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Found 42 results

  1. ZukkiRick

    rmz 2011 RMZ 250 Electricl issues

    I have a 2011 RMZ 250. Took it to a guy & had a 270 kit installed, ran great but 1st ride it started ticking so I immediately shut it down. I tried to kick it over when got it home and the timing chain broke because a small bolt came loose inside magneto cover. (He didn't tighten the bolt) This is what caused the ticking. I Took it to a different side garage mechanic to replace timing chain. He put in a new timing chain in and the bike hasn’t had spark since. He took it apart a few times to make sure everything was correct with no luck. We have tested everything, replaced cdi box, magneto, used wiring harness, etc. Finally had enough so I went & bought a new FC350 Husky so I have something to ride. I now have it at the shop I bought the new bike from so it's with a 3rd mechanic & he has 3 1/2 hours in it and still can’t find the issue. Probably sent close to $3,000 on it already. Any ideas? Thanks, Rick #Desperate #BuriedSoDeepInThisBike
  2. hi need help what seat covers from different bikes fit oN MY RM 125 2001
  3. My rm125 leaks gas when sitting there on the stand with gas off. I've tried cleaning carb to make sure no dirt or anything! Please help! Also my kickstarter is tight when pulling out?
  4. Grimmgramz

    Manual for Rmz 450 2017?

    Could anyone direct me to where I could purchase the Manual for this bike? Much appreciated
  5. BOLT SPEEDMAN

