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Found 50 results

  1. So i bought a 1992 rm125 about 1 week ago and it ran fine! i got it home and rode it for about 3 days, then after i let it cool down for about 20 minuets it would not start! I checked for spark, and for some reason, there was no spark. I bought a new ngk plug, and still nothing! I went through all the usual stuff, and still nothing! I bought a new stater, put it on, and now it will bump start, but not start using the kick starter. ( the kick starter is 100% good ) I think it may be the ignition coil, but i am not 100% sure. Any ideas?
  2. I was going to change the oil on my dirt bike and i was going to use Rotella T Triple protection but the only one I could find was Rotella t4 15-40w. I think its the same thing but I just wanted to make sure. Can anyone confirm this?
  3. Hi guys i have some questions and would appreciate any help you guys may have. I have a 1998 yz 250 ive had for a few years thats been in the famliy for awile. I am doing a ground up redo on it this winter. Im geting a used frame because the one i have dosent have a title so i figured wile im at it ill get a 1998/1997 wr 250 frame so i can make it street legal. I know the 98 wr 250 wasent introduced in the us but the 97 was and the yz 250 is the same bike from 96 to 98. So my question is are the wr 250s the same ? Could i find a 97 wr250 frame and swap everything from my 98 yz 250 to it ? I wont realy ride it on the street much considering its not the best bike for commuting (by far) lol, but i figure if im geting another frame with a title miswell be able to throw my street tires on it and rip some twistes with it if i want to. Thanks for any help.
  4. I have a recently rebuilt rmz270. Cylinder works bb kit with stage 2 Hotcams. All new stock valve train. Valves, guides, springs, everything. Shimmed. New spark plug. Running MX4 Renegade fuel with stock rich coupler. Bike is amazing. Pulls much longer and harder in every gear. My only issue is I’m having trouble figuring out is, After I’ve ran the bike and it gets up to running temp, it basically wants to flame out if I come to a dead stop in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. Thought I didn’t have the clutch adjusted right and I replaced the plates, steels and fibers, but nothing helped. So now I’m thinking it’s fuel related or mapping issue like it needs to be richer still. But then again if I do the same scenario but I put the bike in neutral then it will sit there and idle and won’t flame out while it’s already hot. Needing some advice or help. Thanks
  5. Looking to put newer shrouds on my 06 rmz 250. Will 07 shrouds work? Boly holes look almost identical
  6. Hi, I’m having spark issues on my kx250f. If anyone is willing to do swaptronics with me, please let me know. Not sure what the problem is, so I figured someone could help me out by doing this. Thanks
  7. I have a Voss helmet and really like it I was wondering if anyone else has experience with their products and what they think.
  8. Ive got a real bugger here. I have a 2007 RMZ250 with a recent top end rebuild. New Wiseco piston and rings, new exhaust valves, new head, and new stage 2 Hotcams. The valves were lapped to the new head. I also put a FMF megabomb on it too. Ok, so right after I finished the rebuild, it started on the 4th kick and ran strong. I did a couple heat cycles and both times it started right up. Next day I was ready to do a 1/2 throttle break-in and it took a while to start this time. It finally started and I rode it and it ran perfect. The low end power was really smooth. After that, I let it cool completely down for the next ride. Couple hours later and I started it up again (not much hassle) but as soon as I cranked the throttle for the first time, my low end power was gone but my high end power-band was crisp. The low end would garble and choke but as soon as I gave it more gas, It hit the power-band and ran fine. I ran it like this for around 30 minutes, nothing changed. I parked it and let it cool down completely again and that was the last time it ran. It would not start after that. I kicked it for about 15 minutes in total and tried to bump start it. Nothing. I then cleaned the carb and tried again- still nothing, every 10th kick or so it would pop but that was it. I put a new spark plug in it and still nothing. Another thing, I weigh 155 pounds and can barely kick it over. I have to literally put all of my weight on the kick start lever and sometimes it still wont turn over. could the auto-decompression not be working right? Do the valved need to be re shimmed with the hotcams? Would the megabomb cause it to not run with the stock jetting now even though it ran fine before I cranked on the throttle? Im stumped guys. Any thoughts or Ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
  9. Hi guys i have some questions and would appreciate any help you guys may have. I have a 1998 yz 250 ive had for a few years thats been in the famliy for awile. I am doing a ground up redo on it this winter. Im geting a used frame because the one i have dosent have a title so i figured wile im at it ill get a 1998/1997 wr 250 frame so i can make it street legal. I know the 98 wr 250 wasent introduced in the us but the 97 was and the yz 250 is the same bike from 96 to 98. So my question is are the wr 250s the same ? Could i find a 97 wr250 frame and swap everything from my 98 yz 250 to it ? I wont realy ride it on the street much considering its not the best bike for commuting (by far) lol, but i figure if im geting another frame with a title miswell be able to throw my street tires on it and rip some twistes with it if i want to. Thanks for any help.
