So we broke down again and tore it apart for a second time, more meticulously this time. We bored the cylinder and put a new piston and rings. Yes, the correct ones this time. .025 over. Put it together, fired it up...and lo and behold, more smoke than ever before. Clouds of the stuff. We were frustrated, but not as frustrated as when we did it extremely meticulously for a third time and got the same result. Checked the cylinder, dead on. checked the rings in the bore, dead on. Clocked the rings. Symbols on all three rings facing up (is it any other way?) and this time, replaced the valve seal and both valves. Ground new seats. Just to be absolutely sure. Oddly enough, this bike does not have an oil seal for the intake valve, I checked it twice. Still smokes like the dickens. Well folks, my first rebuild and maybe my last. Could I just have gotten two sets of bad rings? I must have done something wrong, but I just can't think of what. Rings and seals replaced. If you could offer some cycle wisdom, it would be greatly appreciated.
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I'll try to keep this short with as much detail as possible.. Bike was running hot and coolant was coming out of the overflow, then it stopped, and then started again. Coolant probably had 10 hours on it so it was fairly fresh. Stopped riding for a few minutes and then my electric start was acting as if my battery was dead, eventually got it to kick and start up to get it to the garage. Wouldn't kick after a few minutes so I hooked the battery up to my charger and it fired right up and got a lot of white smoke (it appeared). Revved it a bit in case it was just moisture since I had just been riding a stream (only 6 inches deep or so no water should have gotten into the exhaust system) but smoke continued. First instinct said head gasket so I drained the coolant and it was very low and had some black specks.. after draining the oil, it still looked brand new and there appeared to be no coolant whatsoever in it.. Removed the spark plug and it had a small amount of oil on it. Even though it is at least burning coolant, does this sound like piston ring and not a head gasket failure? Do you think it is the head gasket and the coolant was just burning off quickly and that's why I'm not seeing it in the oil? I have had a little smoke on initial start up for a little but I figured it was from running fuel rich but now I'm thinking it was burning coolant off the whole time. Any ideas? Thanks!
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Bike was running extremely rough (similar to running very lean, lots of backfiring and very loud) when I started it, and billowing white smoke. The oil also smelled of gas, which may be a result of flooding it trying to get it started so many times prior but it could be rings as well. In case it was the coolant causing that white smoke I figured I'd change the headgasket since I needed a project during all this quarantine business, and I found some scoring on the exhaust side of my cylinder (pictured). I can just barely feel the largest score with my finger, the others are smooth to the touch. I included a picture of my piston as well. Should I do anything about this? I don't want to mess up my cylinder if it was just a problem with my carb, etc.
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So I just bought a 2017 rmz 250 and I was wondering how often I have to rebuild the top end. I figured as long as a keep the oil changed every 3 hours and a new oil filter every other oil change and keeping the air filter clean I wouldn't have to touch the top end very often but the book says every 20 hours and I don't think I can fit that in my budget so often, any opinion is appreciated, thanks.
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I have a 2002 drz400s that just hit 11,500 miles. I've owned it about 1000 of those miles and they were done some highway, some urban street and some trail. I had an issue a while back with the float needle seat o-ring letting fuel into the oil, changed the o-ring and that seemed to be the end of it. At first the bike wasn't running great but after fixing that carb issue, a 3x3 mod and a JD jet kit I'm in love with this machine...which is why I'm very concerned about her drinking oil!!! Ive noticed over about the last 300 miles or so it has gone from full on the dip stick to about half. This morning I took her around the block to get her all warmed up and check the oil and it was about 3/4 of the way up the stick. This afternoon I did about 40 miles highway and 20 miles trail and came back and checked and it was half. I decided to dump a little oil in there until it read full on the stick. I"m confused because the bike is running pretty well and if it was drinking that much oil and had bad rings I would think this would be noticed. There are no leaks on the floor of my garage or any signs on the engine thats its leaking, also no sign of oil in the exhaust. So ...What could it be, is it immediately serious, and can I just keep adding oil and get another 1000 miles out of it before I have to rebuild her?
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Before I put my 05 CRF250R away for the winter it was running weird. I noticed it was leaking oil out of the engine cover. It was understandable because i had just put a new stator in. The bike had been running oddly for some time before i realized it was leaking. I just took the bike out for the spring and now it doesn't even start. I bought a new engine gasket to try to fix the leak. I am currently installing it. I am wondering if the low compression could've messed up the top end? I rode it with low compression for about three weeks before it started to bog so bag i couldn't ride it anymore. Will replacing the seal fix my issue or have i created a whole new one? -
hey i have a 1993 xr100 that I did all the work on I bought it and it was smoking bad so i did a big bore top end rode it for about a year, then ran into problems with the timing chain so i took it apart installed a new timing chain all the tensions, cleaned up the valves, inspected the top end, put a stage one cam in it, ive been ripping it for like two months, it only ever burned oil on startup for 5 mins then cleared up all the way, today i was riding home from a ride at the pit, i stopped and was idling for a second when it started bogging and burning oil oil pretty bad all of a sudden. what could have gone wrong to cause this sudden problem, ring? valves? also its been doing this but the crank case vent hose blows air, does this mean i have blow by somewhere? thanks in advance for any input.
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I recently acquired a 1998 rt180 for a Chinese bike I had and let’s just say it has a fair amount of problems. Missing air box, low compression, bent shift shaft, missing rear brake shoes, water in the carb…. I took apart the top end to see the condition of the cylinder and it was decent enough to reuse so I’m deciding to just replace the rings and see how well that fixes the compression. My question is do I need to buy specific piston rings made for the rt180 or will any 65.50mm rings work? I’m asking because it’s significantly cheaper to buy them if I can get just 65.50 rings and not rt180 std 65.50 rings.
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All, Question regarding expected compression after rebuild. 2001 DRZ400e. The head was redone by fast heads and I installed a new piston and rings. The cylinder still showed honing marks and had no scratches or gouges, so I cleaned it up lightly with a scotch brite pad (at opposing angles) and hot soapy water and put it all back together. My only spark plug broke during re-assembly so it has not been run yet. The rings were installed dry per directions in the sticky - I did oil the skirt however. I turned it over a couple of times to check compression and I'm at 60 psi. Is that normal for a rebuild that hasn't been run yet? I'm hoping that is because the rings have not sealed up fully? Thanks
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I have a 79 mx100 engine and its really hard to find rings for and I was wondering if you could measure the bore and just buy rings for it I looked it up already and found some 52x1.5 but there for a Husqvarna chainsaw would this still work?
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I am totally new to this website (never have posted anything) so I hope I'm doing this right. But I just bought a brand new standard bore cylinder (cylinder works) for my 2004 yz250 and it comes with a vertex piston and rings in the box as well. I got it from Rocky mountain.. my question is, do I have to worry about ring gap since it's all brand new or do you only worry about ring gap when you have a cylinder that's been wore out a little? Thank you for your time