    2013 RMZ 250 - Trouble Starting/Dying

    I apologize ahead for the lengthy read, but in troubleshooting I figure the more info the better. Skim if you need to, second half of the message has the most detail I guess, but I would GREATLY appreciate any input on the issues I'll explain below. Regardless of the response though, I will continue to update just in case this can shine some light on future problems of any others who might find this thread. I have a 2013 RMZ 250 that I picked up early last summer. The only mods (that I'm aware of) are a 270 big bore kit and full yoshi exhaust. It's been a super solid bike with the exception of the kick back/hard start issue seen in a lot of the 2013 models. We'll quickly flash back to about 9 months ago: I'm not sure how much of the hard starting to attribute to the timing retard issue, but last summer I thought I was going to have to hoof it about 3 hours out of a trail system because the bike randomly died and then wouldn't start back for at least an hour after it died. I went through all of the starting procedures, making sure I was at TDC before kicking, rolling through a couple rotations between kicks to charge the stator, used hot start, didn't use hot start, pulled the choke out, didn't pull the choke out, numerous attempted bump starts.....everything in the world for a solid hour. It just sounded like it wasn't firing at all, and I had ZERO tools on me. (What an idiot.....I know) When hope was all but lost and the bike was about to get stashed in the woods and covered with brush, I gave her a kick and she fluttered. One more kick and she fired up. I then proceeded to scoot down the trail and get back to the truck as fast as possible. Since then, not only have I never traveled without tools when in the woods again, but this has never again happened—no random shut offs, no kicking my leg off for an hour, nothing. Everything has been fine apart from the standard finicky starts this model is known for. After a SUPER sloppy ride last fall, I figured this past winter would be the best time to go through and clean out and grease all of the electrical connections on top of the standard maintenance: checking valve clearances, replacing the timing chain, new wheels bearings, gears, greasing this and that.....all standard stuff. I came across a "closeout special" on a velocity stack at Rocky Mountain and just figured since I had the bike apart and had a few other things in my cart I'd try that out too. So other than throwing in that velocity stack, all other work done was just replacing worn components with new ones. The valves were in spec btw, in the middle of the range for the exhaust side and lower end for the intake side. I take the bike out a month ago for a first ride of the season and everything works great, runs buttery smooth, no start up issues, ton's of power.....it felt like a new bike. At the end of the day there's another little hiccup with the starting. It just sounds like it's not firing again. Go to bump start it down a hill and nothing. Kick kick kick, wiggle some wires around, kick, kick, FIRES UP! I head back to the truck and load up as that was the way I was headed anyway. In reading into some threads here and elsewhere I learned about the RMZ's having the different couplers. I went out and looked the bike over to find out mine had the lean coupler in it and had read that most people had better, smoother results out of the rich (gray) coupler. I went ahead and ordered the rich coupler, a spare lean coupler as well as a couple of CR8EIA-10 plugs (what the factory plug is for the bike) so I could put a fresh one in and have a spare on hand. I'm not sure when the last time the plug was changed, not since I've had it, but when changing the plug I found the old plug to be a CR8EIB-10 instead. So I switch out the plug, dump in the new gray coupler and go to fire the bike up............and NOTHING HAPPENED. Kicked on it and wiggled stuff around for about 15 minutes, then attempted 2 bump starts, kicked and wiggled again, then bumped once more. THEN it fires up. (the bike has great compression but just sounds like its not sparking) I ride it back to my driveway and it dies as I pull in. Kick kick kick, nothing. A few more kicks, nothing. I say to hell with it and put my lean coupler back in, kick kick kick wiggle wiggle, nothing. Disconnect the kill switch, kick kick kick FIRE. Holy shnikeys, maybe it's the kill switch??? Or maybe not, just a coincidence. While it's running I pull the lean coupler and just run it without one. I cover the electrical plug so no dirt gets into it and let it idle a bit. I then take the bike out, romp around in a field behind my house once she's warm and all goes great. It's feeling good, running good, great, smmoooooooth. I head back to the house and the bike just dies. Not like it's outta fuel, just dead. I pull the clutch in, bounce and the seat and let out on the clutch and she flutters back alive. Get back to my driveway and DUUuuuurrrr........she dies again. WTF. I get it to fire back up eventually, plug the kill switch back in while running just to see if the bike would die and it didn't, then say to hell with it for the evening, I had some more responsible things to be working on. Married = Home Renovations > Dirt Bike Tooling Wrapping up: I took the original coupler (a lean one) that was in the bike when I bought it and removed the wires and plugged up the holes so that it would act as the stock coupler would, just a cap for the plug. I get out the next morning and put modified coupler back in the now empty port, kick the bike a couple of times and she fires right up, idles smooth and great. Kill it and let it rest for a few minutes, go back and give it a kick and she fires right back up. I decide I'll take it to a nearby indoor track for a little testing. Testing is going well, hit about ten laps and then outta no where it dies on me again. Kick, kick, wiggle wiggle, kick and it fires up. Another WTF. I ride it for a couple of more laps and it dies again. Not like anything is clogging the fuel injection system, just one second firing, next second not. I push it back to my pit area and think, "if it ran fine the whole time i've had it up to just recently with the lean coupler, I'm just gonna put that bish back in." I put the lean coupler in, give it a couple of kicks and it fires up. Okay, lets see where this takes us. Go back out to the track, get ready to leave the lip of a table top....BAAAWwwwwwurrrrr. She dies, gives me a little buck, I land back on the seat sack first and roll off to the side of the track. Kick kick kick, nothing.....wiggle wiggle kick kick....nothing. Roll her back to my pit area, pull the tank, swap the plug with a new one just to see, put it back together, kick kick kick, nothing. Put stock coupler back in, kick kick kick nothing. I give up, split motos with my buddy and head back home. And here we are. My thoughts now are that this is an electrical issue and something has got to be shorting out somewhere. If that is what the general consensus is then I will feel a little better, if not, it will give me some new things to think about. For now, my thoughts are that I will do a CDI, stator, flywheel, wiring harness and plug cap/coil swap from a 2014, just to ditch all of those possible components that might have a short in them along with updating so the kick back/hard start problem would be remedied....WHENEVER the bike fires again. And that's just in hopes of a 2 birds 1 stone outcome, either way, the factory issues needs addressed. Sorry for the lengthy post and 5-10 minutes of life you'll never get back after reading, but thanks to all who made it this far and who might be able to help me find a solution to this issue.
  6. Ali S.

    06 RMZ250 fuel petcock leak

    My 06 rmz 250 has a leaking fuel petcock. When i turn the fuel on, it starts leaking a lot. I dont know if it is leaking from where the petcock attaches to the tank or from behind the switch that turns fuel on or off because i saw 2 small philips screws that hold it on. What could be the problem?
  7. Derek Leverant

    EFI couplers ?

    Hey guys! New to the forum, hope this is the right spot for the question... I recently acquired a 2015 Suzuki RMZ 250, with less than 4hrs on it. Unfortunately it didn't come with the additional EFI couplers (rich/lean). I want to purchase them but having trouble finding them. On the "ELECTRICAL" schematics for the bike, I believe number 18 is the part location, but not sure if that is just one of the two additional couplers that are supposed to come with the bike? Or is it both if I order that part number? Is that even the right part? I can't find a description of the parts, and this forum seems to be the best source of information, so fingers crossed that you guys understand and can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance!!
  8. Check it out! Let me know your thoughts 2018 Shootout 450's BEHIND THE SCENES as a Test Rider
  9. ferdiRMZ 250

    RMZ 250 coolant leaking ?