  10. Hi guys i have some questions and would appreciate any help you guys may have. I have a 1998 yz 250 ive had for a few years thats been in the famliy for awile. I am doing a ground up redo on it this winter. Im geting a used frame because the one i have dosent have a title so i figured wile im at it ill get a 1998/1997 wr 250 frame so i can make it street legal. I know the 98 wr 250 wasent introduced in the us but the 97 was and the yz 250 is the same bike from 96 to 98. So my question is are the wr 250s the same ? Could i find a 97 wr250 frame and swap everything from my 98 yz 250 to it ? I wont realy ride it on the street much considering its not the best bike for commuting (by far) lol, but i figure if im geting another frame with a title miswell be able to throw my street tires on it and rip some twistes with it if i want to. Thanks for any help.
  11. Does anyone know where to get a cylinder honed/resurfaced? Looking at ebay for a "slightly used" one and i'm finding a couple for a decent price but I would like to touch them up a bit. Any input would be appreciated, thanks.
  12. airbox is off the throttle works like it should but when I put it back together it gets stuck open. Also the carb leaks but not from the over flow I've included pictures but I don't even know what that is. I really need help and any suggestions are appreciated
  13. I recently purchased an 04 RMZ250 and when the airbox is off the throttle works like it should but when I put it back together it gets stuck open. Also the carb leaks but not from the over flow I've included pictures but I don't even know what that is. I really need help and any suggestions are appreciated
  14. Hey, got a 2014 rmz250 with SFF forks, standard springs, 1.0kg/mm in the forks, 5.5 kg/mm in the shock. Weighing in at a whole 155lbs without gear and running at an intermediate/B class mid to back pack pace I need this bike to become much more comfortable. Race Tech recommends: Fork: - 0.88kg/mm Shock: - 5.3kg/mm Race Tech appears to be a very reputable company and I apologize for questioning their knowledge but I am simply curious. For those who have used their calculator how accurate were their recommended rates. Fork: - 0.88kg/mm My main question for the fork is that their recommended rate seems like a drastic jump in fork spring rate. Maybe this is normal because their is only one spring up front? shock: - 5.4kg/mm or 5.2kg/mm are the springs available for the shock. Does one spring rate on the shock make that much of a difference? Currently with 107mm race sag which is what I find comfortable on this setup, I have 52mm of static sag (Not good, Too stiff) My main question for the shock would be if there is any way to know the amount of change in static sag from one spring rate to another. (5.5 to 5.4.. would that be enough to make the static 35mm. or would a 5.2 be better) What is everyone running for spring rate to make the suspension bearable?
  15. Seized my engine last weekend because i put in my oil filter one backwards... i'm a dummy. Needles to say I need a new cylinder and a new piston this is what i'm ordering or at least planning to order.. Piston : https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/974/3784/Wiseco-Piston-Kit?v=533&s=47466 Cylinder: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-KAWASAKI-KX250F-OEM-CYLINDER-JUG-TOPEND-TOP-END-KX250-KX-250F-250-F-RMZ250/192304125998?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 going used on the cylinder to save some money. My question is.. has anyone done one of these and if so do you have a step by step how to? or know of a video on how to do it? on a bit of a budget and want to get back riding as soon as possible. Thanks for looking!