    I flushed my Suzuki RMZ 250 2006 air coolant to change to a better brand coolant. But when I pour my new coolant in it started leaking out of a air hole under my engine ? I don't know what's wrong or what I did wrong any advice on how to Fix ?
  10. Hello all here goes my first post, I have a fully rebuilt rmz 450. The bike runs great, the only problem is every time I try to kick the bike over, about every other kick the bike gets hung up, like some of the teeth on the kick starter gear or the idler gear or clutch basket are messed up. I tap on the kickstarter and have to lean the bike over a bit and keep tapping the kick starter and then it will free up for a few kicks. I took the inner clutch cover off and swapped the kickstarter gear with the one that was in it because I had one laying around. Worked for about two rides, then same thing. I found quite a bit of black suit looking stuff that appeared to be from the clutch plates like it was possibly getting in between gears and causing them to bind. However, I just received a new washer/spring that goes behind the idle gear and wondering if that could be the issue.... Again, I have rebuilt a ton of motorcycle engines and am very knowledgeable, but this just baffles me because I haven't found any damage to the gears from the kickstarter, idle gear, and clutch basket. Any advise would be great. I have attached pictures of the washer and I believe the manual calls for the convex side facing inward.
  11. Tired of putting money into an old 2003 KX 250 that keeps breaking and isn't perfect for what I ride, has some upgrades but kills me every race from the suspension. I like the bike but just don't want to be the guy who puts $1000 into suspension to make it suitable. What does anyone think the best option would be? budget around $3000. 6ft 160lbs. Really interested in a crf 450x or a wr450, and I know it will be heavy for me to handle but I'm hoping the trail settings and suspension should compensate and still be better than my KX (and it would still be a fun powerful bike). Ideally I would want a 250f mx bike that already had the suspension work done, but that is rare. Is there a certain 250f to buy that would have the "best" stock mx suspension for the woods? Really want something reliable and newer (2006-2010ish) but I know I would be bored of a regular trail bike (KDX, 250x, TTR) after the first ride, and need something to be able to compete. I can deal with my 250 2Ts power but the 450x torque might be a bit much in the PA single track. KTM is an option, probably only a 2 stroke, but bikes newer than 2005 are fairly expensive and hard to come by. Any suggestions for a competitive woods bike for that budget would be great, thanks.
  12. RMZbuzz

    06 RMZ 250 shroud upgrade

    Looking to put newer shrouds on my 06 rmz 250. Will 07 shrouds work? Boly holes look almost identical
  13. Palmer_197

    2011 RM-Z 270 mapping??

    I have a recently rebuilt rmz270. Cylinder works bb kit with stage 2 Hotcams. All new stock valve train. Valves, guides, springs, everything. Shimmed. New spark plug. Running MX4 Renegade fuel with stock rich coupler. Bike is amazing. Pulls much longer and harder in every gear. My only issue is I’m having trouble figuring out is, After I’ve ran the bike and it gets up to running temp, it basically wants to flame out if I come to a dead stop in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. Thought I didn’t have the clutch adjusted right and I replaced the plates, steels and fibers, but nothing helped. So now I’m thinking it’s fuel related or mapping issue like it needs to be richer still. But then again if I do the same scenario but I put the bike in neutral then it will sit there and idle and won’t flame out while it’s already hot. Needing some advice or help. Thanks
  14. Remmy

    Oil change

    I was going to change the oil on my dirt bike and i was going to use Rotella T Triple protection but the only one I could find was Rotella t4 15-40w. I think its the same thing but I just wanted to make sure. Can anyone confirm this?
  15. Evan Dodd

    Voss Helmets

    I have a Voss helmet and really like it I was wondering if anyone else has experience with their products and what they think.
  16. Riley saunders

    Swaptronics 04-10 kx250f/ rmz250f

    Hi, I’m having spark issues on my kx250f. If anyone is willing to do swaptronics with me, please let me know. Not sure what the problem is, so I figured someone could help me out by doing this. Thanks
  17. So i bought a 1992 rm125 about 1 week ago and it ran fine! i got it home and rode it for about 3 days, then after i let it cool down for about 20 minuets it would not start! I checked for spark, and for some reason, there was no spark. I bought a new ngk plug, and still nothing! I went through all the usual stuff, and still nothing! I bought a new stater, put it on, and now it will bump start, but not start using the kick starter. ( the kick starter is 100% good ) I think it may be the ignition coil, but i am not 100% sure. Any ideas?
  18. Yamaha fan number 1

    yz 250 street legal,conversion

    Hi guys i have some questions and would appreciate any help you guys may have. I have a 1998 yz 250 ive had for a few years thats been in the famliy for awile. I am doing a ground up redo on it this winter. Im geting a used frame because the one i have dosent have a title so i figured wile im at it ill get a 1998/1997 wr 250 frame so i can make it street legal. I know the 98 wr 250 wasent introduced in the us but the 97 was and the yz 250 is the same bike from 96 to 98. So my question is are the wr 250s the same ? Could i find a 97 wr250 frame and swap everything from my 98 yz 250 to it ? I wont realy ride it on the street much considering its not the best bike for commuting (by far) lol, but i figure if im geting another frame with a title miswell be able to throw my street tires on it and rip some twistes with it if i want to. Thanks for any help.
  19. Hello guys,so i have Suzuki RMZ 250 2008 year,the problem start 2 weeks ago,when i start the its getting hot fast,can't idle,and backfires,so i clean the carb,adjust few air jet,and problem was gone,i went to ride and the bike suddenly stop running,nothing works,kicking,pulling,nothing cant start this bike,so i found the problem was that it can't make spark on spark plug,and the problem its in electrical system,so my question is: can i get another electrical system from bike that is same year and to put it on mine?
  20. GotJokz

    2008 RMZ 450 for $1700

    I plan on buying a 2008 RMZ450 in a couple days for 1700. It's got ProTaper bars, Renthal Sprockets, aftermarket rims, and an FMF exhaust. The owner is relatively new to dirtbikes and recently traded a street bike for this Suzuki. He isn't overly familiar with the bike, but it looks to be in clean condition with aftermarket plastics etc, as if the previous owner took care of it. It's had a recent oil change, but the only thing i'm a little worried about is that since the current owner is pretty new to dirtbiking, he doesn't know how many hours are on the current build. I'm just curious for some last minute opinions, so i'd like to hear your thoughts; is it a good deal, and pointers on things i should look for on it before i buy. P.S i'm about 80% sure that it isn't stolen, but will run a VIN check tomm
  21. Ghent's05KDX200

    Transmission Oil

    My manual says to run oil 10w-30 or 10w-40. What brand makes the best clutch oil for a two stroke? What oil do you guys and girls run in your Two stroke dirt bikes? any particular ones to stay away from? Also, semi synthetic, full synthetic, or non synthetic?
  22. Anthony Bryant

    Build from scratch RMZ450

    Hey so i have this idea of building an rmz450 from the chassis up. Does anyone have there take on this? I have time so thats not an issue. Im gonna start with an 08 frame then go from there.
  23. Hi all, Im a little bit smaller of a rider about 5`2 or 5`3 110 pounds. I feel ive outgrown my crf150rb and am looking to go to a a 250 next spring. Whats the slimmest/smallest 250f out there. Ive almost entirely ruled out a Yamaha because i went to a dealer to look at them and they feel and look so much bigger than all the other 250s. Kawasaki seems like its a smaller slimmer skinnier bike but the Suzuki doesn't look bad either. Ktms seem huge to me and really haven't looked at hondas yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  24. DAKOTA FRIAR

    Rmz 250 break in oil change

    Got my bike back from the shop a few months ago. I have ridden 3 seperate times for a few hours at a time. I have maybe 6 hours on it sense the new motor complete rebuild. Should I go ahead and change the oil and filter and screens? And how much noise should these motors make? I ride trails and if I'm at a certain rpm I feel like I can hear valve rattle or piston slap. I know I have some chain slap I just put a new chain on before it went in the shop and havent adjusted after the first 2 rides. It sounds completely different from the noise in hearing. Thanks guys.
  25. ace787

    2000 Honda XR400R

    Time Left: 19 days and 22 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • Used - Like New

    2000 Honda XR400R Titled/Licensed Fresh top end (bored) 10:1 cr. New Bearings/Seals in bottom end. Stage 1 Hot Cams. Pumper Carb. Uni Filter. Big Gun Rev Box. DG Exhaust. RSW upper triple clamp. Braided brake lines front/rear. IMS wide pegs. Baja Designs Dual Sport Kit, 200 watt upgraded stator. Cycra Handgaurds. Excellent Shape ! Great dual sport bike 2900$

    $2,900.00

    Kansas City

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