  16. Hi need help stiffening the rear shock I want to raise the bike as it sits too low for me, Im 85kg what setting should I do like how many clicks thanks
  17. Hey guys, Backstory: 2010 RMZ 250, bike always ran and shifted great, no false neutrals, everything was fine and good serviced. Did another rebuild recently (3rd one so far). New Rod and athena 290 bigbore kit this time. Gearbox looked fine upon inspection. Bike started, ran and shifted great after rebuild. So, here's the problem now: after a few laps, the bike started sputtering and clonking in 4th gear and only in 4th gear. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th had no issues at all. The sputtering felt like a fuel problem, it just won't rev up. When i was trying to figure out what was wrong, the transmission locked up in 4th gear on the bike stand. Sure enough i ripped the whole engine apart again and found a broken shift fork (the one for the 5th gear). Everything else seemed good. So i installed a new shift fork and inspected the other parts. Bike starts, shifts smooth and sounds good. Rolling in all gears is no problem. But again, the 4th gear sputters under load. And that's where i am now. Going to open the engine again. But maybe somebody has an idea what's causing my problem. Seems to make no sense to me. Mike
  18. I have an 01 RM125, Need help what year plastics on the rmz fit on the rm like front plastics Has anyone else done it here?
  19. So I have a 2009 rmz250 that I want to put 2010 plastics on. I know I can and how to rig up the front fender. But I want to know if the rest of the plastics need any rigging? Such as radiator shroud covers, side panels, rear fender.
  20. My friend recently got his chain adjuster bolt that threads into the swingarm stuck because the previous owner put loctite or something on it and the bolt broke and is almost but not completely flush with the swingarm. he tried drilling it out and it didn't work, tried an easy out and the easy broke and is stuck inside the bolt now. Any tips to avoid buying a whole new swingarm?
  21. Hello I want to order a 2016 gearbox but I have a question. Does a rmz 250 2016 gearbox fit in a rmz 250 2015 engine ? because I have always have problems with the 15 gearbox and the 16 gearbox is much better i have ask 6 local dealers but they think it fits but nowone nows it for sure do anybody can help my ? Greetings Rens
  22. Hey Everyone, I have just recently gotten back into riding, and I have been trying to get my sag set on my bike. I have a 2005 RMZ 450. The manual calls for 104mm of rider sag. I am a bigger guy, 6ft and 320lbs. I know the spring that is currently on the bike is stiffer than stock, but I am not sure what the rating is on it. I currently have the bike set at 120mm rider sag, and 10mm static sag. I know this means that my spring is too soft, and I need to go to a heavier spring. However, I probably wont be able to switch out the spring for awhile. So for now, what is the best sag setting with my current spring? Should I try to get rider sag closer to 104mm, or should I worry more about raising my static sag? I do mostly trail riding and I am a novice. Will messing around with adjustments on the rear shock help?
  23. Just replaced my entire suspension and the forks are very stiff even when loosened all the way. I was wondering if the forks just needed to be ridden on to break them in.
  24. In April 2017 when I was 13, I bought myself a DRZ 125. In November of 2017, I sold that bike and bought myself a screaming YZ85. When I got bored of the low top speed of the 85, I sold it and went back to the 4 stroke. Right now, as of April-July 2018 I have had a CRF230F with MANY performance parts. I am beginning to want more power and am wondering something. I keep switching back and forth between 2 strokes and 4 strokes but I think I want my next bike to be a 2 stroke. Unless someone can give me good reason otherwise, that's what I want to go with. Anyways, I'm wondering whether or not to jump the gun and get a 250 2 stroke or just go for a 125. I've ridden many 125s during the period that I've had the 230, and they just don't seem powerful enough to satisfy me over time. On the other end, I don't want to get a 250 and be scared of my own dirtbike. I'm a lean 5'8 guy that weighs 135 pounds. I carry most my weight in my legs and arms which helps me control and kick over the bigger bikes lol. So what do you guys think? I've tamed every bike I've owned pretty quickly so far, but I think it's just because I haven't owned anything really fast. Anyways, I will either go with a 250 or 125 depending on you guys' opinions. Or some of you will suggest a 4 stroke? Any suggestions/recommendations appreciated! Thanks!
  25. I was going to service my forks with new oil and new seals that I had laying around and went to soften the rebound screw like I always do and believe that I went a turn too far. it clicks but doesn’t stop. I’ve taken the inner tube out and used a flat head screw driver to turn the D shaped push rod and it will stop like the clicker is on it going clock wise with the-flathead but going counter cw it does not. Any advice on what happened? I know I need to replace the adjuster screw since it won’t stop on the soft setting but where the push rod sits in the oil chamber or piston type thing is that messed up? Thx in advance
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